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Spandex
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Spandex, Lycra, or elastane is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It is a polyether-polyurea copolymer that was invented in 1958 by chemist Joseph Shivers at DuPont.[1][2][3]

Name
[edit]The name spandex, which is an anagram of the word "expands",[4] is the preferred name in North America. In continental Europe, it is referred to by variants of elastane.[a] It is primarily known as Lycra in the UK, Ireland, Portugal, Spain, Latin America, Australia, and New Zealand.
Brand names for spandex include Lycra (made by The Lycra Company, previously a division of DuPont Textiles and Interiors), Elaspan (The Lycra Company), Acepora (Taekwang Group), Creora (Hyosung), INVIYA (Indorama Corporation), ROICA and Dorlastan (Asahi Kasei), Linel (Fillattice),[5] and ESPA (Toyobo).
Production
[edit]Unlike many other synthetic fibers, spandex cannot be melt-processed because the polymer degrades upon melting. Spandex fibers are produced by several spinning technologies. Typically, a concentrated solution of the polymer is drawn through spinnerets at temperatures where the solvent evaporates.[6]

Spandex is mainly composed of a polyurea derived from the reaction of a diol and a diisocyanate. Two classes of spandex are defined by the "macrodiols". One class of macrodiols is the oligomer produced from tetrahydrofuran (i.e. polytetrahydrofuran). Another class of diols, the so-called ester diols, are oligomers derived from condensation of adipic acid and glycols. Spandex produced from the ester diols is more resilient photochemically and to chlorinated water. Almost always, the diisocyanate is methylenebis(phenyl isocyanate). The key linking reaction is formation or the urea (aka urethane):
- ROH + OCNR' → ROC(O)NHR
The polyurea is usually treated with various diamines, which function as chain extenders.
Function
[edit]The exceptional elasticity of spandex fibers increases the clothing's pressure comfort, enhancing the ease of body movements. Pressure comfort is the response towards clothing by the human body's pressure receptors (mechanoreceptors present in skin sensory cells). The sensation response is affected mainly by the stretch, snug, loose, heavy, lightweight, soft, and stiff structure of the material.[7]
The elasticity and strength (stretching up to five times its length) of spandex has been incorporated into a wide range of garments, especially in skin-tight garments. A benefit of spandex is its significant strength and elasticity and its ability to return to the original shape after stretching and faster drying than ordinary fabrics. For clothing, spandex is usually mixed with cotton or polyester, and accounts for a small percentage of the final fabric, which therefore retains most of the look and feel of the other fibers. An estimated 80% of clothing sold in the United States contained spandex in 2010.[8]
Gallery
[edit]- Stretch material used in various sports
-
A road cyclist wearing compression garments
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A United States Air Force Academy hurdler in a uniform
History
[edit]The easy condensation of diols and diisocyanates was recognized in the 1930s as the result of work by Otto Bayer.[6] Fibers suitable for replacing nylon were not created from urethanes, but instead this theme led to a family of specialized elastic fabrics.
In the post-World War II era, DuPont Textiles Fibers Department, formed in 1952, became the most profitable division of DuPont, dominating the synthetic fiber market worldwide.[9] At this time, women began to emerge as a significant group of consumers because of their need for underwear and hosiery.[9] After conducting market research to find out what women wanted from textiles, DuPont began developing fibers to meet such needs—including a better fiber for women's girdles, which were commonly made of rubber at the time.
In the early 1950s chemist Joseph C. Shivers modified Dacron polyester, producing an elastic fiber that could withstand high temperatures.[10] [11][1][2][3]
Lycra brand
[edit]To distinguish its brand of spandex fiber, DuPont chose the trade name Lycra (originally called Fiber K).[12] DuPont launched an extensive publicity campaign for its Lycra brand, taking advertisements and full-page ads in top women's magazines.[9] Audrey Hepburn helped catapult the brand on and off-screen during this time; models and actresses like Joan Collins and Ann-Margret followed Hepburn's aesthetic by posing in Lycra clothing for photo shoots and magazine covers.[13]
By the mid-1970s, with the emergence of the women's liberation movement, girdle sales began to drop as they came to be associated with anti-independence and emblematic of an era that was quickly passing away.[9] In response, DuPont marketed Lycra as the aerobic fitness movement emerged in the 1970s.[9] The association of Lycra with fitness had been established at the 1968 Winter Olympic Games, when the French ski team wore Lycra garments.[14] The fiber came to be especially popular in mid-thigh-length shorts worn by cyclists.[14]
By the 1980s, the fitness trend had reached its height in popularity and fashionistas began wearing shorts on the street.[15] Spandex proved such a popular fiber in the garment industry that, by 1987, DuPont had trouble meeting worldwide demand. In the 1990s a variety of other items made with spandex proved popular, including a successful line of body-shaping foundation garments sold under the trade name Bodyslimmers. As the decade progressed, shirts, pants, dresses, and even shoes were being made with spandex blends, and mass-market retailers like Banana Republic were even using it for menswear.[15]
In 2019, control of the Lycra Company was sold by Koch Industries to Shandong Ruyi.[16]
Environmental impact
[edit]Most clothes containing spandex are difficult to recycle.[17] Even a 5% inclusion of spandex will render the fabric incompatible with most mechanical recycling machines.
Notes
[edit]- ^ Including élasthanne (France), Elastan (Germany, Sweden), elastano (Spain), elastam (Italy), and elastaan (Netherlands)
References
[edit]- ^ a b Teegarden, David M. (2004). Polymer Chemistry: Introduction to an Indispensable Science. NSTA Press. p. 149. ISBN 9780873552219.
- ^ a b TIME-LIFE American Inventions: Big Ideas That Changed Modern Life. Time-Life Books. 2016. ISBN 9781683306313.
- ^ a b Moskowitz, Sanford L. (2016). Advanced Materials Innovation: Managing Global Technology in the 21st Century. Wiley. ISBN 9780470508923.
- ^ Kadolph, Sara J. (2010). Textiles. Pearson. ISBN 9780135007594.
- ^ "Fillattice Stretches Its Reach Globally". Textile World. March 1, 2000. Retrieved December 22, 2021.
- ^ a b Wolf, Karl-Heinz; Kausch, Michael; Schröer, Hans; Schweizer, Michael (2011). "Fibers, 6. Polyurethane Fibers". Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. doi:10.1002/14356007.o10_o02. ISBN 978-3527306732.
- ^ Song, Guowen (2011). Improving Comfort in Clothing. Woodhead Publishing. pp. 25, 235, 432. ISBN 9780857090645.
- ^ Marisa Penaloza (December 11, 2011). "Spandex Stretches To Meet U.S. Waistlines". NPR. Retrieved January 17, 2012.
- ^ a b c d e O'Connor, Kaori (2008), "CHAPTER ELEVEN. The Body and the Brand: How Lycra Shaped America", Producing Fashion, University of Pennsylvania Press, pp. 207–228, doi:10.9783/9780812206050.207, ISBN 9780812206050
- ^ "Joseph c. Shivers to Receive The Olney Medal" (PDF). American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. August 1998. Archived from the original (PDF) on December 3, 2013. Retrieved November 26, 2018.
- ^ Flynn, Elizabeth; Patel, Sarah (2016). The Really Useful Primary Design and Technology Book: Subject Knowledge and Lesson Ideas. New York: Routledge. p. 86. ISBN 9781317402565.
- ^ Reisch, Marc (February 15, 1999). "What's That Stuff? – Spandex". Chemical & Engineering News. 77 (7). doi:10.1021/cen-v077n007.p070. Retrieved December 6, 2018.
- ^ Clark, Meaghan. "What Came First: The Yoga Pant Or The Skinny Jean?". Refinery29. Vice Media. Retrieved December 11, 2018.
- ^ a b "Lycra: a brief history". The Sydney Morning Herald. Archived from the original on November 17, 2021. Retrieved December 11, 2018.
- ^ a b "Spandex – Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages". Encyclopedia of Fashion. Retrieved December 11, 2018.
- ^ Kane Wu, Scott Murdoch (August 6, 2020). "'China's LVMH' Shandong Ruyi resists Lycra sale in favour of IPO amid debt crisis: sources". Reuters. Retrieved April 10, 2024.
- ^ Yunjie Yin; Donggang Yao; Chaoxia Wang; Youjiang Wang (2014). "Removal of spandex from nylon/spandex blended fabrics by selective polymer degradation". Textile Research Journal. 84. Textile Research Journal, Volume 84, Issue 1, January 2014: 16–27. doi:10.1177/0040517513487790. S2CID 43014321.
External links
[edit]- "What's That Stuff: Spandex" Chemical and Engineering News
Spandex
View on GrokipediaDefinition and Properties
Chemical Composition
Spandex is classified as a polyether-polyurea copolymer, synthesized primarily from long-chain polyols such as polytetramethylene ether glycol (PTMEG), diisocyanates including 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate (MDI), and diamine chain extenders like ethylenediamine or hydrazine.[9][10] These components react to form the polymer backbone, with PTMEG serving as the flexible soft segment precursor, MDI providing the linking isocyanate groups, and the diamines extending the chain through urea formation.[11] This composition typically constitutes at least 85% polyurethane or polyurea by weight in commercial spandex fibers.[1] The molecular architecture of spandex is a segmented block copolymer, consisting of alternating hard and soft segments that define its elastomeric behavior.[11] Hard segments arise from the urea linkages (-NH-CO-NH-) created between the diisocyanate and diamine chain extenders, imparting rigidity and phase separation due to their polar and hydrogen-bonding capabilities.[12] In contrast, soft segments derive from the polyether chains of PTMEG (-O-(CH₂)₄-O- repeating units), which offer low glass transition temperatures and high chain mobility for flexibility.[10] This microphase-separated morphology, where hard domains act as physical crosslinks within a soft matrix, underpins the material's reversible deformation properties.[13] Compositional variations exist to tailor performance, such as polyether-polyurethane spandex formed using diol extenders instead of diamines, resulting in urethane linkages (-NH-CO-O-) that may alter thermal stability.[14] Polycarbonate-based spandex, employing polycarbonate diols as soft segments, enhances hydrolytic and oxidative stability compared to standard polyether types, offering improved resistance to chlorine degradation and mildew in applications like swimwear.[15] These alternatives maintain the block copolymer framework but adjust segment polarity and length to optimize chemical durability without compromising core elasticity.[1] The general chemical structure of spandex can be represented as a repeating block copolymer unit: where R denotes the diisocyanate-derived moiety (e.g., from MDI), R' represents the polyol soft segment (e.g., PTMEG chain), m and n indicate the number of hard and soft units, respectively, and the overall polymer is denoted with subscript for chain length.[13] This representational formula highlights the alternating segments essential to spandex's function.[11]Physical and Mechanical Properties
Spandex fibers exhibit exceptional elasticity, capable of elongating up to 400-800% of their original length before breaking, which far exceeds that of many other synthetic fibers and enables their use in high-stretch applications. The mechanical properties of spandex fibers, including elongation at break (typically 400-800%), are influenced by dry spinning parameters such as take-up speed, column temperature, air flow rate, and polymer solution concentration, allowing optimization for balanced strength and elongation. This property arises from the segmented polyurethane structure, where soft segments provide the extensibility. Recovery from such elongation is nearly perfect, with snap-back rates of 95-99% after stretching to 500%, minimizing permanent deformation and ensuring repeated performance without significant loss.[16][17] In terms of tensile strength, spandex offers a breaking tenacity of 0.5-1.0 g/denier, which is higher than natural rubber (approximately 0.2-0.5 g/denier) but lower than nylon (4-9 g/denier), providing a balance of durability and flexibility suitable for textile blending.[18] Key mechanical metrics further highlight its performance: the elastic modulus is low, typically 0.04-0.12 g/denier at 200% elongation, allowing easy stretching with minimal force; hysteresis, or energy loss during stretch-recovery cycles, is relatively low compared to rubber, reducing fatigue over multiple uses; and permanent set (residual deformation after stretching) is minimal, often below 5% after extended loading, ensuring shape retention.[19][20] Thermally, spandex maintains stability up to about 150-180°C, with a melting point ranging from 230-250°C, though prolonged exposure above 200°C can lead to decomposition.[21] It is lightweight, with a density of 1.1-1.3 g/cm³, contributing to comfortable, non-bulky garments.[22] However, spandex degrades under prolonged ultraviolet (UV) exposure, with yellowing and loss of elasticity occurring after extended sunlight contact unless stabilized.[23] The following table compares key properties of spandex to natural rubber, illustrating why spandex is preferred in modern textiles for its superior durability and versatility:| Property | Spandex | Natural Rubber |
|---|---|---|
| Elongation at Break | 400-800% | 500-700% |
| Tensile Strength | 0.5-1.0 g/denier | 0.2-0.5 g/denier |
| Elastic Recovery | 95-99% | 70-90% |
| Density | 1.1-1.3 g/cm³ | ~0.93 g/cm³ |
| UV Resistance | Moderate (degrades over time) | Poor |