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Barquillo
Barquillos being sold in the fiesta of San Isidro Labrador in Madrid
Alternative namesBiscuit roll, crispy biscuit roll, crisp biscuit roll, cookie roll, love letter
TypeBiscuit
Place of origin Spain
VariationsBarquiron, Cuchuflí
  •   Media: Barquillo

Barquillo is a crispy rolled wafer pastry originating in Spain. It is made from the basic cookie ingredients of flour, sugar, egg whites and butter rolled out thinly and then shaped into a hollow cylinder or a cone. It was traditionally sold by roadside vendors known as barquilleros who carried a characteristic red roulette tin (the ruleta de barquillero). It was introduced to Latin America and the Philippines during colonial times. In Spain and former Spanish colonies, barquillos are commonly regarded as a type of Christmas cookie. It is also popular during various fiestas. It spread to neighboring countries and today is extremely popular in East and Southeast Asian countries.[1][2][3]

Names

[edit]
A monument to Pepe Cortés, a barquillero in Ponferrada, Spain

The Spanish name barquillo means "little boat". It is derived from the ancient tradition of heating the biscuits in convex or boat-shaped molds. Barquillos are also known by a variety of names. In English it is also known as biscuit roll, cookie roll, crispy biscuit roll, egg roll, crisp biscuit roll, or love letter. The Chinese name for this snack, "蛋卷", can be directly translated into English as "egg roll". However, the food item known in the West as egg roll is very different.

Description

[edit]
Vendor of barquillos in Madrid. Note the ruleta beside him.

Barquillos are thin wafers made from flour, sugar, egg whites and butter that is rolled into the shape of a long hollow tube or a cone. They can also be sold simply folded over twice in a fan shape. In Spain, it was traditionally sold by roaming roadside vendors known as "barquilleros" (or "barquilleras") during festive events. In Madrid, barquilleros are particularly associated with the fiesta of San Isidro Labrador, where the vendors typically dress in castizo (chulapo) attire.[4]

Barquilleros carry a characteristic red tin known as the ruleta de barquillero which has a roulette spinner at the top. Buying barquillos typically involve a small game, where the buyer pays to spin the roulette. Depending on where the ticker lands, the buyer can either have one or two barquillos for the same price. The buyer can also pay a slightly larger amount to continue spinning the roulette and getting barquillos until it lands on one of the four golden markers.[3]

The tradition of barquilleros almost became extinct during the dictatorship of Francisco Franco.[3] Today, barquillos are most popular in Asia which has a larger population than Spain.[1]

Barquillos are traditionally eaten plain. Modern versions, however, can flavor it with ingredients including vanilla, cinnamon, grated coconut, and lemon juice. Barquillos are also commonly dipped or coated in milk chocolate or have a chocolate center.[4] Due to their similarity to ice cream cones, they are also commonly sold as containers for frozen treats.[3]

Similar recipes to barquillos also exist in other countries in Europe, like the parizske pecivo of Czechoslovakia, the pirouettes of France, and krumkake of Norway. Flat versions are known as wafle in Poland, goro in Norway, and pizzelle in Italy, among others.[5]

By region

[edit]

Latin America

[edit]

In Argentina and Chile, cylindrical barquillos filled with dulce de leche, chocolate, or other sweet fillings are known as cuchuflís (Chile) or cubanitos (Argentina).[6]

Asia

[edit]

Barquillos in the Philippines lack the grid-pattern of traditional Spanish barquillos. They are thinner and are usually rolled into elongated cylindrical shapes.[7] Philippine barquillos are most strongly associated with the city of Iloilo, particularly to the Deocampo bakery in the district of Jaro, which has been commercially mass-producing barquillos since 1896.[8]

A notable variant of barquillo is the Filipino barquiron (also spelled barqueron), which are barquillos filled with polvorón and crushed peanuts, cashew nuts, or pili nuts. It originates from the city of Iloilo.[9] Other variants of Philippine barquillos include those flavored with ube, pandan leaves, and carrots, which are bright purple, green, and orange in color, respectively.[10]

In Hong Kong, biscuit rolls are made of wheat flour, butter, egg, sugar, and vanilla flavour.[11]

[edit]
  • A ruleta de barquillero from Madrid
    A ruleta de barquillero from Madrid
  • Flan con helado, a Spanish dessert with a barquillo
    Flan con helado, a Spanish dessert with a barquillo
  • Barquillos and cuchuflís from Chile
    Barquillos and cuchuflís from Chile
  • Filipino barquillos
    Filipino barquillos
  • Filipino chocolate-filled barquillos
    Filipino chocolate-filled barquillos
  • A syrup sponge pudding dessert with a biscuit roll from England
    A syrup sponge pudding dessert with a biscuit roll from England
  • Hong Kong love letters are commonly sold in tin cans
    Hong Kong love letters are commonly sold in tin cans

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Barquillo

View on Grokipedia
from Grokipedia
Barquillo is a thin, crispy rolled of Spanish origin, typically made from a simple batter consisting of , , egg whites, and , which is baked between heated molds to create delicate, cylindrical cookies often enjoyed plain or filled with creams and chocolates. The name "barquillo," meaning "little boat" in Spanish, derives from the traditional boat-shaped molds used in its preparation, a technique that has been employed since at least the , though its roots may trace back further to early Christian culinary practices in . Similar rolled wafer pastries exist in other European countries, such as pirouettes in and in . Historically, barquillos gained prominence as a in during the late , when vendors known as barquilleros began selling them via a distinctive wheel mechanism housed in large metal tins, adding an element of chance and entertainment to the purchase—customers would spin the wheel to determine the number of wafers received. This tradition, influenced by French street vending practices from the , became especially popular among soldiers and beachgoers, but it has largely faded, with only a handful of family-run operations remaining as of 2020 due to economic pressures and the lack of successors. Beyond , barquillos spread to former colonies such as the and through Spanish colonial influence, where they evolved into beloved local treats, often produced artisanally or commercially with variations like chocolate coatings or nut fillings, and associated with festive occasions including and religious fiestas.

Etymology

Meaning and Origin of the Name

The word barquillo derives from the Spanish term barco, meaning "," combined with the suffix -illo, resulting in a of "little ." This etymology references the boat-shaped molds traditionally used in its preparation, which give the wafer a boat-like or convex shape. According to the by the Real Academia Española, the name stems from this of barco owing to the wafer's original boat-like or convex shape during preparation. In Spanish culinary tradition, barquillo emerged as a descriptive term for thin, rolled wafers, with documented usage appearing in repostería contexts by the 16th and 17th centuries. These early references describe the pastry as a light, unleavened sheet often formed using specialized tools that imparted its characteristic shape, distinguishing it from flat precursors like obleas. By the 17th century, the term was commonly associated with cylindrical rolls produced in convents and for noble tables, where barquillos were enjoyed dipped in wine.

Alternative Names

Barquillo, the traditional Spanish rolled , is known by various alternative names in English-speaking contexts, including roll, roll, and rolled , reflecting its crisp, cylindrical form made from thin . These terms emphasize its -like texture and , distinguishing it from flat wafers. In some cases, it is also referred to as a crisp roll or simply roll in baking terminology. In , it is known as "neulas." In Chinese culinary traditions, barquillo-like rolled wafers are commonly called "" or 蛋卷 (dàn juǎn), a name that highlights the inclusion of eggs in the batter, though this differs markedly from the savory, fried known in Western . The term 香酥蛋卷 (xiāng sū dàn juǎn) is sometimes used to specify the fragrant, crispy variety. Across European baking, similar rolled wafers are termed pirouettes, particularly in French-influenced recipes, where the name evokes the spun shape of a ballet pirouette and shares the same thin, rolled preparation as barquillo. In Southeast Asian cultures, especially in and , the equivalent is often called or kuih kapit, a festive treat rolled from thin batter and associated with holidays like .

Description

Ingredients and Composition

Barquillo, a thin rolled wafer pastry, is fundamentally composed of four primary ingredients: all-purpose flour, white sugar, egg whites, and butter, which together create its signature delicate structure without the need for leavening agents. In a standard recipe yielding about 20-25 wafers, the proportions typically include ⅔ cup all-purpose flour, ½ cup white sugar, 2 egg whites, and ½ cup butter, though slight variations exist across traditional preparations. The flour serves as the foundational element, providing the gluten network essential for the wafer's structural integrity and ability to hold its thin form. Sugar not only imparts sweetness but also enhances crispiness by drawing out moisture during baking and promoting caramelization, which contributes to the golden, brittle edges without relying on rising agents. Egg whites play a crucial role in achieving lightness and binding the mixture, as their proteins coagulate to create an airy yet firm texture that supports the wafer's thinness and snap, while their low content prevents heaviness. adds richness and subtle flavor through its solids and fats, while its low facilitates even spreading of the batter into ultra-thin layers, fostering tenderness alongside the overall crispiness derived from rapid moisture . This balanced composition, devoid of or , ensures the thin, crispy result stems purely from the ingredients' interactions during heat exposure. Optional flavorings, such as a teaspoon of vanilla extract, may be incorporated to enhance aroma without altering the core structure.

Appearance and Texture

Barquillos exhibit a distinctive visual profile as wafer-thin pastries, typically spread into circles approximately 7.6 cm (3 inches) in diameter before baking and rolling, resulting in a wall thickness of about 1-2 mm. Once baked, they display a light to golden-brown color, with slightly darker browned edges that enhance their appetizing appearance. The standard form consists of these thin sheets rolled tightly while hot into hollow cylinders or cones, usually measuring 10-12 cm in length, creating a , elongated shape that is lightweight and easy to handle. In terms of texture, barquillos feature an ultra-crispy exterior that shatters crisply upon biting, owing to their delicate, low-moisture composition, while the hollow interior provides a light, airy quality without any dense filling in the traditional plain variety. They are commonly served as plain rolls for standalone snacking, though ends may occasionally be dipped in for added contrast in some presentations.

History

Origins in Spain

Barquillo emerged in during the as a simple crafted by confectioners, often referred to as "suplicaciones" in historical records. These early versions were thin, crisp wafers made from basic ingredients like , , and egg whites, and they appeared in banquet menus, such as one documented in that included pears, radishes, suplicaciones, and cheeses as part of a formal course. This pastry likely evolved from earlier liturgical obleas or host wafers used in Christian rituals, transitioning into a secular treat among artisans and at social gatherings by the period. By the , barquillo became closely associated with street vendors known as barquilleros, who popularized the pastry through itinerant sales in public spaces across . These vendors carried portable ovens and waffle irons to produce the wafers on the spot, rolling the hot into slender cylinders for immediate consumption. The tradition gained a unique twist in the late with the introduction of elements, where customers spun a wheel on the vendor's tin box (bombo) to determine how many barquillos they received for a small fee, turning sales into an interactive street spectacle ubiquitous in parks, squares, and beaches. The barquillero tradition faced near-extinction during Francisco Franco's dictatorship from 1939 to 1975, primarily due to severe food shortages that hampered production and economic restrictions that limited street vending activities. Amid and autarkic policies, the scarcity of ingredients like and made it nearly impossible for vendors to sustain their craft, while regulations curbed informal ambulatory trade, reducing their presence in urban areas. A few families, such as the Cañas in , persisted by adapting to clandestine or limited operations, preserving the artisanal method through generations despite the regime's hardships.

Colonial Spread and Evolution

Barquillo, originating from Spanish culinary traditions, was introduced to starting with the colonization of the in the late and extending through subsequent settlements, as well as to the following the Spanish arrival in 1565. Spanish missionaries and settlers carried the basic wafer-making techniques, initially linked to communion hosts, which were adapted into rolled sweet pastries using local ingredients like and eggs. By the , barquillo had become an established treat in these colonized areas, particularly as a favored item during observances and religious fiestas, reflecting its integration into festive Catholic rituals imported from . In the , commercial production emerged late in the colonial era, with establishments like Deocampo's Barquillos founded in 1898 in , capitalizing on the growing demand for the crisp rolls as portable confections. In the , barquillo production in saw a sharp decline, especially under Francisco Franco's from 1939 to 1975, when economic and wartime shortages reduced street vendors from hundreds to just a handful by the 1980s, as many shifted to factory work amid modernization. Conversely, in , particularly the , the treat underwent a post-World War II revival, with family-run operations expanding production techniques and distribution in the recovery period, sustaining its role as a beloved local delicacy.

Preparation

Traditional Method

The traditional method for preparing classic Spanish barquillos, as used by street vendors known as barquilleros, involves mixing a simple thin batter (lechada) from , , and , sometimes with added or for flavor, until smooth and pourable. No resting time is typically required. A small amount of the batter is then poured onto a preheated plancha (iron hotplate) and spread thinly into a circle. The is cooked very briefly, often just a few seconds per side, and flipped using long iron rods, until it turns golden and crisp. Modern home variations may use a richer batter with equal parts , , egg whites, and melted , baked in an at around 200°C (390°F) for 1-2 minutes total, but this differs from the street tradition. While still hot and pliable, the is quickly removed and rolled tightly around a conical wooden mold to form the hollow . It is held briefly until it sets, then removed and cooled on a rack to harden.

Equipment and Techniques

The production of authentic barquillos relies on specialized traditional tools that enable the creation of thin, crisp in mobile street vending contexts. The primary includes planchas, which are heavy iron hotplates or irons used to cook the batter. These planchas are typically heated over in portable braziers to achieve the necessary high, even for , allowing barquilleros to operate in parks, plazas, and festivals without fixed . Once the thin batter layer is poured onto the hot plancha and cooked briefly on both sides—often flipped manually with long iron rods—the wafer must be removed promptly to prevent over-baking. Conical wooden molds, sometimes referred to as palos barquilleros, are then used for shaping; the hot is hand-rolled tightly around the mold while still pliable, ensuring an even, cylindrical form without cracks or irregularities. This hand-rolling technique demands precise timing, as the wafer cools and hardens within seconds, requiring it to be shaped immediately after removal from the plancha to maintain flexibility and avoid breaking. Mastering these techniques requires significant skill, particularly for barquilleros who transport and assemble their portable setups daily. These vendors, often from lineages preserving the , must manage the weight of equipment like the 40kg bombo tin for storage alongside the planchas and molds, while achieving consistent results through generations-old expertise in heat control and rapid handling.

Regional Variations

In Spain

In Spain, barquillo refers to a traditional thin, crispy wafer roll, typically produced in plain or vanilla-flavored varieties that emphasize simplicity and subtle sweetness. These are crafted from basic ingredients such as , sugar, butter or oil, and egg whites, resulting in a delicate, cylindrical shape without fillings. remains the most common flavor, though plain (sosa) versions highlight the pure crunch of the baked . The standard barquillo is an elongated cylindrical roll, making it ideal as a standalone rather than a container for other treats. Often enjoyed during festivals like San Isidro in , these rolls are consumed plain for their light texture or dipped in for added indulgence, evoking the country's longstanding heritage that dates to the . Artisan production continues in and other cities, with family-run workshops preserving the hand-rolled method using iron plates heated over open flames. Makers like the Cañas family, in their fifth generation, operate from traditional locales such as , producing small batches sold at markets, plazas, and specialty shops to combat the decline of industrial alternatives. This underscores barquillo's role as a cultural emblem, with outputs limited to ensure authenticity and quality.

In Latin America

In , barquillo has evolved into sweeter, often filled variations that reflect local culinary traditions, introduced during the colonial period from . These adaptations emphasize creamy fillings and pairings with other desserts, distinguishing them from the plainer European originals. In , cuchuflís represent a popular iteration, consisting of rolled barquillo tubes filled with manjar—a thick —or , offering a crunchy contrast to the rich interior. These treats are commonly sold by vendors in cities like Santiago, where they are enjoyed as an affordable indulgence. Argentine cubanitos take the form of elongated, cigar-shaped barquillo rolls, typically stuffed with for a sweet, tubular pastry that evokes the island's colonial influences. This version is a staple in bakeries and homes, sometimes coated in to enhance its appeal. In Guatemala and , barquillos are prepared as thinner, crisp wafers that provide a delicate base for desserts, occasionally infused with coconut flavor for a tropical note. These are frequently served alongside , amplifying their role in refreshing treats like sundaes. Colombian brands like Pirucrem produce coconut-flavored versions, blending the wafer's lightness with creamy coconut filling.

In the Philippines

In the , barquillos have developed into notably thinner, crisp rolls compared to their Spanish origins, with production centered in since the late . These wafers are typically mass-produced using traditional iron molds and are a staple (gift from travels), reflecting local adaptations during the colonial period. The Deocampo family's Original Deocampo Barquillos, for instance, traces its beginnings to 1898 when they supplied Eucharistic hosts to the local church in Jaro. Similarly, Hinolan's Barquillos, another longstanding producer, maintains the same heritage of hand-rolled, ultra-thin wafers since the late . A distinctive Filipino is the barquiron variant, which features bite-sized barquillos filled with —a crumbly, toasted made from , , and —often enhanced with nuts like cashews or for added texture and flavor. This combination creates a contrast of crunchy exterior and melt-in-the-mouth interior, making barquiron a popular snack in bakeries and beyond. Producers like Biscocho Haus have popularized this since the late , stuffing the rolls with sweet to elevate the simple into a more indulgent treat. Philippine barquillos also incorporate local tropical flavors, such as ube (purple yam) for a vibrant hue and nutty sweetness, pandan for an aromatic green tint, or for a subtle, creamy profile derived from grated or milk-infused batter. These flavored versions, like Bongbong's Ube Barquillos, add visual appeal and regional taste profiles to the traditional plain rolls. Due to their cone-like shape and sturdiness, barquillos are frequently used as edible containers for or other frozen desserts, enhancing street-side treats with their crisp shell.

Cultural Significance

Street Vending Tradition

The street vending tradition of barquillos in centers on the barquilleros, itinerant sellers who have peddled these thin, rolled wafers from mobile carts in cities like for over a century. Emerging as a distinctive feature of urban life, barquilleros combine sales with a gamified element, using a red tin wheel—known as a bombo—to determine the length or quantity of wafers dispensed to customers after a spin. This practice dates back more than 130 years, originating in the late when French-influenced vendors adapted the roulette mechanism to make transactions interactive and appealing, particularly in public spaces like plazas and parks. Central to the tradition is the emphasis on freshness, achieved through portable equipment that allows for on-site preparation. Barquilleros historically employed small, charcoal-fueled ovens or irons to bake the dough into crisp wafers right at the vending site, ensuring the treats retain their signature crunch and aroma. These ovens, often compact and carried alongside the bombo (a heavy tin up to 40 kg), enable vendors to roll the baked sheets into tubes or cones on the spot, flavored with , , or other essences using family recipes passed down generations. This mobile baking method not only preserves quality but also adds to the performative spectacle, drawing crowds with the scent of fresh wafers and the whir of the wheel. The tradition faced severe decline during Francisco Franco's (1939–1975), when food shortages and economic restrictions nearly eradicated barquillos from streets, reducing the once-thriving trade from hundreds of vendors to just a handful. The practice was severely curtailed due to food shortages and economic restrictions during the , persisting only through resilient families like the Cañas, who maintained artisanal production despite the challenges. In the post- era, barquilleros experienced a modest revival as cultural icons, particularly in , where they now serve as a in areas like Plaza Mayor, El market, and Retiro Park. As of 2025, only a few dedicated vendors remain, including the multi-generational Cañas family in and the Pelayo family in , who continue the craft as a nostalgic attraction for locals and tourists. Recent media coverage in 2025 has spotlighted these vendors, such as Julián Cañas in and Guillermo Pelayo in , as living symbols of 's and regional heritage during events like the San Isidro Festival and San Mateo fiestas.

Uses in Cuisine and Celebrations

In , particularly , barquillos serve as a traditional treat during the Posadas Navideñas, a nine-night reenactment of Mary and Joseph's search for shelter leading up to December 25. Hosts offer barquillos alongside tamales, chuchitos, and hot fruit punch to participants, making them a staple in these festive gatherings that blend religious observance with communal feasting. Similarly, in the , barquillos are often prepared at home for holiday celebrations, including , where they feature in family gatherings as a nostalgic, crisp to meals or as filled snacks evoking shared childhood memories. Barquillos integrate seamlessly into desserts across regions influenced by Spanish culinary traditions. In Spain, they are commonly shaped into cones for ice cream, their thin, boat-like form—deriving from the Spanish word for "little boat"—providing a crunchy vessel that enhances vanilla or chocolate scoops. In the Philippines, barquillos are crumbled over sundaes or filled with local flavors like ube halaya for added texture in post-meal treats during family events. During fiestas, they pair with simple creams or honey, offering a light, vanilla-scented contrast to richer dishes like fruits or pastries. Symbolically, barquillos represent simplicity and joy in Spanish fiestas, where their presence in public squares and parks during events like the San Isidro Festival underscores community bonding through shared sweets. In the , they appear in holiday offerings, though primarily as everyday delights rather than ritual items, reinforcing familial ties during seasonal rejoicings.

References

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  2. https://dictionary.cambridge.org/us/dictionary/spanish-english/barquillo
  3. https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/175293/barquillos-wafer-rolls/
  4. https://growingupbilingual.com/barquillos-recipe-delicious-guatemalan-cookies/
  5. https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20201021-barquillos-spains-unique-street-food-roulette
  6. https://kids.kiddle.co/Barquillo
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  11. https://www.diversivore.com/chinese-biscuit-rolls/
  12. https://www.biscuitpeople.com/magazine/post/cookie-roll
  13. https://www.delish.com/cooking/recipe-ideas/a40384089/pirouette-cookies-recipe/
  14. https://food52.com/recipes/84997-kue-semprong-cookie-recipe
  15. https://www.kingarthurbaking.com/blog/2016/03/14/cookie-chemistry-2
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  20. https://filipinodesserts.recipes/filipino-desserts-history-varieties-cultural-significance/
  21. https://pssc.org.ph/wp-content/pssc-archives/Historical%20Bulletin/PHA%20HB%202016.pdf
  22. https://multiculturalkidblogs.com/2019/11/04/christmas-in-the-philippines/
  23. https://flavoursofiloilo.blogspot.com/2011/04/deocampo-barquillos-story.html
  24. https://www.galiciadigital.com/opinion/opinion.3515.php
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  30. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qHNfBTqzsY
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  45. https://www.hoperenewed.org/hoperenewed-blog/celebrating-christmas-and-new-years-in-guatemala
  46. https://www.marketmanila.com/archives/barquillos-wafer-rolls
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