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Mount Hayes
Mount Hayes
Mount Hayes
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Mount Hayes is the highest mountain in the eastern Alaska Range, in the U.S. state of Alaska. Despite not being a fourteener, it is one of the largest peaks in the United States in terms of rise above local terrain. For example, the Northeast Face rises 8,000 feet (2,440 m) in approximately 2 miles (3.2 km). This large vertical relief contributes to Mount Hayes being the 51st most topographically prominent peak in the world.[3]

Key Information

The mountain was named in 1898 by W. J. Peters and A. H. Brooks of the U.S. Geological Survey for Charles Willard Hayes (1858–1916), a geologist with the Survey from 1887 through 1911.[4]

On 29 July 1941 Bradford Washburn, Barbara Washburn,[5] Benjamin Ferris, Sterling Hendricks, Henry Hall, and William Shand reached 12,650 ft. via the North Ridge but a storm was approaching and, with the summit only a little over 1000ft higher and just half a mile away, the party decided that they should descend to safety. On August 1, 1941 the party made another attempt, Hall remained in camp but the others were successful in making the first ascent of Mount Hayes.[6] The route up the North Ridge wasn't repeated until 1975, it "is considered one of the great landmarks of Alaskan mountaineering because of its great technical difficulty at the time".[7]

Today's standard climbing route is the East Ridge (Alaska Grade 2+). Mount Hayes is not frequently climbed due to its remoteness and the resulting access difficulties.[citation needed]

Climate

[edit]

Based on the Köppen climate classification, Mount Hayes is located in a subarctic climate zone with long, cold, snowy winters, and mild summers.[8] Temperatures can drop below −20 °C with wind chill factors below −30 °C. This climate supports glaciers on its slopes including the Hayes Glacier. Precipitation runoff from the mountain drains into tributaries of the Tanana River drainage basin. The months May through June offer the most favorable weather for climbing or viewing.

[edit]
  • North aspect viewed from Molybdenum Ridge
    North aspect viewed from Molybdenum Ridge
  • Aerial view
    Aerial view
  • Mount Hayes from the south
    Mount Hayes from the south
Mount Hayes and the eastern Alaska Range mountains, as seen from the Denali Highway,
L→R: Mount Balchen, Mount Hayes, Moby Dick, Mount Shand

See also

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References

[edit]

Sources

[edit]

Michael Wood and Colby Coombs, Alaska: A Climbing Guide, The Mountaineers, 2001.

[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Mount Hayes

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from Grokipedia
Mount Hayes is a prominent ultra-peak in the eastern of central , , standing at an elevation of 13,832 feet (4,216 m) and serving as the highest summit in the Hayes Range subrange. With a of 11,482 feet (3,500 m), it rises dramatically from the surrounding terrain, ranking as one of the most isolated and visually striking mountains globally, located about 43 miles southwest of Delta Junction in the Unorganized Borough. The mountain's massive glaciers, steep northeast face exceeding 8,000 feet in rise, and remote position in federally managed territory define its rugged character. Named in 1898 by U.S. Geological Survey s W. J. Peters and A. H. Brooks, Mount Hayes honors Charles Willard Hayes (1858–1916), a fellow USGS who contributed to early surveys of the American West and from 1887 to 1911. The peak's coordinates are approximately 63°37′12″N 146°42′59″W, at the head of Hayes Glacier, within a glacially sculpted landscape formed during the Pleistocene epoch as part of the broader . Exploration of the area began in the late with USGS mapping efforts, but the mountain's isolation—over 125 miles from the nearest higher peak—delayed detailed study until aerial reconnaissance in the . The first recorded ascent occurred on August 1, 1941, by a six-person expedition led by , including his wife Barbara Washburn, Sterling Hendricks, Benjamin Ferris, William Shand, and Henry S. Hall Jr., following failed attempts in 1935 by University of students and in 1937 by another party due to . The climb involved innovative logistics, including parachuted supplies and multiple base camps, highlighting the peak's logistical challenges amid unpredictable Alaskan conditions. Subsequent ascents, such as the first traverse of its northeast face in 2014, have emphasized routes on ice and mixed terrain, but the mountain remains rarely summited owing to its distance from roads and need for access.

Geography

Location and Coordinates

Mount Hayes is situated in the Southeast Fairbanks Census Area of , , within the eastern portion of the . This remote peak serves as the highest point in the Southeast Fairbanks Census Area and anchors the Hayes Range subsection of the broader system, which stretches across central . The mountain's position places it amid vast wilderness, bounded by glacial features and plains to the north and south. The precise geographic coordinates of Mount Hayes are 63°37′12″N 146°42′59″W. It stands as the highest peak in the eastern , rising prominently at the head of Hayes Glacier. Approximately 90 miles southeast of Fairbanks, the nearest major settlement, and 45 miles south of the valley, the mountain offers distant visibility from northern vantage points on clear days. Access to Mount Hayes is challenging due to its isolated setting, with no direct road connections available. Approaches typically involve flights or transport from regional bases, often landing on nearby glaciers or alpine terrain, followed by overland travel on foot or depending on seasonal conditions. This remoteness underscores the peak's status within Alaska's untrammeled interior landscapes.

Topography and Prominence

Mount Hayes stands at an of 13,832 feet (4,216 meters) above , making it the highest peak in the eastern . Its measures 11,482 feet (3,500 meters), qualifying it as an ultra-prominent summit—a category reserved for peaks with at least 1,500 meters (4,921 feet) of prominence—and ranking it as the 51st most prominent peak in the world. This substantial rise above the surrounding terrain underscores its dominance in the regional landscape, where it overshadows nearby summits and contributes to the rugged character of the Hayes Range. The mountain's topographical profile features steep faces and prominent ridges that define its imposing form. The Northeast Face rises dramatically, gaining approximately 8,000 feet (2,438 meters) in vertical relief over roughly 2 miles (3.2 kilometers), creating one of the most sheer escarpments in the . Multiple ridges extend from the summit, including the East , North , and South , which provide key access points for exploration while framing the peak's glacier-covered flanks. Surrounding subsidiary peaks, such as Mount Hayes - South Peak at 13,305 feet (4,055 meters), further accentuate the main summit's scale and form a complex of high-elevation features. Mount Hayes exhibits significant isolation, with a true isolation distance of over 125 miles (202 kilometers) to the nearest higher peak, far exceeding 50 miles and reinforcing its status as a dominant feature in the eastern . This remoteness amplifies the peak's prominence, as it rises independently from the lowlands without close competition from taller neighbors, shaping a visually striking and topographically isolated .

Formation and Terranes

Mount Hayes is situated within the eastern , a mountain belt primarily formed through ongoing subduction of the Pacific Plate beneath the North American Plate along the during the era. This has driven the collision and deformation of continental margins, resulting in the uplift and structural of the range. The principal geological units underlying the mountain include the Maclaren , a continental fragment consisting of metamorphic rocks such as argillite, metagraywacke, and formed in a synorogenic Andean-type arc setting along the western margin of ; the Clearwater , characterized by deformed oceanic sediments including , , , and greenstone; and the Wrangellia , which preserves remnants of a late with Nikolai Greenstone and associated subterranes like Slana River and Tangle. These s were accreted in the middle along thrusts such as the Broxson Gulch and Eureka Creek, and subsequently displaced approximately 400 km by dextral motion along the nearby Fault system, as mapped in the Mount Hayes quadrangle. Uplift of the , including Mount Hayes, initiated during the , with significant phases beginning in the around 6–5 million years ago, driven by thrust faulting and magmatic activity, with ongoing isostatic rebound contributing to continued elevation in response to erosional unloading and glacial retreat. The has played a key role in this process, facilitating strike-slip deformation and lateral translation of terranes. USGS assessments of the Mount Hayes quadrangle indicate potential for metalliferous mineral deposits, including high prospects for porphyry copper-gold-silver and copper-molybdenum types in the Wrangellia and s, as well as skarn-related tungsten-molybdenum and copper-zinc-lead occurrences near granitic intrusions, based on geochemical anomalies and favorable geologic environments.

Rock Composition and Features

Mount Hayes is primarily composed of igneous and metamorphic rocks derived from the , a assemblage south of the Fault. The dominant igneous units include fine- to medium-grained and intrusions, such as the hornblende-biotite of the East Susitna and light-gray that intrudes ultramafic bodies. Metamorphic rocks predominate in the Maclaren Glacier Formation, featuring amphibolite-grade s and es, including quartz-mica , calc-schist, garnet-biotite-plagioclase , and augen . These units exhibit increasing metamorphic grade northward, transitioning from lower to middle . Structural elements of the mountain include fault-bounded contacts between s and intrusive features from plutonism. The Fault marks a major boundary separating the from the Yukon-Tanana to the north, while subsidiary faults like the Broxson Gulch and Meteor Peak fault define internal divisions within the . -age dikes and sills, including granitic, gabbroic, and varieties (such as ), crosscut the , with thicknesses up to several meters. Glacial has profoundly shaped surface features, carving cirques, arêtes, and steep exposures that reveal the diverse strata across the mountain's high vertical relief of over 4,000 meters. Recent geologic mapping (e.g., 2020 DGGS Report of Investigations) has refined the distribution of these units in the Mount Hayes quadrangle. Geologic mapping in the Mount Hayes quadrangle by the USGS documents these compositions through units like the Maclaren Glacier Formation, which consists of argillite, metagraywacke, , and with estimated thicknesses of 2,000 to 6,700 meters. Unlike the nearby Hayes Volcano, a remnant in the Tordrillo Mountains, Mount Hayes shows no evidence of active or recent , its entirely plutonic and metamorphic in origin.

History

Naming and Early Recognition

Mount Hayes was named in 1898 by (USGS) s William J. Peters and Alfred H. Brooks during their reconnaissance of the Alaska interior. They honored Charles Willard Hayes, a prominent USGS (1858–1916) known for his extensive work on the of the Appalachian region, including studies of its coal fields and structural features. Hayes had joined the USGS in 1887 and contributed significantly to understanding the overthrust faults and sedimentary formations of the southern Appalachians before his death. The peak was first noted on maps as part of the USGS surveys, which aimed to document the geography and mineral resources of central amid growing interest in prospects. It appeared prominently in early reports. While no pre-contact indigenous name for the specific peak has been widely recorded in historical European sources, Athabascan peoples of the region, including the Ahtna and Lower Tanana, refer to it as Xasatl'aadi (Ahtna) or Xosrotl'odi (Lower Tanana), meaning "the one with upward sun at headwaters," reflecting its role as a navigational in oral traditions. The broader eastern area holds deep cultural significance in Native Alaskan narratives, serving as a boundary and point in stories of migration, hunting, and seasonal cycles among Athabascan groups.

Exploration and Mapping

The exploration and mapping of Mount Hayes began with early reconnaissance efforts by the (USGS) during the late . In 1898, as part of a broader expedition to assess Alaskan mineral resources, topographer W.J. Peters and geologist A.H. Brooks led a survey that ascended the White River from the and portaged to the headwaters of the basin, where they first identified and named the peak after geologist Charles Willard Hayes. This initial mapping was rudimentary, relying on ground traverses and basic in a vast, unexplored region, providing the first approximate coordinates and elevation estimates for the mountain as part of the Tanana River drainage reconnaissance. Advancements in the 20th century significantly improved the accuracy of Mount Hayes' cartography, particularly through the integration of aerial methods. Aerial photography initiated in the 1940s by the USGS and military agencies facilitated better identification of the peak's position within the eastern Alaska Range, overcoming limitations of ground-based surveys in the rugged terrain. This photographic data contributed to more detailed topographic representations, culminating in the 1965 USGS Geologic Quadrangle Map GQ-366 of the Mt. Hayes D-3 area, compiled by G.W. Holmes and T.L. Péwé, which delineated the mountain's contours at a scale of 1:63,360 using a combination of field observations and aerial imagery. Key aerial expeditions in further advanced understanding of the mountain's topographic significance. Mountaineer and photographer conducted extensive aerial surveys of the , including a reconnaissance flight over the Hayes Range that captured high-resolution images highlighting Mount Hayes' isolated prominence amid surrounding glaciers and valleys. These efforts, supported by the , aided subsequent USGS mapping initiatives. The remote location of Mount Hayes in the eastern posed significant challenges to early exploration and mapping, with dense forests, glacial barriers, and extreme weather limiting ground access and accuracy until aviation technologies advanced after . Pre-war surveys depended heavily on arduous overland travel, often incomplete due to logistical constraints, but fixed-wing and improved enabled systematic coverage of previously inaccessible areas, transforming the feasibility of detailed quadrangle mapping.

Mountaineering

First Ascent

The first ascent of Mount Hayes was completed on August 1, , by a team led by mountaineer and cartographer . The summit party included Washburn's wife, Barbara Washburn, along with Benjamin Ferris, Sterling Hendricks, Henry Hall, and William Shand; an additional team member, Lt. , served as an observer for the initial two weeks of the expedition. This marked the inaugural successful climb of the 13,832-foot (4,216 m) peak, the highest in the eastern . The team approached via the North , establishing a base camp at approximately 4,900 feet (1,490 m) on the Hayes Glacier after a 13-mile hike from an airstrip and a crossing of the glacier's crevassed surface. The route involved a demanding ascent through a series of and features, including a 1,400-foot (430 m) initial slope, an 8,300-foot (2,530 m) shoulder, a cache site at 9,000 feet (2,740 m), and a notch at 9,300 feet (2,840 m), culminating in a final traverse and a steep to the summit. Technical challenges included cutting steps in hard and navigating exposed sections with steep steps and limited handholds, consistent with an Alaska Grade 2 and climb. Logistics for the multi-week expedition, spanning June to August 1941, relied on innovative air support coordinated from , about 90 miles (145 km) northwest of the peak. Supplies were transported over 90 miles by Wien Airlines pilot Johnny Lynn, with critical gear parachuted to the landing field on July 20 to establish the base camp efficiently despite rugged terrain. Washburn's prior flights over the Hayes Range in 1936 provided essential photographic intelligence that informed route selection and planning. This pioneering effort represented one of the earliest major ascents in the remote eastern , highlighting advancements in Alaskan logistics through . The climb was meticulously documented by Washburn in the 1942 edition of the American Alpine Journal, including photographs and a detailed narrative of the challenges overcome.

Routes and Notable Climbs

The East Ridge serves as the standard route to Mount Hayes' summit, rated Alaska Grade 2+ and involving approximately 5,000–6,800 feet of elevation gain from a typical base camp at around 7,000 feet on the Trident Glacier. Climbers typically approach via fixed-wing aircraft landing on the glacier, followed by a 2–3 day ascent that features moderate snow and ice slopes, with occasional steep sections requiring crampons and ice axes up to the final ridge crest. This route, first completed as the mountain's second ascent in May 1972 by Dan Osborne (leader), Mark Hottmann, Tom Hillis, and James A. Brady, offers a more straightforward alternative to the North Ridge while still demanding alpine skills amid variable weather. The North Ridge, site of the 1941 first ascent, remains a notable and more committing line, also graded Alaska Grade 2+ but characterized by corniced sections, soft snow, and exposure that test endurance in remote conditions. Subsequent ascents, such as a 1975 repeat and a 2022 expedition by the Alaska Alpine Club, highlight its status as a classic Alaskan testpiece, often involving night climbing to manage snow conditions and multi-day efforts from access points. Other significant routes include the West Face, first ascended in 1976 to join the North Ridge (Alaska Grade 4, with steep ice and rock) by a team reaching the summit as the mountain's sixth overall ascent, and the Direct West Face in 2010 by and Ryan Hokanson, featuring technical mixed terrain. South Face variations, rated Grade 3–4, incorporate avalanche-prone couloirs and have seen rare winter attempts due to high objective hazards. Mount Hayes remains rarely summited owing to its extreme remoteness—over 100 miles from the nearest road—and frequent storms that can strand parties for days. Access relies on air services like Tok Air Service, which provides glacier landings for self-supported or guided trips, enabling recent notable efforts such as the 2013 solo ascent of the Southeast Face (approximately 6,550 feet, AI4) by Colin Johnson in an 18-hour push, and the 2014 "Thicker Than Thieves" traverse (VI 5.8 AI4 M5, 7,300 feet of new terrain) to the South Buttress by John Giraldo, Jason Stuckey, and Angela VanWiemeersch. In 2021, Billy Haas completed the first ski descent of the Southwest Face. These climbs underscore the peak's appeal for elite alpinists seeking big-wall challenges in the Hayes Range, though the combination of logistics and weather deters casual expeditions.

Climate and Environment

Climatic Patterns

Mount Hayes experiences a classified under the Köppen Dfc regime, marked by prolonged cold periods and limited warm months. Winters dominate from through May, with persistent subfreezing temperatures and substantial snow accumulation, while summers span to August and remain brief and mild, with daytime averages at the mountain's base ranging from 10–15°C (50–59°F). Temperature extremes underscore the harsh conditions, particularly during winter when lows at lower elevations frequently drop below -20°C (-4°F), and effects can intensify perceived cold to -30°C (-22°F) or lower. In contrast, summer highs at the summit, situated at over 4,200 meters (13,800 feet), seldom surpass 20°C (68°F), reflecting the elevational cooling and exposure. These patterns arise from the interplay of masses and occasional incursions from warmer Pacific influences, though the interior limits moderation. Annual precipitation totals 10–15 inches (250–380 mm), predominantly as during the extended winter, with the remainder falling as in summer. This moisture is primarily driven by Pacific storms that lose intensity crossing the , combined with drier continental air masses that prevail in the eastern interior, resulting in relatively low overall totals compared to coastal regions. Winds are a defining feature, with frequent katabatic flows descending from the surrounding glaciers, often reaching strong velocities that enhance cooling and reduce visibility during storms. Optimal conditions for visibility and relative stability occur in May and , aiding efforts during this transitional period.

Glaciers and Hydrology

Mount Hayes hosts several glaciers, with the Hayes Glacier serving as the primary ice feature on its northwestern slopes. This valley glacier originates at elevations exceeding 10,000 feet (3,000 m) and flows generally northeast for approximately 25 miles (40 km), terminating near the headwaters of the Hayes River about 20 miles (32 km) southwest of Delta Junction. Smaller glaciers occupy the north and east faces of the mountain, including an eastern branch of the Hayes Glacier system and various and glaciers characterized by extensive fields that pose hazards to traversal. The glaciers on Mount Hayes are classified as temperate, maintaining temperatures at the pressure-melting point throughout much of their thickness, which allows for significant basal sliding and seasonal variations in . These dynamics drive annual advances and retreats influenced by accumulation in winter and in summer, contributing to ongoing of features like the steep Northeast Face through plucking and abrasion processes. Monitoring efforts in the eastern , including and field observations, indicate retreat trends consistent with broader regional patterns, with reduced ice extent linked to rising temperatures. As of 2025, projections suggest Alaska's glaciers will lose approximately 76% of their 2020 mass by 2100 under current climate policies. Hydrologically, meltwater from these glaciers primarily feeds into the Hayes River , where it combines with tributaries originating at the and flows northeast to join the system. This northward drainage pathway reflects the mountain's position on the northern flank of the divide, with no significant lakes forming at the bases due to the steep and efficient fluvial transport. The , with its pronounced seasonal melt cycles, sustains this system but amplifies flood risks during peak ablation periods.

Cultural Significance

Role in Alaskan Lore

Mount Hayes occupies a place in the traditional territories of the Tanana Athabascan people, particularly the band of the Upper Tanana, where it is known as Xasatl’aadi, or "the one of the upward sun headwaters," and is associated with hunting practices and community identity for affiliated groups including those at Healy Lake, Mentasta, Northway, Tetlin, and Ketchumstuk. In Athabascan oral histories, mountains in the function as revered navigational landmarks and spiritual anchors, emphasizing endurance and connection to the land. Among early European-American settlers and explorers in the 19th and early 20th centuries, Mount Hayes emerged as a potent symbol of in survey narratives and geological , embodying the challenges and allure of the uncharted interior. In historical media portrayals, Mount Hayes has appeared in documentaries chronicling the Alaska Range's dramatic landscapes, such as the 2006 Alaskan Reminiscences, which features explorer Washburn's expeditions and underscores the mountain's role in evoking the raw adventure of Alaskan . It also holds a minor presence in broader adventure narratives of the era, where it represents the formidable barrier of the northern wilds in tales of scientific and territorial discovery.

Modern Conspiracy Theories

One prominent modern posits that Mount Hayes serves as an extraterrestrial base, allegedly housed within a hollow structure inside the mountain. This notion traces its origins to declassified CIA documents from the , which detail experiments under programs like Project Stargate, where participants described anomalous entities and installations at the site, including human-like operators at consoles within the peak. These claims gained renewed attention in media discussions from 2023 onward, with references to the documents fueling speculation about hidden alien activity. Mount Hayes is also frequently linked to the broader "Alaska Triangle" phenomenon, a region notorious for unexplained disappearances, anomalous lights, and aircraft incidents spanning from Anchorage to Juneau and Utqiagvik. Proponents suggest the mountain acts as a central hub for these events, potentially connected to extraterrestrial interference. This association was prominently featured in the 2020 Travel Channel episode "The Secrets of Mount Hayes" from the series The Alaska Triangle, which explored eyewitness accounts of UFOs near the peak and speculated on underground bases contributing to regional mysteries. In 2025, reports of UFO sightings near Mount Hayes surged, particularly following viral eyewitness videos captured from Fairbanks depicting unidentified lights and objects hovering around the summit. These incidents, shared widely on and news outlets, prompted amateur investigations but yielded no verified evidence from official bodies such as the (FAA) or the (USGS). The FAA has not documented any anomalous airspace intrusions in the area, while USGS seismic records show only routine tectonic activity unrelated to the alleged phenomena. Skeptics dismiss these theories as products of misidentification, attributing reported sightings to , atmospheric phenomena like lenticular clouds, or auroral effects common in 's remote skies. The (AARO), in its 2024 historical report on unidentified anomalous phenomena (UAP), concluded that the vast majority of such cases involve prosaic explanations, including observer error and natural events, with no supporting extraterrestrial bases. Similarly, the Alaska Volcano Observatory, part of the USGS, monitors regional for volcanic and tectonic hazards but has recorded no unusual activity at or near Mount Hayes that could substantiate claims of subterranean structures or anomalies.

References

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