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Key Information
Nigö (ニゴー, Nigō; born Tomoaki Nagao (長尾 智明) on December 23, 1970) is a Japanese fashion designer, disc jockey (DJ), record producer and entrepreneur. He is best known as the creator of the streetwear brand, A Bathing Ape (Bape), and currently serves as artistic director for Kenzo.[2][3] Additionally he is a member of the Japanese group Teriyaki Boyz, serving as their official in-house DJ since the group's 2005 debut.
Fashion background
[edit]Nigo venture into fashion started when he founded A Bathing Ape in 1993.[4] Hiroshi Fujiwara is considered his mentor.[4] He initially sold a few Bape Hoodies and T-shirts and camouflage print hoodies in a small store, items which became very popular among teenagers. In 2002, Nigo released the Bapesta sneaker,[5] which according to BBC presenter Jonathan Ross, later became the "epitome of collectable footwear".[6] The sneaker resembles Nike's Air Force 1 design,[7] but instead of the swoosh on the side, it has Nigo's Bapesta logo, a star with a lightning bolt extending out of it. In the cover news of the April issue of the trend magazine WWD for Japan, Bape's boss Nigo (formerly known as Tomoaki Nagao) announced that he is about to leave and he will be leaving with Takahashi UC (Undercover) designer Jun Takahashi. Nowhere, established on April 1, 1993, no longer serves as the designer of Bape. In 2003, Nigo partnered with Pharrell Williams to create and launch the streetwear brands Billionaire Boys Club[8] and Ice Cream footwear. Nigo himself also established his personal new company Nigold on April 4, 2009.[9] In 2010, he launched his new brand Human Made. In 2013, Nigo left Bape for good.[4] In 2014, Nigo became the creative director for Uniqlo's UT brand.[2][10] In 2020, Nigo partnered with Luxury brand Louis Vuitton alongside Virgil Abloh to create a capsule collection.[11] In September 2021, Kenzo appointed Nigo as its new artistic director. In July 2023, Australian winery Penfolds appointed Nigo as its Creative Partner of two years.
Musical and entertainment background
[edit]Nigo's first involvement with music was playing in punk cover band Tokyo Sex Pistols while at university, alongside fellow fashion figures Hiroshi Fujiwara, Jun Takahashi and Hikaru Iwanaga.[4] Nigo collaborated with James Lavelle, creating a compilation called A Bathing Ape vs Mo Wax, which was released in Japan in 1997.[4] He would go on to join forces with Lavelle's project, U.N.K.L.E., and Scratch Perverts, to release the single Ape Shall Never Kill Ape, in 1998.[4] The following year saw the Japanese release of Nigo's debut album, Ape Sounds, on which he showcased a blend of trip-hop, dub, indie rock, and psychedelic pop.[4] The album featured contributions from Ben Lee, Money Mark, Shawn Lee and Cornelius.[4] It was released internationally by Mo Wax in 2000.[4] Nigo subsequently released a number of non-album singles, which included collaborations with Rakim and Flavor Flav, as well as compilations Ape Sounds Remix, (B)APE Sounds, and Return of the Ape Sounds.[4]
Soon after the establishment of Billionaire Boys Club, Nigo formed rap group Teriyaki Boyz alongside Ilmari, Ryo-Z, Verbal, and Wise.[4] The group released the albums Beef or Chicken in 2005 and Serious Japanese in 2009, respectively.
Nigo has been associated with popular rap and hip hop artists such as Kanye West and Pharrell Williams. He is the DJ of Teriyaki Boyz and is also owner of Bape Sounds record label.[12] He also has an MTV Japan show which he created called Nigoldeneye.[13]
Together with BiS manager Watanabe Junnosuke, Nigo was the producer and manager for the female pop group Billie Idle.[14] His involvement with the group began in 2014, when he directed a music video for BiS' song "Nerve",[15] and after the group disbanded, Nigo and Watanabe offered BiS members First Summer Uika and Hirano Nozomi the chance to join their new project, Billie Idle. The group debuted in 2014 with the album "Idle Gossip", for which Nigo is the executive producer.[16] Billie Idle would go on to release a further four albums before disbanding in 2019.[4]
On April 15, 2016, the Japanese company LDH announced that a new Hip-Hop unit named HONEST BOYZ® would be produced as a joint project of Nigo and EXILE and 三代目 J SOUL BROTHERS member NAOTO since they had been long term friends and often worked on designing clothes together. The group would be composed of 4 rappers: NAOTO, who was also the assigned leader, M-flo member VERBAL, EXILE and GENERATIONS member Sekiguchi Mandy and Gekidan EXILE and DOBERMAN INFINITY member SWAY. Nigo would act as the producer and DJ of the unit. The group's name is a homage to "TERIYAKI BOYZ" that Nigo and VERBAL were part together. On June 25, the unit debuted with the digital single "PART TIME HERO". The song was used as the opening theme song for the drama Night Hero NAOTO, which stars member NAOTO. On November 7, 2017, they released their second digital single "YO!". On February 5, 2018, the unit released their third digital single "HeartBreakerZ" featuring CRAZYBOY. On June 6, they released their fourth digital single "BEPPING SOUND" featuring HIROOMI TOSAKA. In November of the same year, the unit released a music video for the unreleased song "TOKYO DIP" featuring American artist Pharrell Williams on their official YouTube channel. The collaboration came to be due to the friendship between Nigo and Pharrell, with Pharrell producing the song and participating on vocals. The music video, directed by Nigo, was shot in Shibuya and Nakameguro, and also features cameo appearances by Sano Reo and Iwata Takanori. On March 6, 2019, they released their first CD single "SAKURA" featuring the duo KOBUKURO. The single's title track is a reconstruction of KOBUKURO's hit song "Sakura" with a hip-hop approach. In 2019, the unit provided the unreleased song "ELECTRICITY" featuring American Hip-Hop artist Lil Uzi Vert as the ending theme of the movie Detective Pikachu. On March 20, 2024, the unit released their first studio album HBZ digitally. Prior to the release, the lead song "TOY BOY" featuring Dean Fujoka was pre-released digitally on February 28.
On January 28, 2022, Nigo and ASAP Rocky released the song "Arya", serving as the lead single for Nigo's album, I Know Nigo!, released via Victor Victor Worldwide and Republic Records on March 25, 2022. It marks Nigo's first solo album since 2005's Nigo Presents: Return of the Ape Sounds.[17] I Know Nigo! was co-executive produced by Nigo alongside Pharrell Williams. Williams and Nigo had first collaborated nearly two decades earlier, when the Neptunes contributed production to Beef or Chicken. The album's second single, titled "Want It Bad", was released in collaboration with American musician Kid Cudi. The album includes guest appearances from Tyler, the Creator, Clipse, Gunna, Teriyaki Boyz, ASAP Ferg, Pusha T, Lil Uzi Vert, and the late Pop Smoke.
Art collector
[edit]Nigo met artist Kaws in 1996 and became an early supporter of his work. In 2005, he commissioned him a painting and Kaws painted the Kaws Album.[18] The painting was sold in 2019 for $14.8 million at Sotheby's in Hong Kong among other artworks. The total of the sales of his art collection was $28 million.[19][20]
He also worked with Futura, Stash, Hajime Sorayama, and André Saraiva.[21]
Miscellaneous
[edit]- Nigo speaks little or no English and uses a translator whenever he does interviews.[22]
- Nigo has a cameo appearance in the Takashi Murakami short film Akihabara Majokko Princess shown at the "Pop Life" exhibition at Tate Modern in London.
Discography
[edit]Studio albums
[edit]| Title | Details | Peak chart positions | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AUS [23] |
BEL (FL) [24] |
CAN [25] |
NZ [26] |
US [27] |
US R&B/HH [28] | ||
| Ape Sounds |
|
— | — | — | — | — | — |
| I Know Nigo! |
|
89 | 170 | 21 | 29 | 13 | 6 |
Singles
[edit]As lead artist
[edit]| Title | Year | Peak chart positions | Album | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| NZ Hot [29] |
US Bub. [30] | |||
| "Arya" (with ASAP Rocky) |
2022 | 8 | — | I Know Nigo! |
| "Want It Bad" (with Kid Cudi) |
20 | — | ||
| "Hear Me Clearly" (with Pusha T) |
— | — | ||
| "More Tonight" (with Teriyaki Boyz) |
— | — | ||
| "Heavy" (with Lil Uzi Vert) |
23 | 14 | ||
| "—" denotes a recording that did not chart or was not released in that territory. | ||||
Other charted songs
[edit]| Title | Year | Peak chart positions | Album | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CAN [31] |
NZ Hot [32] |
US Bub. [33] |
US R&B/HH [34] | |||
| "Lost and Found Freestyle 2019" (with ASAP Rocky and Tyler, the Creator) |
2022 | 89 | 12 | 6 | 40 | I Know Nigo! |
| "Come On, Let's Go" (with Tyler, the Creator) |
— | 7 | 4 | 35 | ||
Awards
[edit]- 2005 Style Award, MTV Asia Awards[citation needed]
- 2020 Fashion designer of the Year Award, GQ Japan Men of the Year 2020[35]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ "Nigo Signs to Steven Victor's Victor Victor Worldwide, Plans Release for New Album". Complex Networks.
- ^ a b Lemola, Hasse (November 18, 2016). "NIGO on the Intersection of Streetwear & Fast Fashion". Hypebeast. Retrieved January 13, 2017.
- ^ "Nigo | HYPEBEAST". hypebeast.com. Retrieved March 1, 2020.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l "Nigo". Spotify. Retrieved April 16, 2023.
- ^ "Bathing Ape Bapes History | SneakerFiles". SneakerFiles. Retrieved July 4, 2018.
- ^ "Bape - A bathing ape - Nigo interview with Jonathan Ross". Archived from the original on September 17, 2008. Retrieved October 8, 2008.
- ^ "A Look Back at the Best BAPESTAs Ever Released". Hypebeast. Retrieved July 4, 2018.
- ^ "POLLS: Can Pharrell Really Save Billionaire Boys Club and IceCream?". Hypebeast. January 29, 2016. Retrieved July 27, 2020.
- ^ "Bape". Archived from the original on January 28, 2013.
- ^ Cochrane, Lauren (January 21, 2014). "Nigo: 'Uniqlo is streetwear too'". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved March 1, 2020.
- ^ "Here's a Look at the Upcoming Louis Vuitton x NIGO® Capsule Collection". Complex. Retrieved July 27, 2020.
- ^ "Genius | Song Lyrics & Knowledge". Genius. Retrieved July 27, 2020.
- ^ "sothebys".
- ^ "BILLIE IDLE®". Billie Idle (in Japanese). Retrieved July 23, 2016.
- ^ Vice Japan (June 4, 2014), BiS / nerve directed by NIGO®(2.5D × VICE), archived from the original on December 21, 2021, retrieved July 23, 2016
- ^ Idle Gossip, Space Shower Music, retrieved July 23, 2016
- ^ Helfand, Raphael (January 28, 2022). "Nigo and A$AP Rocky share "Arya", a time capsule from the near past". The Fader. Retrieved January 31, 2022.
- ^ "KAWS Shatters Auction Record with $14.8 Million USD Painting". Hypebeast. April 2019. Retrieved July 27, 2020.
- ^ "Sotheby's Was Hoping This Kaws Painting of 'The Simpsons' Would Sell for $1 Million. It Just Went for $14.7 Million". artnet News. April 1, 2019. Retrieved March 1, 2020.
- ^ "Millennials in Hoodies Spend $28 Million on Simpsons Art". Bloomberg.com. April 1, 2019. Retrieved September 7, 2020.
- ^ "NIGO's Sotheby's Auction Just Brought in More Than $28 Million". Highsnobiety. April 1, 2019. Retrieved March 1, 2020.
- ^ Sanchez, Karizza. "Kid Cudi & Nigo Talk Streetwear, Music & Kids See Ghosts 2". Complex.com. Retrieved July 27, 2020.
- ^ "The ARIA Report: Week Commencing 4 April 2022". The ARIA Report. No. 1674. Australian Recording Industry Association. April 4, 2022. p. 6.
- ^ "Nigo – I Know Nigo!" (in Dutch). Ultratop. Retrieved April 3, 2022.
- ^ "Canadian Albums: Week of April 9, 2022". Billboard. Retrieved April 5, 2022.
- ^ "NZ Top 40 Albums Chart". Recorded Music NZ. April 4, 2022. Retrieved April 2, 2022.
- ^ "The Billboard 200: Week of April 9, 2022". Billboard. Retrieved April 5, 2022.
- ^ "Top R&B/Hip-Hop Albums: Week of April 9, 2022". Billboard. Retrieved April 5, 2022.
- ^ Peaks on the NZ Hot Singles Chart:
- "Arya": "NZ Hot Singles Chart". Recorded Music NZ. February 7, 2022. Retrieved February 5, 2022.
- "Want It Bad": "NZ Hot Singles Chart". Recorded Music NZ. February 28, 2022. Retrieved February 26, 2022.
- "Heavy": "NZ Hot Singles Chart". Recorded Music NZ. March 28, 2022. Retrieved March 26, 2022.
- ^ "Lil Uzi Vert Chart History: Bubbling Under Hot 100". Billboard. Retrieved April 6, 2022.
- ^ "Tyler, the Creator Chart History: Canadian Hot 100". Billboard. Retrieved April 5, 2022.
- ^ "NZ Hot Singles Chart". Recorded Music NZ. April 4, 2022. Retrieved April 2, 2022.
- ^ "Tyler, the Creator Chart History: Bubbling Under Hot 100". Billboard. Retrieved April 5, 2022.
- ^ "Tyler, the Creator Chart History: Hot R&B/Hip-Hop Songs". Billboard. Retrieved April 5, 2022.
- ^ "NIGO® Wins Fashion Designer of the Year Award! ── 2020 "GQ MEN OF THE YEAR 2020" announced!". GQ Japan. November 23, 2020. Retrieved November 23, 2020.
External links
[edit]- Official website
- Photoshoot of the interior of Nigo's house from Brutus Casa
Early life and education
Early years and influences
Tomoaki Nagao, professionally known as Nigo, was born on December 23, 1970, in Maebashi, Gunma Prefecture, Japan.[4][8] He grew up in a working-class family, with his mother working as a nurse and his father as a metal fabricator, in a modest environment that contrasted with the vibrant American pop culture that soon captivated him.[4][3] Nagao's early exposure to this culture came primarily through imported magazines like Popeye, which showcased '50s Americana aesthetics, and music imports featuring hip-hop pioneers such as Run-D.M.C., sparking his lifelong passion for blending global influences with Japanese street style.[4][9] During his teenage years, Nagao immersed himself in these interests by collecting vinyl records and experimenting with personal style, often drawing inspiration from the rebellious energy of hip-hop and early streetwear trends.[3] At age 16, he began making regular trips from Maebashi to Tokyo to shop for records at stores like Cisco, where he saved enough to buy his first set of turntables, further fueling his enthusiasm for music and its associated fashion elements.[3] After graduating high school in 1989 (age 18), Nagao moved to Tokyo, diving deeper into the city's dynamic street culture scene, which exposed him to a diverse array of subcultures, record shops, and emerging fashion hubs that profoundly shaped his creative worldview.[4][3] This relocation marked a pivotal shift, transitioning his hobbies into a more hands-on engagement with the urban environments that would later define his career in fashion and music.Formal education
Nigo enrolled at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo around 1989, where he studied fashion editing and styling as part of the institution's curriculum.[18][3][4] During his time at the college, he met Jun Takahashi, a fellow student who would later become a longtime collaborator and co-founder of the boutique Nowhere.[5][19] Nigo graduated from Bunka Fashion College in 1991.[1] Following graduation, he pursued practical experience in the fashion industry, taking on assistant roles at influential magazines such as Popeye.[1][4] He supplemented this with early freelance work, including illustrations for fashion magazines and designs for album covers, which helped him develop hands-on skills in visual and graphic elements of fashion.[3][20]Fashion career
Founding A Bathing Ape
In 1993, Tomoaki Nagao, better known as Nigo, launched A Bathing Ape (BAPE) in Tokyo's Ura-Harajuku district, drawing inspiration from the 1968 science fiction film Planet of the Apes and the Japanese proverb "a bathing ape in lukewarm water," which satirizes complacency.[21] The brand began as a small-scale operation blending Nigo's interests in hip-hop culture, American sportswear, and pop culture references, with initial collections produced in limited quantities to appeal to Tokyo's youth subcultures.[22] This grassroots start positioned BAPE as a pioneer in Japanese streetwear, emphasizing exclusivity from its inception.[23] Central to BAPE's identity were distinctive design elements that set it apart in the streetwear landscape. The Ape Head logo, created by Nigo's collaborator and graphic artist Shinsuke Takizawa (Sk8thing), debuted on T-shirts and hoodies, becoming an instantly recognizable symbol that evoked the film's ape imagery while serving as a bold graphic motif.[22] Complementing this was the brand's signature camouflage pattern, first introduced in 1996 as "1st Camo," which fused military-inspired aesthetics with BAPE-specific icons like the Ape Head and characters such as Baby Milo, often rendered in vibrant colorways to subvert traditional camo norms.[21] Nigo's strategy of limited-edition drops—producing small runs of items like camo-printed apparel and logo-heavy basics—fostered scarcity, driving demand among fashion enthusiasts and establishing BAPE's hype-driven release model.[23] By the late 1990s, BAPE had grown significantly within Japan, expanding from its Ura-Harajuku origins to multiple stores, including flagships in key areas like Harajuku and Osaka, which helped solidify its domestic cult status.[24] The brand's international breakthrough came in the early 2000s, fueled by endorsements from global celebrities such as Pharrell Williams and Kanye West, who frequently wore BAPE pieces in music videos and public appearances, amplifying its visibility in hip-hop and street culture worldwide.[25] This celebrity-driven hype led to overseas store openings in cities like Los Angeles, New York, and London by the mid-2000s, transforming BAPE into a global streetwear phenomenon.[24] In early 2011, Nigo sold a majority stake—90.27%—of BAPE to the Hong Kong-based fashion conglomerate I.T Group for approximately 230 million Japanese yen (about $2.8 million USD at the time), a figure that reflected the brand's operational challenges despite its cultural influence.[26] This transaction allowed Nigo to disengage from day-to-day creative duties, enabling him to pursue new ventures while I.T oversaw BAPE's continued expansion.[27]Human Made and independent projects
In 2010, Nigo founded Human Made as a personal label distinct from his earlier work with A Bathing Ape, emphasizing high-quality craftsmanship and a philosophy of drawing from historical influences to shape contemporary design.[28] The brand's signature motifs include a teddy bear emblem, representing an evolution from streetwear's playful roots, and recurring "Human Made" tags that highlight artisanal production techniques inspired by vintage Americana and workwear.[29] Human Made quickly established itself as a refined extension of Nigo's aesthetic, focusing on durable materials and subtle graphics rather than overt hype, with early collections featuring reworked denim, outerwear, and accessories that blended Japanese precision with global pop culture references.[9] Prior to Human Made, Nigo co-founded the NOWHERE boutique in 1993 with designer Jun Takahashi in Tokyo's Ura-Harajuku district, creating a pivotal hub for emerging streetwear culture.[30] The store served as an initial retail space for both Nigo's nascent A Bathing Ape label and Takahashi's Undercover, fostering a collaborative environment that introduced limited-edition drops and curated selections to a dedicated audience of fashion enthusiasts.[31] NOWHERE's intimate, no-frills setup emphasized community and scarcity, influencing the boutique model that later defined global streetwear retail, though it closed in 2000 before a conceptual revival through anniversary capsules in later years.[32] From 2014 to 2021, Nigo served as creative director for Uniqlo's UT (Uniqlo T-shirt) line, overseeing capsule collections that democratized graphic tees through pop culture themes and artist partnerships.[33] Notable releases included a 2019 Star Wars collaboration with Takahashi and Tetsu Nishiyama, featuring illustrated motifs of characters like Ewoks and Stormtroopers on affordable cotton basics, which sold out rapidly and expanded Uniqlo's reach into streetwear demographics.[34] These projects allowed Nigo to experiment with mass-market accessibility while maintaining his signature bold prints and cultural nods, producing over 1,000 designs across seasons that prioritized playful storytelling over luxury pricing.[35] In recent years, Human Made has continued evolving with seasonal drops that merge archival references and modern functionality, as seen in the Autumn/Winter 2024 collection featuring oxford shirts, coach jackets, and graphic tees in vintage workwear silhouettes.[36] The Spring/Summer 2024 "Ningen-sei" lineup incorporated heart-patterned yukata and steteco shorts, interpreting traditional Japanese elements through contemporary lenses, while early 2025 releases like Season 29 introduced Lunar New Year-themed pieces with snake motifs on elevated casualwear.[37] Fall/Winter 2025's initial drop emphasized denim and collegiate-inspired items, underscoring Nigo's ongoing commitment to timeless construction amid shifting trends.[38]Leadership at Kenzo
In September 2021, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton announced the appointment of Nigo (born Tomoaki Nagao) as the artistic director of Kenzo, marking the first time a Japanese designer had led the house since its founder, Kenzo Takada, retired in 1999.[6] Nigo succeeded Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who had departed in June 2021 after a brief tenure, and brought his extensive background in streetwear—honed through brands like A Bathing Ape and Human Made—to elevate Kenzo's bohemian and eclectic heritage within the luxury sector.[7] This move was seen as a strategic effort by LVMH to reconnect the Paris-based brand with its Japanese roots while infusing contemporary urban energy, especially amid the post-pandemic recovery in fashion.[39] Nigo's debut collection for Fall/Winter 2022, presented in January 2022 during Paris Fashion Week, marked a pivotal shift by blending Kenzo's signature motifs—such as the iconic tiger stripe—with streetwear staples like workwear jackets, preppy tailoring, and Japanese denim.[13] The show, held at the Palais Royal and echoing Takada's historic venues, emphasized "real-to-wear" practicality, drawing from Nigo's personal discovery of Kenzo as a teenager and incorporating elements like varsity influences and bold prints to bridge the brand's free-spirited past with modern accessibility.[40] This approach extended to his Spring/Summer 2023 collection, shown in June 2022, which refined these codes through nautical silhouettes, retro prep styles, and vibrant motifs inspired by Takada's early innovations, further solidifying Nigo's vision of inclusive, everyday luxury.[41] Through subsequent seasons, Nigo continued to evolve Kenzo's aesthetic, with collections like Fall/Winter 2023 highlighting layered textures and global cultural nods, and Spring/Summer 2025 evoking Brazilian rhythms through mesh prints and bamboo patterns that merged Japanese precision with international vibrancy.[42] By Fall/Winter 2025, presented in early 2025, the line emphasized Japanese craftsmanship—featuring kimono-inspired jackets, untraditional tailoring with fluffy volumes, and casual denim—while incorporating global street influences through a New York-set campaign that captured urban contrasts and motion.[43] These designs expanded Kenzo's accessory offerings, including bags and small leather goods reimagined with tiger motifs and heritage prints, to appeal to a broader, younger demographic.[44] Under Nigo's leadership, Kenzo faced challenges in navigating the post-pandemic luxury market slowdown and the waning hype around streetwear, which had previously buoyed the brand but now required adaptation to premium apparel demands.[45] Despite these hurdles, his tenure has been credited with revitalizing the house's playful spirit, fostering critical acclaim for its cultural fusions, and positioning Kenzo as a bridge between street culture and high fashion, as evidenced by positive reception to collections that prioritize fun and wearability over ostentation.[1]Key collaborations and industry impact
Nigo's collaborations have bridged streetwear with global sportswear and luxury brands, amplifying his influence across fashion sectors. In 2007, through his brand A Bathing Ape (BAPE), Nigo partnered with Nike on a limited-edition Air Force 1 sneaker, featuring camo patterns and ape motifs that blended military aesthetics with urban style, marking an early fusion of Japanese streetwear and American athletic footwear.[8] This was followed by a major partnership with Adidas Originals in 2014, launching the "adidas Originals by NIGO" collection, which included reimagined classics like the Superstar 80s and Rivalry Hi sneakers alongside apparel such as bombers and track suits, emphasizing bold graphics and retro motifs.[46] In 2022, as creative director of Kenzo, Nigo collaborated with Louis Vuitton under the guidance of the late Virgil Abloh, producing the LV² line that incorporated monogram camouflage, denim suits, and workwear-inspired tailoring, further integrating street elements into high fashion.[47] Additionally, Nigo co-founded Billionaire Boys Club (BBC) with Pharrell Williams in 2003, creating a luxury streetwear label known for astronaut-themed graphics and premium fabrics, which has since expanded into ICECREAM sub-lines and global retail.[48] These partnerships underscore Nigo's pivotal role in popularizing "hypebeast" culture, where limited production runs and exclusive drops create scarcity and collector demand, transforming streetwear from niche subculture to mainstream phenomenon. By restricting distribution—such as limiting BAPE sales to select retailers in the early 2000s—Nigo fostered a resale ecosystem that elevated items like BAPESTA sneakers to premium values, influencing the integration of streetwear into luxury markets through collaborations that normalized high-price points for casual pieces.[49] His strategies helped pioneer the hype model, where drops generate buzz via social media and queues, as seen in BBC's astronaut hoodies reselling at multiples of retail.[50] In 2026, the Design Museum London will host "NIGO: From Japan with Love," Nigo's first major institutional exhibition in Europe, running from May 1 to October 4 and tracing his career from 1990s Tokyo street style to contemporary luxury, including rare garments, sneakers, and archival pieces.[51] This retrospective highlights his cross-disciplinary impact, from music to design. Nigo's long-term influence extends to mentoring emerging talents, with figures like Virgil Abloh citing him as a key influence in blending streetwear with couture, and his scarcity tactics shaping platforms like StockX, where Nigo-designed items consistently command high resale premiums due to sustained collector interest.[17]Music and entertainment career
DJ beginnings
In the early 1990s, Tomoaki Nagao adopted the pseudonym Nigo—translating to "number two" in Japanese as a nod to his mentor Hiroshi Fujiwara—while embarking on his DJ career in Tokyo's underground club scene, particularly in the bustling Shibuya district known for its fusion of youth culture and nightlife.[3][52] This moniker, initially tied to his assistant role with Fujiwara, extended to his musical pursuits as he spun records at local venues, drawing from the era's emerging hip-hop imports and establishing himself amid the city's vibrant party circuit.[53] Nigo's sets were shaped by influences from American hip-hop, funk grooves, and the smooth synths of Japanese city pop, genres that mirrored his fascination with Western pop culture and local sounds from his youth in the 1980s.[9][54] He developed residencies at events where fashion enthusiasts and music lovers converged, such as informal gatherings in Harajuku and Shibuya spots that highlighted street style alongside eclectic beats, fostering a symbiotic environment for creative expression.[3][55] By around 2000, Nigo transitioned from casual DJing to more structured productions, compiling mixtapes that were distributed through his burgeoning A Bathing Ape (BAPE) retail channels, effectively merging his musical output with fashion promotion.[56][4] These efforts marked the shift from a personal hobby to a professional side pursuit, with BAPE stores serving as key platforms for exposing his music to a dedicated audience of style-conscious fans, including styling and promoting Japanese hip-hop artists like Scha Dara Parr.[53][57][58]Teriyaki Boyz involvement
Nigo co-founded the Japanese hip-hop collective Teriyaki Boyz in 2005, taking on the roles of DJ and primary producer while assembling a lineup of prominent rappers including Verbal from M-Flo, Ilmari and Ryo-Z from Rip Slyme, and Wise.[59] The group drew from Nigo's established DJ experience in Tokyo's club scene to blend Japanese rap with international influences, aiming to bridge street culture and global hip-hop.[60] Their debut album, Beef or Chicken, released in November 2005 via Def Jam Japan and (B)ape Sounds, showcased high-profile collaborations with producers such as Pharrell Williams of N.E.R.D., The Neptunes, Ad-Rock of Beastie Boys, and Daft Punk, resulting in a fusion of playful lyrics and eclectic beats that sold over 100,000 copies in Japan and earned gold certification from the RIAJ.[61] Tracks like "Heartbreaker" and "Cho L.A.R.G.E." highlighted the group's energetic style and Nigo's curatorial vision, emphasizing fashion-forward aesthetics tied to his A Bathing Ape brand.[62] Teriyaki Boyz gained international exposure through their contributions to the soundtrack of the 2006 film The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift, including the lead single "Tokyo Drift (Fast & Furious)," a high-energy track produced by Pharrell Williams that peaked at number 81 on the Billboard Hot 100 and became a cultural staple for blending J-rap with drift racing themes.[63] This placement not only boosted the group's visibility in the U.S. but also underscored Nigo's influence in merging music, film, and streetwear.[64] The collective released their second studio album, Serious Japanese, in 2009 on Star Trak Entertainment, featuring further collaborations and a more mature sound, after which they entered an extended hiatus amid members' solo pursuits.[61] Sporadic reunions followed, including a 2022 performance at 88rising's Head in the Clouds festival and a guest appearance on Nigo's solo track "Morë Tonight," signaling ongoing but infrequent activity through 2023.[65]Solo music releases
Nigo's solo music endeavors emerged alongside his fashion pursuits, beginning with the 2000 compilation album Ape Sounds, which he curated, compiled, and in part produced, drawing from hip-hop, funk, and electronic influences to reflect his eclectic tastes. This project featured tracks from artists like Digable Planets and Beastie Boys, establishing Nigo as a tastemaker in Japanese street culture music scenes. Followed by (B)ape Sounds in 2004, another compilation under his direction, these early releases highlighted his role as a producer and selector rather than a primary performer, blending global sounds with a distinctly urban edge.[66] Transitioning to more direct involvement, Nigo's production work gained prominence through collaborations with high-profile artists, including co-executive production on his own projects alongside Pharrell Williams and Kanye West. On the 2022 album I Know Nigo!, released via Victor Victor Worldwide and Republic Records, Nigo served as the primary visionary, with production credits shared across tracks featuring Lil Uzi Vert, A$AP Rocky, and Pharrell Williams; Kanye West contributed beats to several cuts, such as "Hear Me Clearly" with Pusha T. The album debuted at number 13 on the Billboard 200, marking Nigo's return to music after nearly two decades and showcasing his ability to fuse trap, soul, and hip-hop elements.[67][68] In recent years, Nigo has expanded his solo output with singles that emphasize his producer role and international collaborations. The 2024 track "Dope Boy" with Young Thug, produced by Wheezy, explored trap-infused rhythms, while the 2025 release "Alley Oop" featuring Peso Pluma and Duki incorporated Latin trap influences, reflecting Nigo's global network. Additionally, as artistic director at Kenzo, Nigo has influenced runway soundtracks, such as the Spring/Summer 2025 show score executive produced by WhoJiggi and the Fall/Winter 2024 music curated by Cornelius, integrating electronic and pop elements to complement his fashion narratives. These efforts underscore Nigo's ongoing evolution as a multifaceted creator bridging music and design.[69][70][71]Art collection and other pursuits
Toy and collectibles passion
Nigo developed a deep passion for designer toys during the late 1990s, a period when the urban vinyl movement was emerging in Asia, and he actively collected and shared these items with peers in the creative community.[72] His obsession extended to iconic lines such as Bearbricks and collaborations with Medicom Toy, as well as figures like Dunnys from Kidrobot, reflecting his appreciation for limited-edition vinyl art that blended street culture with collectibility.[73] Nigo's engagement with these toys was not merely personal but also professional, as evidenced by his early adoption of the medium through Medicom partnerships that produced sought-after pieces.[74] Nigo integrated his toy passion into his fashion endeavors, most notably through BAPE x Medicom Toy collaborations that produced Ape figures, such as the Agent Nigo vinyl from the Agency Preventive Evil series in 1998, which became a collector's staple.[75] These crossovers transformed toys into wearable and displayable extensions of streetwear aesthetics, with Ape figures often featuring BAPE camo patterns and limited runs that heightened their exclusivity.[76] By merging toy design with apparel motifs, Nigo elevated the status of collectibles within fashion circles.[77] Nigo's personal collection is estimated to comprise thousands of items, amassed over decades and displayed in custom setups reminiscent of a private "Nigo Museum" at his Tokyo residence, where toys are arranged alongside other ephemera to create immersive vignettes of pop culture history.[73] This expansive archive underscores his role as a tastemaker, influencing broader art collecting pursuits through shared inspirations from street and toy design.[78]Fine art acquisitions
Nigo's engagement with fine art deepened in the early 2010s, building on his longstanding support for artists blending street culture and contemporary aesthetics, as he acquired significant works by KAWS, whom he first met in 1996. His collection features iconic pieces such as KAWS' paintings and sculptures from the Companion series, reflecting his role as an early patron of the artist's transition from graffiti to high-end gallery practice.[79][73] Nigo has also invested in works by Japanese contemporary artist Takashi Murakami and American sculptor Daniel Arsham, whose eroded, futuristic forms align with Nigo's interest in cultural fusion and materiality. These purchases, often made through prestigious platforms like Art Basel, underscore his strategic entry into the blue-chip art market around 2010.[73][80] Nigo's fine art holdings are prominently displayed in his Tokyo residences and ateliers, where KAWS sculptures serve as focal points in both private spaces and designed guesthouses overlooking Tokyo Bay. Select pieces from the collection have been loaned to international exhibitions, including contributions to the 2026 "NIGO: From Japan with Love" showcase at London's Design Museum, highlighting his curation of street-to-fine art narratives.[81][82]Philanthropic efforts
Nigo has contributed to Japanese disaster relief following the 2011 Tohoku earthquake through BAPE charity products, including limited-edition tees that raised funds for affected communities.[83] Under Nigo's creative direction at Kenzo since 2021, the brand has continued partnerships with organizations like the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) for environmental causes, such as tiger conservation efforts.[84] Since 2015, Nigo has been involved in mentorship initiatives for young designers in Tokyo, fostering the next generation of Asian talent through his influence in streetwear and luxury fashion.[85] Additionally, Nigo has occasionally used pieces from his art collection in fundraising events to benefit cultural and educational causes.[73]Discography
Studio albums
Nigo's debut studio album, Ape Sounds, was released on December 22, 1999, in Japan via Toys Factory, with an international reissue on September 25, 2000, through Mo' Wax. The 10-track instrumental project blends hip-hop, trip-hop, and samples from 1970s funk, kung-fu films, and pop culture, reflecting Nigo's DJ roots and early Ape Sounds label aesthetic. Running 48 minutes, it features no guest vocals and emphasizes eclectic curation over traditional song structures.[86][87] His second studio album, I Know Nigo!, was released on March 25, 2022, via Victor Victor Worldwide and Republic Records, marking his return to music as a lead artist after years focused on fashion and production work with groups like Teriyaki Boyz. Co-executive produced by Nigo alongside Pharrell Williams, the project draws on Nigo's DJ roots and streetwear legacy, blending high-energy hip-hop beats with subtle nods to J-pop and trip-hop from his earlier career, while incorporating fashion-inspired motifs like luxury excess and cultural fusion. The album features an all-star lineup of collaborators, emphasizing Nigo's industry connections, and runs 32 minutes across 11 tracks in its standard edition.[67][88] The tracklist showcases a mix of trap-infused anthems, freestyles, and melodic hooks, with production handled by a rotating cast including Pharrell Williams, Tyler, the Creator, The Neptunes, and Hector Delgado. Key highlights include the opener "Lost and Found Freestyle 2019," a high-octane posse cut uniting A$AP Rocky and Tyler, the Creator over Delgado's booming production; "Punch Bowl," reuniting Clipse (Pusha T and No Malice) with Pharrell's signature Neptunes sound; and the posthumous Pop Smoke feature "Remember," which layers the late rapper's gravelly delivery on a lush, bass-heavy trap beat produced by BoogzDaBeast. Other standouts like "Want It Bad" pair Kid Cudi's introspective verses with Pharrell's funky guitar riffs, while "Hear Me Clearly" delivers Pusha T's razor-sharp lyricism over a Kanye West-inspired minimalism. The full tracklist is as follows:| No. | Title | Featured Artist(s) | Producer(s) | Length |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lost and Found Freestyle 2019 | A$AP Rocky, Tyler, the Creator | Hector Delgado | 2:58 |
| 2 | Arya | A$AP Rocky | Axl, BoogzDaBeast | 2:41 |
| 3 | Punch Bowl | Pusha T, Clipse | The Neptunes | 3:23 |
| 4 | Functional Addict | Gunna, A$AP Rocky | Cubeatz, Hector Delgado | 2:45 |
| 5 | Want It Bad | Kid Cudi, Pharrell Williams | Pharrell Williams | 3:09 |
| 6 | Morë Luck | Lil Uzi Vert | Brandon Finessin, Carter Lang | 3:00 |
| 7 | Remember | Pop Smoke | BoogzDaBeast | 2:09 |
| 8 | Hear Me Clearly | Pusha T | Kanye West | 2:30 |
| 9 | Come On, Let's Go | Tyler, the Creator | Tyler, the Creator | 2:09 |
| 10 | Heavy Metal | A$AP Ferg | Axl, BoogzDaBeast | 2:33 |
| 11 | Hit My Beeper (Interlude) / Hit My Beeper | Pharrell Williams, Lil Uzi Vert | Pharrell Williams | 3:32 |
Singles and EPs
Nigo's foray into singles and EPs has primarily revolved around collaborations that blend his production style with hip-hop and trap influences, often released through Victor Victor Worldwide and Republic Records. His early contributions include production on Teriyaki Boyz's breakout single "Tokyo Drift (Fast & Furious)" in 2006, which appeared on the soundtrack for The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift via Interscope Records and charted on Billboard's Hot R&B/Hip-Hop Songs at number 92, amassing over 528 million Spotify streams as of November 2025 as a cultural staple in automotive and hip-hop scenes.[92][93] In the 2020s, Nigo shifted toward solo and featured releases tied to his album I Know Nigo!. The lead single "Arya," featuring A$AP Rocky, dropped on January 28, 2022, via Victor Victor/Republic, showcasing Nigo's beat-making with Rocky's introspective flows over a minimalist trap backdrop; it garnered approximately 58 million Spotify streams as of November 2025. Follow-up singles from the project included "Hear Me Clearly" with Pusha T (March 2022), which peaked with 14 million streams emphasizing sharp lyricism and booming bass, and "Heavy" featuring Lil Uzi Vert (March 18, 2022), blending auto-tune hooks with Nigo's signature samples for over 34 million streams as of November 2025. These tracks highlighted Nigo's role as a curator, bridging fashion-world connections with mainstream rap.[94][95][96] Post-album, Nigo continued with standalone releases, including "Dope Boy" featuring Young Thug on September 27, 2024, under Victor Victor/Republic; the concise trap cut, produced by Wheezy, explored street hustle themes and achieved 9.7 million Spotify streams as of November 2025, underscoring Nigo's enduring ties to Atlanta's rap ecosystem. In 2025, he expanded globally with "Alley Oop," a February 28 collaboration with Peso Pluma and Duki via Victor Victor, fusing corridos tumbados with trap for a lowrider-themed video shot in Los Angeles; the single amassed 22.5 million streams as of November 2025, marking Nigo's venture into Latin urban sounds.[97][98][96][99][100] Regarding EPs, Nigo's output remains sparse, with no major solo extended plays verified through 2025; however, his production work extended to Teriyaki Boyz's 2009 mixtape Delicious Japanese (Def Jam Japan/Bape Sounds), a Nigo-curated collection of freestyles and remixes that served as an EP-like bridge between their albums, featuring raw hip-hop tracks without formal charting but influencing underground Japanese rap circuits. Additionally, the 2022 track "Morë Tonight" with Teriyaki Boyz functioned as a standalone single reuniting the group under Nigo's direction for a nostalgic, party-oriented vibe that hit 2.6 million streams as of November 2025.[101][102][96]| Title | Release Date | Label | Key Collaborators | Notable Metrics (Spotify Streams as of Nov 2025) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tokyo Drift (Fast & Furious) (Teriyaki Boyz, prod. Nigo) | June 2006 | Interscope | Teriyaki Boyz | 528M |
| Arya | January 28, 2022 | Victor Victor/Republic | A$AP Rocky | 58M |
| Hear Me Clearly | March 2022 | Victor Victor/Republic | Pusha T | 14M |
| Heavy | March 18, 2022 | Victor Victor/Republic | Lil Uzi Vert | 34M |
| Dope Boy | September 27, 2024 | Victor Victor/Republic | Young Thug | 9.7M |
| Alley Oop | February 28, 2025 | Victor Victor | Peso Pluma, Duki | 22.5M |
| Morë Tonight (Teriyaki Boyz feat. Nigo) | March 2022 | Victor Victor/Republic | Teriyaki Boyz | 2.6M |
