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Oris regulator dive watch with small seconds

Key Information

Oris SA is a Swiss luxury manufacturer of mechanical watches. The company was founded in 1904 and is based in Hölstein in the canton of Basel-Landschaft.

History

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Genesis and early growth

[edit]

Oris was founded by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian in the Swiss town of Hölstein. They bought the recently closed Lohner & Co watch factory, and on 1 June 1904 the two men entered into a contract with the local mayor. They named their new watch company Oris after a nearby brook, and they began the industrial manufacture of pocket watches.[2] In its founding year, Oris employed 67 people.[3]

In 1906, the firm opened an assembly plant and second factory in the nearby town of Holderbank. Another factory followed in Como in 1908. By 1911, Oris had become the largest employer in Hölstein, with over 300 workers.[4] By 1914, Oris had produced over a million watches.[5] To entice more watchmakers, it built houses and apartments for its staff, and it expanded so that by 1929 it had additional factories in Courgenay (1916), Herbetswil (1925) and Ziefen (1925).[6] Once all plants were operating at capacity, Oris boasted it could create “one watch every three seconds.”[5]

The first Oris wristwatches

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With the opening of the Ziefen factory and the electroplating plant in Herbetswil, Oris expanded its product range. The company began to fit bracelet buckles to its pocket watches, thereby transforming them into fully-fledged wristwatches.[5] Oris began its focus on the fledgling aviation industry. By 1911, a pocket watch was developed for pilots, and in 1917, Oris created its first pilot’s watch to be worn on the wrist.[7]

In 1927, company co-founder Georges Christian died and Jacques-David LeCoultre became President of the Board of Directors. Jacques-David LeCoultre was Antoine LeCoultre’s grandson and the man who merged with Edmond Jaeger to form Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1937. Following the death of Georges Christian a year earlier, Oscar Herzog, Christian's brother-in-law, took over as General Manager in 1928, a position he held for 43 years.[8]

The Swiss Watch Statute

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On 12 March 1934 the Swiss government introduced a law known as the Watch Statute,[9] which was intended to protect and regulate the Swiss watch industry. The law authorized a “cartel”, made up of 2,241 designated member companies, 79% of which could have no more than 20 employees. At the time, Oris employed hundreds of people, making it too large to join the official cartel of Swiss manufacturers. The law prevented the large watch companies from introducing new technologies without permission.[5] For Oris, the statute proved to be an obstacle because until that point, Oris had been using pin-lever escapement (Roskopf escapement) movements, which were claimed to be less accurate than the lever escapements used by some of Oris’s competitors.[10]

Oris Meistertaucher displaying illumination
Oris ProDiver Chronograph

Despite continuing commercial success with pin-lever escapments,[11] Oris took action against the Watch Statute, in order to enable the company to adopt the more accurate and durable lever escapement.[5] In 1956 the company’s General Manager Oscar Herzog hired a young lawyer by the name of Dr Rolf Portmann who spent his first 10 years at the company campaigning to reverse the Watch Statute. Subsequently, the Watch Statute was gradually liberalised until it was abolished in 1971.[12] Oris was then allowed to make Swiss lever escapement watches, its first being the automatic Calibre 645,[4] followed shortly by the Calibre 652 movement, which was awarded full chronometer certification, the highest distinction for accuracy, by the Observatoire Astronomique et Chronométrique.[7]

War Years and Beyond

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In 1936, Oris opened its own dial factory in Biel/Bienne.[13] By that time, the company produced almost every element of its watch and clock products in-house.[5] Oris introduced its signature pilot’s watch in 1938, the so-called Big Crown. The collection takes its name from the watch’s oversized crown, employed as an aid to pilots who adjust their watches while wearing leather gloves. Variations on this watch are still produced today.[14]

Vintage Oris watches with pointer date complications

During the Second World War, Oris’s distribution network beyond Switzerland was reduced significantly, due to decreased consumer demand as well as export and production limitations imposed by the government.[15] To keep business alive, the company started manufacturing alarm clocks.[11] Throughout the War, production of alarm clocks overshadowed wristwatches.[4]

In 1948, Rolex's patent on the central-rotor automatic movement expired, making it possible for Oris to unveil an automatic movement of its own, including a power reserve display, which was quite rare at the time (1952).[5] In 1956, the company used its expertise with clocks to inaugurate an alarm function on its Calibre 601 model wristwatch.[16] The first Oris Diver was released in 1965, with large cardinal numbers highlighted by inverted lume wedges and using Oris' in-house movements calibre 654 and calibre 484.[17] The original diver was recreated in 2015 with the Divers Sixty-Five, a vintage-inspired collection of dive watches.[18]

The Quartz Crisis

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By the end of the 1960s, 44 per cent of all watches sold worldwide originated in Switzerland.[19] Oris employed 800 people across a network of factories in Hölstein and beyond, and produced 1.2 million watches and clocks a year, making it one of the 10 largest watch companies in the world.[20] The company developed its own tools and machinery, and even ran an apprenticeship scheme, training 40 engineers and watchmakers every year.[5]

On 25 December 1969, Seiko unveiled the Astron, the world's first quartz watch, which marked the beginning of the quartz revolution.[21] The first Swiss quartz analog watch – the Ebauches SA Beta 21 – arrived at the 1970 Basel Fair.[22] The Beta 21 was released by numerous manufacturers including the Omega Electroquartz. On 6 May 1970, Hamilton introduced the Pulsar – the world's first electronic digital watch.[23] In the 1970s and early 1980s, quartz watches from Asia gained massive market share. The so-called ‘Quartz Crisis’ meant the end for around 900 watch companies in Switzerland and unemployment for two thirds of watch industry employees. Swiss manufacturers’ market share fell to 13 per cent worldwide.[24]

In 1970, Oris gave up its independence and became part of Allgemeine Schweizer Uhrenindustrie AG (ASUAG), the predecessor of the Swatch Group.[25] The management of the parent organization compelled Oris to manufacture quartz watches, in order to compete with the Japanese.[26][5] However, this did not restore success. In the early 1980s, Oris employed only a few dozen people. In 1981, the production of its own movements was abandoned.[27]

Independence

[edit]

Like many other Swiss watch manufacturers in the early 1980s, Oris was on the verge of closure.[28] Managing Director Dr Rolf Portmann – who was instrumental in the reversal of the Watch Statute – and Head of Marketing Ulrich W. Herzog took over the remainder of the company in 1982 as part of a management buyout.[2] This turned Oris back into an independent company.[16] Soon after, the newly formed and independent Oris SA elected to abandon quartz and produce mechanical timepieces in the mid-price segment.[29] In 1988, Oris introduced an alarm wristwatch, with the calibre 418, incorporating its own alarm module using a real gong.[5] By 1992 the company produced only mechanical watches.[4]

It also produces a very small series of luxury promotional watches under the 'Saros' brand at the request of large companies for very special occasions. These watches made in Hölstein are only recognizable by the inscriptions on the back, the frame being fully dedicated to the subject of the promotion.[30] The movements of these bespoke watches are mainly quartz, made in Switzerland.

The brand remains one of the very few Swiss watch manufacturers independent from large groups such as Swatch, Richemont or LVMH.[31]

21st Century

[edit]

Since the turn of the millennium, the company has concentrated on watch market sectors of Diving, Culture, Aviation and Motor Sports.[32]

Oris Aquis Depth Gauge
  • Diving: In 2004, the Quick Lock Crown system was developed, which only requires a single clockwise turn of 120 degrees to secure the crown in place.[33] In 2009, Oris introduced the Rotation Safety System, a device that locks the uni-directional rotating bezel of a diving watch into place, preventing accidental adjustment underwater.[34] Oris patented the Oris Aquis Depth Gauge, its first mechanical depth gauge, in 2013. It allows water into a channel via a small hole at 12 o’clock. Water enters the hole under pressure, creating a watermark that corresponds to a depth gauge.[35] As of the early 2020's, the brand's flagship product remains the Aquis diver watch line, featuring the in-house Calibre 400 and the Quick Strap Change System, which allows the strap to be changed easily and without tools.[36]
  • Culture: The Artelier Worldtimer (2004) was part of the brand’s “Oris Centennial Set”, released to celebrate its 100th anniversary.[37] A world timer displays time across all 24 major time zones, generally by way of a ring featuring names of cities that are representative of each zone.[38] The Artelier Worldtimier, in contrast, uses a pivoting 2-way bezel that enables the wearer to jump the local hour hand forward or backward in single hour increments while also driving the date.[39]
  • Motor Sports: Although the "Motor Sport Collection" was inaugurated in 1970 with the Chronoris model, focus sharpened through a partnership with Formula One team Williams Racing in 2003, resulting in the 2015 release of the "Williams" featuring stainless steel or black Carbon Fiber and Titanium cases, a sporty, black rubber band, dark face, and blue team-colored accents.[40] In 2018 Oris ceased its F1 sponsorship because the watch company's focus shifted to environmental conservation.[41]
Oris Calibre 110 02

Since 2002, the Red Rotor has served as Oris's registered trademark and distinguishing feature and is visible on many Oris watches through transparent casebacks.[37]

In 2005, Oris sponsored a civic event in Hölstein which featured a smiling bear. This "Oris Bear" subsequently became the company's mascot.[42]

In 2014, Oris celebrated 110 years of watchmaking with its first in-house-developed calibre for 35 years. Calibre 110 was a hand-wound movement that featured a 10-day power reserve and a patented non-linear power reserve indicator.[43] It featured an exceptionally large barrel spring with a 6-foot (1.8m) spring.[44] It resulted from a collaboration between Oris and L’École Téchnique Le Locle that took over 10 years to realize.[45] In 2020, Oris introduced the Calibre 400, an in-house movement which is anti-magnetic up to 2250 gauss, has a 5-day power reserve (120 hours), a recommended 10-year service interval and comes with a 10-year warranty.[46] Since 2014, Oris developed its in-house Movement Creation Program, which has, over the succeeding decade, unveiled ten new mechanical calibers, the latest of which (as of 2023) is the hand-wound caliber 473 with five days of power reserve, increased anti-magnetism and a 10-year warranty.[47]

In 2022, Oris was named the Official Timekeeper for Lord’s Cricket Ground, the first in the history of the 230-year-old cricket club.[48]

Notable models

[edit]
Oris Pointer Date 1938
  • Big Crown Pointer Date (1938) -- had an oversized crown that could be easily operated by a pilot wearing gloves, along with large Arabic numerals so the time could be read quickly in the cockpit. It had a fluted bezel and a central hand with a pointer tip that indicated the date.[49] In 2022, a new edition featured a 40mm case made from bronze, and employed Oris’s Calibre 754 automatic movement.[50]
  • 8-Day-Clock (1949)
  • Chronoris (1970) -- 60 second timer with an internal bezel that is set by the crown at 3, while the crown at 4 winds the watch and sets the time. The pusher at 2 starts, stops and resets the stopwatch. The model was reissued in 2005 and again in 2017 as the Chronoris Date, with the Oris automatic caliber 733, based on the Sellita SW 200-1.[51]
  • Oris Worldtimer (1997) -- incorporated a multi time zone complication, using pushers at both 4 and 8:00 to respectively advance or decrease the main hour hand (local time) by an hour with each click.[52] In 2017, a new edition was released whereby the hour hand could be adjusted by turning the bezel rather than via the former model's two pusher system.[53]
  • Aquis (2011) -- featured a 300-meter water-resistant case, with a screw-down crown; a ratcheting unidirectional dive-scale bezel; a domed sapphire crystal over the dial; a set of distinctive lugs that screw securely into the strap or bracelet; a date window at 6 o’clock; powered by the Oris Caliber 733.[54] In 2017, Oris started updating the Aquis collection,[55] with the result that by 2023 there were 42 different configurations in sizes of 39.mm, 41.5mm, and 43.5mm.[56]
  • Rectangular (2021) -- Oris’ first rectangular-shaped watch appeared in 1996 as a tribute to Miles Davis and a limited edition model was designed in honour of Bob Dylan in 2008. Neither had significant commercial appeal. In 2021, Oris revived the series with four-sided stainless steel cases measuring 25.5mm in diameter and 30mm in length, smaller than previous Rectangular Oris watches.[57]
  • Coulson Limited Edition (2022) --inspired by Coulson Aviation’s efforts to combat wildfires, and developed in conjunction with the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology, Oris utilizes a unique 3D printing process that prints both carbon fiber and PEKK aerospace-derived polymer simultaneously to create an extremely light and rigid carbon fiber composite case.[58]
  • ProPilot Altimeter (2023) -- the first writstwatch to utilize an integrated mechanical altimeter, whereby unscrewing the crown allows air to enter the case, so that once the internal scale is adjusted to a referenced air pressure, the watch will accurately display the wearer's current altitude.[59]

See also

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Wikimedia Commons has media related to Oris.

References

[edit]
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Oris

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Oris SA is an independent Swiss watch manufacturer founded on June 1, 1904, in Hölstein, , by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, who acquired the Lohner & Co. watch factory to produce high-quality mechanical timepieces designed to bring joy and functionality to wearers. From its early expansion in the , when it became Hölstein's largest employer with over 300 workers and established additional factories, Oris has maintained a commitment to Swiss-made mechanical watches that emphasize real-world utility and accessible luxury. Key innovations include the 1938 Big Crown pilot's watch featuring a Pointer complication, which addressed practical needs for aviators with its oversized crown for gloved operation. In the post-World War II era, Oris navigated industry challenges, including the , by focusing on mechanical movements; a pivotal by Rolf Portmann and Ulrich W. Herzog shifted the company exclusively to mechanical watches, ensuring its independence. This era marked a revival, highlighted by the 1966 introduction of Caliber 645 after reversing restrictive watch statutes, and continued with modern in-house developments like the 2014 Calibre 110—boasting a 10-day power reserve—and the 2020 Calibre 400, offering a 5-day reserve and 10-year warranty. Today, Oris upholds a of sustainable and joy in mechanics, producing collections such as Divers for and Big Crown for aviation heritage, while prioritizing environmental responsibility through initiatives like responsibly sourced materials and long-lasting designs. Celebrating 120 years in , the company remains family-owned and operates from its original Hölstein headquarters, embodying a legacy of precision craftsmanship without conglomerate influence.

History

Founding and Early Years

Oris was founded on June 1, 1904, by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where the duo acquired the recently shuttered Lohner & Co. watch factory to establish Manufacture d'Horlogerie de Hölstein Christian & Cattin. Initially, the company concentrated on producing watch components, including cases and crowns, laying the groundwork for its mechanical watchmaking expertise. The name "Oris" was derived from the nearby Orisbach brook, a of the Ergolz River, reflecting the founders' connection to the local landscape. In , Oris expanded by constructing a dedicated assembly plant and second factory in the neighboring town of Holderbank, enhancing production capabilities while maintaining its base in Hölstein. By , the company had adopted the Oris and introduced its first complete branded watches, primarily watches equipped with simple Roskopf-style pin-pallet movements sourced externally, marking the shift toward full timepiece assembly. These early models catered to affordable segments of the market, with production gradually incorporating nascent wristwatch designs. The company's rapid ascent continued, reaching approximately 300 employees by 1910 and solidifying its role as Hölstein's largest employer. This development helped establish Oris's foundation in independent watch production amid the burgeoning Swiss industry.

Growth and Innovations (1910s–1940s)

During the 1910s, Oris transitioned toward wristwatch production amid the growing popularity of and personal timepieces, introducing its first men's wristwatch in 1917, which was essentially a pilot's adapted with soldered lugs for wrist wear. This marked a shift from pocket watches and alarm clocks, aligning with broader industry trends toward portable horology. By 1911, the company had already become Hölstein's largest employer with over 300 workers, and expansions continued with a new factory in Courgenay in 1916 to support increased output. Switzerland's armed neutrality during allowed Oris to maintain uninterrupted production, focusing on durable designs suitable for military and civilian use without direct involvement in the conflict. The 1920s brought further growth and leadership changes, including the death of co-founder Georges Christian in 1927, after which Jacques-David LeCoultre acquired a and became president of the board, while Oscar Herzog assumed the role of general manager. Under their guidance, Oris expanded facilities with new factories in Herbetswil and Ziefen in 1925, enhancing production capabilities for wristwatches, including the introduction of women's models with leather straps that year. Employee numbers swelled to around 400 by , reflecting the company's rising prominence in the Swiss watch industry. In 1938, Oris innovated with the Pointer Date complication, featuring a central hand to indicate the date on the dial—a practical advancement for quick readability—and debuted the iconic Big Crown pilot's watch, designed with an oversized crown for gloved operation and military-inspired robustness. World War II posed challenges as Oris's international distribution network contracted sharply due to global disruptions, limiting annual output to approximately 200,000 watches while Switzerland upheld its neutrality to avoid invasion. To sustain operations, the company pivoted toward alarm clock production in 1940, leveraging its expertise in reliable mechanics. Despite these adaptations, Oris continued developing wristwatches with durable, utilitarian features suited to wartime needs. In the late 1940s, post-war recovery accelerated with the introduction of chronograph models, enhancing timing functions for sports and professional applications. By 1949, Oris launched an innovative eight-day power reserve alarm clock, signaling renewed focus on technical advancements and market diversification.

Post-War Expansion and Challenges (1950s–1970s)

Following the economic recovery after , Oris capitalized on surging global demand for luxury timepieces during the post-war prosperity of the , which fueled a broader expansion in Swiss watchmaking as on durable goods rose sharply. The company introduced the in 1952, its first automatic watch equipped with a power reserve indicator powered by the in-house Caliber 601, representing a significant in accessible mechanical timekeeping at the time. This model helped solidify Oris's reputation for reliable, mid-range Swiss watches amid the era's optimistic economic climate. Oris pursued international growth, notably entering the U.S. market in the through targeted distribution networks that tapped into America's burgeoning middle-class interest in European craftsmanship. By the early , the company's workforce had expanded to approximately employees, reflecting sustained in production capacity to meet rising demands. Wartime innovations in robust case designs briefly influenced the development of Oris's early sport models during this period. In the , Oris advanced its product lineup with the introduction of the line in 1965, featuring water-resistant models with unidirectional bezels suited for professional use, which built on the company's growing expertise in tool watches. To support this expansion, Oris implemented automation in key production processes, enhancing efficiency and enabling annual output to surpass 1 million units by 1970, positioning the brand among the world's top ten watch producers. These developments were bolstered by the 1966 reversal of the restrictive Swiss Watch Statute of 1934, spearheaded by Oris lawyer Dr. Rolf Portmann after a decade-long campaign, which had previously limited independent manufacturers like Oris from fully innovating beyond basic movements, allowing greater focus on and mechanical advancements. The 1970s brought mounting challenges for Oris as Japanese manufacturers intensified competition with cost-effective electronic alternatives, eroding market share in the affordable mechanical segment and signaling early pressures on traditional Swiss production models. In response, the company underwent internal restructuring to streamline operations and reinforce adherence to stringent Swiss quality standards, ensuring all movements met the rigorous criteria for Swiss Made certification. Despite these headwinds, post-war prosperity continued to underpin demand for Oris's mechanical watches, though subtle shifts toward battery-powered innovations from Asia hinted at impending industry disruptions by the decade's end.

The Quartz Crisis and Revival (1980s–1990s)

The influx of inexpensive quartz watches from Asian manufacturers, particularly Japan, triggered the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s and early 1980s, leading to a severe contraction in the Swiss watch industry where employment plummeted from around 90,000 to 28,000 workers by the mid-1980s, representing a decline of nearly two-thirds. Oris, having joined the ASUAG group (predecessor to the Swatch Group) in 1970, faced acute challenges as demand for mechanical timepieces evaporated, resulting in the temporary halt of its in-house mechanical movement production by 1981 and a drastic reduction in staff from approximately 800 employees in the late 1960s to just a few dozen by the early 1980s. This period marked a low point for Oris, with production curtailed and the company's future in jeopardy amid the broader industry's turmoil. Oris's revival began in 1982 through a led by Dr. Rolf Portmann and Ulrich W. Herzog, which restored the company's independence as Oris SA and allowed it to pivot away from the failing sector. Under this new leadership, Oris made a bold strategic decision to abandon production entirely and refocus exclusively on mechanical watches, emphasizing craftsmanship and heritage to appeal to enthusiasts seeking alternatives to mass-produced electronics. This refocus facilitated the relaunch of heritage models in the , drawing on Oris's pre-crisis legacy of innovative designs to rebuild brand identity. Key milestones in the 1990s underscored Oris's resurgence, including the 1996 reintroduction of the iconic Big Crown Pointer Date, a pilot's watch originally developed in the , which symbolized the brand's commitment to aviation heritage. To support this mechanical emphasis, Oris established partnerships with for reliable base movements, enabling the development of proprietary modules while outsourcing core components during the recovery phase. By 1999, the company had grown its workforce to around 200 employees, reflecting steady expansion driven by a strategic shift toward niche markets such as divers and pilots, where specialized, robust mechanical watches differentiated Oris from quartz-dominated competitors. This targeted approach helped Oris carve out a sustainable position in the recovering industry.

21st-Century Developments

In the early , Oris marked its year in by releasing the Oris Centennial Set 1904 Limited Edition, a collector's set featuring an Artelier Worldtimer watch limited to 1,904 pieces worldwide, alongside a historical eight-day and a book chronicling the brand's first century. This celebration underscored Oris's commitment to its mechanical heritage while signaling a period of global outreach. By the late and into the , the brand expanded its presence in , opening its first flagship store in in 2012 as part of its 13th market entry in the region, reflecting growing demand for Swiss mechanical watches in emerging economies. The 2010s saw significant technical advancements, highlighted by the 2014 launch of the Calibre 110, Oris's first fully in-house mechanical movement developed since 1981, featuring a 10-day power reserve and a patented non-linear power reserve indicator to commemorate the brand's 110th anniversary. This innovation, housed in limited-edition models like the Artelier 110 Years, marked a return to independent movement production and bolstered Oris's reputation for accessible high-performance watchmaking. Sustainability efforts gained momentum toward the decade's end, with Oris introducing eco-friendly initiatives such as straps made from recycled PET plastic and r-Radyarn materials by 2020, aligning with broader environmental goals. Entering the 2020s, Oris continued its innovation trajectory with the 2020 debut of the Calibre 400, an in-house automatic movement offering anti-magnetic properties up to 2,250 gauss, a five-day power reserve, and a 10-year , integrated into collections like the ProPilot. The brand adapted to global disruptions by enhancing digital engagement, though specific sales metrics remain proprietary. In 2023, Oris expanded partnerships, notably collaborating with on The Muppets-themed ProPilot X Kermit Edition, blending cultural pop references with its aviation heritage. By 2025, Oris released the ProPilot X Edition, further extending this whimsical partnership, while publishing its 2024 Sustainability Report detailing progress toward climate neutrality and low-carbon operations, producing just 15 tonnes of material annually.

Products and Technology

Mechanical Movements and Calibers

Oris adheres to a strict philosophy of producing exclusively mechanical watches, having phased out quartz movements entirely by the mid-1990s following the brand's revival after the of the 1970s and 1980s. This commitment stems from a 1982 that refocused the company on mechanical timepieces, emphasizing Swiss-made reliability and innovation without electronic alternatives. While Oris has developed in-house calibers since 2014, the majority of its movements are based on reliable or base calibers, such as the Sellita SW200 (an ETA 2824-2 equivalent), which are modified with custom rotors, decorations, and functional enhancements to align with Oris standards. These modifications include engraved rotors and improved finishing, ensuring durability and serviceability while maintaining affordability. Historically, Oris produced its first in-house automatic movement, Caliber 601, in 1952, featuring 17 jewels, an offset center wheel for precise timekeeping, and a rare power reserve indicator at the time. This marked a shift from earlier pin-lever escapements to more advanced lever escapements by the 1960s, as seen in the Caliber 645 (1966), which propelled Oris into high-volume automatic production. After the quartz crisis, Oris relied heavily on third-party bases until reviving in-house development with the Caliber 110 in 2014, the first such movement in 35 years, signaling a return to independent innovation. The Caliber 400, introduced in , represents Oris's flagship in-house automatic movement, measuring 30 mm in diameter with a 4 Hz (28,800 vph) beat rate and 120-hour (5-day) power reserve via twin barrels. It achieves exceptional anti-magnetism, resisting up to 2,250 gauss with less than 10 seconds per day deviation—far exceeding ISO 764 standards—through over 30 non-ferrous components and a low-friction slide bearing rotor system. Accuracy is rated at -3 to +5 seconds per day, surpassing certification, with a 10-year and service interval upon registration. In 2024, variants of the Caliber 400 powered updated diver models, including the Aquis Date Calibre 400 (43.5 mm, 300 m water resistance) and the limited-edition Hölstein Edition Divers Sixty-Five (250 pieces, no-date configuration), enhancing functionality with the movement's robust anti-magnetic properties. Complementing this, the Caliber 110, a hand-wound in-house movement launched in to mark Oris's 110th anniversary, features a 34 mm diameter, 3 Hz (21,600 vph) frequency, 177 components, 40 jewels, and a remarkable 10-day power reserve displayed via a non-linear indicator. It includes standard functions like hours, minutes, seconds, and small seconds, with a 10-year , emphasizing industrial and without complications like chronographs. These in-house advancements underscore Oris's evolution toward self-sufficient mechanical engineering, prioritizing non-magnetic materials and extended autonomy over traditional base calibers.

Key Collections

Oris's key collections are organized around thematic "worlds" that reflect the brand's heritage in mechanical watchmaking, including diving, , culture, and motorsport. These lines emphasize robust construction, innovative features, and accessibility for enthusiasts and professionals alike, with prices typically ranging from $2,000 to $5,000. The Divers collection draws from Oris's diving heritage, offering vintage-inspired timepieces with water resistance up to 100 meters, targeted at retro watch aficionados and casual divers seeking reliable, domed crystal designs powered by movements. A prominent sub-line within this category, the Aquis series modernizes the diver's watch for active lifestyles, featuring unidirectional rotating bezels, ceramic inserts, and water resistance exceeding 300 meters in many models, including lightweight variants for extended underwater use. In the aviation realm, the Big Crown collection pays homage to the original designed for pilots, characterized by an oversized screw-down crown for easy glove operation and features like pointer date complications or UTC functions, appealing to aviation enthusiasts and collectors who value legible dials and vintage aesthetics. Complementing this, the ProPilot line targets modern pilots and adventurers with durable, precision-oriented models, including oversized cases up to 47mm, altimeter-equipped variants, and GMT capabilities for global travel, often in for reduced weight and enhanced legibility. The collection, encompassing lines like Artelier, focuses on artistic and musical inspirations with elegant, rectangular or round cases suited for formal and creative settings, attracting art lovers and professionals through limited editions tied to jazz festivals and cultural events. Additionally, the Williams series delivers motorsport-themed chronographs inspired by Formula 1 partnerships, featuring tachymeter bezels and dynamic designs for racing fans, emphasizing high-performance timing in stainless steel cases.

Notable Models and Innovations

The Big Crown Pointer Date, first introduced in as a pilot's watch, features an oversized crown designed for easy manipulation with gloved hands and a distinctive central pointer hand for the date complication, making it a among enthusiasts. This model was revived in modern production by 1996, retaining its fluted bezel and signature design elements while incorporating contemporary materials like cases and crystals. The Divers Sixty-Five, originally launched in 1965, was reintroduced in 2015 as a vintage-inspired dive watch with a 40 mm case, domed crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance, evoking the era's bold exploration spirit. In the , variants like the edition expanded its appeal with playful pastel dials and recycled Perlon fabric straps, offering a lightweight alternative to traditional bracelets while maintaining 100 meters of water resistance. The Aquis Date, debuted in 2011, stands out as a robust diver's watch with 300 meters of resistance, a unidirectional rotating , and a date window at 6 o'clock, providing clear legibility for underwater use. In 2024, an updated eco-focused version of the Aquis Date Upcycle, originally introduced in 2021, incorporated a dial made from recycled sourced through partnerships like Tide , ensuring each piece has a unique marbled appearance while upholding the model's 300-meter rating and screw-down crown. Oris has introduced several innovative limited editions, including the 2017 Aquis Hammerhead Limited Edition, a 2,000-piece run with a grey dial and black bezel dedicated to conservation through the non-profit Reef Check Foundation. In 2023, the brand advanced its in-house capabilities with models featuring the fully in-house Calibre 400 movement, known for its 120-hour power reserve, high anti-magnetism up to 2,250 gauss, and 10-year warranty and service interval, integrated into dive watches like the Aquis Date Calibre 400. This model features a 43.5 mm stainless steel case, 300 m water resistance, ceramic bezel, sapphire caseback, and Super-LumiNova luminescence for enhanced legibility. A notable 2025 collaboration, the ProPilot "Mission Control" with Bamford Watch Department, combines Oris's aviation heritage with customizable black DLC coating and functionality, limited to 250 pieces.

Company Profile

Ownership and Operations

Oris is a privately held Swiss watch company that has maintained its independence since a 1982 from ASUAG (the predecessor to ) led by Ulrich W. Herzog and Dr. Rolf Portmann. The Herzog family continues to play a key role in its governance, with Claudine Gertiser-Herzog serving as co-CEO alongside Rolf Studer since 2016; the company has no corporate ties to major industry conglomerates such as or . The company's operations are centered in Hölstein, , where its headquarters and sole production facility are located, ensuring all watches are fully manufactured in in compliance with standards. As of September 2025, Oris employs approximately 258 people globally, with the majority based at the Hölstein site. Distribution occurs through a worldwide network of authorized retailers, supplemented by direct sales via the company's platform and on-site in Hölstein. Oris operates on a business model focused on mid-range mechanical watches, with retail prices generally spanning $1,500 to $5,000 to deliver accessible Swiss luxury without compromising on quality or in-house innovations. Post-2020, the company has accelerated direct-to-consumer growth through enhanced online and experiential retail channels, contributing to sustained double-digit revenue increases in recent years. Annual revenue is estimated at approximately USD 75 million as of September 2025.

Sustainability and Corporate Initiatives

Oris launched its "Change for the Better" initiative as a comprehensive program to drive and humanitarian efforts through partnerships and limited-edition watches dedicated to conservation causes. The program, which has evolved since its early iterations around 2010, emphasizes actionable support for ecological projects, including restoration and reduction, with proceeds from select models funding nonprofit organizations. By 2024, it had supported several limited editions tied to themes, such as the Aquis series in collaboration with the Coral Restoration Foundation. In terms of environmental commitments, Oris achieved climate neutrality in through verified offsetting via ClimatePartner, marking it as one of the first Swiss watchmakers to do so. The company then initiated the Oris Emissions Reduction Programme in , targeting a 10% annual reduction in global carbon emissions for three years, equivalent to a cumulative 27.1% decrease from levels. Annual sustainability reports detail progress, including a 16.5% year-on-year drop in total emissions to approximately 1,895 tonnes CO2e in 2023, surpassing the initial target through measures like energy-efficient manufacturing and optimizations. Material innovations under this framework include dials crafted from recycled PET plastic in models like the Aquis Date Upcycle, introduced in , and straps made from repurposed fishing nets via partnerships such as with Bracenet. Additionally, Oris reduced in 2024 by adopting flat-packed, fully recyclable designs, minimizing plastic use and logistics emissions. On the social front, Oris prioritizes ethical sourcing of traceable raw materials to ensure , as outlined in its reports, while supporting community-driven projects aligned with . A key example is the ongoing partnership with the since 2022, which restores oyster reefs in to improve and ; limited-edition Aquis watches, such as the 2025 New York Harbor Limited Edition II, donate proceeds to plant millions of oysters that naturally filter pollutants. Collaborations extend to NGOs like the Coral Restoration Foundation for reef propagation in and the Pacific Garbage Screening for technologies, with Oris funding direct-action initiatives through its ambassador network in over 50 countries. These efforts underscore Oris's role in fostering corporate responsibility without pursuing formal certifications like B Corp as of 2024.

Cultural Impact and Recognition

Awards and Achievements

Oris has garnered recognition in the watch industry primarily through nominations and select wins in prestigious competitions, highlighting its commitment to mechanical innovation and accessible luxury. Since the inception of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2001, Oris has received multiple nominations across various categories, underscoring the brand's consistent presence among high-end horological peers. In more recent years, Oris continued to earn GPHG nods for its in-house developments. The Aquis Date Calibre 400 was nominated in the Diver's Watch Prize category in 2021, praised for its 120-hour power reserve and anti-magnetic properties that represent a breakthrough in affordable mechanical diving watches. The same model secured another nomination in 2024, reflecting ongoing acclaim for its technical refinements. Additionally, the ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser edition was nominated in 2024 for the Challenge category, emphasizing Oris's bold fusion of titanium construction and laser-etched aesthetics in pilot's instrumentation. These nominations, while not always resulting in wins, position Oris as a reliable contender in a field dominated by larger conglomerates. In 2025, the Big Crown Pointer Date was nominated in the Time Only category. Beyond GPHG, Oris has achieved notable victories in design-focused awards. The ProPilot collection has also been lauded, with the BC4 Flight Timer earning a Red Dot Product Design Award in 2009 for its aviation-specific functionality and ergonomic case. A significant came in 2025 with Oris winning the Sports Watch category at the Timepiece World Awards for the Aquis IV Limited Edition, recognizing its contributions to sustainable watchmaking through collaborations with environmental initiatives. These accolades enhance Oris's prestige, appealing to enthusiasts who value authenticity and mechanical integrity in an era of hybrid technologies.

Partnerships and Sponsorships

Oris has maintained a longstanding partnership with the Williams Racing Formula 1 team since , serving as an official sponsor and producing co-branded timepieces that celebrate the team's heritage. This collaboration has resulted in numerous limited-edition watches, including the 2019 ChronOris Williams 40th Anniversary model, which commemorated the team's milestones and enhanced Oris's visibility in . The partnership continues to the present day, with Oris logos featured on team apparel and vehicles, underscoring the brand's commitment to precision and performance in high-speed environments. In the realm of diving and exploration, Oris appointed Ernst Bromeis as its global water ambassador in 2019, supporting his expeditions to raise awareness about water conservation through specialized diver's watches. Bromeis, an expedition swimmer, collaborated on models like the Oris Aquis Date Relief, which features a high-performance design inspired by aquatic challenges, such as his planned 800 km swim across Lake Baikal. This ambassadorship aligns Oris's technical expertise with real-world adventures, producing functional timepieces that double as tools for environmental advocacy. Oris's involvement in aviation dates to the 2010s, notably as the official timepiece sponsor of the Reno Air Races starting in 2018, where it supports the event's daredevil pilots through dedicated limited editions. Models such as the ProPilot 55th, 56th, 57th, and 58th Reno Air Races Limited Editions incorporate aviation-specific features like chronographs and GMT functions, limited to 1,000 pieces each to reflect the event's exclusivity. These partnerships emphasize Oris's heritage in pilot watches, fostering innovation in durable, legible designs for extreme conditions. On the cultural front, Oris renewed its partnership with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat (CWSS) in 2024, focusing on the conservation of the , a . This collaboration, initiated in 2021, has led to limited-edition watches like the 2023 Aquis Dat Watt Limited Edition II, which draws inspiration from the region's salt marshes and tidal ecosystems to promote heritage preservation. The initiative supports CWSS's trilateral efforts across , , and the , blending horological craftsmanship with cultural stewardship. These alliances have significantly boosted Oris's lifestyle appeal, extending beyond traditional watchmaking through co-branded models that integrate into the collection. By associating with festivals, such as the London Jazz Festival since 1996, and producing the Artelier series, Oris enhances its cultural resonance while driving innovation in themed releases.

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