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Gieves & Hawkes
Gieves & Hawkes
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Gieves & Hawkes (/ˈɡiːvz/)[1] is a bespoke men's tailor and menswear retailer located at 1 Savile Row in London, England. The business was founded in 1771. It was acquired in 2012 by the Hong Kong conglomerate Trinity Ltd.,[2] which was in turn purchased by Shandong Ruyi in 2017.[3] After Trinity was subject to a winding-up petition for debt in September 2021,[4] Gieves & Hawkes was acquired in November 2022 by Frasers Group, owner of Sports Direct.[5]

Key Information

Gieves & Hawkes is one of the oldest bespoke tailoring companies in the world. The business was originally based on catering to the needs of the British Army and the Royal Navy, and hence by association the British royal family. The company holds a number of royal warrants,[6] and it provides men's ready-to-wear as well as bespoke and military tailoring. The current design director is Joshua Scacheri.

History

[edit]
Hawkes customer ledger for 1837, with entries for Field Marshal The Duke of Wellington (on behalf of the 33rd Regiment of Foot)

After coming to London in 1760, Thomas Hawkes established his first shop in 1771 in Brewer Street,[7] selling to gentlemen. His main clients were commanders of the British Army, through which King George III became a customer. He expanded his retail operation by moving to No.17 (later number No.14) Piccadilly in 1793,[8] where he gained the first of many Royal Warrants in 1809.[7]

In 1835, 15 year old James Watson Gieve[9] was employed by Augustus Meredith, a Portsmouth-based tailor by appointment to the Royal Navy. In 1852, Gieve partnered with Joseph Galt, whose father John had taken over Meredith's business and in 1887, Gieve purchased the remaining shares to form Gieves & Co. He died in 1888.[7]

Hawkes & Co. at Savile Row in 1936

On 23 December 1912, Hawkes & Co. bought №1 Savile Row from the Royal Geographical Society for £38,000,[7] in part because the firm had dressed so many explorers. In 1974, Gieves Ltd acquired Hawkes & Co., and the freehold of 1 Savile Row. The company was renamed Gieves & Hawkes.[7] In 2009, Kathryn Sargent of Gieves and Hawkes became the first female head cutter in Savile Row.[10] The company also produces the uniforms for the Honourable Corps of Gentlemen at Arms. Gieves & Hawkes celebrated its 250th anniversary in 2021.

Gieves & Hawkes store in Harbour City, Hong Kong

The company was bought by Hong Kong-based property developer and garment manufacturer USL Holdings Ltd in 2002, having listed unsuccessfully as a Plc. In May 2012, Gieves & Hawkes was acquired by Trinity Limited, and the distribution of Gieves & Hawkes continues to expand with 68 stores and concessions around the UK and in Hong Kong, China, and Taiwan.[11] In June 2009, Gieves & Hawkes began a new partnership with British Formula One team Brawn GP, providing the team with their official attire, a grey, single-breasted, two-button, mohair suit, white shirt, and distinctive team-coloured tie.[12]

Three Gieves & Hawkes shirts

The Savile Row flagship store was renovated in 2011 and transformed into a menswear emporium, which includes concessions for Carréducker, a British bespoke shoemaker. In October 2011, Gieves & Hawkes sponsored the Scott-Amundsen Centenary Race conducted by six serving soldiers of the British Army, with all proceeds going to the Royal British Legion.[13]

Country/Region Australia China France Japan Taiwan United Kingdom
City AustraliaMelbourne

AustraliaSydney

ChinaBeijing

ChinaChangchun

ChinaChangsha

ChinaChengdu

ChinaGuangzhou

ChinaGuiyang

ChinaHaikou

Hong KongHong Kong

ChinaHuizhou

MacauMacau

ChinaShanghai

ChinaSuzhou

ChinaTaiyuan

ChinaWuhan

ChinaXi'an

ChinaXiamen

FranceParis JapanNagoya

JapanOsaka

JapanTokyo

TaiwanKaohsiung

TaiwanTaichung

TaiwanTaipei

TaiwanTaoyuan

TaiwanTainan

EnglandBath

EnglandBirmingham

EnglandChester

EnglandLondon Savile Row

EnglandWinchester

Collaborations

[edit]
Drawings of some of the customers of Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row, such as the Duke of Cambridge, Diana, Princess of Wales, Charlie Chaplin, and Sean Connery
  • 2010 – Sponsored Formula 1 team Mercedes GP Petronas and created a Mercedes capsule collection of personal tailoring and accessories.[14]
  • 2011 – British shoes and accessories house Harrys of London has launched a collection of exclusive footwear as part of a collaboration with bespoke tailoring house Gieves & Hawkes.[15][16]
  • Since November 2012 – Joined Pennies and allowed customers to donate to charity when paying for goods by card across its UK stores.[17]
  • November 2019 – British watch distributor Zeon launched a new collection as part of the partnership, the first edition was only available to buy at 1 Savile Row.[18]
  • November 2019 – Luxury leather goods manufacturer Ettinger launched The Ettinger Accessories Room to showcase accessories and bags at 1 Savile Row.[19]

Royal warrants

[edit]

Gieves & Hawkes have a strong history of service to the military and to the British royal family. Hawkes & Co. were granted their first Royal Warrant in 1809, during the reign of King George III.[20] Gieves & Hawkes held a warrant by appointment to King Charles III when he was Prince of Wales.[6][20][21] The company previously held warrants by appointment to Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh.[21][22]

  • Original warrant granted by Prince Leopold to Hawkes, Moseley & Co. in 1816
    Original warrant granted by Prince Leopold to Hawkes, Moseley & Co. in 1816
  • Original warrant granted by Queen Victoria to Richard Moseley of Hawkes, Moseley & Co. in 1837
    Original warrant granted by Queen Victoria to Richard Moseley of Hawkes, Moseley & Co. in 1837
  • Royal Warrant of Appointment by Queen Elizabeth II granted in 2007
    Royal Warrant of Appointment by Queen Elizabeth II granted in 2007

Timeline

[edit]
  • 1732 – Number One Savile Row constructed as town house of the Fairfax family.[20]
  • 1760 – Thomas Hawkes comes to London, and is employed as a journeyman (a runner) for Mr Moy, a velvet cap-maker on Swallow Street. Heavy drinking Moy leaves the socially aware Hawkes to cultivate his royal clientele.[23]
  • 1771 – With Moy dead, Hawkes sets up a hatter and tailor shop in Brewer Street.[7] His top client was King George III, who later ordered several thousand scarlet uniforms for the British army, and his son the Prince Regent (the future George IV).
  • 1793 – Hawkes has established his expanded shop at No.17 (later number No.14) Piccadilly,[8] described as "Helmet, Hat and Cap-maker to the King."[7]
    Advertisement for cork helmets by Hawkes & Co. at the time of the First World War.
  • 1809 – Thomas Hawkes receives his first Royal Warrant, based on his work for George III.
  • 1818 – Burlington Arcade, a glassed-over esplanade of shops adjacent to Burlington House is constructed under the patronage of Lord George Cavendish who resides at No 1 Savile Row, where Beau Brummell was a guest before his fall and exile in 1814.
  • 1822 – James Watson Gieve is born in Chulmleigh, Devon.
  • 1850 – Having handed his business over to his nephews, by 1850 Hawkes & Co is being run by H. T. White. As the personal tailor of Sir Garnet Wolseley, he develops a special form of the pith helmet known as the Wolseley pattern, which has an extended brim at the rear for better sun protection for the neck. It is still worn today by the Royal Marines as formal dress.[7]
  • 1835 – James Watson Gieve is employed by 'Old Mel' Meredith, a Portsmouth-based tailor by appointment to the Royal Navy. Meredith tailors the uniform Admiral Lord Nelson is wearing when killed in action aboard HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar.
  • 1852 – James Gieve acquires a partnership with Joseph Galt (established in 1823 and incorporating Meredith); christening the firm Galt & Gieves.[24]
  • 1871 – Ownership of №1 passed to the Royal Geographical Society, which added the Map Room and galleried Library which remain the focal point of the interiors today.[20] Henry Morton Stanley, sent to search for David Livingstone by the New York Herald newspaper in 1869, finds him in the town of Ujiji on the shores of Lake Tanganyika on 27 October 1871, clad in Hawkes & Co. dress from head to toe.[25]
  • 1873 – the body of explorer David Livingstone lies in state at 1 Savile Row, before burial at Westminster Abbey.[26]
    Dress indicator developed by Gieves Ltd. for naval officers to select the correct components of uniform
  • 1887 – James Gieve becomes sole owner of Galt & Gieves, renaming it Gieves & Co.
  • 1888 – James Gieve dies.
  • 1912 – On 23 December, №1 Savile Row is purchased from the Royal Geographical Society by Hawkes & Co. for £38,000,[7] in part because the firm has dressed so many explorers. This was at a time when the international reputation of Savile Row, the famous street and centre for fine craft tailoring was growing.[20] Another £10,000 is spent on converting the premises to suit the business. Hawkes & Co. is appointed to dress the Honourable Corps of Gentlemen at Arms, the British Monarch's nearest bodyguard.
  • 1920s – becomes the first Savile Row tailor to make and (secretly) sell ready-to-wear suits.
  • 1935 – a period uniform is made for actor Charles Laughton for his role as Captain Bligh in the film Mutiny on the Bounty. Moy had made uniforms for the original Captain Bligh.[27]
  • 1955 – Gieves is depicted in the film The Man Who Never Was when a German/Irish agent tries to verify the existence of the title character.
  • 1974 – Gieves Ltd acquires Hawkes, and the precious freehold of No 1 Savile Row. The company is renamed Gieves & Hawkes.
  • 1980s – licenses Rochester, New York based manufacturer Hickey Freeman to produce a licensed version of its clothes for distribution in North America.
  • 1987–89 – Michael Jackson wore the tailcoat made by Gieves & Hawkes during his Bad World Tour.[28]
    Tailcoat made for Michael Jackson for this Bad World Tour of 1987–89. The style is based on the 1930s civil uniform worn at court together with some military-inspired details.
  • 2002 – Following a very poor 2001–02 trading period where it lost £1 million, Gieves & Hawkes plc accepts an offer from Hong Kong's USI Holdings Limited, valuing the company at £11.5million.[29]
  • 2007 – Robert Gieve, the fifth and last generation of the family to serve Gieves & Hawkes, dies.
  • 2011 – Major refurbishment for the Savile Row flagship store, with new concessions such as bespoke shoemaking and barbershop.
  • 2012 – Sold to Trinity Ltd and continue to expand in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan.
  • 2017 – John Harrison became Creative Director.[30]
  • 2021 – Trinity Ltd subject to winding-up petition.[31]
  • 2022 – Acquired by Frasers Group.

References

[edit]
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Gieves & Hawkes

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Gieves & Hawkes is a renowned British bespoke tailoring house located at No. 1 in , specializing in luxury menswear and uniforms, with a heritage tracing back to 1771. The firm has built its reputation on crafting high-quality suits, outerwear, and ceremonial attire for the , royalty, and discerning clients worldwide, holding a Royal Warrant as Outfitters and Livery & Military Tailors to HM The King. The company's origins lie in two distinct 18th-century establishments: Hawkes, founded in 1771 by Thomas Hawkes on as a to the , and Gieves, established in 1785 as an outfitter to the Royal Navy. Hawkes expanded its military focus, supplying uniforms to figures like the Duke of Wellington and Lord Nelson, while Gieves became the official Admiralty supplier in 1785, innovating items such as the iconic naval with its double-breasted design and anchor buttons. In 1974, Gieves acquired Hawkes, merging the houses into Gieves & Hawkes and solidifying their commitment to craftsmanship, where Hawkes had already established a presence at No. 1 since the early . The first Royal Warrant was granted in 1789, and the firm has since dressed generations of monarchs, including tailoring Queen Elizabeth II's 1953 boat cloak. Throughout its over 250-year history, Gieves & Hawkes has pioneered collections in the and mail-order services as early as , while maintaining a strong military legacy by outfitting 98% of naval cadets at Dartmouth by the late and continuing to supply uniforms for ceremonies, parades, and state events today. The house has served international forces and dignitaries, blending functionality with elegance in designs like the life-saving invented during its naval era. In 2022, Gieves & Hawkes was acquired by , returning it to British ownership and ensuring the preservation of its tailoring traditions for future generations.

History

Founding and Early Development

Gieves & Hawkes originated from two distinct tailoring establishments with deep roots in British military tradition. Hawkes was founded in 1771 by Thomas Hawkes, who had arrived in around 1760 and initially worked as a for a velvet cap-maker on Swallow Street. Following the death of his employer, Mr. Moy, Hawkes established his own business on , specializing in hats, military headgear, and accoutrements for the . The firm quickly attracted aristocratic clientele, including King George III and the Prince Regent, laying the groundwork for its reputation in court and military tailoring. In parallel, Gieves began in 1785 in as a naval outfitter, focusing on uniforms for officers. James Gieve, a key figure in its early growth, joined the firm in 1805 under the employment of tailor Melchisedek "Old Mel" Meredith, where he crafted Admiral Lord Nelson's uniform for the . By 1852, Gieve had entered a with Joseph Galt, renaming the business Galt & Gieves, which solidified its role as a premier supplier to the Admiralty and naval cadets—eventually outfitting nearly all officers from the Royal Naval College at Dartmouth. Through the , both entities expanded their military legacies while innovating in bespoke craftsmanship. Hawkes earned its first Royal Warrant in 1809 under , a distinction that continued across monarchs, and during the , Thomas Hawkes famously converted a vessel into a mobile atelier to outfit British officers at . Gieves, meanwhile, pioneered practical naval garments like the classic with its design and buttons. These early developments emphasized precision, functionality, and elegance, establishing the foundations for the combined house's enduring influence in menswear.

Merger and Savile Row Establishment

In 1974, Gieves Ltd., a renowned to founded in in , acquired Hawkes & Co., a prestigious established in 1771 by Thomas Hawkes on in . This merger united two historic houses with deep roots—Gieves specializing in naval uniforms and Hawkes in army attire—creating Gieves & Hawkes as a combined entity dedicated to for elite clientele, including royalty and officers. Prior to the acquisition, Hawkes had already cemented its presence on by purchasing the freehold of No. 1 in 1913, transforming the Georgian townhouse—formerly the Royal Geographical Society's headquarters—into a hub for military and court tailoring. Gieves, meanwhile, operated from its base on Old Bond Street after relocating from in the 19th century. The 1974 deal allowed Gieves to absorb Hawkes' premises, prompting the consolidation of operations at this iconic address and marking the firm's formal establishment as a cornerstone of the Row's legacy. The merger not only preserved the distinct craftsmanship of both firms but also enhanced their joint prestige, reinforcing Savile Row's status as the epicenter of British amid evolving economic pressures on independent houses. By integrating naval and military traditions under one roof, Gieves & Hawkes solidified its role in outfitting global leaders and maintaining royal warrants dating back to the 18th century.

Ownership Transitions

In 2012, Gieves & Hawkes was acquired by Hong Kong-based Trinity Limited, a luxury menswear retailer and wholesaler, from Wing Tai Properties for an initial £32.5 million, with potential earnouts up to £60 million more based on performance. This transaction brought the brand under Asian ownership for the first time, aligning it with Trinity's global distribution network, particularly in , where the company already operated licensed stores. In November 2017, Trinity Limited itself was acquired by China's Technology Group, a major and apparel conglomerate, in a deal valued at approximately $2.2 billion (about $283 million) for a controlling 51% stake. This move expanded Ruyi's portfolio of international luxury brands, including Gieves & Hawkes alongside others like Cerruti and Kent & Curwen, as part of a broader strategy to build a global fashion empire. By 2021, faced severe financial distress amid mounting debts and the impacts of the , leading to a winding-up petition in September and the initiation of proceedings in December. The process culminated in Trinity's full in early 2022, prompting the sale of its assets, including Gieves & Hawkes, to address creditor claims. In November 2022, British retail conglomerate —owned by Mike Ashley and encompassing brands like Sports Direct and —acquired Gieves & Hawkes, including its flagship store and four other UK locations, for an undisclosed sum. This transaction returned the heritage tailor to British ownership, with Frasers committing to preserve its traditions while integrating it into its luxury division.

Products and Services

Bespoke Tailoring

Gieves & Hawkes offers as the pinnacle of its sartorial services, crafting garments entirely from scratch based on individual measurements and preferences at its No. 1 . This process emphasizes personalization, allowing clients to select from luxurious fabrics such as cashmeres, lightweight wools, linens, jerseys, and cottons, while incorporating details like linings, buttons, and styles. The service draws on the house's 250-year heritage in and civilian tailoring, ensuring precision and elegance in every piece. The bespoke journey begins with an initial consultation where a master cutter takes over 20 precise measurements and discusses the client's vision, lifestyle, and desired . A unique paper pattern is then hand-crafted for the individual, from which the chosen cloth is cut by hand; this pattern is refined and stored for future commissions, reducing subsequent orders to fewer adjustments. Construction occurs entirely in-house by skilled tailors and finishers, involving techniques like shrinking, , and silk-thread finishing to achieve a soft, three-dimensional drape without rigidity. Multiple fittings—typically three for a first-time client—follow: a forward basting for rough shape, a half-forward for refinements, and a final finishing to perfect the garment's fit and balance. Central to the craftsmanship is the house's light construction method, featuring minimal padding, soft interlinings, high armholes, and natural shoulders with a subtle pagoda sleeve for enhanced mobility and a clean line. Under Head Cutter Davide Taub since , the style blends traditional English tailoring with modern adaptability, often unlined for breathability and a natural fall, reflecting influences from the firm's military past in uniforms for figures like the Duke of Wellington. Fabrics are sourced from elite mills, with over 2,000 options available, enabling suits suited to diverse occasions from formal events to . The full bespoke process typically requires a minimum of 12 weeks for the initial order, though repeat clients benefit from archived patterns for faster delivery. Pricing starts at approximately £5,000 as of 2018, varying by fabric and complexity, underscoring the labor-intensive nature of 40 to 80 hours of handwork per suit. International trunk shows in locations like and New York extend access, maintaining the experience globally.

Ready-to-Wear and Accessories

Gieves & Hawkes offers a collection that extends the house's renowned tailoring expertise to off-the-rack garments, maintaining the precision and quality associated with its heritage. Introduced historically through Gieves' mail-order catalogue in 1910 and expanded by Hawkes & Co. in the for casual attire, the line evolved during peacetime to meet demand for civilian clothing, with "Immediate Wear" options advertised by 1939, particularly for military uniforms. Today, the collection includes suits, jackets, trousers, shirts, polos, knitwear, outerwear, and waistcoats, crafted from premium fabrics such as and cashmere to ensure a structured, quintessentially British . These pieces emphasize hand-finished details and classic fits, providing refined luxury without the wait time of services. Seasonal collections highlight the brand's storytelling approach, often drawing from and exploratory themes. The Autumn/Winter 2025 line, titled "Eyes in the Sky," reinterprets archival battle dress jackets with modern updates, inspired by the courage of WWII fighter pilots, and features items like leather aviator jackets and scarves depicting the Great Escape. Similarly, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection adopts an outward-looking perspective, incorporating global influences while preserving British craftsmanship in lightweight suits and outerwear. Complementing the clothing, Gieves & Hawkes' accessories range is designed to elevate formal and everyday attire with elegant, complementary pieces. The assortment includes ties, pocket squares, and studs, belts, small goods, hats, gloves, scarves, umbrellas, and candles, each crafted to harmonize with the brand's tailoring. Materials such as for ties and for belts underscore durability and sophistication, with patterns and colors selected to suit various occasions. A notable with Ettinger enhances the goods category, featuring collections like Bridle Hide, Sterling, Capra, and Lifestyle, including business bags and wallets that blend traditional British leatherworking with contemporary functionality. Additionally, the accessories line offers specialized items such as caps, ties, badges, buttons, and berets, tailored for completion and available for online purchase, reflecting the house's longstanding traditions.

Heritage

Royal Warrants

Gieves & Hawkes has held Royal Warrants of Appointment from the since the late , marking it as one of the oldest recipients in the tailoring industry. The company's predecessor, Gieves, received its first warrant in 1799 for services to the Royal Navy under King George III, while Hawkes earned a warrant in 1809 as a tailor to the same monarch. These early appointments established the firm's reputation for supplying high-quality uniforms and attire to royal and clients. Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, Gieves & Hawkes maintained continuous royal patronage, with warrants renewed across successive reigns. Notable examples include outfits for King George V, King George VI, and Queen Elizabeth II, such as the boat cloak she wore in 1953. The firm also served Princes William and Harry during their time at the . This unbroken lineage spans over 200 years, underscoring the company's enduring role as a royal outfitter. Prior to 2022, Gieves & Hawkes held three active British Royal Warrants: from Queen Elizabeth II, the then-Prince of Wales (now King Charles III), and the . Following the deaths of Queen Elizabeth II in 2022 and the in 2021, all warrants lapsed and required re-granting under the new reign. In May 2024, the company was among approximately 800 firms to have its warrant reinstated by King Charles III, recognizing its provision of outfitting, , and military tailoring services. As of 2025, Gieves & Hawkes holds a single Royal Warrant by appointment to His Majesty The King as Outfitters and Livery & Military Tailors, affirming its status as a preferred royal tailor.

Military Traditions

Gieves & Hawkes' military traditions trace back to its predecessor companies: Hawkes, founded in 1771 by Thomas Hawkes as a military tailor specializing in uniforms for the , and Gieves, established in 1785 by James Gieve as an outfitter to the Royal Navy. Gieves became the official supplier of uniforms to the Admiralty in 1785, establishing a longstanding naval heritage that included crafting garments for officers during pivotal conflicts such as the in 1805—where founder James Gieve's prior employer, Meredith & Sons, tailored Admiral Lord Nelson's uniform—and the trenches of . This early focus on precision tailoring for functionality and prestige solidified the firm's reputation, with innovations like the iconic Naval , featuring its double-breasted design and anchor buttons, emerging as enduring symbols of British naval identity. The merger with Hawkes & Co. in 1974 further enriched these traditions, incorporating Hawkes' army-oriented expertise dating to the late 18th century. Hawkes had been a premier supplier to the British Army, outfitting officers with bespoke uniforms and accessories that emphasized ceremonial elegance and practical durability, particularly during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Together, the combined entity extended its services to the Royal Air Force as well, providing tailored mess dress, full-dress uniforms, and accoutrements for all branches of the military. By the late 19th century, Gieves alone had equipped approximately 98% of naval cadets at the Royal Naval College, Dartmouth, many of whom continued as officers wearing the firm's garments throughout their careers—a tradition that persisted through both World Wars, where demand surged for naval, army, and air force attire. In the , Gieves & Hawkes adapted its military tailoring to wartime exigencies, introducing mail-order catalogs in 1910 for efficient uniform distribution and "Immediate Wear" options by 1939 to meet needs. The firm pioneered elements of military clothing on in the , blending craftsmanship with scalability while maintaining hand-stitched details like gold lacing and medal mounting. Post-war, these traditions evolved into comprehensive services, including collaborations with specialists like Pooley Swords for ceremonial blades, ensuring uniforms for modern parades, ceremonies, and deployments uphold over 250 years of heritage. Today, the company continues to handcraft military uniforms at No. 1 , requiring up to 100 hours and multiple fittings, for officers across the Royal Navy, , , and allied forces, preserving a legacy of excellence in British military sartorial standards.

Collaborations and Timeline

Notable Collaborations

Gieves & Hawkes has engaged in several notable collaborations that blend its heritage with innovative partnerships across fashion, accessories, and sports, often emphasizing British craftsmanship and themes. These alliances have produced limited-edition collections, accessories, and custom attire, enhancing the brand's reputation for precision tailoring in diverse contexts. In 2009, Gieves & Hawkes partnered with the British team to supply official team attire ahead of the at . The collaboration provided grey single-breasted mohair suits, white shirts, and ties featuring the team's yellow, white, and grey colors, worn by drivers and during formal occasions. Valued at approximately US$100,000, this sponsorship highlighted shared values of precision and excellence between the two British entities. A 2016 capsule collection with resortwear brand drew inspiration from explorer David Livingstone's travels, incorporating his motto "I am prepared to go anywhere, provided it be forward." The lineup included swim shorts with hand-drawn map prints, safari-printed T-shirts, bucket hats, multi-pocket utility vests, cargo trousers, safari jackets, and desert boots, blending Gieves & Hawkes' tailoring expertise with Orlebar Brown's relaxed sophistication. Available through both brands' stores, the collection celebrated adventure and forward momentum. Since 2018, Gieves & Hawkes has maintained a retail and product partnership with British leather goods maker Ettinger, both holders of Royal Warrants. In 2019, Ettinger opened a dedicated Accessories Room at Gieves & Hawkes' flagship store on No. 1 , offering an extensive range of bags and accessories from collections like Hide and Sterling, alongside a craftsmanship display and personalization events. This alliance underscores complementary commitments to luxury heritage, with plans for additional joint projects in the UK and abroad. More recently, Gieves & Hawkes collaborated with Bellerby & Co Globemakers for its Autumn/Winter 2024 and 2025 collections, themed "Onwards" and inspired by WWII fighter pilots' resilience. For AW25, they co-created a hand-painted of key mission locations from Dick Churchill and Sandy Gunn's exploits, used as linings and accessories like wool silk pocket squares and umbrellas. Earlier in AW24, the partnership featured exploration motifs honoring figures like . These items integrate historical narratives into modern menswear. In 2025, as part of the Campaign for Wool's 15th anniversary on , Gieves & Hawkes launched a limited-edition capsule with Scottish weaver Glenlyon Tweed, sourcing fabric from the Highlands. The collection comprises coats and jackets that fuse traditional with contemporary tailoring, displayed in a dedicated store window to promote wool's and versatility. This partnership bridges Scottish textile heritage with innovation.

Key Milestones and Timeline

Gieves & Hawkes originated from two pioneering British tailoring houses with deep military roots. Hawkes was founded in 1771 by Thomas Hawkes on in , initially focusing on military uniforms for the . Gieves was established in 1785 by James Gieve, quickly becoming the official supplier of uniforms to the Admiralty and the Royal Navy, a role it has maintained continuously. In 1799, Hawkes received its first Royal Warrant as tailor to the , followed by Gieves earning a similar honor in 1809 for naval services during the reign of King George III. The early 19th century saw Gieves & Hawkes innovate in naval attire, designing the iconic double-breasted with anchor buttons, which became a staple for officers and influenced global military fashion. By 1910, Gieves introduced one of the first comprehensive mail-order catalogues for , expanding access to its services beyond . In 1913, Hawkes acquired No. 1 , transforming the historic townhouse—previously occupied by the Royal Geographical Society since 1870—into a hub for high-end tailoring. The company played a pivotal role in both World Wars, ramping up production of officer uniforms; during , it equipped troops for , and in 1939, it advertised "Immediate Wear" military outfits to meet urgent demands. The 1920s marked a shift toward when Hawkes pioneered tailoring on , blending tradition with broader accessibility. Post-war, Gieves & Hawkes solidified its royal connections, tailoring Queen Elizabeth II's boat cloak in 1953 and holding continuous Royal Warrants from the Sovereign, , and since the late . The modern era began in 1974 when Gieves acquired Hawkes, forming Gieves & Hawkes and relocating the combined operations to No. 1 in 1975, cementing its status on the famed street. Ownership evolved through international acquisitions: Trinity Limited (a Hong Kong-based firm) purchased the company in 2012, followed by its sale to , a British retail conglomerate, in November 2022, returning it to ownership. In 2014, No. 1 underwent a major refurbishment, preserving its heritage while updating facilities for contemporary services. Today, the house continues to serve the across all branches, adapting traditional craftsmanship for modern needs while upholding over 250 years of legacy.
YearMilestone
1771Hawkes founded by Thomas Hawkes in London as military tailor to the British Army.
1785Gieves established by James Gieve as official supplier to the Royal Navy and Admiralty.
1799Hawkes receives first Royal Warrant for army uniforms.
1809Gieves granted Royal Warrant for naval services under King George III.
1910Gieves launches mail-order catalogue for bespoke tailoring.
1913Hawkes purchases No. 1 Savile Row.
1920sIntroduction of ready-to-wear tailoring on Savile Row.
1953Tailors Queen Elizabeth II's boat cloak.
1974Gieves acquires Hawkes, forming Gieves & Hawkes.
1975Relocates to No. 1 Savile Row.
2012Acquired by Trinity Limited (Hong Kong).
2014Refurbishment of No. 1 Savile Row.
2022Acquired by Frasers Group (UK), returning to British ownership.

References

  1. https://www.forbes.com/sites/josephdeacetis/2014/11/24/the-capitalist-touch-gieves-hawkes/
  2. https://www.royalwarrant.org/company/gieves-hawkes-ltd
  3. https://www.gievesandhawkes.com/pages/military-history
  4. https://www.gievesandhawkes.com/pages/history
  5. https://www.bbc.com/news/business-63741467
  6. https://www.savilerowbespoke.com/about-us/history/17th-18th-century/
  7. https://www.savilerowbespoke.com/about-us/history/19th-century/
  8. https://www.woolmark.com/z.archive/archive-industry/suiting/on-the-row-gieves-hawkes/
  9. https://www.savilerowbespoke.com/about-us/
  10. https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/gieves-and-hawkes-savile-row-tailor
  11. http://www.cigaraficionado.com/article/the-new-face-of-savile-row-8746
  12. https://www.thetimes.com/travel/destinations/uk-travel/england/london-travel/goodbye-savile-row-hello-shanghai-0jjgh0krxbr
  13. https://www.businessoffashion.com/news/retail/frasers-group-acquires-gieves-hawkes/
  14. https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/feature/trinity-ltd-acquires-gieves-hawkes-5852340-646927/
  15. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/9198438/Savile-Row-tailor-Gieves-and-Hawkes-sold-to-Hong-Kong-group-Trinity.html
  16. https://www.just-style.com/news/shandong-ruyi-buys-controlling-stake-in-trinity/
  17. https://www.reuters.com/article/business/hong-kong-s-trinity-says-shandong-ruyi-to-buy-control-for-285-million-idUSL3N1NG242/
  18. https://www.drapersonline.com/news/textile-group-buys-controlling-stake-in-trinity-menswear
  19. https://www.scmp.com/business/china-business/article/3201042/britains-frasers-group-buys-gieves-and-hawkes-further-dismantling-chinese-fashion-tycoon-qiu-yafus
  20. https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/shandong-ruyi-gieves-hawkes-cerutti-owner-trinity-liquidation-1235025272/
  21. https://apparelresources.com/business-news/retail/uk-based-menswear-retailer-gieves-hawkes-collapses-into-liquidation/
  22. https://www.theguardian.com/business/2022/nov/14/mike-ashleys-frasers-buy-savile-row-tailor-gieves-hawkes
  23. https://savilerow-style.com/news/gieves-hawkes-back-in-british-ownership/
  24. https://www.gievesandhawkes.com/pages/bespoke-tailoring
  25. https://therake.com/us/stories/the-cutting-edge-davide-taub-gieves-hawkes
  26. https://www.gievesandhawkes.com/collections/all
  27. https://thevou.com/blog/is-gieves-and-hawkes-luxury-brand/
  28. https://www.gievesandhawkes.com/pages/aw25-collection-page
  29. https://robbreport.com/style/menswear/gieves-hawkes-great-escape-fall-2025-collection-1237029103/
  30. https://stylebham.com/tradition-tailored-gieves-hawkes-still-rules-the-row/
  31. https://www.gievesandhawkes.com/collections/accessories
  32. https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Ettinger-opens-accessories-room-in-gieves-hawkes-more-joint-projects-coming-%2C1153852.html
  33. https://www.gievesandhawkes.com/collections/military
  34. https://www.royalwarrant.org/sites/default/files/2024-05/List%20of%20Royal%20Warrants%20May%202024_1.pdf
  35. https://www.instagram.com/gieveslondon/reel/DMqK6H9ouK2/
  36. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/business/2022/07/13/churchills-tailor-gieves-hawkes-sale/
  37. https://www.gievesandhawkes.com/pages/military-services
  38. https://www.instagram.com/p/C4dn7Ccsh8Y/
  39. https://therake.com/default/stories/gieves-hawkes-aw18-collection
  40. https://www.sportspro.com/news/brawn_gp_signs_new_partner_ahead_of_british_grand_prix/
  41. https://www.thegentlemansjournal.com/article/orlebar-brown-and-gieves-hawkes/
  42. https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/Ettinger-opens-accessories-room-in-gieves-hawkes-more-joint-projects-coming-,1153853.html
  43. https://blog.bellerbyandco.com/collaborations-globemaking/gieves-hawkes-x-bellerby-co-globemakers/
  44. https://www.a1retailmagazine.com/latest-news/savile-row-celebrates-15-years-of-the-campaign-for-wool/
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