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Cornrows
Cornrows
Cornrows
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Cornrows (also called canerows) are a style of three-strand braids in which the hair is braided very close to the scalp, using an underhand, upward motion to make a continuous, raised row.[1] Cornrows are often done in simple, straight lines, as the term implies, but they can also be styled in elaborate geometric or curvilinear designs. They are considered a traditional hairstyle of African braiding practice in many African cultures, as well as in the African diaspora.[2][3][4] They are distinct from, but may resemble, box braids, Dutch braids, melon coiffures, and other forms of plaited hair, and are typically tighter than braids used in other cultures.[5]

The name cornrows refers to the layout of crops in corn and sugar cane fields in the Americas and Caribbean,[1][6] where enslaved Africans were displaced during the Atlantic slave trade.[7] According to Black folklore, cornrows were often used to communicate on the Underground Railroad and by Benkos Biohó during his time as a slave in Colombia.[8] They often serve as a form of Black self-expression,[9] especially among African Americans,[1] but have been stigmatized in some cultures.[4][10] Cornrows are traditionally called "kolese" or "irun didi" in Yoruba, and are often nicknamed "didi braids" in the Nigerian diaspora.[11]

Cornrows are worn by both sexes, and are sometimes adorned with beads, shells, or hair cuffs.[1] The duration of braiding cornrows may take up to five hours, depending on the quantity and width.[12] Often favored for their easy maintenance, cornrows can be left in for weeks at a time if maintained through careful washing of the hair and natural oiling of the scalp. Braids are considered a protective styling on African curly hair as they allow for easy and restorative growth; braids pulled too tightly or worn for longer lengths of time and on different hair types can cause a type of hair loss known as traction alopecia.[13]

History

[edit]

Africa

[edit]
Portrait of Emperor Yohannes IV wearing traditional Ethiopian braids.

Cornrows originated in Africa,[1] where they likely developed in response to the unique textures of African hair,[14][15] and have held significance for different cultures throughout recorded history.[16][17][18] Early depictions of women with what appear to be cornrows have been found in Stone Age paintings in the Tassili Plateau of the Sahara, and have been dated as far back as 3000 B.C. A similar style is also seen in depictions of the ancient Cushitic people of the Horn of Africa, who appear to be wearing this style of braids as far back as 2000 B.C.[19] In Nubia, the remains of a young girl wearing cornrows has been dated to 550–750 A.D.[20] Cornrows have also been documented in the ancient Nok civilization in Nigeria,[21] in the Mende culture of Sierra Leone,[22] and the Dan culture of the Côte d'Ivoire.[16]

Women in West Africa have been attested wearing complex hairstyles of threaded or wrapped braids since at least the 18th century. These practices likely influenced the use of cornrows and headwraps (such as durags) among enslaved Africans taken to the Americas.[15] In Ethiopia and Eritrea, there are many braided hairstyles which may include cornrows or "shuruba", such as Habesha or Albaso braids, and Tigray shuriba.[23][24] Though such hairstyles have always been popular with women, Ethiopian men have also worn such hairstyles. In 19th century Ethiopia, male warriors and kings such as Tewodros II and Yohannes IV were depicted wearing braided hairstyles, including the shuruba.[25][26][27]

Cornrow hairstyles in Africa also cover a wide social terrain: religion, kinship, status, age, racial diversity, and other attributes of identity can all be expressed in hairstyle. Just as important is the act of braiding, which passes on cultural values between generations, expresses bonds between friends, and establishes the role of professional practitioner.[21][14] Braiding is traditionally a social ritual in many African cultures—as is hairstyling in general—and is often performed communally, as White and White explain:

In African cultures, the grooming and styling of hair have long been important social rituals. Elaborate hair designs, reflecting tribal affiliation, status, sex, age, occupation, and the like, were common, and the cutting, shaving, wrapping, and braiding of hair were centuries-old arts. In part, it was the texture of African hair that allowed these cultural practices to develop; as the historian John Thornton has observed, "the tightly spiraled hair of Africans makes it possible to design and shape it in many ways impossible for the straighter hair of Europeans."[14]

Europe

[edit]
Reconstruction of Venus of Brassempouy by Libor Balák. Czech Academy of Sciences. Although this may be inaccurate due to Europeans having darker skin 23-29,000 years ago[28]

There have been a number of examples of European art and sculpture described as similar to modern cornrows,[29] such as plaits, the melon coiffure and sini crenes.[30][31][32]

Melon coiffure on Small Herculaneum woman, ca. 2nd century, National Archaeological Museum of Athens.

The oldest of these depictions are the statues known as the Venus of Brassempouy[29][33] and the Venus of Willendorf,[31][34][35] which date between 23,000 and 29,000 years ago[36] and were found in modern day France and Austria. Whether these statues feature cornrows, another type of braids, headdresses, or some other styling has been a matter of vigorous debate — most historians rule out cornrows, however.[29][31][37] The Venus of Brassempouy is often said to wear a wig or a patterned hood,[37] while the Venus of Willendorf is said to be wearing plaited hair or a fibrous cap.[31]

Since the early 5th century B.C., Ancient Greek and Roman art shows men and women with a characteristic melon coiffure, especially in the "Oriental Aphrodite" tradition, which may be confused with cornrows.[38][39][32] The traditional hairstyle of Roman Vestal Virgins, the sini crenes, also incorporates two braids that resemble cornrows.[40][41][30]

Americas

[edit]

The first recorded use of the word "cornrow" was in America in 1769, referring to the corn fields of the Americas. The earliest recorded use of the term "cornrows" to refer a hairstyle was in 1902.[a][1] The name "canerows" may be more common in parts of the Caribbean due to the historic role of sugar plantations in the region.[6]

As in Africa, grooming was a social activity for Black people on the American plantations; the enslaved Africans were reported helping each other style their hair into a wide variety of appearances. On his visit to a plantation in Natchez, Mississippi, New Englander Joseph lngraham wrote, "No scene can be livelier or more interesting to a Northerner, than that which the negro quarters of a well regulated plantation present, on a Sabbath morning, just before church hour."[42] Hairstyles were so characteristic of a person, even when their appearance and behaviour was otherwise heavily regulated, that they were often used to identify runaways, and enslaved Africans sometimes had their hair shaved as a form of punishment. Generally, however, slaveholders in the British colonies gave their Black slaves a degree of latitude in how they wore their hair.[14] Thus, wearing traditional hairstyles offered a way to assert their bodily autonomy when they otherwise had none.[43]

Enslaved Black people may have chosen to wear cornrows to keep their hair neat and flat to their scalp while working; the other styles they developed alongside cornrows blended African, European and Native American trends and traditions.[44] African-American, Afro-Latino and Caribbean folklore also relates multiple stories of cornrows being used to communicate or provide maps for slaves across the "New World".[8][45] Today, such styles retain their link with Black self-expression and creativity, and may also serve as a form of political expression.[9][46][47]

Cornrows gained in popularity in the United States in the 1960s and 1970s, and again during the 1990s and 2000s. In the 2000s, some athletes wore cornrows, including NBA basketball players Allen Iverson, Rasheed Wallace, and Latrell Sprewell.[48] Some female mixed martial artists have chosen to wear cornrows for their fights as it prevents their hair from obscuring their vision as they move.[49][50][51]

Attitudes to cornrows

[edit]
A Nuba woman wearing cornrows in a traditional styling

Colonial attitudes and practices towards Black hairstyles reinforced racism, exclusion and inequality.[52] For example, during the 18th century, slaves would sometimes have their hair shaved as a lesser form of punishment.[14] Eurocentric beauty standards, which often denigrate Black hairstyles, can lead to internalized racism, colorism, and marginalization, which negatively affect Black people—and Black women in particular.[47][53][54] Related valuations of hair texture—which portray straighter hair as "good hair" and curlier hair as "bad hair"—are emphasized through the media, advertising, and popular culture.[53][55] These attitudes to hair can devalue African heritage and lead to discrimination.[53][56] The unique type of discrimination that arises from prejudice towards Black women's hair is called natural hair discrimination.[57][58][59] Despite these challenges, cornrows have gained popularity among Black people as a way to express their Blackness, creativity and individuality.[52][53][60]

Cornrows, alongside dreadlocks, have been the subject of several disputes in U.S. workplaces, as well as universities and schools. Some employers and educational institutions[60] have considered cornrows unsuitable or "unprofessional", and have banned them.[48] Employees and civil rights groups have countered that such attitudes evidence cultural bias or racism, and some disputes have resulted in litigation.[52][61] In 1981, Renee Rogers sued American Airlines for their policy which banned cornrows and other braided hairstyles. Other cases, such as Mitchell vs Marriott Hotel and Pitts vs. Wild Adventures, soon followed.[62] Since other traditional Black hairstyles are also often banned, Black women may be forced to straighten their hair or emulate European hairstyles at significant additional cost.[56] The intersection of racialized and gendered discrimination against Black women is often called misogynoir.[63] In California, the CROWN Act was passed in 2019 to prohibit discrimination based on hair style and hair texture.[64]

In 2011, the High Court of the United Kingdom, in a decision reported as a test case, ruled against a school's decision to refuse entry to a student with cornrows. The school claimed this was part of its policy mandating "short back and sides" haircuts, and banning styles that might be worn as indicators of gang membership. However, the court ruled that the student was expressing a tradition and that such policies, while possibly justifiable in certain cases (e.g. skinhead gangs), had to accommodate reasonable racial diversities and cultural practices.[65]

In some African nations, regularly changing hairstyles can be seen as a sign of social status for a woman, while advertising continues to promote straighter hairstyles as fashionable. Braids provide a way for women to maintain their hair, and are sometimes used with Chinese or Indian wigs to rotate hairstyles.[55]

[edit]
  • Styled cornrows
    Styled cornrows
  • Cornrows
    Cornrows
  • Artistic braiding
    Artistic braiding

See also

[edit]

Notes

[edit]

References

[edit]
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Cornrows

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia

Cornrows are a traditional hairstyle characterized by rows of tightly braided hair secured close to the scalp, originating in ancient Africa where they served practical purposes such as protecting hair from environmental damage and facilitating labor-intensive activities.
Archaeological evidence, including rock art depictions from the Tassili n'Ajjer region in North Africa dating to approximately 3000 B.C., illustrates early instances of this braiding technique, which conveyed social information like tribal affiliation and status within communities.
In the African diaspora, particularly during the transatlantic slave trade, cornrows maintained cultural continuity and identity amid oppression, with patterns sometimes encoding navigational aids for escape, as evidenced by artifacts and oral histories preserved in sites like Elmina Castle.
Today, cornrows remain a versatile style adopted globally for their durability and aesthetic appeal, influencing fashion while sparking debates over cultural appropriation due to their deep roots in African heritage.

Definition and Techniques

Core Characteristics

Cornrows consist of tight braids affixed directly to the scalp, with hair parted into straight or intricate rows before weaving. This hairstyle features parallel or patterned rows formed by dividing the hair into sections and braiding each tightly against the scalp, often suited to tightly curled hair textures. The braids are typically created using a three-strand method, where strands are crossed under rather than over to keep the plait flat and close to the head. The core technique emphasizes precision in parting and tension to secure the braids, allowing them to maintain structure for extended periods, often up to four weeks with proper care. Cornrows differ from loose or inverted braids by their scalp-adherent positioning, which minimizes protrusion and facilitates protective styling without additional hair extensions in basic forms. This method originated as a practical approach for managing dense, coiled hair, enabling hygiene and reduced manipulation while preserving length.

Braiding Methods and Variations

Cornrows are formed by parting the into sections parallel to the and each section using a three-strand underhand technique, where the outer strands are crossed under the central strand while continuously incorporating small amounts of unbraided from the adjacent to the . This method ensures the braids lie flat against the head, creating raised rows that resemble the texture of cornfields, hence the name. Proper tension is maintained throughout to prevent loosening, typically starting with dampened and applying a holding product like or edge control for smoothness and longevity. Variations in braiding methods include the feed-in technique, which begins with a small section of natural and gradually adds synthetic extensions or additional for increased volume and length, resulting in a more seamless integration compared to traditional uniform braiding. Stitch braids represent another adaptation, employing a sewing-like motion to weave in a way that produces a textured, stitched appearance along the rows, often used for decorative effects. Parting patterns further diversify the style, such as straight-back rows for , zigzag or curved lines for visual , and intricate geometric designs achieved by varying the angle and direction of parts during sectioning. Additional modifications involve braid thickness—ranging from thin, cornrows that require finer sections for to thick, chunky variants using larger partitions—and the incorporation of accessories like beads or cuffs at the ends for aesthetic enhancement. These techniques can be combined, as in cornrows serving as a base for extensions like or twists, allowing for hybrid styles that extend beyond the scalp. The choice of method depends on texture, , and desired durability, with tighter braids generally lasting 4-6 weeks before requiring retouching.

Historical Development

Ancient African Origins

Cornrows, characterized by tightly braided hair sections woven close to the scalp in parallel rows, trace their earliest documented origins to ancient African rock art in the region. Depictions of figures with hairstyles resembling cornrows appear in cave paintings at in present-day , dating to approximately 6000 BCE during the period. These artworks, studied by ethnologists such as Henri Lhote in the mid-20th century, illustrate human figures with linear, scalp-adjacent braids, suggesting the technique's use among prehistoric Saharan populations for practical purposes like heat management and protection in arid environments. Further evidence emerges from ancient Egyptian artifacts and mummified remains, where braided hairstyles akin to cornrows are evident from around 3500 BCE. Hieroglyphs, statues, and reliefs from the Nile Valley depict individuals with plaited hair in rows, often incorporating natural hair or extensions for elaboration. examinations, including those from onward, reveal preserved braids and plaits indicating routine scalp-close weaving techniques, as confirmed by studies on hair residues showing deliberate patterning for social or significance. A notable example is a female from (circa 1350 BCE), featuring over 70 hair extensions integrated into a complex braided arrangement, underscoring the sophistication of such styles among elite classes. These ancient African practices likely arose from utilitarian needs in diverse climates, where cornrows facilitated scalp ventilation, reduced tangling during labor, and served hygienic functions by minimizing lice infestation—necessities in pre-modern societies lacking modern grooming tools. While broader braided traditions appear globally, the rowed, tight configuration specific to cornrows aligns most consistently with African archaeological records predating other regional variants by millennia. Claims of earlier non-African origins, such as European figurines, depict looser plaits rather than the structured rows defining cornrows, distinguishing African precedence.

Role in Slavery and African Diaspora

Enslaved Africans transported during the transatlantic slave , spanning the 16th to 19th centuries, carried forward longstanding hair braiding traditions from West and Central African societies, where such styles served practical, social, and ritual purposes. These techniques persisted in the despite efforts by enslavers to suppress African cultural practices, including through as or to strip identity. Braiding became a subtle form of resistance, enabling the retention of communal knowledge and heritage among diaspora communities in regions like the South, the , and . Cornrows proved functionally advantageous for field laborers, securing hair tightly against the to withstand intense physical work, , and humidity without requiring frequent maintenance under resource scarcity. Enslaved women, often responsible for communal grooming sessions, used these styles to manage coarse, tightly coiled types that resisted European combs and straightening methods imposed by enslavers. The hairstyle's resemblance to planted corn rows in American fields gave rise to the English term "cornrows" by the , reflecting its adaptation to agrarian contexts. In addition to utility, cornrows facilitated the covert preservation of agricultural expertise; West African women, particularly from rice-cultivating regions like the and , braided uncooked grains and seeds into their hair during the to safeguard them from confiscation. Upon arrival in destinations such as and , these seeds contributed to establishing rice plantations, influencing crops like the African-derived "" variety central to the by the . This act embedded African agronomic knowledge into agriculture, underscoring braiding's role in economic and cultural continuity. While folklore attributes cornrows to encoding escape routes or messages—such as curved patterns denoting paths to , as recounted in Colombian traditions linked to figures like in the early 17th century—primary historical evidence for widespread use in North American contexts like the remains anecdotal and unverified by contemporary records. Accounts from sites like in suggest symbolic or communicative roles in pre-enslavement rituals, but claims of systematic mapping in the rely more on oral histories than archival documentation, warranting caution against unsubstantiated romanticization. In diaspora settings, cornrows ultimately symbolized resilience, fostering intergenerational bonds through labor-intensive braiding rituals that reinforced community amid enforced dispersal.

Global Spread and Non-African Adoptions

Cornrows disseminated beyond primarily through the transatlantic slave trade, beginning in the , as enslaved individuals from West and Central African regions carried the practice to the . There, the style facilitated labor in fields by securing hair away from the face and tools, while also serving hygienic purposes in harsh conditions; some accounts, drawn from oral histories, suggest braided patterns encoded rice seeds, maps, or escape routes for the , though archaeological verification remains limited. In the , cornrows reasserted prominence within communities amid cultural revival movements, such as the era of the and 1970s, where they symbolized resistance to assimilation and ethnic heritage. Global visibility expanded via hip-hop culture and athletes like NBA player in the 1990s, influencing urban fashion worldwide, though adoption remained tied to diaspora influences rather than independent origins elsewhere. Non-African adoptions emerged prominently in Western pop culture from the late onward, detached from traditional contexts. Actress Bo Derek's beaded cornrows in the 1979 film 10, styled by African American braiders over 10 hours using glue for durability, sparked a trend among white women in the United States and , framing the as exotic beachwear accessory rather than cultural staple. This led to broader integration into high fashion, as seen on European catwalks by the , where designers incorporated cornrows into collections for diverse models, often prioritizing aesthetic novelty over historical significance. Claims of pre-modern cornrows in non-African societies, such as ancient or pre-Columbian , lack robust scholarly evidence; while general braiding appears in artifacts like the 25,000-year-old figurine from , tight scalp-row techniques akin to cornrows align with African archaeological records from 3000 BCE cave art, not independently verified elsewhere. Modern non-African wearers, including celebrities like in runway adaptations, reflect diffusion through media globalization, with over 40% of U.S. braided searches post-2010 involving hybrid styles blending cornrows with extensions, per beauty industry data.

Functional and Practical Aspects

Protective and Hygienic Benefits

Cornrows serve as a low-manipulation protective hairstyle, reducing the frequency of combing, brushing, and detangling that contribute to hair fiber abrasion and breakage in textured hair types. By securing strands tightly against the scalp in interwoven rows, the style minimizes exposure to friction from environmental factors like wind and clothing, which can otherwise cause split ends and shedding. This containment also limits daily handling, enabling length retention through decreased mechanical stress, with proponents noting that such styles support healthier growth phases when maintained for 4-6 weeks without excessive tension. The braided structure further protects hair cuticles from by trapping natural sebum along the lengths, potentially mitigating dryness-induced fragility in low-porosity or coily hair. However, these benefits accrue primarily when installation avoids over-tightening, as empirical observations link proper application to sustained follicle viability without compensatory damage. Hygienically, cornrows simplify maintenance by allowing direct application of cleansing agents to exposed and parts, bypassing the need for full-strand immersion and reducing residue buildup in unbraided sections. The style's containment of reduces opportunistic dirt accumulation within loose coils, facilitating easier rinsing and promoting consistent during active lifestyles.

Potential Health Risks and Criticisms

Tight braiding in cornrows can exert chronic mechanical stress on hair follicles, leading to , a form of characterized by thinning or bald patches primarily along the hairline, temples, and occipital . This condition arises from prolonged tension that disrupts the follicular growth cycle, potentially causing inflammation and scarring if repeated over time, with studies estimating it affects up to one-third of women of African descent who regularly employ tight braiding styles. Early signs include follicular pustules, pain, and breakage, progressing to irreversible cicatricial alopecia if the tension persists beyond 6-12 weeks without relief. Beyond traction, cornrows installed with excessive tightness or synthetic extensions can trap moisture, sebum, and debris against the , fostering bacterial or fungal infections such as or . Dermatological analyses highlight that synthetic braiding hair often contains volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and carcinogens like , which may off-gas during application or heating, exacerbating or long-term exposure risks when styles are worn for extended periods. Additionally, the weight of added extensions amplifies pull on fragile edges, correlating with higher incidences of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA), an irreversible scarring alopecia linked to cumulative traction from braids and weaves. Critics of cornrows as "protective" styles argue that the term misrepresents their net impact, as shows frequent use correlates with elevated rather than preservation, particularly when combined with chemical relaxers or styling. Dermatologists emphasize that while short-term application (under 4-6 weeks) with loose tension minimizes risks, habitual reliance ignores causal pathways to follicle , urging alternatives like twist-outs or looser plaits to avoid iatrogenic .

Cultural Significance

Symbolism in African and Diaspora Contexts

In various pre-colonial African societies, cornrow patterns functioned as a form of non-verbal communication, encoding details about an individual's , age, marital status, social rank, , and religious affiliations. For instance, among certain West African groups, the complexity and arrangement of cornrows distinguished warriors or leaders from commoners, serving as markers of stature within the community. These hairstyles reflected practical and cultural necessities, where intricate designs required time and skill, thereby signaling resources and status without reliance on material adornments. During the transatlantic slave trade, cornrows took on additional symbolic roles in contexts, particularly as tools for resistance and survival. Enslaved individuals in regions like encoded navigational maps and escape routes into braid patterns, using the hairstyles to covertly share strategies for fleeing plantations, as evidenced by artifacts and oral histories from sites such as . In the , these practices persisted as acts of cultural preservation amid , with cornrows symbolizing resilience, ethnic identity, and defiance against dehumanizing grooming impositions by enslavers. In contemporary communities, cornrows continue to embody heritage and communal solidarity, often worn to honor ancestral traditions and assert cultural continuity in the face of historical erasure. This symbolism underscores a broader of as a repository of , where styles like cornrows link wearers to pre-slavery African social structures and post-enslavement narratives. However, interpretations vary across specific ethnic groups, with no universal code applying continent-wide, reflecting the diversity of African polities rather than monolithic symbolism.

Interpretations in Other Cultures

In non-African cultures, cornrows lack indigenous historical precedents and are typically interpreted through pragmatic or aesthetic lenses rather than symbolic or communal ones. Archaeological evidence and artistic depictions from ancient , , and pre-Columbian show widespread use of loose braids, twists, or knots for , status, or , but no equivalent to the tight, rowed, scalp-adherent style defining cornrows, which empirical records trace exclusively to sub-Saharan African practices dating to at least 3000 BCE. This absence underscores that non-African adoptions represent via modern , not , often prioritizing functionality like hair security during labor or athletics over cultural encoding. In contemporary Western contexts, particularly and , cornrows are commonly viewed as a versatile, low-maintenance option suited to active or professional settings, detached from ethnic-specific significations. For instance, their use by diverse athletes in sports like and track since the mid-20th century emphasizes durability and neatness, aligning with performance needs rather than identity markers. Fashion interpretations further emphasize stylistic innovation; runway presentations, such as ' 2020 Paris show featuring white models in cornrow wigs, framed the style as avant-garde texture, reflecting broader in high fashion where aesthetic experimentation supersedes origin narratives. Limited evidence suggests superficial incorporations in other regions, such as stylized approximations in East Asian media depicting nomadic or tribal figures, but these appear as creative anachronisms inspired by global pop culture rather than authentic traditions, with no verified pre-modern roots. Overall, such interpretations treat cornrows as adaptable techniques, subject to individual or commercial reinvention, highlighting causal influences like media exposure and migration over inherited depth.

Reception and Controversies

Historical Attitudes and Stigma

During the transatlantic slave trade beginning in the , captured Africans were frequently subjected to forced en route to the , an act intended as humiliation, punishment, and a means to strip while ostensibly preventing spread on ships. European accounts derogatorily described African hair textures as "woolly" or unkempt, framing them as evidence of racial inferiority and justifying . In colonial America, such attitudes manifested in policies like the late 18th-century laws in New Orleans, which required free women of color to cover their hair with scarves, suppressing elaborate natural styles including braided forms to enforce class and racial distinctions from white women. Enslaved field workers often wore head-rags for practicality, while domestic slaves adopted wigs or straightened approximations of European styles to mitigate perceptions of primitiveness. Following in the , Eurocentric beauty standards perpetuated stigma against natural Black hairstyles, including cornrows, which were associated with backwardness or unprofessionalism in urban employment and education settings. This led to widespread adoption of techniques, such as hot combs popularized by around 1905, as a strategy for social and economic assimilation amid implicit favoring straight, smooth hair. Such preferences reflected internalized hierarchies where textured hair symbolized cultural retention deemed incompatible with "civilized" progress.

Cultural Appropriation Debates

In 1979, actress appeared in the film 10 sporting cornrows, which received widespread praise at the time but later drew accusations of cultural appropriation for adopting a style associated with African heritage without acknowledgment. Similar backlash occurred in July 2015 when posted photos of herself in cornrows on , prompting criticism from actress , who argued it exemplified white adoption of black culture without genuine engagement or solidarity. Other celebrities, including in 2016 (who captioned her cornrows as "Bo Derek inspired") and earlier figures like and , faced comparable claims that their use of the style as a fashion trend commodified and diluted its cultural significance to African and diaspora communities. Proponents of the appropriation narrative, often amplified in and outlets aligned with identity-focused , contend that non-black individuals, particularly whites, wearing cornrows perpetuates a power imbalance where marginalized styles are exoticized for profit or aesthetics while black wearers historically faced stigma, such as workplace discrimination under policies like the 2019 CROWN Act precursors. They argue this selective adoption reinforces stereotypes without crediting origins tied to African resistance, as in encoded messages during . However, these claims rely heavily on subjective offense rather than quantifiable harm, with no empirical data showing economic displacement for black stylists—indeed, mainstream popularity has increased demand for specialized braiding services often provided by black-owned businesses. Critics, including basketball legend , counter that labeling cornrows as exclusively "black" ignores their functional universality and ancient precedents beyond , such as braided styles in and European depictions dating to the , predating modern racial categorizations. They assert that cultural exchange through globalization and practical utility—cornrows' utility in managing hair during labor or sports—does not constitute theft absent rights or evidence of exclusionary loss, viewing strict exclusivity as a form of cultural gatekeeping unsubstantiated by historical diffusion patterns. New York Times reader debates in highlighted this divide, with some emphasizing shared human innovation over ownership, noting that braiding techniques appear independently in diverse societies due to convergent problem-solving for hair maintenance. Such perspectives prioritize observable cross-cultural adoption, as seen in non-n contexts like Viking-era plaits, over narratives of perpetual victimhood.

Arguments Against Exclusivity Claims

artifacts from provide evidence of braided hairstyles predating recorded African depictions by tens of thousands of years. The figurine, dated to approximately 25,000–30,000 BCE and discovered in , features hair rendered in parallel rows interpreted by scholars as braids or beaded strands secured close to the scalp. Similarly, the Lady of Brassempouy ivory carving from , circa 25,000 BCE, shows intricate patterning on the head reconstructed as braided hair, though some debate whether it represents a or netting. These findings indicate that tight, rowed braiding emerged independently in Eurasian for practical hair management, challenging notions of stylistic exclusivity to later African contexts. In historical European societies, braiding persisted as a functional and ornamental practice across diverse groups. Celtic tribes during the (circa 1200–500 BCE) commonly styled long hair in braids for both men and women, often incorporating knots or pinning to secure during daily activities or warfare. Germanic and Norse peoples, including from the 8th to 11th centuries CE, similarly favored braided hairstyles as symbols of status and utility, with primary accounts confirming their use in beards and hair to prevent tangling in harsh environments. Such convergent developments underscore braiding's roots in universal human needs—protection from environmental factors, , and labor efficiency—rather than cultural origination confined to one region. Exclusivity claims often emphasize symbolic roles in African and communities, such as tribal identification or resistance during enslavement, yet overlook parallel utilitarian adoptions elsewhere. Archaeological and ethnographic parallels demonstrate that scalp-close braiding arose repeatedly worldwide, including among Asian nomadic groups for mobility. While African cornrow patterns carry unique cultural encodings, the core technique's antiquity and globality refute invention monopoly, aligning with first-principles of human innovation driven by biomechanics of and environment over ethnic specificity.

Modern Applications

Usage in Sports and Entertainment

Cornrows offer practical advantages for athletes by securing hair tightly against the , minimizing interference during high-intensity activities and reducing the risk of hair being pulled or obstructing vision. In , this hairstyle gained prominence through , who adopted cornrows during his 1996-1997 NBA rookie season, setting a trend that influenced players like , , and . Combat sports athletes, particularly female MMA fighters, favor cornrows to prevent opponents from grabbing loose strands during grappling, as evidenced by their prevalence in UFC bouts. In entertainment, cornrows serve both functional and aesthetic roles, appearing in films, music performances, and red carpet events to evoke cultural authenticity or visual appeal. The 1979 film 10 featured actress in cornrows, which, while sparking later debates, introduced the style to broader audiences through her character's beach scene. Contemporary celebrities like have worn intricate cornrows, such as swirly designs at the 2019 The Lion King premiere, blending tradition with modern flair. Actresses including and have sported cornrows at events in 2020, highlighting their versatility in professional settings. This usage extends to music videos and stage performances, where the hairstyle withstands movement while enhancing artistic expression. Cornrows entered mainstream Western fashion prominently through actress Bo Derek's portrayal in the 1979 film 10, where her beach scene featuring the style alongside beads drew widespread attention and imitation among non-Black women. This exposure led to a surge in demand for the hairstyle in salons, with stylists reporting increased requests from white clients seeking the look, though it faced backlash for overlooking its African origins. In the 1990s, cornrows gained traction within hip-hop culture, worn by artists such as Ludacris and Lil' Bow Wow, which spurred innovations like varied patterns and integrations with other braiding techniques. This period aligned with broader Black pride movements from the 1960s and 1970s that revived natural hairstyles, embedding cornrows deeper into urban fashion scenes. Contemporary celebrities including Beyoncé, Alicia Keys, and Solange have further diversified styles, incorporating artistic designs that blend tradition with modern aesthetics. On runways in the 2020s, cornrows have appeared in patterned forms, as seen in 2023 shows styled by braiders like Lacey Kamara, emphasizing cultural depth over transient trends. Commercialization has fueled a global hair braiding market valued at $529.3 million in , projected to reach $625.3 million by 2032, driven by demand for protective styles like cornrows in salons often run by African immigrants. Salons specializing in these techniques have proliferated, offering services from basic rows to elaborate patterns, though competition and import reliance on synthetic hair from introduce economic pressures.

References

  1. https://nmaahc.si.edu/explore/stories/strands-of-inspiration
  2. https://historyunboxed.com/the-ancient-origins-of-cornrow-braids/
  3. https://www.genesiscareer.edu/history-of-braids-more-than-just-a-hairstyle/
  4. https://bedssu.co.uk/post/7dr4d/black-history-month-2022-the-history-behind-cornrows
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