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from Wikipedia
A pocket is a small bag- or envelope-shaped compartment that is either sewn into or attached to clothing, designed for carrying small items. Pockets are also found on luggage, backpacks, and similar containers. Historically, the term could also refer to a separate pouch or small bag.
Origins
[edit]
Ancient civilizations used leather or cloth pouches to store valuables.[1] The Copper Age mummy known as Ötzi (also called the "Iceman"), who lived around 3,300 BCE, wore a belt with a sewn-on pouch containing tools and materials such as a scraper, drill, flint flake, bone awl, and dried tinder fungus.[2]
In medieval Europe, early pocket-like openings called fitchets appeared in the 13th century. These vertical slits, cut into the outer tunic, allowed access to a purse or keys suspended from the girdle beneath.[3] Historian Rebecca Unsworth notes that pockets became more visible in the late 15th century,[4] and their use spread widely in the 16th century.[4]
Later, pockets were often worn like purses on a belt, concealed under a coat or jerkin to deter pickpocketing, with access through a slit in the outer garment.
By the 17th century, pockets were sewn into men's clothing, while women's remained as separate tie-on pouches hidden beneath skirts.[5][6]
The word pocket entered Middle English from a Norman diminutive of the Old French poke or pouque, related to modern poche and the English word pouch. The form "poke" is now only used in dialect, or in such proverbial sayings as "a pig in a poke".
In the 17th to 19th centuries, women's tie-on pockets—mentioned in the rhyme Lucy Locket—often carried everyday tools like scissors, pins, needles, and keys.[7][8]: 113
In modern fashion, men's clothing usually includes pockets, whereas women's clothing often has smaller or even fake ones, sometimes called Potemkin pockets after the concept of a Potemkin village. A 2018 study by the Pudding found that fewer than half of women's front pockets could fit a thin wallet, let alone a phone or keys.[9]
Types
[edit]A watch pocket or fob pocket is a small compartment originally designed to hold a pocket watch. It is sometimes found in men's trousers, waistcoats, and traditional blue jeans.[10] With the decline in pocket watch use, these pockets are now often repurposed for other small items.
A besom pocket (or slit pocket) is set into the garment rather than sewn on top. The pocket opening is reinforced—often with an extra strip of fabric or decorative stitching—and may be secured with a flap or button. Besom pockets are common on tuxedo jackets and trousers.
Camp pockets (or cargo pockets) are sewn onto the outside of the garment, typically square or rectangular with visible seams.[11][12] They are common on utilitarian clothing and outdoor gear.
A beer pocket is a small compartment within a jacket or vest sized to hold a bottle of beer. It was popular in some areas of the American Midwest during the 1910s, before Prohibition caused it to fade from fashion. The style saw minor revivals in the 1980s and early 2000s.
Examples of pocket designs
[edit]In some of the following illustrations, a folded blue handkerchief is included for illustration purposes:
-
Patch pocket with pocket square -
Patch pocket with topstitching -
J patch pocket -
Flap pocket -
Buttoned-flap patch pocket with box pleat -
Sideseam pocket -
"Smile" slit pocket with piping and arrowhead reinforcements, typical of Western wear -
Double-jetted pocket -
Stand or single-welt pocket
![Slant-front or slash pockets[13]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hosentaschen_vorne_02.svg)
![Curved inset pockets, with a coin or watch pocket on right front pocket[14]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hosentaschen_vorne_01.svg)
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ "A History of Handbags". Random History. Retrieved April 23, 2016.
- ^ "The Belt and Pouch". South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. Archived from the original on March 11, 2009. Retrieved April 23, 2016.
- ^ Cunnington, C. Willett; Cunnington, Phillis (1969). Handbook of English Medieval Costume. Plays Inc.
- ^ a b Unsworth, Rebecca (2017-09-01). "Hands Deep in History: Pockets in Men and Women's Dress in Western Europe, c. 1480–1630". Costume. 51 (2): 148–170. doi:10.3366/cost.2017.0022. ISSN 0590-8876.
- ^ "The Sexist, Political History of Pockets". Racked. Archived from the original on 13 March 2018. Retrieved 15 March 2018.
- ^ Victoria and Albert Museum, Online Museum (2012-09-17). "Wearing Pockets". www.vam.ac.uk. Retrieved 2021-01-25.
- ^ "Historic New England: Defining the Past. Shaping the Future". Spnea.org. Archived from the original on 2001-06-29. Retrieved 2009-08-20.
- ^ Weissman, Judith Reiter. (1994). Labors of love : America's textiles and needlework, 1650-1930. Lavitt, Wendy. New York: Wings Books. ISBN 0-517-10136-X. OCLC 29315818.
- ^ "Women are big losers in the politics of pockets". Financial Times. 6 November 2022. Retrieved 10 November 2022.
- ^ Levi Strauss & Co. Unzipped Team (17 April 2014). "Those Oft-Forgotten Pant Parts". Retrieved 2015-11-03.
- ^ "What is "Camp Pockets" - Definition & Explanation". Retrieved December 1, 2011.
- ^ "Glossary of fashion design terminology at Dress King". Retrieved December 1, 2011.
- ^ https://www.heddels.com/2019/06/types-pockets-pocket-dictionary/
- ^ https://www.heddels.com/2019/06/types-pockets-pocket-dictionary/
Further reading
[edit]- Picken, Mary Brooks (1957). The Fashion Dictionary. Funk and Wagnalls.
- Carlson, Hannah (2023). Pockets: An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close. New York: Algonquin Books. ISBN 978-1643751542.
- "Pockets". Fashion & Jewellery Features. Victoria and Albert Museum. Archived from the original on 2007-10-27. Retrieved 2009-11-17.
- Different Types of Pocket
External links
[edit]
Wikimedia Commons has media related to pockets.
from Grokipedia
A pocket is a small, enclosed pouch or compartment integrated into or attached to a garment, primarily designed to securely hold and transport personal items such as coins, keys, or tools.[1] Originating from medieval leather or cloth pouches tied to the waist in the 13th century, the term "pocket" entered English usage around 1450 to describe such portable sacks, whether sewn in or detachable.[2] By the 17th century, pockets transitioned to being sewn directly into men's clothing for convenience, while women predominantly relied on tie-on versions fastened beneath skirts, allowing access via slits but preserving garment silhouettes.[3] This gender disparity persisted into the 19th and early 20th centuries, as women's fashion prioritized slim lines over functionality, often omitting sewn-in pockets altogether and necessitating separate accessories like reticules; integrated pockets became standard in women's attire only with practical shifts during the World Wars and suffragette movements advocating for utilitarian designs.[4] Pockets vary widely in construction and placement, with key types including patch pockets affixed externally for visibility, flap or welt pockets offering concealed security through tailored slits, and in-seam variants hidden along garment edges for seamless integration.[5] These designs balance utility, aesthetics, and durability, influencing everything from everyday workwear to high fashion, where pocket placement and style signal craftsmanship and era-specific norms.[6]
Applied and patch pockets consist of fabric pieces sewn directly onto the exterior surface of a garment, making the pocket pouch fully visible from outside.[34] This external attachment distinguishes them from inserted types, with construction involving a shaped fabric layer finished on all edges and topstitched in place for attachment, often without internal lining for simplicity.[35] Their straightforward assembly enables quick access to contents, suiting casual and workwear applications such as shirts and jackets where visibility prioritizes function over formality.[36] In workwear, patch pockets appear on utility jackets and shirts for carrying tools or small items, as seen in vintage waxed cotton hunting jackets with reinforced external pockets for durability during outdoor labor.[1] The design's exposed stitching and added fabric layer contribute to a rugged aesthetic, historically favored in sports coats adapted for practical storage needs starting in the 19th century.[37] Flap variants incorporate a fold-over cover secured by buttons or snaps, enhancing security against loss of contents, particularly in military uniforms.[38] For instance, U.S. Army OG-107 trousers introduced in 1952 featured rear patch pockets with flaps, while shirts included upper chest patch pockets closed by buttoned flaps for field utility.[39] These elements trace to 19th-century outerwear adaptations for protection in harsh conditions.[40] Smaller reinforced patch-style pockets, such as coin or watch variants, integrate into trousers for securing valuables or tools; Levi Strauss & Co.'s 1873 patent for riveted pocket reinforcements in denim overalls addressed wear from carrying such items, with the front watch pocket designed specifically for pocket watches in early waist overalls.[41] [42] This construction ensured longevity in work settings like mining or railroading, where denim's patch pockets on seats and hips prevented tearing under load.[41]
History
Pre-Modern Origins
The earliest archaeological evidence of a pocket-like feature for carrying small tools dates to approximately 3300 BCE, as seen in the remains of Ötzi the Iceman, a Copper Age individual discovered in the Ötztal Alps. Ötzi carried a leather belt pouch containing an endscraper, borer, flint flake, tinder fungus, and other implements, demonstrating a practical, utility-driven means of securing essentials during mobility in a pre-urban environment.[7][8] In ancient Egyptian society, from around 3000 BCE onward, depictions in hieroglyphs and artifacts show men using waist-tied pouches or belts to hold small items such as tools or valuables, reflecting the need for portable storage amid daily labor and trade without integrated garment features.[9] Similar external pouches appear in Roman-era clothing by the 1st century BCE to 5th century CE, where loose garments like the toga lacked sewn pockets; items were instead tucked into fabric folds or carried in separate small pouches, prioritizing simplicity and drape over fixed compartments.[10][11] Medieval European practices from the 5th to 15th centuries continued this reliance on detachable belt pouches for coins, keys, and provisions, as evidenced by illuminated manuscripts and archaeological finds of hinged or drawstring designs worn by merchants, pilgrims, and laborers to support extended travel and hands-free utility.[12] These precursors addressed causal demands for secure, accessible carrying in agrarian and feudal contexts, where clothing layers remained voluminous and unslitted to retain warmth and modesty. Empirical textile analysis reveals the initial shift toward integrated sewn slits or bag-like enclosures in European garments by the late 15th to early 16th centuries, marking a response to evolving needs for concealed, garment-bound storage amid increasing urbanization and fabric refinement, though widespread adoption lagged until later tailoring advances.[13]Introduction of Sewn Pockets in Europe
The introduction of sewn pockets in European clothing during the 17th century represented a practical advancement in personal storage, driven by the necessities of daily life rather than aesthetic trends. Men incorporated interior pockets into garments such as padded trunk hose and knee breeches, enabling secure and immediate access to items like money, tools, and documents essential for occupational and mercantile activities.[14][15] Women, meanwhile, utilized tie-on pockets—detachable linen or fabric bags tied around the waist beneath wide skirts and accessed through horizontal slits—for carrying keys, thimbles, money, and other valuables, offering privacy and protection from theft in an era of increasing urban mobility.[3][13] These emerged prominently in the late 17th century as precursors to fully integrated sewn designs, reflecting a hands-free solution suited to layered petticoats and the demands of household management.[16] This shift coincided with Europe's commercial expansion and urbanization, where rising trade volumes and personal wealth necessitated reliable, concealed storage for growing arrays of possessions, fostering greater individualism in carrying private items without reliance on external pouches or servants.[17][13] Tie-on pockets for women persisted into the late 18th century, but the adoption of slimmer neoclassical silhouettes around the 1790s diminished their feasibility, accelerating the transition to sewn-in alternatives.[3][13] For men, sewn pockets in breeches and coats became standard by the early 1600s, aligning with the practical requirements of active professions and constant accessibility.[14][18]Evolution from the 19th Century Onward
In the nineteenth century, the introduction of crinolines in the 1850s and bustles in the 1870s and 1880s contributed to a marked decline in sewn-in pockets for women's garments, as these rigid understructures enforced slim or rear-projected silhouettes incompatible with the bulk of internal pockets, prompting greater reliance on external reticules for carrying essentials.[19][2] Concurrently, menswear saw pockets standardized through industrial manufacturing, with Levi Strauss & Co. patenting riveted reinforcements for pocket openings on May 20, 1873, in denim waist overalls designed for laborers, including a small fifth pocket for pocket watches to enhance durability under mechanical stress.[20][21] By the early twentieth century, mass production techniques further embedded pockets in menswear for trousers and jackets, reflecting empirical demands for tool and personal item storage in expanding industrial workforces. For women, pockets partially reemerged post-World War I in sportswear and utilitarian attire, as societal shifts toward active roles—such as in factories and recreation—necessitated integrated storage, evident in suffragette-inspired suits from 1910 onward that featured multiple pockets for practicality.[22] Following World War II, pockets became ubiquitous in casual and workwear across genders, propelled by proven utility in wartime mobilization and postwar leisure economies, with manufacturers like Levi Strauss extending riveted-pocket designs to women's jeans by the late 1940s. This era also witnessed a surge in garment patents addressing pocket reinforcement and placement, such as U.S. Patent 2,383,746 granted in 1945 for improved pocket constructions accommodating bulky items without sagging.[23][24]Types and Designs
Inserted and Inseam Pockets
Inseam pockets, also referred to as side-seam pockets, are constructed by integrating the pocket opening directly into the side seam of a garment, such as jeans or dresses, where the pocket bag attaches to the seam allowances without visible external features.[25] This design conceals the pocket entirely within the garment's layers, preserving a streamlined silhouette suitable for fitted clothing.[26] The pocket bag typically consists of a rectangular fabric piece sewn to the front and back panels along the seam line, allowing hand access while distributing insertion along the existing seam structure.[27] Inserted pockets, encompassing set-in or slit varieties, involve creating an opening in the garment body—often horizontal or angled—and attaching a pocket bag beneath, which may align with seams or stand independently for concealed storage in tailored pieces.[1] In formal attire like suits, these evolve into welt, jetted, or slash configurations, where narrow fabric lips or welts fold out from the slit edges to form reinforced boundaries around the opening.[28] Jetted pockets specifically utilize the suit's own fabric to create these subtle jets, minimizing bulk and enhancing the garment's clean lines, with construction demanding precise stitching to align the welts symmetrically.[29] Slash pockets, a subtype, feature diagonal or vertical slits angled for ergonomic access, commonly in suiting or outerwear, where the reinforced edges from welting prevent distortion under repeated use.[30] These concealed pocket types prioritize integration into the garment's architecture, with welted edges providing structural reinforcement that aligns with seam performance principles in apparel engineering, where bound openings reduce localized stress compared to unbound external attachments.[31] In woven fabrics, such reinforcements correlate with lower seam slippage under tension, as denser edge finishing maintains fabric integrity during fabrication and wear.[32] This suitability for fitted garments stems from their ability to avoid protruding elements, ensuring the pocket integrates seamlessly without altering the outer contour.[33]Applied and Patch Pockets
Applied and patch pockets consist of fabric pieces sewn directly onto the exterior surface of a garment, making the pocket pouch fully visible from outside.[34] This external attachment distinguishes them from inserted types, with construction involving a shaped fabric layer finished on all edges and topstitched in place for attachment, often without internal lining for simplicity.[35] Their straightforward assembly enables quick access to contents, suiting casual and workwear applications such as shirts and jackets where visibility prioritizes function over formality.[36] In workwear, patch pockets appear on utility jackets and shirts for carrying tools or small items, as seen in vintage waxed cotton hunting jackets with reinforced external pockets for durability during outdoor labor.[1] The design's exposed stitching and added fabric layer contribute to a rugged aesthetic, historically favored in sports coats adapted for practical storage needs starting in the 19th century.[37] Flap variants incorporate a fold-over cover secured by buttons or snaps, enhancing security against loss of contents, particularly in military uniforms.[38] For instance, U.S. Army OG-107 trousers introduced in 1952 featured rear patch pockets with flaps, while shirts included upper chest patch pockets closed by buttoned flaps for field utility.[39] These elements trace to 19th-century outerwear adaptations for protection in harsh conditions.[40] Smaller reinforced patch-style pockets, such as coin or watch variants, integrate into trousers for securing valuables or tools; Levi Strauss & Co.'s 1873 patent for riveted pocket reinforcements in denim overalls addressed wear from carrying such items, with the front watch pocket designed specifically for pocket watches in early waist overalls.[41] [42] This construction ensured longevity in work settings like mining or railroading, where denim's patch pockets on seats and hips prevented tearing under load.[41]