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Agasthya Mala (or Agasthiyarkoodam) is one of the peaks of the Agathiyarmalai Biosphere Reserve in the Western Ghats that lies between the districts of Tirunelveli District of Tamilnadu and Thiruvananthapuram District district of Kerala, India.[2] This peak is specifically located in the Thiruvananthapuram district of Kerala, near the Tamil Nadu border. It is 1,868-metres (6,129 ft) tall.[citation needed]. The perennial Thamirabarani River originates from the eastern side of the range and flows into the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu. The rivers flowing westwards through the district of Thiruvananthapuram in Kerala are the Karamana River and the Neyyar river.

Key Information

Agastyaarkoodam is a major trekking spot in the southern end of the Western Ghats. It is also considered as a pilgrimage spot for devotees of the Hindu sage Agastya, who is considered to be one of the seven rishis (Saptarishi) of Hindu Puranas. In Tamil traditions, Agastya is considered as the father of the Tamil language and the compiler of the first Tamil grammar called Agattiyam or Akattiyam.[3] There is a small stone statue of Agathiyar at the top of the peak where one can offer flowers as offerings to the mystical sage considered as a “Chiranjeevi” which means immortal.

Agasthyamala Biosphere Reserve is among 20 new sites added by UNESCO to its World Network of Biosphere Reserves in March 2016. The International Co-ordinating Council added the new sites during a two-day meeting on 19 March 2016 in Lima, bringing the total number of biosphere reserves to 669 sites in 120 countries, including 16 transboundary sites. The biosphere reserve includes close to 300 rare bird species and more than 200 medicinal plants endemic to this region.[4]

Name

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Named after the sage Agastya, the official Survey of India name for the mountain is Agastya Mala (Malayalam: അഗസ്ത്യ മല, lit. Mount Agastya).

The mountain is also known as Agastyarkoodam (Malayalam: അഗസ്ത്യകൂടം, lit. the abode of Agastya) and Agastya Malai (Tamil: அகத்தியமலை, lit. Agastya Hill).

Geography

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Agasthya malai is 32 km from Neyyar Dam and 22 km from Bonacaud, near Vithura & Ponmudi. The major city and airport nearest to Agastyaarkoodam is Thiruvananthapuram and its Thiruvananthapuram International Airport, around 61 km away. The nearest railway stations are Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala and Ambasamudram, Tirunelveli District, Tamil Nadu. The trekking path, nearly 22 km, is from Bonacaud.[citation needed]

Kalakkad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve is part of the Agastyaarkoodam range. Part of the peak can be seen from the Upper Kodayar region.

A view of the Agasthyamalai range from Upper Kodayar

Other major rivers which originate from the mountain are the Karamana River, which flows through the Thiruvananthapuram district and is the major source of drinking water to the city, and the Neyyar River (also in the Thiruvananthapuram district).[citation needed]

Trekking routes

[edit]
Athirumala Base Station in Agastya Mala

The peak of Agastyaarkoodam[5] can be reached only by trekking up to it. Trekking[6] is allowed based on strict guidelines and is open to pilgrims during January to mid-March. Trekking passes are issued by Kerala Forest Department from the district office at Trivandrum.[7][8] The trekking route starts from Bonacaud. The route "Neyyar-Agasthyakoodam" is not open to the public.

Vehicles reach only till Bonacaud which is around 50 km from Thiruvananthapuram. The trek to the peak is 20 km long from Bonacaud and requires two days. The first part of the trek can be started from the base station Bonacaud in the early morning and is 14 km through the forest to the camp. Elephants and wild bulls are in abundance in this part, especially in the evenings. The final part i.e. the 6 km long trek can be done from the camp and crossing the border enters Tamil Nadu to reach the top of Agathyakoodam mountain on the second day.

An old rock broken apart by nature in Agasthyamala before reaching Agasthya muni idol.
Agasthyakoodam Trek Route

Vegetation

[edit]

The lower elevations of this peak are known for their abundance of rare herbs and medicinal plants. Around 2,000 medicinal plants used in Ayurvedic treatments are found here. Europeans, particularly those from England, were the first to establish tea gardens around the base stations of the mountain at Brimore, Bonacaud, and Ponmudi.

The Agasthyamala Biosphere Reserve harbours rare flora and fauna. Tourists are permitted to the area only with permission from the forest department of Kerala. Annual trekking passes to the peak are issued from the forest department during January–February only.

Murti of Agasthya Muni at the top of Agasthyamalai hill

Manjolai Hills

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Between elevations ranging from 1000 to 1500 metres, the Manjolai area is set deep within the Western Ghats within the Kalakkad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve in the Tirunelveli District. Located on top of the Manimuthar Dam and the Manimuthar Water Falls, the Manjolai area has tea plantations, small settlements around the tea plantations, Upper Kodaiyar Dam, and a windy view point called Kuthiravetti.

The tea plantations and the whole of Manjolai Estates are operated by the Bombay Burmah Trading Corporation Ltd on forest lands leased by the singampatti zamin. There are three tea estates in the Manjolai area — Manjolai Estate, Manimutharu Estate, and Oothu Estate. The estates are on elevations ranging between 2,300 and 4,200 feet (701 and 1,280 m). The estates, road, and the settlements in the Manjolai area are managed by the Bombay Burmah Trading Corporation Ltd.

Former status prohibiting women

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Prior to November 2018, women were forbidden to climb Agastyaarkoodam by the local Kani tribe. After a court ruling which removed the prohibition, a woman, Dhanya Sanal — an Indian Information Service officer — reached the peak in 2019, becoming the first woman known to make the climb. Since the change in the law, more than 100 other women have registered for a license to make the climb.[9]

See also

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References

[edit]
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Agastya Mala

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Agastya Mala, also known as Agasthyakoodam or Agasthyamala, is a mountain peak rising to 1,868 meters in the southern of , , situated in the near the border. It serves as the highest point in the , a UNESCO-designated spanning tropical forests renowned for harboring over 2,250 of higher , including more than 400 endemics, alongside rare medicinal herbs such as Trichopus zeylanicus (Arogyapacha). The peak's conical form and isolation contribute to its unique , supporting diverse fauna like , woodpeckers, and endangered mammals amid a landscape of grasslands, streams, and forests. Culturally, Agastya Mala holds significance in Hindu tradition as the site of meditation for the Vedic sage , with pilgrims associating the peak's summit—marked by a small idol—with his spiritual legacy, though access remains regulated to preserve ecological integrity. Trekking to the summit, a strenuous 24-kilometer round trip typically spanning two days, is permitted only from December to March, requiring forest department passes, and excludes women and children under 14 to minimize environmental impact and ensure safety on the leech-infested, steep trails. The reserve's status underscores its role in conserving endemic species amid threats from climate variability and human encroachment, with strict quotas limiting daily trekkers to protect fragile habitats.

Etymology and Mythology

Origins of the Name

The name Agastya Mala combines the Sanskrit-derived proper name , referring to a Vedic sage, with mala, the and Tamil term for "mountain" or "hill," yielding a of "Agastya's ." The local appellation Agasthyakoodam appends koodam, denoting "peak," "crest," or "dome," to the sage's name, emphasizing the summit. This nomenclature originates in longstanding Hindu traditions identifying the peak as linked to the sage, without documented historical records predating mythological accounts. Etymological proposals for itself vary, with a prevalent interpretation deriving it from roots a-ga ("mountain") and gam ("to move" or "go"), connoting "mountain-mover," consistent with legendary feats like compelling the to bow. Alternative derivations suggest "thrower of mountains" from aga and stya (related to "throw" or "send"), or roots implying "unyielding" or "effulgent." These remain speculative, rooted in folk etymologies from texts like the , lacking consensus among linguists.

Association with Sage Agastya

Agastya Mala, also known as Agasthyakoodam, derives its name from the revered Hindu sage Agastya, one of the Saptarishis, and is regarded as a sacred site linked to his legendary activities in southern . According to Hindu tradition, the peak is where Sage Agastya performed intense meditation and tapasya, contributing to the propagation of Vedic knowledge southward. A prominent legend recounts that the earth tilted southward due to the concentration of sages in the northern ; the gods requested to migrate south to restore cosmic balance, leading him to settle at this peak. There, he is believed to have harnessed his yogic powers to maintain equilibrium and disseminated spiritual wisdom, including influences on Dravidian culture and the origins of the . The summit features a small stone idol of , where pilgrims offer flowers and perform rituals, viewing him as a —an immortal sage. Ancient texts and oral traditions associate the sage's presence with the peak's sanctity, positioning it as a pilgrimage destination for devotees seeking his blessings for and , though access is restricted to preserve the environment. This mythological connection underscores Agastya's role as a bridge between northern Vedic traditions and southern spiritual practices, without empirical verification of historical events.

Geography and Geology

Location and Topography

Agastya Mala, commonly referred to as Agasthyakoodam, is positioned in the southern of , spanning the in and bordering . It lies within the and constitutes a key feature of the , which extends across approximately 3,500 square kilometers in the southernmost end of the . The peak's coordinates are approximately 8°48′13″N 77°11′53″E. Rising to an elevation of 1,868 meters above , Agastya Mala ranks as the second-highest peak in , following at 2,695 meters. The is dominated by a sharply conical with steep slopes, typical of the dissected plateau landscape of the southern , where elevations range from coastal plains to over 1,800 meters. Surrounding the peak are rugged ridges, deep valleys, and a mosaic of montane evergreen forests interspersed with grasslands, shaped by orographic rainfall and tectonic uplift over millions of years. This terrain facilitates perennial streams and contributes to the region's hydrological significance, including the origins of rivers like the Tamiraparani.

Geological Features

Agastya Mala forms part of the southern escarpment, characterized by metamorphic rocks of the Peninsular Shield, primarily granulite-facies assemblages including charnockites and khondalites. Charnockites, orthopyroxene-bearing granitic gneisses, dominate the in the Agasthyamalai sub-cluster, reflecting high-grade under dry conditions at depths corresponding to lower crustal levels. These rocks exhibit massive to foliated textures, with , , and as key minerals, and represent some of the oldest exposed crustal remnants in the region, dating to 550–2500 million years ago. The geological formation of Agastya Mala relates to the tectonic evolution of the and adjacent granulite terrains, where massifs preserve Archaean to protoliths modified during Grenvillian around 1.0–1.3 billion years ago. Incipient charnockitization, involving fluid-mediated reactions such as brine infiltration, has been documented in nearby exposures, contributing to the patchy orthopyroxene development within gneissic hosts. The peak's rugged topography arises from fault-controlled morphology, with differential erosion of resistant s forming steep cliffs and inselbergs, while more weathered gneisses erode to valleys. Exposed rock faces in the area display features, including exfoliation and joint-controlled fracturing, exposing joints that facilitate and further breakdown of the ancient . The charnockite-dominated terrain influences local , with impermeable layers promoting and seasonal streams dissecting the slopes. No significant mineralization or intrusive bodies are prominently associated with the peak itself, though the broader host accessory garnet-sillimanite gneisses and quartzites.

Biodiversity and Ecology

Flora and Medicinal Plants

The , encompassing Agastya Mala, supports a diverse characterized by high , with over 2,000 of flowering documented across its forests, grasslands, and riparian zones. This includes numerous orchids, ferns, and angiosperms adapted to the montane tropical climate, many of which are restricted to the southern . Medicinal plants form a significant component of this flora, with approximately 2,000 varieties identified, at least 50 of which are rare or endangered and valued in traditional Ayurvedic practices for their therapeutic properties. Key species include Trichopus zeylanicus (Arogyapacha), a tuberous endemic to the region and prized by indigenous communities such as the Kani tribe for its rejuvenating and adaptogenic effects, attributed to compounds like and that enhance stamina and combat fatigue. Another notable plant is Lobelia nicotianifolia, a wild relative containing alkaloids used historically for respiratory ailments and as an emetic, though its collection is regulated due to overexploitation risks. Rare endemics such as those yielding , an with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, underscore the area's pharmacological potential; these shrubs are harvested sustainably under management to prevent depletion. Conservation efforts prioritize in situ propagation of these , given their vulnerability to and shifts, with studies confirming their role in biodiversity hotspots where exceeds 40% for vascular plants.

Fauna

The Agasthyamala Biosphere Reserve, which includes Agastya Mala, supports 79 mammal species, of which 20 are endemic. Key mammals include the endangered (Macaca silenus), (Nilgiritragus hylocrius), (Panthera tigris tigris), (Elephas maximus indicus), (Bos gaurus), Nilgiri marten (Martes gwatkinsii), and (Melursus ursinus). These species inhabit diverse elevations, from montane forests to grasslands, with large herbivores like and shaping vegetation through browsing and trampling. Avifauna comprises 337 bird species, including 20 endemics restricted to the . Endemic species such as the broad-tailed grassbird (Schoenicola platyurus) and Nilgiri wood-pigeon (Columba elphinstonii) are documented, alongside broader endemics like the (Harpactes fasciatus). Resident and migrant populations utilize the reserve's varied habitats, including riparian zones and canopy layers, for breeding and foraging. Reptiles total 88 species, with 45 endemics, including geckos from families like and snakes such as the endemic Rhinophis species. Amphibians number 45 species, 41 endemic, predominantly stream-breeding frogs adapted to the humid, forested microhabitats of the hills. Fish diversity includes 59 species, 37 endemic, mainly in rivers and wetlands supporting the aquatic . High endemism reflects the reserve's isolation as a southern refugium, though habitat fragmentation threatens viability for specialized taxa.

Conservation Efforts and Challenges

The Agasthyamala Biosphere Reserve, which includes Agastya Mala, implements zoned protection with a core area strictly conserved for preservation, while buffer zones allow limited , , and under regulatory oversight. This structure supports habitat restoration, anti-poaching patrols, and restrictions on grazing, timber extraction, and firewood collection to mitigate human impacts. Community-led initiatives have promoted native regeneration and sustainable practices among local tribes, enhancing overall resilience. UNESCO's inclusion of the reserve in its in March 2016 recognized these efforts in safeguarding endemic flora and fauna amid the ' hotspot status. Daily trekking permits to Agastya Mala are capped at 100 to control visitor numbers, with access confined to a roughly 50-day seasonal window from mid-January to March, alongside mandates prohibiting plastics, open fires, and off-trail movement. In 2025, authorities initiated a carrying capacity assessment and safety audit for the peak to refine protocols against overuse. Persistent challenges include from expanding tourism infrastructure and plantations, which have accelerated deforestation and threatened endemic amphibians like frogs in the southern . Annual pilgrimages to the summit strain resources, complicating enforcement of conservation amid cultural demands, while surveys in 2025 revealed ongoing non-forestry encroachments violating the Forest Conservation Act of 1980. Balancing socio-economic needs of indigenous communities with strict protections remains critical, as unchecked human activities risk undermining the reserve's biogeographical integrity.

Access and Trekking

Routes and Permits

The primary trekking route to Agastya Mala commences at the Bonacaud forest checkpost in , , spanning approximately 20 kilometers one way through dense forests of the Agasthyamalai Reserve. The trail typically unfolds over two days, beginning with a moderate ascent to Athirumala base camp after about 6 kilometers, where trekkers camp overnight, followed by a steeper 14-kilometer section crossing streams like Meenmutty and culminating in a rocky final climb to the 1,868-meter . This path demands due to its elevation gain of over 1,500 meters and challenging terrain, including leech-infested areas during monsoons, though the route is officially closed outside the dry season. Access to Agastya Mala is strictly regulated by the Kerala Forest Department to preserve the ecologically sensitive area, with trekking permitted only from the second week of to mid-March each year, limited to roughly 45 days. Permits, capped at 100 per day, must be booked online via the official portal or Kerala Forest Department channels, often selling out within minutes of release on the first day of booking. As of 2023, the fee stands at INR 1,800 per person, covering up to five trekkers per pass, and requires submission of a medical fitness certificate; prior approval from the Wildlife Warden's office in may also be necessary for group entries. Unauthorized attempts are prohibited, with forest officials enforcing checkpoints and potential fines for violations.

Seasonal Regulations

The trekking access to Agastya Mala, also known as Agasthyakoodam, is regulated seasonally by the Kerala Forest Department to mitigate risks from adverse weather and protect the reserve's fragile ecosystem. The peak is open exclusively from mid-January to late March each year, spanning approximately 45 days, during which daily visitor numbers are capped at 100 through limited permits issued via the Kerala Forest Development Corporation (KFDC). Outside this window, the trails are closed to prevent accidents from heavy rains, which cause landslides, flooding, and trail erosion in the region from June to September. Permit bookings open online in advance, typically filling within hours due to high demand, and require adherence to guidelines such as fitness certifications and prohibitions on children under 14 years old. Exact dates vary annually based on weather forecasts and administrative directives; for instance, the 2023 season ran from January 16 to February 15, while 2024 extended from January 24 to March 2. These restrictions stem from the area's status as a UNESCO-recognized biodiversity hotspot, where unregulated access during wet seasons could exacerbate habitat degradation and endanger rare species. Violations of seasonal closures are enforced through patrols and fines, as unauthorized entry poses threats to both trekkers and the sacred site's integrity, historically linked to traditions that align with drier months for safer ascents. Preparatory measures, including maintenance, are conducted prior to opening to address post-monsoon damage, ensuring the route's 28-32 km round-trip remains viable only under controlled conditions.

Cultural and Religious Importance

Pilgrimage Traditions

Agasthyakoodam holds profound religious significance as a pilgrimage destination for Hindu devotees venerating , one of the Saptarishis credited in with meditating on the peak and disseminating Vedic knowledge southward. Legends describe 's here, where he is said to have gathered rare medicinal herbs, symbolizing the mountain's role in spiritual purification and herbal wisdom. The summit features an idol of the sage, installed for , drawing pilgrims who view the ascent as an act of devotion mirroring Agastya's own arduous journey to balance cosmic forces. The pilgrimage tradition emphasizes physical endurance and reverence, with trekkers—historically limited to men until recent changes—embarking on a multi-day journey from base camps like or Athirimala, covering approximately 28 kilometers one way through dense forests. At the peak, devotees traditionally offer simple prayers or prostrations before the idol, though elaborate rituals such as poojas have been curtailed since the 1990s to preserve the reserve's ecology. This restraint reflects a blend of ancient with modern conservation, ensuring the site's sanctity endures amid growing visitor numbers, which peaked at around 4,200 permits in early seasons. Access for pilgrimage is strictly seasonal, opening annually from late to early under Kerala Forest Department oversight, with daily quotas to mitigate ecological strain—typically 100-150 trekkers per group. Permits require online booking, underscoring the tradition's evolution from unstructured ascents to regulated devotion, prioritizing the mountain's alongside its religious heritage.

Historical Restrictions on Entry

The summit of Agastya Mala, revered as the abode of the Hindu sage , was historically inaccessible to women trekkers under policies enforced by the Kerala Forest Department, which did not issue permits for them to proceed beyond base camp despite allowing access up to that point. This prohibition, in place for decades leading up to 2018, stemmed from opposition by the indigenous Kani tribal community, who invoked age-old customs associating the peak's sanctity with male-only pilgrimage to avoid disturbing the sage's ascetic domain. Entry was further limited by age restrictions, barring children under 14 years due to the trek's physical demands, including a 22-km uphill path with steep inclines and potential hazards like encounters. Daily visitor quotas capped at 100 persons, enforced through mandatory permits during the restricted trekking window of to , aligned with drier weather and traditional pilgrimage timing to minimize ecological disruption in the reserve. While no codified ancient edict explicitly banned women—drawing parallels to purity taboos in other South Indian shrines like Sabarimala—the combined influence of tribal lore and administrative caution perpetuated exclusion, with forest officials occasionally rationalizing it on safety grounds amid the trail's isolation and lack of facilities. Devotees historically performed self-pujas at the summit shrine, a practice later curtailed for all genders by to protect the site's fragility, but entry controls predated formal conservation designations like the biosphere reserve status.

Controversies and Developments

Women Entry Prohibition and Its Lifting

The prohibition on women ascending Agasthyakoodam, the peak of Agastya Mala, stemmed from longstanding religious customs associating the site with Sage Agastya, revered as a brahmachari (celibate ascetic) who meditated there. Local traditions, upheld by the Kani tribal community and Hindu pilgrims, restricted women—particularly those of menstruating age—from proceeding beyond Athirumala base camp to the summit, viewing the peak as a male-only sacred space akin to restrictions at sites like Sabarimala. Although forest department guidelines nominally permitted physically fit women over 14 years to participate in the annual trek, in practice, permits were not issued for full ascents, enforcing an unofficial gender-based exclusion that dated back to the formal opening of regulated trekking in the 1990s. On November 30, 2018, the , in a petition filed by women's groups, ruled that no gender-based restrictions could be imposed on trekking to the 1,868-meter peak, emphasizing equality under Article 14 of the Indian Constitution and rejecting customary barriers as unconstitutional in a biosphere reserve managed by the state. Justice A. Muhamed Mustaque observed that the site's ecological and administrative status overrode religious exclusivity claims, directing the forest department to issue permits without discrimination. The ruling echoed the Supreme Court's concurrent Sabarimala verdict, prompting the government to comply by opening online registrations for women on January 5, 2019, ahead of the trekking season commencing January 26. K. Dhanya Sanal, a 38-year-old defence ministry spokesperson, became the first woman to successfully summit Agasthyakoodam on 15, 2019, after commencing the 22-kilometer trek from base on January 14, navigating steep terrain and leech-infested paths under forest escort. Her ascent, conducted amid protests from Kani tribesmen citing cultural desecration, marked the practical lifting of the prohibition, with subsequent seasons seeing increasing female participation—by 2024, the fifth year post-ruling, women formed a notable portion of the roughly 10,000 annual trekkers despite persistent local opposition rooted in tradition rather than law. The forest department maintained safety protocols, including fitness requirements and seasonal limits ( to mid-May), but reported no formal reinstatement of restrictions. The Agasthyamalai Reserve, encompassing Agastya Mala, has faced encroachments primarily through illegal clearance of forest lands for commercial plantations, including tea, coffee, and rubber cultivation, particularly in Tamil Nadu's Kalakad-Mundanthurai Reserve (KMTR) portion. These activities have involved the conversion of 'Singampatti Zamin' forest lands, historically classified as reserved forests, leading to and threats to endemic species and corridors within the UNESCO-designated reserve. In response to petitions highlighting these violations, the , in the case A. John Kennedy v. State of (judgment dated March 24, 2025), examined claims of non-forestry activities and encroachments that undermine the reserve's ecological integrity. The Court noted that significant encroachments stem from historical land grants or leases misused for agriculture, contravening the , and the Wildlife Protection Act, 1972. On April 4, 2025, the directed the Central Empowered Committee (CEC) to undertake a time-bound survey of the Agasthyamalai landscape, including core forest zones around Agastya Mala, to delineate encroached areas, verify compliance with wildlife laws, and recommend eviction or regularization measures where applicable. This probe emphasizes protecting tiger habitats and biodiversity hotspots, with the CEC required to submit a factual report on encroachments, mining residues, and unauthorized diversions within the biosphere reserve's 3,500 square kilometers spanning and . The order underscores the reserve's status under UNESCO's Man and Programme, prioritizing empirical delineation over disputed claims of traditional rights.

Adjacent Areas

Manjolai Hills

Manjolai Hills lie in the of , forming the eastern foothills of the Agasthyamalai range adjacent to Agastya Mala peak, at elevations ranging from 1,000 to 1,500 meters above . Part of the (KMTR), the hills serve as a key catchment area for the , featuring dense forests, perennial streams, and cascading waterfalls that contribute to the hydrological and ecological connectivity with the higher Agastya Mala slopes. The region hosts historic tea plantations, initiated in the 1920s under the Singampatti estate and later managed by the across estates like Manjolai, Kakkachi, and Nalumukku, covering over 2,000 hectares at altitudes of 700 to 1,300 meters. These plantations, nestled amid hotspots, have supported endemic plant species and , including and tigers, while facing pressures from human-wildlife conflict and reserve protections. In 2024, the halted operations at the Manjolai estates following their designation as core zones of KMTR within the , prompting government plans for worker rehabilitation and reafforestation to restore natural habitats linking to Agastya Mala's montane ecosystems. Access remains limited, with vehicular restrictions beyond to preserve the area's role in conserving southern endemics, such as rare orchids and medicinal herbs documented in nearby Agastya Mala treks.

References

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