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Lake Abert
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Lake Abert (also known as Abert Lake) is a large, shallow, alkali lake in Lake County, Oregon, United States. It is approximately 15 mi (24 km) long and 7 mi (11 km) wide at its widest point. It is located 3 mi (4.8 km) northeast of the small, unincorporated community of Valley Falls, Oregon. The lake was named in honor of Colonel John James Abert by explorer John C. Fremont during his 1843 expedition into Central Oregon. No fish live in the alkaline waters of the lake; however, its dense population of brine shrimp supports a variety of shorebirds. The lake is an important stop on the bird migration route known as the Pacific flyway.
Key Information
Ancient Lake Chewaucan
[edit]The arid land around Lake Abert was once lush. During the Pleistocene epoch, vast areas of south-central Oregon were covered by lakes and wetlands. As the last ice age was ending, rain and runoff from melting snow filled the lowlands throughout this region of the Great Basin, creating an immense freshwater lake called Lake Chewaucan. The lake covered 461 sq mi (1,190 km2) at depths of up to 375 ft (114 m).[1][2][3][4]

Lake Chewaucan covered the Abert and Summer Lake basins for most of the late Pleistocene epoch. The last high water period occurred about 13,000 years ago. There is no archaeological evidence of human utilization of Lake Chewaucan during this time. The earliest evidence for possible human occupation of the basin comes from the Paisley Caves, which were originally excavated by Luther Cressman in the late 1930s. Cressman found inconclusive evidence that humans could have begun an occupation of the area around 11,000 years ago.[5] Further excavations of the site by Dennis Jenkins since 2002 have yielded evidence of occupation of the area as far back as 14,300 years ago.[6]
Lake Chewaucan began to dry up at the close of the Pleistocene epoch. As it shrank, salts and alkali were concentrated in its remaining waters, and the result was the formation of Lake Abert and Summer Lake. Today, the two lakes are 20 mi (32 km) apart and are the only remnants of Lake Chewaucan.[7][8]
Lake environment
[edit]
Lake Abert is an endorheic body of water that occupies the eastern arm of pluvial Lake Chewaucan basin. The lake has an elongated triangular shape. It is approximately 15 mi (24 km) long and 1 mi (1.6 km) wide at the south end of the lake, growing to 7 mi (11 km) wide at the north end. In total, the lake covers approximately 57 sq mi (150 km2). Despite its size, the lake's maximum depth is only 11 ft (3.4 m). Its average depth is 7 ft (2.1 m).[1][8][9]
The east side of Lake Abert is bounded by Abert Rim, a steep escarpment that rises over 2,500 ft (760 m) above the lake surface. The lake is bordered on the west by a long ridge called Coglan Buttes and on the north by the Coleman Hills. The lake's only year-around source of fresh water comes from the Chewaucan River, which flows into the lake from the south.[1][8]
The Lake Abert drainage area covers 820 sq mi (2,100 km2). The environment in the Abert drainage basin is semi-arid. Most of the precipitation in the area occurs as snowfall during the winter months, and the Chewaucan River system is fed primarily by seasonal snowmelt. The lake's only other source of fresh water is summer thundershowers that produce a small amount of runoff from Abert Rim. Because the lake has no outlet, it has developed a high concentration of sodium carbonates, common salt, and alkali in its water. Crystallized mineral crusts on rocks along the lakeshore can be several inches thick. Some mineral deposits are evident on boulders 300 ft (91 m) above the present lake surface.[1][3][9]
Ecology
[edit]
Fish cannot survive in the lake because of the high salinity and alkali content; consequently, brine shrimp are abundant.[10] The lake provides an excellent habitat for various shore birds. It is one of Oregon's few inland nesting sites for snowy plovers. The lake is also a stop on the Pacific flyway for many migrant bird species. During the annual migrations, it hosts tens of thousands of eared grebes, Wilson's phalaropes, red-necked phalaropes, American avocets, killdeer, and northern shovelers. black terns, Forster's terns, American avocet, white-faced ibis, Clark's grebes, and black-necked stilts are common during the summer months. Canada geese, snow geese, Ross' geese and many duck species are also common. Bird counts have recorded over 20,000 ducks at the lake at one time. Over 12,000 ring-billed gulls and California gulls have been counted at the lake as well.[10][11][12][13] Sage grouse and burrowing owls are found near the lake, and bald eagles, ferruginous hawks, and peregrine falcons hunt in the Lake Abert area.[3][14][15]
History
[edit]
Lake Abert was home to a series of prehistoric cultures that left behind an array of archaeological sites along the east shore of the lake. Stone house rings that are numerous in the area are not found elsewhere on the Great Basin.[citation needed]
The first written record of the lake was made by John Work, the leader of a Hudson's Bay Company fur trapping expedition. Work recorded his party's visit in his journal on 16 October 1832. In his journal, Work called it Salt Lake. Work's journal also implies that other trappers may have been to the lake before his expedition.[16][17]
Lieutenant John C. Fremont named Lake Abert during his 1843 mapping expedition through central and southern Oregon. Fremont and his Army topographical team were mapping the Oregon Territory from The Dalles on the Columbia River to Sutter's Fort in the Sacramento Valley of California. Fremont named the lake in honor of Colonel John James Abert, who was chief of the Army's Corps of Topographical Engineers.[16][17][18] On 20 December 1843, Fremont described the discovery and naming of Lake Abert as follows:
[W]e turned a point of the hill on our left, and came suddenly in sight of another and much larger lake, which, along its eastern shore, was closely bordered by the high black ridge which walled it in by a precipitous face ... Spread out over a length of 20 miles, the lake, when we first came in view, presented a handsome sheet of water; and I gave to it the name Lake Abert, in honor of the chief of the corps to which I belong....[19]
In 1986, a wildfire burned 9,854 acres (39.88 km2) along the west side of the lake. After the fire, 800 acres (3.2 km2) along the shoreline were seeded with a Eurasian species, crested wheatgrass. The remaining acres were left to natural restoration.[14]
Human activity
[edit]Today, the Bureau of Land Management is responsible for Lake Abert and its surrounding land. There is one grazing allotment that borders the southwest shoreline of the lake, covering 6,886 acres (27.87 km2) of Bureau of Land Management land. The area is semi-arid with bluebunch wheatgrass, cheatgrass, and big sagebrush as the primary vegetation. A 1997 study showed that the grazing practices on the allotment conformed to Federal and state standards.[14]
Because of the lake's extreme alkalinity, there are no recreational activities that occur on the lake, although kayakers occasionally paddle on the lake. Swimming or extended contact with the lake's water would be harmful to humans. There are no developed campgrounds at Lake Abert, but the Bureau of Land Management does allow dispersed camping in the area. The only common recreational activity at Lake Abert is bird watching.[3][10]
A small brine shrimp collection enterprise on Lake Abert was begun in 1979. The brine shrimp's high tolerance for salinity and ability to withstand freezing temperatures during the winter make brine shrimp the lake's only residents. While the brine shrimp harvest from the lake is relatively small, the impact of harvest has never been studied.[10][11][12][20]
Location
[edit]Lake Abert is located in Lake County in south-central Oregon. The lake is 30 mi (48 km) north of Lakeview, Oregon, on U.S. Route 395. The highway runs along the east shore of the lake for approximately 18 mi (29 km). There are several interpretive signs at highway turn-offs overlooking the lake. Lake Abert is approximately 130 mi (210 km) southwest of Burns, Oregon, also on Highway 395.[3][8][13]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ a b c d Deike, Ruth G. and Blair F. Jones, "Provenance, Distribution and Alteration of Volcanic Sediments in a Saline Alkaline Lake", Developments of Sedimentology, vol. 28: Hypersaline Brines and Evaporitic Environments (A. Nissenbaum, editor), Elsevier Scientific Publishing Company, Amsterdam, the Netherlands (distributed in the United States and Canada by Elsevier/North-Holland, Inc of New York), 1980.
- ^ Licciardi, Joseph M. (2001). "Chronology of latest Pleistocene lake-level fluctuations in the pluvial Lake Chewaucan basin, Oregon, USA" (PDF). Journal of Quaternary Science. 16 (6): 545–553. Bibcode:2001JQS....16..545L. doi:10.1002/jqs.619. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2012-09-04. Retrieved 2022-01-19.
- ^ a b c d e Bowker, Kimberly, "Salt of the Earth - At Lake Abert, beauty never smelled so bad" Archived 2016-06-01 at the Wayback Machine, The Bulletin, Bend, Oregon, 31 December 2009.
- ^ "Ancient Lakes", Oregon Historical Marker, Summer Lake, Oregon.
- ^ Jerrems, Jerry, "An Archaeological View of Summer Lake Valley, Oregon" Archived 2008-07-04 at the Wayback Machine, Sundance Archeological Research Fund, University of Nevada, Reno, Reno Nevada, 27 April 2007.
- ^ Jenkins / Willerslev et al. "Clovis Age Western Stemmed Projectile Points and Human Coprolites at the Paisley Caves Archived 2016-02-01 at the Wayback Machine", Science, 13 July 2012.
- ^ "Pluvial Lakes: Oregon’s inland seas" Archived 2010-01-04 at the Wayback Machine, Oregon: A Geologic History, Oregon Department of Geology and Mineral Industries, Portland, Oregon, 9 February 2010.
- ^ a b c d Oregon topographic map Archived 2012-03-20 at the Wayback Machine, United States Geological Survey, United States Department of Interior, Reston, Virginia; displayed via ACME mapper, www.acme.com, 9 February 2010.
- ^ a b "Abert Lake" Archived 2011-07-22 at the Wayback Machine, World Lakes Database, International Lake Environment Committee Foundation, Shiga, Japan, 1999.
- ^ a b c d Cain, Eric (producer), "Abert Lake" Archived 2013-07-23 at the Wayback Machine, Oregon Field Guide video (Episode 405), Oregon Public Broadcasting, Portland, Oregon, 1993.
- ^ a b Conte, Frank P. and Paul A. Conte, "Abundance and spatial distribution of Artemia salina in Lake Abert, Oregon", Hydrobiologia (Volume 158, Number 1), Springer Netherlands, New York, New York, January 1988, pp167-172.
- ^ a b "Lake Abert" Archived 2009-07-04 at the Wayback Machine, Audubon Society of Portland, Portland, Oregon, 10 February 2010.
- ^ a b "Lake Abert" Archived 2016-03-04 at the Wayback Machine, Basin and Range Birding Trail, Bureau of Land Management in cooperation with the Modoc National Wildlife Refuge and the Lake County Chamber of Commerce, Alturas, California, 10 February 2010.
- ^ a b c "Rangeland Health Assessment West Lake #424" Archived 2009-01-16 at the Wayback Machine, Lakeview District, Bureau of Land Management, United States Department of Interior, Lakeview, Oregon, 12 August 1997.
- ^ "Abert Rim" Archived 2010-03-29 at the Wayback Machine, Sights to See in Oregon's Outback, OregonsOutback.com, Lakeview, Oregon, 10 February 2010.
- ^ a b McArthur, Lewis A. and Lewis L. McArthur, "Lake Abert", Oregon Geographic Names (Seventh Edition), Oregon Historical Society Press, Portland, Oregon, 2003, p. 552.
- ^ a b Brogan, Phil F., East of the Cascades (Third Edition), Binford & Mort, Portland, Oregon, 1965, p. 38.
- ^ Bach, Melva M., "John C. Fremont" Archived 2021-01-31 at the Wayback Machine, History of the Fremont National Forest, Fremont National Forest, United States Forest Service, United States Department of Agriculture, Lakeview, Oregon, 1981, pp. 5-9.
- ^ Fremont, J. C. (Brevet Captain of the Topographical Engineers), Narrative of the exploring expedition to the Rocky mountains in the year 1842, and to Oregon and North California in the years 1843-44, D. Appleton & Company, New York, New York, 1849, pp. 125-126.
- ^ "About our Company" Archived 2010-05-03 at the Wayback Machine, Oregon Desert Brine Shrimp, www.oregondesertbrineshrimp.com, Valley Falls, Oregon, 10 February 2010.
External links
[edit]- Lake Abert Archived 2013-07-23 at the Wayback Machine program on Oregon Field Guide
- Lake Abert Dries Up Video produced by Oregon Field Guide
- Shrinking Lake Abert Nasa earth observatory
- Lake Abert is in Deep Trouble Oregon Live
Lake Abert
View on GrokipediaGeography and Location
Location and Access
Lake Abert is located at approximately 42°38′30″N 120°13′30″W in Lake County, south-central Oregon, within the Great Basin physiographic province.[11] The lake lies about 30 miles north of the town of Lakeview and is bordered to the east by Abert Rim, a dramatic fault-block escarpment that rises more than 2,000 feet above the surrounding terrain. It forms part of Oregon's High Desert region, characterized by arid landscapes and basin-and-range topography.[1] Primary access to Lake Abert is provided by U.S. Route 395, a paved highway that parallels the eastern shore and features numerous pullouts for roadside viewing and parking. Unpaved roads, such as those designated by BLM route numbers like 6104-A0 and Big Basin Road, allow for more remote access along the western shore, though these are typically suitable only for high-clearance or four-wheel-drive vehicles and may become impassable after rain. There are no developed boat launches or public docks available on the lake.[12][1] Lake Abert occupies the Chewaucan Basin, an endorheic drainage system where precipitation and inflows remain contained without outflow to the Pacific Ocean or other external waterways. This closed-basin setting isolates the lake hydrologically from surrounding river systems.[4]Physical Dimensions
Lake Abert is a large, shallow endorheic lake in south-central Oregon, covering up to 64 square miles (166 km²) when full, which ranks it as the sixth-largest lake in the state.[13] Its surface area can vary significantly with precipitation and water inputs, but at maximum extent, it forms an elongated, roughly triangular basin.[13] The lake measures approximately 15 miles (24 km) in length from north to south and up to 7 miles (11 km) in width at its broadest point, creating a broad expanse bounded by the dramatic Abert Rim to the east.[14] With an average depth of about 12 feet (3.7 m) and a maximum depth reaching 15 feet (4.6 m) when full, the lake's shallow morphology results in a relatively small water volume of around 500,000 acre-feet (617 million m³) at peak levels.[3][13][14] Situated at an elevation of approximately 4,260 feet (1,300 m) above mean sea level when full, Lake Abert lies within a closed basin that accentuates its sensitivity to climatic variations.[13] The shoreline features broad, flat expanses with minimal vegetation, primarily consisting of exposed alkali flats and scattered rocky slopes that transition abruptly to the surrounding arid terrain.[6][15]Geological History
Ancient Lake Chewaucan
Lake Chewaucan formed during the Pleistocene epoch, specifically in the Late Pleistocene period spanning approximately 129,000 to 11,700 years ago, as a pluvial lake within the endorheic Chewaucan Basin of southeastern Oregon.[16] The basin's closed nature trapped precipitation and runoff, preventing outflow to the sea, while increased effective moisture from a cooler, wetter climate during the Last Glacial Maximum—driven by enhanced winter precipitation and possibly contributions from glacial melt in adjacent ranges—led to its filling beginning around 30,000 years ago.[16][17] The primary inflow was the Chewaucan River, which drained surrounding highlands and diverted through features like the Paisley fan, sustaining the lake's expansion.[18] At its peak extent around 20,000 to 17,000 years ago, with a notable highstand oscillation near 13,000 years ago, Lake Chewaucan covered approximately 480 square miles (1,244 km²), encompassing four sub-basins now occupied by modern features such as Summer Lake, Abert Lake, and the Chewaucan Marshes.[18] The lake reached depths of up to 375 feet (114 meters) at elevations around 1,378 meters, far exceeding the scale of its remnant lakes today and creating a vast freshwater body that dominated the regional paleogeography of the northwestern Great Basin.[20] This expansive system supported diverse freshwater ecosystems, including fish populations such as tui chub and salmonids, as evidenced by paleohydrologic records from faunal remains.[21] The lake began to decline after its highstand, receding significantly before approximately 15,940 years ago due to post-glacial warming, reduced precipitation, and increasing aridification that diminished inflows and heightened evaporation in the endorheic basin.[16][17] By the onset of the Holocene around 11,700 years ago, Lake Chewaucan had largely evaporated, leaving behind Lake Abert as a small, terminal remnant along with shorelines, tufa deposits, and other geomorphic features that mark its former extent.[16] Evidence from sites like the Paisley Caves indicates early human presence in the region during the lake's late stages.[22]Surrounding Geology
Lake Abert lies within a tectonic depression in the Great Basin region of the Basin and Range Province, characterized by fault-block mountains and extensional tectonics that have shaped its closed basin structure. The basin is a half-graben formed by normal faulting, with surrounding highlands composed primarily of uplifted fault blocks. Soils in the basin are predominantly alkaline clays derived from volcanic materials, including basalt and interbedded tuffs, which contribute to the impermeable lakebed that prevents groundwater outflow.[23][24][4] Dominating the eastern margin is Abert Rim, a prominent 2,500-foot-high (760 m) basalt escarpment that stretches approximately 30 miles (48 km) along the lake's edge, representing the longest exposed fault scarp in North America. This escarpment exposes layered basalt flows from Miocene volcanism, including the Steens Basalt formation dated to 16.6–15.3 million years ago, interbedded with andesite and minor tuffaceous sediments from middle Tertiary activity. The rim's formation resulted from extensional faulting that initiated in the late Miocene around 8.9–7 million years ago, with ongoing deformation linked to the northward propagation of the Walker Lane shear zone.[1][25][24][26] The Abert Rim fault, a north-northeast-trending normal fault dipping steeply westward, bounds the eastern side of the basin and has facilitated subsidence through crustal extension estimated at about 4% since 10 million years ago. This active fault zone exhibits evidence of Pleistocene-Holocene activity, including offsets in late deposits and association with regional seismicity, such as the 1993 Klamath Falls earthquake, contributing to continued basin lowering at rates below 1 mm per year. To the north, Lake Abert connects geologically with adjacent Summer Lake as part of a chain of closed basins in south-central Oregon's high desert, sharing a history of volcanic and tectonic influences.[27][26][23]Environmental Characteristics
Hydrology and Water Levels
Lake Abert is an endorheic terminal lake, meaning it has no surface outflow, with water loss occurring primarily through evaporation, which concentrates dissolved salts in the remaining volume.[23] The lake's hydrology is dominated by inflows from its closed drainage basin, which encompasses approximately 860 square miles in south-central Oregon.[23] The primary source of water is the Chewaucan River, contributing an average of about 48,000 acre-feet per year and draining roughly 60% of the basin area, supplemented by groundwater seepage, peripheral springs (averaging 7,000 acre-feet per year), direct precipitation on the lake surface (around 12 inches annually), and minor ephemeral streams such as Poison Creek.[23] Irrigation diversions upstream on the Chewaucan River significantly reduce inflow volumes, particularly during dry periods, though no dams directly impound the lake itself.[28] Water levels in Lake Abert exhibit pronounced fluctuations driven by variations in precipitation, snowmelt, and upstream water use within its semi-arid basin.[23] At maximum extent, the lake covers about 57 square miles with an average depth of around 7 feet, but it frequently shrinks to 20-30 square miles or less during droughts, exposing large alkali flats.[25] Historical records dating back to the 1840s, including tree-ring data and gauge measurements, document cycles of highs and lows; for instance, the lake reached an elevation of 4,260.5 feet in 1958, while it dried completely in summers of 1924, 1926, and several years in the 1930s during the Dust Bowl era.[23] Significant declines in lake levels have occurred since the early 21st century, with near-desiccation events in 2014-2015 and 2021-2022, when the lake's surface area contracted dramatically due to extreme drought, elevated evaporation from warmer temperatures, and minimal river inflow (effectively zero since 2020 from diversions).[28] In October 2022, water depth was limited to 1-2 feet in remnant pools, marking the lowest levels since the 1930s.[28] As of November 2025, the lake elevation has risen to approximately 4253 feet above NAVD 1988, reflecting partial recovery from the 2022 lows.[29] The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) monitors Lake Abert's hydrology through a stream gauge on the Chewaucan River (active since 1924) and a lake-level station installed in 2023, which records elevation, temperature, and air data in cooperation with the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife.[10] These efforts provide continuous data to track fluctuations and assess inflow dynamics.[30]Chemistry and Salinity
Lake Abert is a hypersaline terminal lake, with total dissolved solids typically ranging from 30 to 60 grams per liter (g/L), making it approximately two to three times saltier than seawater, which averages about 35 g/L.[14] Salinity levels can exceed 100 g/L during periods of low water volume, and in extreme desiccation events, such as in 2014, they have reached up to 250 g/L.[14][31] These high concentrations result primarily from evaporative concentration in the endorheic basin, with inflows from the Chewaucan River contributing the majority of solutes.[14] The lake's water chemistry is dominated by sodium ions (Na⁺), which constitute about 98% of cations, paired with anions including chloride (Cl⁻) at around 56%, carbonate (CO₃²⁻), and bicarbonate (HCO₃⁻) comprising over 40% of the total anionic equivalents.[14] Sulfate (SO₄²⁻) is present but minor, at about 2-3%, while calcium (Ca²⁺) and magnesium (Mg²⁺) remain low at less than 10 milligrams per liter (mg/L) due to precipitation as carbonates and silicates.[14] The ion proportions have remained relatively stable since at least 1912, though chloride enrichment can occur through wind transport of surface salts.[14] Lake Abert exhibits high alkalinity, measured at 20,500 mg/L as calcium carbonate equivalents, driven by the dominance of carbonate and bicarbonate species.[32] Its pH is consistently alkaline, ranging from 9 to 10, with a recorded value of 9.9 in 2017.[32] Salinity and alkalinity fluctuate temporally with hydrological conditions: levels increase during dry periods due to evaporation and reduced inflow, reaching highs in drought years, while wetter periods dilute the water to lower salinity minima around 20 g/L.[31] As one of the few hypersaline lakes in the United States, Lake Abert shares chemical similarities with Mono Lake in California, both featuring sodium-dominated, alkaline waters with high carbonate and bicarbonate content, though Abert tends to be more alkaline.[33] This chemistry limits fish populations by exceeding tolerance thresholds, contributing to an ecosystem reliant on salt-tolerant invertebrates.[13]Ecology
Aquatic Ecosystem
Lake Abert's aquatic ecosystem is adapted to extreme hypersaline and alkaline conditions, featuring a simplified food web with limited biodiversity. Primary producers consist primarily of halotolerant microorganisms, including bacteria, cyanobacteria, diatoms, and sparse filamentous algae such as Ctenocladus circinnatus, which form the base of the trophic structure. These microbes thrive at salinities ranging from 60 to 100 g/L, but algal populations diminish sharply above 140 g/L, preventing the development of algal blooms that characterize less saline lakes.[31] The ecosystem is dominated by two key invertebrate species: brine shrimp (Artemia franciscana) and alkali flies (Ephydra hians). Brine shrimp, capable of tolerating salinities up to 200 g/L in laboratory conditions, graze on bacteria, diatoms, and protozoa, achieving high biomass levels—estimated at up to 7 × 10⁶ kg during favorable periods. Alkali flies, abundant at salinities of 25–100 g/L with densities reaching thousands per square meter, feed on similar microbial films and algal mats, often pupating on submerged rocks. Both species exhibit remarkable adaptations to the lake's harsh chemistry, including osmoregulatory mechanisms in brine shrimp that produce stress-induced hemoglobin and the flies' ability to respire in low-oxygen, high-pH waters exceeding 9. Brine shrimp cysts, dormant stages resilient to desiccation, have been harvested commercially from the lake, supporting aquaculture industries.[31][31][13] The food web forms a straightforward chain: microbial primary producers support the brine shrimp and alkali fly populations, which in turn serve as prey for migratory waterbirds. This structure lacks complexity due to the absence of intermediate predators, with no fish or amphibians present; the lake's salinity and alkalinity are lethal to finfish, rendering historical introduction attempts unsuccessful.[31][34] Productivity in the aquatic ecosystem fluctuates dramatically with hydrological conditions. During wetter periods with moderate salinities (60–100 g/L), invertebrate biomass peaks, sustaining dense populations of brine shrimp and flies. However, in dry years, salinities can exceed 200 g/L, causing microbial shifts to hypersaline archaea and near-total collapse of invertebrate communities, as observed in 2014 when brine shrimp hatching failed entirely.[31][13]Wildlife and Biodiversity
Lake Abert serves as a critical stopover on the Pacific Flyway, a major north-south migration route for birds traveling between breeding grounds in the Arctic and wintering areas in Central and South America.[8] The lake's hypersaline waters and shoreline attract large concentrations of migratory waterbirds during spring and fall migrations, providing essential feeding and resting habitat. Annually, it hosts over 20,000 ducks, more than 12,000 gulls, and tens of thousands of eared grebes, which rely on the lake's abundant invertebrates for refueling before continuing their journeys. Bird populations have fluctuated with water levels, with partial recoveries in wet years like 2023 and 2025, including ~74,000 Wilson's phalaropes in 2023 and thousands of ducks and grebes observed in 2025 surveys (as of November 2025).[35][36][37] Among the key bird species frequenting Lake Abert are Wilson's phalaropes, American avocets, and snowy plovers, which use the lake's alkaline shores for foraging and nesting.[8] These shorebirds, particularly Wilson's phalaropes, congregate in impressive numbers during late summer, with the lake supporting some of the largest regional populations. Alkali flies, which thrive in the saline environment, form a vital food source for these birds, supplementing the diet of brine shrimp and other invertebrates.[38] Terrestrial wildlife around Lake Abert includes mule deer and pronghorn, which graze on the sparse vegetation of the surrounding high desert landscape, including low sagebrush and native grasses.[39] Raptors such as bald eagles also inhabit the area, nesting along the dramatic Abert Rim cliffs that overlook the lake and preying on smaller birds and rodents. The limited plant cover supports a variety of insects, which in turn sustain these larger herbivores and birds of prey.[2] Lake Abert is recognized as an internationally important bird habitat, designated as a key site for aquatic birds and supporting over 200 species seasonally, including residents and migrants.[40][41] While the lake hosts no endemic species due to its harsh saline conditions, it holds regional significance for shorebirds, providing irreplaceable habitat in the Great Basin ecosystem.[42]Human History
Indigenous and Prehistoric Use
Evidence of human presence in the vicinity of Lake Abert dates back approximately 14,300 years, based on radiocarbon dating of human coprolites recovered from the nearby Paisley Caves complex, which lies within the ancient Lake Chewaucan basin.[43] This occupation coincides with the decline of the expansive prehistoric Lake Chewaucan into smaller, more saline bodies like modern Lake Abert. The earliest inhabitants likely exploited the region's resources during a period of environmental transition from freshwater to alkali conditions. The area surrounding Lake Abert formed part of the traditional territories of Northern Paiute bands, as well as ancestors of the Klamath and Modoc peoples, who utilized the landscape for hunting, gathering, fishing, and establishing seasonal camps.[44][4] During prehistoric freshwater phases of the ancient lake, communities engaged in fishing for species such as trout, while later hypersaline conditions supported gathering of alkali flies and brine shrimp from the lake's ecosystem, alongside collection of roots, medicines, and wildlife in the surrounding wetlands and uplands.[44] Hunting blinds and seasonal travel routes followed natural paths tied to water and food availability, reflecting adaptive subsistence strategies in the Chewaucan Basin.[44] Archaeological evidence includes the East Lake Abert Archeological District, featuring stone-walled house pits, rock shelters, and petroglyphs along Abert Rim, indicating continuous occupation for over 11,000 years.[45] Artifacts such as obsidian tools, sourced from regional quarries, point to tool-making and trade networks among these groups.[46] The site's cultural significance endures in Northern Paiute oral histories, which describe sacred water features, lake creatures, and the basin's role in ancestral lifeways, underscoring its enduring importance to Indigenous heritage.[44]European Exploration and Settlement
The first recorded European sighting of Lake Abert occurred during a Hudson's Bay Company fur-trapping expedition led by John Work, who reached the north end of the lake on October 16, 1832, and described it as a salt lake in his journal while en route to California./L) Work's party was part of broader British efforts to trap beaver in the Pacific Northwest amid competition from American traders, marking an early incursion into the remote Great Basin region. More than a decade later, during the Oregon Trail era of western expansion, American explorer John C. Frémont led a U.S. Army Topographical Engineers expedition from The Dalles to Sutter's Fort, arriving at the lake on December 20, 1843. Frémont named it Lake Abert in honor of Colonel John James Abert, his superior and head of the Topographical Bureau, while noting the surrounding barren, alkaline landscape devoid of timber and suitable only for sparse grass.[45] This survey aimed to map potential emigrant routes and military paths across the uncharted interior, providing critical data on the Great Basin's hydrology and terrain that informed subsequent U.S. topographic mapping and settlement patterns.[47] European-American settlement around Lake Abert remained sparse until the late 19th century, when ranchers began establishing operations in the high desert bottomlands for cattle grazing, drawn by the natural pastures near the alkaline lake. These early ranches formed the foundation of local agriculture in Lake County, adapting to the harsh environment with seasonal herding practices.[48]Modern Human Activity
Economic Uses
The commercial harvest of brine shrimp (Artemia franciscana) from Lake Abert was a primary economic activity from 1979 to 2014, when operations targeted both cysts and adult shrimp for use as high-protein feed in global aquaculture, particularly for fish and shrimp farming. Harvesting occurred during periods of suitable salinity and water levels, typically using low-impact methods such as dip nets or mechanical skimmers to gather cysts from the lake bottom and adults from surface swarms. Annual yields varied widely, influenced by hydrological conditions; for instance, production peaked in years with stable water levels but declined sharply during droughts when salinity exceeded optimal ranges for shrimp reproduction.[49][50] The brine shrimp industry generated significant revenue for local operators in Lake County until 2014, with permit holders required to meet minimum harvest thresholds of 5,000 pounds annually to retain access. In optimal years, the fishery supported employment and contributed to the regional economy through sales to international markets, though exact figures fluctuated with environmental variability. Brine shrimp, a dominant species in the lake's hypersaline aquatic ecosystem, formed dense populations that enabled this extractive use. However, harvesting ceased in 2014 due to the lake's desiccation and extreme salinity, and has not resumed as of 2025 due to repeated dry periods in 2014–2015 and 2021.[49][50][51] Livestock grazing occurs on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) allotments bordering Lake Abert's shores, including the XL Allotment encompassing approximately 46,178 acres along the western side. This allotment permits cattle grazing under a three-pasture rest-rotation system, allowing two years of use followed by one year of rest to promote vegetation recovery and control utilization rates around 50-60%. Regulations emphasize minimizing erosion through monitoring bare ground cover and noxious weed management, with average annual use of about 3,234 animal unit months supporting sustainable forage production. These activities bolster the local ranching economy by providing essential grazing lands for beef production in southern Oregon, and as of 2024, grazing continues with discussions on water-efficient practices to support lake restoration.[52][53][54] Upstream diversions from the Chewaucan River for agricultural irrigation, primarily flood irrigation of hayfields and ranchlands, have substantially reduced inflows to Lake Abert since the late 19th century. Modifications to the Chewaucan Marsh between 1884 and 1915 expanded irrigation infrastructure, diverting water for approximately 200 square kilometers of farmland and contributing to significant volume losses, such as nearly 90% by 2014 during extreme dry periods. This reduction indirectly constrained economic uses by altering salinity and shrimp productivity. Minor historical efforts at alkali extraction targeted the lake's sodium-rich sediments in the early 20th century, but no commercial mining operates today due to low viability and environmental protections.[55][50][56]Recreation and Tourism
Lake Abert serves as a prime destination for bird watching, particularly as a key stop on the Pacific Flyway migration route, where visitors can observe large concentrations of shorebirds and waterfowl during seasonal peaks in spring and fall.[1] The area is designated as a Watchable Wildlife Area by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), with interpretive signs and viewpoints along U.S. Route 395 providing optimal spots for non-intrusive observation of species such as phalaropes and avocets.[1] This remote, hypersaline lake attracts dedicated birders and naturalists seeking unique high-desert avian diversity without the crowds of more developed sites.[57] Hiking and scenic viewing opportunities center on the dramatic Abert Rim, North America's longest exposed fault scarp at over 2,500 feet high, offering panoramic vistas of the lake and surrounding Great Basin landscape.[1] Access is primarily via informal trails, such as the challenging 3-mile round-trip cross-country route through Juniper Creek drainage off Highway 395, which involves steep climbs, boulder scrambling, and bushwhacking but rewards hikers with sightings of bighorn sheep and raptors.[58] Scenic drives along the highway feature numerous pullouts for photography and contemplation, making it accessible for those preferring low-effort exploration.[59] Due to the lake's extreme salinity and shallow depth—reaching only about 7 feet at maximum—activities like swimming and boating are not feasible or permitted, preserving the fragile ecosystem while limiting appeal to mass tourism.[1] The site's remoteness further deters large crowds, with no on-site restrooms, water, or other amenities; visitors must plan for self-sufficiency, sourcing supplies from Lakeview, 25 miles south.[59] BLM-managed viewpoints and minimal interpretive infrastructure support a primitive experience focused on solitude and nature appreciation.[1] As part of Oregon's Outback Scenic Byway, Lake Abert draws photographers, naturalists, and eco-tourists intrigued by its stark, otherworldly beauty and role in the region's volcanic and fault-line geology.[60] The byway's 170-mile route highlights the lake's alkaline waters and rimrock formations, integrating it into broader journeys through the high desert that emphasize wildlife viewing and cultural history.[61] This positioning enhances its allure for adventurous travelers seeking authentic, low-impact encounters in the Great Basin.[59]Conservation and Challenges
Management and Protection
Lake Abert is managed by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management (BLM) as public land within the agency's Lakeview District, encompassing the lake and surrounding areas including the Abert Rim.[1][30] The lake was designated as the Lake Abert Area of Critical Environmental Concern (ACEC) in 1996 under the BLM's High Desert Management Framework Plan Amendment, recognizing its unique ecological, wildlife, water resource, and scenic values that require special management to prevent irreversible damage. The ACEC spans approximately 50,165 acres of BLM-administered land adjacent to private holdings.[40] Additionally, Lake Abert is recognized by the Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network as a site of hemispheric importance for shorebirds, highlighting its international significance for migratory bird populations.[42] BLM policies for the ACEC include grazing permits that incorporate riparian protections, such as maintaining fences to safeguard wetland and shoreline habitats essential for wildlife.[62] Water rights proposals have advanced to support ecological flows, including a 2025 initiative exploring the granting of water rights to bird species to ensure wetland availability for migrants like Wilson's phalaropes along the Pacific Flyway.[63] The Oregon Natural Desert Association (ONDA) and the National Audubon Society actively advocate for basin-wide management strategies to protect Lake Abert's ecosystem, emphasizing coordinated water allocation and habitat restoration across the Chewaucan River watershed. In 2025, the National Audubon Society expanded its saline lakes conservation program to include Lake Abert, focusing on habitat protection and water security for migratory birds.[64][65][66][67] Recent actions include a 2022 petition to Oregon Governor Kate Brown by Audubon, ONDA, and partners requesting state intervention for low-water conditions, such as monitoring programs and regulatory measures to maintain lake levels.[66] In 2024, a legal and policy framework was outlined by the University of Oregon Environmental Law Clinic, proposing federal and state tools like instream water rights and Endangered Species Act protections to facilitate lake restoration.[30]Climate Change Impacts
Climate change is intensifying water stress on Lake Abert through higher evaporation rates and reduced precipitation in the surrounding Chewaucan Basin. Oregon's annual average temperature has risen by 2.2°F over the last century, contributing to drier conditions that diminish inflows from the Chewaucan River. Projections indicate that annual temperatures could increase by at least 5°F by 2074 under continued emissions scenarios, further accelerating evaporation and exacerbating water scarcity in this terminal lake system.[68][69] These climatic shifts have led to significant lake level declines, with Lake Abert approaching near-dry conditions in 2022, where 99% of the lakebed was exposed. Shorebird populations, which rely on the lake as a critical stopover, have experienced annual declines of up to 10% from 2012 to 2022, directly linked to habitat loss from drying. Ecologically, reduced water levels have increased salinity to lethal levels for key invertebrates like brine shrimp and alkali flies, slashing productivity and disrupting the food web that supports migratory birds. Exposed lakebed sediments have also triggered dust storms carrying particulates and potential toxins, while drier surrounding vegetation heightens wildfire risk in the basin.[70][63][54] Future projections suggest continued shrinkage of Lake Abert through 2100, driven by persistent warming and aridity, which will intensify conflicts over upstream irrigation diversions in the Chewaucan Basin. As part of the broader Great Basin terminal lake crisis, where over two-thirds of such lakes have lost more than half their volume since 1990 due to combined climate and human pressures, Lake Abert underscores the urgent need for adaptive water management to mitigate these escalating threats.[70][71][72]References
- https://digitalcollections.library.[oregon](/page/Oregon).gov/nodes/view/138741
