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L2O
L2O
L2O
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L2O was a Chicago seafood restaurant opened in 2008 by chef Laurent Gras and owned and operated by Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises. The name of the restaurant stands for Lake to Ocean. The restaurant was located at 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, Chicago, Illinois 60614.

Key Information

L2O and Alinea were the only restaurants in Chicago to receive three stars from the 2010 Michelin Guide.[1] L2O earned 1 Michelin star in the 2011 guide and two stars in the 2012 guide.[2] Matthew Kirkley became L2O's chef in November 2011. In 2012, the restaurant installed twin saltwater tanks that house live shellfish. The restaurant closed in December 2014.[3]

See also

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References

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L2O

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from Grokipedia
L2O was a in , , . Opened in 2008 by French chef Laurent Gras and owned by , it was located at 2300 N. West in the Lincoln Park neighborhood. The name L2O stood for "Lake to Ocean," reflecting its focus on freshwater and saltwater . Under Gras and later executive chef Matthew Kirkley (from 2011), L2O offered innovative tasting menus blending French and Japanese techniques. It received up to three stars in 2010 before closing on December 31, 2014.

History

Establishment and Opening

L2O was founded in 2008 by acclaimed French chef Laurent Gras in partnership with , a prominent Chicago-based restaurant group led by Richard Melman. The restaurant marked Gras's debut as a after years of experience at top establishments like Alain Ducasse's in and Fifth Floor in , where he honed his expertise in preparation. This collaboration represented an ambitious investment by Lettuce Entertain You, reportedly exceeding $5 million, to create a premier fine-dining venue in the city. The name "L2O" serves as a shorthand for "Lake to Ocean," symbolizing the restaurant's commitment to sourcing seafood from both the Great Lakes region and distant oceanic waters, ensuring a diverse array of fresh ingredients. Located at 2300 N. Lincoln Park West in Chicago's upscale neighborhood, the space occupied the former site of the renowned French restaurant Ambria, which had closed earlier that year, allowing L2O to repurpose the elegant, historic Belden-Stratford building. The venue featured a sophisticated design with multiple dining rooms, including intimate private spaces, and accommodated approximately 100 guests across its main areas, fostering an exclusive atmosphere. From its inception, L2O operated on a reservation-only basis, emphasizing its status as a destination for discerning diners seeking a multi-course tasting experience. The opening menu highlighted pristine, sustainably sourced , presented through modern French techniques infused with global influences, such as tableside preparations using gueridons for elements like smoked bouillon. Offerings included a 12-course priced at $165, focusing on raw preparations like cold-smoked kinmedai with buds, warm dishes such as lamb tartar with sweet shrimp, and mains like butter-poached in Tahitian sauce, all underscoring Gras's precision in flavor balance and ingredient quality.

Operational Changes and Closure

In November 2010, L2O underwent a key operational transition when executive chef Laurent Gras departed, with Francis Brennan taking over as executive chef. In November 2011, Matthew Kirkley, previously the chef de cuisine, was elevated to executive chef, replacing Brennan and aiming to refresh the restaurant's direction while maintaining its focus on innovative seafood cuisine. To support its emphasis on ultra-fresh ingredients, the installed twin saltwater tanks in , creating a controlled environment for housing live and ensuring optimal quality for dishes featuring species like oysters and lobsters. These custom-built systems, partitioned for separate water flows, represented an investment in that aligned with Kirkley's vision for sourcing and presentation. By 2014, persistent financial pressures led to the decision to close L2O, as the high-end model proved unsustainable despite its acclaim; founder stated that the restaurant "had never been a money maker" and emphasized the need for higher volume to achieve profitability in such operations. These challenges reflected broader difficulties in the sector, where elevated costs for premium ingredients, staffing, and maintenance strained margins in the post-2008 economic environment. The closure was announced in October 2014, with the final service held on December 31, 2014, marking the end of the restaurant's six-year run. Following the closure, the space at 2300 North Lincoln Park West was repurposed by Lettuce Entertain You for new dining concepts, including the launch of Intro in February 2015—a rotating chef platform designed for more accessible pricing and experimental formats. This reinvention allowed the venue to adapt to evolving market demands while retaining elements of culinary innovation.

Cuisine and Menu

Seafood Focus and Innovations

L2O's culinary philosophy centered on seafood, aiming to showcase the inherent flavors of fish and shellfish through a blend of French precision and Japanese minimalism, with an emphasis on freshness and simplicity. The restaurant's menus highlighted impeccably sourced ingredients, such as Kumamoto oysters, geoduck, langoustine, and tuna, often presented in uncomplicated preparations to let the quality shine. The menu structure revolved around multi-course tasting formats, typically 8 to 12 courses priced between $140 and $210, complemented by optional wine pairings curated by the ; initially launched without options to encourage the full progression of flavors. These seasonal tasting menus rotated based on ingredient availability, incorporating spring bounties like razor clams and reducing heavier elements such as during warmer months. Innovations at L2O included playful yet refined techniques, such as nurturing in on-site saltwater tanks for optimal freshness and employing whimsical presentations—like savory fillings in carved or spheres served on non-traditional "plates" inspired by items—to surprise diners without overpowering the . Examples featured uni in emulsions or paired with hamachi and , alongside modernist touches like osetra atop tartare encased in , emphasizing texture and visual artistry. Sourcing emphasized direct, high-quality partnerships with suppliers to ensure premium , including exotic items like Coromandel oysters and international , while prioritizing minimal intervention to preserve natural qualities.

Dining Experience

The dining experience at L2O was characterized by a sleek, modern interior that blended contemporary lines with elegant historical elements, creating an intimate atmosphere divided into distinct spaces accented by light and dark woods. Large windows offered views of , enhancing the serene and refined setting, while an open kitchen allowed guests to observe the precise preparation of dishes. The overall ambiance evoked a sense of exclusivity and tranquility, with spacious yet cozy seating arrangements that fostered a cruise-ship-like elegance suitable for immersive . Service at L2O emphasized personalization through multi-course tasting menus, typically progressing over 2 to 3 hours, with sommelier-led wine pairings that complemented the seafood-focused offerings. Staff provided warm, well-paced attention, including interactive elements like kitchen tours, ensuring a seamless and engaging progression from to dessert. This model highlighted a commitment to guest comfort and culinary storytelling, with servers deftly explaining each course's inspirations. The restaurant attracted a diverse clientele, primarily fine-dining enthusiasts, celebrities, and business travelers, alongside an unexpectedly younger demographic of foodies seeking high-end experiences. Special events included private dining options in dedicated spaces and occasional experiences for more intimate groups, allowing closer interaction with the culinary team. Accessibility features encompassed wheelchair access and at the West location, though the high price point—starting at around $150 per person for the , excluding wine—positioned it as a luxury outing.

Chefs and Staff

Laurent Gras Era

Laurent Gras, a born in in 1965, brought extensive Michelin-starred expertise to L2O after training at École Hôtelière in and working in prominent kitchens, including those of Maximin, , and in France, where he contributed to earning three Michelin stars at Ducasse's restaurant. In the United States, he served as executive chef at Peacock Alley in from 1998 to 2001 and at in from 2001 to 2004, honing a style that emphasized precision and seasonality before partnering with on L2O. Gras led L2O as executive chef and partner from its opening in May 2008 until November 2010, during which he established the restaurant's reputation as a premier destination for innovative cuisine in . Under his direction, L2O received magazine's Best New Restaurant award in 2008 and was nominated for a for Best New Restaurant in 2009, reflecting his ability to blend French technique with Japanese influences in preparations. His key contributions included developing the restaurant's inaugural multi-course , which prioritized rare and high-quality sourced globally, and designing an open kitchen layout to enhance production efficiency and diner visibility. This approach culminated in L2O earning three stars in the 2010 guide, the first for a restaurant and only the second three-star rating in the city at the time. In November 2010, just days after the Michelin announcement, Gras departed L2O to relocate to New York City and explore opportunities for a new, more casual restaurant concept, citing a desire to innovate beyond the high-end format he had mastered. Gras's tenure at L2O profoundly influenced Chicago's fine-dining landscape by elevating seafood as a sophisticated centerpiece, inspiring subsequent chefs to emphasize sustainability and global sourcing in the region. Following his departure, he founded LGRAS Consulting in 2012, providing expertise to restaurants worldwide, and later served as executive chef at Saison in San Francisco from 2018 to 2020, where the venue retained its three Michelin stars. His legacy includes pioneering digital engagement in fine dining through L2O's innovative blog, which shared behind-the-scenes insights and recipes. During Gras's era, the menu showcased seafood innovations like abalone with sea urchin and yuzu, setting a benchmark for tasting experiences at L2O.

Matthew Kirkley Era

Matthew Kirkley, an American chef born in , , developed an early affinity for seafood through crabbing excursions on the with his father. He enrolled at in 2001, beginning his professional career at in before relocating to in 2003. There, he held positions at Seasons in the Four Seasons Hotel and NoMI at the Park Hyatt, followed by stages at renowned European establishments including and in , and in in 2006. Kirkley then served as at in , contributing to its three stars, before returning to in 2008 to assist in the opening of L2O under executive chef Laurent Gras. After a stint as at Ría in the Elysian Hotel, he rejoined L2O as and was elevated to chef-partner in November 2011. During his tenure from November 2011 until the restaurant's closure on December 31, 2014, Kirkley maintained L2O's emphasis on while introducing refinements to the menu structure, offering either a seven-course or sixteen-course and eliminating the previous four-course prix fixe option. He shifted toward greater flexibility and , updating the menu approximately weekly—achieving around 37 iterations in his first year—and incorporated unique sourcing from , such as periwinkles and , alongside high-quality local produce to enhance flavor profiles and ingredient connections. This approach earned L2O two stars for three consecutive years, restoring its prestige after a temporary downgrade to one star in 2011 following Gras's departure. In 2012, the restaurant installed twin saltwater tanks to house live , supporting fresher presentations. Kirkley's style prioritized technical precision with approachable innovation, allowing for guest customizations like accommodating dietary preferences, which contrasted with the more rigid format under previous leadership. Kirkley faced challenges in stabilizing operations amid the 2011 Michelin demotion, which led to staffing reductions and business adjustments within the hotel's constraints, where fine-dining profitability proved difficult. Despite these hurdles, his sustained high , with peak nights serving 60 to 76 guests, and positioned L2O as a benchmark for excellence until its closure. The restaurant's end was part of a strategic reconcept by to a more affordable format, reflecting broader market shifts toward accessible dining. Following L2O's closure, Kirkley became executive chef at Intro, the successor concept in the same space and another Lettuce Entertain You property, where he continued until departing the group in fall 2015 to pursue fine-dining opportunities abroad.

Awards and Recognition

Michelin Guide Ratings

In the inaugural 2011 Michelin Guide to , announced in November 2010, L2O was awarded three stars, recognizing its exceptional as worth a special journey. This accolade highlighted the restaurant's excellence in key areas, including the quality of ingredients, mastery of cooking techniques, harmony of flavors, the personality of the chef reflected in the dishes, and overall value for money, all evaluated through anonymous inspector visits emphasizing consistency across multiple experiences. Service and ambiance also contributed to the high rating, complementing the seafood-focused innovations under chef Laurent Gras. L2O was one of only two Chicago restaurants to achieve three stars in that initial guide, alongside Alinea, underscoring its rapid rise in a competitive fine-dining landscape where just 23 establishments received stars out of hundreds inspected. Following Gras's departure shortly after the award, L2O was downgraded to one star in the 2012 , announced in November 2011, due to significant changes in the kitchen that affected consistency and overall performance. Under new executive chef Matthew Kirkley, the restaurant regained two stars in the 2013 , announced in November 2012, with inspectors praising its restored consistency, refined ingredient sourcing—particularly for —and improved flavor harmony across tasting menus that balanced innovation with value. This progression reflected the impact of the chef transition while demonstrating L2O's adaptability in Chicago's demanding culinary scene.

Other Accolades

L2O garnered significant recognition from national publications shortly after its 2008 debut, with Esquire magazine naming it Restaurant of the Year and one of the best new restaurants in the United States. The outlet praised its innovative seafood-focused tasting menus and sleek design as setting a new standard for fine dining in Chicago. In 2009, L2O earned a for the Foundation's Best New Restaurant award, underscoring its rapid ascent in the culinary world under Laurent Gras. Local media echoed this acclaim, with Newcity selecting it as the best new restaurant of 2008 for its precise execution of French-Japanese fusion techniques. The restaurant received prominent coverage in , which profiled its bold approach to and compared it favorably to leading establishments. critics also lauded L2O as a standout among the city's 2008 openings, noting its potential to rival established icons. Following its 2014 closure, L2O's influence endured in discussions of Chicago's evolution, appearing in accounts of the city's Michelin-era boom and innovative seafood venues.

Location and Facilities

Site and Design

L2O was situated at 2300 N. Lincoln Park West in Chicago's upscale neighborhood, a vibrant area known for its proximity to and the lakefront. The restaurant occupied space within the historic Belden-Stratford Hotel, a landmark building that functioned as a combining residential, , and commercial elements; L2O specifically utilized the ground and levels, transforming a former classic French dining venue into a modern seafood-focused establishment. Designed by Chicago-based firm Dirk Denison Architects in collaboration with restaurateur Richard Melman and chef Laurent Gras, the interior adopted a minimalist aesthetic with clean, contemporary lines that honored the building's historical elegance while emphasizing serenity and natural light. Key elements included a subdued color palette, zen-like wood paneling in yellow cedar, modern chandeliers, niches of and backlit glass, and curated artwork, creating an intimate yet spacious atmosphere evocative of water's tranquility to complement the seafood theme. The layout centered on a main dining room configured as a single generous volume for optimal flow, with an overall capacity of around 100 seats including a bar area; it also incorporated private Tatami-style dining niches and rooms accessible from the main space, designed for intimate gatherings of small groups (up to 8 guests per room). Accessibility was facilitated by street-level entry with ramps at the Belden-Stratford Hotel, and the location's closeness to public transit options, including CTA buses and the nearby Red Line station, made it convenient for diners.

Unique Features

In 2012, L2O installed twin saltwater tanks with a combined capacity of 200 gallons, designed to house live shellfish including blue lobsters from and from , thereby maintaining optimal freshness by replicating specific ocean environments such as the British Channel and Pacific conditions. These systems, developed in collaboration with aquarium specialists, minimized stress on the seafood and supported the restaurant's emphasis on high-quality, live ingredients for dishes like . The restaurant's open kitchen layout distinguished it through transparency, featuring eight visible chef stations—including , grill, sauté, and fish breakdown—that allowed diners to observe the preparation process and the precision of techniques blending French and Japanese influences. This design, devoid of traditional barriers like a central pass, fostered an interactive dining atmosphere while streamlining for the staff. L2O's wine program was widely acclaimed for its depth and curation, earning praise as unparalleled among Chicago's fine-dining establishments and enhancing pairings with the seafood-focused menu.

References

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  2. https://www.facebook.com/RestaurantL2O/
  3. https://chicago.eater.com/2014/10/29/7090913/leye-closing-l20-on-new-years-eve
  4. https://www.lettuce.com/about-us/
  5. https://www.chicagomag.com/chicago-magazine/march-2011/review-l2o-in-lincoln-park/
  6. https://www.beldenstratford.com/history
  7. https://www.timeout.com/chicago/restaurants/l2o
  8. https://forums.egullet.org/topic/115631-chi-l2o-laurent-gras/
  9. https://www.chicagotribune.com/2008/05/28/coup-de-gras/
  10. https://chicago.eater.com/2011/11/10/6637671/matthew-kirkley-promoted-to-exec-chef-at-l20
  11. https://www.grubstreet.com/2012/12/l2o-matt-kirkley-interview.html
  12. https://chicago.eater.com/2015/6/26/8851645/matthew-kirkley-leaving-leye-new-fine-dining
  13. https://www.grubstreet.com/2012/08/matthew-kirkley-l2o-fish-tank.html
  14. https://www.huffpost.com/entry/matthew-kirkley-ocean-landlocked-city_n_1702257
  15. https://www.nrn.com/restaurant-finance/many-restaurants-failed-in-08-as-economy-worsened
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  17. https://chicago.eater.com/2014/12/15/7393727/intro-leye-l20
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  19. https://www.chicagotribune.com/2013/03/27/phil-vettel-four-stars-for-l2o/
  20. https://chicago.eater.com/2013/3/29/6459009/sula-pans-siena-l2o-shows-playful-side-more
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  24. https://www.linkedin.com/in/laurent-gras-8a2b8421
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  33. https://foodfuture.co/community/chef-laurent-gras
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  43. https://www.chicagomag.com/city-life/november-2010/23-chicago-restaurants-get-their-michelin-stars/
  44. https://www.wbez.org/culture/2011/11/15/michelin-updates-chicago-guide-for-2012
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  52. https://understandinghospitality.com/a-history-of-chicago-fine-dining-ethnic-identity-and-the-persistence-of-prairie-cuisine/
  53. http://www.world-architects.com/de/dirk-denison-architects-chicago/project/l2o-restaurant
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  55. https://gourmettraveller.wordpress.com/2009/09/06/l20-chicago/
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  57. https://www.grubstreet.com/2012/04/matthew-kirkley-l2o-fish-tank.html
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