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Kangol
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Kangol is a British clothing company famous for its headwear. The name Kangol reflects the original materials for production, the K coming from the word 'silK' (a recent attribution to 'Knitting' is incorrect), the ANG from 'ANGora', and the OL from 'woOL'. Although no Kangol hat has ever actually been manufactured in Australia, the Kangaroo logo was adopted by Kangol in 1983 because Americans commonly asked where they could get "the Kangaroo hat".[1]
Key Information
Early history
[edit]Founded in 1938 by a Polish Jew, Jacques Spreiregen, Kangol produced hats for workers, golfers, and especially soldiers. Spreiregen, born Jacob Henryk Spreiregen in Warsaw in 1893, emigrated with his family to Paris in 1906. He then moved to London in 1914, where he worked as an importer and seller of various products that included wool, woollen goods, and berets. He served in the British Army in World War I, joining the Labour Corps to drive ambulances, and obtained British nationality in 1920. In 1938 he was joined by his nephew Joseph Meisner to open and run the first Kangol factory at Cleator, Cumbria, England. A second factory was opened at nearby Frizington, and later, under the direction of Spreiregen's younger nephew Sylvain Meisner, a third factory, manufacturing motorcycle helmets and seat belts in Carlisle. Kangol was the major supplier of berets for the armed forces during World War II; the company also provided the berets for the British Olympic Team in 1948.
Recent history
[edit]Kangol has been owned by Frasers Group since 2006, when it acquired the brand from private-equity fund August Equity Trust. Licences to manufacture and sell Kangol apparel have been sold to many different companies, including D2 and Topshop. In 2002, the Kangol apparel brand was acquired by Kangol Clothing North America LLC, a subsidiary of Chesterfield Manufacturing Corp in Charlotte North Carolina. In 2003, Chesterfield was acquired by Tomasello Inc., which was wholly owned and led by David W. Tomasello. The global rights to Kangol hats have been held by American hatmakers Bollman Hat Company since 2002.[2]
It was announced in February 2009 that Bollman were reviewing their worldwide operations, putting 33 jobs and the future of the Kangol head office in Cleator in doubt.[3] On 6 April 2009, it was announced that the original factory would be converted to a warehouse with the loss of 25 jobs. No employees now remain employed at the company's original site as the outlet shop closed at the end of August 2009. The site in Frizington is now a housing estate, whilst the original Cleator site has been partly demolished to provide a Park & Ride facility for nearby Sellafield and to facilitate other potential redevelopment. However, hats will continue to be made at their sites in Eastern Europe and the United States.[4]
Pop fashion
[edit]In the 1960s, designers Mary Quant and Pierre Cardin worked with the company, whose products graced the heads of the rich and famous, including the Beatles and Arnold Palmer, and later Diana, Princess of Wales. The company also supplied uniformed organisations such as the Scout Association.[5]
In the 1980s Kangol berets entered a new phase of fashion history with their adoption by members of the hip-hop community, such as Grandmaster Flash, Run-DMC, LL Cool J, Slick Rick, Kangol Kid of UTFO, and The Notorious B.I.G.
The brand was popularised even more by the 1991 movie New Jack City. The release of more consciously stylish products in the 1990s such as the furgora (angora-wool mix) Spitfire, was helped by its presence upon the head of Samuel L. Jackson in 1997.[5] Kevin Eubanks, bandleader for The Tonight Show with Jay Leno, sported a Kangol beret on an almost nightly basis.
In 2009, Eminem wore the Cotton Twill Army Cap Kangol hat on his Beautiful video.[6] As of 2024, Eminem's main hat style has been Kangol's army caps.
In popular culture
[edit]
- The Kangol Bermuda Casual bucket hat served as the iconic signature headwear for rap artist/actor LL Cool J early in his music career.[7]
- Rap and hip-hop artists Slick Rick, Dana Dane, De La Soul and N.W.A have referenced Kangol in their lyrics.
- Wesley Snipes as Nino Brown and his gang, the Cash Money Brothers, wear hats by Kangol throughout the movie New Jack City.[8]
- Samuel L. Jackson is known for wearing Kangol hats. His character Ordell Robbie wore a Kangol back to front in the movie Jackie Brown.[8]
- The movie Straight Outta Compton features a scene where Ice Cube gets into a dispute with a New York rapper, eventually telling him "Wearing a Kangol don't make you LL Cool J!"
- Soul singer Gregory Porter wears a Kangol Summer Spitfire cap.[9]
References
[edit]- ^ "Kangol". Bollman Hat Company. Archived from the original on 3 February 2014. Retrieved 6 March 2019.
- ^ Butler, Sarah (5 December 2006). "Sports World owner sees right fit for Kangol hats". The Times. London, UK. Archived from the original on 12 June 2011. Retrieved 6 April 2009.
- ^ Legg, Matthew (9 February 2009). "Kangol jobs at risk as Cleator hat factory faces closure". News and Star. Carlisle, Cumbria, England. Retrieved 19 August 2015.
- ^ "Further blow to textile industry". BBC News. 6 April 2009. Retrieved 6 April 2009.
- ^ a b "A beret good show: 70 years of Kangol". The Scotsman. Edinburgh. 26 November 2008. Retrieved 19 August 2015.
- ^ EminemMusic (25 November 2009). "Eminem - Beautiful (Official Music Video)". YouTube. Archived from the original on 11 December 2021. Retrieved 6 January 2019.
- ^ Bobb, Brooke (16 December 2016). "LL Cool J, Missy Elliott, and More: The Kangol Hat's Greatest Hip-Hop Style Moments". Vogue. Retrieved 2 August 2023.
- ^ a b Starkey, Aron (21 December 2021). "How Samuel L. Jackson immortalised Kangol". Far Out. Retrieved 2 August 2023.
- ^ Lewis, Rebecca (29 April 2023). "This is why Gregory Porter is wearing the same hat every time you see him". Metro. Retrieved 2 August 2023.
External links
[edit]- Official website
- "Working for Kangol"—BBC Cumbria
- Cleator Flax Mill
- "Making a Beret for Bette Davis"—BBC Cumbria
Kangol
View on Grokipediafrom Grokipedia
Kangol is a British headwear brand specializing in berets, caps, and other hats, founded in 1938 by Jacques Spreiregen in Cleator, Cumbria, United Kingdom, with roots tracing back to a 1918 hat import business for Basque berets.[1] The brand's name is commonly attributed to "K" for knit, "ANG" for angora, and "OL" for wool, reflecting its initial focus on knitted woolen headwear.[1] During World War II, Kangol became renowned as a major supplier of berets to the British armed forces, including the iconic tam-o'-shanter style worn by General Bernard Montgomery.[1] In 1948, the company outfitted the British Olympic team with berets, further cementing its association with national pride and functionality.[1]
The brand expanded its product line in the post-war era, introducing the signature 504 cap in 1954—a fitted wool cap molded on block number 504 that remains a bestseller today.[2] By the 1960s, Kangol gained international visibility through endorsements from The Beatles, who sported its berets and caps during their rise to fame, blending British heritage with emerging pop culture.[1] In 1983, Kangol adopted its distinctive kangaroo logo, symbolizing a leap into modern fashion, and saw a pivotal endorsement from Princess Diana, who featured a Kangol beret in a Vogue photoshoot.[1]
Kangol's cultural impact surged in the 1980s and 1990s through its embrace by hip-hop artists, transforming the brand into a staple of urban streetwear.[3] Pioneering rappers such as LL Cool J, Run-D.M.C., Slick Rick, and Grandmaster Flash frequently wore Kangol's 504 caps and berets, elevating the headwear to symbols of style and authenticity in the genre.[3] This era marked Kangol's fusion of retro British elegance with American hip-hop energy, influencing fashion across generations and leading to collaborations with designers like Comme des Garçons and Hiroshi Fujiwara.[1] Today, Kangol continues to produce a diverse range of headwear, from classic wool pieces to contemporary collections, maintaining its legacy as a bridge between military precision, royal endorsement, and global pop culture.[1]
History
Founding and Early Development
Kangol was founded in 1938 by Jacques Spreiregen, a Polish-Jewish entrepreneur born in Warsaw in 1893, who had previously established a headwear import business in the UK following World War I.[1] Spreiregen, who had served in the British Army during the war, began importing traditional Basque berets from France in 1918, capitalizing on the growing demand for practical headwear in post-war Britain.[1] By the late 1930s, seeking to differentiate his offerings and control production, he shifted from importation to manufacturing his own hats.[4] The company was established in Cleator, Cumbria, England, where Spreiregen converted a former flax mill—originally built in 1800 and rebuilt in 1859—into a dedicated hat factory.[5] This setup allowed for local production of knitted berets, emphasizing efficiency and scalability in a rural industrial area with access to wool resources.[5] Initial operations focused on creating durable and affordable headwear suitable for everyday use, targeting workers, golfers, and those seeking leisure attire.[6] Kangol's core product line consisted of high-quality knitted wool berets, crafted primarily from angora goat wool blended with other wools to ensure warmth, flexibility, and longevity.[1] The brand name "KANGOL," coined in 1938 to stand out from competitors, is most commonly attributed to a combination of its key production elements: "K" for knitting, "ANG" for angora, and "OL" for wool.[1] This naming reflected the innovative yet straightforward approach to material-driven design that defined the brand's early identity.[4]World War II Era and Post-War Growth
During World War II, Kangol served as a primary supplier of berets to the British Army from 1939 to 1945, producing wool headwear for soldiers including the iconic beret worn by General Bernard Montgomery.[1][3] This wartime role involved annual output exceeding one million hats, which necessitated expansion of operations at the company's Cleator, Cumbria factory to meet military demands.[3][7] Following the war's end, Kangol transitioned to civilian markets around 1946 amid demobilization, redirecting its expertise in beret production toward leisure and sports headwear. The company outfitted the British Olympic Team with berets for the 1948 London Games opening ceremonies, marking an early step in broadening its appeal beyond military use.[1][8] In 1954, Kangol introduced the Carricap, a peaked beret variant made from wool, which became popular for casual and country leisure activities in the UK.[1] Through the 1950s and 1960s, Kangol expanded distribution across the UK and into Europe, focusing on wool and tweed styles suited to golf and countryside pursuits, with the brand gaining traction among sports enthusiasts.[9] In 1972, founder Jacques Spreiregen sold the company to American Safety Equipment Corporation for £3.2 million and retired.[10][11] By the 1970s, following this sale, production scaled significantly, reaching four million hats annually by 1975, while the Cleator facility employed up to 850 workers at its peak, providing vital economic stability to the local community amid post-industrial shifts in Cumbria.[10][12]Ownership Transitions
In 2002, Kangol was acquired by the private equity firm August Equity from Kleinwort Development Capital, which had financed a management buyout of the company in 1997.[13] This transaction marked a shift toward investment-driven growth, allowing the brand to restructure operations amid changing market dynamics.[14] Four years later, in 2006, Sports World International—later rebranded as Frasers Group—purchased Kangol from August Equity for approximately £12 million, integrating it into a broader portfolio of sportswear and lifestyle brands to enhance retail distribution across the UK and Europe.[15] The acquisition expanded Kangol's physical presence in high-street and sports retail outlets, leveraging Frasers Group's network to boost accessibility while preserving the brand's premium positioning.[16] To improve cost efficiency, Kangol increasingly relied on global licensing agreements for production, outsourcing manufacturing to facilities in Asia, particularly China, where lower labor costs enabled competitive pricing without compromising quality standards.[17] This strategic pivot culminated in the closure of the historic Cleator factory in Cumbria in 2009, resulting in the loss of 33 jobs as the site transitioned from production to a reduced distribution role focused on packaging imported goods.[18] These ownership changes reinforced Kangol's emphasis on heritage marketing, highlighting its British roots and cultural legacy in campaigns, while pursuing premium pricing to differentiate from mass-market competitors and sustain brand value during periods of operational restructuring.[1]Products and Brand Identity
Signature Headwear
Kangol's signature headwear centers on its innovative knitted caps and berets, which have defined the brand since its early years. The 504, introduced in 1954 and named after the wooden block used to shape it, emerged from a redesign of the traditional Basque beret by adding a stiffened peak, creating a seamless, ergonomic flat cap that became an enduring staple.[1][8] This style, often crafted from 100% wool felt, offers a low-profile, rounded brim for comfort and versatility across seasons.[19] Complementing the 504 are other iconic designs, including the Kangol Tropic line, which utilizes lightweight tropic yarn—a breathable, knitted polyester blend—for summer wear, providing airy ventilation while maintaining the brand's structured silhouette.[20][21] Bucket hats in wool and cotton blends further exemplify Kangol's range, featuring proprietary textures like Bermuda fabric for enhanced durability and a relaxed fit suitable for casual use. These pieces highlight the brand's focus on functional yet stylish headwear, rooted in British craftsmanship. Materials play a pivotal role in Kangol's headwear heritage, with merino wool serving as a primary choice for its softness, warmth, and natural elasticity, often blended in 100% sourced U.S. merino variants for sustainability.[22] Wool's inherent weather-resistant properties, including water repellency suited to damp British climates, ensure longevity without additional treatments in many designs.[9] The seamless knitted construction, a Kangol innovation, incorporates hand-knitted elements for flexibility and shape retention.[23] Design evolution reflects adapting to cultural shifts, progressing from flat caps and newsboy styles in the 1960s—favored by figures like the Beatles for their mod aesthetic—to fitted baseball caps in the 1980s, which incorporated adjustable straps for customizable sizing and appealed to emerging streetwear trends.[1][9] Quality markers, such as authenticity labels denoting British manufacturing, persisted until the early 2000s, underscoring the brand's commitment to premium, domestically produced goods during its peak heritage period.[1][24]Expansion into Apparel
Kangol began diversifying its product offerings beyond headwear in the early 2000s, following the 2002 acquisition of its apparel brand by Kangol Clothing North America LLC and through licensed products with companies such as D2 and Topshop. By the early 2000s, the company expanded with items including polo shirts, sweaters, and trousers designed for casual and sporty aesthetics. These items built on Kangol's established reputation in headwear, appealing to a broadening customer base seeking coordinated outfits.[25][26] In the 2000s, Kangol further developed its apparel portfolio with urban casual wear, such as track jackets and chinos, positioned for young professionals. This era marked a strategic shift toward versatile, lifestyle-oriented clothing that blended British heritage with everyday functionality, targeting markets in Europe and the United States. The collections emphasized comfortable fabrics and subtle branding, aligning with the brand's growing presence in sportswear and preppy styles.[27] During the 2000s, Kangol pursued limited-edition apparel collaborations with streetwear brands, focusing on retro British styling to revitalize its image. These partnerships produced capsule collections featuring updated classics like embroidered jackets and trousers, distributed through select retailers to capitalize on the brand's cultural cachet.[28] Kangol debuted its first dedicated apparel line in 2022, inspired by 1990s streetwear. As of 2025, Kangol's apparel range encompasses sustainable options in hoodies, sweatshirts, and outerwear, utilizing materials like organic cotton and recycled polyester for eco-conscious production. Items are sold via the official online store and major department stores, reflecting the brand's commitment to modern, accessible fashion.[29] Recent collaborations, such as with J.Lindeberg in 2025, integrate streetwear elements into performance-oriented pieces, including T-shirts and jackets.[30][31]Logo and Naming Origins
The name Kangol was coined in 1938 by founder Jacques Spreiregen to differentiate the brand in the competitive headwear market, drawing from the primary materials used in its early knit products: the "K" from "knitting," "ANG" from "angora," and "OL" from "wool."[1] This etymology underscored the brand's emphasis on high-quality, knitted fabrics sourced globally, blending British craftsmanship with versatile wool blends.[1] Although alternative theories suggest the "K" derives from "silk," the knitting-angora-wool origin remains the most widely accepted account of the name's invention.[9] In 1983, Kangol adopted its signature kangaroo logo—a stylized depiction of a jumping kangaroo—as a distinctive emblem for its products, marking a pivotal moment in the brand's visual identity.[1] The choice stemmed from frequent misconceptions among American consumers, who associated the brand name with Australia and inquired about "kangaroo hats" in stores, despite Kangol having no manufacturing ties to the country.[1] Rather than correcting the confusion, the company embraced it, selecting the kangaroo after testing other animal motifs like crocodiles and horses at its Cleator factory; the emblem symbolized energy and approachability, aligning with the brand's playful yet premium positioning.[32] The logo appeared on product tags and embroidered elements, initially in subtle monochrome formats to maintain elegance, evolving to more visible placements and vibrant color adaptations for broader apparel lines.[33] The kangaroo emblem's symbolic role reinforced Kangol's global appeal, evoking notions of agility and quality without direct Australian roots, while marketing highlighted the fusion of British heritage with international material influences.[34] Trademark protections for the logo have been actively enforced since its introduction, including legal actions against similar marks in the 2010s to safeguard its distinctiveness in digital and apparel contexts.[35] These efforts ensured the logo's versatility across evolving media, from print tags to online branding, preserving its role as a core identifier of the brand's innovative spirit.[36]Cultural Significance
Rise in Pop Fashion
In the 1970s, Kangol's flat caps gained traction among British youth subcultures, including mods and skinheads, who appreciated the brand's practical yet stylish headwear for its alignment with working-class aesthetics and casual rebellion. These groups adopted the caps as a staple accessory, blending traditional British heritage with emerging street styles. By the mid-1970s, imports began reaching the United States, where Kangol's designs transitioned into preppy and golf culture, appealing to affluent leisure enthusiasts seeking refined, sporty attire. The brand's wool and angora blends offered comfort for outdoor activities, positioning Kangol as a bridge between European craftsmanship and American casual elegance.[9][1] The 1980s marked Kangol's ascent into mainstream pop fashion, as its versatile berets and caps transcended subcultural boundaries to embody new wave and casual chic trends. High-profile endorsements, such as Princess Diana's appearance in a Graham Smith for Kangol hat featured in Vogue in 1983, elevated the brand's visibility among global celebrities and fashion elites, signaling its shift toward sophisticated, unisex appeal. This period saw Kangol's kangaroo logo—introduced in 1983—become an iconic symbol, recognized for its playful nod to quality and innovation, further solidifying the brand's place in contemporary wardrobes.[1] Retail expansion played a pivotal role in this rise, with Kangol establishing a stronger foothold in the U.S. market from 1979 onward through targeted distribution in department stores and specialty outlets. Partnerships and imports boosted accessibility, transforming Kangol from a niche import into a ubiquitous pop culture accessory by the mid-1980s. This strategic visibility helped propel annual sales growth, cementing Kangol's status as a versatile emblem of 1980s fashion fusion.[1][9]Influence in Hip-Hop Culture
Kangol's association with hip-hop culture emerged in the early 1980s within the Bronx's burgeoning scene, where DJs and MCs adopted its headwear for its sleek, affordable aesthetic that contrasted American streetwear with British sophistication. Pioneers like Grandmaster Flash paired Kangol flat caps with tracksuits, integrating the brand into the visual language of block parties and early rap performances, symbolizing a fusion of transatlantic style amid urban grit.[37][3] From 1983 through the 1990s, Kangol experienced a surge in visibility and demand as it appeared prominently in rap music videos, album covers, and live shows, with bucket hats becoming an essential accessory for artists such as Run-D.M.C., LL Cool J, and the Kangol Kid of UTFO. Endorsements from these figures, including LL Cool J's near-constant wear during performances, triggered a huge spike in U.S. sales, transforming the brand from a niche importer to a hip-hop staple.[38][37][3] The brand's headwear carried deep cultural symbolism in hip-hop, embodying aspiration and the blending of British heritage with American street energy, which influenced elements like graffiti murals and stylized music video aesthetics. This cross-Atlantic vibe represented upward mobility for inner-city youth, positioning Kangol as more than apparel but a marker of cultural innovation and cool.[39][3] By the 2000s, Kangol's influence extended globally as hip-hop proliferated, with its bucket hats adopted in European grime scenes and Asian trap movements, remixing the original style into localized expressions of urban identity.[37][40]Notable Figures and Endorsements
Kangol's visibility surged in the 1980s through endorsements by prominent hip-hop artists, with LL Cool J prominently featuring the brand's signature bucket hat on the cover of his 1985 debut album Radio, establishing it as a staple of early rap style.[41] Run-DMC further amplified Kangol's appeal during their mid-1980s performances and photoshoots, pairing the hats with Adidas tracksuits to define the era's streetwear aesthetic and bridge hip-hop with mainstream fashion.[40][42] In sports, actor Samuel L. Jackson launched a dedicated Kangol Golf collection in the 2010s, blending performance fabrics with the brand's heritage to target golf enthusiasts and elevate its presence in athletic apparel.[43] In the 2010s, Kangol forged official partnerships with hip-hop-adjacent streetwear labels, including a 2010 capsule with UNDFTD featuring the ECK-1 cap and a collaboration with rapper Nas and Applebum for limited-edition wool 504 hunting caps, reinforcing ties to urban music scenes.[44][45] By the 2020s, British grime artist Stormzy wore a Kangol cap during his 2022 O2 Arena performance, showcasing the brand's enduring relevance among contemporary musicians.[46]Recent Developments
Corporate Changes and Licensing
In February 2023, Bollman Hat Company acquired a 51% controlling stake in Kangol from Frasers Group for $21.4 million, securing full intellectual property rights and positioning the brand for a revival centered on U.S.-based manufacturing.[47][48] This transaction built on Bollman's long-standing role as the global licensee for Kangol headwear since 2001, transitioning the Pennsylvania-based company from production partner to majority owner while Frasers retained a 49% minority interest.[49] The acquisition emphasized revitalizing American craftsmanship, with Bollman committing to design and produce the full Kangol portfolio domestically to enhance quality control and reduce supply chain dependencies.[48] Kangol's licensing model has sustained global operations through strategic agreements with regional partners, particularly in Asia, where production occurs to manage costs amid fluctuating demand.[50] Official stores like kangol.asia handle distribution and sales in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia under authorized licenses, generating revenue from franchises while Bollman oversees core brand development from its U.S. facilities.[51] This approach allows cost-efficient manufacturing in low-wage regions for select lines, complemented by premium U.S. production for heritage items, ensuring the brand's British roots inform design aesthetics despite operational shifts.[47] Since the early 2010s, Kangol has pivoted toward e-commerce and direct-to-consumer channels to broaden accessibility, launching kangol.com as a central hub for global sales and leveraging digital platforms to reach urban and streetwear audiences.[1] This strategy has expanded the brand's footprint beyond traditional retail, with online revenue supporting innovation in product lines amid evolving consumer preferences. The 2009 closure of Kangol's historic Cleator factory in the UK, which once produced millions of hats annually and employed hundreds, significantly disrupted domestic operations and prompted a heavier reliance on international production.[52] Recovery efforts focused on premium licensing deals to stabilize finances, as seen in partnerships that diversified revenue streams and mitigated the economic fallout from site-specific losses. The 2017 reshoring of hat production to Bollman's U.S. facility in Adamstown encountered hurdles, including higher labor costs and slower output compared to Asian suppliers, but the 2023 ownership shift has bolstered long-term resilience through integrated IP control.[50][53] In 2025, Bollman continued to drive brand growth through new collaborations and product launches, including a limited-edition partnership with J.Lindeberg for golf-inspired streetwear headwear released in August 2025, and a limited-edition Furora headband launched on November 14, 2025. The Summer 2025 collection was also introduced in Middle East retail markets.[54][55][56]Factory Revamp and Sustainability Efforts
In March 2025, developer Cleator Mills Business Park submitted plans to Cumberland Council to revamp the historic former Kangol factory site in Cleator, Cumbria, which had stood vacant since its closure in 2009. The initiative focuses on refurbishing the 19th-century flax mill structure, now rebranded as The Flax Works, to preserve its industrial heritage while adapting it for contemporary commercial use, including offices and industrial space.[57] Sustainability is a core component of the redevelopment, with designs incorporating low-carbon heating and cooling systems, energy-efficient building reuse, and minimal new construction to reduce environmental impact. These measures support broader industry trends toward eco-friendly practices, though Kangol-specific initiatives under parent company Bollman Hat Company emphasize ethical material sourcing and reduced emissions in global production rather than site-specific wool recycling targets.[52][58] The project is projected to generate up to 400 jobs on the 2.6-hectare site, boosting local employment in west Cumbria and preserving ties to the site's historical role in Kangol's legacy.[52] Future plans for the brand include hybrid manufacturing approaches, integrating UK-based heritage elements with efficient global supply chains to balance craftsmanship and scalability, as production has shifted to facilities in the US and Eastern Europe since the factory's closure.[57]References
- https://www.wikicorporates.org/wiki/August_Equity_LLP