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Elwha River
Elwha River
Elwha River
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Elwha River
U.S. Route 101 crossing the Elwha River with Mount Fairchild in the background
Elwha River watershed (Interactive map)
Native nameʔéʔɬx̣ʷaʔ (Klallam)
Location
CountryUnited States
StateWashington
CountiesClallam, Jefferson
CityPort Angeles
Physical characteristics
SourceOlympic Range
 • coordinates47°46′8″N 123°34′43″W / 47.76889°N 123.57861°W / 47.76889; -123.57861[1]
 • elevation3,655 ft (1,114 m)[2]
MouthStrait of Juan de Fuca
 • coordinates
48°9′2″N 123°33′35″W / 48.15056°N 123.55972°W / 48.15056; -123.55972[1]
 • elevation
0 ft (0 m)[2]
Length45 mi (72 km)
Basin size318 sq mi (820 km2)[3]
Discharge 
 • locationMcDonald Bridge, River mile 8.6[3]
 • average1,507 cu ft/s (42.7 m3/s)[3]
 • minimum10 cu ft/s (0.28 m3/s)
 • maximum41,600 cu ft/s (1,180 m3/s)
Basin features
Tributaries 
 • leftCat Creek, Goldie River, Indian Creek
 • rightHayes River, Lost River, Lillian River, Little River

The Elwha River is a 45-mile (72 km) river on the Olympic Peninsula in the U.S. state of Washington. From its source at Elwha snowfinger in the Olympic Mountains, it flows generally north to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Most of the river's course is within the Olympic National Park.

The Elwha is one of several rivers in the Pacific Northwest that hosts all five species of native Pacific salmon (chinook, coho, chum, sockeye, and pink salmon), plus four anadromous trout species (steelhead, coastal cutthroat trout, bull trout, and Dolly Varden char). From 1911 to 2014, dams blocked fish passage on the lower Elwha River. Before the dams, 400,000 adult salmon returned yearly to spawn in 70 miles (110 km) of river habitat. Prior to dam removal, fewer than 4,000 salmon returned each year in only 4.9 miles (7.9 km) of habitat below the lower dam. The National Park Service removed the two dams as part of the $325 million Elwha Ecosystem Restoration Project. Dam removal work began in September 2011 and was completed in August 2014.[4] The river has already carried sediment to its mouth, creating 70 acres of estuary habitat at the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

The first documented use of the name Elwha River dates to Henry Kellett's 1846 map.[5]

Course

[edit]
The Elwha River flowing by the Madison Falls Trailhead in Olympic National Park.

The Elwha River begins at the Elwha snowfinger near Mount Barnes and Mount Queets in the Olympic Range within Olympic National Park, in Jefferson County, Washington. The river flows southeast, then curves northward for the great majority of its course, with its mouth at the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Major peaks near the Elwha's source include Mount Queets, Mount Christie, Mount Meany, Mount Noyes, and Mount Seattle.

After receiving the tributaries Delabarre and Godkin creeks, the Elwha River flows northward. The Hayes River joins in Press Valley, where the Hayes River Ranger Station is located. Lost River joins near the northern end of Press Valley, after which the Elwha crosses into Clallam County, Washington.

Just after the county line, the Elwha River passes the Elkhorn Ranger Station and enters the Grand Canyon of the Elwha. As the river leaves the Grand Canyon, it is crossed by Dodger Point Bridge. Humes Ranch Cabin is located near the river along the Geyser Valley trail. After passing Krause Bottom, the river enters Rica Canyon at Goblins Gate. Prior to dam removal, the river fanned out into a delta below Rica Canyon, at the head of Lake Mills, the reservoir behind Glines Canyon Dam. Below the dam site, the Elwha is paralleled by Olympic Hot Springs Road. The river receives a tribunate from the Madison creek. The trailhead for Madison Creek Falls is also along the river. Campgrounds and the Elwha Ranger Station are located along the river before it exits Olympic National Park. Until early 2012, when Lake Aldwell was drained, the river entered this reservoir behind Elwha Dam.

Downriver from the former site of the Elwha Dam, the Elwha River flows several miles north through the Elwha Canyon and the Lower Elwha Indian Reservation, to enter the Strait of Juan de Fuca at Angeles Point, just west of the city of Port Angeles, Washington.[6]

Since 2014, the Elhwa is a free-flowing river, with no man-made dams in the watershed.

Dams

[edit]
Main article: Restoration of the Elwha River
Elwha Dam with Lake Aldwell behind. The power house can be seen in the center.

The undamming of the Elwha was, at the time, the largest dam removal project in history.[7][8] The Elwha Ecosystem Restoration project is the second largest ecosystem restoration project the National Park Service has attempted, after the Everglades. The Elwha River Ecosystem and Fisheries Restoration Act of 1992 was signed by the first President Bush after it was passed by Congress. The project was projected to cost $350 million.[9] The act authorized the Secretary of the Interior to acquire and remove the two dams on the river and restore the ecosystem and native anadromous fisheries.

The removal of the 108-foot (33 m) tall Elwha Dam and the 210-foot (64 m) tall Glines Canyon Dam began in September 2011. Two downstream water treatment facilities were completed in early 2010 to protect the water supply for the city of Port Angeles and the fish hatcheries from silt and sediment that would wash downstream once the dams were removed. In order to protect fish stocks below the dams during removal, the dams were taken out over a three-year period, pausing to ensure there would be no silt in the river while salmon spawned downstream.

The Elwha Dam was completely dismantled in March 2012. Restoration of the area around the dam followed, including tens of thousands of native plants started in local greenhouses. The removal of the Glines Canyon Dam was completed in August 2014.[4][10]

Salmon will naturally recolonize the 70 miles (110 km) of habitat in Olympic National Park. The area once under the reservoirs is being revegetated to prevent erosion and speed up ecological restoration of the area. Because almost all of the Elwha's watershed is in a national park, the river should become relatively pristine, with few of the issues of agricultural runoff and water heating that affect other salmon river habitat in the Pacific Northwest. Model projections by the Park Service show that up to 392,000 fish will fill 70 miles of habitat, theoretically matching the "pre-dam peak".[9]

By late December 2012, about 10 percent of the estimated 25,000,000 cubic yards (19,000,000 m3) of sediment that had been caught behind the river's two dams had collected at the Elwha's mouth, forming sandbars. With the Elwha Dam removed, the sediment had been pushed downstream as heavy rainfall produced faster-moving flows in the free-running river.[10] By November 2014, 30 percent of the stored sediment had been carried to the mouth of the river, creating 70 acres (28 hectares) of new estuary habitat for a wide variety of shellfish and other species.[4]

The lower Elwha (below the former Aldwell Reservoir) is rated class II.

See also

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References

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Further reading

[edit]
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Elwha River

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
The Elwha River is a 72-kilometer-long river on Washington's , originating from headwaters in the at elevations exceeding 1,500 meters and flowing northwest through to its mouth on the near Port Angeles. It drains a watershed of approximately 833 square kilometers, characterized by steep gradients, glacial influences, and diverse shaped by uplift, , and historical dynamics. The river's ecosystem was profoundly altered by the construction of two hydroelectric dams—Elwha Dam in 1913 and Glines Canyon Dam in 1927—which blocked upstream migration of Pacific species, trapped over 20 million cubic meters of , and reduced available by disconnecting roughly 70 miles of pristine river and reaches. These structures generated power but caused downstream channel incision, coarsening of substrates unsuitable for spawning, and collapse of populations that historically supported nutrient cycling and food webs across the watershed. From 2011 to 2014, the dams were removed in a phased process—the largest such project in U.S. history—releasing stored sediments, reconnecting the full watershed, and initiating ecosystem recovery monitored by federal agencies. Initial effects included massive pulses altering channels, deltas, and coastal habitats, with short-term disruptions to and biota, but longer-term observations show stabilizing , expanding riparian , beach accretion, and returns of multiple to upstream areas, though full recovery of populations remains ongoing and may span generations. The restoration underscores causal linkages between unobstructed connectivity, , and biotic resilience in river systems, while highlighting trade-offs between and ecological integrity based on empirical pre- and post-removal data from USGS and NPS studies.

Physical Characteristics

Course and Hydrology

The Elwha River originates at approximately 6,000 feet (1,800 meters) elevation in the Olympic Mountains of Washington state, emerging from an avalanche-fed snowfield known as the Snowfinger, and flows generally northwest for 45 miles (72 kilometers) through Olympic National Park before emptying into the Strait of Juan de Fuca near Port Angeles. The river's course traverses steep mountainous terrain in its upper reaches, descending through deep canyons and transitioning to broader valleys and bottomlands in the lower sections, where it meanders across glacial outwash plains before reaching its estuary. The Elwha River's watershed encompasses over 300 square miles (833 square kilometers), primarily within , capturing and from the rugged . Average annual discharge at the river's mouth measures approximately 40 cubic meters per second (1,400 cubic feet per second), with flows exhibiting a nival-pluvial regime characterized by peak discharges in late spring from and additional surges from winter rainfall events. dominates higher-elevation flows from April to early summer, while heavy drives peaks, which are common due to the basin's steep gradients and annual exceeding 100 inches (2,500 millimeters) in upper elevations; discharge declines seasonally until replenished by melting . The river supports over 100 miles (160 kilometers) of tributaries, contributing to its variable hydrologic dynamics and capacity.

Watershed and Tributaries

The Elwha River watershed encompasses 321 square miles (831 km²) primarily within on the northern in Clallam and Jefferson counties, Washington. The basin features steep, glaciated terrain characteristic of the , with snowfield-fed supporting high stream gradients and seasonal flows driven by and heavy . The watershed includes over 100 miles (161 km) of tributaries that historically connected to more than 140 km of mainstem and . Major tributaries are Indian Creek, originating at Lake Sutherland with a of 7.5 miles (12 km); Little River at 7.8 miles (13 km); Hayes River; and Lillian River. These streams drain sub-basins with similar high-relief profiles, contributing sediment and nutrients to the Elwha mainstem while providing spawning and rearing grounds for anadromous species.

Historical Development

Indigenous and Pre-Dam Era

The Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe, a sovereign federally recognized Indian Nation, has inhabited the Elwha River valley for thousands of years, with the Tse-whit-zen village site—uncovered during construction in 2003—revealing one of the largest, oldest, and most intact indigenous settlements in the , including human remains and artifacts carbon-dated to at least 1500 BCE. The tribe's oral traditions place their origins in the river's fertile lower valley east of , where the waterway's resources formed the foundation of their culture, economy, and spiritual beliefs, including reliance on seasonal harvests for and . Archaeological and ethnographic records indicate dense populations supported by the river's productivity, with longhouses and burial grounds along its banks evidencing continuous occupation through seasonal migrations and resource gathering. Prior to European contact in the late 18th century, the Klallam maintained a sustainable relationship with the ecosystem, fishing with weirs, dip nets, and spears during peak salmon migrations while practicing controlled burns to enhance habitat and prevent overexploitation. The first recorded European encounter occurred in 1788 when British explorer Robert Duffin met Klallam people near the river mouth, but indigenous stewardship predated this by millennia, shaping the valley's old-growth forests of Douglas fir, western hemlock, and cedar that provided materials for canoes, plank houses, and totem poles. The pre-dam Elwha River, unobstructed from its headwaters in the to the , flowed through diverse including gravelly spawning beds, deep pools, and meadows, sustaining eleven of anadromous salmonids such as chinook, coho, sockeye, , and alongside and . Annual returns exceeded 400,000 adult , enabling spawning across roughly 70 miles of accessible riverine and , with early spring chinook runs followed by summer and fall peaks that delivered nutrient-rich marine-derived organic matter to terrestrial ecosystems via carcasses, supporting riparian vegetation, bears, eagles, and populations. This abundance underpinned Klallam , with estimates suggesting comprised up to 80% of their diet, fostering social structures around communal sites and ceremonies. The interconnected , free of barriers until the early , exemplified a resilient causal dynamic where oceanic productivity cycled through the watershed, bolstering without artificial interventions.

Dam Construction and Operation (1910s–2010)

The Elwha Dam, a concrete gravity structure standing 108 feet high, was constructed primarily for hydroelectric power generation to fuel local industrial growth, particularly the pulp and logging sectors in Port Angeles, Washington. Construction began in September 1910 under the direction of Canadian entrepreneur Thomas Aldwell, who acquired riparian rights and partnered with investors including George Glines to develop the project. Delays arose from foundation instability in 1912, but the dam became operational in 1913, impounding Lake Aldwell roughly 4.9 miles upstream from the river mouth and marking the first major hydropower installation on the Elwha River. Built without fish passage mechanisms, despite territorial-era requirements for such features on Washington dams, the Elwha Dam immediately obstructed anadromous , a deficiency that persisted throughout its operational life without effective remediation. The project faced early financial difficulties, leading to bankruptcy for Aldwell's Olympic Power Company, after which control passed to subsequent owners including timber firms that integrated the power output into regional manufacturing operations. Upstream, the Glines Canyon Dam—a 210-foot-high (64-meter) arch structure—was erected by the Northwestern Power and Light Company between 1925 and 1927 to expand hydroelectric capacity, impounding Mills Reservoir (later Lake Mills) at approximately river mile 13.5. Like its downstream counterpart, it lacked fish ladders from inception, receiving a 50-year federal license in 1926 that authorized power production for local utilities without mandates for passage improvements. From the 1910s through 2010, both dams operated continuously under private ownership—eventually consolidating under entities like the Daishowa America pulp mill—supplying electricity to support industries, though output remained limited relative to broader grid demands. No substantive upgrades for passage were implemented during this period, despite intermittent state and federal pressures, preserving the barriers to upstream habitat access while prioritizing power reliability for economic beneficiaries.

Decision and Execution of Dam Removal (1990s–2014)

The decision to remove the Elwha and Glines Canyon Dams emerged from federal relicensing proceedings initiated in the 1980s, as the Glines Canyon Dam's Federal Energy Regulatory Commission (FERC) license had expired in 1981 and the Elwha Dam had operated without one since its construction in 1913. In February 1991, FERC released a Draft Environmental Impact Statement determining that dam removal was feasible and the only option to fully restore the river's ecosystem and native fisheries, given the structures' blockage of over 70 miles of habitat. This assessment followed extensive studies highlighting the dams' impacts on sediment trapping and anadromous fish migration, with the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe advocating strongly for removal to revive culturally vital salmon runs. Congress responded with the Elwha River Ecosystem and Fisheries Restoration Act of 1992, which authorized the Secretary of the Interior to acquire the dams and facilitate their removal to restore the watershed's natural processes and fish populations. The Act directed the preparation of an (EIS) evaluating alternatives, culminating in a Final EIS in 1994 and a Record of Decision in 1996 selecting full removal of both dams as the preferred strategy. Federal acquisition negotiations with the private owner, Daishowa America, began in 1999 and concluded in 2000, transferring ownership to the for $29.5 million, enabling project implementation under the Elwha Restoration Project. Execution commenced on , 2011, with phased deconstruction to control the release of approximately 24 million cubic yards of impounded , minimizing downstream flooding and risks through staged notching and gradual drawdown. The 108-foot was fully removed by 2012, while work on the taller 210-foot Glines Canyon Dam paused briefly in 2013 due to overload at the Port Angeles plant, resuming October 5 after upgrades. By August 2014, both dams were completely demolished, marking the largest such project in U.S. history and initiating uncontrolled river flow over 83 miles of former bed. Monitoring during removal confirmed effectiveness, with over 40% of released by late 2013 without catastrophic events, though temporary spikes occurred as predicted in the EIS.

Ecological Profile

Pre-Dam Biodiversity and Fisheries

Prior to dam construction, the Elwha River supported ten native anadromous salmonid runs, accessing over 70 kilometers of mainstem habitat characterized by meandering channels, gravel-cobble substrates, and side channels ideal for spawning and rearing. These runs included spring and summer/fall Chinook salmon (Oncorhynchus tshawytscha), coho salmon (O. kisutch), pink salmon (O. gorbuscha), chum salmon (O. keta), sockeye salmon (O. nerka), winter and summer steelhead (O. mykiss), sea-run cutthroat trout (O. clarkii), Dolly Varden char (Salvelinus malma), and bull trout (S. confluentus).
Anadromous RunHistorical Habitat Use
Spring ChinookFull mainstem access, spring spawning
Summer/Fall ChinookFull mainstem access, fall spawning
CohoTributaries and mainstem rearing
Lower river, limited by natural rapids at river mile 33.7
ChumLower river spawning
SockeyeRiver and potential lake-like areas
Winter Full mainstem migration
Summer Full mainstem migration
Sea-run Estuary and lower river
/Dolly VardenAnadromous and resident forms throughout
Historical abundance estimates, derived from tribal oral histories, early settler observations, and modeling of capacity, indicate annual production exceeding 380,000 and , with escapement around 140,000 individuals and wild Chinook runs surpassing 31,000 adults. reached approximately 800,000 pounds annually, transporting 13,000 pounds of marine-derived nutrients ( and ) into the watershed, which enriched and supported secondary production in aquatic and terrestrial food webs. These dynamics fostered high , with post-spawning carcasses sustaining over 22 wildlife species, including black bears, bald eagles, river otters, and , while riparian corridors of western hemlock, , red , and willows provided for beavers, , amphibians, raptors, and birds. The , extending 300–600 meters with sand-gravel substrates, hosted juvenile rearing for multiple species alongside and communities. Fisheries in the pre-dam era were integral to the Lower Elwha S’Klallam Tribe, forming a dietary staple, cultural cornerstone, and economic foundation through dip-netting, weirs, and drying for winter storage, with comprising a primary protein source amid limited . Commercial and subsistence harvests extended to non-tribal , leveraging the river's as one of the Olympic Peninsula's premier salmon producers, though precise catch records from the late are sparse due to reliance on anecdotal tribal and explorer accounts. Natural barriers like Goblins Gate rapids occasionally constrained and to lower reaches, but overall accessibility enabled self-sustaining populations without artificial supplementation.

Dam-Induced Ecological Changes

The , completed in 1913, and Glines Canyon Dam, completed in 1927, blocked anadromous salmonid migration to over 90 percent of the Elwha River watershed, eliminating access to historic spawning and rearing habitats upstream. This obstruction reduced abundance to a fraction of pre-dam levels, with species such as becoming locally extirpated and others persisting only in remnant populations below the dams. The dams also prevented downstream transport of large woody debris, diminishing habitat complexity, pool formation, and cover for in the lower river. Sediment trapping behind the dams accumulated approximately 21 million cubic meters of material, depriving the downstream river, , and nearshore environment of natural sediment supply. This deficit caused channel incision and armoring with coarse and cobbles in the lower river, degrading fine-grained spawning substrates essential for salmonids and reducing overall benthic habitat quality. Estuarine and coastal zones experienced accelerated , beach retreat, and diminished delta formation, altering intertidal and subtidal habitats and contributing to lower abundances of and prior to . Reservoir impoundment elevated downstream water temperatures through solar heating and stagnation, with studies documenting warming attributable to heat retention in Lake Mills and Lake Aldwell. These thermal changes, combined with reduced peak flows and altered hydrographs, stressed cold-water stenotherms like juveniles and disrupted seasonal cues for migration and reproduction. Upstream of the dams, marine-derived nutrients from decomposing carcasses were curtailed, leading to oligotrophic conditions and diminished primary productivity in former riverine reaches now converted to reservoirs. Riparian vegetation below the dams exhibited reduced diversity, linked to sediment starvation, stabilized flows, and lack of disturbance regimes that historically promoted recruitment. Within reservoirs, inundation submerged diverse riparian and forests, replacing lotic ecosystems with lentic ones dominated by emergent aquatic plants and reduced terrestrial . These alterations collectively diminished connectivity, nutrient cycling, and trophic support for wildlife dependent on , including bears, eagles, and river otters.

Post-Removal Sediment Dynamics and Habitat Recovery

Following the staged removal of (2011–2012) and Glines Canyon Dam (2013–2014), approximately 20.5 million metric tons of eroded from the former reservoirs and were transported downstream, representing a pulse roughly five times larger than any prior project. By fall 2016, 19.3 ± 3.8 million metric tons had been exported from the reservoirs, with peak export rates from Lake Mills reaching 8.8 ± 1.8 million metric tons in 2013—about 70 times the pre-dam annual load. This surge caused rapid incision exceeding 10 meters vertically and hundreds of meters laterally in the Lake Mills reach during the second year post-removal, while downstream elevated channel beds by 1.0–1.5 meters, promoting braiding, pool infilling, and lateral migration. Of the mobilized , 2.1 ± 0.4 million metric tons deposited in the river channel and , 5.4 ± 1.6 million metric tons formed a coastal delta expanding ~60 hectares, and the remainder dispersed offshore into the . These dynamics initially disrupted habitats through elevated and substrate instability, reducing algal and macroinvertebrate abundances in the river and nearshore zones during peak release (2012–2014), but facilitated geomorphic reconfiguration conducive to recovery. New bars, side channels, and pool-riffle complexes emerged from deposition, providing spawning redd substrates and juvenile rearing areas for salmonids, with released large wood enhancing structural complexity for aquatic refugia. In the and delta, sediment accretion created ~26.8 hectares of emergent land by 2016, supporting pioneer vegetation and infaunal communities like sand lance and geoducks, though beds recovered only after subsided post-2014. Riparian habitat recovery accelerated as vegetation colonized exposed sediments, with fast-growing species such as Alnus rubra and Populus balsamifera stabilizing fine-grained terraces and floodplains within 1–5 years, increasing native plant richness by up to 31% in middle-river segments via hydrochore dispersal. In-channel recovery lagged due to ongoing reworking, but by water years 2015–2016, sinuosity rose with engineered and natural log jams promoting floodplain reconnection and sediment retention. Benthic invertebrates in depositional zones, including polychaetes and crabs, largely reverted to pre-disturbance abundances by 2017–2022, signaling stabilization, though full channel pattern maturity and offshore sediment dispersal continue over decadal scales. Overall, the sediment regime has transitioned toward pre-dam conditions, with monitoring indicating sustained habitat gains for salmon recolonization despite initial perturbations.

Restoration and Biological Recovery

Project Implementation and Monitoring

The Elwha River dam removal project commenced in September 2011, with the initial phased deconstruction of the 108-foot Elwha Dam, managed by the U.S. Department of the Interior under the authority of the 1992 Elwha River Ecosystem and Fisheries Restoration Act. Removal proceeded in controlled increments over approximately two to three years for both the Elwha and upstream 210-foot Glines Canyon Dam, prioritizing gradual sediment release to minimize downstream flooding and water quality disruptions. The Elwha Dam was fully dismantled by mid-2012, followed by the staged removal of Glines Canyon Dam starting in August 2012 and concluding in August 2014, after which the river flowed freely over 70 miles for the first time in a century. Sediment management formed a core element of implementation, addressing the roughly 19 million cubic meters of material impounded behind the dams, with an estimated 7–8 million cubic meters slated for downstream transport via natural fluvial erosion rather than mechanical dredging. Fine-grained sediments (silt, clay, sand) comprised half to two-thirds of the released volume, while coarser gravels and cobbles made up the remainder, leading to initial delta formation in reservoirs and episodic downstream pulses that reshaped channels and floodplains. Adaptive strategies, informed by real-time data, adjusted removal rates to balance ecological recovery against risks like turbidity spikes affecting downstream habitats and the Strait of Juan de Fuca estuary. Monitoring efforts, coordinated through the Elwha Monitoring and Adaptive Management (EMAM) framework, integrated pre-removal baselines with ongoing observations across physical, chemical, and biological parameters to evaluate restoration trajectories. Interagency collaboration involving the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), National Park Service (NPS), Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe, NOAA Fisheries, and others tracked sediment discharge, river morphology, water quality, and habitat formation using tools such as sonar, radio telemetry, snorkel surveys, and geochemical sampling. For fisheries, phase-based goals—from preservation during removal to recolonization and viability—employed performance indicators like abundance, productivity, distribution, and diversity, with trigger values prompting interventions such as supplemental stocking if natural recovery lagged. This data-driven approach has documented rapid geomorphic changes, including channel widening and gravel recruitment, while highlighting persistent challenges like fine-sediment lingering in reservoirs.

Salmonid Recolonization Data

Following the removal of the Elwha and Glines Canyon Dams between 2011 and 2014, monitoring by the , U.S. Geological Survey, NOAA Fisheries, and the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe documented rapid upstream recolonization by anadromous salmonids using methods including riverscape snorkeling surveys over 65 km of mainstem, redd counts, radio telemetry, smolt traps, and sampling. All major salmonid species except had reached upstream of the former Glines Canyon Dam site by 2019, with spatial extent of adult passage increasing by 50–60 km for and summer . Population abundances generally rose post-removal compared to pre-dam baselines, though recovery remains incomplete relative to historical levels estimated in the tens to hundreds of thousands for some species prior to the .
SpeciesFirst Upstream Passage Beyond Glines CanyonKey Abundance Data (Post-2011)
(Oncorhynchus tshawytscha)By 2016Adults increased from 548 (2007 pre-removal) to 1,937 (2019); average escapement 4,024 (2013–2018).
(O. kisutch)By 2016 (aided by relocations)Average 412 adults relocated annually (2011–2016); spawning redds documented in tributaries.
Winter (O. mykiss)By 2016Redd counts and escapement rose post-removal; 2022 estimate of 2,519 adults.
Summer (O. mykiss)201650–250 observed (2016–2018); 229 (2018) to 339 (2019).
(O. nerka)Post-2014 (straying origins)Adults resuming anadromy in Lake ; limited but increasing returns by 2021.
(Salvelinus confluentus)By 2016Increased from 117 (2007) to 399 (2019); resumed anadromy.
Pink and chum salmon showed limited upstream presence, with chum first observed in 2015 but sparse data thereafter; pink salmon observations remained downstream-focused. Environmental DNA confirmed detection of multiple species in formerly inaccessible reaches, validating physical surveys. As of 2024, adult returns and juvenile outmigration continue to expand, supported by adaptive management including hatchery releases and harvest limits, though sediment dynamics and water temperature fluctuations have influenced early recruitment rates. Genetic analyses indicate resilient diversity in steelhead, with rapid mixing of pre- and post-dam lineages facilitating recolonization.

Vegetation and Wildlife Responses

Following the removal of the Elwha and Glines Canyon Dams between 2011 and 2014, in the former Lake Mills and Lake Aldwell reservoirs began recolonizing exposed s, driven by altered hydrology, exposure, and processes. Initial colonization featured adapted to unstable substrates, with gradual shifts toward more diverse riparian assemblages as surfaces stabilized. In coastal areas, the Elwha River delta expanded by approximately 26.8 s from 2011 to 2018, enabling to cover about 16.4 s of newly formed surfaces, including 1.0 of dunegrass or willow-alder communities and 5.9 s of emergent by 2018. These new plantings exhibited lower initial cover of dominant species and functional groups compared to established communities, though and similarity to reference sites increased over time on higher, stable elevations away from shorelines. Declining loads from 2016 to 2018 reduced new delta formation by 4.5 s and caused 1.6 s of vegetated area to revert to bare ground, highlighting ongoing geomorphic . Downstream riparian zones showed detectable shifts in structure and diversity within six years of removal initiation, though full restoration of pre-dam patterns remains incomplete, with persistent influences from pulses and altered flow regimes. Terrestrial wildlife responses have included rapid colonization of former beds, with 15 documented across the exposed areas by 2021–2023, approximately a post-removal. such as American black bears, Columbian , , pumas, coyotes, bobcats, and snowshoe hares established presence, with detection rates varying by site: for instance, coyotes averaged 8 independent detections per 100 trap-nights in the former Lake Aldwell reach, snowshoe hares 15 per 100 in Lake Mills, and deer 17–20 per 100 across reaches. Black bears appeared in all seasons, contrasting with pre-removal patterns limited to specific periods. These establishments reflect opportunistic use of emerging riparian habitats, though distributions differ by reach and season, and complete integration may require decades amid evolving terrain. Avian communities, including -dependent birds, have contributed to restoration via of native riparian plants in revegetation efforts, with monitoring indicating potential as indicators of recovery progress. Other taxa, such as otters and , show continued adaptation to restored dynamics, though initial releases posed transient disruptions to some habitats. Overall, while and exhibit positive recolonization trends, responses underscore the prolonged, non-linear nature of recovery influenced by redistribution and stabilization.

Human and Economic Dimensions

Hydropower Contributions and Losses

The Elwha Dam and Glines Canyon Dam together provided an installed capacity of 28.6 megawatts, with the Elwha Dam contributing 12.6 megawatts and the Glines Canyon Dam 16.0 megawatts. These facilities generated an average of 172 gigawatt-hours of annually, supplying approximately 43% of the 400 gigawatt-hours required by the Daishowa America pulp and in . The power production cost 12.29 mills per in 1996, compared to regional market rates of 26.7 mills per kilowatt-hour and avoided costs of 33.3 mills per kilowatt-hour, yielding net economic benefits including about $2.1 million in annual revenue for the mill operator in 1996 dollars. Operations of the supported roughly 10 jobs in maintenance and generated $230,000 in annual property taxes for Clallam County. Annual operating and maintenance expenses totaled $1.1 million, offset by the low-cost renewable output that reduced reliance on higher-priced grid electricity. The served local industrial needs while contributing to Washington state's portfolio of clean energy sources, with minimal environmental footprint in terms of emissions during operation. Dam removal, completed between 2011 and 2014, eliminated this 172 gigawatt-hours of annual generation, requiring replacement through regional grid purchases or alternative sources. Local replacement costs were projected at $6.7 million annually, escalating to $7.2 million under regional avoided cost metrics, with total discounted costs over 100 years ranging from $171.9 million to $281.6 million at a 3% rate. This shift increased electricity expenses for remaining local users and potentially elevated if substitutes included fossil fuel-based generation, contrasting the zero-emission profile of the original hydroelectric output. While regional and options were explored as mitigations, the net loss represented a forfeiture of reliable, low-cost baseload renewable power without equivalent ecological offsets documented in hydropower-specific terms.

Cultural and Recreational Roles

The Elwha River has long held central cultural importance for the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe, a federally recognized sovereign nation whose traditional territory encompasses the river's and lower reaches. The tribe's creation story originates in the river's fertile valley east of , underscoring its foundational role in Klallam identity and worldview. Prior to dam construction in the early , the river supported 10 runs of anadromous , including all five species of Pacific salmon, which provided essential sustenance, spiritual sustenance, and economic resources through fishing and trade for the tribe's communities along its banks. Salmon remain intricately woven into the tribe's Coast Salish cultural fabric, symbolizing resilience, sustenance, and ceremonial practices, with historical abundances enabling and social structures tied to seasonal harvests. The construction of the in 1913 and Glines Canyon Dam in 1927 blocked upstream migration, decimating salmon populations and flooding sites of religious significance, which profoundly disrupted these cultural practices and contributed to the tribe's displacement from traditional village sites near the river. Post-dam removal between 2011 and 2014, the tribe has actively participated in restoration, monitoring salmon recolonization to revive cultural fisheries and stewardship as co-managers with state and federal agencies. Recreationally, the Elwha River and its surrounding valley attract visitors for , with the offering a 25.7-mile route through old-growth forests of , cedar, and hemlock, featuring moderate to strenuous sections with over 6,000 feet of elevation gain suitable for backpacking. Shorter day hikes like the and Humes Ranch Loop provide access to riparian areas recovering from sediment deposition post-restoration. and have expanded since dam removal, with guided trips navigating Class II to IV on the freed river flow, offering views of evolving habitats and requiring permits for safety amid dynamic channel changes. Fishing for recovering salmon and trout species draws anglers, though strictly regulated under tribal, state, and park rules to prioritize ecological recovery, with catch-and-release often mandated in upper reaches; the tribe's fisheries data inform seasonal limits to sustain runs essential for both and cultural harvest. These activities, concentrated in the lower and middle river corridors, emphasize low-impact use to avoid disturbing sediment-laden restoration zones, as monitored by the in collaboration with the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe as of 2024.

Fiscal Costs Versus Ecological Claims

The Elwha River project, executed by the U.S. Department of the Interior from to 2014, ultimately cost over $325 million, surpassing initial 2004 projections of $182 million due to extensive handling requirements that complicated and necessitated additional for downstream and impacts. authorized up to $360 million in federal funding, drawn primarily from taxpayer dollars, to cover , restoration, and compensatory measures like a new facility costing $79 million. Retrospective economic assessments confirmed that actual expenditures and project scope exceeded pre-removal forecasts, while the value of forgone —previously generating about 38 megawatts annually—was lower than anticipated due to depreciated infrastructure and alternative energy sourcing. Proponents justified the investment through ecological claims emphasizing restoration of pre-dam salmonid productivity, predicting that removing the barriers would reconnect 70 miles of and enable ten historic runs to rebound toward levels supporting thousands of adult spawners annually within decades. Post-removal monitoring by the and NOAA Fisheries has documented initial gains, including expanded access upstream by 60 kilometers and improved juvenile Chinook survival in restored reaches, alongside benthic invertebrate recovery as redistributed. However, adult Chinook returns as of 2022 remained below the 10-year pre-removal average, with fisheries closures persisting until at least 2023 to protect stocks, indicating slower recolonization than some models projected amid ongoing challenges like predation and ocean conditions. Economic evaluations, including ex post benefit-cost ratios, assert net positives when incorporating non-market values such as and bequest benefits estimated via surveys—potentially $3.5 billion annually in public willingness-to-pay—but these rely on hypothetical preferences that critics contend inflate intangible gains relative to verifiable fiscal burdens and the irreplaceable loss of dispatchable renewable power. Such analyses often discount future ecological returns optimistically, yet empirical data through 2024 show partial habitat recovery without commensurate salmonid population surges to offset the upfront costs or energy trade-offs, fueling debates over whether outcomes warrant the precedent for similar large-scale interventions.

Controversies and Empirical Assessments

Pro-Removal Arguments and Assumptions

The , completed in 1913, and the Glines Canyon Dam, completed in 1927, blocked anadromous fish migration on the Elwha River, restricting and access to roughly 5 miles of lower river from a pre-dam historical range exceeding 70 miles, thereby decimating native fisheries that once supported annual returns estimated in the tens of thousands for species like . Proponents, including the and the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe, contended that full dam removal would restore connectivity to pristine upstream spawning and rearing grounds within , enabling natural recolonization by all seven Pacific species and , with and monitoring to facilitate recovery. This ecological reconnection was viewed as essential to reversing fishery declines linked causally to impassable barriers, absent fish ladders, which had persisted despite relicensing efforts under the Federal Power Act. A core assumption underlying these arguments was that salmon populations would rebound swiftly post-removal, predicated on historical abundance data from before —when the Elwha supported commercially viable runs—and of straying from nearby unaltered rivers like the Quillayute, supplemented by tribal releases to jump-start upstream migration. Advocates further assumed that the river's inherent , including via returning carcasses, would sustain self-reproducing stocks without indefinite reliance on artificial , drawing from first-principles understanding of anadromous life cycles dependent on unobstructed access to diverse habitats for spawning, incubation, and ocean-bound smolt migration. Dam removal was also justified by the need to release approximately 21 million cubic meters of sediment impounded behind the structures, which had halted natural fluvial transport critical for aggrading downstream channels, estuaries, and coastal beaches that eroded at rates up to 1.5 meters per year post-impoundment. Proponents anticipated that staged reservoir drawdown and dam deconstruction from 2011 to 2014 would mobilize this material in a controlled pulse, rebuilding habitats like the Elwha delta—historically a productive nearshore ecosystem—while assuming minimal long-term turbidity or bedload impacts on water quality and benthic communities, based on geomorphic models and observations from prior small-dam removals. For the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe, restoration addressed treaty-reserved fishing rights impaired by fishery collapse and flooding of ancestral villages, with removal enabling cultural revitalization through renewed subsistence and ceremonial salmon harvests. The dams' hydroelectric output, totaling an installed capacity of about 40 megawatts under run-of-river operations but averaging far less annually due to seasonal flows, was argued to be economically marginal—constituting under 0.1% of Washington State's power supply—and readily offset by efficiency gains elsewhere or non-hydro renewables, prioritizing irreversible ecological gains over reversible energy infrastructure. This rationale assumed that federal compensation to the private licensee via the 1992 Elwha River Ecosystem and Fisheries Restoration Act would mitigate losses without taxpayer burden beyond the project's $327 million cost, framing removal as a net-positive in and tribal sovereignty.

Criticisms of Outcomes and Alternatives

Critics of the Elwha River dam removal project have highlighted the slower-than-expected salmonid recolonization, with natural upstream migration remaining limited more than a decade after completion in 2014, prompting the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe to transplant hatchery-origin above former dam sites in 2023 to accelerate recovery. Monitoring data indicate that while lower-river Chinook spawning has increased, upper-basin access for anadromous species has been constrained by factors including predation, residual sediment effects, and broader oceanic conditions, falling short of pre-dam abundance projections that anticipated quicker rebound. The removal also entailed the irreversible forfeiture of roughly 33 megawatts of low-cost, renewable hydroelectric capacity from the Elwha and Glines Canyon dams, equivalent to powering approximately 20,000 households annually, without equivalent replacement in regional clean energy portfolios. This power loss, valued at about $16.6 million per year in dollars, has been cited as exacerbating dependence on costlier or less sustainable alternatives, particularly given the dams' minimal environmental footprint compared to backups. Post-removal sediment mobilization, while rebuilding coastal habitats, generated prolonged high-turbidity events that disrupted mainstem rearing and contributed to instability in side channels through at least 2020. Alternatives such as installing fish passage structures, including ladders or traps, were evaluated as potentially achieving partial restoration at lower expense; a 1991 U.S. Government Accountability Office analysis estimated these at $20–40 million (1990 dollars) versus $61 million for full , while preserving output and avoiding release risks. Such options were projected to support targeted runs of Chinook, coho, and with fair-to-good efficacy, though less comprehensive for extirpated species like pink and chum , based on models and comparative sites. Proponents of retention argued that adaptive passage technologies, refined since the dams' construction without ladders in 1913 and 1927, could mitigate migration barriers cost-effectively, sidestepping the uncertainties of decade-scale ecological reconfiguration observed in Elwha outcomes. These critiques underscore trade-offs between maximal habitat restoration and pragmatic fiscal-ecological balancing, with empirical data suggesting passage might have yielded nearer-term fisheries gains absent removal's extensive commitments.

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