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Gerda Wegener
Gerda Wegener
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Gerda Marie Fredrikke Wegener (née Gottlieb; 15 March 1885 – 28 July 1940) was a Danish illustrator and painter. Wegener is known for her fashion illustrations and later her paintings that pushed the boundaries of her time concerning gender and love. These works were classified as lesbian erotica at times and many were inspired by her partner, transgender painter Lili Elbe.[1] Wegener employed these works in the styles of Art Nouveau and later Art Deco.[1]

Key Information

Gerda Wegener also drew a few comics.[2]

Early life

[edit]

Gottlieb was born in Hammelev, Denmark to Justine (née Østerberg) and Emil Gottlieb, a vicar in the Lutheran church. She was raised in a conservative milieu.[3] She had three siblings but was the only child to live to adulthood. Her family moved to Hobro and later she moved to Copenhagen to pursue her education at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts.[1]

Styles and influences

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Wegener's work was often of confident and elegant women performing a variety of activities in either a Renaissance inspired style, Art Nouveau or Art Deco style. The images tended to show women posing or participating in artistic endeavors such as theatre, literature, and dance.[4] Later on in France, Wegener created work showing women displaying seductive power or engaging in sexual activities.[1] This risqué art was considered "lesbian erotica" and published in illicit art books.[1]

Along with shifting how women are represented in art, Wegener also challenged gender and sex identity roles in her work.[1] She did this in small ways, such as drawing men with slender bodies and soft lines, or by painting her transgender partner, Lili Elbe.[1]

Career

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Early career

[edit]
Portrait of Ellen von Kohl (1906)

Gottlieb's work was shown in the Charlottenborg Art Gallery in 1904, but she gained little attention for her artwork. Her career as an artist began to mobilize after graduating from the Academy in 1907 and 1908 when she made appearances in the Politiken newspaper.[1] She then was the center of a controversy called the Peasant Painter Dispute after one of her 1906 works, Portrait of Ellen von Kohl, was rejected from the exhibitions of Den frie Udstilling and Charlottenborg due to the style of the piece.[1] This piece caused concerns of Italian Renaissance plagiarism and split opinions of it showing a weak individual or an elegant beautiful woman.[1] Gottlieb never became involved in the debate.[1] The portrait was displayed by the Winkel and Magnussen's art dealership and received attention that boosted her career as an artist.[1]

Copenhagen, Denmark

[edit]

Wegener won two sketching competitions in the Politiken newspaper.[1] One was in 1908 and another in 1909 for best capturing "Copenhagen Women" and then "The figures of the Street."[1] Wegener was known for her illustrations created for advertisements and was also a portrait painter. She did art in Paris, but was less successful in Denmark, where people found her work very different and strange as it often portrayed her husband as a woman.[5]

Paris, France

[edit]

In 1912, Wegener and her partner, Lili Elbe, moved to Paris, France.[4] In Paris, Wegener began to push the boundaries in her artwork by creating more provocative paintings of women engaged in sexual activities and seductive positions.[5] She often painted herself with Lili Elbe or Lili alone either portrayed as a man or a woman.[1] Her work gained her attention and she was able to throw parties and experience notorious fame.[5] Along with this, her work in the fashion industry took off as she illustrated for magazines such as La Baïonnette, Fantasio, Vogue, and La Vie Parisienne.[4] Her illustrations were used in a wide range of platforms from beauty advertisements to political anti-German images in the Le Matin and the La Baïonnette during World War II.[4] In 1925, she won two gold medals and a bronze one for her artwork in competition at the 1925 World's Fair in Paris.[3] She was exhibited in the Salon des Humoristes, the Salon des Indépendants, and the Salon d’Automne.[4] She befriended Ulla Poulsen (1905–2001), a Danish ballerina, who became a frequent model for her paintings[citation needed]. She and her spouse were also close friends with artist Rudolph Tegner and his wife Elna.[citation needed]

Personal life

[edit]

Lili Elbe

[edit]
Lili Elbe by Gerda Wegener, c. 1928

She met fellow artist Lili Elbe – then known as Einar Wegener – at art school.[6] They married in 1904, when Gerda was 18 and Lili was 22.[7] They travelled through Italy and France, eventually settling in Paris in 1912. The couple immersed themselves in the Bohemian lifestyle of the time, befriending many artists, dancers and other figures from the artistic world, often attending carnivals and other public festivals. [citation needed]

During this time Elbe began to wear female clothing, and adopted her female name and persona,[8] becoming Gerda Wegener's favourite model, in paintings of beautiful women with haunting almond-shaped eyes dressed in chic fashions. In 1913, the art world was shocked when they learned that the model who had inspired her depictions of petite femmes fatales was in fact her "husband".[7]

As Elbe adopted her female identity, Gerda Wegener commonly introduced her as Einar Wegener's cousin when she was dressed in female attire.[9] In 1930 Elbe underwent one of the first sex reassignment surgeries.[5] As Danish law at the time did not recognize marriage between two women, their marriage was annulled in October 1930 by King Christian X.[5][1] Elbe died in 1931 from complications of the surgery.[5]

Later life and death

[edit]

In 1931, Wegener married Italian officer, aviator, and diplomat Major Fernando Porta and moved with him to Morocco.[1] She divorced him in 1936 and returned to Denmark in 1938 for unknown reasons.[5][1] Wegener held her last exhibition in 1939, but by this time, her artwork was out of style as the simpler Functionalism had become more popular in the 1930s.[1] She had no children, lived by herself in relative obscurity, and began to drink heavily.[10] She faced financial instability and kept an income by selling hand-painted postcards.[5]

She died on 28 July 1940, in Frederiksberg, Denmark, shortly after Nazi Germany invaded the country.[7] Her small estate was auctioned, and there was only a small obituary printed in the local paper.[7]

Book and film

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A 1925 Gerda Wegener painting of two women engaged in sexual activity in bed.

Over the years, beginning with the literary success of a book about her and Elbe's life together, and further with the release of a movie based on the book, the story of the couple gained a cult following in Denmark and around the world. Their artwork has been rediscovered, and exhibited and auctioned with success. A special exhibition of Gerda Wegener's work was on display at the Arken Museum of Modern Art until January 2017, followed by a travelling exhibit of her art shown around the world.[11]

The Danish Girl, David Ebershoff's 2000 novel about Gerda and Lili, was an international best-seller and was translated into a dozen languages.[citation needed] Gerda Wegener is portrayed by Swedish actress Alicia Vikander in the 2015 film The Danish Girl, also starring British actor Eddie Redmayne as Lili Elbe. The film received some criticism for obscuring the actual story of a historical trans person and omitting certain facts[12] and for being based on a fictional book that does not tell the true story of the couple.[13] The topic of Gerda Wegener's own sexuality, which she never talked about publicly, is not mentioned in the film or book.[14][15][16]

Select works illustrated by Wegener

[edit]
Two Mermaids, 1918
Madonna and Child, surrounded by musical angels, 1935
Les femmes fatales
  • Den skønne Ubekendte by Andreas Winding (1912)
  • L'Anneau ou La Jeune fille imprudente by Louis de Robert (1913)
  • Amour Etrusque by J.-H. Rosny aîné (1914)
  • Les Aventures amoureuses d'Eustache Leroussin by Daniel Barrias (1914)[17]
  • Le Peplos vert by Maurice de Waleffe (1915)
  • Les Colombes poignardées by Maurice Magre (1917)
  • La Guerre est morte by Louis Delluc (1917)
  • Le Journal de Marinette by une Femme curieuse (1917)
  • La Petite faunesse by Charles Derennes (1918)
  • La Tendre Camarade by Maurice Magre (1918)
  • L'Abdication de Ris-Orangis by Léo Larguier (1918)
  • Contes de mon Père le Jars by Eric Allatini (1919)
  • Le Parfait Suiveur by Maurice Magre (1919)
  • Le Livre des vikings by Charles Guyot (1924)
  • Douze sonnets lascifs by Louis Perceau (1925) - accompanied by the suite of aquarelles Les Délassements d'Éros
  • Une Aventure d'amour à Venise by Giacomo Casanova (1927)
  • La Mythologie (1928) - album of twelve plates
  • Les Contes by La Fontaine (1928–1929)
  • Sur Talons rouges by Eric Allatini (1929)
  • l'Œuvre du Divin Arétin (1930–1931) - suite of twelve color engravings
  • Fortunio by Théophile Gautier (1934)

References

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Literature

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  • Elbe, Lili (1933) [1931]. Hoyer, Niels (ed.). Man into Woman: An Authentic Record of a Change of Sex. Translated by Stenning, H.J. Introduction by Norman Haire. London: Jarrold Publishers. Editor Niels Hoyer is a pseudonym for E. Harthern. Originally published in Danish as Fra mand til kvinde.
    • Elbe, Lili (2004). Man into Woman: The First Sex Change, a Portrait of Lili Elbe—The True and Remarkable Transformation of the Painter Einar Wegener. London: Blue Boat Books.
  • Gether, Christian; Høholt, Stine; Karberg, Andrea Rygg; Martinussen, Amalie Grubb, eds. (2015). Gerda Wegener. Denmark: Arken Museum of Modern Art. ISBN 978-87-7875-112-6.
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia

Gerda Marie Fredrikke Wegener (née Gottlieb; 15 March 1885 – 28 July 1940) was a Danish painter and illustrator recognized for her fashion sketches and portraits emphasizing feminine allure and eroticism in an Art Deco style.
Born in Hammelev, Denmark, to a pastor's family, she trained at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen before marrying landscape painter Einar Wegener in 1904 and moving to Paris in 1912, where she gained prominence illustrating for magazines like Vogue and La Vie Parisienne.
Wegener's career advanced through depictions of her husband posing in women's attire as the model "Lili," which initially boosted her popularity under the misconception that Lili was a separate woman; this dynamic evolved as Einar pursued experimental surgical procedures in Germany and Denmark during the late 1920s and early 1930s to live as Lili Elbe, culminating in their divorce in 1930 after Lili's death from surgical complications.
Her later works, including lesbian-themed erotica and mythological scenes like Two Mermaids, reflected a liberated exploration of sexuality amid Paris's avant-garde circles, though her recognition waned post-World War I until renewed interest in the 21st century.

Early Life and Education

Family Background and Childhood

Gerda Marie Fredrikke Gottlieb was born on March 15, 1886, in Hammelev, a small rural village near Grenå on the peninsula in . She grew up in a conservative Lutheran household as the daughter of a , in an environment shaped by rural traditions and religious discipline that prioritized conventional social roles and family stability. Her family traced Huguenot ancestry through her father and maintained strict adherence to Protestant values amid the limited opportunities of provincial life. As the sole sibling to reach adulthood—her three brothers died in infancy or childhood— experienced a sheltered yet rigid upbringing that reinforced expectations of deference to authority and norms typical of late-19th-century Danish rural . Early signs of her nonconformity emerged through nascent artistic inclinations, which prompted her, at around age 16, to relocate independently to , defying the insular family dynamics and prompting a break from the conservative milieu that had defined her formative years. This departure highlighted an innate drive for , contrasting sharply with the doctrinal conformity of her Lutheran heritage and foreshadowing her later rejection of provincial constraints.

Formal Training and Early Recognition

Gerda Gottlieb, born in 1886, demonstrated artistic talent early and convinced her parents to allow her to pursue formal studies in , enrolling in 1902 at the women's course of the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts. This institution, known for its rigorous traditional curriculum emphasizing drawing, anatomy, and classical techniques, admitted few women, underscoring the barriers female artists faced in early 20th-century . She trained there for several years, developing foundational skills in painting and illustration under academicians focused on realist and historical genres. During her academy years, Gottlieb honed her abilities in portraiture and figurative drawing, producing works that showcased technical proficiency in rendering human forms and attire. By 1904, she achieved initial public exposure through an exhibition of her pieces at Kunsthal Charlottenborg, Denmark's primary venue for displays affiliated with the academy. A pivotal milestone came in 1907 when she secured first prize in a drawing competition sponsored by the newspaper , submitting an Art Nouveau-inspired depiction of the feminine ideal that highlighted her emerging style in elegant, stylized female figures. This victory provided early validation of her illustrative talents, particularly in capturing fashionable and idealized women, and boosted her visibility in Danish artistic circles prior to broader commercial pursuits. That same year, her portrait Ellen von Kohl ignited the "Peasant Painter Feud," a national debate on artistic representation of rural versus urban subjects, further cementing her presence in public discourse on modern .

Artistic Styles and Influences

Development from Art Nouveau to Art Deco


Gerda Wegener initially adopted Art Nouveau principles in her early fashion illustrations during the 1900s, employing curvilinear lines and decorative motifs to depict elongated, graceful female figures in elegant attire. This style emphasized fluidity and ornamentation, aligning with the era's aesthetic preferences for natural, organic forms integrated into visual compositions.
Following her relocation to in , Wegener's visual language transitioned toward by the , incorporating geometric precision, streamlined shapes, and bold, vibrant colors that conveyed a sense of modernity. This evolution mirrored broader cultural shifts toward streamlined design and the archetype of the independent "New Woman," characterized by shorter hairstyles, fitted garments, and assertive postures. Throughout this progression, Wegener maintained a focus on portraying confident women in dynamic poses, grounding her representations in direct observation of human anatomy and contemporary fashion details rather than abstract idealization. Her compositions prioritized empirical accuracy in proportions and textiles, ensuring depictions reflected observable realities of form and movement.

Key Artistic Influences and Techniques

Gerda Wegener's artistic approach was shaped by the intricate, decadent line work of , whose influence is evident in her erotic illustrations featuring sinuous contours and provocative compositions that evoked masked sensuality without overt grotesquerie. This adoption of Beardsley's aesthetic, rooted in and early , allowed Wegener to infuse her depictions of female subjects with a layered derived from precise, flowing lines rather than abstracted symbolism. Complementing these influences, Wegener drew from portraiture traditions, utilizing dramatic lighting contrasts and poised, expressive gestures to render female forms with anatomical fidelity and psychological depth, prioritizing observable proportions over stylized distortion. Her techniques emphasized and watercolor media, applied in thin, translucent layers to produce luminous skin tones and textured fabrics that mimicked the sheen of fashion plates, enabling a tactile realism in illustrations often commissioned for periodicals. Wegener integrated contemporary and advertising motifs, adapting photographic posing and commercial vibrancy into her oeuvre through highlights and subtle color gradients that enhanced dynamics and partial nudity, grounding erotic suggestion in empirical observation of light on form rather than prescriptive narratives. This method, employing pochoir-like precision in some preparatory sketches, facilitated reproducible detail for mass-market appeal while maintaining hand-crafted subtlety in final pieces.

Professional Career

Initial Work in Denmark

Following completion of her studies at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, Gerda Wegener commenced her professional output in Denmark around 1904, initially exhibiting at Kunsthal Charlottenborg with modest reception. She produced portraits and sketches, including the Portrait of Ellen von Kohl completed in 1906, which depicted a bourgeois sitter in a stylized manner blending modern elegance with folk elements. This work provoked the "Peasant Painter Feud," a public controversy in the newspaper Politiken decrying its perceived excess and vulgarity, leading to its rejection from exhibitions at Kunsthal Charlottenborg and Den Frie Udstilling. Wegener's breakthrough came in 1907 when she won a drawing contest organized by Politiken, elevating her visibility and securing her as a regular contributor to the publication. In 1908, she triumphed again in another Politiken competition themed "Copenhagen Woman," solidifying her role as an illustrator and cartoonist focused on female subjects. Amid constraints on female artists, who faced barriers in traditional genres, Wegener specialized in fashion illustrations for newspapers and nascent advertising, crafting aspirational depictions of bourgeois women in contemporary attire. Her Danish works emphasized refined, elongated figures influenced by , establishing a niche in elegant portraiture and sketches that captured societal aspirations, though conservative tastes limited broader acclaim compared to her later international efforts. These press commissions formed the core of her early productivity, with informal modeling support from her husband aiding female figure studies, yet her independent illustrations drove professional sustainability.

Paris Period and Commercial Success

In 1912, Gerda Wegener relocated to with her husband, integrating into the city's international bohemian circles centered in , where she began capitalizing on the growing demand for fashion-oriented artwork amid the prewar cultural vibrancy. Her illustrations quickly gained traction in prominent periodicals, including La Vie Parisienne, Journal des Dames et des Modes (with contributions in 1914 alongside leading figures like George Barbier), Fantasio, and Femina, establishing her as a sought-after delineator of elegant, modern femininity. Wegener's commercial output expanded significantly during the and , encompassing high-volume sketches and commissions for apparel, , and related products such as perfumes (e.g., Forvil) and women's accessories like powders and stockings, which provided her with —a rarity for female artists in that era. This success aligned with the exuberance of Les Années Folles, as her depictions of liberated urban women in contemporary attire met the era's appetite for aspirational imagery in magazines and promotional materials. Complementing her illustrative work, Wegener exhibited paintings and drawings at major Parisian venues, including regular showings at the and Salon des Indépendants throughout the 1920s and 1930s, with surviving exhibition records confirming her integration into the commercial art market. In 1925, she received two gold medals at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts for her stained-glass windows and illustrations, underscoring her market viability and prompting acquisitions by institutions like the , which incorporated three of her works into its collection during this period.

Mature Phase and Exhibitions

In the 1930s, following the of her first husband in 1931, Gerda Wegener produced paintings that incorporated mythological and religious motifs, such as Les Femmes Fatales (1933) and Madonna med barn, omgivet af musicerende engle (1935), reflecting a turn toward more symbolic and introspective compositions amid her personal circumstances. She maintained her aesthetic, characterized by stylized figures and decorative elegance, while continuing to create portraits and illustrations. Wegener exhibited regularly in during this decade, participating in the and Salon des Indépendants, where her works were displayed alongside those of other decorative artists. Her contemporary reception highlighted technical skill in rendering feminine forms and fashion, yet her reliance on commercial illustration commissions for publications like Vogue and La Vie Parisienne drew critiques from some art circles for favoring market-driven ornamentation over modernist experimentation, as tastes shifted toward Functionalism. By the late , her visibility waned, culminating in relative obscurity at her death in in July 1940. Posthumous exhibitions have revived interest in her oeuvre, particularly her Deco-era pieces. The 2016 retrospective at Arken Museum of Modern Art in presented over 100 works spanning her career, marking the largest such show to date and emphasizing her contributions to gender representation in art. In 2022, Planting Fields Arboretum in , hosted "Fashioning Desire: The Art of Gerda Wegener," featuring approximately 60 paintings, drawings, and illustrations that underscored her celebration of the "" through sensuous, independent female figures. Recent auction results, including museum acquisitions at Bruun Rasmussen, demonstrate persistent market demand for her decorative works, with strong sales reflecting appreciation for her illustrative precision.

Personal Relationships

Marriage to Einar Wegener

Gerda Wegener, born Gerda Marie Fredrika , married fellow Danish Magnus Andreas Wegener on July 3, 1904, following their meeting at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in . , a landscape painter born in 1882, shared Wegener's commitment to art, and their union began as a supportive partnership centered on mutual creative pursuits. The couple resided in , maintaining a modest lifestyle sustained primarily by Wegener's earnings from fashion illustrations and book commissions, as 's landscape works yielded limited commercial success. Within their early marital dynamics, assisted Wegener by posing in women's clothing for her illustrations, which emphasized female subjects and required suitable models; this served a pragmatic artistic function rather than indicating deeper personal motivations at the time. Their shared living and working space fostered collaboration in daily routines, though each retained distinct professional identities—Wegener in portraiture and , Einar in landscapes. In 1912, the Wegeners relocated to , drawn by its vibrant expatriate art scene and freer cultural atmosphere compared to conservative . There, they integrated into bohemian circles while upholding professional separation, with Wegener advancing her illustrative career and Einar continuing painting independently. This move marked a transition to more cosmopolitan influences without altering the foundational structure of their marriage.

Einar's Cross-Dressing and Identity Shift

Einar Wegener's originated as a practical substitution for female models in Gerda Wegener's paintings, beginning early in their marriage in when a scheduled sitter, Anna Larsen, failed to appear for a session. Gerda dressed in women's clothing, including a and makeup, which proved effective for her artistic needs, marking the initial step in what would become a profound personal transformation. This arrangement evolved after their relocation to around 1912, where Einar's modeling in female attire contributed to Gerda's depictions of slender, feminine figures, initially treated as a collaborative convenience without public disclosure of the model's identity. During these sessions, experienced an unanticipated affinity for the attire, describing a sense of natural fit and enjoyment in the soft fabrics, which sparked the emergence of a distinct . Anna Larsen, upon seeing in this guise, dubbed him "Lili," a name that persisted and deepened into a private identity separate from his male self. Gerda accommodated and encouraged this development, integrating Lili as her preferred model and social companion, which aligned with the artistic benefits observed in her increasingly popular works featuring such figures. 's adoption of the Lili grew privately, involving reluctance to discard feminine clothing and a burgeoning independence in embodying this role among Gerda's circle. Over time, particularly by the mid-1920s, reported mounting psychological distress, perceiving himself as comprising two conflicting entities—his male identity and the dominant Lili—leading to from male social and professional obligations. Diary entries reflect this inner turmoil as a sensation of imprisonment in the male form, with Lili's presence evoking both exhilaration and despair when suppressed. Gerda continued to support these shifts, managing social introductions of Lili as 's "cousin" and aiding in consultations with medical professionals amid the era's rudimentary understandings of gender variance, often framed in terms of psychological or glandular anomalies rather than established diagnostics. By the late 1920s, sought validation from specialists in , documenting hopes for resolution to the persistent conflict between his perceived female essence and outward male presentation.

Lili Elbe's Surgeries and Divorce

In 1930, Lili Elbe underwent a series of experimental surgeries at Magnus Hirschfeld's Institute for Sexual Science in , starting with an to remove the testes, followed by and rudimentary attempts, as part of efforts to align physical form with her self-identified gender. These procedures, conducted without antibiotics or effective immunosuppressants, carried high risks of infection and rejection, emblematic of the era's limited understanding of hormonal dependencies and tissue compatibility in cross-sex interventions. Gerda Wegener provided initial emotional and logistical support for Elbe's transition, including accompanying her to consultations, but the profound changes and relational pressures culminated in the Danish king's of their marriage, formalized on October 6, 1930, to comply with legal requirements precluding same-sex unions at the time. Subsequent operations in included an ovarian transplant, which failed to establish endocrine stability or reproductive function, underscoring immutable biological sex differences beyond surgical alteration. A final transplant in June 1931 provoked acute organ rejection, triggering systemic infection and in the pre-antibiotic context, leading to Elbe's death from on September 13, 1931, mere months after the procedure. No enduring physiological viability or was realized, as the interventions exposed fundamental incompatibilities between male-derived anatomy and transplanted female organs, with outcomes reflecting high mortality in early 20th-century attempts at such transformations.

Later Life and Death

Remarriages and Morocco Period

In 1931, following the of her previous marriage, Gerda Wegener wed Major Fernando Porta, an Italian officer, aviator, and born in 1896. The union prompted her relocation to , where Porta held diplomatic postings, allowing Wegener access to new environments for artistic inspiration amid her evolving personal circumstances. During her time in Morocco, spanning the early to mid-1930s, Wegener shifted toward , capturing local scenes such as desert vistas, pine-dotted terrains, and village views that reflected Orientalist influences blended with her style. Notable works include Moroccan Landscape with a Man and A Moroccan Landscape with Pine Trees, produced as she adapted to the region's climate and culture while maintaining her focus on fluid, decorative forms. This period marked a geographic and stylistic pivot, prioritizing environmental immersion over prior portraiture, though her output declined amid relational strains and financial pressures from the marriage. The marriage dissolved in divorce by 1936, after which Wegener returned to in 1938, embracing greater independence in her later years. Her choices underscored a commitment to , navigating partnerships and residences on terms aligned with her bisexual inclinations—evident in earlier Parisian correspondences and erotic works—over societal expectations, though specific post-divorce involvements remained private.

Final Years and Circumstances of Death

Following her return to Denmark in the late , Wegener lived alone in relative obscurity, without children, and struggled financially as her artistic style fell out of favor. She held her final exhibition in in 1939. The German invasion of on April 9, 1940, compounded her isolation from prior European art circles amid the escalating . Wegener died on July 28, 1940, in , , at age 55. She was buried in Solbjerg Park Cemetery in , where her grave marker has since deteriorated and become difficult to locate. Her small estate was auctioned posthumously, with artworks sold at low prices and scattered among collectors until later rediscovery.

Legacy and Reception

Artistic Impact and Posthumous Recognition

Gerda Wegener's illustrations and paintings contributed to the movement's emphasis on stylized femininity, particularly through depictions of confident, elegantly dressed women that aligned with the era's shifting social norms in . Her work in fashion magazines like Journal des Dames et des Modes alongside contemporaries such as George Barbier showcased a refined aesthetic, influencing commercial illustration by prioritizing poised, androgynous figures over rigid traditionalism. Posthumous exhibitions have highlighted her technical skill in rendering the female form with empathetic precision, as seen in the 2022 "Fashioning Desire: The Art of Gerda Wegener" at Planting Fields in , which displayed over 60 works and drew attention to her role in elevating women's visibility in during the . Auction records reflect increasing market valuation, with realized prices reaching up to approximately 113,000 USD for select pieces, indicating sustained collector interest driven by her historical context in libertine Parisian circles rather than retrospective ideological reinterpretations. Scholarship attributes to Wegener a pioneering "" in portraiture, fostering greater representation of autonomous women in commercial media without succumbing to contemporaneous male-dominated perspectives, though empirical evidence of direct causal influence on subsequent artists remains tied to stylistic echoes in mid-20th-century fashion graphics. This recognition underscores her contributions to Deco-era commercial art's democratization, where technical virtuosity in and ornamentation supported women's economic agency in .

Media Portrayals: Man into Woman and The Danish Girl

Man into Woman, published in Danish in 1931 and in English translation in 1933, was compiled by editor Niels Hoyer (pseudonym of Ernst Harthern) from Lili Elbe's diaries, letters, and personal recollections, presenting a narrative that romanticizes her transition as a triumphant personal awakening while minimizing the physical agonies and surgical risks involved. The account depicts Gerda Wegener as an unwavering artistic collaborator and emotional anchor, facilitating Elbe's initial cross-dressing for modeling sessions that evolved into full identity shift, though it understates Gerda's role in funding the procedures amid Elbe's lack of independent income. The 2015 film , directed by and based on David Ebershoff's 2000 novel, amplifies dramatic elements absent from historical records, such as a fabricated society ball where Elbe is publicly unveiled as Lili, contrasting with diary evidence of her deliberate secrecy to avoid scandal. It portrays Gerda, played by , as a selfless muse whose support culminates in sacrificial divorce, but omits her post-separation and series of female partners, as well as the economic strain of covering Elbe's multiple operations estimated at thousands of kroner in an era without insurance for such experimental interventions. Both works soften the verifiable medical realities of Elbe's surgeries, which began with and in in 1930 under Magnus Hirschfeld's oversight, progressed to in , and ended fatally in June 1931 from following a rejected uterine graft driven by Elbe's fixation on achieving motherhood—a of post-castration that ignored immunological barriers and prior tissue . The film's visual emphasis on aesthetic transformation evades these causal failures, where incomplete healing and infection risks—compounded by rudimentary techniques without modern antibiotics—led to Elbe's rapid decline, prioritizing inspirational arc over empirical cautionary detail.

Controversies and Alternative Interpretations

Contemporary interpretations often portray Einar Wegener's transition to as a pioneering triumph of gender affirmation, yet from the era underscores the experimental and ultimately fatal nature of the procedures. Elbe underwent a series of gonadectomies, penectomies, and vaginoplasties starting in 1930 under surgeons associated with Magnus Hirschfeld's Institute for in , followed by a transplant in 1931. The transplant triggered acute organ rejection, exacerbated by the absence of immunosuppressive drugs—developed only decades later—leading to infection, , and death on September 13, 1931, just months after the operation. This outcome highlights immutable biological constraints on sex reassignment, as the human rejects non-native organs without modern interventions, a reality downplayed in narratives emphasizing psychological fulfillment over physiological impossibility. Alternative analyses, grounded in sexological observations, interpret Wegener's not as evidence of innate but as autogynephilia—a paraphilic arousal from envisioning oneself as female—consistent with patterns in some male-to-female cases. Early accounts describe Wegener's initial donning of women's attire in Gerda's studio as sparking erotic sensations, aligning with this framework rather than a congenital mismatch. Psychologists like have classified such motivations as distinct from homosexual transsexualism, positing autogynephilia as a driving late-onset transitions, though this typology faces resistance from activist-influenced academia prone to ideological filtering of data. Hirschfeld's conceptualization of transvestism similarly framed it as a sexual variant, not a fixed identity, reflecting 1920s experimental sexology's focus on and behavior over contemporary essentialist claims. Critiques note that retrofitting Elbe's story with modern ignores these failed paradigms, where glandular implants and surgeries promised but delivered high mortality, as seen in Elbe's own referencing eugenic and vitality-restoration themes absent from sanitized retellings. Gerda Wegener's facilitation of her husband's has been scrutinized for potential pragmatic incentives tied to her artistic career, rather than unalloyed spousal devotion. Her depictions of an androgynous "Lili" model—Einar in feminine garb—garnered acclaim and commissions in Paris's bohemian circles around 1913, boosting her visibility amid the era's fascination with in . Gerda's oeuvre, including erotic series evoking Sapphic themes independent of her marriage, suggests her enabling served professional utility, as her success often eclipsed Einar's landscape paintings, potentially sustaining the dynamic until surgeries rendered it untenable. This interpretation challenges hagiographic views, emphasizing causal incentives over altruism, though sources vary in attributing agency amid biased institutional lenses that prioritize affirmative narratives. Debates persist over anachronistically projecting 21st-century constructs onto a case steeped in Hirschfeld's progressive yet empirically flawed research, much of which collapsed under scrutiny post-1933 when Nazis razed his institute. Elbe's own writings express ambivalence toward Hirschfeld's questionnaires, rejecting ambiguous categorizations, which underscores the era's tentative, non-dogmatic explorations versus today's politicized . Feminist scholars have further contested trans readings, arguing Elbe's narrative aligns more with interwar obsessions over hormones and vitality than authentic identity shift, cautioning against ahistorical idealization that obscures . Such viewpoints, often marginalized in mainstream academia due to systemic progressive biases, prioritize causal mechanisms—like fetishistic reinforcement and surgical —over feel-good revisionism.

Notable Works

Fashion Illustrations and Advertisements

Gerda Wegener produced fashion illustrations for the Danish newspaper starting in the late 1900s, winning first prize in a 1907 competition for an Art Nouveau-inspired drawing of the feminine ideal. These early works featured women in contemporary attire, establishing her commercial foothold through reproduced sketches that emphasized elegance and modernity. After relocating to in 1912, Wegener contributed fashion plates to periodicals such as Journal des Dames et des Modes and its Costumes Parisiens section, creating at least seven documented plates between 1912 and 1914 that depicted Parisian dance dresses and outfits in a style blending detailed line work with emerging influences. She also illustrated for Vogue, La Vie Parisienne, and Fantasio during the and , portraying slender, stylish women in poses that highlighted garment flow and silhouette, which were widely reproduced to promote seasonal trends. Her technique involved precise ink lines and subtle shading to accentuate fabric textures and body proportions, aligning with the era's commercial demand for aspirational imagery. Wegener extended her illustrative work into advertising, designing campaigns for perfumes and apparel that integrated geometric Deco motifs with sensual female forms to evoke luxury and autonomy. Notable examples include the 1919 "2000 Lilas" series for a perfume brand, featuring variations of Amor and a young woman in flowing robes, and a 1922 advertisement for Arys perfumes showcasing elegant figures amid floral elements. A 1927 perfume ad further exemplified her approach, using vibrant colors and poised models to market scents as emblems of the modern woman's independence. These commissions, reproduced in print media, generated significant income during the 1910s and 1920s, reflecting her success in Paris's competitive fashion industry where few female artists achieved comparable visibility.

Portrait Paintings and Erotic Series

Gerda Wegener produced numerous portrait paintings of women from the Parisian bourgeoisie during the 1920s, employing a decorative style that emphasized elegance and high-society sophistication. These works, often executed in oil, featured subjects engaged in poised gazes and richly detailed attire, reflecting the opulent atmosphere of interwar Paris. Exhibited in the city's salons, such portraits garnered commissions and acclaim for their refined depiction of female confidence and allure. Wegener's portraits drew on influences blending linearity with echoes of depth, creating compositions that invited viewer engagement through direct eye contact and luminous skin tones. For instance, her 1920 portrait of Brigitte Bergman exemplifies this approach, portraying the subject in a manner that highlights both psychological intimacy and formal elegance. These paintings distinguished themselves from her illustrative works by their emphasis on painterly texture and standalone artistic expression rather than commercial application. In parallel, Wegener created erotic watercolor series that explored themes of female intimacy, including same-sex encounters rendered with stylized and explicit yet delicate sensuality. Works such as those in Les Délassements d'Éros (1925) depicted nude figures in lascivious poses, pushing artistic boundaries with candid representations of desire while maintaining an aesthetic of graceful . These pieces faced contemporary criticism for their perceived but were later praised for their unapologetic candor in visualizing female sexuality. A notable subset involved the "Lili as Model" motifs, where Wegener portrayed her spouse in series of intimate portraits that prioritized erotic and formal innovation over literal documentation. These watercolors, such as the 1920s depiction of Lili in languid, jewel-adorned poses, showcased Wegener's skill in merging personal collaboration with broader explorations of and bodily grace, earning recognition for their technical finesse in light and form.

References

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