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Fortezza of Rethymno
Fortezza of Rethymno
Fortezza of Rethymno
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The Fortezza (Greek: Φορτέτζα, romanized: Fortétza; from Italian for 'fortress') is the citadel of the city of Rethymno in Crete, Greece. It was built by the Venetians in the 16th century, and was captured by the Ottomans in 1646. By the early 20th century, many houses were built within the citadel. These were demolished after World War II, leaving only a few historic buildings within the Fortezza. Today, the citadel is in good condition and is open to the public.

Key Information

History

[edit]

Background

[edit]

The Fortezza is built on a hill called Paleokastro (Παλαιόκαστρο, meaning 'Old Castle'), which was the site of ancient Rhithymna's acropolis.[1] Between the 10th and 13th centuries, the Byzantines established a fortified settlement to the east of the hill. It was called Castrum Rethemi, and it had square towers and two gates. The fortifications were repaired by Enrico Pescatore in the beginning of the 13th century. After Crete fell to the Republic of Venice, the settlement became known as the Castel Vecchio or Antico Castello, which both mean "old castle."[2]

Under Venetian rule, a small harbour was built in Rethymno, which became the third most important city on Crete after Heraklion and Chania. On 8 April 1540, a line of fortifications began to be built around the city. The walls were designed by the architect Michele Sanmicheli, and were completed in around 1570. These fortifications were not strong enough to withstand a large assault, and when Uluç Ali Reis attacked in 1571, the Ottomans captured and sacked the city.[2]

Construction and later Venetian rule

[edit]
Main gate of the Fortezza

Following the fall of Cyprus to the Ottomans in 1571, Crete became the largest remaining Venetian overseas possession. Since Rethymno had been sacked, it was decided that new fortifications needed to be built to protect the city and its harbour. The new fortress, which was built on the Paleokastro hill, was designed by the military engineer Sforza Pallavicini according to the Italian bastioned system.[2]

Construction began on 13 September 1573, and it was complete by 1580. The fortress was built under the master builder Giannis Skordilis, and a total of 107,142 Cretans and 40,205 animals took part in its construction.[2]

Although the original plan had been to demolish the old fortifications of Rethymno and move the inhabitants into the Fortezza, it was too small to house the entire city. The walls along the landward approach to the city were left intact, and the Fortezza became a citadel housing the Venetian administration of the city. It was only to be used by the inhabitants of the city in the case of an Ottoman invasion. Over the years, a number of modifications were made to the fortress. Nonetheless, it was never truly secure as it lacked a ditch and outworks, and the ramparts were rather low.[3]

Ottoman rule and recent history

[edit]
Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim, which was originally the Cathedral of St. Nicolas

On 29 September 1646, during the Fifth Ottoman–Venetian War, an Ottoman force besieged Rethymno, and the city's population took refuge in the Fortezza. Conditions within the citadel deteriorated, due to disease and a lack of food and ammunition. The Venetians surrendered under favourable terms on 13 November.[4]

The Ottomans did not make any major changes to the Fortezza, except the construction of a ravelin outside the main gate.[5] They also built some houses for the garrison and the city's administration, and they converted the cathedral into a mosque. The fort remained in use until the early 20th century.[2]

By the early 20th century, many residential buildings were located in the Fortezza. Following the end of World War II, the city began to expand and many of the inhabitants moved elsewhere in the city. Rethymno's landward fortifications and many houses within the Fortezza were demolished at this point, but the walls of the Fortezza were left intact. At one point, the local prison was housed within the Fortezza.[2]

Large-scale restoration work has been under way since the early 1990s. The Fortezza is managed by the Ministry of Culture and Sports, and it is open to the public.[5] The Ottoman ravelin now houses the Archaeological Museum of Rethymno.[6]

Layout

[edit]
St. Lucas Bastion

The Fortezza of Rethymno has an irregular plan, and its walls have a total length of 1,307 m (4,288 ft). The walls contain the following demi-bastions:[1]

  • St Nicolas Bastion – the demi-bastion at the east end of the fortress. It contains a Venetian-era building which was possibly originally a storehouse or laboratory.[7]
  • St Paul Bastion – the demi-bastion at the southeast end of the fortress. It is also known as Santa Maria Bastion.[8]
  • St Elias Bastion – the demi-bastion at the south end of the fortress. It contains the Erofyli open-air theatre, which was opened in 1993.[9]
  • St Lucas Bastion – the demi-bastion at the southwest end of the fortress.[10]
View of the walls near St. Nicolas Bastion

The fort's main gate is located on the east side, between St Nicolas and St Paul Bastions.[11] It is protected by an Ottoman-era ravelin, which now serves as the Archaeological Museum of Rethymno.[12] Two smaller gates are located in the west and north sides of the fortress.

A number of buildings are located within the Fortezza, including:

  • the Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim, which was formerly the Cathedral of St Nicolas.[13]
  • a building near the mosque, which was possibly the Bishop's residence.[14]
  • the House of the Rector, which was the residence of the governor of the province of Rethymno. Only its prisons have survived.[15]
  • the Council Building, which housed part of the Venetian administration of Rethymno.[16]
  • the churches of St Theodore and St Catherine, which were both built in the late 19th century.[17][18]

The fortress also contains an armoury,[19] two gunpowder magazines,[20] storage rooms[21] and several cisterns.[22]

[edit]

References

[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Fortezza of Rethymno

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from Grokipedia
The Fortezza of Rethymno is a Venetian fortress perched on Paleokastro Hill, approximately 15 meters above sea level, in the city of on the island of , , serving as one of the largest and most significant fortifications in the region. Constructed primarily between 1573 and 1580 to protect the city from Ottoman invasions and pirate raids after a devastating Turkish looting in 1571, its foundation stone was laid on September 13, 1573, by Venetian Rector Alvise Lando, involving the compulsory labor of 107,142 Cretans and 40,205 pack animals. The fortress features a system with thick, inclined curtain walls, pointed bastions, and defensive elements like battlements, powder magazines, water cisterns, and silos, designed in the style though incomplete due to terrain constraints and budget issues. Originally intended to house the entire population of within its walls as a refuge, the Fortezza ultimately functioned more as an administrative center, , and religious hub, with key structures including the eastern main , the Palazzo Pubblico (Rector's Quarters), the residence of the Councillors, and the Cathedral of Agios Nikolaos, which was later converted into a during the Ottoman period. Initial outer walls were added between 1540 and 1570 by architect Michele Sanmicheli, but the main citadel's plans were adapted from those of Sforza Pallavicini by Giannis Skordilis to suit the irregular hilltop morphology, resulting in a star-like layout that was never fully realized. Captured by Ottoman forces in 1646 after a prolonged during the Cretan War, the fortress saw additions like a pentagonal and further conversions of Christian buildings to Islamic uses, though it declined in importance thereafter. Today, the Fortezza stands as Rethymno's most iconic monument and a major , adjacent to which is the Rethymno Archaeological Museum (housed in the nearby Church of San Francesco as of 2025), displaying artifacts exclusively from local sites, while offering panoramic views of the Venetian harbor and old town from bastions like Agios Nikolaos. Despite noted defensive flaws such as the absence of a and low wall heights identified in 1602 inspections, its enduring architecture symbolizes Crete's Venetian heritage and turbulent history of conquests from Byzantine and Genoese influences to Ottoman rule.

History

Pre-Venetian Period

The hill of Paleokastro, upon which the Fortezza of Rethymno now stands, was the of of Rhithymna, a settlement with roots tracing back to the Minoan era. Archaeological evidence from the hill reveals traces of Minoan habitation, indicating early occupation during the , alongside subsequent Hellenistic and Roman phases that developed the site into a prominent on Crete's northern . Rhithymna flourished as a Hellenistic port , with artifacts such as inscribed slingshots attesting to its activity into the Roman period, when it remained an important urban center connected by major communication routes across the island. During the Second Byzantine Period (961–1204 CE), the Byzantines transformed the site into a fortified settlement known as Castrum Rethemi to defend against persistent raids following the island's reconquest from Muslim rule. This defensive complex, located east of the Paleokastro hill, featured square towers and two gates, enclosing buildings within a protective wall and establishing the area's role as a strategic stronghold. In the early , amid the Latin conquest of , the Genoese admiral Enrico Pescatore, who briefly controlled parts of the island from 1206 to 1212, repaired and reinforced the Byzantine fortifications at Castrum Rethemi as part of his efforts to secure his holdings against Venetian forces. Following Venice's acquisition of in 1204 and the expulsion of Pescatore by 1212, the Venetians renamed the site Castel Vecchio, marking its integration into Latin rule without immediate major reconstruction.

Venetian Era

The Venetian fortifications of Rethymno began with the initiation of outer city walls in 1540, designed by the Veronese architect Michele Sanmicheli as part of a broader defensive strategy across to counter escalating Ottoman threats following their conquests in the . These walls, constructed primarily from local , were completed just before 1570 and encircled the settlement on Paleokastro hill, where a pre-existing Byzantine fortress had stood since the 13th century. The devastating Ottoman raid on Rethymno in 1571, led by Uluç Ali Reis with a fleet of 40 galleys, razed much of the city and underscored the inadequacy of existing defenses, prompting the construction of a more robust citadel. On 13 September 1573, the foundation stone for the main Fortezza was laid by Venetian Rector Alvise Lando, with the project designed by military engineer Sforza Pallavicini employing the advanced Italian bastioned trace system—featuring angular bastions and thick, inclined curtain walls for improved artillery protection. Construction concluded by 1580, overseen by master builder Giannis Skordilis, who mobilized an extraordinary workforce of 107,142 Cretan laborers and 40,205 pack animals over seven years to haul materials and erect the structure using predominantly local limestone blocks. Intended as a fortified administrative center and refuge rather than a comprehensive residential enclave, the Fortezza housed key government buildings, the Venetian garrison, and select officials, but its limited space could not accommodate Rethymno's full of approximately 5,200 inhabitants recorded in the 1582 . This design prioritized strategic defense and governance continuity during sieges, allowing the city's residents to rebuild outside the walls while relying on for protection against further Ottoman incursions.

Ottoman Era

The Fortezza of Rethymno fell to Ottoman forces during the Cretan War (1645–1669) after a siege that began on 11 October 1646 and concluded with its surrender on 13 November 1646. The assault was led by Deli Hüseyin Pasha, commander of the Ottoman army in Crete, whose troops overwhelmed the Venetian defenses despite the fortress's robust structure built in the late 16th century. Following the conquest, the Ottomans adapted the Venetian-built fortifications for their own use, incorporating Islamic architectural elements while retaining much of the original layout. Key modifications included the addition of a at the main gate between 1700 and 1715 to bolster defenses against potential counterattacks. The former Venetian cathedral of San Nicolò was converted into the Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim in the mid-17th century, shortly after the capture, symbolizing the shift to Ottoman administration and religious dominance within . These changes reflected the Ottomans' strategy of reusing existing infrastructure to establish control over the strategic hilltop site. Under Ottoman rule from 1646 onward, the Fortezza continued to function as both a military outpost and a residential stronghold, with additional houses constructed primarily on its western side to accommodate soldiers and settlers. However, as Rethymno's economic and social center gradually shifted to the expanding lower town, the fortress's resident population experienced a slow decline over the 18th and 19th centuries. In later conflicts, such as the Cretan revolts of the 19th century, the structure played a limited defensive role, prompting occasional minor repairs to its walls and gates amid ongoing unrest, though neglect accelerated its overall deterioration by the early 1900s.

Modern Period

During , German forces occupied the Fortezza from 1941 to 1944, utilizing it as a military post and prison for fighters who were subsequently executed. The occupation resulted in minimal structural damage to the fortress, preserving its overall integrity despite the broader wartime disruptions on . In the post-war period, particularly after , extensive demolitions cleared many of the internal houses that had been built within the Fortezza during the early 20th century, shifting its function from a residential enclave to a dedicated heritage site. This transformation eliminated most remnants of Ottoman-era domestic architecture, allowing for greater emphasis on the Venetian fortifications. Restoration initiatives commenced on a large scale in the early 1990s, led by the Hellenic Ministry of Culture, with efforts centered on stabilizing the fortress walls and key buildings to prevent further deterioration. These projects marked a pivotal shift toward systematic conservation, incorporating modern techniques to safeguard the site's historical fabric. In , the Erofyli Open-Air was inaugurated within the St. Elias bastion, providing a venue for cultural performances and enhancing the fortress's role in contemporary Cretan life. The former Ottoman ravelin, which housed the from 1991 to 2015, is currently used for antiquities storage as of 2025. The museum operates temporarily in the Church of St. Francis, while plans for a new permanent facility are under development. That April, the fortress received an international preservation award from the for the Municipality of Rethymno's ongoing protection and enhancement initiatives. Today, the Fortezza remains under the oversight of the , with active conservation works continuing to address environmental and structural challenges as of late 2025.

Architecture

Overall Layout

The Fortezza of Rethymno occupies an irregular triangular plan atop the Paleokastro hill, adapting to the natural contours of the while enclosing the summit in a self-contained . Its perimeter walls extend for a total of 1,307 meters, forming a robust enclosure that integrates with the hill's slopes to maximize defensive advantages. Positioned at coordinates 35°22′19.2″N 24°28′15.6″E, the fortress rises approximately 15 meters above , commanding panoramic views over , its harbor, and the Cretan Sea, which enhanced its strategic oversight during the Venetian era. The internal divides the site into an upper zone dedicated to administrative functions and a lower zone allocated for residential and military use, with the sloped layout facilitating movement and defense. Intended to house the entire population of (approximately 5,200 people) as a refuge during sieges, though never fully realized due to incomplete construction, the citadel was never fully populated to this capacity, reflecting its role more as a refuge than a permanent settlement. This integration with the topography builds directly upon the ruins of the ancient of Rithymna, where the hill's natural elevation and inclines provided inherent fortifications, supplemented by the Venetian engineering to create an impregnable hilltop stronghold.

Fortifications and Defenses

The Fortezza of Rethymno features a robust perimeter enclosure built according to the Venetian bastion fortification system, designed to integrate defenses against 16th-century threats such as Ottoman sieges and pirate raids. The walls, constructed from local blocks, form an irregular pentagonal layout spanning 1,307 meters in total length, with straight curtain sections inclined outward to deflect incoming projectiles and facilitate enfilade fire from adjacent positions. These thick walls, reaching heights varying from 6 to 13 meters and 2 to 3 meters in thickness, were engineered under initial plans by Michele Sanmicheli in 1540, emphasizing a trace system optimized for emplacements rather than medieval crenellations. Four demi-bastions project from the enclosure to provide overlapping fields of fire and protect vulnerable angles: the St. Nicholas Bastion in the northeast, St. Paul (also known as Santa Maria) in the southeast, St. in the southwest, and St. Lucas in the northwest. These semi-circular projections, incomplete in form due to construction haste, allowed defenders to rake attackers with crossfire along the walls, a key evolution in military architecture adapted to Crete's . Access to the fortress was controlled through three gates, each strategically placed for defense and . The main eastern served as the primary entrance from the below, featuring an arched portal with a mechanism over a shallow and adorned with the Venetian of St. Mark emblem. Smaller posterns included the western for secondary access and the northern , positioned near storage facilities for discreet supply routes, both equipped with narrow passages to limit assault forces. Additional defensive elements enhanced the perimeter's resilience, including earthen ramparts atop the walls for patrol and positioning, though a full protective was absent, contributing to the fortress's relatively swift fall in 1646. Post-Venetian, the Ottomans added a pentagonal opposite the main eastern gate around 1700–1715, projecting forward to shield the entrance from direct assaults and later repurposed as a . This outwork, built within the , exemplified Ottoman adaptations to bolster the aging Venetian defenses without altering the core enclosure.

Major Structures

The Fortezza of Rethymno encompasses several key interior structures that served administrative, religious, military, and utilitarian purposes during its Venetian and Ottoman phases, many of which have been adapted for contemporary use. These buildings reflect the fortress's evolution as a self-contained , housing facilities, places of worship, and essential support infrastructure within its enclosed layout. Central to the site is the Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim, originally constructed in 1583 as the Venetian Cathedral of San Nicolò during the fortress's initial building phase. Following the Ottoman conquest in 1646, it was swiftly converted into a mosque dedicated to Sultan Ibrahim I, featuring a large square chamber topped by a hemispherical dome with 18 acoustic resonators and a prominent mihrab. The minaret, added during the Ottoman period, collapsed in the early 20th century and was subsequently demolished in 1930, leaving only its base visible on the northwestern side. Today, the structure functions as an open-air cultural venue, hosting exhibitions and events while preserving its layered architectural history. Administrative functions were centered in prominent buildings such as the House of the Rector, erected between 1575 and 1582 as the residence of the Venetian provincial governor, and later repurposed during Ottoman rule. This structure includes preserved cells that highlight its dual role in governance and incarceration, underscoring the fortress's role in maintaining order. Adjacent is the Council Building, known as the House of the Councillors, designed for official meetings and deliberations by local authorities during the Venetian era. These edifices, with their vaulted interiors and simple facades, exemplify the practical Renaissance-style adapted to Crete's defensive needs. Religious sites within the Fortezza include the Churches of St. Theodore Trichinas and St. Catherine, both constructed in the late under Ottoman administration to serve the Christian population. The Church of St. Theodore, a single-nave built in 1899 near the bastions of St. Nicholas and St. Paul, features modest Orthodox iconography and reflects post-conquest religious accommodations. Similarly, the Church of St. Catherine, a edifice with a added in 1985, stands as a testament to ongoing Christian presence amid Ottoman dominance. Nearby, a ruined complex south of the mosque is identified as the possible former Bishop's residence, or Episcopal Palace, likely the Latin bishop's quarters from the Venetian period, consisting of vaulted rooms that may have served ecclesiastical administrative roles. Military and utility structures supported the fortress's operational demands, including an armoury for storage, two gunpowder magazines dating to the 1580s, and various storage rooms for provisions. The gunpowder magazines, rectangular vaults with boat-shaped domes and ventilation hatches located between key bastions, were critical for safeguarding explosives during sieges. Multiple cisterns, integrated throughout the interior, collected rainwater to ensure a reliable for residents and , demonstrating the Venetians' emphasis on in fortified settlements. A notable modern addition is the Erofyli Theatre, an open-air venue constructed in the 1990s within the St. Elias bastion, with a of approximately 1,200. Opened in 1993, it hosts theatrical performances, concerts, and events as part of the Rethymno Renaissance Festival, blending the site's historical ambiance with contemporary cultural programming.

Significance and Current Status

Historical and Cultural Importance

The Fortezza of Rethymno stands as a prime example of Venetian bastioned fortifications in the Eastern Mediterranean, embodying the architectural innovations of the 16th century that influenced defensive strategies across the region during a period of intense rivalry with the Ottoman Empire. Constructed between 1573 and 1580 under the direction of engineers like Sforza Pallavicini, its pentagonal layout with thick, inclined curtain walls and projecting bastions was designed to deflect artillery fire and provide enfilading coverage, marking a shift from medieval to Renaissance military engineering adapted to Crete's strategic needs. This design not only fortified Rethymno as a key naval base between Heraklion and Chania but also contributed to Venice's broader defensive network in the Levant, exemplifying the "fronte bastionato" system that became a model for colonial outposts facing Ottoman expansion. In the context of the Cretan War (1645–1669), the Fortezza symbolized Venetian resilience as a major stronghold, where it withstood initial Ottoman assaults before succumbing after a siege lasting from 11 October to 13 November 1646, highlighting its role in the early phases of Crete's prolonged defense against invasion. Although it fell relatively quickly compared to Candia, the fortress's capture underscored the challenges of maintaining Venetian control amid Ottoman naval superiority, serving as a testament to the fierce local and colonial resistance that characterized the conflict. The cultural legacy of the Fortezza reflects Crete's layered heritage, blending Latin Venetian elements with pre-existing Byzantine traditions and subsequent Ottoman adaptations, such as the conversion of its into the Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim Han. During Venetian administration, the complex housed key governmental structures, including administrative offices and religious sites that preserved records and artworks emblematic of the , a period of artistic flourishing under Latin rule that fused Western and Eastern motifs. This multicultural imprint endures as a of Rethymno's identity, illustrating how colonial fortifications became repositories of diverse influences in the Mediterranean's contested spaces. As one of Crete's largest Venetian fortifications, spanning over 1 kilometer in perimeter, the Fortezza exemplifies 16th-century engineering prowess tailored to rugged terrain, with features like scarps, embrasures, and internal organization compensating for its incomplete design due to site limitations. Its construction responded directly to Ottoman threats following the 1571 raid by Ulu Ali Reis, underscoring Venice's efforts to secure its eastern maritime frontier through innovative, scalable defensive architecture that influenced subsequent fortifications in the region.

Preservation and Tourism

The Fortezza of Rethymno is in good overall condition, with its outer fortifications preserved intact and ongoing restoration efforts maintaining its structural integrity for public access. Large-scale restoration projects began in the early 1990s, transforming the site from a largely abandoned ruin into a well-maintained historical monument open to visitors. It is managed by Greece's Ministry of Culture and Sports, ensuring systematic conservation and protection. The Rethymno Archaeological Museum, previously housed in the Ottoman-era ravelin (a pentagonal bastion opposite the main gate), is currently in a temporary location at the Venetian church of Saint Francis in the old town, with plans for a new permanent facility within the ravelin advancing as of 2025, including ongoing studies and funding preparations highlighted in mid-year. Additionally, in April 2025, the Municipality of Rethymno received an international award from the UK-based Fortress Study Group for its dedicated efforts in safeguarding the site's heritage, recognizing collaborative work among local authorities, experts, and conservationists. As a key draw, the Fortezza offers daily access, with summer hours typically from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., and an entry fee of approximately €4–5 for adults, providing affordable exploration of its grounds. It hosts events, including concerts and theatrical performances in the open-air Erofili Theatre during the annual Festival, blending historical ambiance with contemporary entertainment. Visitors enjoy panoramic vistas of Rethymno's old town, Venetian harbor, and the Cretan Sea from the hilltop ramparts, enhancing its appeal as a scenic highlight. The site attracts substantial footfall, contributing significantly to the local economy through revenue that supports regional preservation and initiatives.

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