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Hallsands
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Hallsands is a village and beach in south Devon, England, in a precarious position between cliffs and the sea, between Beesands to the north and Start Point to the south.
History
[edit]The early history of Hallsands is unknown, but a chapel has existed there since at least 1506. The village was at a cave known as Poke Hole, and probably was not inhabited before 1600.[1] The village grew in size during the 18th and 19th centuries, and by 1891 it had 37 houses, a spring, a public house called the London Inn, and a population of 159. Most residents of Hallsands at that time depended on fishing for a living, particularly crab fishing on the nearby Skerries Bank.
The village grew along a rocky ledge in front of cliffs, with a sea wall, and sand and shingle banks adding some protection from the harsh weather and storms.[2] Immense numbers of pilchards were being caught.[2] The nearest school was 2 miles (3.2 km) from the village.[2]


Impact of dredging
[edit]In the 1890s, following a scheme proposed by Sir John Jackson, it was decided to expand the naval dockyard at Keyham, near Plymouth, and dredging began offshore from Hallsands to provide sand and gravel for its construction. Soon, up to 1,600 tons of material was being removed each day, and the level of the beach began to drop, much to the alarm of local residents.[3] The protests also included concerns that crab pots would be damaged and disturbance to the fish stocks.[4] The Board of Trade agreed to establish a local inquiry in response to protests from villagers, who feared that the dredging might destabilise the beach and thereby threaten the village. The inquiry found that the activity was not likely to pose a significant threat to the village, so dredging continued.[5] A payment of £125 per year to the fishers were given as compensation for the interference with fishing.[2]
By 1900, however, the level of the beach had started to fall; estimated between 7 and 12 feet (2.1 and 3.7 m).[4] In 1900's autumn storms, part of the sea wall was washed away. In November 1900, villagers petitioned their Member of Parliament complaining of damage to their houses, and in March 1901 Kingsbridge Rural District Council wrote to the Board of Trade complaining of damage to the road. In September 1901 a new Board of Trade inspector concluded that further severe storms could cause serious damage and recommended that dredging be stopped. On 8 January 1902 the dredging licence was revoked. During 1902 the level of the beach recovered, but 1902 winter brought more storms and damage.
The 1903 storms saw further damage to the London Inn, and other buildings.[2] A newer and stronger sea wall was constructed in 1906, to protect the remaining 25 cottages which housed 93 inhabitants.[2]
January 1917 storm
[edit]On Friday 26 January 1917 the fishermen, noting the weather and tide, hauled the boats high onto the village's street and battened them down, and children were moved to a nearby cottage.[2] A combination of easterly gales and exceptionally high tides breached Hallsands' defences.[6] Eyewitnesses indicated "the seas came tumbling in, shaking everything all to pieces. We became greatly alarmed", the gales increased, with walls coming down, and waves going over the house rafters.[4] It was reported the 'sea came down the chimney'.[7][2] By midnight, four houses were gone and none were intact; and in the morning, the beach strewn with house timbers and furniture.[2] The next high tide of Monday 28 January 1917 broke the sea walls and the village was effectively destroyed.[2]
By the end of that year only one house remained habitable,[6] the highest-located house of the Prettejohn family.[2] The resulting inquiry found dredging was at fault, but refused to release the report to the public at the time.[4] The villagers' fight for compensation took seven years; the £6,000 also felt to be inadequate.[4][2] A decision was made not to reconstruct the village where it stood.[2]
According to Pathe News newsreel footage from 1960, the last inhabitant of the village was Mrs Elizabeth Prettejohn (1884–1964).[8][2][7]
The village has been a case study for coastal erosion by dredging.[2]
Present day
[edit]
The site of the old village at South Hallsands is closed off to the public, although South Hams District Council has built a viewing platform, which is accessed from the track below Prospect House Apartments (formerly Trout's Hotel).[2] Two houses remained intact and were used as holiday homes.
In May 2012, the access road, viewing platform and the two houses were affected by a 200 tonne landslide, leading to the houses being evacuated and the affected area cordoned off which now prevents access to the platform.[9][7]
The beach at North Hallsands (also known as "Greenstraight") is the only one at Hallsands. The beach below the old village no longer exists, having been removed by the previous dredging and repeated storms. In 2016 the beach at North Hallsands was reported to have been washed away by storms, leaving only a peat underlay which contains the remnants of a petrified forest. However, this is part of a regular natural cycle which occurs every few years, as are the more frequent episodes where the shingle from North Hallsands is removed by the scouring action of the local sea currents, deposited at other parts of the bay and then eventually returned by the same process.
There are no plans to restore the sea defences at North Hallsands or protect the few houses at possible risk as South Hams Council has had a policy of no intervention since 2002.[10]
In literature, music, film and online art projects
[edit]In 1903, English writer John Masefield published "Ballads", a collection of poems including "Hall Sands". The introductory part of the poem alerted that "the land in which the village stands is beginning to slip and settle".
The 1964 film The System directed by Michael Winner, starring Oliver Reed and Jane Merrow filmed scenes with the two actors at the ruins.
In 1993, the poet William Oxley published 'The Hallsands Tragedy', a series of poems about Hallsands and its fate.
In 2002, dramatist Julian Garner wrote the play Silent Engine set in the ruins of Hallsands about a couple whose marriage is as wrecked as the village following the death of their young child. It was presented on a short tour and at the Edinburgh Festival by Pentabus Theatre Company performed by Cathy Owen and Robin Pirongs. A second production was staged at Cheltenham Playhouse by Ad Hoc Theatre Co in May 2010 performed by Rachel Prudden and Paul Scott.
In 2003 BBC Radio 4 first broadcast the play, Death Of A Village, by writer David Gooderson. The play addresses the events of 1917, emphasizing that the underlying cause was not that year's combination of severe storms in itself but the dredging of the beach for gravel by government contractors, which had been taking place for several decades despite many warnings of its dangers. The play was based on contemporary records and looks at the events leading up to the great storm, and the village's subsequent fight for compensation.
In 2006, the opera company 'Streetwise Opera' commissioned a new opera, Whirlwind, based on the story of Hallsands.[2] It was written by Will Todd and Ben Dunwell and premièred at The Sage Gateshead, on 24 October 2006.
On 15 November 2010, Damon Albarn revealed on BBC Radio 4's Today Programme that Hallsands is the beach which inspired him and Jamie Hewlett to produce the Gorillaz Plastic Beach LP.
In the 2016 Julien Temple-directed documentary on Keith Richards, Keith Richards - The Origin of the Species, Richards told how he used to holiday as a child with his family at Hallsands.[11]
In 2017, British prog-rock band 'Kaprekar's Constant' released a 14-minute epic in their album 'Fate outsmarts desire' about the Hallsands story. In the same year, artist Frances Gynn, musicians Lona Kozik, and Sam Richards collaborated on a web-project titled Hallsands arts.[12]
In 2019, Devon folk duo 'Harbottle & Jonas' released their latest album 'The Sea is My Brother', which has the track 'Hall Sands', which is about the events in 1917.
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- Notes
- ^ Sisters Against the Sea, Ruth and Frank Milton, ISBN 1-84114-435-5
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q BURNS, Roger. "The lost village of Hallsands". Maritime Archaeology Trust. Maritime Archaeology Trust. Retrieved 20 January 2025.
- ^ Pollard 2009, pp. 299–300
- ^ a b c d e "Inside Out. The village that collapsed into the sea". British Broadcasting Company. 4 November 2002. Retrieved 20 January 2025.
- ^ "geographyalltheway.com - Error Page". www.geographyalltheway.com.
- ^ a b "Hallsands". South Devon AONB. Archived from the original on 22 September 2015. Retrieved 18 August 2015.
- ^ a b c SMITH, Colleen (22 September 2021). "Ruined Hallsands village and the amazing life of the last woman standing". Devon Live. Retrieved 20 January 2025.
- ^ Pathé, British. "Derelict Village". www.britishpathe.com. Retrieved 9 April 2016.
- ^ "Landslip sparks fears Hallsands house could fall into sea". BBC News. Retrieved 9 April 2016.
- ^ Hesp. M. The beach that disappeared: Storm unearths ancient peat on Devon coastline. Western Morning News, 14 January 2016.
- ^ "BBC Two - Keith Richards - The Origin of the Species". BBC.
- ^ "Hallsands Arts". Hallsands Arts. Retrieved 3 August 2017.
- Bibliography
- Pollard, Justin (2009), Secret Britain: The Hidden Bits of Our History, John Murray, ISBN 9781848541986
External links
[edit]Hallsands
View on GrokipediaGeography and Environment
Location and Topography
Hallsands is situated in the South Hams district of Devon, England, on the south coast within Start Bay, a 12-kilometer embayment facing the English Channel.[5] The site lies between Beesands to the north and Start Point to the south, approximately 1 mile northwest of the latter, forming part of a cliffed shoreline characterized by steep slopes and rocky exposures.[6][2] The topography features a narrow, steep shingle beach that shelves rapidly into the sea, backed by cliffs rising from a discontinuous rock platform of Start Mica Schists at an elevation of about 7 meters above sea level.[1][7] This low-lying ridge historically acted as a natural buffer against wave energy, but the area's open exposure to prevailing southwesterly winds and gales from the Channel underscores its inherent susceptibility to coastal forces.[8][7]Geological Composition and Coastal Processes
The bedrock underlying Hallsands consists primarily of Devonian slates and shales, sedimentary rocks formed approximately 370-395 million years ago in a shallow marine environment, characterized by their fine-grained, layered structure and mechanical weakness that predisposes them to fracturing and landslipping under erosive forces.[9] These rocks form steep cliffs backing the shoreline, with an emerged wave-cut platform of mica-schist and quartz-schist providing a foundational ledge upon which the original settlement was established.[2] Overlying this bedrock is a shingle beach composed of pebbles and cobbles derived from regional cliff erosion and transported via longshore drift, which historically served as a dynamic protective barrier dissipating wave energy and preventing direct undercutting of the cliffs.[10] In the natural state, sediment transport reached an equilibrium through prevailing westerly and southwesterly waves and tidal currents, with shingle inputs balancing losses to maintain beach levels; the offshore Skerries Bank, a submerged shingle ridge, played a key role by refracting and diffracting approaching waves, thereby modulating energy distribution and reducing direct impact on the shoreline.[11][12] Prior to significant human intervention, this system exhibited long-term stability, as evidenced by the consistent positioning of structures on the wave-cut platform and the persistence of the protective beach width, corroborated by historical observations and the absence of major erosional events threatening the village through the 19th century.[13][14]Historical Background
Origins as a Fishing Community
Hallsands emerged as a modest coastal settlement in south Devon, England, with records indicating a chapel presence by at least 1506, though the village's formal development as a fishing community accelerated during the 18th and 19th centuries.[3] By the late 19th century, it supported a population of 159 residents across 37 houses, including a public house known as the London Inn and a freshwater spring, reflecting a compact, self-contained community centered on maritime livelihoods.[15] This growth underscored the village's viability as an inshore fishing hub, where households depended on sustainable, localized extraction rather than large-scale ventures.[16] The economy revolved around pot fishing for crabs and lobsters, utilizing small beach-launched boats measuring 12 to 15 feet, designed for deploying and retrieving baited pots in nearshore waters.[17] These vessels enabled direct access to the fisheries without extensive infrastructure, fostering self-sufficiency amid the rugged terrain that limited arable farming to minimal subsistence levels on the steep slopes and cliff-backed landscape.[2] Housing consisted of terraced structures perched on a narrow rock ledge, elevated 1 to 2 meters above the protective shingle beach, optimizing proximity to the sea for daily operations while shielding against minor tidal influences.[2] Census data from 1891 confirm a stable populace engaged in these traditional practices, with no indications of economic distress prior to external disruptions, highlighting the community's adaptation to its environmental constraints through generations of localized knowledge.[15] This pre-industrial equilibrium relied on the natural shingle barrier, which maintained shoreline integrity and supported consistent yields from the inshore grounds.[3]