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Yusheng
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 Qicai yusheng prior to mixing | |
| Alternative names | Lou sang, yee sang, lo hei, Prosperity Toss |
|---|---|
| Type | Salad |
| Course | Traditionally consumed during Chinese New Year |
| Region or state | East and Southeast Asia |
| Associated cuisine | Malaysia and Singapore (historical origins); Brunei, Indonesia, Hong Kong and Thailand (recent trend) |
| Main ingredients | Raw fish (or soy fish for the vegetarian version), shredded vegetables and a variety of sauces and condiments |
| Yusheng | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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 Yusheng in Simplified Chinese (top) and Traditional Chinese character (below) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Traditional Chinese | 魚生 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Literal meaning | "raw fish" | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Yusheng, yee sang or yuu sahng (Chinese: 魚生; pinyin: yúshēng; Jyutping: jyu4saang1), or Prosperity Toss, also known as lo sahng (Cantonese for 撈生) is a Chinese raw fish salad that is popular among the Chinese communities of Malaysia and Singapore. It has become a trend in the neighbouring countries, especially the Chinese diaspora in Indonesia, Brunei, Thailand and even Hong Kong. It usually consists of strips of raw fish (sometimes salmon), mixed with shredded vegetables and a variety of sauces and condiments, among other ingredients. There is also a vegetarian version of this dish, where the fish is replaced with soy "fish", which resembles salmon. Yusheng literally means "raw fish" but since "fish" (魚) is commonly conflated with its homophone "abundance" (餘), Yúshēng (魚生) is interpreted as a homophone for Yúshēng (餘升), meaning an increase in abundance. Therefore, yusheng is considered a symbol of abundance, prosperity and vigor.
The dish is believed to have been derived in Southeast Asia (Nanyang) by the Chinese communities (particularly the Cantonese) who moved from China to the modern-day states of Malaysia and Singapore. Modern takes of the dish existed in both Malaysia and Singapore with both countries having competitive claims over who first modified the dish to its modern version. Today, the common form of yusheng is the qicai yusheng (七彩魚生; "seven-coloured raw fish salad") served in local restaurants during the Chinese New Year period. Also referred to as facai yusheng (發財魚生; "prosperity raw fish salad") or xinnian yusheng (新年魚生; "Chinese New Year raw fish salad"). The recipe generally includes ingredients such as shredded radish (or daikon) and carrots, ginger slices, onion slices, crushed peanuts, pomelo, pepper, essence of chicken, oil, salt, vinegar, sugar and more.
Yusheng during Chinese New Year is a cultural activity for the Chinese population in Malaysia and Singapore and recently become popular although not historically practiced in Indonesia,[1] Thailand and Hong Kong over the last few decades.
Origins
[edit]The Chinese Cuisine Association mentions the tradition coming from Malaysia and Singapore before the dishes were brought to Southeast Asia by Chinese immigration. However, the statement only mentions the tradition of having raw fish during Chinese New Year, which was served very differently from today's Yusheng.[2]
Dispute
[edit]The dish originated in Malaysia and Singapore but modern takes of the dish existed in both Malaysia and Singapore with both countries having competitive claims over who invented or modified the dish first. In 2020, a descendant of Lu Zhen Ji stated that the origin of the claim was hard to prove and meaningless to insist on an origin, ending the dispute.[3][4]
Singapore
[edit]In Singapore, the claim was that the dish was modified by four chefs, Than Mui Kai (Tham Yu Kai, co-head chef of Lai Wah Restaurant), Lau Yoke Pui (co-head chef of Lai Wah Restaurant), Hooi Kok Wai (founder of Dragon-Phoenix Restaurant) and Sin Leong (founder of Sin Leong Restaurant), in a restaurant kitchen in Singapore.[5]
In the 1970s, the Lai Wah Restaurant located at Bendemeer started the modern-day method of serving yusheng with a pre-mixed special sauce comprising plum sauce, rice vinegar, kumquat paste and sesame oil – instead of customers mixing inconsistently-concocted sauce.[5]
In 2012, Chris Hooi, son of Hooi Kok Wai, one of the four chefs, clarified that the four chefs never claimed they invented the dish and their modified dish only took off in Singapore in the 1960s.[6][failed verification]
Malaysia
[edit]Malaysian historians and news media propose that the present yusheng originated from modifying an earlier fish noodle dish, served during Renri by Loke Ching Fatt (pinyin: Lù Zhēnfā; Jyutping: Luk6 Zing1 Faat3), who at the time owned Loke Ching Kee (Chinese: 陆祯记; pinyin: Lù Zhēn Jì; Jyutping: Luk6 Zing1 Kei3), a Chinese restaurant in the city of Seremban.[7][8][9] One of Loke's grandchildren, statesman Anthony Loke launched a history book on the food's origins on their family side on 31 January 2020.[10]
In 2009, the Malaysian Department of National Heritage claimed Yusheng, alongside other Malaysian food dishes, as an "Intangible Heritage Object of Malaysia".[7][11]
Ingredients and their symbolism
[edit] | This section needs additional citations for verification. (November 2014) |
When putting the yusheng on the table, New Year greetings are offered. Some of the phrases commonly used are:
- 恭喜發財 / 恭喜发财 (pinyin: gōng xǐ fā cái; Jyutping: gung1 hei2 faat3 coi4) meaning "Congratulations and be wealthy"
- 萬事如意 / 万事如意 (pinyin: wàn shì rú yì; Jyutping: maan6 si6 jyu4 ji3) meaning "May all your wishes be fulfilled"
The fish is added – its Mandarin word, "魚" (pronounced "yu") corresponds to a homophone of it "餘 / 余" meaning "abundance", thus 年年有餘 / 年年有余 (pinyin: nian nian you yu; Jyutping: nin4 nin4 jau5 jyu4), "abundance through the year". Pomelo or lime (大利, da li / daai lei) is added to the fish, adding luck and auspicious value (大吉大利 pinyin: dà jí dà lì; Jyutping: daai6 gat1 daai6 lei6, meaning "good luck and smooth sailing"). Pepper is then dashed over in the hope of attracting more money and valuables. 招財進寶 / 招财进宝 pinyin: zhao cai jin bao; Jyutping: ziu1 coi4 zeon3 bou2 meaning "Attract wealth and treasures". Then oil is poured out, circling the ingredients and encouraging money to flow in from all directions – referring to 一本萬利 / 一本万利 pinyin: yī běn wàn lì; Jyutping: jat1 bun2 maan6 lei6, meaning "make 10,000 times of profit with your capital", and 財源廣進 / 财源广进 pinyin: cai yuan guang jin; Jyutping: coi4 jyun4 gwong2 zeon3 meaning "numerous sources of wealth".
Carrots are added indicating blessings of good luck: the first word in the compound word representing the ingredient, "紅蘿蔔 / 红萝卜" (pinyin: hóng luó bo; Jyutping: hung4 lo4 baak6 pong6), 紅 / 红 (hong / hung) has a homophone in 鴻 / 鸿 referring to 鴻運當頭 / 鸿运当头 pinyin: hong yun dang tou; Jyutping: hung4 wan6 dong1 tau4 meaning "good luck is approaching". Shredded green radish is later added symbolising eternal youth – 青春常駐 / 青春常驻 pinyin: qing chun chang zhu; Jyutping: cing1 ceon1 soeng4 zyu3, "forever young". After which the shredded white radish is added – prosperity in business and promotion at work (風生水起 / 风生水起 pinyin: feng sheng shui qi; Jyutping: fung1 saang1 seoi2 hei2 – "progress at a fast pace", 步步高升 pinyin: bu bu gao sheng; Jyutping: bou6 bou6 gou1 sing1 – "reaching higher level with each step").
The condiments are finally added. First, peanut crumbs are dusted on the dish, symbolising a household filled with gold and silver (金銀滿屋 / 金银满屋 pinyin: jin yin man wu; Jyutping: gam1 ngan4 mun5 uk1, meaning "household filled with gold and silver"). Sesame seeds quickly follow symbolizing a flourishing business (生意興隆 / 生意兴隆 pinyin: sheng yi xing long; Jyutping: saang1 ji3 hing1 lung4, meaning "prosperity for the business") Yu Sheng sauce, usually made from plum sauce, is generously drizzled over everything – a reference to 甜甜蜜蜜 pinyin: tian tian mi mi; Jyutping: tim4 tim4 mat6 mat6, meaning "may life always be sweet"[12] Deep-fried flour crisps in the shape of golden pillows is then added with wishes that literally the whole floor would be filled with gold (遍地黃金 / 遍地黄金 pinyin: bian di huang jin; Jyutping: pin3 dei6 wong4 gam1, "floor full of gold").
Modern version of the dish
[edit]The yusheng had fish served with daikon (white radish), carrots, red pepper (capsicum), turnips, red pickled ginger, sun-dried oranges, key lime leaves, coriander, chilli, jellyfish, chopped peanuts, toasted sesame seeds, Chinese shrimp crackers (or fried dried shrimp), five spice powder and other ingredients, laced with a sauce using plum sauce, rice vinegar, kumquat paste and sesame oil, for a total of 27 ingredients.[13][14][15] Originally, the dish used raw wolf herring, although salmon was later offered as an alternative due to said species' growing popularity with customers.
Serving
[edit]Yusheng is often served as part of a multi-dish dinner, usually as the appetizer due to its symbolism of "good luck" for the new year. Some would consume it on Renri, the seventh day of the Chinese New Year, although in practice it may be eaten on any convenient day during the Chinese New Year period (the first to the 15th day of the first lunar month).
The base ingredients are first served. The leader amongst the diners or the restaurant server proceeds to add ingredients such as the fish, the crackers and the sauces while saying "auspicious wishes" (吉祥話 / 吉祥话 pinyin: jíxiáng huà; Jyutping: gat1 coeng4 waa6*2) as each ingredient is added, typically related to the specific ingredient being added. For example, phrases such as 年年有餘 / 年年有余 (pinyin: niánnián yǒuyú; Jyutping: nin4 nin4 jau5 jyu4; "may there be abundance year after year") are uttered as the fish is added, as the Chinese word for "surplus" or "abundance" (餘 / 余 pinyin: yú; Jyutping: jyu4) sounds the same as the Chinese word for "fish" (魚 / 鱼 pinyin: yú; Jyutping: jyu4).
All diners at the table then stand up and proceed to toss the shredded ingredients into the air with chopsticks while saying various "auspicious wishes" out loud, or simply "lo hei, lo hei" (撈起, pinyin: lāoqǐ, lāoqǐ meaning "scoop it up, scoop it up"). It is believed that the height of the toss reflects the height of the diners' growth in fortunes, thus diners are expected to toss enthusiastically.
See also
[edit]
References
[edit]- ^ "Yusheng: Kuliner khas Imlek dengan Ritual Menikmati yang Unik". Good News from Indonesia.
- ^ ""鱼生"到底源自哪一国·都市快报". hzdaily.hangzhou.com.cn. Retrieved 29 January 2021.
- ^ "撈生出處掀爭議‧陸志就：無人能證實撈生來源‧芙蓉40年代已有魚生". Sin Chew Jit Poh. Sin Chew Jit Poh. 30 January 2012. Archived from the original on 22 February 2015. Retrieved 22 February 2015.
- ^ "七彩鱼生创办人后裔 陆兆福与森王室成员捞生". www.enanyang.my (in Simplified Chinese). 26 May 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2021.
- ^ a b "本地广东人捞鱼生传统 始于40年代". 早报 (in Simplified Chinese). 4 February 2017. Retrieved 29 January 2021.
- ^ "Dish with a longer history on both sides of the Causeway". The Star. 6 February 2012. Retrieved 18 February 2022.
- ^ a b "捞生是大马人发明．鱼生2009年已列国家文化食品". www.sinchew.com.my. 16 January 2012. Retrieved 29 January 2021.
- ^ Leng Wai Chan (2016). A Toss of Yee Sang. ISBN 978-1523367276.
- ^ Chew, Amy (16 May 2021). "Malaysian-Chinese politician's surprising link to a popular raw fish salad". South China Morning Post.
- ^ "七彩鱼生创办人后裔 陆兆福与森王室成员捞生". E-Nanyang (in Simplified Chinese). 31 January 2020.
- ^ "Intangible Heritage Objects". Archived from the original on 2 April 2015.
- ^ "Recipe: DIY Homemade Yu Sheng Sauce for Chinese New Year". The Moonberry Blog. 27 January 2014. Retrieved 25 November 2014.
- ^ "Singapore celebrates New Year". News24/Reuters. 5 February 2008. Archived from the original on 8 February 2008. Retrieved 5 February 2008.
- ^ Huang, Lijie (2006). "It's a toss up". ST Foodies Club. Singapore Press Holdings. Archived from the original on 9 February 2008. Retrieved 5 February 2008.
- ^ "SingaporeFoodHistory". Archived from the original on 10 July 2006. Retrieved 31 January 2006.
External links
[edit]
- Interactive Virtual Reality – Process of Lo Hei
- Jack Tsen-Ta Lee, A Dictionary of Singlish and Singapore English – lo hei
- Jack Tsen-Ta Lee, A Dictionary of Singlish and Singapore English – yusheng
- A recipe for yusheng
- DIY Spring Toss Yusheng recipe
- Yusheng Ingredients Meaning Archived 26 December 2016 at the Wayback Machine
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Yusheng
View on GrokipediaHistorical Background
Ancient Chinese Roots
The consumption of raw fish, a core component of yusheng, traces its origins to ancient Chinese culinary practices during the Zhou Dynasty (c. 1046–256 BC), where thinly sliced fresh fish preparations known as kuai (finely minced raw fish) and sheng (raw slices) were esteemed as refined delicacies, particularly among the nobility by the dynasty's later periods.[3][9] These dishes involved immediate slaughter and slicing of fish—often carp—for prompt consumption to preserve freshness, as evidenced in historical records of banquets, such as a Zhou victory feast featuring raw sliced carp.[10] Confucius (551–479 BC), during the Zhou era, highlighted the cultural value placed on such preparations, stating that "food can never be too refined; kuai can never be sliced too thin," underscoring the emphasis on precision and thinness in raw fish slicing to enhance texture and flavor.[11] This tradition persisted in southern regions like Guangdong, where raw fish evolved into seasonal dishes, but its ancient form lacked the multi-ingredient salad or communal tossing ritual of modern yusheng, focusing instead on simplicity with accompaniments like ginger or vinegar in later iterations.[9] Symbolic underpinnings also emerged early, with the term yu (fish) serving as a homophone for yu (abundance or surplus), fostering associations between raw fish consumption and wishes for prosperity and surplus harvests—ideas rooted in agrarian society's reliance on riverine resources.[3] Similarly, sheng (raw) shares pronunciation and implications with concepts of growth and vitality, aligning raw fish with longevity motifs in classical texts.[3] While direct links to Chinese New Year festivities like Renri (the seventh day, or "human's day") appear in later southern Chinese coastal customs—where fishermen consumed raw catches to celebrate abundance—these practices postdate Zhou records and represent regional evolutions rather than Zhou-era prescriptions.[7]Early Southeast Asian Adaptations
Cantonese and Teochew immigrants from southern China introduced yusheng, a raw fish dish, to Singapore and Malaya (modern-day Malaysia) during the 19th century amid waves of migration driven by economic opportunities and turmoil in China, including post-1858 treaty port openings in regions like Chaozhou and Shantou.[3][12] These communities, concentrated in areas such as Penang, Johor (known as "Little Swatow"), and Singapore, adapted the tradition from Guangdong and Chaoshan practices, where raw fish symbolized vitality and abundance, evolving from ancient raw meat preparations (kuài) to seafood-focused salads due to coastal abundance.[12] Early preparations remained simple, featuring thinly sliced raw fish—often local species—served with shredded cucumber, radish, coriander, and basic condiments including vinegar, oil, and sugar, consumed separately without mixing or tossing.[3] The dish was traditionally eaten on Renri, the seventh day of the lunar New Year, to honor the goddess Nüwa and invoke prosperity, differing from broader Chinese customs by emphasizing raw fish over cooked variants and incorporating Nanyang-available vegetables like carrots and turnips for enhanced texture and flavor.[3][12] By the mid-20th century, prefiguring modern elaborations, Cantonese immigrant Loke Ching Fatt developed Sup Kum Yee Sang in Seremban, Malaysia, during the 1940s, introducing a more vibrant, multi-ingredient assembly that expanded beyond basic components while retaining the raw fish core.[3] Contemporaneously, establishments like Yow Kee in Kuala Lumpur served yusheng from 1945, adapting it for urban Chinese diners amid post-World War II revival of communal festivities, though still absent the ritualistic tossing (lo hei) that would later define the dish.[7] These adaptations highlighted a shift toward symbolic prosperity in diaspora settings, influenced by local ingredient accessibility and cultural synthesis, yet preserved the uncooked essence tied to Teochew and Cantonese heritage.[12]Modern Development
Singaporean Innovation in the 1960s
The modern iteration of yusheng, featuring an expanded array of ingredients and the communal "lo hei" tossing ritual, emerged in Singapore during the early 1960s amid efforts to revitalize Chinese restaurant business during Chinese New Year celebrations.[5][13] In response to sluggish sales and economic challenges post-independence, four prominent Cantonese chefs—Hooi Kok Wai, Tham Yui Kai, Tan Chew Loon, and Han Bao San, collectively dubbed the "Four Heavenly Kings of Cantonese Cuisine"—collaborated to innovate the traditional raw fish dish.[3][1] Their creation transformed the simple Teochew and Cantonese precursor, which typically included only raw fish, cucumber, radish, coriander, vinegar, oil, and sugar, into a vibrant salad incorporating up to 12 or more symbolic elements such as pomelo for abundance, carrots for red fortune, and peanuts for wealth.[3][14] This innovation debuted publicly on the second day of Chinese New Year in 1964 at restaurants like Lai Chun Kee and others associated with the chefs, where the "seven-coloured yusheng" was introduced as a prosperity-promoting dish.[13][15] The chefs developed a unified sauce blending plum sauce, sesame oil, and other condiments to unify flavors, which became emblematic of the dish's distinct Singaporean profile.[5] The lo hei ritual, involving diners tossing ingredients skyward with chopsticks while reciting auspicious phrases like "kong hei fat choi" (prosperous new year), was formalized to symbolize rising fortunes and communal harmony, drawing on phonetic puns in Cantonese and Hokkien for ingredients' prosperity connotations.[16][17] By the late 1960s, this version gained traction in Singapore's Chinese diaspora communities, particularly among business professionals who adopted it for corporate gatherings to invoke economic success amid the nation's rapid industrialization.[18] Government-backed heritage efforts later recognized it as a key intangible cultural heritage element, underscoring its role in fostering national identity without reliance on mainland Chinese precedents.[3] While the innovation built on imported raw fish customs from Guangdong and Chaozhou immigrants since the 19th century, the 1960s adaptations emphasized multiplicity and spectacle, distinguishing it from earlier, minimalist forms.[1]Malaysian Assertions and Precedents
Malaysian culinary historians and media outlets assert that yusheng, or yee sang, evolved from earlier precedents in Malaya predating Singaporean innovations, tracing its roots to adaptations of traditional Cantonese and Hokkien fish dishes consumed on Renri, the seventh day of the Lunar New Year. These dishes, featuring raw fish slices and noodles symbolizing longevity, were brought by immigrants from southern China starting in the late 19th century and modified locally to incorporate available ingredients like pomfret and seasonal vegetables.[19] A key precedent cited is the work of Loke Ching Fatt, a Cantonese immigrant who operated a small eatery in Seremban, Negeri Sembilan, during the 1940s. According to Malaysian accounts, Loke created an early tossed version of yee sang around 1947 by combining raw fish with shredded vegetables, jellyfish, and a simple dressing, serving it as a communal dish during Chinese New Year to evoke prosperity amid post-war economic hardship. This formulation reportedly included symbolic elements like carrots for good fortune and peanuts for wealth, tossed together by diners in a precursor to the modern lo hei ritual.[2][19] Proponents of the Malaysian origin emphasize that Seremban's version predates the 1964 Singaporean refinement by local chefs, arguing it represents an authentic Malayan adaptation influenced by the region's multicultural trading ports, such as Malacca, where Chinese traders integrated yusheng-like salads into festive meals as early as the early 20th century. These claims highlight precedents in informal catering and home preparations across Malaya, contrasting with formalized Singaporean commercialization, though direct documentation remains anecdotal and reliant on family oral histories rather than contemporaneous records.[16][12]Ingredients and Symbolism
Primary Components and Their Auspicious Meanings
The primary components of yusheng are selected for their symbolic associations with prosperity, health, and good fortune, drawn from Chinese linguistic homophones and cultural metaphors. Each ingredient is added sequentially during the lo hei tossing ritual, accompanied by auspicious phrases that articulate its intended blessings. These elements collectively represent a wish for abundance and success in the coming year.[20][21] Raw fish (typically salmon or abalone slices) symbolizes abundance and prosperity, as the Mandarin term for fish (yú) is a homophone for surplus (yù), evoking "nián nián yǒu yú" (abundance every year).[20][21][22] Shredded white radish represents career advancement and rising fortunes, tied to the phrase "bù bù gāo shēng" (step by step promotion), reflecting the vegetable's layered peeling process. Green radish signifies eternal youth ("qīng chūn cháng zhù"), while carrots denote impending good luck ("hóng yùn dāng tóu").[20][21] Pomelo pieces or lime invoke the arrival of great luck and prosperity ("dà jí dà lì"), symbolizing the fruit's vibrant freshness and abundance.[20][22] Crushed peanuts stand for a household filled with gold and silver ("jīn yín mǎn wū"), representing wealth accumulation through their nut-like solidity. Sesame seeds signify flourishing business ventures ("shēng yì xīng lóng").[20][21] Pepper and cinnamon powder are scattered to attract wealth and treasures ("zhāo cái jìn bǎo"), with their sprinkling motion mimicking the drawing in of fortune from all directions.[20][22] Oil (poured in a circular motion) ensures smooth progress and wealth inflow from multiple sources ("cái yuán guǎng jìn"), symbolizing fluidity in business and life.[20][21] Plum sauce brings sweetness and harmony to relationships ("tián tián mì mì"), enhancing the dish's flavor while wishing for blissful interpersonal bonds.[20][22] Crispy golden crackers evoke a landscape of gold ("biàn dì huáng jīn"), crushed and tossed to signify overflowing riches scattered everywhere.[20][22]Ritual Phrases and Tossing Sequence
The Lo Hei ceremony for yusheng involves a structured sequence of adding ingredients while reciting specific auspicious phrases in Mandarin or Cantonese, each symbolizing prosperity, health, and good fortune for the coming year. This ritual, central to the dish's consumption during Chinese New Year, begins with the host presenting the assembled yusheng platter to the diners, accompanied by the greeting gōng xǐ fā cái (恭喜发财), meaning "wishing you prosperity and wealth."[23][17] The phrases are chanted collectively as each ingredient layer is incorporated, with the order typically following the dish's symbolic progression from base elements to enhancements. Key phrases correspond to primary ingredients as follows:- Raw fish slices (often salmon or abalone): Nián nián yǒu yú (年年有余), invoking "abundance every year," as the fish represents surplus and the act of adding slices signifies increasing prosperity.[21][24]
- Lime or plum sauce drizzle: Dà jí dà lì (大吉大利), meaning "great fortune and great profit," to season and "strike" luck into the mixture.[25][26]
- White pepper or cinnamon powder: Wǔ fú lín mén (五福临门), calling for the "five blessings" (longevity, wealth, health, virtue, and peaceful death) to descend upon the household.[27][21]
- Cooking oil pour: Zhāo cái jìn bǎo (招财进宝), "attract wealth and treasure," symbolizing smooth flow of fortune as the oil coats the ingredients.[26][23]
- Shredded pomelo or carrot: Tiān tiān mì mì (甜甜蜜蜜) or Cài yuán guǎng jìn (财源广进), wishing "sweetness every day" or "wide sources of wealth," representing sweetness in life and expanding opportunities.[24][25]
- Additional toppings like peanuts, sesame seeds, or five-spice: Phrases such as Yī běn wàn lì (一本万利), "one becomes ten thousand profits," for multiplying gains.[27][26]