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Robe of State
Robe of State
Robe of State
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George V wearing his Robe of State at a State Opening of Parliament c.1912.

The Robe of State (also known as the Parliament Robe) is a robe worn by the British monarch on state occasions. A monarch typically has a robe made for their coronation and reuses it when attending the State Opening of Parliament at the start of each legislative session. Traditionally the robes have an ermine cape with a long train made of crimson coloured velvet, trimmed in gold lace and lined with ermine.

Use

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The Robe of State is worn by the monarch for their entrance into Westminster Abbey for their coronation. It is worn subsequently for the State Opening of Parliament and from this association derives its alternative name of Parliament Robe. Recent kings Edward VII, George V and George VI all wore the Cap of State in conjunction with the robe at their coronations but Charles III chose not to do so.[1] The Robe of State remains in place during Recognition, Acclamation, the administering of the Coronation Oath and the first part of the service of Communion.[2]

The Robe of State is removed for the Anointing ceremony, during which the monarch wears the plain Colobium sindonis ("shroud tunic") to symbolise they are divesting themselves of worldly vanity. The monarch later dons the Supertunica, Robe Royal and Imperial Robe for the final parts of the ceremony.[3] During the Coronation the monarch is enrobed by the Lord Great Chamberlain who is assisted by the Groom of the Robes and the Master of the Robes.[2]

Examples

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A new Robe of State is often commissioned ahead of each coronation. They are traditionally in the same style, a waist-length ermine cape with a long crimson velvet train, lined with ermine and trimmed in gold lace.[4]

George III's Robe of State was made by Ede and Ravenscroft and was formed of 36 yards (33 m) of red velvet and 116 yards (106 m) of gold lace and was worn over a suit made from cloth of gold. The Robe was 104 centimetres (41 in) wide and 471.5 centimetres (185.6 in) long.[5]

The Robe of State for the coronation of Queen Victoria was made by John Hunter and cost £643 8s 9d.[6] The robe was re-used by Elizabeth II for her first state opening of parliament, before she had her own robe made for her coronation.[7]

George V wore the Robe of State of his father, Edward VII, for his first state opening of parliament but a new Robe of State was made for his 1911 coronation. This was made by Wilkinsons of Maddox Street, London.[8]

The Robe of State of George VI was of crimson velvet, trimmed in ermine and with a border of gold lace.[9] The robe was draped over the King's coffin at his lying in state.[10] His grandson, Charles III, wore the same robe for his coronation. The velvet was conserved by the Royal School of Needlework, with the lining and gold lace conserved by Ede & Ravenscroft.[11]

The Robe of State for the coronation of Elizabeth II was made by Ede & Ravenscroft with embroidery designed and made by the Royal School of Needlework. The ermine used came from Canada.[1] The robe is of crimson velvet with a cape of ermine, with black fur tails. It is 18 feet 4.5 inches (5.601 m) in length and at the end of the train measures 4 feet (1.2 m) in width. The entire train is lined with ermine and the outside has a border of ermine several inches thick. There is also a border of gold lace and several ermine tails.[7] Elizabeth II's robe was used for the coronation of her daughter-in-law, Camilla, in 2023 after adjustments by Ede & Ravenscroft.[11]

See also

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References

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Robe of State

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from Grokipedia
A Robe of State is a ceremonial garment traditionally worn by the British monarch upon entering at the start of their coronation service. It consists of a long mantle featuring a crimson velvet train, typically measuring 4.5 meters in length, lined and trimmed with ermine fur, and adorned with gold lace and intricate embroidery. An ermine cape completes the ensemble, symbolizing royal authority and continuity of tradition. This robe, also known as the Parliament Robe, plays a central role in the coronation ritual, accompanying the during the , the taking of the coronation oath, the presentation of the , and the initial stages of the Communion Service, before being removed for the . It differs from the subsequent Robe of Estate—a garment worn after the and upon departure from the —which carries more personalized heraldic elements. Beyond coronations, the Robe of State is donned by the at every , underscoring its enduring function in affirming and monarchical prerogative. Historically, each reigning monarch commissions or adapts their own Robe of State, drawing on precedents from prior reigns to maintain ceremonial consistency. For instance, King Charles III's version was originally worn by his grandfather, King George VI, during the 1937 coronation and was carefully conserved by specialists including the Royal School of Needlework. Queen Camilla's counterpart, similarly in crimson velvet, was first made for Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 and adjusted for the 2023 ceremony. These robes embody centuries-old symbolism, representing royal authority and continuity of tradition.

Overview

Definition and Purpose

The Robe of State, also known as the Parliament Robe, is a long mantle or cloak worn by the British monarch during formal state ceremonies. It serves as a key element of regalia, distinct from other coronation garments like the Supertunica, which is donned later for the anointing ritual. Crafted from crimson velvet and lined with ermine, it features a capacious train. The primary purpose of the Robe of State is to symbolize the monarch's royal authority and the enduring continuity of during significant state functions, such as the entry into for coronations or the procession to the for the . By enveloping the in this ornate attire, it visually affirms their role as , bridging the ceremonial aspects of governance and tradition in the presence of and the . Historically, the Robe of State embodies the fusion of ecclesiastical and secular power inherent to the British monarchy, with its form and symbolism originating in medieval European as outlined in the 14th-century Liber Regalis for Edward II's in 1308. This garment underscores the sacred oath-taking process, where the monarch pledges to govern justly, thereby reinforcing the intertwined legacy of religious sanction and political sovereignty that has defined the institution since the .

Materials and Design Features

The Robe of State is primarily constructed from crimson red , a rich fabric that forms the body of and its expansive , typically requiring 30 to 40 yards to achieve the garment's and drape. This velvet provides a vibrant base that underscores the robe's regal appearance, while its durability supports the weight of additional trimmings. The interior and edges are lined and bordered with ermine fur, derived from the winter pelt of the , characterized by its creamy white coat accented by black tail spots, which collectively symbolize purity and in ceremonial contexts. Key design features include a long train measuring up to 15 feet (approximately 4.5 meters), which trails behind the wearer to amplify the visual grandeur and processional formality of state events. The robe's structure comprises a short ermine cape fastened at the shoulders, extending into the velvet mantle with wide borders of gold that encircle the collar, cuffs, and hem. These lace elements, often 2 to 3 inches in width, incorporate intricate gold embroidery featuring motifs such as oak leaves or heraldic symbols, evoking themes of endurance and national heritage through detailed bullion work. Over 100 yards of gold are commonly employed in this embellishment, adding substantial opulence without compromising the robe's fluid . Customization ensures each Robe of State is uniquely tailored to the , with patterns adapted to incorporate personal cyphers or era-specific heraldic devices, allowing subtle variations while adhering to traditional proportions. Crafted entirely by hand, the garment demands meticulous labor from specialist robemakers holding royal warrants, such as , who employ techniques like precise fur application and attachment to guarantee longevity and aesthetic precision across repeated ceremonial uses. This bespoke process highlights the robe's role as a tangible emblem of monarchical continuity.

Historical Development

Origins in Medieval Traditions

The robe of state emerged in the 12th to 14th centuries as a key element of English royal ceremonial attire, derived from Byzantine opulence in luxurious textiles and Norman adaptations of semicircular mantles draped over the shoulders for assemblies and processions. These early forms were influenced by the Norman Conquest's integration of continental courtly practices, where fur-lined mantles served both practical warmth and symbolic display of authority during gatherings of nobles and . A prominent early example appears in 14th-century chronicles and wardrobe accounts referencing Edward III's robes, crafted from and trimmed with miniver—the white winter belly fur of Baltic squirrels serving as an affordable substitute for ermine. These garments underscored the king's role in legislative assemblies, blending splendor with functional layering over tunics. The design of these robes drew heavily from church vestments, particularly the cope—a semi-circular hooded cloak originating from Roman precedents and adapted for ecclesiastical use—which blended royal and religious symbolism to legitimize monarchical power through shared motifs of divine authority. English embroidery techniques like opus anglicanum further linked the two, with royal mantles featuring gold-threaded borders and heraldic elements akin to those on copes. Prior to the , variations of the robe remained simpler, lacking the standardized crimson hue, and were often directly adapted from mantles traceable to the , such as those linked to the Confessor's and detailed in the Liber Regalis for II's 1308 ceremony. These included silk palliums and eagle-embroidered mantles, emphasizing continuity in ritual use across accessions and funerals.

Evolution from 18th to 21st Centuries

The Robe of State, standardized since the as described in the Liber Regalis, maintained its form during the , with George II's 1727 coronation robe crafted from crimson velvet supplied by court sources. This design incorporated an ermine cape and long train trimmed with gold lace, aligning with the era's aesthetic preferences for grandeur in ceremonial attire. By the , during the , the robe's core elements persisted, but elaborations emerged to reflect imperial themes, including intricate on related ceremonial garments with motifs symbolizing the United Kingdom's expansion. Queen Victoria's 1838 Robe of State, held in the Royal Collection, exemplified this continuity in crimson velvet construction lined with ermine, produced by specialized court tailors. In the 20th and 21st centuries, adaptations focused on practicality and sustainability while preserving tradition; post-World War II economic considerations led to reuse of components, as seen in Queen Elizabeth II's 1953 Robe of State, which featured new embroidery by the Royal School of Needlework on the standard crimson velvet and ermine base. For King Charles III's 2023 coronation, the Robe of State originally made for in 1937 was conserved and reused, incorporating eco-friendly restoration methods to maintain the design amid modern environmental priorities. Production evolved from bespoke court tailors to institutional specialists, such as for assembly and the Royal School of Needlework for detailing, with comprehensive records preserved in royal inventories dating back to the mid-18th century.

Ceremonial Uses

Role in Coronations

In British coronation ceremonies at , the is worn by the during the processional entry, marking their arrival as the and symbolizing their regal prior to the sacred rites of and . This crimson velvet garment, featuring a long train, is donned upon arrival at prior to entering through the Abbey's doors, where it is visible during the initial phases such as the Recognition and the . The robe's prominent train is typically carried by a group of selected pages or young attendants, underscoring the communal and hereditary support for ; for instance, during Queen Elizabeth II's 1953 coronation, six Maids of Honour bore the train, while King Charles III's 2023 ceremony featured four page boys, including . As the ceremony progresses, the Robe of State is removed immediately before the , a pivotal moment where the is divested of symbols of earthly power to receive holy oil on the , signifying humility and divine endorsement. Following the , the is vested in simpler garments like the Colobium Sindonis for the , then progresses to more ornate robes such as the of and the , before donning the —also known as the Robe of Estate—for the procession out of the . This of robing and disrobing ritualizes the 's transformation from secular ruler to anointed , with the initial Robe of State representing the continuity of before the spiritual core of the rite. The protocol for the Robe of State in coronations traces its formalized structure to the 14th-century Liber Regalis, a guide for Edward II's 1308 ceremony that established much of the enduring order of service, though the full tradition of English coronations at dates to William the Conqueror's in 1066. Historical accounts document the robe's role in s and its removal for across subsequent monarchs, with variations in design but consistent ceremonial function; for example, King Charles III's 2023 adhered to this ancient protocol, entering the Abbey in the Robe of State originally made for King George VI while echoing medieval precedents. Queen consorts participate in a parallel protocol, wearing their own Robes of State upon arrival at the to complement the monarch's attire, though these are often adapted from prior examples rather than always newly made. In the 2023 ceremony, entered in the Robe of State originally crafted for Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, which was modified with embroidered emblems of her family and charities, before its removal prior to her own and subsequent in the Robe of Estate for departure. This practice maintains symmetry in the while reflecting the consort's supportive in the rite.

Role in State Openings of Parliament

The Robe of State is a pivotal element in the , the annual ceremony inaugurating a new session of the UK Parliament and affirming the 's constitutional role. Upon arrival at the Palace of Westminster via a state coach procession from , the enters through the Sovereign's Entrance and proceeds directly to the Robing Room. There, attendants assist in donning the Robe of State—a long crimson velvet mantle lined with ermine fur and edged with intricate gold lace—alongside the . This attire, evoking centuries of regal splendor, prepares the sovereign for the formal proceedings. Once attired, the leads a stately from the Robing Room through the Royal Gallery and Prince's Chamber into the , accompanied by peers, bishops, judges, and royal officials bearing the , , and other regalia. Seated on the , the delivers the King's or Queen's Speech, outlining the government's legislative agenda for the coming year. The robe's flowing train and rich fabrics enhance the pageantry, symbolizing the enduring bond between and while the summons Members of the Commons, perpetuating rituals that date back to the and predate pivotal events like Charles I's 1642 attempt to arrest MPs. The Robe of State establishes a clear in the chamber, complementing the parliamentary robes worn exclusively by and Temporal on this occasion. These peer robes, crafted from crimson scarlet cloth with three-inch-wide ermine bars and two-inch-wide gold oak leaf lace, mirror the monarch's garment in material and color but in a standardized form that underscores the sovereign's preeminence. This unified yet differentiated attire fosters a sense of ceremonial order, highlighting the monarch's position atop the constitutional framework. In contemporary practice, the full ceremony recurs annually, though it has been scaled back during national emergencies for security and practicality; during the Second World War, for instance, elements were minimized or relocated to safer venues like Church House to avoid air raid risks. Queen Elizabeth II's Robe of State, specially commissioned for her 1953 coronation from crimson velvet woven at Lullingstone Castle with Canadian ermine and gold lace embroidery, was reused across her 70-year reign for State Openings, exemplifying efficient tradition in modern times.

Notable Examples

George III's Robe of State

George III's Robe of State, commissioned around 1760, was crafted by the renowned tailors shortly after the king's accession to the throne. The garment utilized 36 yards of crimson velvet for its mantle, adorned with 116 yards of broad gold lace for elaborate decoration, and featured a full ermine trim including a waist-length cape fastened with white silk satin ribbons. These materials exemplified the lavish craftsmanship expected for royal ceremonial attire during the , with the crimson velvet providing a rich base and the gold lace adding intricate borders and accents. The robe saw extensive use throughout George III's reign, debuting at his coronation ceremony in on 22 September 1761. It was subsequently worn by the king at numerous State Openings of Parliament, underscoring its role in formal parliamentary proceedings. The garment remained in active service into the early , enduring the demands of repeated ceremonial wear until the end of George III's long reign in 1820, after which it transitioned to archival storage. Distinctive elements of the robe included its heavy gold lace embroidery, which formed opulent borders and patterns along the edges, complemented by the luxurious ermine fur for both the and mantle trim. Measuring approximately 471.5 cm in length and 104 cm in width when laid flat, the robe embodied the grandeur of 18th-century British monarchy through its substantial scale and fine detailing. Today, George III's Robe of State is preserved within the Royal Collection Trust, where it is maintained as a key artifact of royal history, available for study and public viewing under the organization's conservation efforts.

20th and 21st Century Examples

Queen Elizabeth II's Robe of State, crafted specifically for her 1953 , consisted of crimson velvet lined with Canadian ermine and adorned with gold lace. This robe was worn by the Queen during her coronation procession to and subsequently at numerous State Openings of throughout her 70-year reign, demonstrating its enduring ceremonial role until its final use in her lifetime. For King 's 2023 coronation, the Robe of State was the crimson velvet garment originally made for his grandfather, King George VI, in 1937, which was carefully conserved and adjusted by robemakers at Ede and Ravenscroft to fit the occasion. The Royal School of Needlework conserved the robe while maintaining its gold lace and ermine trim. This reused robe was first worn by during the procession to on May 6, 2023, underscoring continuity in monarchical symbolism. Queen Camilla, as consort, wore a scaled-down adaptation of Elizabeth II's 1953 Robe of State for the 2023 coronation, featuring the same crimson velvet and ermine elements, conserved and slightly modified by Ede and Ravenscroft for her use. This choice highlighted the partnership between the King and , with the robe's design echoing the grandeur of past consorts while aligning with the ceremony's emphasis on shared sovereignty. In the 20th and 21st centuries, a notable trend in the use of Robes of State has been a deliberate shift toward through the and conservation of historic garments rather than commissioning entirely new ones, as evidenced by the 2023 decisions for both the King and . These robes are now stored in climate-controlled facilities managed by to preserve their delicate fabrics and embroidery for future ceremonies.

References

  1. https://www.royal.uk/news-and-activity/2023-04-29/a-first-glimpse-at-their-majesties-coronation-robes
  2. https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/secular-ceremonies-and-rituals/robe-of-state-uk
  3. https://royalcentral.co.uk/features/what-is-the-robe-of-state-187427/
  4. https://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/Coronation-Robes/
  5. https://www.parliament.uk/about/how/occasions/stateopening/
  6. https://www.rct.uk/collection/stories/coronations-an-ancient-ceremony
  7. https://www.rct.uk/collection/75083/george-iiis-robe-of-state-parliamentary-robe
  8. https://handembroidery.com/blogs/threads/king-charles-coronation-embroidery
  9. https://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/id/eprint/2497/1/DX212138.pdf
  10. https://world4.eu/norman-fashion/
  11. https://referenceworks.brill.com/view/entries/EMDO/SIM-000963.xml
  12. https://brill.com/display/book/9789004352162/BP000012.xml
  13. https://historyofparliament.com/2023/04/25/coronation-of-george-ii-and-queen-caroline-11-october-1727/
  14. https://www.rct.uk/collection/75033
  15. https://www.rct.uk/collection/75036/queen-victorias-robe-of-state-parliamentary-robe-train
  16. https://royal-needlework.org.uk/our-history/
  17. https://recollections.biz/blog/coronation-robes-a-brief-history/
  18. https://www.royal.uk/news-and-activity/2023-05-06/the-coronation-service-order-of-service
  19. https://www.coronationroll.gov.uk/further_info/robe-of-state/
  20. https://www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london/history-and-stories/coronations-past-and-present/
  21. https://debretts.com/royal-family/coronation/the-coronation-of-queen-elizabeth-ii/
  22. https://www.royal.uk/state-opening-of-parliament
  23. https://researchbriefings.files.parliament.uk/documents/CBP-9501/CBP-9501.pdf
  24. https://www.parliament.uk/about/faqs/house-of-lords-faqs/lords-stateopening/
  25. https://historyofparliament.com/2016/05/18/sartorial-history-of-the-state-opening-of-parliament/
  26. https://commonslibrary.parliament.uk/research-briefings/cbp-9501/
  27. https://royal-needlework.org.uk/coronation/coronation-of-charles-iii/
  28. https://www.royal.uk/coronation-guide
  29. https://www.cnn.com/style/article/queen-camilla-coronation-outfit-meaning
  30. https://people.com/royals/king-charles-queen-camilla-coronation-robes-rings-regalia/
  31. https://www.cbsnews.com/news/king-charles-coronation-reusing-golden-robes-worn-by-predecessors/
  32. https://theconversation.com/how-king-charles-iiis-coronation-robes-and-other-historical-garments-are-conserved-204836
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