Hubbry Logo
Curly Girl MethodCurly Girl MethodMain
Open search
Curly Girl Method
Community hub
Curly Girl Method
logo
8 pages, 0 posts
0 subscribers
Be the first to start a discussion here.
Be the first to start a discussion here.
Curly Girl Method
Curly Girl Method
Curly Girl Method
View on Wikipedia
from Wikipedia
Curly Girl Method

The Curly Girl Method is an approach to hair care designed by author Lorraine Massey for textured hair in its natural state (coils, waves, and curls) that has not been chemically relaxed. This method discourages the daily use of sulfate shampoo, which is considered too harsh for curly hair. Among other things, it calls for the use of a cleansing conditioner in place of shampoo (also called "conditioner washing" or "co-washing"), no silicones (used in many commercial conditioners and styling products), the use of a diffuser when blowdrying, and no combs, brushes, or terrycloth towels. It also includes tips for using hair gel and other styling products. The goal is to treat naturally curly hair gently, minimizing damage to the hair cuticle; to keep it moisturized, since curly hair is more prone to dryness than straight hair; and to accentuate rather than interfere with the hair's natural curl pattern.[1][2][3][4][5][6][7][8][9]

History

[edit]
Woman with an afro

While variations of the method had been in use before then, in 2001, it was introduced to a wider audience by hairstylist Lorraine Massey, founder of the Devachan Salons. Lorraine had parted ways with DevaCurl few years ago[when?] and is now the owner and founder of Curly World products and Spiral XYZ Curl Salon in New York City. When Curly Girl: The Handbook was first published, straight hair was the prevailing style for women in the United States, the United Kingdom, and elsewhere, and many women felt pressured to straighten their hair with flat irons or chemical relaxers. Massey writes in her introduction about growing up in England, where she was ridiculed for having curly hair. When she moved to New York City, she had an eye-opening experience: "Jewish, Italian, Latino, and African-American people living around me had curly hair that looked like mine! I no longer looked or felt like an outsider."[1]

Since the early 2010s, curly hairstyles have become more popular and championed by many celebrities.[10]

Variations

[edit]
Woman with curly hair

People with various hair textures have adapted the method to their needs. Popular variations include the use of sulfate-free shampoos as well as occasional blow-drying with the use of heat protectants and a diffuser instead of a standard hair dryer. An additional step in the curly hair care routine includes the use of deep conditioners once a week. These deep conditioning treatments work more effectively if they are performed weekly . Application of heat by using thermal heat caps helps deep conditioners penetrate the cuticle better leaving the hair more moisturised.

The method is also used by men; the name "curly girl" reflects the relative importance of hair care to women and girls due to societal expectations.[11] The method can also be used on kinky, coily, and wavy hair, which are often treated as curly hair types or "curl patterns" on hair care websites and in hair typing systems.

As co-washing has become more popular, consumer demand has spawned a new hair product, the "cleansing co-wash", which proponents claim removes buildup from the hair and scalp without the harsh "stripping" or drying effects of traditional shampoo.

Massey's book also includes techniques for cutting curly hair, such as cutting the hair when dry rather than wet.[12] Related hair cutting techniques include the Deva cut,[13] Ouidad cut,[14] and RI CI cut.[15] Deva Cut, which is created by Lorraine Massey, is widely popular now. It involves cutting each curl individually and at an angle so as to not disrupt the curl pattern.[16]

Other authors have written curly hair care guides which focus on specific hair types. Curly Like Me: How to Grow Your Hair Healthy, Long, and Strong by Teri LaFlesh provides natural hair care tips especially for tight curls.[17] Better than Good Hair: The Curly Girl Guide to Healthy, Gorgeous Natural Hair by Nikki Walton focuses on afro-textured hair.[18] Writers at the Naturally Curly website provide hair care advice based on curl pattern, porosity, density, hair thickness and other factors.[19]

The curly girl method also requires one to know one's hair porosity. There are low, medium and high hair porosity. Low hair porosity is when the hair cuticles are tightly shut. Low porosity hair has difficulty obtaining moisture but once moisture is absorbed it will remain moisturized. This porosity type is common with hair that has suffered little to no damage (either from heat styling tools or from chemicals) and thus it is the preferred porosity level. Medium porosity hair is when the hair cuticles are loose, allowing moisture to be easily absorbed and retained. High porosity is when there are gaps in the hair cuticles which allows the hair to easily absorb the moisture but also easily lose the moisture just as easily as it was absorbed. These gaps are caused by long term damage to the hair from things like over-manipulation, heat damage and chemical damage from hair dyes and relaxers.[20]

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Curly Girl Method

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is a hair care regimen developed by American hairstylist Massey for individuals with naturally curly, wavy, or coily textures, emphasizing the use of sulfate-free cleansing, silicone-free conditioning, and manual techniques to define and maintain curl patterns without reliance on heat tools or brushes. First outlined in her 2002 book Curly Girl: The Handbook, the approach promotes a no-poo (or low-poo) routine involving co-washing with conditioner, plopping for drying, and scrunching to enhance natural curl formation while avoiding ingredients that may strip moisture or cause buildup. Massey, founder of the Devachan Salon in , drew from her professional experience to codify the method as a response to conventional products and practices that often damage textured by promoting straightness or frizz control over curl health. The regimen has achieved widespread adoption through online communities, product lines certified as "CG-friendly," and Massey's subsequent enterprises like CurlyWorld, fostering a dedicated to curl acceptance and customization based on , , and . Despite its popularity, the Curly Girl Method lacks empirical support from controlled scientific studies, with proponents relying primarily on anecdotal reports of improved curl definition and reduced breakage, while critics argue that blanket prohibitions on shampoos and silicones ignore individual needs and chemistry, potentially leading to residue accumulation or inadequate cleansing. Some dermatological perspectives highlight that while hydration-focused care aligns with general principles for textured , the method's rigid rules may not suit all users and contradict evidence favoring periodic use for sebum removal.

Origins and History

Development and Publication

The Curly Girl Method was developed by hairstylist Lorraine Massey during the 1990s, drawing from her professional experiences in managing curly and wavy hair at the Devachan Salon, which she co-founded with Denis DaSilva in in 1994. There, Massey observed that conventional products and straightening techniques often damaged curls, leading her to experiment with sulfate-free cleansing, conditioning-focused routines, and methods to enhance natural curl patterns without chemical alterations. These practices evolved into a structured approach emphasizing minimal manipulation and hydration to preserve curl integrity, predating widespread formalization but building on informal techniques used by some curly-haired individuals. Massey formalized and disseminated the method through her book Curly Girl: The Handbook, first published on December 20, 2001, by Workman Publishing. The book outlined core rules such as avoiding shampoos with sulfates, silicones, and drying alcohols, while promoting co-washing, deep conditioning, and scrunching techniques to define curls. It gained traction among stylists and consumers seeking alternatives to straightening trends, with Massey crediting her salon's clientele for refining the approach through trial and observation. An expanded second edition appeared in 2011, incorporating updated product recommendations and addressing common adaptations, though the foundational principles remained consistent with the original.

Roots in Natural Hair Movements

The natural hair movement emerged in the United States during the as part of the "Black is Beautiful" campaign, promoting the rejection of chemical relaxers, straightening processes, and European beauty standards in favor of embracing kinky, coily, and curly textures inherent to people of African descent. This period saw widespread adoption of afros and natural styles, influenced by civil rights activism and figures like , who earlier advocated for racial pride including natural in the 1920s, though the marked its peak cultural surge with events like the . The movement emphasized through avoidance of damaging and chemicals, laying foundational practices such as deep conditioning and protective styling that preserved moisture and definition in textured . By the late and early , a resurgence of the gained momentum, driven by online communities, blogs, and increased awareness of chemical treatment risks like scalp irritation and breakage, extending beyond communities to include those with wavy and looser curls. This revival aligned with environmental concerns over synthetic ingredients and paralleled the "no-poo" trend of minimizing shampoos to retain natural oils. Massey, a hairstylist who founded the Devachan Salon in in the specializing in , capitalized on this wave by developing the Curly Girl Method, detailed in her 2001 book Curly Girl: The Handbook. Massey's approach codified rules like - and sulfate-free cleansing, conditioner-only washing, and techniques such as plopping and diffusing, which echoed tenets by prioritizing curl hydration and pattern enhancement over straightening. While the Curly Girl Method broadened the movement's principles to a diverse audience including those with type 2 and 3 curls, its core avoidance of drying agents and emphasis on product buildup removal directly paralleled longstanding care strategies for managing high-porosity, moisture-dependent textures. Massey's method represented a mainstream formalization, influencing product lines like DevaCurl (which she co-founded before its sale) and fostering global curly communities, though it built upon decades of experimentation in natural hair resilience against environmental and styling damage. This integration helped propel the movement into the digital age, with platforms amplifying shared routines and reducing reliance on professional chemical services.

Core Principles

Fundamental Rules

The fundamental rules of the Curly Girl Method, developed by stylist Lorraine Massey and detailed in her 2002 book Curly Girl (revised as Curly Girl: The Handbook in 2011), focus on protecting the hair's natural lipid barrier, reducing , and enhancing curl definition by eliminating practices and ingredients that disrupt moisture retention or cause mechanical damage. These rules prioritize gentle cleansing, minimal manipulation, and air-drying to align with the method's premise that curly hair's structure—formed by protein bonds and hydrogen bonds—requires hydration over stripping agents found in conventional . Massey attributes poor curl outcomes to over-cleansing and heat, advocating instead for product choices that mimic the scalp's sebum production. Key prohibitions include sulfates, which are anionic surfactants in traditional shampoos (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate) that efficiently remove oils but also strip the hair's protective , leading to dryness in textured hair types. Silicones, often ending in "-cone" (e.g., dimethicone), are avoided due to their water-insoluble nature, which causes buildup on porous curly strands, preventing moisture penetration despite providing temporary smoothness. Drying alcohols, such as or , are excluded as they evaporate quickly and dehydrate the shaft, exacerbating fragility in curls that lack straight hair's even sebum distribution. Additional rules target handling and styling: dry hair must not be brushed or combed, as this disrupts curl clusters and increases breakage by pulling on weakened bonds; instead, detangling occurs in the shower with conditioner using fingers or a wide-tooth . tools like blow dryers and flat irons are forbidden, with Massey recommending only if necessary and at low settings to preserve bonds that define curls. towels are replaced by cloths or T-shirts to reduce and absorb excess water without roughening the . Cleansing shifts to co-washing (conditioner-only washes) or rare use of sulfate-free shampoos on the , with conditioners applied mid-lengths to ends for slip and hydration. These rules form a no-poo variant in practice, though Massey allows clarifying shampoos periodically for buildup removal, emphasizing observation of hair response over rigid adherence. Transitioning may involve a 2-4 week "no-poo" phase to purge residues, during which hair may appear oily before improving. While empirically derived from Massey's salon experience with thousands of clients since the , the rules lack large-scale clinical validation, relying on anecdotal efficacy for wavy to coily textures (types 2-4).

Step-by-Step Routine

The Curly Girl Method routine, developed by Lorraine Massey, emphasizes a low-manipulation approach to preserve natural curl patterns through three core phases: cleansing, conditioning, and styling. These steps are performed infrequently to minimize disruption to hair's moisture balance, with washing frequency adjusted by curl type—typically once weekly for wavy hair, every 10 days for curly hair with weekly co-washes, and as rarely as possible for coily hair, favoring co-washes over s. Initial adoption often includes a "reset" clarifying wash with a to remove buildup from prior routines, though this is not part of the ongoing method. Cleansing Phase:
Begin by thoroughly wetting hair, then apply a sulfate-free or co-wash (cleansing conditioner) directly to the using fingertips for circular to loosen dirt and oils without lathering the lengths. Rinse thoroughly while directing water flow to cleanse strands indirectly. Avoid combs or excessive friction on lengths to prevent ; this phase targets buildup rather than full-hair stripping. Conditioning Phase:
Immediately after cleansing, distribute a generous amount of silicone-free conditioner from roots to ends, using the "squish to condish" technique—compressing sections of repeatedly to encourage product absorption and curl clumping. Detangle gently with fingers or a wide-tooth while conditioner is applied, allowing it to sit for 3–5 minutes or longer for deeper hydration, especially for damaged or coily hair. Rinse partially, leaving some conditioner in for moisture retention, as complete removal can lead to dryness. Styling Phase:
With hair still soaking wet, apply leave-in conditioner first for moisture and detangling, followed by layering a water-soluble styling mousse on top for soft hold and curl definition (providing lighter, softer hold than ) or or , scrunched gently into sections to define curls. Gently blot excess water using a , cloth, or plopping method (hair gathered atop head in a cloth wrap for 10–20 minutes) to reduce frizz without rubbing. Air-dry undisturbed or use a diffuser on low heat with cupping motion to avoid disturbance; once dry, perform "scrunch out the crunch" by gently scrunching to soften or mousse cast and reveal soft curls. Avoid brushes, heat tools above low settings, or towels throughout to prevent breakage and poofiness.

Hair Typing Systems

The Curly Girl Method categorizes hair types primarily through curl pattern to guide product selection and styling techniques, adapting the system introduced in 1999 by stylist . This classification emphasizes types 2 through 4, as type 1 (straight hair) lacks the wave or coil structure central to the method's focus on enhancing natural texture without chemical alteration or drying agents. Subtypes within each category (A, B, C) reflect increasing curl tightness, from loosest/widest (A) to tightest/narrowest (C), aiding in predicting moisture needs and frizz propensity. Type 2 hair exhibits an S-shaped wave pattern, with 2A featuring subtle, fine waves prone to straightening; 2B showing more defined mid-length waves with a flatter root area; and 2C displaying thicker, frizzier waves that bend tightly from the roots. Type 3 hair forms true curls, including 3A's loose, shiny spirals similar in size to sidewalk chalk; 3B's springier ringlets akin to a Sharpie marker; and 3C's compact corkscrews comparable to a drinking straw. Type 4 hair consists of coils or zigzags, with 4A's softer S-patterned coils resembling a crochet needle; 4B's sharper Z-zigzags requiring techniques like palm-rolling for definition; and 4C's dense, tight patterns often indistinguishable in length due to shrinkage. While this system provides a foundational framework for the Curly Girl Method's routines, as referenced in Massey's guidance for curl-specific care, it has limitations in accounting for intra-strand variation, multi-textured heads, or ancillary properties like and elasticity, which better predict behavior empirically. Advanced scientific alternatives, such as those measuring curl diameter and pitch via tools like curl meters, offer more precise metrics but remain less adopted in popular curly communities.
Hair TypeSubtypeKey Characteristics
Type 2: Wavy2ASubtle S-waves, fine texture, wide , easily straightened.
2BDefined S-waves from mid-lengths, medium , flatter roots.
2CTight S-bends from roots, thicker, frizz-prone, smaller .
Type 3: Curly3ALoose, large- curls (chalk-sized), shiny, low .
3BSpringy ringlets (marker-sized), medium , bouncy.
3CTight corkscrews (straw-sized), small , higher frizz potential.
Type 4: Coily4ASoft S-coils (needle-sized), wide , dense.
4BZ-shaped kinks, medium , angular bends.
4CTight zigzags, small , significant shrinkage, fragile.

Product Guidelines

Ingredients to Avoid

The Curly Girl Method, as outlined in Lorraine Massey's handbook, recommends avoiding sulfates in shampoos and cleansers because they act as strong detergents that strip the hair of its natural oils, exacerbating the dryness inherent to curly hair textures where sebum distribution is hindered by the hair's coiled structure. Common sulfates to avoid include sodium lauryl sulfate, , , and sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate. Silicones are also prohibited due to their potential to create a water-repellent on the shaft, leading to buildup that weighs down curls and requires harsh clarifying shampoos for removal, which further dries the . The method targets water-insoluble varieties such as dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, and those ending in suffixes like -cone, -conol, or -xane. Parabens, such as methylparaben and propylparaben, are preservatives that should also be avoided due to concerns over their potential to mimic estrogen, interfere with hormonal balance, and accumulate in the body via skin absorption. Drying alcohols, such as , , and propanol, should be eschewed as they evaporate quickly and draw from the , compounding dehydration in curls that already retain less hydration than straight hair. Mineral oils and petroleum-derived waxes are similarly avoided for forming occlusive barriers that prevent penetration without providing true nourishment, potentially leading to dullness and fragility over time. While the method's founder emphasizes these restrictions based on observational experience with curly clients since the early , scientific validation remains limited, with some cosmetic chemists noting that not all silicones or alcohols behave uniformly across hair types and that buildup concerns may depend on usage rather than inherent toxicity. The Curly Girl Method recommends sulfate-free cleansers, such as no-poo formulations or co-washes using conditioner, to gently cleanse the without stripping oils. Silicone-free conditioners are advised for detangling and hydration, often left partially unrinsed to maintain , with application involving finger-combing to preserve curl integrity. Styling products like leave-in gels or creams formulated without silicones, waxes, or drying alcohols are suggested to define curls, applied by raking through wet hair and scrunching upward. Key techniques emphasize minimal manipulation to reduce frizz and breakage. Cleansing involves massaging the with fingers to distribute product, followed by thorough rinsing while avoiding vigorous rubbing. Detangling occurs in-shower with conditioner using wide-tooth combs or fingers only, never on dry hair. For styling, "scrunching out the water" (scrunch out, or SOTC) removes excess moisture by gently squeezing sections upward with a cloth or T-shirt, while "scrunch out the crunch" (SOTC) later breaks gel cast by applying oil or conditioner and scrunching to soften hold without disrupting . Plopping secures wet hair in a T-shirt atop the head for 10-30 minutes to set roots and enhance definition without gravity-induced flattening. Drying prefers air-drying or low-heat diffusing with a hooded dryer or diffuser attachment, cupping curls to encourage clumping rather than direct .

Variations and Adaptations

Official and Unofficial Modifications

The Curly Girl Method, as outlined by Massey in the original 2002 Curly Girl and expanded in the 2011 revised edition Curly Girl: The , incorporates official refinements rather than fundamental alterations to its core tenets of sulfate- and silicone-free cleansing, conditioning, and styling without heat tools or brushing on dry hair. These updates include enhanced guidance on curl typing (e.g., distinguishing waves from coils via subtypes like 2A to ), protein treatments for damaged strands, and for issues like buildup, while preserving the no-poo (shampoo-free) preference through co-washing with conditioner. The handbook's expansions, increasing content by over a third, also address scalp and product application techniques, such as finger-coiling for definition, but emphasize strict avoidance of drying alcohols and mineral oils to prevent and breakage. Unofficial modifications, often developed by online communities and individual users, deviate from these principles to accommodate hair porosity, density, or environmental factors, though Massey has publicly discouraged labeling them as "modified CGM" to avoid diluting the method's integrity. Common adaptations include occasional clarifying shampoos with sulfates for heavy buildup in hard-water areas or high-porosity hair, or incorporating heat protectants and low-heat diffusing for faster drying without full abandonment of air-drying. For wavy textures (2A-2B), unofficial variants like the "Wavy Girl Method" reduce reliance in favor of lightweight creams and plopping with a to enhance subtle patterns without weighing down finer strands, as strict gel-heavy styling can flatten waves. These user-driven changes prioritize personalization over rigid rules, with reports of improved manageability but risks of reintroducing if core ingredient avoids are ignored.

Applications to Diverse Hair Textures

The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is primarily designed for hair textures exhibiting natural waves, curls, or coils, classified under types 2 through 4 in the , where type 2 encompasses loose waves, type 3 defined curls, and type 4 tight coils or kinks. It proves less applicable to type 1 straight hair, which lacks inherent pattern and does not benefit from curl-enhancing techniques focused on moisture retention and cast formation. Adaptations across these textures emphasize core principles like - and silicone-free products but adjust for varying degrees of , , and dryness, with curlier types generally requiring intensified hydration to counteract structural fragility that leads to breakage. For type 2 wavy hair, modifications often include more frequent washing—up to every 2-3 days—since waves produce natural oils more efficiently than tighter patterns, reducing buildup risk from co-washing alone. Styling relies on lighter gels or mousses to avoid weighing down fine waves, with techniques like finger-coiling prioritized over plopping to prevent from excess manipulation. These adjustments yield enhanced definition without the heavy moisture layers suited to curlier textures, though results depend on individual , with low-porosity waves absorbing products slowly. Type 3 curly hair aligns most closely with the unmodified CGM, benefiting from standard steps like deep conditioning and diffusing to amplify ringlet formation and shine. Practitioners apply leave-in conditioners and gels in sections on soaking-wet hair to seal cuticles and combat mid-length dryness common in this texture. In type 4 coily or , adaptations intensify moisture protocols due to the texture's high and shrinkage, often incorporating the LOC (leave-in, oil, cream) or LCO layering post-cleansing to lock in hydration against environmental dehydration. Deep conditioning under for 15-30 minutes enhances penetration, while protective styles like twists or braids during drying minimize manipulation-induced shrinkage, which can exceed 75% in 4C subtypes. For specifically, some experts advocate starting routines on freshly shampooed, detangled strands rather than co-washing exclusively, to ensure thorough cleansing without residue that exacerbates tangling in dense, fragile coils. These variations maintain CGM's avoidance of drying agents but underscore the need for protein-rich treatments periodically to reinforce elasticity, as coily hair's tight pattern increases tensile weakness. Across textures, efficacy hinges on trial-based personalization, with finer or lower-density within types 2-4 tolerating less product to avoid limpness, while coarser variants demand heavier emollients. Empirical user reports indicate higher success rates in type 3 for bounce and reduced , whereas type 4 adaptations yield softer, more elongated coils but require consistent upkeep to sustain gains over baseline chemical damage.

Scientific Assessment

Empirical Evidence and Studies

The Curly Girl Method lacks dedicated peer-reviewed clinical trials evaluating its overall as a comprehensive routine for enhancing curl definition, reducing frizz, or improving health in individuals with wavy, curly, or coily textures. Existing on curly primarily examines structural properties, such as elliptical fiber cross-sections leading to increased torsional rigidity and mechanical vulnerability during grooming, rather than prescriptive care protocols. These studies highlight curly 's predisposition to higher , protein loss, and imbalance compared to straight , but do not test method-specific practices like plopping or scrunching. Key components of the method, such as avoiding sulfate-based surfactants, receive partial empirical support from ingredient-focused analyses. Sulfates like sodium lauryl sulfate or can elevate , hair fragility, and scalp dryness by stripping sebum and denaturing proteins, exacerbating dehydration in moisture-dependent curly fibers. However, single applications of sulfate-containing shampoos show no measurable impact on packing or structure in tensile tests, suggesting cumulative rather than acute damage. Gentler, sulfate-free cleansers align with recommendations for textured hair prone to depletion, though no controlled trials isolate sulfate avoidance's benefits for curl retention versus general hydration strategies. The method's prohibition on silicones contradicts some evidence for their utility in curly hair care. Water-dispersible and amino-functional silicones form protective films that enhance curl definition, mitigate dryness, and reduce by smoothing cuticles and preserving , particularly in textured fibers. Insoluble variants like dimethicone risk buildup, potentially weighing down curls and impeding absorption, but mitigate this without necessitating total avoidance. Empirical data favor selective use over blanket exclusion, as silicones' lubricating effects can counteract the high inter-fiber observed in curly hair. Co-washing (conditioner-only cleansing), a core CGM technique, offers gentleness that may curb breakage in dry-prone curls but risks residue accumulation under cuticles and suboptimal scalp decontamination, fostering sebum overload or . No comparative trials demonstrate co-washing's superiority to low-sulfate shampoos for ; satisfaction correlates more with wash (e.g., 5–6 times weekly) and individual sebum production than method alone. Oils like , endorsed for sealing moisture, empirically limit protein loss in wet combing tests, supporting ancillary CGM emphases on emollients. Overall, while elemental principles draw from established hair chemistry—such as prioritizing resistance and integrity—the method's untested synergies limit causal attribution of outcomes to its protocol.

Limitations and Pseudoscientific Claims

The Curly Girl Method imposes strict prohibitions on certain ingredients and practices that lack robust empirical support, potentially leading to suboptimal health for some users. For instance, the blanket avoidance of all silicones overlooks their diversity; water-soluble variants like amodimethicone do not accumulate and can enhance manageability without impeding moisture absorption, as demonstrated by formulation-specific analyses rather than categorical bans. Similarly, the method's rejection of sulfates as inherently harsh ignores that their cleansing efficacy depends on molecular structure and overall product formulation, with some sulfate-free alternatives proving more irritating to the . These rules, derived from anecdotal observations rather than controlled studies, can foster unnecessary restriction, complicating product selection without proportional benefits. A core tenet, the "no-poo" approach of co-washing without detergent, carries risks of sebum and product accumulation, which undermines hygiene and may exacerbate conditions like seborrheic or thinning, as periodic clarifying is essential for removing residues regardless of curl type. Empirical data on wash frequency indicates that regular shampooing maintains condition without adverse effects, contradicting claims that natural oils alone suffice for all textures. Claims linking parabens to health risks, such as cancer, similarly lack substantiation from peer-reviewed research, reflecting broader in non-scientific advocacy. The method's foundational assertion that eschewing specific ingredients restores innate curl patterns overstates causal mechanisms, as hair morphology is predominantly genetic and unaltered by topical regimens; any observed definition stems from hydration and styling techniques, not reversal of purported "damage" from conventional products. Limited studies on curly hair formulations underscore the need for individualized approaches over dogmatic protocols, with CGM's pseudoscientific elements—such as oversimplified ingredient demonization—potentially delaying evidence-based care like balanced protein-moisture routines. While harmless for some, these unverified tenets can lead to imbalances, such as over-conditioning or neglected clarification, highlighting the absence of randomized trials validating the method's universality.

Reception and Criticisms

Anecdotal Successes and Popularity

The Curly Girl Method has achieved significant popularity since the publication of Lorraine Massey's book Curly Girl: The Handbook in 2001, with sustained growth driven by adoption among individuals with wavy, curly, or coily textures. By 2025, the associated hashtag #curlygirlmethod on had amassed over 3 billion views, reflecting widespread engagement particularly among Gen-Z and millennial users seeking to enhance natural curl patterns. This surge aligns with broader trends, as approximately 58% of U.S. adults report having wavy, curly, or coily , creating a large potential for curl-focused routines. Anecdotal reports from adherents frequently highlight improvements in health and appearance after consistent application, often citing reduced , enhanced curl definition, and increased hydration as key outcomes. For instance, users describe noticeable curl enhancement within 2-3 weeks, transitioning from frizzy, undefined textures to more vibrant ringlets or waves once sulfates and silicones are eliminated. Personal accounts in publications note transformative effects after several months, such as minimized breakage and a shift toward embracing natural textures over straightening, with one reviewer stating the method "changed my life" through better moisture retention for drier types. These self-reported successes are commonly shared in curly hair communities, where initial challenges like greasy buildup during the "no-poo" transition phase give way to sustained benefits, encouraging long-term adherence.

Common Failures and Debates

Many individuals report that the Curly Girl Method (CGM) fails to produce defined curls or leads to issues such as limp hair, greasiness, or scalp irritation, particularly for those with low-porosity or fine wavy hair (types 2A-2B), where the method's emphasis on heavy moisturizers can weigh down strands without enhancing pattern. This mismatch arises because CGM was primarily developed for higher-porosity, coarser curls that retain moisture poorly, ignoring variations in hair porosity that affect product absorption and buildup risk. Implementation errors exacerbate failures, including inadequate clarifying to remove residue from conditioner-only washes (co-washing), resulting in dull, un-clumped curls or prolonged drying times exceeding several hours. Users often overlook scalp health, leading to dryness or flakiness from avoidance without sufficient alternatives, as clarifying shampoos are used infrequently (e.g., monthly). Debates center on CGM's foundational claims, which lack robust empirical support and rely on anecdotal observations rather than controlled studies, prompting critics to label aspects as pseudoscientific, such as blanket prohibitions on all silicones or sulfates without distinguishing soluble versus insoluble variants. For instance, while insoluble silicones may coat and hinder moisture penetration, water-soluble ones rinse cleanly and provide detangling benefits, challenging CGM's rigid "no-silicone" rule as overly simplistic. Proponents argue it restores natural curl health by minimizing harsh detergents, but detractors, including cosmetic chemists, contend it is outdated and ignores evidence that mild sulfates can cleanse effectively without stripping oils in moderation. The method's time-intensive routines—such as plopping for 20-30 minutes post-wash and daily deep conditioning—also spark over practicality, with some users abandoning it due to unsustainable demands amid modern lifestyles, despite initial improvements. These controversies highlight CGM's variability, where success depends heavily on trial-and-error personalization rather than universal applicability.

Cultural and Commercial Impact

Influence on the Hair Care Market

The Curly Girl Method (CGM) has driven demand for specialized products by promoting routines that exclude sulfates, silicones, drying alcohols, and heat styling, thereby encouraging formulations tailored to curly, wavy, and coily textures. This consumer shift has contributed to the segmentation of the industry into curl-specific lines, with brands developing "CGM-compliant" offerings to meet heightened awareness of texture needs. Lorraine Massey's 2001 Curly Girl: The Handbook, which codified the method, originated from her Devachan salons and influenced the creation of product ranges focused on natural curl enhancement, including early associations with DevaCurl prior to her departure in 2013. Market data reflects this influence, as the global curly hair care and styling products sector reached approximately USD 10.6 billion in 2024, with projections to USD 17.8 billion amid a (CAGR) driven by ingredient-conscious trends aligned with CGM principles. In , textured hair care accounts for 35% of the total market, bolstered by routines like CGM that emphasize multi-product application for cleansing, conditioning, and styling. The method's alignment with the clean beauty movement has further amplified growth in natural hair care products, valued at USD 10.17 billion globally in 2024 and expected to expand at a CAGR of over 5% through 2030. Social media amplification of CGM since the 2010s has intensified market effects, with platforms like and promoting product recommendations and routines that increase per-consumer spending through layered applications. This has led to higher adoption of and indie brands catering to curl patterns, alongside mainstream lines incorporating CGM-inspired claims, though empirical sales attribution remains indirect amid broader factors like rising consciousness. Overall, CGM has catalyzed a niche within the industry valued for its focus on empirical curl response over universal formulas, spurring innovation in humectant-based and protein-enriched products.

Societal and Individual Outcomes

The Curly Girl Method has yielded varied individual outcomes, with many adherents reporting enhanced curl definition, reduced , and improved moisture retention in their hair due to the avoidance of sulfates, silicones, and heat styling. These benefits stem from techniques like co-washing and diffusing, which minimize mechanical damage and promote natural sebum distribution along the hair shaft. However, results are not universal; some individuals experience adverse effects such as scalp buildup from heavy conditioners, temporary increased shedding during the transition phase, or diminished efficacy over time due to factors like hair mismatches or improper protein-moisture balance. On a personal level, the method has fostered greater among those with wavy to coily hair textures, as embracing unmodified curls often correlates with reduced reliance on chemical relaxers or straighteners, potentially lowering long-term breakage rates. Yet, empirical validation remains limited, with outcomes largely anecdotal rather than supported by controlled studies, highlighting the influence of individual biology and adherence fidelity. Societally, the Curly Girl Method has amplified the natural hair movement by popularizing routines that prioritize texture over straightening, drawing from longstanding practices in care communities and encouraging broader cultural shifts toward diverse beauty standards. This has contributed to greater visibility for curly and coily in media and workplaces, challenging historical biases favoring straight and reducing some discriminatory pressures on textured wearers. Nonetheless, it has sparked debates over cultural appropriation, as the method's mainstream adoption by non-Black individuals sometimes overlooks its in African diaspora traditions without sufficient acknowledgment. Overall, while promoting inclusivity, these outcomes reflect a tension between and the commercialization of communal knowledge, with limited quantitative data on widespread societal health or economic divergences.

References

  1. https://www.curlyworld.com/cgmethod
  2. https://www.ecco-verde.ie/info/beauty-blog/curly-girl-method-with-natural-cosmetics
  3. https://curlmaven.ie/what-is-the-curly-girl-method/
  4. https://www.newsweek.com/what-curly-girl-method-lorraine-massey-cgm-beginners-cg-friendly-products-1608253
  5. https://www.lovecurlyhair.com/the-origins-of-the-curly-girl-method/
  6. https://www.amazon.com/Curly-Girl-Handbook-Michele-Bender/dp/076115678X
  7. https://www.tothecurlmarket.com/the-curly-girl-method-doesnt-work/
  8. https://wavyhaircare.com/the-real-curly-girl-method-isnt-what-the-internet-taught-me/
  9. https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/curly-girl-method
  10. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6894537/
  11. https://themessybunmafia.com/the-history-of-the-curly-girl-method/
  12. https://medium.com/authority-magazine/author-lorraine-massey-of-the-curly-girl-movement-five-things-anyone-can-do-to-have-fabulous-hair-24f78fdbb26
  13. https://www.reddit.com/r/curlyhair/comments/y1dx12/origin_of_cgm/
  14. https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/8510227-curly-girl
  15. https://www.amazon.com/Curly-Girl-Michele-Bender/dp/0761123008
  16. https://www.curlyworld.com/ourfounder
  17. https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/natural-hair-industry-history-evolution
  18. https://uptowncurl.com/a-brief-history-of-the-natural-hair-movement/
  19. https://lohy.com.au/blogs/news/the-evolution-of-the-natural-hair-movement-where-the-curly-girl-movement-began
  20. https://yr.media/identity/naps-knots-and-all-my-natural-hair/
  21. https://www.beautycon.com/article/curly-girl-method-founder-lorraine-massey-talks-about-the-evolution-of-a-regimen-that-changed-hair-culture
  22. https://www.lockenbox.com/en/blogs/styling-techniken/die-curly-girl-methode-von-lorraine-massey
  23. https://neofollics.com/blogs/articles/curly-girl-method
  24. https://curlcare.in/blogs/hair-care/what-is-the-curly-girl-rule
  25. https://www.gingerandmaude.com/blog/curly-girl-method
  26. https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/beauty/a34292024/curly-girl-method-how-to/
  27. https://www.lovecurlyhair.com/the-curly-girl-method-simplified/
  28. https://www.byrdie.com/curly-girl-method-4771933
  29. https://www.curlsbot.com/blog/the-science-of-hair-typing
  30. https://www.allure.com/gallery/curl-hair-type-guide
  31. https://www.curlsbot.com/blog/the-curly-girl-method-guide
  32. https://www.curlsbot.com/ingredients-cheat-sheet
  33. https://thecuriousjalebi.com/2017/03/27/cg-method-curly-hair-ingredients-avoid/
  34. https://www.salontotal.co.uk/blog/202404-curly-girl-method-which-ingredients-to-avoid-and-why
  35. https://redcarpetcurls.com/curly-girl-method-ingredients-to-avoid/
  36. https://www.letscurlup.com/blogs/haircareblog/a-curly-girls-guide-to-ingredients-in-the-product
  37. https://themestizamuse.com/the-curly-girl-method-the-misinformation-about-ingredients/
  38. https://www.wmagazine.com/beauty/curly-girl-method-creator-lorraine-massey-honest-haircare-tips-advice
  39. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssUcbBi4FlQ
  40. https://www.reddit.com/r/curlyhair/comments/l7pj7f/lorraine_massey_doesnt_want_people_to_use/
  41. https://www.byrdie.com/curly-girl-method-wavy-hair-5341348
  42. https://allwavyhair.com/2020/08/05/wavy-hair-method-cgm/
  43. https://hairlust.com/blogs/blog/the-curly-girl-method-before-after
  44. https://www.kurlify.com/en/curly-girl-method/curly-girl-method-for-coily-hair/
  45. https://wavyhaircare.com/how-to-modify-the-curly-girl-method-for-wavy-hair/
  46. https://www.slayathomemother.com/the-curly-girl-method-for-wavy-hair/
  47. https://www.beautycon.com/article/the-curly-girl-method-for-coily-hair
  48. https://www.blackbeautyandhair.com/why-4c-hair-needs-its-own-set-of-curly-girl-rules/
  49. https://curlsmith.com/blogs/curl-academy/coily-hair
  50. https://www.gorgeouslybeautiful.com/blogs/news/curly-girl-method-variations-for-different-curl-types
  51. https://www.curlynikki.com/curl-defining-methods-for-4c-natural.html
  52. https://www.reddit.com/r/HaircareScience/comments/ffe7kk/the_curly_girl_method_and_scientific_evidence/
  53. https://www.reddit.com/r/curlyhair/comments/1s1x1b/is_there_any_peerreviewed_research_on_the_curly/
  54. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6489037/
  55. https://www.healthline.com/health/sulfate-in-shampoo
  56. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4636411/
  57. https://pedsderm.net/site/assets/files/1028/spd_edi_curly-coily-hair_bw_pub.pdf
  58. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12240587/
  59. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8138261/
  60. https://labmuffin.com/amodimethicone-my-new-favourite-hair-ingredient/
  61. https://labmuffin.com/should-you-be-avoiding-parabens-the-science/
  62. https://www.newindianexpress.com/cities/bengaluru/2025/Jan/15/gen-z-and-millennials-embrace-natural-curls-with-the-curly-girl-method
  63. https://ads.tiktok.com/business/creativecenter/hashtag/curlygirlmethod/mobile/en?countryCode=SA&period=7
  64. https://holisticenchilada.com/curly-hair-facts-statistics-survey-results/
  65. https://www.beautycon.com/article/i-tried-the-curly-girl-method-this-is-what-happened-bi
  66. https://www.thecandidly.com/article/im-six-months-into-the-curly-girl-method-and-its-changed-my-life
  67. https://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/article/curly-girl-method
  68. https://www.realsimple.com/beauty-fashion/hair/hair-care/curly-girl-method-review
  69. https://www.reddit.com/r/curlyhair/comments/txaive/why_the_cgm_curly_girl_method_didnt_work_for_me/
  70. https://www.lovecurlyhair.com/curly-girl-method-not-working/
  71. https://www.beautycon.com/article/here-are-the-top-5-mistakes-wavies-make-when-starting-the-curly-girl-method
  72. https://www.curlclub.ca/blog/common-mistakes-when-following-cgm
  73. https://www.reddit.com/r/curlyhair/comments/xmkw80/cgm_is_probably_whats_causing_all_your_hair/
  74. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ifKJSRPrLM
  75. https://www.lusidhair.com/blogs/news/revolutionize-your-curls-the-shocking-pros-and-cons-of-the-curly-girl-method-you-need-to-know
  76. https://www.openpr.com/news/4231995/curly-hair-care-and-styling-products-market-to-register
  77. https://www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb/resources/blog/advancing-the-future-of-textured-hair-solutions
  78. https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/natural-hair-care-products-market
  79. https://datahorizzonresearch.com/curly-hair-care-and-styling-products-market-45635
  80. https://www.bodyandsoul.com.au/beauty/hair-care/the-curly-hair-tax/media-gallery/398334fc72d9561425c3d60d340cf6ac
  81. https://www.metastatinsight.com/report/curly-hair-care-and-styling-products-market
  82. https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/press-release/curly-hair-care-and-styling-products-market.html
  83. https://www.healthline.com/health/curly-girl-method
  84. https://bosscurlco.com/blogs/curltalktv/why-the-curly-girl-method-doesnt-work-for-everyone
  85. https://www.shortform.com/books/blog/curly-hair-discrimination.html
  86. https://www.hercampus.com/school/queens-u/curly-girl-method-and-appropriating-black-culture/
Add your contribution
Related Hubs
User Avatar
No comments yet.