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A piece of curtain fabric showing its selvedge, i.e. the self-finished edge in the foreground

A selvage (US English) or selvedge (British English) is a "self-finished" edge of a piece of fabric which keeps it from unraveling and fraying.[1][2] The term "self-finished" means that the edge does not require additional finishing work, such as hem or bias tape, to prevent fraying.

In woven fabric, selvages are the edges that run parallel to the warp (the longitudinal threads that run the entire length of the fabric), and are created by the weft thread looping back at the end of each row. In knitted fabrics, selvages are the unfinished yet structurally sound edges that were neither cast on nor bound off.[3][4] Historically, the term selvage applied only to loom woven fabric, though now can be applied to flat-knitted fabric.

The terms selvage and selvedge are a corruption of "self-edge", and have been in use since the 16th century.[5]

In textiles

[edit]

Definition

[edit]
Black and red patterned wool shawl; the long edges are selvedges and the short edges are knotted fringe. c. 1820s. From the collection of Conner Prairie.

According to Hollen, Saddler & Langford, "A selvage is the self-edge of a fabric formed by the filling yarn when it turns to go back across the fabric."[citation needed] In traditional looms, the selvage on both sides of a piece of fabric were manufactured same, whereas in modern shuttleless looms these selvages are low[clarification needed] because of cutting filling yarn and selvages looks like fringes.[clarification needed]

Different types of selvages are as follows:

  • Plain selvages. These are like fabric, do not wrinkle and are used in sewing selvage in fabric construction.
  • Tape selvages. These are long and made by ply yarn for strength. These are broader than plain selvages and basket weave is used for flatness.
  • Split selvages. Narrow fabric like towel is woven from two or more sides together and then cutting is done. Later, these cut selvages are hemmed or chain stitched for finishing.
  • Fused selvages. These are fixed by temperature which is made of ribbons which are cut in narrow widths.
  • Leno selvages. These are used on some type of shuttleless looms. In this cut, selvages are locked and narrow Leno weaves are done. Loose selvages generally need tight leno weaves.
  • Tucked selvages. Like Leno selvages, these are done on a shuttleless loom. Machines are used to tuck the cut fabric and fix them.

In woven cloth

[edit]
Warp and weft in a plain tabby weave, showing how the reversals of the weft create the selvages on each side. See weaving for other weave pattens.

In textile terminology, threads that run the length of the fabric (longitudinally) are warp ends. Threads running laterally from edge to edge, that is from left side to right side of the fabric as it emerges from the loom, are weft picks. Selvages form the extreme lateral edges of the fabric and are formed during the weaving process. The weave used to construct the selvage may be the same or different from the weave of the body of the fabric cloth. Most selvages are narrow, but some may be as wide as 0.75 inches or 19 mm. Descriptions woven into the selvage using special jacquards, colored or fancy threads may be incorporated for identification purposes. For many end-uses the selvage is discarded. Selvages are 'finished' and will not fray because the weft threads double back on themselves and are looped under and over the warp.[2]

Handwoven selvages vs. industrial selvages

[edit]

There is a slight difference between the selvages in handweaving and in industry, because while industrial looms originally very closely mimicked handweaving looms, modern industrial looms are very different. A loom with a shuttle, such as most hand weaving looms, will produce a very different selvage from a loom without a shuttle, like some of the modern industrial looms. Also in industry sometimes the selvage is made thicker with a binding thread.

Selvages of fabrics formed on weaving machines with shuttles, such as hand looms, are formed by the weft turning at the end of each pick (pass of the weft thread) or every second pick. To prevent fraying, various selvage motions (or "styles") are used to bind the warp into the body of the cloth. Selvages are created to protect the fabric during weaving and subsequent processing (i.e. burnishing, dyeing and washing) but ideally should not detract from the finished cloth via ripples, contractions or waviness.[2]

In handweaving the selvage is generally the same thickness as the rest of the cloth, and the pattern may or may not continue all the way to the edge, thus the selvage may or may not be patterned. A plain weave selvage is the other option, where the last few threads on either side are woven in plain weave.

In industry the selvage may be thicker than the rest of the fabric, and is where the main weft threads are reinforced with a tight weft back binding to prevent fraying.[6] More simply, they "finish" the left and right-hand edges of fabric as it exits the loom, especially for the ubiquitous "criss-cross" simple or tabby weave, referred to in industry as taffeta weave.[7] Selvages on machine-woven fabric often have little holes along their length, through the thick part (see stenter pins), and can also have some fringe.[8] The type or motion of selvage depends on the weaving technique or loom used. A water-jet or air-jet loom creates a fringed selvage that is the same weight as the rest of the cloth, as by the weft thread is drawn via a jet nozzle, which sends the weft threads through the shed with a pulse of water. The selvage is then created by a heat cutter which trims the thread at both ends close to the edge of the cloth, and then it is beaten into place. Thus it creates a firm selvage with the same thickness as the rest of the cloth.[9]

Usability of the selvage

[edit]

In the decorative embellishment of garments, especially in decorative pleat or ruffles, a selvage used as a ruffle is "self-finished", that is, it does not require additional finishing work such as hem or bias tape to prevent fraying.[10]

Very often fabric near the selvage is unused and discarded, as it may have a different weave pattern, or may lack pile or prints that are present on the rest of the fabric, requiring that the selvage fabric be cut off or hidden in a hem. Since industrial loomed fabric often has selvages that are thicker than the rest of the fabric, the selvage reacts differently. It may shrink or "pucker" during laundering and cause the rest of the object made with it to pucker also.

Thicker selvages are also more difficult to sew through. Quilters especially tend to cut off the selvage right after washing the fabric and right before cutting it out and sewing it together.[1]

For garments, however, the selvage can be used as a structural component as there is no need to turn under that edge to prevent fraying if a selvage is used instead.[11] Using the selvage eliminates unnecessary work, thus the garment article can be made faster, the finished garment is less bulky and can be stitched entirely by machine.[12] This is of major benefit for the mass-produced ready-to-wear clothing of modern society. However, it is less used in homemade clothes because of the tendency of the selvage to pucker.

In knitted cloth

[edit]
Main article: Selvage (knitting)

Applying the term selvage to a hand-knitted object is still relatively new. Most books on fabric define a selvage as the edge of a woven cloth. However, the term is coming into usage for hand-knitted objects. The edges of machine-knitted fabric on the other hand are rarely if ever referred to as selvages.

Selvages in knitting can either bear a special pattern worked into the first and last stitches or simply be the edge of the fabric. The two most common selvage stitches are the chain-edge selvage and the slipped-garter edge, both of which produce a nice edge. The chain-edge selvage is made by alternating rows of slipping the first stitch knitwise and knitting the last stitch, with rows of slipping the first stitch purlwise and purling the last stitch.[3][13] The slipped garter edge is made by slipping the first stitch knitwise and knitting the last in every row.[3] Other selvages include a garter stitch border one stitch wide, or a combination of the above techniques.[13]

Knitting selvages makes the fabric easier to sew together than it would be otherwise. It also makes it easier to pick up stitches later,[3][13] and is a good basis for crocheting a further decorative edge.[13][14]

In printing and philately

[edit]
Part of a sheet of postage stamps from Australia showing selvage at the bottom

In the print industry, selvage is the excess area of a printed or perforated sheet of any material, such as the white border area of a sheet of stamps or the wide margins of an engraving etc.

References

[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Selvage

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
A selvage (also spelled selvedge; and , respectively) most commonly refers to the self-finished longitudinal edge of a woven or flat-knitted fabric, formed during production to prevent the threads or stitches from unraveling or fraying. The term is also used in other fields: in , it denotes a marginal zone of altered rock, such as along faults or veins; and in printing and , it describes the surplus margin around sheets of stamps or printed material. Details on these uses are covered in later sections. In textile production, the selvage runs parallel to the warp yarns (or wales in knits) and is typically narrower and denser than the main body of the fabric, often featuring a distinct weave, color, or printed information such as the manufacturer's name or design details. This edge serves practical purposes in and garment , including indicating the fabric's straight grain for accurate alignment and providing structural integrity during handling and cutting. The concept is particularly notable in denim manufacturing, where selvage denim—produced on traditional shuttle looms since the early —creates a tightly woven, non-fraying edge, often marked by a colored stripe, preserved in garments as a mark of . This technique experienced a resurgence starting in the , driven by Japanese and American traditions, with selvage edges valued for their durability, unique fading over time, and artisanal appeal in contemporary as of 2025.

General Overview

Definition

A selvage, also spelled selvedge, is the self-finished longitudinal edge of a , formed during to prevent the threads from unraveling or fraying. This edge ensures the structural integrity of the fabric against wear. The term originated in textiles but has been extended analogously to other fields. In , "selvage" is more common, while often uses "selvedge," though both spellings are accepted interchangeably in modern usage. In and , by the mid-19th century with the introduction of adhesive postage stamps, "selvage" referred to the unprinted margins or borders around sheets. In , it denotes altered marginal zones in rock formations, such as along veins or faults. These uses maintain the core idea of a distinct boundary but adapted to the respective material's properties.

Etymology

The term "selvage" originates from "selfegge" or "selvagge," first attested before 1475 in a context within The Boke of Curtasye, where it denoted the edge of woven cloth finished to prevent raveling. This compound derives from "," signifying an independent or self-finished , and "edge," referring to the border, possibly influenced by "selfegghe" or similar forms meaning "self-end." The etymology underscores the practical role of the selvage as a structurally integral boundary in fabric production, distinct from the main body of the weave. By the , "selvage" (or the variant "selvedge" in ) appeared routinely in manuals and trade descriptions, reflecting its established place in English terminology. The further entrenched the term in , as mechanized looms and standardized production processes emphasized consistent edge finishing in large-scale cloth output. The British spelling "selvedge" endured alongside the American "selvage," maintaining regional distinctions rooted in historical trade practices. Over time, the concept extended metaphorically to other domains. In and , the term described margins of printed sheets by the . In , it emerged in the early to denote altered marginal zones along faults or veins, such as reef-like selvages in rock formations.

Applications in Textiles

In Woven Fabrics

In woven fabrics, the selvage is formed during the process as the weft , carried continuously by the shuttle across the warp, loops back at each edge, binding the outer warp ends to create a dense, self-finishing parallel to the warp direction. This structure inherently prevents the fabric from fraying or unraveling along the edges, providing stability for handling and further processing. Handwoven selvages typically exhibit irregularity and a looser tension due to the manual operation of the loom, often requiring techniques such as floating selvedges or temples to maintain even edges. In contrast, industrial selvages produced on shuttle looms are uniform and tighter, achieved through precise mechanical controls that ensure consistent density and strength. These machine-made edges facilitate high-volume production while maintaining the self-finished quality. Selvages serve as non-fraying borders ideal for seams and assembly in garment , offering durability without additional finishing. However, their denser weave compared to the fabric body can lead to puckering or distortion if incorporated directly, so they are often trimmed during pattern layout to ensure a flat, even result. In premium or artisanal woven products, untrimmed selvages may be retained to highlight the fabric's structural and production method. Historically, the transition from shuttle looms to projectile looms in the mid-20th century marked a significant change in selvage characteristics; shuttle looms produce closed, self-sealed edges, while projectile looms create open edges that require separate finishing to prevent raveling, prioritizing speed over the inherent edge completion.

In Knitted Fabrics

In knitted fabrics, the selvage forms through the interlooping of at the edges, where the first and last stitches of each row create a continuous of loops that run parallel to the wale direction, differing from the self-finishing turn of weft yarns in woven structures. To prevent raveling or laddering, these edges are often stabilized using bind-off techniques at the cast-on and cast-off ends or by incorporating specialized edge stitches, such as slipped stitches or stitch borders, which tighten the structure and lock the loops against unraveling. Knitted selvages exhibit greater flexibility and elasticity compared to woven ones due to the inherent stretch of the loop-based construction, but they are particularly prone to from uneven tension between the face (knit-side) and back (purl-side) of the fabric. This is influenced by factors like loop , , and bending rigidity, with hand-knitted edges allowing for customizable stabilization through varied stitch patterns, while machine-knitted edges on flat-bed machines mirror this but often feature more uniform tension; in contrast, seamless tubular on circular machines produces fabrics without true selvages. These selvages enhance usability by providing along the edges, such as in scarves where they are retained for , though in garments they are typically hidden within seams or reinforced with additional binding to mitigate laddering risks during or production. The role of selvages in preventing yarn runs is especially critical in flat processes, where edge integrity helps maintain fabric wholeness. Since the mid-20th century, the evolution of machines—building on 19th-century patents for tubular production—has significantly reduced the reliance on traditional selvages by enabling seamless fabric formation, minimizing edge-related issues and waste in industrial manufacturing.

Cultural and Commercial Significance

The resurgence of selvage denim in during the represented a pivotal revival of shuttle-loom weaving techniques, emphasizing premium quality and fade resistance in production. In 1972, after eight development attempts, Kurabo Mills produced the KD-8 fabric, the first Japanese selvedge denim, which enabled domestic manufacturing of high-end previously reliant on American imports. This breakthrough fueled the growth of brands like Big John, which released Japan's inaugural selvedge using KD-8 that same year, igniting demand for artisanal alternatives to mass-produced . Commercially, selvage denim's authenticity drives premium pricing, often 2-3 times higher than standard varieties, due to its labor-intensive production and historical ties. Levi's 501 jeans, for instance, originally incorporated selvedge fabric from Amoskeag Manufacturing as early as 1873, establishing it as a benchmark for durable workwear that evolved into a luxury staple. Distinctive colored edges—typically red or branded yarns woven into the selvage—act as visual authenticity markers in raw denim, signaling shuttle-loom origins and preventing fraying while appealing to collectors. Culturally, selvage denim embodies artisanal craftsmanship and , with its self-finished edges minimizing waste compared to cut-and-sewn alternatives, aligning with eco-conscious trends. It has cultivated dedicated subcultures among denim enthusiasts, who prize personalized fades from unwashed raw fabric as symbols of individuality and heritage, influencing and high-end designers. Japanese brands like Momotaro, known for robust cotton blends, and Big John, pioneers in Okayama's denim hub, highlight this evolution from American roots—such as Levi's innovations—driving global premium market expansion to USD 9.80 billion in 2024, projected to reach USD 12.67 billion by 2030.

Uses in Printing and Philately

In Printing

In certain printing contexts, such as sheet-fed , the selvage refers to the unprinted or blank along the edges of a printed sheet, providing an excess area essential for mechanical handling and production efficiency. This margin, often seen in sheet-fed or , ensures that the can be securely gripped by the press without contact, avoiding smudges or of the printing mechanism. Additionally, it acts as a buffer to prevent from beyond the designated print area onto equipment or subsequent sheets. Practically, selvage widths typically range from about 1 cm (3/8 to 1/2 inch), offering adequate space for gripper mechanisms and alignment guides without encroaching on the live print area. Post-printing, these borders are generally trimmed away to deliver the finished product, though in fine art and limited-edition prints, broader selvages are deliberately retained to safeguard the image from handling damage, support matting and framing, and preserve long-term archival integrity. This retention enhances the print's aesthetic and collectible value by minimizing contact with the sensitive printed surface. Technically, in roll-fed and continuous-form , selvages often incorporate perforations along the edges to enable straightforward separation of the printed content from feed tracts or trim waste after processing. These perforations, created during or after , allow for clean detachment in applications like forms or labels, streamlining finishing operations while minimizing distortion. In philatelic , such selvages extend to the margins around stamp sheets, sometimes bearing identifiers like plate numbers.

In Philately

In philately, the selvage refers to the unprinted marginal paper surrounding a sheet or pane of postage stamps, which often bears imprints such as plate numbers, country names, or security features to aid in production tracking and authentication. These elements, printed in the selvage during the sheet's manufacture, help postal authorities identify the printing plate used and verify the stamp's origin, serving both and anti-counterfeiting purposes. The concept of selvage in stamp production dates back to the , with early examples appearing on sheets of the British , the world's first adhesive issued in 1840, where marginal blocks sometimes retained deckle-edged selvage indicating their position on the original sheet. In modern , selvages are particularly notable in souvenir sheets, which may feature imperforate selvages to preserve the sheet's integrity and enhance aesthetic appeal for collectors. For collectors, selvages hold significant value, especially when imperforate or bearing inscriptions, as they represent rarities that can substantially increase a stamp's worth; for instance, errors such as missing perforations along the selvage edge turn ordinary issues into premium items sought for trading and . During production, selvages are typically perforated for easy separation of individual stamps from the sheet, but intact selvages are occasionally preserved and sold as premium collectibles, such as plate blocks or corner margins, to cater to specialized philatelic interests.

Geological Context

Definition in Geology

In geology, a selvage refers to a narrow, altered zone in a rock mass that exhibits distinctive fabric or compositional features differing from the adjacent main body, typically resulting from chemical or physical alterations such as fluid interaction or mechanical stress. This transitional zone often appears as a fine-grained or clayey layer, marking the interface between the primary rock and surrounding materials. Selvages commonly form in contexts like fault gouge along shear zones, where intense frictional grinding produces a clay-like, incohesive material, or at the margins of igneous intrusions, such as dikes or lava flows, where rapid cooling against cooler host rock creates a chilled, sometimes glassy edge. Key characteristics include a typical thickness of 1-10 cm, with composition shifts from the host rock—such as transitions to mineralized clay or fine-grained and —highlighting processes like hydrothermal fluid alteration or tectonic stress concentration. The term "selvage" is often used synonymously with "selvedge" in geological literature, a nomenclature borrowed from the textile industry to describe these self-finishing edges in rock structures.

Formation and Examples

Geological selvages form through several distinct mechanisms, primarily involving interactions between fluids, heat, and mechanical forces in rock bodies. Hydrothermal alteration is a key process, where hot, mineral-rich fluids interact with surrounding host rocks, leading to mineral zoning and the development of altered margins or selvages. For instance, in vein systems, these fluids precipitate minerals like silica, creating silica-rich rims or halos around the vein, as observed in chemically and mineralogically altered host rocks adjacent to quartz-kyanite veins, where mass transfer between vein and wallrock produces distinct selvage zones. Mechanical grinding along fault planes generates gouge selvages, particularly in sedimentary rocks, through frictional wear that pulverizes and mixes rock material into a fine-grained, clay-rich layer. This process is evident in fault zones where grinding action along the fault plane forms fault gouge, often shoving material into adjacent strata. Additionally, rapid chilling of magma at dike contacts with cooler host rocks produces glassy selvages, where the outer margins quench quickly to form a thin, vitreous layer. Such selvages, typically 1–5 cm wide, occur along dike margins accompanied by vesicle layers, as seen in basaltic dikes of the Columbia River Basalt Group. Concrete examples illustrate these mechanisms across diverse geological settings. Obsidian selvages appear at volcanic margins, particularly along dike selvedges in rhyolitic terrains, where rapid cooling of silicic yields glassy borders readily obtainable from exposed contacts. In ore deposits, selvages exhibit colloform banding in veins, as in epithermal Cu-Pb-Zn systems where colloform forms along margins, indicating episodic fluid influx and mineral precipitation. Fault zone clay selvages in sedimentary rocks are common, such as leached selvages against carbon-rich layers in red-bed formations, where solutions attack iron oxides and create altered margins near faults and joints. These selvages serve as critical indicators in geological studies, revealing patterns of fluid flow, temperature gradients, and tectonic stress. In vein-selvage systems, mass imbalances between veins and wallrock highlight fluid advection through both, aiding reconstruction of paleofluid dynamics. In , they trace mineralization paths, as selvage compositions influence ore grade by delineating fluid migration routes in hydrothermal systems. 20th-century studies, such as those on quartz-kyanite veins, have documented how selvage formation via hydrothermal alteration affects metal distribution, providing insights into resource potential.

References

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