Maghera
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Key Information
Maghera (/ˌmæhəˈrɑː, ˌmækəˈrɑː/ MA-hə-RAH, MAK-ə-RAH; from Irish Machaire Rátha, meaning 'plain of the ringfort') is a small town at the foot of the Glenshane Pass in Northern Ireland. Its population was 4,235 in the 2021 census.[2] Formerly in the barony of Loughinsholin within the historic County Londonderry, it is today in the local-government district of Mid-Ulster.
History
[edit]One mile north of the town is a single-chamber megalithic tomb known as Tirnony dolmen. The portals surrounding the tomb are five feet tall.[3] The town dates back at least to the 6th century to the church founded by Saint Lurach. Standing upon the site of the church, the present day ruins of St. Lurach's Church date back to the 10th century (see Maghera Old Church). They include, over a doorway, a relief of the crucifixion, possibly the oldest in Ireland.[4] The crucifixion lintel is reproduced in the contemporary Catholic church, St Mary's.
The old church and town were burned in the 12th century. Afterwards, Maghera became the seat of the Bishop of Derry with a cathedral church.[5] In 1246 its bishop, Germanus O'Carolan (Gilla in Choimded Ó Cerbailláin), pleading the remoteness of Maghera, obtained sanction from Pope Innocent IV to have the see transferred to Derry.[6]
As a result of the Plantation of Ulster and of the Rebellion of 1641 which drove out many of the first English families, Maghera and district attracted Scottish settlers. They came into conflict not only with the dispossessed Irish, but as tenants and as Presbyterians also with the land-owning, Church of Ireland, Ascendancy. A result was large-scale emigration to the American colonies (Charles Thomson, recording himself as from Maghera, signed the Declaration of Independence)[7] and, in the 1790s, the organising of the United Irishmen.
Despairing of reform, and determined to make common cause with their Catholic neighbours, on 7 June 1798 the United Irishmen mustered upwards of 5,000 men in Maghera. But the poorly armed host broke up the following morning on news of the rebel defeat at Antrim and the approach of government troops. A Presbyterian church elder, Watty Graham, was executed for his part, and his head was paraded through the town. His minister, John Glendy, was forced into American exile.[8][9]
On 12 July 1830, Orange Order and Ribbonmen clashed over demonstrations the Orange Order held in Maghera and Castledawson. Several Catholic homes were burnt by Protestants in the aftermath.[10] Some repair of sectarian relations was achieved by an active tenant right movement, but with tenant purchase of land facilitated by the Land Acts by the end of the century the national question prevailed. Politically the town has remained split between nationalists, now in the majority, and unionists.
The Great Famine of the 1840s and the years that followed, resulted in a since unrecovered loss of population in the surrounding rural districts. In 2003 the Ancient Order of Hibernians erected a headstone to make the "Famine Plot" were local victims were buried.[11]
In the early 20th century, the town itself was relatively prosperous. With its own railway station, an embroidery factory, a busy weekly market and close proximity to Clark's linen mill in Upperlands, it was one of two major towns within Magherafelt Rural District. The town also benefited from post-war advances in education, housing and transport. Separate primary and secondary schools were built for Catholics and Protestants in the 1960s; new housing estates were constructed and motor cars forced a widening of many of the town's narrow streets[12]
Maghera suffered violence during the Troubles. Over the three decades from the end of the 1960s a total of 14 people were killed in or near the village Maghera, half of them members of the security forces and a further two as a result of family membership of the Ulster Defence Regiment. The Provisional Irish Republican Army were responsible for ten of the deaths. Two, including a Sinn Féin councillor, were killed by loyalist paramilitaries.[13]
From what was possibly a low of 879 in 1910[14] Maghera population has risen in the course of a century to a census figure in 2011 of 4,220. Reflecting European Union employment in local food processing, 213 residents in 2011 did not have English as a first language.[15]
Governance
[edit]The village was administered by Londonderry County Council from 1899 until the abolition of county councils in Northern Ireland in 1973.[16] Since 2011, the town is part of the Mid-Ulster District Council. It is located within the Carntogher district electoral area (DLE) which contains the areas Lower Glenshane, Swatragh, Tamlaght O'Crilly, Valley and Maghera.[17] In the 2015 district elections, Carntogher DLE elected three Sinn Féin, one SDLP and one DUP representatives to the council.
Churches
[edit]- Old St Lurach's Church, a church dating to the 10th century which has one of the oldest depictions of the crucifixion in Ireland.[18]
- St Lurach's Church, which is the site of the local Church of Ireland congregation.
- St Mary's Catholic Church one of two catholic churches in the town.
- Maghera Presbyterian Church, which is a reformed church. The current building dates from at least 1843
- St Patrick's Church, Glen. The older Catholic Church on the outskirts of the town.
- Maghera Elim Church


Demographics
[edit]2021 Census
[edit]On Census Day (21 March 2021) the usually resident population of Maghera (Mid Ulster Lgd) Settlement was 4,235.[2] Of these:
- 22.57% were aged under 16, 61.94% were aged between 16 and 65, and 15.49% were aged 66 and over.[19]
- 51.17% of the usually resident population were female, and 48.83% were male.[20]
- 78.04% belong to or were brought up in the Catholic religion, 18.14% belong to or were brought up in a 'Protestant and Other Christian (including Christian related)' religion, 0.16% belong to or were brought up in an 'other' religion, and 3.66% did not belong to or weren't brought up with any religion.[21]
- 19.24% indicated that they had a British national identity,[22] 55.84% had an Irish national identity[23] and 24.16% had a Northern Irish national identity.[24] Respondents could select more than one nationality.
- 24.27% had some knowledge of Irish.[25]
- 6.49% had some knowledge of Ulster-Scots.[26]
2011 Census
[edit]On Census Day (27 March 2011) the usually resident population of Maghera (Magherafelt Lgd) Settlement was 4,220 accounting for 0.23% of the NI total.[27][28] increasing from 3,711 in the 2001 Census.[29]
- 99.55% were from the white (including Irish Traveller) ethnic group.
- 74.86% belong to or were brought up in the Catholic religion and 22.61% belong to or were brought up in a 'Protestant and Other Christian (including Christian related)' religion.
- 22.56% indicated that they had a British national identity, 48.82% had an Irish national identity and 27.44% had a Northern Irish national identity.
- 21.23% had some knowledge of Irish
- 6.46% had some knowledge of Ulster-Scots
- 5.06% did not have English as their first language.
Transport
[edit]The Northern Counties Committee's Derry Central Railway had a station in Maghera. Maghera railway station opened on 18 December 1880, shut for passenger traffic on 28 August 1950 and shut altogether on 1 October 1959 when the Ulster Transport Authority closed the Derry Central.[30] The station building is now part of the Mid Ulster Garden Centre.

Ulsterbus runs routes through Maghera, which includes the 116/a/b/d to Kilrea, Coleraine and Magherafelt, 212 from Belfast to Derry, 246 to Limavady and Eglinton and 278 from Monaghan to Portrush.
Notable people
[edit]1700s
[edit]- Charles Thomson (1729–1824), signatory to the U.S. Declaration of Independence, secretary of the Continental Congress.
- John Glendy (1755–1832), republican Presbyterian minister, in American exile twice elected to chaplaincies in the U.S. Congress
- Adam Clarke (1762–1832), Methodist theologian and bible scholar.
- Watty Graham (1768–1798), United Irishman, Colonel of the Maghera National Guard, executed in 1798.
- Henry Cooke (1788–1868), Presbyterian theologian and Moderator.
1800s
[edit]- James Johnston Clark (1809–1891), Unionist MP for County Londonderry, born at Largantogher House.
- Robert Hawthorne (1822–1879), Victoria Cross, assault on Delhi, Indian Rebellion of 1857
- William Shiels (1848–1904), Australian colonial politician and 16th Premier of Victoria.
- James Lenox-Conyngham Chichester-Clark (1884–1933), Unionist MP for South Londonderry in the House of Commons of Northern Ireland.
- Helena Concannon (1878–1952) Irish historian, writer, language scholar and Senator.
- Louis Joseph Walsh (1880–1942) solicitor, playwright, Sinn Féin politician.
1900s
[edit]- Eve Bunting (1928–2023 ), American-based children's author and novelist.
- Erwin Gabathuler OBE FRS (1933–2016) particle physicist.
- John Kelly (1936–2007), founder member and a leader of the Provisional Irish Republican Army.
- Mickey Moran (1951– ) Gaelic footballer and manager-coach,
- Kenny Shiels (1956– ), footballer, Northern Ireland team manager.
Schools
[edit]There are three primary schools and one secondary school in Maghera.
Primary schools
[edit]- St Mary's Primary School, Glenview
- Maghera Controlled Primary School
- St Patrick's Primary School, Glen
Secondary school
[edit]- St. Patrick's College, a co-educational college.
Sport
[edit]- The local Gaelic football club is Watty Graham's Gaelic Athletic Club (Glen) who won the 2023–24 All-Ireland Senior Club Football Championship.
References
[edit]- ^ The Online Scots Dictionary Archived 3 March 2013 at the Wayback Machine Retrieved 20 August 2012.
- ^ a b "Settlement 2015". NISRA. Retrieved 18 August 2023.
- ^ Meehan, Cary (2004). Sacred Ireland. Somerset: Gothic Image Publications. p. 171. ISBN 0 906362 43 1.
- ^ "St. Lurach's Church – Mid Ulster District Council". Mid Ulster Council. Retrieved 20 October 2021.
- ^ "Home – Maghera Historical Society". Retrieved 20 October 2021.
- ^ "Diocese of Derry, Northern Ireland". GCatholic. Retrieved 20 October 2021.
- ^ Macafee, William (2009). "Researching Derry and Londonderry Ancestors: Historical Background" (PDF).
- ^ Morrison, A. K. (1907). "John Glendy, of Maghera, Co. Derry, Presbyterian Minister and Patriot, 1798". Ulster Journal of Archaeology. 13 (3): (101–105) 103. ISSN 0082-7355. JSTOR 20608633.
- ^ Courtney, Roger (2013). Dissenting Voices: Rediscovering the Irish Progressive Presbyterian Tradition. Belfast: Ulster Historical Foundation. pp. 90, 108–109. ISBN 9781909556065.
- ^ "Parades and Marches – Chronology 2: Historical Dates and Events". Conflict Archive on the Internet. Retrieved 28 January 2010.
- ^ "Maghera Parish | Parish History". magheraparishderry.com. Retrieved 20 October 2021.
- ^ Bryson, A. (2007). 'Whatever You Say, Say Nothing': Researching Memory & Identity in Mid-Ulster 1945–1969'. Oral History, 35(2), (45–56), 46.
- ^ "CAIN: Sutton Index of Deaths". Ulster University. Retrieved 20 October 2021.
- ^ "Ulster Towns Directory, 1910: Maghera, County Derry". libraryireland.com. Retrieved 20 October 2021.
- ^ Agency, Northern Ireland Statistics and Research. "statistics". ninis2.nisra.gov.uk. Retrieved 20 October 2021.
- ^ "Local Government Act (Northern Ireland) 1972". Legislation.gov.uk. Archived from the original on 30 October 2019. Retrieved 29 November 2019.
- ^ "Mid-Ulster District Council". Retrieved 5 September 2019.[permanent dead link]
- ^ "St Lurach's Church – Historic Site in Maghera, Northern Ireland". Visit Mid Ulster. Retrieved 15 September 2022.
- ^ "Age". NISRA. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Sex (MS-A07)". NISRA. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Religion or religion brought up in". NISRA. Retrieved 18 August 2023.
- ^ "National Identity (British)". NISRA. Retrieved 18 August 2023.
- ^ "National Identity (Irish)". NISRA. Retrieved 18 August 2023.
- ^ "National Identity (Northern Irish)". NISRA. Retrieved 18 August 2023.
- ^ "Knowledge of Irish". NISRA. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Knowledge of Ulster-Scots". NISRA. Retrieved 1 July 2024.
- ^ "Census 2011 Population Statistics for Maghera (Magherafelt Lgd) Settlement". NISRA. Retrieved 29 September 2022.
- ^ "Census 2011 Usually Resident Population: KS101NI – Table view". Northern Ireland Statistics and Research Agency (NISRA). p. 6. Retrieved 30 July 2019.
- ^ "Census 2001 Usually Resident Population: KS01 (Settlements) – Table view". Northern Ireland Statistics and Research Agency (NISRA). p. 5. Retrieved 30 July 2019.
- ^ "Maghera station" (PDF). Railscot – Irish Railways. Retrieved 28 September 2011.
External links
[edit]Maghera
View on GrokipediaGeography
Location and physical features
Maghera lies in the Mid Ulster District of County Londonderry, Northern Ireland, positioned at the southeastern base of the Glenshane Pass, a key mountain pass through the Sperrin Mountains. The town is approximately 8 miles (13 km) west of Magherafelt and 31 miles (50 km) southeast of Derry/Londonderry, along the A6 road connecting Belfast and Derry.[4][5] Its geographic coordinates are 54°50′38″N 6°40′17″W.[6] The settlement occupies a valley floor at an average elevation of 74 metres (243 ft) above sea level, with surrounding terrain featuring modest elevation changes up to 113 metres within 2 miles.[7][8] To the north and west, the landscape rises into the uplands of the Sperrins, including blanket bog habitats protected within the Carn/Glenshane Pass Special Area of Conservation, spanning areas between Maghera and Dungiven.[9] Nearby Glenshane Forest covers 1,000 hectares of coniferous woodland interspersed with heather moorland, originating the River Roe.[10] The pass itself exhibits steep gradients, valleys, and rocky outcrops, facilitating scenic drives amid the mountainous backdrop.[11]History
Ancient and medieval origins
![Tirnony Dolmen near Maghera][float-right] The area around Maghera contains evidence of prehistoric settlement, exemplified by the Tirnony Dolmen, a portal tomb located approximately one mile north of the town. Dating to around 3500 BC during the Neolithic period, this structure consists of standing stones supporting a horizontal capstone and was used for the interment of cremated remains of selected community members.[12][13] Archaeological findings at the site include flint tools, underscoring its use over 5,000 years ago.[14] Maghera's religious significance emerged in the early Christian era with the establishment of a monastery in the 6th century, marking it as a key ecclesiastical center in ancient Celtic times. The site, associated with Saint Lurach, developed into a prominent monastic settlement, as indicated by its Irish name Machaire Rátha, interpreted as "the plain of the fort" or evoking solemn religious rites.[15][2] This foundation aligned with broader patterns of early Irish Christianity, where monasteries served as hubs for learning, worship, and regional influence. In the medieval period, Maghera attained further prominence, functioning as a bishop's seat and featuring a round tower constructed around the 10th century, a hallmark of high-status early medieval Irish church sites. The existing church ruins, with elements dating to the 12th or 13th century, reflect ongoing development amid historical disruptions, including Viking plundering and a recorded burning in 1135.[2] These events highlight the site's enduring vulnerability and resilience within the turbulent socio-political landscape of medieval Ireland.[16]Early modern period to 19th century
Following the initiation of the Plantation of Ulster in 1609, the Maghera area in County Londonderry fell under the colonization scheme directed by the City of London, which allocated estates to its livery companies for settlement by English and Scottish Protestants aimed at securing loyalty and developing agriculture and trade.[17] This involved clearing native Irish tenants where feasible and establishing bawn fortifications, though implementation varied due to resistance and logistical challenges, resulting in mixed native and settler populations persisting in rural parishes like Maghera.[18] The 1641 Irish Rebellion profoundly disrupted these early settlements across Ulster, with Catholic insurgents targeting Protestant planters, displacing thousands and halting plantation progress until the Cromwellian reconquest of 1649–1653, which led to further land forfeitures and reinforced English military presence.[19] The subsequent Williamite War (1688–1691) cemented Protestant ascendancy in the region through victories at the Battle of the Boyne (1690) and Aughrim (1691), stabilizing settler tenure amid ongoing sectarian tensions. By the early 18th century, economic consolidation occurred, with flax cultivation introduced as a cash crop, laying foundations for linen production that employed both communities in domestic spinning and weaving.[20] In the mid-18th century, the linen trade expanded regionally, exemplified by the Clark family's establishment of a mill in nearby Upperlands in 1736, which processed local flax and spurred ancillary activities like bleaching greens around Maghera.[21] This industry provided resilience against subsistence farming risks, though small-scale operations dominated until mechanization pressures mounted. The Great Famine (1845–1852), triggered by potato blight, inflicted significant hardship, contributing to Ulster's 15.7% population drop through mortality and emigration, with local workhouses in adjacent Magherafelt overwhelmed by relief demands despite linen's mitigating role.[22] Late-century infrastructure, including the Derry Central Railway's extension to Maghera station on 18 December 1880, enhanced market access for linen exports and agricultural goods.[23]20th century developments and the Troubles
In the mid-20th century, Maghera's economy continued to revolve around agriculture, with significant shifts toward mechanization in the 1940s and 1950s that altered traditional farming practices across rural Northern Ireland, reducing reliance on manual labor and draught animals.[24] Local shops and services reflected post-war consumer changes, including increased availability of goods in the 1950s and 1960s, though the town remained small-scale compared to urban centers.[25] The late 1960s marked the arrival of the Troubles in Maghera, beginning with civil rights tensions. On 2 January 1969, during the People's Democracy march from Belfast to Derry, participants reached Maghera and encountered hostile crowds, sparking riots that shattered shop windows and caused widespread damage to buildings, as reported in contemporary news coverage of the unrest.[26][27] This early violence foreshadowed deeper sectarian divisions in the predominantly mixed community. Throughout the conflict, Maghera experienced sporadic but deadly incidents involving republican and loyalist paramilitaries, as well as security forces. On 19 April 1978, British soldier David Jones, aged 23, was shot dead by the Provisional Irish Republican Army (PIRA) during a gun battle in a field near the town.[28] On 24 October 1989, Sinn Féin councillor John Davey was killed by loyalist gunmen near Maghera.[29] The PIRA shot civilian David Andrew Shiels dead outside his mobile home near the town on 3 December 1990, an attack later documented in inquiries highlighting the group's targeting of perceived informants.[30] Catholic civilian Fergal McCusker was kidnapped and shot by the Loyalist Volunteer Force in Maghera on 9 July 1998, one of the conflict's final fatalities in the area, with his case involving allegations of state collusion under review.[31] In total, at least seven documented deaths occurred in or near Maghera from paramilitary actions, contributing to a toll that included security personnel and civilians from both communities.[3] These events exacerbated local tensions, with security checkpoints and patrols becoming routine amid fears of bombings and shootings, though Maghera avoided the scale of urban warfare seen in Derry or Belfast. The violence reflected broader patterns in mid-Ulster, where republican groups like the PIRA conducted ambushes on forces while loyalists targeted nationalists, often in tit-for-tat escalations.[28][29]Post-1998 peace process and recent events
Following the Good Friday Agreement of 10 April 1998, which established mechanisms for power-sharing governance, prisoner releases, and the decommissioning of paramilitary weapons, Maghera transitioned from the heightened sectarian tensions of the Troubles era to a period of relative stability. The agreement's provisions, including the normalization of policing through the Police Service of Northern Ireland (reformed from the Royal Ulster Constabulary), contributed to a marked decline in paramilitary activity across County Londonderry, with Maghera experiencing no reported fatalities or major incidents linked to ongoing conflict thereafter. This cessation allowed local communities to redirect resources toward reconciliation and development, aligning with the agreement's emphasis on cross-community cooperation. Economic and infrastructural investments emerged as key outcomes of the peace process in Maghera, fostering regeneration in a town previously strained by violence and underinvestment. Community-led initiatives, supported by regional funding tied to post-agreement stability, focused on urban renewal to boost tourism and local commerce. In October 2025, the completion of the initial phase of a £4 million public realm scheme was officially launched, featuring enhanced streetscapes, pedestrian areas, and heritage elements in the town center to revitalize the area and attract visitors. Such projects reflect broader post-1998 efforts to integrate economic growth with social cohesion, though challenges like housing development fluctuations—exemplified by the 2012 receivership of local builder Younger Homes, which had constructed over 100 units in Maghera—highlight ongoing vulnerabilities in the local economy. Recent events in Maghera have underscored both progress and minor disruptions amid sustained peace. In April 2024, a derelict building in the town, historically significant as the origin point for Northern Ireland's civil rights movement in the 1960s, was deliberately set ablaze, prompting investigations into arson but no links to organized violence. Local political engagement has also evolved, with figures like Sinn Féin Agriculture Minister Michelle O'Neill intervening in 2011 to address a landslip affecting a Maghera family's property, demonstrating continuity in community support structures post-devolution. Overall, these developments indicate Maghera's alignment with Northern Ireland's trajectory of low-level stability, where residual divisions manifest more in political discourse than in conflict.Demographics
Population trends and census data
The usually resident population of Maghera Settlement was 3,711 according to the 2001 Census.[3] By the 2011 Census, this had risen to 4,220, reflecting a growth rate of approximately 13.7% over the decade, consistent with migration patterns and local economic factors in Mid Ulster. The 2021 Census recorded a further slight increase to 4,222, yielding an annual growth rate of just 0.005% from 2011 to 2021, indicating demographic stabilization amid broader Northern Ireland trends of slowing rural population expansion.[1][32]| Census Year | Population | Intercensal Change |
|---|---|---|
| 2001 | 3,711 | - |
| 2011 | 4,220 | +13.7% |
| 2021 | 4,222 | +0.05% |
