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Yamate

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Yamate

Yamate (山手) is the name of a historic neighbourhood in Naka-ku, Yokohama often referred to in English as The Bluff. The neighbourhood is famous as having been a foreigners' residential area in the Bakumatsu, Meiji and Taishō periods. While still dominantly residential in character, with views over downtown Yokohama, historic residential properties, ornamental gardens and public parks, the area is also a popular visitor destination.

When the Port of Yokohama first opened to foreign trade under the terms of the Treaty of Amity and Commerce in 1859, the foreigner's settlement was initially confined to a low-lying area known as Kannai. As commercial activity in the Kannai settlement rapidly outgrew the available space, construction on the elevated Yamate Bluff started in 1862. Initially a residential area for the foreign diplomatic community, one of the first structures to be built on the Bluff was the residence of the British Consul-General, Sir Rutherford Alcock.

From 1862 until 1875, British diplomatic and commercial interests were protected by a troop garrison stationed at Yamate at the crest of the hill overlooking the harbour, a location that now serves as Harbour View Park. After a series of attacks on the British legation at Yedo a military guard for British diplomats stationed at Yokohama was first established in 1860. In 1861 this small detachment was supplemented by Royal Marines from HMS Renard. Much larger numbers of troops of the 20th (East Devonshire) Regiment of the Foot arrived on troopship HMS Vulcan in January 1864, together with two companies of the 2nd Baloochees from the Bombay Native Infantry. A Royal Marine battalion arrived on 25 May 1864, aboard HMS Conqueror, bringing garrison troop numbers in that year to 1,700. In subsequent years these units were replaced by members of the 9th (East Norfolk),11th, 67th and the 10th (North Lincoln) Regiment of Foot.

Contemporary maps produced in 1864 indicate that officer and troop accommodation, a naval hospital, stores facilities and a large parade ground stretched from the modern park area overlooking the harbour as far as the current location of Christ Church, Yokohama. Team sports, notably cricket and rugby union, were introduced to Japan for the first time on the parade ground by British service personnel.

Conditions in the camp varied greatly; while the wooden huts of the 20th regiment afforded greater protection from the vagaries of the weather, bell tents assigned to the Marine Battalion provided little protection against the torrential rain and humidity of the Yokohama summer. Detailed Royal Navy medical records of the period reported frequent smallpox outbreaks among the troops and that a dysentery epidemic shortly after the arrival of the Marine Battalion in the summer of 1864 claimed the lives of 11 men.

During the same period the French diplomatic mission also had a smaller detachment of troops located at a site adjacent to its own consular property. A French military hospital was also established at the foot of the Yamate hill.

Over succeeding years during the Meiji era, many senior officers of the Kannai trading companies, oyatoi gaikokujin and the diplomatic representatives of other trading nations established homes in the neighbourhood.

Although many of the original foreign resident's accommodation and civic buildings were destroyed in the Great Kantō earthquake, a number of older Meiji and Taishō Period properties have been preserved and relocated to this neighbourhood. The buildings and their ornamental gardens are open to the public free of charge and serve as popular tourist attractions, many featuring tea rooms, art and seasonal ikebana exhibits. Current properties from the Meiji, Taishō and early Showa periods open to visitors include:

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