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Slesse Mountain
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Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the Canada–United States border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack. It is notable for its large, steep local relief. For example, its west face drops over 1,950 m (6,398 ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3 km (2 mi). It is also famous for its huge Northeast Buttress; see the climbing notes below. The name means "fang" in the Halkomelem language.[2] Notable nearby mountains include Mount Rexford and Canadian Border Peak in British Columbia, and American Border Peak, Mount Shuksan, and Mount Baker, all in the US state of Washington.[1]
Key Information
Geology
[edit]Most of Mount Slesse is made up of granitic rocks related to the Chilliwack batholith, which intruded the region 26 to 29 million years ago after the major orogenic episodes in the region. This is part of the Pemberton Volcanic Belt, an eroded volcanic belt that formed as a result of the subduction of the Farallon Plate starting 29 million years ago.[3][4][5] The primary rock comprising Slesse is grey diorite from the batholith. However, the summit ridge and the west face are composed of Darrington Phyllite, a metamorphic rock, produced by contact metamorphism with the rock of the batholith and with an intrusion of granodiorite.[2]
History
[edit]Mount Slesse was first climbed on August 10, 1927, by Stan Henderson, Mills Winram, and Fred Parkes, via a route starting from Slesse Creek. The standard route today is the Southwest Route, which involves approximately 1,650 m (5,413 ft) of ascent, a good deal of scrambling and some sections of technical rock climbing up to class 5.6. However Slesse is most famous for the Northeast Buttress, first climbed on August 28, 1963 by Fred Beckey, Steve Marts, and Eric Bjornstad. It is a serious multi-day rock climb (Grade V) with technical difficulty of class 5.8 or 5.9.[2] This climb is featured in Roper and Steck's Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. In July 1966 Hans Baer and Jack Bryan did the second ascent of this route, with one bivouac and a straight line exit at the top of the buttress. Climbers come to the Fraser Valley from around the world to climb the aesthetic 24 pitch granite spire, making it one of the most iconic climbs in North America. While the original ascents of Mt. Slesse were multi-day excursions, most modern climbing parties climb the route in a single day.
On December 9, 1956, Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810, a North Star airplane crashed on the upper slopes of the mountain, killing all 62 people aboard.[6] This was one of the world's worst air disasters up to that time. Prominent among the dead were team members of the Winnipeg Blue Bombers and Saskatchewan Roughriders, on their way home from the annual East-West All-Star Game in Vancouver.[7][8] A memorial to the dead can be found on a spur road just above the Chilliwack River Road. The site itself was supposed to have been consecrated by the Cemeteries Act after the discovery of the crash site and associated human remains, some of which were gathered into a common grave. Others found by climbers and hikers have been placed in a "shrine" out of the weather in a discreet location. In the 1990s the provincial government, under pressure from the Families of Slesse organization, finally passed legislation to enshrine protection of the site, which was under threat from clearcut logging at the time, and markers have been placed on trails leading into the site requesting it be respected by hikers and others accessing it.
Gallery
[edit]-
Mount Slesse and its neighbouring range -
A propeller from Trans-Canada Airlines Flight 810
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ a b "Slesse Mountain". BC Geographical Names. Retrieved 2021-06-07.
- ^ a b c Beckey, Fred (1995). Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 3 (Second ed.). The Mountaineers. pp. 165–177. ISBN 0-89886-423-2.
- ^ Cenozoic to Recent plate configurations in the Pacific Basin: Ridge subduction and slab window magmatism in western North America
- ^ Miocene peralkaline volcanism in west-central British Columbia - Its temporal and plate-tectonics setting
- ^ Catalogue of Canadian volcanoes: Franklin Glacier Archived 2010-12-11 at the Wayback Machine
- ^ O'Keefe, Betty and MacDonald, Ian, Disaster on Mount Slesse, Caitlin Press, 2006, ISBN 1-894759-21-4
- ^ McNeil, Shane (November 2, 2012). "Engraved On a Nation: A Family United Through Tragedy". The Sports Network. Retrieved November 2, 2012.
- ^ Beamish, Mike (November 1, 2012). "Fatal 1956 CFL air crash-Engraved On a Nation: Recalling a flight taken, and not taken". The Vancouver Sun. Retrieved November 2, 2012.
Further reading
[edit]- Steve Roper and Allen Steck, Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, Sierra Club Books, 1996, ISBN 0-87156-884-5.
External links
[edit]- "Slesse Mountain". Bivouac.com.
- "Slesse Mountain, British Columbia". Peakbagger.com.
- "Slesse Mountain". SummitPost.org.
- Trip report by George Bell
- British Columbia Hansard debate on Slesse Commemorative Site
Slesse Mountain
View on Grokipediafrom Grokipedia
Slesse Mountain is a 2,429-metre (7,969 ft) peak in the North Cascades of southwestern British Columbia, Canada, situated about two miles north of the Canada–United States border near Chilliwack.[1][2]
Geologically, the mountain formed as part of the Pemberton Volcanic Belt approximately 26 to 29 million years ago, featuring igneous rock characteristic of the region's volcanic history.[3]
It holds prominence for mountaineers, with its first ascent achieved in 1927 via the southwest route from Slesse Creek by Stan Henderson, Mills Winram, and Fred Parkes, and subsequent notable routes including the Northeast Buttress and East Face, which attract climbers seeking challenging alpine terrain.[2]
The mountain gained tragic notoriety on December 9, 1956, when Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810, a Canadair C-4 North Star, crashed into its slopes amid severe icing and turbulence, resulting in the loss of all 62 people aboard in one of Canada's deadliest aviation disasters at the time.[4][5]
Physical Geography
Location and Topography
Slesse Mountain is situated in the Skagit Range of the Cascade Mountains in British Columbia, Canada, at coordinates 49°1'31"N 121°35'51"W.[1] The peak lies approximately 3 kilometers north of the Canada–United States border and overlooks the Chilliwack River Valley to the northwest.[2][6] The mountain rises to an elevation of 2,429 meters (7,969 feet) above sea level, with a topographic prominence of 862 meters.[1][7] Its upper structure features a prominent rock fang, characterized by the steep Northeast Buttress and east face, which contribute to its distinctive profile visible from surrounding valleys.[8][6] The surrounding terrain includes rugged alpine slopes draining eastward via Slesse Creek into the Skagit River system and westward toward the Chilliwack River, influencing local watershed dynamics.[9] The mountain's position within the range provides broad visibility across the border region, with neighboring peaks such as Canadian Border Peak to the southwest.[9]Climate and Hydrology
Slesse Mountain lies within the temperate rainforest zone of British Columbia's Coast Mountains, characterized by a maritime climate with abundant moisture from Pacific weather systems. Annual precipitation in the adjacent Chilliwack Valley averages 1,667 mm, with the majority falling as rain between October and March, though orographic uplift on the mountain's slopes amplifies totals at higher elevations.[10] Winters feature persistent cloud cover and temperatures often hovering near freezing, fostering icing on routes and contributing to frequent low visibility from fog and valley stratus, which climbers report as common barriers even in summer.[2] Snow accumulation at mid- to upper elevations reaches several meters annually, driven by winter storms that can deposit heavy falls exceeding 20 cm in single events, heightening avalanche hazards in gullies and north-facing aspects.[11] These conditions render the mountain largely inaccessible during colder months without specialized equipment, while spring melt exacerbates runoff and instability. Avalanche forecasts for the Chilliwack region routinely highlight moderate to considerable risks in alpine terrain during accumulation periods.[12] Hydrologically, the mountain's drainage is dominated by Slesse Creek, which originates from glacial and snowmelt sources on its eastern flanks and flows southward into the Chilliwack River, augmenting the basin's watershed.[13] The creek's discharge, monitored at hydrometric station 08MH056, reflects seasonal peaks from rainfall and snowmelt, contributing to flood-prone dynamics in the Chilliwack system, where rapid runoff can elevate river levels significantly during atmospheric river events.[14] This supports downstream ecosystems but necessitates caution for valley travel during high-flow periods.[15]Geology
Formation and Composition
Slesse Mountain originated from igneous intrusive activity associated with the Chilliwack Batholith, part of the broader Pemberton Volcanic Belt, during the Oligocene epoch approximately 26 to 29 million years ago.[3][16] This plutonic formation involved the emplacement of magma that cooled and solidified underground, producing primarily granitic compositions including grey diorite prevalent across much of the mountain's structure.[2] The upper sections feature granitic rocks, while the flanks and summit ridge incorporate deformed igneous materials and metamorphic variants such as Darrington Phyllite on the west face, resulting from contact metamorphism induced by batholith intrusions.[2] These heterogeneous rock types, with their variable weathering resistance, contribute to geological instability, including frequent rockfall observed on climbing routes.[2] Pleistocene glaciation further modified the mountain's morphology through erosional processes, carving steep slopes, couloirs, and overhanging arches characteristic of alpine terrain in the Cascade Mountains.[17] Evidence includes glacial striations on exposed bedrock and moraines deposited by receding valley glaciers in the adjacent Chilliwack River valley, indicating repeated advances and retreats of the Cordilleran Ice Sheet during the Late Wisconsinan period.[18]Mineral Resources and Prospecting
The Slesse Creek area, encompassing drainages from the eastern slopes of Slesse Mountain in British Columbia, contains documented gold-bearing quartz veins and associated sulfide mineralization, including copper and silver, within the New Westminster Mining Division. Historical prospecting dates to the early 1900s, with showings such as the Slesse Creek occurrence on Canyon Creek, a southwest-flowing tributary, featuring quartz veins hosted in regional metamorphic rocks along fault contacts.[19][20] Anomalous gold dispersion in Slesse Creek sediments derives partly from the adjacent Boundary Red Mountain Mine in Washington state, south of the international border, which yielded 46,000 ounces of gold from 80,000 tons of ore milled between 1914 and 1946. Geochemical analysis of tributaries draining this mine reveals gold concentrations in heavy mineral concentrates ranging from 250 to 2330 parts per billion (ppb), far exceeding levels in unaffected Slesse Creek segments and indicating mechanical dispersion from upstream vein sources.[21][22] Recent exploration on the 1567-hectare Slesse Creek Property, optioned for prospecting, has focused on similar vein systems and intrusion-related targets. A 2023-2024 program identified the Torb Zone, a new showing less than 100 meters from historic adits, characterized by sulfide-bearing quartz veins; select rock samples assayed up to 14.10 grams per tonne gold and 3100 parts per million copper. Geological mapping highlights folding and thermal recrystallization effects from Tertiary igneous intrusions, enhancing fracture permeability and ore potential in the local Jurassic-Cretaceous volcanic and sedimentary host rocks.[20][23][20]Exploration and Climbing History
Early Exploration and Naming
The name Slesse derives from the Halq'eméylem word selísi, meaning "fang," reflecting the mountain's sharp, pointed profile as perceived by local Stó:lō peoples, including the Sts'ailes Nation.[24][25] This indigenous designation, rooted in oral traditions linking the peak to cultural landmarks and transformer stories, predates European contact, with the mountain regarded as a sacred site by First Nations communities in the region.[25] Archaeological and ethnographic records indicate limited evidence of intensive pre-colonial use, primarily for seasonal travel routes connecting Stó:lō villages along the Chilliwack and Harrison Rivers, though no permanent settlements or extensive artifact concentrations have been documented at higher elevations due to the rugged terrain.[26] European settlers adopted the name Slesse for the mountain and adjacent Slesse Creek in the late 19th century, borrowing directly from indigenous terminology during initial mapping of the Chilliwack Valley.[24] As early as 1848, Hudson's Bay Company explorers assessed the Chilliwack River Valley, including tributaries like Slesse Creek, for potential overland routes to the interior, noting the area's challenging alpine barriers but strategic position amid forested lowlands.[26] By the early 1900s, prospectors drawn by placer gold deposits in Slesse Creek intensified access via the valley, conducting rudimentary surveys that highlighted the mountain's 2,577-meter prominence as a dominant skyline feature, yet its steep, glaciated approaches rendered it elusive for non-technical reconnaissance.[22] In the 1920s, amateur mountaineers and surveyors from nearby Chilliwack began documenting the peak's contours during regional outings, establishing informal trails from the valley floor and recognizing its potential for ascent amid growing interest in British Columbia's Cascade Range.[26] These efforts, often tied to mining claims and topographic sketches, underscored the mountain's isolation—flanked by dense forests, crevassed névés, and sheer faces—but laid groundwork for organized climbing without achieving the summit, as logistical hurdles like unpredictable weather and limited equipment prevailed.[27]Notable Ascents and Routes
The first recorded ascent of Slesse Mountain took place on August 10, 1927, via the southwest route approaching from Slesse Creek, accomplished by Stan Henderson, Mills Winram, and Fred Parkes.[2] This route involved bushwhacking and scrambling through forested terrain to gain the upper slopes, marking the initial documented summit of the peak's 2,409-meter (7,903-foot) summit.[2] A significant technical milestone came with the first ascent of the Northeast Buttress on August 26–28, 1963, by Fred Beckey, Steve Marts, and Eric Bjornstad.[28] Rated Grade V and 5.9–5.10a, this 2,500-foot (760-meter) alpine rock route follows a prominent arête on the mountain's northeast aspect, featuring sustained crack systems, dihedrals, and exposed traverses requiring pitons, ropes, and multi-day bivouacs; it has since been recognized as one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America for its aesthetic line and committing nature.[29] The same team completed the first ascent of the north face during this expedition, navigating vertical and overhanging granite sections with aid techniques over three days.[30] The East Face saw its first ascent in July 1997 by Sean Easton and Dave Edgar, who employed a combination of aid and free climbing on the 1,000-meter (3,280-foot) granite wall, addressing long-sought overhangs and blank sections with mixed techniques.[31] This route, among the hardest big walls in the North Cascades at the time, remained unrepeated for nearly two decades until 2017, when Tony McLane and Jacob Cook achieved the second overall ascent and first free ascent via a six-pitch variation, upgrading difficulties to 5.12+ and highlighting advancements in free climbing ethics on Slesse's steep faces.[32] In 2015, Colin Haley and Dylan Johnson established the Heart of Darkness, a new line between the Northeast Buttress and North Rib, blending steep ice, mixed terrain, and a culminating rock face directly to the summit; rated as a major addition for its aesthetic dihedral systems and technical demands.[33] Subsequent winter ascents, such as the first winter Navigator Wall in 2012 by Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted (700 meters, 6b M7+ R), have further expanded Slesse's repertoire, emphasizing the peak's year-round challenges on its north and east aspects.[34]1956 Aviation Disaster
Crash Circumstances
Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810-9 departed Vancouver International Airport on December 9, 1956, at approximately 18:03 local time, operating a scheduled service to Toronto with an intermediate stop in Calgary.[4] The aircraft was a Canadair C-4M2 North Star four-engine piston airliner, registration CF-TFD, carrying 59 passengers and 3 crew members, for a total of 62 people on board.[35] Among the passengers were five professional Canadian Football League players returning from the annual East-West All-Star Game in Vancouver, including Melvin Becket, Mario DeMarco, Gordon Sturtridge, and Ray Syrnyk of the Saskatchewan Roughriders, as well as another league player.[36] The flight proceeded eastward over the Cascade Mountains, with a planned cruising altitude of 19,000 feet.[35] At around 19:10 hours, the aircraft reported passing Hope, British Columbia, and requested clearance to descend to 10,000 feet while navigating through reported severe weather conditions in the region.[4] The last radio contact occurred shortly thereafter, with the flight indicating an altitude just above 15,000 feet.[37] The aircraft impacted the southwestern slopes of Slesse Mountain, near Chilliwack, British Columbia, at an elevation of approximately 2,900 meters (9,500 feet).[38] The high-speed collision resulted in the aircraft breaking apart, with wreckage scattered across the steep terrain.[4] All 62 occupants perished in the crash.[36]Investigation and Causation
The official investigation into the crash of Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810 was conducted by Canada's Department of Transport, with findings published in report serial number 56-16 in 1957. Analysis of the wreckage, recovered from the 6,500-foot elevation on Mount Slesse's northeast face, indicated the Canadair North Star CF-TFD struck the terrain in a controlled descent with wings level and nose up, consistent with a stall recovery attempt or spatial disorientation amid instrument flight conditions. No pre-impact fire, explosion, or structural failure was evident; the No. 2 engine (inboard left) was feathered per shutdown procedure following the crew's 18:52 radio report of fire, but post-mortem examination attributed this to possible carburetor icing rather than a primary causal defect.[35][37] The primary cause was determined to be severe rime and clear icing accumulation on the wings, control surfaces, propellers, and fuselage—exacerbated by moderate to severe turbulence in the mountainous terrain—resulting in degraded aerodynamic performance, asymmetric lift, and eventual loss of control. Meteorological data from nearby stations and pilot reports confirmed icing levels exceeding the aircraft's pneumatic rubber-boot de-icing system's capacity, with accumulations up to 2 inches on leading edges observed in similar regional flights that evening; turbulence from orographic lift over the Cascade Mountains contributed to airframe buffet and control difficulties. The North Star's Merlin engines and airframe showed overload stresses post-icing but no inherent mechanical vulnerabilities beyond weather exposure.[35][37][38] Contributing factors included the crew's operation in forecast marginal visibility (under 5 miles with clouds to 10,000 feet) along the prescribed airway, where icing was known but not fully evaded despite earlier reports of moderate icing at 18:43; however, the report emphasized causal primacy of the unforecast severity of icing over pilot discretion, finding no evidence of navigational error or inadequate air traffic control guidance—the final position report at 18:51 placed the aircraft correctly near the crash site via radio triangulation. Absence of a flight data recorder limited precise altitude and attitude reconstruction, relying instead on empirical wreckage distribution (debris span of 200 feet) and weather reconstructions, which ruled out sabotage or human factors like fatigue as decisive. Debates in aviation circles post-report focused on route selection amid winter Pacific Northwest icing risks, but official conclusions upheld weather-induced overload without assigning blame for procedural lapses.[35][38][37]Recovery Efforts and Memorialization
The wreckage of Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810 was not located until May 12, 1957, when mountaineers discovered debris while climbing Mount Slesse, approximately five months after the December 9, 1956 crash.[4][39] Harsh winter weather and the remote, steep terrain at over 5,000 feet elevation delayed access, limiting initial recovery operations to ground teams navigating challenging conditions.[40] Recovery efforts retrieved identifiable remains and select artifacts, but the site's inaccessibility prevented comprehensive removal of the aircraft or all human remains, with much wreckage and bodies left in situ due to logistical difficulties.[36][41] During the coroner's inquiry, unidentified body parts were interred in two common graves on the mountainside.[42] Memorialization includes preservation of the crash site as a tribute, with the remaining wreckage serving as a de facto monument to the 62 victims.[41] A propeller from the aircraft, propped against rocks in a cairn, stands as a prominent artifact encountered by visitors, symbolizing the disaster's enduring impact.[43][44] In later decades, the Mount Slesse Memorial Trail was developed to provide access to a commemorative plaque and the propeller site, honoring the victims without political connotation.[45] Climbers and hikers periodically report ongoing discoveries of scattered debris, highlighting the site's rugged preservation and restricted accessibility, which has deterred extensive disturbance.[36]Recreation and Conservation
Hiking and Memorial Trail
The Mount Slesse Memorial Trail offers primary access for non-technical visitors to the remnants of the 1956 Trans-Canada Airlines Flight 810 crash site, combining commemoration of the tragedy with exposure to the rugged alpine terrain of the Skagit Range. This out-and-back route spans approximately 13 kilometers round-trip, ascending 920 to 1,000 meters from the trailhead near 600 meters elevation to reach key memorial points at around 1,100 to 1,500 meters, demanding intermediate to advanced fitness levels with an average completion time of 5 to 8 hours for fit hikers.[46][47][48] The trail features a prominent memorial plaque installed to honor the 62 victims of the crash, positioned midway with panoramic views toward Slesse Mountain's northeast face, followed by a steeper climb through forested switchbacks and scree to the propeller cairn, where preserved aircraft debris including a Northrop engine propeller serves as a tangible historical marker.[46][49][40] Maintenance falls under Recreation Sites and Trails BC, which oversees log bridges, signage, and erosion control to sustain hiker access while minimizing disturbance to the fragile crash site ecology and artifacts, supplemented by periodic volunteer work parties from local outdoor groups.[45][50] Hiking is safest from July to October, as lingering snowpack into June can obscure the path and heighten avalanche risk on upper slopes, while summer melt periods may trigger icefalls or unstable snow shelves, per consistent user reports emphasizing the need for microspikes, trekking poles, and awareness of variable weather even in peak season.[46][51][48]Contemporary Climbing Activities
The Northeast Buttress, a Grade V 5.9-10a alpine rock climb spanning approximately 2,500 feet over 25 pitches, remains a popular advanced objective for experienced mountaineers, with recent reports indicating sustained rock quality but potential early-season snow on adjacent features like the pocket glacier.[8][52] As of July 2025, the route required assessment for glacier hazards, though by mid-August, only minor snow patches lingered at bivy sites amid warm conditions.[53][54] Similarly, the Crack of Noon Club route (5.7, 10 pitches) on the east side has seen frequent ascents, reported in excellent condition during summer 2025 with snow-free rock but variable approach snow, facilitating its dual use as a climbing and descent line via bolted rappels.[55][56][53] Modern equipment, including helmets and improved protection placements, has mitigated some historical fall risks on these routes, yet climber logs consistently highlight rockfall from loose granite and sudden weather shifts—such as afternoon storms—as dominant objective hazards, independent of gear advancements.[57][58] The Chilliwack River Valley serves as the primary base for multi-day efforts, offering road access and logistical support for teams staging from Chilliwack Lake trailheads, though heavy usage necessitates early starts to avoid congestion.[58] Descent efficiency is enhanced by options like the Slesse Mountain Trail from the summit, involving steep bushwhacking and 4,500 feet of elevation loss over several hours, or the quicker Crossover route leveraging Crack of Noon rappels to subalpine sites.[29][2] Avalanche risks persist even in summer, with observations of glacier slides near the Northeast Buttress underscoring the need for terrain assessment below hanging ice.[59]Environmental Management and Mining Impacts
Slesse Mountain and its vicinity fall under protections established by the British Columbia Heritage Conservation Act, primarily to preserve aviation crash remnants from 1956, which has effectively limited large-scale development such as clearcut logging that threatened the area in the 1990s.[2] Legislation enacted following advocacy by the Families of Slesse organization enshrined site safeguards, designating the zone as a protected heritage area that restricts extractive activities and infrastructure expansion to maintain ecological integrity alongside historical artifacts.[60] Trail management protocols in the region emphasize erosion control measures, including regulated access and maintenance practices to prevent soil disturbance near crash debris concentrations on slopes. These include directional signage, seasonal closures during high precipitation to curb runoff acceleration, and vegetation buffering along paths, aligning with broader British Columbia guidelines for minimizing sediment mobilization in sensitive alpine terrains.[61][62] Prospecting activities in Slesse Creek, part of a 1,567-hectare property held by exploration firms, resumed in recent years with assessments identifying gold-bearing quartz veins and sulphide mineralization zones historically noted since 1929 adits. In 2024, Kermode Resources conducted prospecting that revealed visible gold via XRF analysis on March 6, confirming low-grade but anomalous concentrations without advancing to mechanized extraction, thereby limiting immediate habitat fragmentation.[20][63][64] Operations remain exploratory and hand-scale, with environmental assessments indicating negligible disruption to riparian zones per regulatory filings.[65] Glacial retreat on Slesse Mountain, influenced by regional Cascade trends with approximately 56% ice loss since the mid-20th century, has been monitored through geological surveys noting reduced meltwater contributions to local hydrology. Mineralization in drainage areas, including trace copper and silver sulphides, prompts ongoing water quality sampling for pH and metal leaching, though data show baseline elevations without acute exceedances tied to current low-intensity activities.[17][66][22]References
- https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q7540144