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Place Denfert-Rochereau
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The Place Denfert-Rochereau (French pronunciation: [plas dɑ̃fɛʁ ʁɔʃʁo]), previously known as the Place d'Enfer, is a public square located in the 14th arrondissement of Paris, France, in the Montparnasse district, at the intersection of the boulevards Raspail, Arago, and Saint-Jacques, and the avenues René Coty, Général Leclerc, and Denfert-Rochereau [fr], as well as the streets Froidevaux, Victor-Considérant and de Grancey. It is one of the largest and most important squares on the left bank of the Seine.
Key Information
The square is named after Pierre Denfert-Rochereau, the French commander who organized the defense at the siege of Belfort during the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871). It is dominated by the Lion of Belfort statue (a smaller version of the original in the town of Belfort) by Frédéric Bartholdi.
The square is the location of the Paris Catacombs museum. It is frequently the place where demonstrations and protest marches in Paris either start or end. The square is also the place depicted on the backdrop at the beginning of the third act of La Bohème by Puccini.
History
[edit]This square owes its original official recognition to letters patent dated 9 August 1760, which applied to the part of the site that was located inside the old Wall of the Farmers-General (i.e. the northeastern portion of the present Place Denfert-Rochereau). The Wall of the Farmers-General, built under the ancien régime to prevent the evasion of excise taxes, separated Paris from the suburb of Montrouge. An ordinance of the Bureau of Finances, dated 16 January 1789, recognized the southwestern portion of the square, the part outside the wall, as part of Paris. The opening in the wall itself, which permitted entry or exit from Paris, was commonly called the Barrière d’Enfer. It is mentioned in Les Misérables by Victor Hugo:
- "How did those children come there? Perhaps they had escaped from some guardhouse which stood ajar; perhaps in the vicinity, at the barrière d'Enfer, or on the esplanade de l'Observatoire, or in the neighboring carrefour, dominated by the pediment on which could be read: invenerunt parvulum pannis involutum ["they discovered the infant wrapped in swaddling clothes"], there was some mountebank's booth from which they had fled […]."
Here, astride the opening in the wall, the architect Claude Nicolas Ledoux constructed two tollhouses to be used for the collection of the octroi, a local tariff levied on products entering Paris. At the center of the present square, these two pavilions once framed the opening in the wall, and now, oddly, the entrance to the underworld of the catacombs lies next to the western one of them, the pavilion at the barrière d'Enfer ("barrier of Hell").
Former name
[edit]Traditionally called by the rather unattractive name of Place d'Enfer ('Hell Square'), the square had the name of Denfert-Rochereau ascribed to it through a sort of "municipal pun". The Franco-Prussian War had demoralized the French populace, and there was widespread damage all over northeastern France and to Paris itself. Anxious to put a positive spin on the defeat, the French authorities were looking for heroes to glorify. (At this time, for example, the village of Bitche, located near the German border on the Orne, had a Parisian square named for it because it had put up a spirited defense against the Prussians).
Denfert-Rochereau was a courageous man and an authentic hero, but whether his grandiose nickname, "The Lion of Belfort", was deserved is a matter of some debate. Nonetheless, since "Denfert" (of Denfert-Rochereau) is pronounced exactly the same as "d'Enfer" (of the Place d'Enfer), this coincidence was too perfect for the mairie (city hall) to ignore. They renamed the square the Place Denfert-Rochereau, and they could plausibly deny that they were ignoring Paris's ancient traditions in so doing. The name has remained the Place Denfert-Rochereau ever since.
Places of interest
[edit]
The main square, the Place Denfert-Rochereau, is planted with trees, mostly horse chestnuts, maples, and locusts, and there are three named green spaces within it as well: Square Abbé Migne, Square Jacques Antoine, and Square Claude Nicolas Ledoux. At the center of the square, in the midst of the traffic circulation, is a one-third-scale replica of the Lion of Belfort statue by Bartholdi, symbolizing the courage of the resistance raised by Colonel Denfert-Rochereau at Belfort. In the garden to one side is a monument by Jean Boucher commemorating Ludovic Trarieux.
The section of the main north–south boulevard running through the centre of the square is named for French Resistance leader Henri Rol-Tanguy. It is just one block in length, and connects the Avenue Denfert-Rochereau in the north to the Avenue General Leclerc in the south. The entrance to the Paris Catacombs is now located within the recently renovated building with handsome romanesque arches across its facade, on the odd-numbered side of Avenue du Colonel-Henri-Rol-Tanguy. This entrance is directly across the street from an identical even-numbered building that used to house the Directorate of Roads and Transport (Direction de la Voirie et des Déplacements), but since October 2019 is now the Musée de la Libération and Musée Jean Moulin. These two buildings, classified as historical monuments, are the pavilions of the old Barrière d'Enfer, where taxes were collected on goods entering Paris. They are built to the design of the 19th-century architect, Claude Nicolas Ledoux, whose work can be found all over the city. This part of the square has enveloped the site of the Barrière d'Enfer, as well as part of the boulevards d'Enfer and Saint-Jacques, and a part of the boulevards Montrouge and Arcueil, roads which, at one time, led to those two southern suburbs but no longer exist.
Metro station
[edit]
The Place Denfert-Rochereau is served by lines 4 and 6 of the Paris Metro, from Denfert-Rochereau station.
It is also served by the RER Line B commuter train from the old railway station of the Sceaux line, the entrance to which is to the east of the square.
Notes
[edit]References
[edit]External links
[edit]- In the neighborhood of the Place Denfert-Rochereau Archived 2011-02-17 at the Wayback Machine Illustrations of the 14th arrondissement
- Place Denfert-Rochereau The official nomenclature concerning public roads, etc. in Paris
- Le Lion de Belfort Photos from 1900
Place Denfert-Rochereau
View on GrokipediaLocation and Geography
Position in Paris
Place Denfert-Rochereau is situated in the 14th arrondissement of Paris, a southern district on the Left Bank of the Seine River.[7] Covering approximately 4 hectares, it functions as a primary crossroads in the urban layout, connecting multiple radial avenues and boulevards that facilitate north-south and east-west transit across the city.[7] The square's geographic coordinates are 48°50′02″N 2°19′35″E.[8] Positioned within the Montparnasse area of the 14th arrondissement, Place Denfert-Rochereau lies roughly 3 kilometers south of central Paris landmarks such as the Notre-Dame Cathedral, serving as a transitional hub between denser urban cores to the north and more residential southern suburbs.[9] Its location at the intersection of major routes, including extensions of historic paths aligned with Paris's encircling boulevards, underscores its role in the city's Haussmann-era infrastructure, originally tied to the 18th-century Fermiers Généraux wall.[10]Surrounding Infrastructure and Neighborhood
Place Denfert-Rochereau functions as a key intersection in Paris's 14th arrondissement, where seven major roads converge: Boulevard Raspail from the northwest, Boulevard Arago from the northeast, Boulevard Saint-Jacques from the east, Avenue Denfert-Rochereau (also known as Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy) from the north, Avenue René Coty from the northeast, Avenue du Général Leclerc from the south, and Rue de la Tombe-Issoire from the southwest.[11][12][3] This configuration positions the square as a vital crossroads on the Left Bank, facilitating heavy vehicular and pedestrian traffic.[9] The area's public transport infrastructure centers on the Denfert-Rochereau station complex, which includes Paris Métro lines 4 and 6 for subway service and RER line B for regional express rail, with the latter utilizing the historic Sceaux line terminus building constructed in the 19th century.[13] Bus lines such as 38 and 68 also connect to the square, enhancing accessibility to central Paris and suburbs.[13] Architectural remnants include two pavilions designed by Claude-Nicolas Ledoux, underscoring the site's neoclassical heritage amid modern urban flow.[14] The surrounding neighborhood in the Montparnasse sector blends residential Haussmannian apartments with commercial vitality, particularly along the nearby pedestrianized Rue Daguerre, a market street featuring independent shops, bakeries, and cafés that foster a lively yet unpretentious atmosphere.[15][16] The broader 14th arrondissement maintains a village-like character, quieter than tourist-heavy districts, with green spaces like adjacent parks providing respite and supporting local pedestrian activity over central boulevards.[17][18] As of 2025, municipal renovations have introduced planting and partial pedestrianization, aiming to expand green promenades and reduce car dominance around the square's core, with full completion targeted for 2026.[19]
Historical Background
Origins as Place d'Enfer
The Place d'Enfer emerged in the late 18th century at the intersection of the Boulevard du Midi (now Boulevard Saint-Jacques and Boulevard du Montparnasse) and the Rue d'Enfer, serving as a southern gateway to Paris via the mur des fermiers généraux, a tax wall encircling the city from 1784 to 1791.[20] The name derived directly from the adjacent Rue d'Enfer, a medieval thoroughfare whose designation likely originated from the Latin infernum, signifying a "lower place" rather than a theological hell, possibly referencing the area's topography or proximity to ancient limestone quarries prone to subsidence.[21] Central to the square's formation were the Barrière d'Enfer tollhouses, constructed between 1785 and 1789 under the direction of architect Claude-Nicolas Ledoux as paired neoclassical rotundas to collect duties on incoming goods such as wine and coal; one rotunda survives today as a testament to Ledoux's innovative design integrating function with monumental aesthetics.[20] These structures marked the endpoint of the Rue d'Enfer after its junction with Rue de Montrouge, reinforcing the site's identity as a liminal zone evoking descent or peril.[21] The hellish connotation intensified following a catastrophic sinkhole on December 17, 1774, in the Rue d'Enfer, where unstable quarry voids caused the ground to collapse over 25 meters deep, engulfing multiple houses, vehicles, and residents, an event that exposed the hazards of Paris's subterranean limestone extractions and spurred municipal inspections leading to quarry consolidation efforts.[22] This incident, occurring just prior to the barrier's construction, amplified the area's ominous reputation, though the name predated it by centuries and was not caused by the later ossuary use of nearby tunnels, which began in 1786 for relocating cemetery remains.[21] As a bustling entry point for southern traffic, Place d'Enfer functioned practically as a customs checkpoint while symbolically embodying the risks of the urban periphery, with folklore later attributing ghostly or infernal associations to its underbelly.[22]Renaming and Post-Franco-Prussian War Commemoration
The square, previously known as Place d'Enfer—derived from the adjacent Rue d'Enfer, evoking "Gate of Hell" due to its historical association with ominous terrain or early toll barriers—was renamed Place Denfert-Rochereau by a decree dated August 16, 1879.[11][3] This change occurred shortly after the death of Colonel Pierre Philippe Denfert-Rochereau on May 11, 1878, in Versailles, at age 55.[23][24] The renaming directly commemorated Denfert-Rochereau's leadership in the defense of Belfort during the Franco-Prussian War, where from November 3, 1870, to February 18, 1871, he commanded approximately 17,000 French troops against a Prussian force exceeding 40,000, inflicting disproportionate casualties and preventing full capitulation despite the armistice that ceded much of Alsace-Lorraine.[25][26] Belfort's retention by France under the Treaty of Frankfurt (May 10, 1871)—a rare postwar concession negotiated by Adolphe Thiers—elevated Denfert-Rochereau to national hero status, symbolizing resilience amid France's defeat and the loss of 1.5 million square kilometers of territory.[27] The phonetic resemblance between "d'Enfer" and "Denfert" enabled a seamless rebranding, preserving local familiarity while embedding military tribute into urban nomenclature during the early Third Republic's efforts to rally national identity through such honors.[28][29] This act exemplified postwar commemorations that prioritized figures of defiance, contrasting with broader French mourning over the war's 140,000 military deaths and the Paris Commune's upheaval.[25]The Namesake: Pierre Philippe Denfert-Rochereau
Military Achievements in the Siege of Belfort
Pierre Philippe Denfert-Rochereau, a graduate of the École Polytechnique with expertise in military engineering, assumed command of Belfort's defenses in late October 1870 as Prussian forces advanced during the Franco-Prussian War.[30] Leveraging the city's Vauban-era citadel and surrounding terrain, he rapidly fortified key positions, including earthworks and redoubts, to counter the numerical superiority of the besieging Prussian XIV Corps under General August von Werder.[31] The siege commenced on November 3, 1870, with Prussian artillery barrages exceeding 5,000 shells per day from approximately 200 heavy guns, yet Denfert-Rochereau's preparations enabled the garrison—comprising around 3,500 regular soldiers and over 14,000 mobilized franc-tireurs and local volunteers—to repel initial assaults and conduct sorties that disrupted enemy lines.[32] Over the 103-day encirclement, Denfert-Rochereau's strategy emphasized active defense, including tunneling operations and counter-battery fire, which inflicted disproportionate losses on the attackers despite the French facing supply shortages and harsh winter conditions.[33] Prussian forces, numbering about 40,000, encircled Belfort but failed to breach the core defenses, partly due to Denfert-Rochereau's refusal to commit to passive fortification alone; he organized relief attempts and maintained communication with French authorities via couriers.[32] By January 1871, following the French armistice on January 26, he rejected Prussian demands for immediate surrender, famously declaring intent to "bury them in their trenches," thereby preserving Belfort's operational integrity as a symbol of resistance.[34] This holdout extended until February 18, 1871, when capitulation orders arrived from Paris, resulting in French military casualties of approximately 5,000 and 340 civilian deaths, while enabling negotiators to retain the Belfort enclave in the Treaty of Frankfurt despite broader territorial concessions.[35] Denfert-Rochereau's achievements culminated in Belfort's status as one of the few French successes amid national defeat, earning him the moniker "Lion of Belfort" for his tactical acumen and unyielding resolve, which boosted national morale and influenced subsequent military doctrine on fortress warfare.[33] His engineering background, honed in prior campaigns like the Crimean War, proved decisive in adapting 19th-century fortifications to modern artillery threats, demonstrating that determined leadership could mitigate material disadvantages.[30]Political Career and Broader Legacy
Following his military service, Denfert-Rochereau entered politics as a republican, leveraging his national heroism from the Siege of Belfort to secure electoral support. He was first elected as a representative to the National Assembly in February 1871 for the Haut-Rhin department but resigned in March due to the territory's annexation by Germany after the Franco-Prussian War. Re-elected in July 1871 as a deputy for the Charente-Inférieure department (among others), he aligned with the Union républicaine and supported the policies of Léon Gambetta, a leading moderate republican figure advocating for republican consolidation against monarchist threats.[36][37][38] In the National Assembly, Denfert-Rochereau advocated liberal positions, reflecting his Protestant background and early sympathy for socialist-leaning candidates like Ledru-Rollin in the 1848 presidential election. He failed to secure a seat as a life senator in December 1875 but was elected deputy for Paris's 6th arrondissement on February 20, 1876, as a radical republican, defeating conservative and intransigent opponents with 54.31% of the vote; he was re-elected in 1877 amid the crisis of May 16, 1877, which pitted republicans against President MacMahon's conservative maneuvers. Placed on half-pay by the army due to his outspoken republican views, he focused on parliamentary defense of liberal reforms until his death.[39][26] Denfert-Rochereau's broader legacy extends his military renown into republican symbolism and liberal thought, embodying resistance to foreign annexation and domestic reactionism; his Belfort defense preserved a sliver of disputed territory for France under the 1871 Treaty of Frankfurt, influencing national identity amid territorial losses. As a devout yet liberal Protestant, he opposed conservative evangelical doctrines in the Reformed Church's 1872 General Synod, promoting theological openness that aligned with his political moderation. His early death on May 11, 1878, at age 55, cemented his image as an uncompromised patriot, honored posthumously through namings like Place Denfert-Rochereau in Paris (1879), though his parliamentary tenure yielded no major legislative landmarks beyond bolstering Gambetta's faction against royalist resurgence.[39][36][37]Monuments and Architectural Features
The Lion de Belfort Statue
The Lion de Belfort is a monumental sculpture by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, installed in Place Denfert-Rochereau in 1880.[4] It serves as a one-third-scale replica of the larger Lion of Belfort monument in the city of Belfort, standing approximately 4 meters high and 7 meters long.[40] [29] Crafted from copper, the statue depicts a roaring lion emerging from fractured rock, symbolizing unyielding French resistance during the Franco-Prussian War.[41] Bartholdi, the sculptor also responsible for the Statue of Liberty, created the work to honor Colonel Pierre Philippe Denfert-Rochereau's defense of Belfort against Prussian forces from November 1870 to February 1871, a 103-day siege that preserved the citadel amid broader French territorial losses.[3] [42] The lion embodies Denfert-Rochereau's strategic tenacity, as the garrison held out despite being outnumbered and outgunned, ultimately capitulating only after the armistice on honorable terms that retained Belfort for France.[4] Positioned at the southern end of the square, the statue dominates the urban landscape, reinforcing the site's commemorative role tied to the 1871 renaming of Place d'Enfer after the colonel.[3] The monument has endured as a symbol of national resilience, though patina and urban exposure have necessitated periodic conservation. In October 2024, Paris authorities announced forthcoming restoration to address weathering and maintain structural integrity.[43] Its placement near the Catacombs entrance and Denfert-Rochereau metro station underscores the plaza's layered historical and infrastructural significance.[4]Catacombs Entrance and Related Structures
The entrance to the Catacombs of Paris is located at 1 Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy on Place Denfert-Rochereau, within a neoclassical pavilion originally constructed as the Barrière d'Enfer, a toll gate of the mur des Fermiers généraux.[44] This structure, designed by architect Claude-Nicolas Ledoux in 1785, features robust masonry with geometric forms typical of his rationalist style, intended as the "Gate of Hell" due to its proximity to former quarries and the square's earlier name, Place d'Enfer.[44] Adaptations for the ossuary began in the late 18th century amid efforts to relocate remains from overflowing cemeteries, with initial bone transfers starting in 1785.[45] The pavilion served as an access point following urban renovations under Louis-Philippe in the 1840s and Haussmann's works from 1859 to 1860, culminating in public opening on September 24, 1874, after further enhancements around the square.[45] Visitors descend 131 steps from this entrance to reach the underground galleries, 20 meters below street level, where bones from approximately six million individuals are arranged in ossuaries.[46] Related structures include adjacent inspection facilities for the quarries, managed by the Inspection Générale des Carrières since 1777, which reinforced the site's stability to prevent collapses threatening surface buildings.[45] A modern renovation in 2017 by YOONSEUXarchitectes added a 250 m² extension with a light-green glass entrance and ticketing area, improving accessibility while preserving the historic facade.[47] The pavilion's romanesque arches and overall layout reflect Ledoux's influence, integrating seamlessly with the square's commemorative elements despite its macabre function.[44]Transportation and Accessibility
Metro and RER Integration
The Denfert-Rochereau station complex serves as a major interchange hub in southern Paris, connecting Paris Métro lines 4 and 6 with RER line B, enabling seamless transfers for commuters traveling between central Paris, the 14th arrondissement, and southern suburbs such as Robinson.[48] The integration facilitates efficient multimodal travel, with underground passages linking the Métro platforms to the RER facilities, supporting daily passenger flows from suburban rail to urban rapid transit.[49] The RER component traces its origins to 1846, when the station opened on June 7 as Gare d'Enfer, the northern terminus of the Ligne de Sceaux, designed by architect Alexis Dulong with a pioneering circular train shed to navigate a sharp curve in the tracks.[49][50] This structure, the oldest surviving railway station in Paris, was adapted in 1977 to join the RER B network, extending the line northward from its previous suburban endpoint to integrate with the broader express regional system.[49][51] Métro integration began with the opening of line 6 platforms on April 24, 1906, followed by line 4 on October 30, 1909, both constructed as underground stations adjacent to the surface-level RER facilities.[52] The combined setup positions Denfert-Rochereau as a critical node on RER B's southern branch, handling transfers for routes that diverge toward Robinson while providing Métro access to northern destinations like Porte de Clignancourt on line 4 and Charles de Gaulle–Étoile on line 6.[48] Ongoing maintenance and modernization efforts by RATP ensure the hub's operational reliability amid high suburban commuter traffic.[53]Road and Bus Connections
Place Denfert-Rochereau serves as a major road junction in Paris's 14th arrondissement, where seven streets converge, forming a complex intersection that handles significant vehicular traffic. The primary north-south axis runs along Avenue Denfert-Rochereau northward toward the Port-Royal area and continues southward as Avenue du Général Leclerc, providing direct access to southern suburbs and connections toward Orly Airport.[12] Additional radiating routes include Boulevard Saint-Jacques to the west and Boulevard Raspail to the east, integrating the square into the broader Parisian road network for both local and regional travel.[9] Public bus services operated by RATP connect the square to multiple districts, with the Denfert-Rochereau stop accommodating daytime lines 38 (linking to Porte d'Orléans and Montparnasse), 59 (to Trocadéro), 64 (to Porte des Lilas), 68 (to Châtillon-Montrouge), 88 (to Porte de Clichy via Champs-Élysées), and 216 (from Rungis market).[54] Nighttime Noctilien lines N14 (to La Défense), N21 (to Massy-Palaiseau), and N122 (to Juvisy) ensure 24-hour accessibility, with services running until early morning hours such as the N123 departing nearby around 3:49 AM.[54][55] These routes facilitate efficient transfers, though the intersection's density can lead to delays during peak hours.[16]Public Role and Modern Developments
Site of Protests and Civic Gatherings
Place Denfert-Rochereau's expansive layout, central position in southern Paris, and connectivity via Metro lines 4 and 6 as well as RER B have made it a recurrent assembly point for demonstrations since at least the mid-20th century.[15][56] The square's visibility, bolstered by the prominent Lion de Belfort statue, facilitates large crowds, with routes often extending along boulevards like Raspail or Saint-Jacques toward key destinations such as government buildings or northern landmarks.[57][58] In March 1973, authorities maintained a ban on a gathering organized by committees opposing the Debré law on higher education, highlighting early regulatory tensions over the site.[59] Four decades later, on April 21, 2013, tens of thousands—estimates ranging from 45,000 to 270,000—convened there to protest same-sex marriage legislation before proceeding to Les Invalides.[58] The Yellow Vest movement utilized the square on March 23, 2019, as a peaceful starting hub for a northward march to Sacré-Cœur amid broader clashes elsewhere in the city.[57][60] International causes have drawn crowds repeatedly, including Iranian opposition rallies: one on February 12, 2023, marking the 150th day of domestic anti-regime protests, and another on February 8, 2025, demanding an end to executions and oppression.[61][62] Domestic issues persisted into the 2020s, with a November 3, 2024, mobilization of thousands in red attire protesting cost-of-living pressures, assembling beneath the Lion statue en route to the Overseas Ministry.[63] Earlier that year, on September 29, demonstrators gathered to honor Philippine following her death, carrying flowers and banners accusing state negligence.[64] Far-right and nationalist groups have also staged events, such as a May 16 gathering by the May 9 Committee alongside L'Œuvre française and National Front, resulting in seven arrests. In May 2023, a planned "French Pride March" by ex-military affiliates was initially banned by police before judicial suspension of the prohibition.[65][66] These instances underscore the square's role across ideological spectra, though prefectural interventions often cite public order risks.[59]Recent Restoration and Urban Maintenance
In 2021, the City of Paris initiated public consultations for the redevelopment of Place Denfert-Rochereau, aiming to enhance pedestrian spaces, increase greenery, and improve urban connectivity in the 14th arrondissement.[7] Preparatory works commenced on June 10, 2025, with the main construction phase starting June 23, 2025, focusing on reorganizing traffic flows, expanding pedestrian areas by approximately 4,500 square meters, and planting 130 trees along with 30,000 shrubs and plants to create linked green squares.[67] [19] Phase 3 of the project, addressing final landscaping and infrastructure adjustments, began on September 30, 2025, and is scheduled to continue through the end of 2025, with additional site preparations and traffic impacts starting November 4, 2025.[68] [69] Concurrently, the Lion of Belfort statue by Auguste Bartholdi, a central monument, underwent restoration from September 2025 to December 2025 to address weathering and preserve its bronze structure, as part of broader heritage maintenance efforts.[70] These initiatives reflect ongoing urban maintenance priorities by the municipal government, including sustainable mobility enhancements and economic integration features like price-controlled dining options, with completion targeted for pedestrian-friendly access by late 2025.[71] Public meetings, such as the one held on December 4, 2024, have informed adjustments to minimize disruptions while prioritizing environmental and accessibility improvements.[72]References
- https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Pierre_Philippe_Denfert-Rochereau