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Erraid
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Erraid
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Erraid (Scottish Gaelic: Eilean Earraid) is a tidal island approximately one mile (two kilometres) square located in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland. It lies west of Mull (to which it is linked by a beach at low tide) and southeast of Iona. The island receives about 1,000 millimetres (40 in) of rain[6] and 1,350 hours of sunshine annually, making it one of the driest and sunniest places on the western seaboard of Scotland. It is attended by numerous uninhabited small islets, the largest being Eilean Dubh (of which there are two), Eilean nam Muc, Eilean Chalmain, Eilean Ghomain and Eilean na Seamair.[3]

Key Information

The island features a disused signal station for the lighthouses on Dubh Artach and Skerryvore and a row of cottages built for the lighthouse keepers.

Satish Kumar has also visited the island and his autobiography includes an account of the event.[7]

The island is privately owned and is home to an intentional community, linked to the Findhorn Foundation.[6]

There is a well-known anchorage on the western side of the island called 'Tinker's Hole'.[8] It is a deep but narrow channel between Erraid and the westernmost of the islets called Eilean Dubh.[9]

In 2021, Ben Fogle's long-running hit Channel 5 series 'New Lives in the Wild' visited the island to record an episode with one of the permanent community members living there (Philip Hetherington). The episode aired on 21 September 2021.

Kidnapped

[edit]
The cottages constructed by the Northern Lighthouse Board circa 1872
On the Island of Earraid, a 1913 oil painting by N. C. Wyeth for an illustrated version of Kidnapped
Pronunciation
Scots Gaelic Pronunciation
Arthraigh [ˈaɾhɾaj] ⓘ
Eilean Chalmain [ˈelan ˈxal̪ˠamɛɲ] ⓘ
Eilean Dubh [ˈelan ˈt̪uh] ⓘ
Eilean Earraid [ˈelan ˈɛrˠɪtʲ] ⓘ
Eilean Ghomain [ˈelan ˈɣomɛɲ] ⓘ
Eilean nam Muc [ˈelan nə ˈmuxk] ⓘ
Eilean na Seamair [ˈelan nə ˈʃɛmɪɾʲ] ⓘ

Erraid is one of the locations featured in the novel Kidnapped by Robert Louis Stevenson.[10] David Balfour, the hero of this tale was marooned for a while on the island having been shipwrecked on the Torran Rocks, which lie to the south. Stevenson's father, Thomas was involved in the construction of the nearby lighthouses, and the stones for Dhu Heartach were quarried on the island,[11] and the young Robert Louis visited the island on several occasions, recalling one such excursion in his book Memories and Portraits. He later based the fictional island of Aros, the setting of his short story "The Merry Men", on the island.[12][13]

Davie Balfour is trapped on the island by his ignorance, and as he says in Kidnapped: Chapter XIV-

A sea-bred boy would not have stayed a day on Earraid; which is only what they call a tidal islet, and except in the bottom of the neaps, can be entered and left twice in every twenty-four hours, either dry-shod, or at the most by wading. Even I, who had the tide going out and in before me in the bay, and even watched for the ebbs, the better to get my shellfish—even I (I say) if I had sat down to think, instead of raging at my fate, must have soon guessed the secret, and got free. It was no wonder the fishers had not understood me. The wonder was rather that they had ever guessed my pitiful illusion, and taken the trouble to come back. I had starved with cold and hunger on that island for close upon one hundred hours. But for the fishers, I might have left my bones there, in pure folly. And even as it was, I had paid for it pretty dear, not only in past sufferings, but in my present case; being clothed like a beggar-man, scarce able to walk, and in great pain of my sore throat.

Stevenson also includes a description of the island:

It was still the roughest kind of walking; indeed the whole, not only of Earraid, but of the neighbouring part of Mull (which they call the Ross) is nothing but a jumble of granite rocks with heather in among.

Davie Balfour stayed alive during his stay on the island by eating limpets:

I knew indeed that shell-fish were counted good to eat; and among the rocks of the isle I found a great plenty of limpets, which at first I could scarcely strike from their places, not knowing quickness to be needful. There were, besides, some of the little shells that we call buckies; I think periwinkle is the English name. Of these two I made my whole diet, devouring them cold and raw as I found them; and so hungry was I, that at first they seemed to me delicious.

See also

[edit]
Fitting of blocks for Dubh Artach lighthouse on Erraid prior to erection on site.

References

[edit]
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Erraid

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Erraid is a small in the of , situated approximately one (3 sq km) off the southwest coast of the Isle of Mull at the southern end of the Sound of Iona, connected to the mainland by a sandy beach at low tide. The island features rugged granite terrain shaped by the last , with possible evidence of human occupation dating back to the period around 6000 BC, when hunter-gatherers likely established temporary coastal camps sustained by fishing, shellfish, and foraging. Subsequent and settlements included burial cairns, house foundations, field walls, and lazy beds for farming, indicating settled agricultural communities, while remains such as a dun (fortified site) suggest defensive adaptations against invasions. Medieval activity from around 1058 to 1560 involved tenant farming linked to , with possible monastic retreats evidenced by beehive huts and kale yards. In the , Erraid served as a shore station for the construction and maintenance of nearby on Dubh Artach and , where stones were quarried and fabricated on the island; this period also saw the building of a row of cottages on the north coast to house lighthouse keepers and their families starting in the 1870s. The island gained literary prominence through its association with , whose father Thomas and uncles oversaw the lighthouse projects; young Robert visited Erraid multiple times in the 1860s as an apprentice engineer, and these experiences inspired the shipwreck scene in his 1886 novel Kidnapped, where protagonist David Balfour is marooned on the island for about 100 hours after a wreck on the Torran Rocks. Stevenson later recalled one such visit in his essay collection Memories and Portraits, describing the harsh conditions and isolation. Uninhabited since the 1960s following the automation of the lighthouses, Erraid has been privately owned by the Van der Sluis family since 1977. It was under the custodianship of the from 1978 until July 2025 and is now home to an independent, place-based committed to regenerative living for seasonal retreats, emphasizing self-sufficiency through , wood heating, and composting. The island's notably mild climate—receiving about 1,000 mm of rain annually and 1,350 hours of sunshine—supports diverse wildlife, including white-tailed sea eagles, and it remains accessible by foot across the tidal causeway or by boat from Fionnphort on Mull, though visitors must check tide times to avoid stranding. A disused signal station and the preserved keepers' cottages add to its historical character, while the nearby Tinker’s Hole anchorage between Erraid and the islet of Eilean Dubh offers shelter for small boats.

Geography

Location and access

Erraid is a in the of , part of , located approximately 1.5 km southwest of Fionnphort on the Ross of Mull and immediately adjacent to the southwest coast of the Isle of Mull. It lies at the southern end of the Sound of Iona, with clear views toward to the northwest. The island's coordinates are approximately 56°18′N 6°21′W, corresponding to OS grid reference NM29 (western sector). Covering an area of approximately 1 (3 square kilometres), Erraid is a compact, irregularly shaped about 1 mile in length and width. The island connects to Mull via a broad sandy exposed at , allowing access on foot from Knockvologan beach—a walk of about 10-15 minutes across the strand. In adverse weather, however, the route poses risks from rocky outcrops, uneven terrain, and swift tidal changes, necessitating careful timing based on local tide tables. Access to Erraid is mainly pedestrian via the low-tide crossing, with no scheduled available; visitors typically start from Fionnphort by walking or driving to Knockvologan. access is feasible through Tinker's Hole, a sheltered anchorage featuring a deep, narrow channel on the island's western side, suitable for small vessels but requiring precise to avoid surrounding rocks. Erraid is fringed by numerous small, uninhabited islets, including two named Eilean Dubh, as well as Eilean nam Muc (off its west coast), Eilean Chalmain, Eilean Ghomain, and Eilean na Seamair.

Topography and environment

Erraid is a small measuring approximately one mile square, with a varied featuring low-lying coastal areas rising to its highest point, Cnoc Mòr, at 75 meters above . The island's landscape includes rocky shores, sandy beaches, and gentle hills, shaped by long-term processes and accessible by foot from the Ross of Mull at . Geologically, Erraid is composed primarily of the Ross of Mull granite, part of the Caledonian igneous complex dating to approximately 420 million years ago, making it among the oldest exposed rocks in the region. This ancient pluton has endured multiple ice ages, during which glacial advances eroded the , smoothing rock surfaces and depositing debris that contributed to the island's undulating contours. Post-glacial warming allowed temperate forests to cover the area before ongoing and further sculpted the landscape into its current form. The climate of Erraid is characterized as one of the drier and sunnier locations along Scotland's west coast, benefiting from its position in the rain shadow of higher terrain on Mull. Annual rainfall averages around 1,000 mm, significantly less than more exposed coastal areas further north, while sunshine hours total approximately 1,350 per year. The island's environment supports fertile soils derived from weathered granite and enriched by marine deposits, making it suitable for small-scale farming and cultivation. Abundant seaweed resources along the shoreline provide natural fertilizers and contribute to soil health. Vast seabird colonies thrive in the coastal cliffs and stacks, supporting a rich avian ecology.

History

Prehistoric and early settlement

The earliest evidence of human activity on Erraid dates to the period around 6000 BC, when groups likely utilized the island's coastal routes as part of broader maritime mobility along the Hebridean west coast. These nomadic populations subsisted on such as fish and shellfish, supplemented by terrestrial foraging for nuts, berries, and game, establishing temporary camps rather than permanent settlements. While no confirmed shell middens have been identified on Erraid itself, the island's position between and —where well-documented Mesolithic shell middens indicate intensive shellfish exploitation—suggests potential but unverified similar sites may exist, reflecting regional patterns of coastal resource use. During the and periods, from approximately 5000 to 700 BC, Erraid saw the emergence of more settled communities, marked by woodland clearance for and the construction of foundational structures. Archaeological surveys have revealed clearance cairns—piles of stones removed to create —along with probable house foundations and a notable , indicating organized settlement and practices. Early farming techniques included the use of lazy beds for cultivation, supported by field walls, drainage ditches, and seaweed as , which leveraged the island's fertile peaty soils enriched with and its abundant resources for sustenance. A drier during this era facilitated these peaceful, small-scale communities, often interpreted as matriarchal in structure, until around 1200 BC when climatic shifts led to wetter conditions and population adjustments. The , spanning roughly 700 BC to 400 AD, brought Celtic influences from , introducing fortified architecture amid tougher environmental and social conditions due to climate deterioration and external pressures. A key feature is Dun Aoidhean, an irregular-shaped dun situated on a rocky outcrop at the northeast corner of the island, measuring about 21 m by 17 m internally and serving as a defensive lookout over Erraid Sound. Only slight remains persist, including a partial wall on the west side with rubble core and facing stones, protected naturally by sheer cliffs on the east; additional house foundations nearby suggest ongoing habitation. These developments reflect adaptation to invasions and resource scarcity in the region. In the medieval period, human presence on Erraid continued through small-scale settlement, evidenced by house foundations and possible monastic retreats featuring beehive huts, potentially linked to the influence of nearby from around 1058 to 1560 AD. These structures indicate a persistence of agricultural practices on earlier cleared lands, such as kale yards, maintaining continuity in the island's role as a modest habitation site amid broader ecclesiastical control in the .

19th-century lighthouse development

In the mid-19th century, Erraid underwent significant industrial transformation as it became the primary shore station for the construction of the Dubh Artach lighthouse on a remote rock 14 miles southwest of the island. The project was initiated by the to address the dangers posed by the Torran Rocks to shipping in the . In 1867, a was established on the hillside overlooking Erraid Sound to supply high-quality stone for the lighthouse, employing up to 96 quarrymen and stonemasons, primarily from and , along with local laborers. The quarry operations facilitated the dressing and fitting of granite blocks on the island before they were transported by to the site, with each load weighing up to 16 tons towed by the steamer Dhuheartach. The Dubh Artach lighthouse was designed by , a prominent engineer in Scotland's lighthouse-building dynasty, in collaboration with his brother David Stevenson. Construction commenced in 1867 and was completed in 1872, with the light first exhibited on November 1 of that year; the tower stands 145 feet (44 meters) high, featuring a solid base rising 64 feet above and an outer facing of quarried from Erraid, while the interior used freestone. Erraid's role extended beyond material supply, serving as the logistical base where stones were fabricated and fitted prior to shipment, supported by infrastructure including a , workshops, smithies, and cranes. This setup allowed for 62 successful landings on the rock during the 1870 season, primarily between April and October, despite challenging conditions with waves reaching 92 feet. To support ongoing operations, eight single-story cottages were constructed on Erraid between and , designed to house the families of keepers and an attending boatman. These accommodations, each with outhouses, gardens, and washhouses, primarily sheltered the eight keepers—four for Dubh Artach and four for the nearby —along with their families during rotational shifts of three weeks on duty. A disused signal station, equipped with for communication and observation, overlooked the sound to coordinate maintenance and relief efforts. Erraid functioned as a vital base for maintenance crews throughout the 's active manned service, housing multiple families until the early , underscoring its importance in the Stevenson family's engineering legacy.

20th-century changes

In the mid-20th century, the operational role of Erraid as a shore station for the Dubh Artach and lighthouses began to diminish with broader advancements in lighthouse technology across . The closed the Erraid station in 1952, relocating off-duty keepers to as helicopter access and other improvements reduced the need for on-island accommodations. This closure marked the end of active use for the signal tower, , and associated facilities, which had supported maintenance and family life since the 19th century. Following the station's abandonment, the lighthouse keepers and their families departed Erraid, leaving the island uninhabited. The Dubh Artach itself was fully automated in 1971, eliminating the need for resident keepers and further solidifying the island's transition from a bustling support base to a dormant site. With no permanent population, the cottages and quarry experienced temporary disuse, exposure to the elements without or new industrial activity. This period of vacancy persisted without significant developments until the late 1970s, representing a shift from Erraid's industrial maritime function to an interim state of quiet abandonment. Legacy structures, such as the keepers' cottages, endured in relative preservation, later enabling their adaptation for renewed purposes.

Modern community

Findhorn Foundation involvement

The Erraid community was established in 1978 when members of the , a spiritual organization originating in 1962, assumed custodianship of the island in partnership with its owners, the Van der Sluis family, following an exploratory visit by co-founder and others in 1977. A small initial group repurposed the disused 19th-century lighthouse keepers' cottages to create a space for communal living aligned with the Foundation's ethos. Under the Findhorn Foundation's oversight, the community operated as a semi-autonomous extension of its network, focusing on spiritual growth and shared responsibilities. In , it transitioned to independent governance as The Erraid Community SCIO, a registered Scottish charity (number SC054706), while retaining ties to the Foundation's principles. From its origins with just a few residents, the has evolved into a small, intimate group, typically ranging from 3 to 12 individuals, with a focus on spiritual and communal living that fosters deep interpersonal connections and with environment. Erraid functions as a remote outpost for the Foundation's core principles of co-creation with nature and inner listening, providing a secluded setting for reflection and practice. It supports short-term stays and work exchanges, allowing visitors to participate in maintenance and activities as part of their spiritual journey.

Lifestyle and sustainability

The daily life on Erraid revolves around communal tasks that foster and among the small resident group. Residents and volunteers collaborate on activities such as cooking shared meals from locally grown organic produce, maintaining the historic keepers' cottages, and tending to the island's animals and gardens. Spiritual practices, including daily group meditations, sacred singing sessions, and seasonal Celtic festival celebrations, integrate seamlessly into the routine, emphasizing harmony with nature. A key communal effort involves weekly "wood runs," where the group uses a to transport logs across the low-tide from the mainland, followed by collective cutting, splitting, and stacking to ensure a steady supply for the community's needs. Sustainability is central to Erraid's , with practices designed to minimize environmental impact while living in tune with the island's . The sources primarily from local Larch wood harvested on the nearby , which is processed on-site using chainsaws for cutting and splitting before being stacked for drying. Woodburners provide both heating for the cottages and hot water for showers, reducing reliance on external energy sources. from wood processing is repurposed efficiently: scraps and bark serve as in the organic gardens, while acts as a freshener in the toilets, exemplifying a closed-loop system where nothing is . These efforts align with broader low-impact living, including rainwater collection for drinking and growing much of the 's food in organic plots. The island's isolation presents ongoing challenges that necessitate adaptations for self-sufficiency, particularly given its tidal connection to Mull, which allows access only at or by boat. Seasonal weather, including harsh winds and rain on Scotland's remote west coast, can disrupt supply runs and daily routines, requiring residents to stockpile essentials and plan meticulously around tidal schedules. To counter these, the community prioritizes "human sustainability" through strong interpersonal bonds, such as shared during group "sharings" and mutual support in physical tasks like log splitting, which build resilience and emotional well-being. As of 2025, Erraid remains a small, evolving of approximately 6 to 10 residents and volunteers, governed as a Scottish (SCIO) under Erraid Community SCIO, dedicated to modeling . The group actively promotes these practices through educational programs, offering visitors opportunities to immerse themselves in island life via short-term stays, such as Experience Weeks or Love in Action Weeks, where participants join in tasks like wood runs and gardening to experience self-reliant, eco-conscious community dynamics firsthand.

Cultural significance

Literary references

Erraid features prominently in Robert Louis Stevenson's 1886 novel Kidnapped, where the protagonist David Balfour is shipwrecked and marooned on the island following the fictional wreck of the ship Covenant. The narrative draws on the real historical context of the 1752 Appin Murder, a pivotal event in Scottish Jacobite history, but fictionalizes the shipwreck and Balfour's ordeal to heighten the drama of isolation and survival. In the story, Balfour, believing himself abandoned, labors alone at a lime kiln on the tidal island, enduring hardship until his eventual rescue by passing islanders, a depiction that amplifies Erraid's remote and unforgiving character. The island also served as an inspirational source for Stevenson's 1882 short story "The Merry Men," which is set on the fictional Hebridean isle of Eilean Aros, modeled directly after Erraid's stormy seas and perilous waters. The tale explores themes of isolation, , and the destructive power of the ocean—personified as the "Merry Men" waves—reflecting the hazardous environment around Erraid that claimed many ships historically. This atmospheric portrayal underscores the island's role in evoking the wild, untamed spirit of the in 19th-century literature. Stevenson's intimate knowledge of Erraid stemmed from his brief involvement in the family lighthouse engineering business, where he assisted his father, Thomas Stevenson, during the construction of the Dubh Artach Lighthouse in the late 1860s and early 1870s; Erraid functioned as the shore station for this project, located about 15 miles offshore. Thomas, a renowned engineer, designed the robust 145-foot tower to withstand the fierce Atlantic gales near the island, and young Robert's visits exposed him to the site's tidal isolation and rugged isolation, elements he later amplified in his narratives to convey profound solitude and peril. These personal experiences, combined with the Stevenson family's legacy in illuminating Scotland's treacherous coasts, infused his literary depictions of Erraid with authentic detail and emotional depth.

Media and contemporary culture

Erraid has gained visibility in contemporary media through its portrayal as a remote, self-sustaining community tied to the . In a episode of the Channel 5 series Ben Fogle: New Lives in the Wild (Season 15, Episode 4), presenter visits the island and meets Philip, a former social care worker who serves as its custodian, highlighting the isolation, communal lifestyle, and personal transformation experienced by residents. Documentaries and online content further depict daily life on Erraid, emphasizing its spiritual and ecological dimensions. A 2021 YouTube video produced by the , titled "Living on the Isle of Erraid," explores the routines of the small resident group, including and tidal living over 40 years of community stewardship. More recent works include a 2023 Findhorn blog post, "Embracing Solitude on the Isle of Erraid," featuring a video that captures a visitor's immersion in the island's raw, contemplative environment. Additionally, a January 2025 Findhorn Foundation blog entry, "Welcome to the Embrace of the Isle of Erraid," by Education Director , describes the island as a "rugged jewel" of natural beauty and spiritual renewal, invoking its mystical allure akin to Celtic heritage. The island attracts tourists seeking spiritual experiences and outdoor pursuits, with access promoted through guided visits and self-guided hikes. It draws spiritual seekers interested in eco-communal living, as evidenced by the Foundation's offerings for week-long stays involving community tasks like gardening and cooking to foster reconnection with nature. Hikers access Erraid via a 10-minute walk from Knockvologan on Mull during , though reviews caution about rocky, steep paths and unpredictable weather. As of 2025, rates the Isle of Erraid at 4.8 out of 5 based on 25 reviews, praising its peaceful, rugged scenery and magical atmosphere while noting the need for tide awareness. In modern culture, Erraid symbolizes a secluded eco-spiritual haven amid broader conversations on Hebridean identity and environmental . Its portrayal underscores themes of resilience and , reflecting the island's role in discussions of off-grid living and cultural preservation in Scotland's . This contemporary resonance builds on its earlier literary fame from Robert Louis Stevenson's works, positioning Erraid as a timeless emblem of and .

References

  1. https://www.scottish-places.info/features/featurefirst1517.html
  2. https://www.sundaypost.com/fp/isle-of-erraid-scotland/
  3. https://romhc.org.uk/discover-the-ross/ancient-history/discovering-a-history-of-erraid/
  4. https://mull-historical-society.co.uk/famous-visitors/robert-louis-stevenson/
  5. https://www.findhorn.org/blog/passing-on-the-torch-for-erraid
  6. https://erraid.uk/findhorns-farewell-gratitude-and-transition/
  7. https://www.findhorn.org/blog/new-beginnings-for-findhorn-foundation-scio-a-letter-from-the-new-trustees
  8. https://erraid.uk/a-new-chapter-for-erraid/
  9. https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/mull/erraid.shtml
  10. https://visitmull.uk/listing/knockvologan-beach/
  11. https://www.iona-bed-breakfast-mull.com/attractions/walks-mull/isle-of-erraid/
  12. https://www.pbo.co.uk/cruising/kintyre-to-the-treshnish-western-isles-17078
  13. https://www.yachtingworld.com/uncategorized/scotlands-stunning-sailing-5257
  14. https://www.yachtingmonthly.com/cruising-guides/the-best-literary-locations-to-explore-by-boat-80901
  15. https://www.scottish-places.info/features/featurefirst14915.html
  16. https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=75960
  17. https://visitmullandiona.co.uk/guides/geology/
  18. https://www.ardoranhouse.co.uk/the-fascinating-geology-of-mull-and-iona/
  19. https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/binaries/content/assets/metofficegovuk/pdf/weather/learn-about/weather/regional-climates/western-scotland_-climate-met-office.pdf
  20. https://erraid.uk/the-island/
  21. https://journals.socantscot.org/index.php/psas/article/download/9348/9316/9301
  22. https://mull-historical-society.co.uk/daily-life/castles-fortifications/duns/dun-aiodhean-erraid/
  23. https://romhc.org.uk/discover-the-ross/social-history/the-story-behind-the-erraid-lighthouse-keepers-cottages/
  24. https://www.nlb.org.uk/lighthouses/dubh-artach/
  25. http://www.rampantscotland.com/lighthouses/lighthouses_dubh_artach.htm
  26. https://mull-historical-society.co.uk/agricultural-industrial-sites-2/lighthouses-sue/lighthouses-and-shore-bases-historically-connected-with-mull/
  27. https://www.ibiblio.org/lighthouse/sctw.htm
  28. https://lighthouseaccommodation.co.uk/listings/erraid/
  29. https://www.oscr.org.uk/about-charities/search-the-register/charity-details?number=SC054706
  30. https://celebratingoneincrediblefamily.org/erraid-is-an-island
  31. https://www.findhorn.org/blog/my-life-on-erraid
  32. https://www.findhorn.org/blog/living-on-the-isle-of-erraid
  33. https://www.findhorn.org/blog/update-volunteers-for-the-isle-of-erraid
  34. https://robert-louis-stevenson.org/works/kidnapped-1886/
  35. https://robert-louis-stevenson.org/lighthouses/
  36. https://www.channel5.com/ben-fogle-new-lives-in-the-wild/season-15/episode-4
  37. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt15426818/
  38. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5STded5LtQg
  39. https://www.findhorn.org/blog/embracing-solitude-on-the-isle-of-erraid
  40. https://www.findhorn.org/blog/welcome-to-the-embrace-of-the-isle-of-erraid
  41. https://erraid.uk/stay-with-us/
  42. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g186584-d1792513-Reviews-Isle_of_Erraid-Isle_of_Mull_The_Hebrides_Scotland.html
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