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London Cheesecake
London Cheesecake
London Cheesecake
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London Cheesecake

The London Cheesecake is a pastry confection that contains no cheese.[1] It was described by Will Self in The Unbearable Lightness of Being a Prawn Cracker as "...not cake at all but rather a square of puff pastry...while so far as I could tell there wasn't any cheese incorporated into this sweetmeat, which instead was garnished with some coconut or mallow shavings."[1]

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London Cheesecake

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London cheesecake is a traditional British pastry that features a base of flaky topped with a layer of , an or sponge filling, and a coating of desiccated secured by a icing glaze, despite its name, containing no cheese whatsoever. The origins of cheesecake remain obscure, with some accounts tracing early similar pastries to 18th-century British cookbooks, though the specific version gained widespread popularity as a teatime treat in the and , particularly in bakeries. The addition of "London" to the name likely emerged to distinguish it from richer, cream-based American-style cheesecakes, and theories for the "cheesecake" moniker include the shredded coconut's resemblance to grated cheese or a historical use of cheese in precursors like Deptford pudding, though the modern iteration is entirely cheese-free. Commonly baked in square or rectangular shapes and sometimes garnished with glacé cherries, London cheesecake exemplifies British baking's emphasis on simple, layered textures combining crisp , fruity sweetness, and nutty flavors, remaining a nostalgic staple in cafés and home baking today. It is also known regionally as "hairy cheesecake" or "hairy Mary" due to its distinctive topping.

History and Origins

Early Development

The origins of London Cheesecake remain obscure, rooted in longstanding British baking traditions where small pastry tarts known simply as "cheesecakes" first appeared in 18th-century cookbooks as modest for households and taverns. These early recipes, such as those documented in Hannah Glasse's The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1747), featured thin cases filled with curd cheese blended with eggs, sugar, and flavorings like or rosewater, baked briefly to yield a light, custard-like interior. By the late 18th century, variations proliferated, with Elizabeth Raffald's The Experienced English Housekeeper (1769) offering seven distinct cheesecake recipes emphasizing curd-based fillings, while John Farley's The London Art of Cookery (1783)—compiled by the head chef at the London Tavern—included eight similar preparations, many directly adapted from Raffald, incorporating ground almonds, macaroons, and floral waters for a richer, nutty profile akin to . These tarts drew from South-East English regional practices, utilizing locally available dairy curds and puff or techniques honed in urban bakeries around and . No definitive inventor or precise origin date can be attributed to the , as it evolved through iterative experimentation in domestic and commercial kitchens rather than a singular innovation. Initially termed merely "" in Britain to denote the element—despite some versions substituting for scarcity or preference—the prefix "" appears to have been adopted later, possibly in the 19th or early , to differentiate the flaky, jam-topped British iteration from the denser, cream cheese-based American styles emerging transatlantically. This naming evolution underscores the 's ties to 's heritage, where it was shaped by cooks and household experimentation without a centralized creation story.

20th-Century Popularity

During the post-war period, London Cheesecake surged in popularity throughout the and as an affordable and accessible treat in bakeries across and South-East . This pastry, featuring layers of with jam and a coconut-iced topping, became a staple in local shops, offering a sweet indulgence amid economic recovery. Its commercialization in urban bakeries made it widely available, appealing to working-class families seeking quick, budget-friendly options for midday meals or snacks. The dessert's cultural resonance deepened through its ties to post-war British home baking and tea-time traditions, where it served as a nostalgic emblem of simpler pleasures. Often prepared at home or purchased from neighborhood bakeries, it complemented afternoon tea rituals, evoking comfort in an era of rationing's aftermath. A notable variant appeared in the 1966 edition of Good Housekeeping's cookbook, incorporating cream cheese into the frangipane filling alongside shortcrust pastry, lemon rind, and currants—this recipe represented a transitional phase before the standard cheese-free version solidified in popular memory. By the late , Cheesecake's prominence waned due to shifting culinary preferences toward more diverse international desserts and modern baking trends, leading to its near-obsolescence in mainstream offerings. However, it has seen a revival in the through heritage baking initiatives, with contemporary bakers and publications resurrecting the recipe to preserve regional British pastry traditions.

Description and Composition

Key Components

London Cheesecake is characterized by its multi-layered composition, which combines crisp with sweet, moist fillings to create a distinctly British pastry treat. The foundational element is a base layer of ready-rolled , typically weighing approximately 375g to yield 6 individual pieces, that provides the essential flakiness and structure when baked. This pastry is divided and assembled into squares or rectangles; in one common variation, it forms both the bottom and top layers that encase the inner components, while other versions use a single open-topped base. At the heart of the cheesecake lies a thin filling of fruit jam, such as , distributed in small amounts—around 6 teaspoons total across the portions—which is spread directly onto the base before the top layer is added or the topping in open versions. This jam contributes bursts of tangy sweetness and helps maintain moisture within the enclosure or topping during . Crowning the assembly is a topping, crafted from 100g softened , 100g caster sugar, 100g ground almonds, and 1 beaten egg, which forms a rich, almond-infused mixture spread over the jam-filled . Upon , this evolves into a tender, sponge-like layer that complements the crisp exterior with its nutty depth and subtle chew; some recipes incorporate for a more cake-like sponge. Notably absent from these components is any form of cheese, despite the pastry's evocative name; this moniker stems from historical British baking terminology, where "" originally denoted small, enclosed or nut tarts unrelated to creamy desserts, with the "London" prefix later adopted to differentiate it from richer, cream-based varieties.

Appearance and Texture

London Cheesecake presents a distinctive visual appeal characterized by its golden, flaky exterior, achieved through the baking of layered that yields a lightly browned, puffed surface. Typically portioned into small squares or rectangles, the pastry's crisp edges and subtle rise evoke a rustic yet refined aesthetic, setting it apart from smoother creamy desserts. The top surface is generously coated in shiny white glacé icing, creating a glossy, smooth finish that contrasts with the rougher base, while a sprinkling of desiccated or flaked adds a textured, snowy layer for visual and tactile interest. The icing helps secure the coconut topping. Optional glacé cherries, often halved or whole, serve as decorative accents placed centrally or along the edges, introducing pops of vivid color against the pale topping. Texturally, the cheesecake offers a satisfying contrast between its crunchy, crackly outer layers and the yielding softness within, where sticky mingles with a moist, almond-rich filling to deliver a cohesive yet multifaceted bite—flaky on the exterior yet tender and slightly chewy at the core. This interplay enhances its pastry-like allure, emphasizing structure over creaminess. In open-topped versions, the baked provides additional crispness on top.

Preparation

Basic Method

The basic method for preparing London Cheesecake involves assembling individual pastries from layers filled with jam and before . Begin by preheating the oven to 200°C (400°F) or 180°C (350°F) fan and lining a baking tray with to prevent sticking during assembly and initial preparation. To prepare the pastry, unroll a 375 g sheet of ready-rolled and cut it into 12 equal rectangular pieces, ensuring even sizing for consistent assembly; this can be done by marking lines on the sheet with a knife without fully separating the pieces initially to maintain structure. Place six of these pieces on the prepared baking tray to serve as the bases. Next, spread approximately one teaspoon of raspberry jam evenly over the center of each base piece, keeping it away from the edges to avoid leakage during sealing; raspberry jam is traditionally used for its tart balance against the sweet frangipane. Prepare the frangipane mixture by creaming 100 g softened butter with 100 g caster sugar until light and fluffy, then beating in one large egg followed by 100 g ground almonds to form a smooth paste; this creaming process incorporates air for a tender texture once baked. Spoon or pipe a portion of the frangipane over the jam on each base, spreading it to cover the jam fully but leaving a small border around the edges. Finally, position one of the remaining six pastry pieces atop each filled base to create sandwiched pastries, then gently press down around the edges to seal the filling inside, ensuring no gaps for the jam and to escape. The assembled pastries are now ready for transfer to the .

Baking and Finishing

Once the assembled pastries have been prepared by sealing the edges of the squares, they are baked in a preheated at 200°C (400°F) or 180°C (350°F) fan for 20-25 minutes, until the pastry is golden brown and puffed up. After baking, the pastries are allowed to cool for about 5 minutes on the baking tray before being transferred to a wire rack to cool completely, ensuring the structure sets properly before decoration. For finishing, a glacé icing is prepared by mixing approximately 200 g icing sugar with 1-2 tablespoons water, adding the water gradually, to form a thick, spreadable paste. This icing is then drizzled or spooned over the cooled tops, followed immediately by sprinkling desiccated or shredded over the wet icing to adhere, and placing a halved glacé cherry in the center of each for decoration. London cheesecakes are best stored in an airtight container at for up to 5 days, where they maintain their texture and flavor optimally when served fresh.

Cultural Significance

Role in British Baking

emerged as a staple in bakeries during the and , serving as an inexpensive and portable sweet treat particularly favored by workers and families seeking affordable indulgences. This period marked its height of popularity as a lunchtime , reflecting its practicality for on-the-go consumption in the bustling urban environment of post-war Britain. Deeply embedded in British tea-time traditions, London Cheesecake was often paired with , enhancing the ritual of afternoon breaks and social gatherings among working-class and middle-class communities. Its presence in local bakeries made it a common offering at community events, underscoring its role as a comforting, everyday delight in regional culture. The pastry exemplifies simplicity in British baking, relying on accessible ingredients such as ready-made from neighborhood shops, jam, and basic toppings to create an unpretentious yet satisfying . This approach mirrored the era's emphasis on resourcefulness and local production following wartime . In modern British , London Cheesecake endures as a nostalgic symbol, evoking childhood memories for many in South-East and preserving a slice of traditional heritage. Its revival in contemporary bakeries highlights ongoing appreciation for this humble treat's historical charm.

Modern Interpretations

Since the , London Cheesecake has experienced a revival through online recipes and blogs, where enthusiasts share nostalgic recreations to preserve its heritage as a traditional British . Sites like The English Kitchen and Great British Recipes feature detailed instructions emphasizing its base, jam filling, and iced topping, often highlighting childhood memories from the mid-20th century to connect modern bakers with its origins. This digital resurgence has democratized access to the recipe, allowing home cooks to replicate the treat using readily available ingredients while maintaining its distinctive flaky texture and sweet profile. Contemporary availability reflects this renewed interest, with London Cheesecake offered in specialty British bakeries and , often as frozen or pre-packaged items for convenience. Chains like and independent bakers such as Grouts The Bakers sell individual portions, typically priced around £1-£1.60, featuring the classic combination of almond , jam, and coconut-dusted icing. such as stock twin packs, marketed as retro treats to appeal to nostalgia-driven consumers, ensuring the pastry remains accessible beyond artisanal settings. Adaptations for dietary needs have emerged to broaden its appeal, particularly using gluten-free sheets like those from Jus-Rol, which maintain the original's layered flakiness without . These modifications allow celiacs and others with sensitivities to enjoy the treat, with online recipes substituting ready-rolled gluten-free while keeping and icing intact for authenticity. Vegan-friendly versions have also emerged to accommodate plant-based diets by avoiding dairy in the . The pastry's quirky name and —containing no cheese—have been highlighted in modern literature, notably by author in his collection The Unbearable Lightness of Being a , where he describes it as a " " evoking regional traditions. This cultural nod underscores its enduring charm in contemporary British media, positioning it as a whimsical emblem of heritage .
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