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Belaying
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In climbing and mountaineering, belaying comprises techniques used to create friction within a climbing protection system, particularly on a climbing rope, so that a falling climber does not fall very far.[1] A climbing partner typically applies tension at the other end of the rope whenever the climber is not moving, and removes the tension from the rope whenever the climber needs more rope to continue climbing. The belay is the place where the belayer is anchored, which is typically on the ground, or on ledge (where it is also called a belay station) but may also be a hanging belay where the belayer themself is suspended from an anchor in the rock on a multi-pitch climb.
Description
[edit]Belaying is a critical part of climbing safety. Correct belaying methods allow a belayer to hold the entire weight of the climber with relatively little force and easily arrest falls.
In its simplest form, a belay consists of a rope that runs from a climber to another person (the belayer) who can stop the climber's fall. In the modern day, most climbers use a variety of gear to belay, notably harnesses and belay devices. Thus, in a typical modern climbing setup, one end of the rope is fixed to the harness of the climber, most often by a figure-eight knot. The rope then passes through some form of climbing protection. Protection may come in the form of fixed protection, such as permanent pitons or bolts, or in the form of removable protection, such as nuts, hexes, and spring-loaded camming devices.

The other end of the rope is attached to the belayer, who remains lower than the climber. The belayer wears a harness to which a belay device is attached. The belay device acts as a friction brake, and allows the belayer to easily vary the amount of friction on the rope by altering the rope's position. In one position, the rope runs freely through the belay device. In another position, it can be held without the rope sliding through the device because of the friction on the rope. This is called "locking off" the rope.

While the rope is locked off, the climber's fall should be arrested and they will be left suspended, but safe, somewhere below the last piece of protection. Generally, the climber will not fall any farther than the length between them and their last piece of protection, plus the length of the rope between them and their last piece of protection, plus the length of any slack in the system and extra length from the stretching of the rope under load. That is, if a climber climbs three feet higher than the last piece of protection in the rock, and then falls, the climber will fall at least six feet in total: three to the protection, and three below that, and then an extra distance for the extra rope. A dynamic rope is usually used so that the climber is not brought to a sudden jarring stop.
After a climber falls, the belayer can gently lower the climber to a safe point where climbing can be resumed. When a climber is finished climbing, belayers can lower climbers to the ground safely.
Belayer responsibilities
[edit]
The belayer should keep the rope locked off in the belay device whenever the climber is not moving. As the climber moves on the climb, the belayer must make sure that the climber has the right amount of rope by paying out or pulling in excess rope. If the climber falls, they free-fall the distance of the slack or unprotected rope before the friction applied by the belayer starts to slow their descent. Too much slack on the rope increases the distance of a possible fall, but too little slack on the rope may cause the climber to "whip" or swing into the rock at a high velocity, possibly injuring themselves. It is important for the belayer to closely monitor the climber's situation, as the belayer's role is crucial to the climber's safety.
When belaying on overhanging bolted routes, particularly indoors, belayers often stand well back from the rock so that they can watch the climber more easily. However, when belaying a lead climber who is using traditional protection, this can be very dangerous. The belayer should stand near to the bottom of the route in order to decrease the angle of the rope through the first piece of protection. This, in turn, decreases the force pulling it up and out of the rock if the leader falls. Standing too far away from the rock can result in protection unzipping, with the lowest piece being pulled away from the rock, followed by the next, until all of the protection may potentially be pulled out.[2] Standing too far away from the bottom of the climb also means that if the leader falls, the belayer experiences a sudden pull inwards towards the rock and may be pulled off their feet or into the rock.
Communication
[edit]Communication is also extremely important in belaying. Climbers should wait for verbal confirmation from the belayer that they are ready to begin.
US terminology
[edit]A climber is said to be "on belay" when they are correctly attached to the rope and the rope is correctly attached to the belayer by an appropriate belay method. Commonly-used commands in US climbing communities are:[3]
| "On belay?" | Asked by the climber to confirm if the belayer is ready. |
| "Belay on." | Said by the belayer to confirm that the belayer is ready and that the climber is on belay. |
| "Climbing." | Said by the climber to indicate they are starting their climb. |
| "Climb on." | Said by the belayer to acknowledge the climber is starting their climb. |
| "Off belay." | Said by the climber to indicate they are safe, either on the ground or attached to an anchor, and do not need to be on belay. |
| "Belay off." | Said by the belayer to indicate the climber is no longer on belay. |
| "Take." | Said by the climber to tell the belayer to remove the slack from the rope, and warn that the climber is going to put weight on the rope. |
| "Got you." | Said by the belayer to confirm that the slack has been removed from the rope and they are ready for the climber's weight. |
| "Give me slack."/"Slack." | Said by the climber to request more slack (less tension) in the rope. |
| "Lower me."/"Lower." | Said by the climber to indicate that they are finished with their climb and would like the belayer to lower them to the ground. |
| "Lowering." | Said by the belayer to confirm that they will lower the climber. |
| "Watch me." | Said by the climber to request special attention from the belayer and indicate they may fall. |
| "Falling!" | Said by the climber when falling. |
| "Rock!" | Said by anybody when they see a falling rock. It is best practice that everyone in the climbing area repeat this when they hear it. |
At times, it may be impossible for climbing partners to hear one another, as in bad weather, by the sea, or near a busy road. Silent belay communication is possible by tugging the rope. These are not standardized and should be communicated between the belayer and the climber prior to the climb. Walkie-talkies can be used in areas where communication is limited.
UK terminology
[edit]When the climber is tied onto the rope and is ready to climb "Ready to climb"
When the belayer has attached the rope to the belay device and is ready to belay "Climb when ready" (or in recent years, "On belay" or "Belay ready")
When the climber is about to start climbing, "Climbing"
When the belayer is belaying, "OK"
When the slack rope is taken in by the belayer and it becomes tight and therefore the belayer doesn't need to take the rope in any more the climber says "That's me"
During the climb, the climber may ask the belayer for "Slack", or to take in the rope "Take in" (the command "Take in slack" is never used as it could be misinterpreted)
If the climber is about to fall and needs the belayer to know & take in the rope, they may say "Tight" for a tight rope or "Take In" to take the rope in.
When the climber is in a safe position independent of the belay "Safe" or "I'm safe".
When the belayer has taken the climber off the belay "Off belay"
Warning shouts for falling objects, "Rope!"; when throwing a rope off the edge "Rock!"; when a rock has been dislodged and is falling.
Anchoring
[edit]
When top rope belaying for a significantly heavier partner, it is sometimes recommended that the belayer anchor themselves to the ground. The anchor point does not prevent a fall, but prevents the belayer from being pulled upwards during a fall.[4] This is normally not used when lead belaying.[5]
To set up this anchor the belayer should place a piece of directional protection (i.e., a nut or cam) into a crack below their body, or tie themselves by the belay loop to a rock or tree. The anchor arrests any upward force produced during a fall thus preventing the belayer from "taking off". Unlike belays set up at the top of a climb, it is not usually necessary for belayers at the bottom to have more than one point of protection as long as the single piece is sturdy and safe – "bomber" in climber jargon.
Hanging belay
[edit]During multipitch climbs it is sometimes necessary to belay while sitting in a harness and anchored to the wall. In this case rope management becomes more important, and the anchor is constructed in the traditional manner.[6]
Belay methods
[edit]Climbers now almost exclusively[citation needed] use a belay device to achieve controllable rope friction. Before the invention of these devices, climbers used other belay methods, which are still useful in emergencies.
The person climbing is said to be on belay when one of these belaying methods is used.
Belay devices
[edit]
A belay device is a piece of climbing equipment that improves belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage his or her duties with minimal physical effort. Belay devices are designed to allow a weak person to easily arrest a climber's fall with maximum control, while avoiding twisting, heating or severely bending the rope.
Self-belay
[edit]While the task of belaying is typically assigned to a companion who stays at the bottom, self-belaying is also possible as an advanced technical climbing technique.
Munter hitch / Italian hitch
[edit]A munter hitch is a belaying method that creates a friction brake by tying a special knot around an appropriate carabiner. This type of belay, however, causes the rope to become twisted. It can also be used on double ropes. Simply tie the munter hitch with both ropes as if they were one.
Body belay
[edit]
Before the invention of belay devices, belayers could add friction to the rope by wrapping it around their body; friction between rope and the belayer's body was used to arrest a fall. This is known as a body belay, a hip belay, or a waist belay and is still sometimes used when climbing quickly over easier ground. On vertical rock it is no longer used as it is less reliable and more apt to injure the belayer stopping a long fall.[7]
Australian belay
[edit]The Australian belay is used on many high ropes courses for supporting participants on vertical, as opposed to traversing, elements.[8] The Australian belay allows untrained participants to engage in the safety and support of their fellow participants on an element, and allows a single facilitator to oversee an element with multiple individuals participating. The Australian belay does not use a traditional belay device, but rather ties two or more people into loops on the working end of the rope as a belay team, who walk backward as the participant ascends the element, taking up slack as they go. Additional participants can be tied into the loops or left free to help hold clipped in members of the belay team in place. The Australian belay requires a clear runway back from the element almost double the height of the element in order to allow the belay team to support climbers all the way to the top.
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ A Glossary of Climbing Terms
- ^ Staying Alive: Some tips for Single Pitch Climbing
- ^ Linxweiler, Eric; Maude, Mike, eds. (2017). "Chapter 10: Belaying". Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (9th ed.). Seattle, Washington: Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-1-68051-005-8.
- ^ Dave Sheldon (15 June 2012). "Learn This: Belaying A Heavier Climber". Climbing.com.
- ^ Kitty Calhoun (27 October 2016). "Belaying an XL – Tips for Lightweight Climbers". Rock and Ice.
- ^ "How to Maximize Comfort at Hanging Belays". Climbing.com. 24 March 2016.
- ^ "How to Hip Belay". Climbing.com. 28 June 2013. Retrieved 26 May 2018.
- ^ "About the Australian Belay". Project Adventure. Retrieved 2 April 2016.
Belaying
View on GrokipediaOverview
Definition and Purpose
Belaying is the technique by which a stationary belayer secures a moving climber using a rope, primarily to arrest falls through controlled friction within the climbing protection system.[6] This process involves the belayer managing rope tension to allow the climber's upward progress while ensuring immediate response to any downward movement, thereby providing dynamic protection.[1] The core purpose of belaying is to prevent or minimize injury from falls by distributing the resulting forces across the rope, harness, belay device, and anchors, which absorb energy and limit the climber's descent distance.[7] This safety mechanism is fundamental across roped activities, including rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and high ropes courses, where it enables participants to navigate challenging terrain with reduced risk.[1][8] In its basic mechanics, the rope is routed from the climber's harness, through intermediate protection points or anchors, to the belayer, who uses a friction-based device to control slack payout during ascent and rapid take-in or locking during a fall.[7] The belayer maintains constant brake-hand contact with the rope, leveraging the system's elasticity and friction to dissipate fall energy without excessive force on any single component.[1] This setup ensures the belayer can both facilitate smooth climbing and provide reliable arrest, with rope slippage and dynamic loading key to energy absorption.[6] Belaying contexts vary by scenario, such as top-rope setups where the belayer operates from below with the rope doubled through an overhead anchor for inherent redundancy, lead belaying where the climber clips the rope progressively into protection while the belayer feeds slack to avoid drag, and multi-pitch applications on extended routes requiring coordinated belays at intermediate stances.[1] In each, the belayer's role adapts to the terrain and fall potential, ensuring protection aligns with the activity's demands in rock, ice, or alpine environments.[6]Historical Development
Belaying techniques originated in the 19th-century European mountaineering scene, particularly within the tradition of Alpinism in the Alps, where climbers relied on rudimentary methods to protect against falls during ascents of steep terrain.[9] The earliest practices involved hand-over-hand belaying, in which the belayer gripped the rope directly to manage friction and arrest the climber's progress, often using the body's weight and clothing for additional control without specialized equipment.[1][3] These body-friction techniques emerged as mountaineers pushed boundaries on challenging routes, marking the foundational shift from unroped soloing to partnered protection systems that prioritized safety amid increasing route difficulties.[1] In the early 20th century, belaying evolved with the introduction of more structured body belays, such as the hip belay, which gained prominence in the 1930s as climbers in regions like the Sierra Nevada adopted it for its improved force distribution through the belayer's hips and harness-like waist loops.[10] The post-World War II era saw significant advancements driven by fatal accidents, including the 1957 Eiger North Face tragedy, which involved multiple deaths amid severe weather and falls, and highlighted the challenges of rescue and overall safety on extreme routes.[11] This incident, involving a multinational team and the first successful high-altitude rescue on the face, influenced broader safety protocols in mountaineering.[11] Concurrently, the development of dynamic ropes in the 1950s and formalized in 1964 by manufacturers like Edelrid and Mammut addressed the limitations of static ropes by incorporating stretch to absorb impact forces, reducing injury risk during leader falls.[12] The late 20th century brought mechanical innovations, beginning with Fritz Sticht's invention of the Sticht plate in 1969, the first dedicated friction belay device that clipped to a carabiner for controlled rope handling without relying solely on the body.[13] By the 1970s, the figure-eight follow-through knot, originally developed in 1943 for rappelling, became widely adopted as the standard tie-in method due to its reliability, ease of inspection, and strength in dynamic loading.[14] The Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) played a pivotal role in standardization, initiating rope testing in 1960 and expanding to equipment norms that ensured compatibility and safety across belaying systems.[15] In 1991, Petzl introduced the GriGri, the first assisted-braking belay device with a cam mechanism that automatically locks the rope under load, revolutionizing belaying by enhancing ease and security for both indoor and outdoor climbing.[16] This progression from body-dependent methods to engineered devices reflected a broader commitment to mitigating risks while enabling bolder ascents.Equipment
Essential Components
Harnesses form the foundational attachment point between the climber and the rope in belaying systems, designed to securely support the body during ascents and arrest falls by distributing forces across the pelvis, thighs, and waist. The most common type for rock climbing is the sit harness, classified as EN 12277 Type C under European standards and compliant with UIAA 105, featuring a waist belt and leg loops that allow freedom of movement while preventing inversion in a fall.[17][18][15] In contrast, full-body harnesses (EN 12277 Type A) encircle the torso, shoulders, and legs, providing enhanced stability for activities like caving where awkward body positions and single-rope techniques demand comprehensive support to avoid slippage.[18][19] All climbing harnesses must meet UIAA 105 and CE/EN 12277 certifications, which mandate strength testing including a minimum 15 kN load on the belay loop to simulate fall forces without failure, ensuring reliability under dynamic loads.[15][20] Proper fitting is critical, with the waistbelt positioned low on the hips (about two inches below the iliac crest) and leg loops snug but not restrictive, to evenly distribute arrest forces and minimize injury risk from concentrated pressure on soft tissues.[17][20] Belay devices are mechanical tools that create friction to control the rope during belaying, allowing the belayer to manage slack and arrest falls. Common types include tube-style devices (e.g., ATC), which route the rope through a U-shaped slot for manual braking; plate devices like the Sticht plate; and assisted-braking devices (e.g., GriGri), which use cam mechanisms to lock the rope automatically under load. These must comply with UIAA 129 or EN 15151 standards, ensuring they withstand at least 15 kN in the primary axis and provide consistent friction across rope diameters of 8.5–11 mm.[15][21] Carabiners serve as essential connectors in belaying, linking the rope, harness, and anchors while maintaining system integrity under tension. Non-locking carabiners, typically oval or D-shaped with straight or bent gates, offer quick clipping for quickdraws but require careful handling to avoid accidental opening. Locking variants provide added security: screw-gate models use a threaded sleeve for manual closure, while auto-locking types employ spring or ball-bearing mechanisms that require multiple actions (e.g., twist and pull) to open, reducing user error in high-stakes setups.[22][23] UIAA 121 and EN 12275 standards require all climbing carabiners to withstand at least 20 kN on the major axis (along the spine), 7 kN on the minor axis, and 7 kN with the gate open, verifying their capacity to hold falls without deformation.[24][15] Protection gear, used primarily in lead climbing, consists of devices placed into cracks to capture falls and redirect the rope, thereby limiting fall distance and impact on the belayer. Passive protection, such as nuts (chocks) and hexentrics, relies on wedging action without moving parts; nuts are tapered metal blocks that jam into tapering cracks, while hexes offer curved, hexagonal shapes for broader placements in irregular rock.[25][26] Active protection includes spring-loaded camming devices (cams or SLCDs), which expand via spring mechanisms to grip parallel-sided cracks through opposing cam lobes that rotate under load for secure hold. These devices, often adjustable across multiple sizes, enable faster placements in varied crack geometries compared to passive options.[25][26] Other essential components include helmets, which shield the head from falling rocks, ice, or overhead impacts during belayed ascents, meeting UIAA 106 and EN 12492 standards that limit peak force transmission from vertical and lateral impacts to 8 kN and 10 kN, respectively, without penetration.[15][27] Belaying gloves, padded with reinforced palms, protect hands from rope friction and abrasion, particularly in cold conditions where they insulate against hypothermia while maintaining grip for effective rope management.[28]Ropes and Knots
In belaying, ropes serve as the primary lifeline for arresting falls, with dynamic ropes being the standard choice due to their ability to elongate under load and absorb energy from a climber's fall. Dynamic ropes stretch approximately 30-40% during a dynamic load, reducing the force transmitted to the climber and belayer, in contrast to static ropes, which exhibit minimal elongation (under 5%) and are unsuitable for fall-arrest scenarios in lead climbing or top-roping. These ropes typically feature kernmantle construction, consisting of a core of parallel nylon strands (the "kern") that provide the primary strength and a braided sheath (the "mantle") that protects the core from abrasion and UV damage. Single dynamic ropes, the most common for belaying, have diameters ranging from 9.5 to 11 mm, balancing durability, handling, and weight for versatile use in sport, trad, and gym climbing.[29][29][30] UIAA standards mandate that dynamic single ropes withstand a minimum of five factor-1.77 falls (using an 80 kg mass dropped from 4.8 m) before failure, though many high-quality ropes achieve 8-12 or more such falls, with ratings up to 40 in extreme cases for specialized models. Standard lengths for belay ropes are 60 m or 70 m, sufficient for most single-pitch routes and allowing full lowering from typical sport climbs; longer 80 m options accommodate extended pitches or multi-pitch descents. Proper care is essential to maintain integrity: ropes should be inspected regularly for sheath damage, such as cuts, abrasions, or fuzzing, and retired after significant falls or exposure to chemicals. To prevent kinks that can cause uneven wear or snags during belaying, employ coiling methods like the butterfly coil, where the rope is stacked in loose figure-eight loops over the arms and secured without twisting, or the backpack coil for transport, ensuring even stacking to avoid supercoiling.[31][29][32] Essential knots in belaying ensure secure attachments and must be tied precisely to maximize safety. The figure-eight on a bight creates a fixed loop for tying into the harness, formed by folding the rope into a bight, tracing an "8" shape, and passing the end through the loop before dressing flat; it is favored for its inspectability and resistance to slippage under load. The clove hitch secures the rope to an anchor carabiner, tied by wrapping the rope twice around the carabiner and clipping through both loops, allowing quick adjustments while maintaining hold. For joining two ropes in rappels or extensions, the double fisherman's knot interlocks two overhand knots on each strand, pulled tight to form a secure connection with minimal bulk. A backup overhand knot, often used as a stopper or to secure tails, is a simple overhand tied with a doubled strand, ensuring ends cannot slip through devices.[33][33][33] Well-tied climbing knots typically retain 60-80% of the rope's tensile strength, with the figure-eight and double fisherman's often at the higher end when properly dressed to distribute loads evenly and prevent jamming during untieing. Dressing involves aligning strands parallel and seating the knot tightly, which enhances security and reduces weak points; undressed knots can reduce strength further and increase failure risk under dynamic forces.[34][35]Roles and Responsibilities
Belayer Duties
The belayer's primary responsibilities commence with the setup of the belay system, ensuring all components are correctly configured for safety. This involves threading the rope through the belay device, such as a tube or assisted-braking model, and securing it to the harness's belay loop using a locking carabiner oriented with the gate away from the rope.[7] A figure-eight stopper knot must be tied at the rope's free end to prevent accidental pull-through during a fall or lowering.[5] Prior to the climber's ascent, the belayer conducts thorough partner checks, verifying the climber's harness fit, knot security, device threading, and carabiner closure, while also confirming their own setup.[7] Rope management forms the core of the belayer's ongoing duties, requiring precise control to support the climber's movement while minimizing risk. As the climber progresses upward, the belayer pays out slack smoothly using techniques like PBUS (Pull-Brake-Under-Slide), allowing free but controlled ascent without excess rope that could increase fall distance.[5] Immediately after each move, slack is taken in promptly to eliminate elasticity and maintain minimal rope between the belayer and climber—typically just enough for comfort, around 1-2 meters in top-rope scenarios—to reduce potential fall impact.[7] The brake hand remains constantly on the rope in the downward position, never relinquishing control, to ensure immediate responsiveness.[5] Continuous monitoring is essential for the belayer to safeguard the climber throughout the activity. The belayer must watch the climber's hand and foot placements, progress along the route, and any gear interactions, such as quickdraw clips in lead climbing, to anticipate needs like additional slack or tension.[7] This vigilance extends to environmental hazards, enabling quick alerts via standard communication cues if issues arise. In critical situations, such as a prolonged hang or injury, the belayer may need to execute an escape from the belay to perform a rescue, transferring the load to an anchor while maintaining rope control.[5] When a fall occurs, the belayer's response prioritizes rapid arrest to prevent injury. Upon hearing the "Falling!" command or observing the drop, the belayer pulls the brake strand downward firmly into the device's maximum friction position, using both hands if necessary to lock the system.[7] To absorb the dynamic forces—generated by the climber's weight, rope stretch, and momentum—the belayer adopts a stable stance with feet shoulder-width apart, knees bent, and hips lowered, bracing against potential upward pull without being lifted off the ground.[5] This positioning, combined with the belay device's friction, ensures the fall is caught effectively while protecting the belayer from injury.[7]Climber Responsibilities
The climber plays a critical role in maintaining the safety and efficiency of the belay system by ensuring proper gear setup, clear communication, and coordinated movements that support the belayer's rope management.[5] This involves proactive actions to prevent errors that could compromise protection or lead to falls.[36] In gear handling, the climber must tie into the harness using a figure-eight follow-through knot, which is the standard method for securely attaching the rope to the belay loop, followed by a stopper knot to prevent slippage.[33] This knot ensures the connection can withstand dynamic loads during a fall.[5] In lead climbing, the climber is responsible for correctly clipping quickdraws into protection points such as bolts or gear placements, routing the rope from the brake strand side to the climber's side to avoid back-clipping, which could allow the carabiner gate to open under load and unclip the rope.[36] Similarly, z-clipping—grabbing the rope from below the previous quickdraw—must be avoided, as it introduces excessive slack, increases fall distance, and renders the lower protection ineffective; instead, the climber should always draw the rope from above the last clip using a stable body position.[37] Communication begins with the climber announcing readiness, typically by calling "Climbing!" after confirming the tie-in and system setup, prompting the belayer's "Climb on!" response to initiate the ascent.[38] During the climb, the climber calls for "Slack!" when additional rope is needed for movement or clipping, or "Tension!" to remove all slack ahead of dynamic sections, such as big moves where a fall is imminent, allowing the belayer to provide support without unexpected yanks on the rope that could disrupt braking.[38] To signal the end of the climb, the climber shouts "Off belay!" once securely anchored at the top, indicating the system can be terminated.[38] For descent, the climber prepares by informing the belayer with "Lower me!" or "Ready to lower!" after weighting the rope correctly—sitting back into the harness with legs extended to align the body parallel to the wall—ensuring a controlled lowering without twisting or swinging.[38] In lead scenarios, the climber removes protection on the way down only after confirming the belayer's readiness, maintaining tension to avoid sudden drops.[39]Communication
Standard Commands
Standard commands in belaying refer to the verbal protocols used by climbers and belayers to coordinate actions and maintain safety during ascents. These signals ensure clear communication, minimizing the risk of accidents caused by misinterpretation, such as unintended slack in the rope or premature removal from belay.[38] Organizations like the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) have standardized these commands to promote consistency across climbing practices.[40] The core commands in the United States, as outlined by the AMGA, form a structured set of exchanges.[40] They include:- On belay?: The climber asks the belayer if they are ready to manage the rope. The belayer responds with Belay on to confirm readiness.[7]
- Climbing?: The climber indicates intent to begin ascending. The belayer replies Climb on or Climb to grant permission.[38]
- Slack: The climber requests additional rope length to facilitate movement.[41]
- Up rope: The climber signals the belayer to remove slack by taking in rope.[40]
- Off belay: The climber announces the end of the belayed section, such as upon reaching an anchor. The belayer confirms with Belay off.[41]