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Goth subculture
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Goth is a music-based subculture that emerged in the United Kingdom in the early 1980s. Music historian David Cavanagh wrote that the "goth" term appeared in the British media in June 1983.
The subculture developed around gothic rock, a genre that evolved from post-punk while incorporating darker, more atmospheric elements. Post-punk artists who anticipated in the late 1970s the gothic rock genre and helped develop and shape the subculture include Siouxsie and the Banshees, Joy Division, Bauhaus and the Cure. The subculture also drew inspiration from literary and cinematic gothic traditions, including German Expressionism and classic horror (from Universal Monsters to Hammer horror), with a flair for theatricality and camp.
The goth subculture has survived much longer than others of the same era and has continued to diversify and spread throughout the world. Its imagery and cultural proclivities indicate influences from 19th-century Gothic fiction and from horror films. The scene is centered on music festivals, nightclubs, and organized meetings.
Styles of dress within the subculture draw on glam rock, punk, new wave and from the fashion of earlier periods such as the Victorian, Edwardian, and Belle Époque eras. The style most often includes dark (usually solid black) attire, dark makeup, and black hair.
Music
[edit]Origins and development
[edit]
The term gothic rock was coined by music critic John Stickney in 1967 to describe a meeting he had with Jim Morrison in a dimly lit wine-cellar, which he called "the perfect room to honor the Gothic rock of the Doors".[1] That same year, the Velvet Underground song "All Tomorrow's Parties" created a kind of "mesmerizing gothic-rock masterpiece" according to music historian Kurt Loder.[2]
In the late 1970s, the gothic adjective was used to describe the atmosphere of post-punk bands such as Siouxsie and the Banshees, Magazine, and Joy Division. In a live review about a Siouxsie and the Banshees' concert in July 1978, NME journalist Nick Kent wrote that, concerning their music, "[P]arallels and comparisons can now be drawn with gothic rock architects like the Doors and, certainly, early Velvet Underground".[3] In March 1979, in his review of Magazine's second album Secondhand Daylight, Kent noted that there was "a new austere sense of authority" in the music, with a "dank neo-Gothic sound".[4] Alexis Petridis of The Guardian wrote that the Banshees' second album Join Hands, featuring the single "Playground Twist" issued in July '79, included gothic audible musical signifiers such as "scything, effects-laden gitar, pounding tribal drums".[5] The term was also used by Joy Division's manager, Tony Wilson on 15 September in an interview for the BBC TV programme's Something Else. Wilson described Joy Division as "gothic" compared to the pop mainstream, right before a live performance of the band.[6] The term was later applied to "newer bands such as Bauhaus who had arrived in the wake of Joy Division and Siouxsie and the Banshees".[7] Bauhaus's first single issued in 1979, "Bela Lugosi's Dead", is retrospectively generally credited as the starting point of the gothic rock genre.[8]
In 1979, Sounds also described Joy Division as "Gothic" and "theatrical".[9] In February 1980, Melody Maker qualified the same band as "masters of this Gothic gloom".[10] Critic Jon Savage would later say that their singer Ian Curtis wrote "the definitive Northern Gothic statement".[11] However, it was not until the early 1980s that gothic rock became a coherent music subgenre within post-punk, and followers of these bands started to come together as a distinctly recognizable movement. They may have taken the "goth" mantle from a 1981 article published in UK rock weekly Sounds: "The face of Punk Gothique",[12] written by Steve Keaton. In a text about the audience of UK Decay, Keaton asked: "Could this be the coming of Punk Gothique? With Bauhaus flying in on similar wings could it be the next big thing?"[12]
Two nightclubs were important gathering places. The F Club night in Leeds in Northern England, which had opened in 1977 firstly as a punk club, became instrumental to the development of the goth subculture in the 1980s.[13] In July 1982, the opening of the Batcave[14] in London's Soho provided a prominent meeting point for the emerging scene, which was briefly labelled "positive punk" by the NME in a special issue with a front cover in February 1983. The scene and subculture was centered around London's Batcave, spearheaded by artists such as Rubella Ballet, Specimen and Sex Gang Children.[15]
On June 14, 1983, BBC radio DJ John Peel noted the NME had dropped the term "positive punk" and had now opted for "goth" to describe the scene and subculture.[16] Music historian David Cavanagh stated early goth bands "favoured a Lily Munster look in the hairstyles, clothes and make-up".[16]
Outside the British scene, deathrock developed in California during the late 1970s and early 1980s as a distinct branch of American punk rock, with acts such as Christian Death, Kommunity FK and 45 Grave at the forefront.[17]
Gothic genre
[edit]
The bands that defined and embraced the gothic rock genre included Bauhaus,[18] early Adam and the Ants,[19] the Cure,[20] the Birthday Party,[21], UK Decay, Virgin Prunes, Killing Joke, and the Damned.[22] Near the peak of this first generation of the gothic scene in 1983, The Face's Paul Rambali recalled that there were "several strong Gothic characteristics" in the music of Joy Division.[23] In 1984, Joy Division's bassist Peter Hook named Play Dead as one of their heirs: "If you listen to a band like Play Dead, who I really like, Joy Division played the same stuff that Play Dead are playing. They're similar."[24]

By the mid-1980s, bands began proliferating and became increasingly popular, including the Sisters of Mercy, the Mission, Alien Sex Fiend, the March Violets, Xmal Deutschland, the Membranes, and Fields of the Nephilim. Record labels like Factory, 4AD and Beggars Banquet released much of this music in Europe, and through a vibrant import music market in the US, the subculture grew, especially in New York and Los Angeles, California, where many nightclubs featured "gothic/industrial" nights and bands like Black Tape for a Blue Girl, Theatre of Ice, Human Drama and The Wake became key figures for the genre to expand on an nationwide level.[25] The popularity of 4AD bands resulted in the creation of similar US labels, such as Wax Trax! Records and Projekt.
The 1990s saw further growth for some 1980s bands and the emergence of many new acts, as well as new goth-centric U.S. record labels such as Cleopatra Records, among others. According to Dave Simpson of The Guardian, "[I]n the 90s, goths all but disappeared as dance music became the dominant youth cult".[26] As a result, the goth movement went underground and fractured into cyber goth, shock rock, industrial metal, gothic metal, and Medieval folk metal.[26] Marilyn Manson was seen as a "goth-shock icon" by Spin.[27]
Art, historical and cultural influences
[edit]The Goth subculture of the 1980s drew inspiration from a variety of sources. Some of them were modern or contemporary, others were centuries-old or ancient. Michael Bibby and Lauren M. E. Goodlad liken the subculture to a bricolage.[28] Among the music-subcultures that influenced it were punk, new wave, and glam.[28] But it also drew inspiration from B-movies, Gothic literature, horror films, vampire cults and traditional mythology. Among the mythologies that proved influential in Goth were Celtic mythology, Christian mythology, Egyptian mythology, and various traditions of Paganism.[28]
18th and 19th centuries' literary influences
[edit]The figures that the movement counted among its historic canon of ancestors were equally diverse. They included the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood, Friedrich Nietzsche (1844‒1900), Comte de Lautréamont (1846‒1870), Salvador Dalí (1904‒1989) and Jean-Paul Sartre (1905‒1980).[28] Writers that have had a significant influence on the movement also represent a diverse canon. They include Ann Radcliffe (1764‒1823), John William Polidori (1795‒1821), Edgar Allan Poe (1809‒1849), Sheridan Le Fanu (1814-1873), Bram Stoker (1847‒1912), Oscar Wilde (1854‒1900), H. P. Lovecraft (1890‒1937), Anne Rice (1941‒2021), William Gibson (1948‒), Ian McEwan (1948‒), Storm Constantine (1956‒2021), and Poppy Z. Brite (1967‒).[28]

Gothic literature is a genre of fiction that combines romance and dark elements to produce mystery, suspense, terror, horror and the supernatural. According to David H. Richter, settings were framed to take place at "...ruinous castles, gloomy churchyards, claustrophobic monasteries, and lonely mountain roads". Typical characters consisted of the cruel parent, sinister priest, courageous victor, and the helpless heroine, along with supernatural figures such as demons, vampires, ghosts, and monsters. Often, the plot focused on characters ill-fated, internally conflicted, and innocently victimized by harassing malicious figures. In addition to the dismal plot focuses, the literary tradition of the gothic was to also focus on individual characters that were gradually going insane.[29]
English author Horace Walpole, with his 1764 novel The Castle of Otranto is one of the first writers who explored this genre. The American Revolutionary War-era "American Gothic" story of the Headless Horseman, immortalized in "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow" (published in 1820) by Washington Irving, marked the arrival in the New World of dark, romantic storytelling. The tale was composed by Irving while he was living in England, and was based on popular tales told by colonial Dutch settlers of the Hudson Valley, New York. The story would be adapted to film in 1922,[30] in 1949 as the animated The Adventures of Ichabod and Mr. Toad,[31] and again in 1999.[32]
Throughout the evolution of the goth subculture, classic Romantic, Gothic and horror literature has played a significant role. E. T. A. Hoffmann, Edgar Allan Poe[33], Charles Baudelaire,[33] H. P. Lovecraft, and other tragic and Romantic writers have become as emblematic of the subculture[34] as the use of dark eyeliner or dressing in black. Baudelaire, in fact, in his preface to Les Fleurs du mal (Flowers of Evil) penned lines that could serve as a sort of goth malediction:[35]
C'est l'Ennui! —l'œil chargé d'un pleur involontaire,
Il rêve d'échafauds en fumant son houka.
Tu le connais, lecteur, ce monstre délicat,
—Hypocrite lecteur,—mon semblable,—mon frère!
It is Boredom! — an eye brimming with an involuntary tear,
He dreams of the gallows while smoking his water-pipe.
You know him, reader, this delicate monster,
—Hypocrite reader,—my twin,—my brother!
Visual art influences
[edit]
The gothic subculture has influenced different artists—not only musicians—but also painters and photographers. In particular their work is based on mystic, morbid and romantic motifs. In photography and painting the spectrum varies from erotic artwork to romantic images of vampires or ghosts. There is a marked preference for dark colours and sentiments, similar to Gothic fiction. At the end of the 19th century, painters like John Everett Millais and John Ruskin invented a new kind of Gothic.[36]
Films and television
[edit]
Some of the early gothic rock and deathrock artists adopted traditional horror film images and drew on horror film soundtracks for inspiration. Their audiences responded by adopting appropriate dress and props. Use of standard horror film props such as swirling smoke, rubber bats, and cobwebs featured as gothic club décor from the beginning in The Batcave. Such references in bands' music and images were originally tongue-in-cheek, but as time went on, bands and members of the subculture took the connection more seriously. As a result, morbid, supernatural and occult themes became more noticeably serious in the subculture. The interconnection between horror and goth was highlighted in its early days by The Hunger, a 1983 vampire film starring David Bowie, Catherine Deneuve and Susan Sarandon. The film featured gothic rock group Bauhaus performing Bela Lugosi's Dead in a nightclub. Tim Burton created a storybook atmosphere filled with darkness and shadow in some of his films like Beetlejuice (1988), Batman (1989), Edward Scissorhands (1990), Batman Returns (1992) and the stop motion films The Nightmare Before Christmas (1993), which was produced/co-written by Burton,
As the subculture became well-established, the connection between goth and horror fiction became almost a cliché, with goths quite likely to appear as characters in horror novels and film. For example, The Craft, The Crow, The Matrix and Underworld film series drew directly on goth music and style. The dark comedies Beetlejuice, The Faculty, American Beauty, Wedding Crashers, and a few episodes of the animated TV show South Park portray or parody the goth subculture. In South Park, several of the fictional schoolchildren are depicted as goths. The goth kids on the show are depicted as finding it annoying to be confused with the Hot Topic "vampire" kids from the episode "The Ungroundable" in season 12,[38][39] and even more frustrating to be compared with emo kids. The goth kids are usually depicted listening to gothic music, writing or reading Gothic poetry, drinking coffee, flipping their hair, and smoking.[40][41]
Morticia Addams from The Addams Family created by Charles Addams is a fictional character and the mother in the Addams Family. Morticia was played by Carolyn Jones in the 1964 television show The Addams Family and by Anjelica Huston in the 1991 version.
A recurring sketch in the 1990s on NBC's Saturday Night Live was Goth Talk, in which a public access channel broadcast hosted by unpopular young goths would continually be interrupted by the more "normal" kids in school. The sketch featured series regulars Will Ferrell, Molly Shannon, and Chris Kattan.
Characteristics of the scene
[edit]Icons
[edit]Goth icons include several bandleaders: Siouxsie Sioux of Siouxsie and the Banshees, Robert Smith of the Cure, Peter Murphy of Bauhaus, Dave Vanian of The Damned; Rozz Williams of Christian Death, Olli Wisdom leader of the band Specimen,[42] and keyboardist Jonathan Melton aka Jonny Slut, who evolved the Batcave style.[43] Nick Cave was dubbed as "the grand lord of gothic lushness".[44]
Fashion
[edit]Male and female references
[edit]One female role model is Theda Bara, the 1910s femme fatale known for her dark eyeshadow.[45][46]
Siouxsie was particularly influential on the dress style of the gothic rock scene; Paul Morley of NME described Siouxsie and the Banshees' 1980 gig at Futurama: "[Siouxsie was] modeling her newest outfit, the one that will influence how all the girls dress over the next few months. About half the girls at Leeds had used Sioux as a basis for their appearance, hair to ankle".[47] Other singers such as Nico, David Bowie[48] Robert Smith,[49] and Lux Interior[48] are also style icons, like pop culture figures such as Bettie Page, Vampira, Morticia Addams,[46] Musidora and Bela Lugosi,[50]
Styling
[edit]
Prior to the emergence of the scene in the early 1980s, Karl Lagerfeld had hosted in 1977 the Soirée Moratoire Noir party, specifying "tenue tragique noire absolument obligatoire" (black tragic dress absolutely required).[51] The event included elements associated with leatherman style.[51]
Gothic fashion is marked by conspicuously dark, antiquated and homogeneous features. It is stereotyped as eerie, mysterious, complex and exotic.[52] A dark, sometimes morbid fashion and style of dress,[48] typical gothic fashion includes colored black hair and black period-styled clothing.[48] Both male and female goths wear dark eyeliner and dark fingernail polish, most especially black. Styles are often borrowed from punk fashion and—more currently—from the Victorian and Elizabethan periods.[48] It also frequently expresses pagan, occult or other religious imagery.[53] Gothic fashion and styling may also feature silver jewelry and piercings.
Ted Polhemus described goth fashion as a "profusion of black velvets, lace, fishnets and leather tinged with scarlet or purple, accessorized with tightly laced corsets, gloves, precarious stilettos and silver jewelry depicting religious or occult themes".[54]
In contrast to the LARP-based Victorian and Elizabethan pomposity of the 2000s, the more Romantic side of 1980s trad-goth—mainly represented by women—was characterized by new wave/post-punk-oriented hairstyles (both long and short, partly shaved and teased) and street-compliant clothing, including black frill blouses, midi dresses or tea-length skirts, and floral lace tights, Dr. Martens, spike heels (pumps), and pointed toe buckle boots (winklepickers), sometimes supplemented with accessories such as bracelets, chokers and bib necklaces. This style, retroactively referred to as Ethergoth, took its inspiration from Siouxsie Sioux and mid-1980s musicians from the 4AD roster like Elizabeth Fraser and Lisa Gerrard.[55]
The New York Times noted: "The costumes and ornaments are a glamorous cover for the genre's somber themes. In the world of Goth, nature itself lurks as a malign protagonist, causing flesh to rot, rivers to flood, monuments to crumble and women to turn into slatterns, their hair streaming and lipstick askew".[52]
Cintra Wilson declares that the origins of the dark romantic style are found in the "Victorian cult of mourning."[56] Valerie Steele is an expert in the history of the style.[56]
Reciprocity with fashion designers
[edit]Goth fashion has a reciprocal relationship with the fashion world. The 1980s established designers such as Drew Bernstein of Lip Service, and the 1990s saw a surge of US-based gothic fashion designers, many of whom continue to evolve the style to the present day. Style magazines such as Gothic Beauty have given repeat features to a select few gothic fashion designers who began their labels in the 1990s, such as Kambriel, Rose Mortem, and Tyler Ondine of Heavy Red.[57]
In the later part of the first decade of the 21st century, designers such as Alexander McQueen,[56][58][59] Anna Sui,[60] Rick Owens,[59] Gareth Pugh, Ann Demeulemeester, Philipp Plein, Hedi Slimane, John Richmond, John Galliano,[56][58][59] Olivier Theyskens[59][61] and Yohji Yamamoto[59] brought elements of goth to runways.[56] This was described as "Haute Goth" by Cintra Wilson in the New York Times.[56]
Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Jean Paul Gaultier[52] and Christian Lacroix have also been associated with the fashion trend.[56][58] In Spring 2004, Riccardo Tisci, Jean Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons and Stefano Pilati dressed their models as "glamorous ghouls dressed in form-fitting suits and coal-tinted cocktail dresses".[61] Swedish designer Helena Horstedt and jewelry artist Hanna Hedman also practice a goth aesthetic.[62]
Books and magazines
[edit]A prominent American literary influence on the gothic scene was provided by Anne Rice's re-imagining of the vampire in 1976. In The Vampire Chronicles, Rice's characters were depicted as self-tormentors who struggled with alienation, loneliness, and the human condition. Not only did the characters torment themselves, but they also depicted a surreal world that focused on uncovering its splendour. These Chronicles assumed goth attitudes, but they were not intentionally created to represent the gothic subculture. Their romance, beauty, and erotic appeal attracted many goth readers, making her works popular from the 1980s through the 1990s.[63] While Goth has embraced Vampire literature both in its 19th century form and in its later incarnations, Rice's postmodern take on the vampire mythos has had a "special resonance" in the subculture. Her vampire novels feature intense emotions, period clothing, and "cultured decadence". Her vampires are socially alienated monsters, but they are also stunningly attractive. Rice's goth readers tend to envision themselves in much the same terms and view characters like Lestat de Lioncourt as role models.[28]
Richard Wright's novel Native Son contains gothic imagery and themes that demonstrate the links between blackness and the gothic; themes and images of "premonitions, curses, prophecies, spells, veils, demonic possessions, graves, skeletons" are present, suggesting gothic influence.[64] Other classic themes of the gothic are present in the novel, such as transgression and unstable identities of race, class, gender, and nationality.[64]
The re-imagining of the vampire continued with the release of Poppy Z. Brite's book Lost Souls in October 1992. Despite the fact that Brite's first novel was criticized by some mainstream sources for allegedly "lack[ing] a moral center: neither terrifyingly malevolent supernatural creatures nor (like Anne Rice's protagonists) tortured souls torn between good and evil, these vampires simply add blood-drinking to the amoral panoply of drug abuse, problem drinking and empty sex practiced by their human counterparts",[65] many of these so-called "human counterparts" identified with the teen angst and goth music references therein, keeping the book in print. Upon release of a special 10th anniversary edition of Lost Souls, Publishers Weekly—the same periodical that criticized the novel's "amorality" a decade prior—deemed it a "modern horror classic" and acknowledged that Brite established a "cult audience".[66]
The 2002 release 21st Century Goth by Mick Mercer, an author, noted music journalist and leading historian of gothic rock,[67][68][69] explored the modern state of the goth scene around the world, including South America, Japan, and mainland Asia. His previous 1997 release, Hex Files: The Goth Bible, similarly took an international look at the subculture.
In the US, Propaganda was a gothic subculture magazine founded in 1982. In Italy, Ver Sacrum covers the Italian goth scene, including fashion, sexuality, music, art and literature. Some magazines, such as the now-defunct Dark Realms[70] and Goth Is Dead included goth fiction and poetry. Other magazines cover fashion (e.g., Gothic Beauty); music (e.g., Severance) or culture and lifestyle (e.g., Althaus e-zine).
On 31 October 2011, ECW Press published the Encyclopedia Gothica[71] written by author and poet Liisa Ladouceur with illustrations done by Gary Pullin.[72][73][74][75] This non-fiction book describes over 600 words and phrases relevant to Goth subculture.
Brian Craddock's 2017 novel Eucalyptus Goth[76] charts a year in the life of a household of 20-somethings in Brisbane, Australia. The central characters are deeply entrenched in the local gothic subculture, with the book exploring themes relevant to the characters, notably unemployment, mental health, politics, and relationships.[77]
Graphic art
[edit]Visual contemporary graphic artists with this aesthetic include Gerald Brom, Dave McKean, and Trevor Brown as well as illustrators Edward Gorey, Charles Addams, Lorin Morgan-Richards, and James O'Barr. The artwork of Polish surrealist painter Zdzisław Beksiński is often described as gothic.[78] British artist Anne Sudworth published a book on gothic art in 2007.[79]
Events
[edit]
There are large annual goth-themed festivals in Germany, including Wave-Gotik-Treffen in Leipzig and M'era Luna in Hildesheim), both annually attracting tens of thousands of people. Castle Party is the biggest goth festival in Poland.[80]
Sociology
[edit]Gender and sexuality
[edit]Since the late 1970s, the UK goth scene refused "traditional standards of sexual propriety" and accepted and celebrated "unusual, bizarre or deviant sexual practices".[81] In the 2000s, many members "... claim overlapping memberships in the queer, polyamorous, bondage-discipline/sadomasochism, and pagan communities".[82]
Though sexual empowerment is not unique to women in the goth scene, it remains an important part of many goth women's experience: The "... [s]cene's celebration of active sexuality" enables goth women "... to resist mainstream notions of passive femininity". They have an "active sexuality" approach which creates "gender egalitarianism" within the scene, as it "allows them to engage in sexual play with multiple partners while sidestepping most of the stigma and dangers that women who engage in such behavior" outside the scene frequently incur, while continuing to "... see themselves as strong".[83]
Men dress up in an androgynous way: "... Men 'gender blend,' wearing makeup and skirts". In contrast, the "... women are dressed in sexy feminine outfits" that are "... highly sexualized" and which often combine "... corsets with short skirts and fishnet stockings". Androgyny is common among the scene: "... androgyny in Goth subcultural style often disguises or even functions to reinforce conventional gender roles". It was only "valorised" for male goths, who adopt a "feminine" appearance, including "make-up, skirts and feminine accessories" to "enhance masculinity" and facilitate traditional heterosexual courting roles.[84]
Identity
[edit]While goth is a music-based scene, the goth subculture is also characterized by particular aesthetics, outlooks, and a "way of seeing and of being seen". The last years, through social media, goths are able to meet people with similar interests, learn from each other, and finally, to take part in the scene. These activities on social media are the manifestation of the same practices which are taking place in goth clubs.[85] This is not a new phenomenon since before the rise of social media on-line forums had the same function for goths.[86] Observers have raised the issue of to what degree individuals are truly members of the goth subculture. On one end of the spectrum is the "Uber goth", a person who is described as seeking a pallor so much that they apply "...as much white foundation and white powder as possible".[87] On the other end of the spectrum exists what another writer terms "poseurs" - "goth wannabes, usually young kids going through a goth phase who do not hold to goth sensibilities but want to be part of the goth crowd".[88] It has been said that a "mall goth" is a teen who dresses in a goth style and spends time in malls with a Hot Topic store, but who does not know much about goth subculture or its music, thus making them a poseur.[89] In one case, even a well-known performer has been labelled with the pejorative term - a "number of goths, especially those who belonged to this subculture before the late-1980s, reject Marilyn Manson as a poseur who undermines the true meaning of goth".[90]
Media and academic commentary
[edit]The BBC described academic research that indicated that goths are "refined and sensitive, keen on poetry and books, not big on drugs or anti-social behaviour".[91] Teens often stay in the subculture "into their adult life", and they are likely to become well-educated and enter professions such as medicine or law.[91] The subculture carries on appealing to teenagers who are looking for meaning and for identity. The scene teaches teens that there are difficult aspects to life that you "have to make an attempt to understand" or explain.[92]
The Guardian reported that a "glue binding the [goth] scene together was drug use"; however, in the scene, drug use was varied. Goth is one of the few subculture movements that is not associated with a single drug,[33] in the way that the Hippie subculture is associated with cannabis and the Mod subculture is associated with amphetamines. A 2006 study of young goths found that those with higher levels of goth identification had higher drug use.[93]
Perception on nonviolence
[edit]A study conducted by the University of Glasgow, involving 1,258 youth interviewed at ages 11, 13, 15 and 19, found goth subculture to be strongly nonviolent and tolerant, thus providing "valuable social and emotional support" to teens vulnerable to self harm and mental illness.[94]
School shootings
[edit]In the weeks following the 1999 Columbine High School massacre, media reports about the teen gunmen, Eric Harris and Dylan Klebold, portrayed them as part of a gothic cult. An increased suspicion of goth subculture subsequently manifested in the media.[95] This led to a moral panic over teen involvement in goth subculture and a number of other activities, such as violent video games.[96] Harris and Klebold had initially been thought to be members of "The Trenchcoat Mafia"; an informal club within Columbine High School. Later, such characterizations were considered incorrect.[97]
Media reported that the gunman in the 2006 Dawson College shooting in Montreal, Quebec, Kimveer Singh Gill, was interested in goth subculture.[98] Gill's self-professed love of Goth culture was the topic of media interest, and it was widely reported that the word "Goth", in Gill's writings, was a reference to the alternative industrial and goth subculture rather than a reference to gothic rock music.[98] Gill, who committed suicide after the attack, wrote in his online journal: "I'm so sick of hearing about jocks and preps making life hard for the goths and others who look different, or are different".[99]
Mick Mercer stated that Gill was "not a Goth. Never a Goth. The bands he listed as his chosen form of ear-bashing were relentlessly metal and standard grunge, rock and goth metal, with some industrial presence". Mercer stated that "Kimveer Gill listened to metal", "He had nothing whatsoever to do with Goth" and further commented "I realise that like many Neos [neophyte], Kimveer Gill may even have believed he somehow was a Goth, because they're [Neophytes] only really noted for spectacularly missing the point".[100]
Prejudice and violence directed at goths
[edit]In part because of public misunderstanding surrounding gothic aesthetics, people in the goth subculture sometimes suffer prejudice, discrimination, and intolerance. As is the case with members of various other subcultures and alternative lifestyles, outsiders sometimes marginalize goths, either by intention or by accident.[101] Actress Christina Hendricks talked of being bullied as a goth at school and how difficult it was for her to deal with societal pressure: "Kids can be pretty judgmental about people who are different. But instead of breaking down and conforming, I stood firm. That is also probably why I was unhappy. My mother was mortified and kept telling me how horrible and ugly I looked. Strangers would walk by with a look of shock on their face, so I never felt pretty. I just always felt awkward".[102]
On 11 August 2007, while walking through Stubbylee Park in Bacup, Lancashire, a young couple, Sophie Lancaster and Robert Maltby, were attacked by a group of teenagers. Lancaster subsequently died from the severe head injuries she suffered in the attack.[103] It later emerged that the attackers had attacked the couple because they were goths. On 29 April 2008, two of the attackers, Ryan Herbert and Brendan Harris, were convicted for the murder of Lancaster and given life sentences. Three others were given lesser sentences for the assault on her boyfriend Robert Maltby. In delivering the sentence, Judge Anthony Russell stated, "This was a hate crime against these completely harmless people targeted because their appearance was different to yours". He went on to defend the goth community, calling goths "perfectly peaceful, law-abiding people who pose no threat to anybody".[104][105] Judge Russell added that he "recognised it as a hate crime without Parliament having to tell him to do so and had included that view in his sentencing".[106] Despite this ruling, a bill to add discrimination based on subculture affiliation to the definition of hate crime in British law was not presented to parliament.[107]
In 2013, police in Manchester announced they would be treating attacks on members of alternative subcultures, such as goths, the same as they do for attacks based on race, religion, and sexual orientation.[108]
A more recent phenomenon is the emergence of goth YouTubers who very often address the prejudice and violence against goths. These personalities create videos as a response to problems that they personally face, which include challenges such as bullying, and dealing with negative descriptions of themselves. Viewers often engage closely with these YouTubers, asking them for advice on how to deal with related personal struggles and getting responses in the form of personal messages or videos. These interactions take the form of an informal mentoring which contributes to the building of solidarity within the goth scene.[85]
Self-harm study
[edit]A study published on the British Medical Journal concluded that "identification as belonging to the Goth subculture [at some point in their lives] was the best predictor of self harm and attempted suicide [among young teens]", and that it was most possibly due to self-selection, with people committing self harm joining the goth subculture in order to get support from individuals with similar experiences.[93]
According to The Guardian, some goth teens are more likely to harm themselves or attempt suicide. A medical journal study of 1,300 Scottish schoolchildren until their teen years found that the 53% of the 25 goth teens sampled had attempted to harm themselves and 47% had attempted suicide. The study found that the "correlation was stronger than any other predictor".[109][110]
The authors held that most self-harm by teens was done before joining the subculture, and that joining the subculture would actually protect them and help them deal with distress in their lives, while cautioning that the study was based on a small sample size and needed replication to confirm the results.[110][111] The study was criticized for using only a small sample of goth teens and not taking into account other influences and differences between types of goths.[112][113][93]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]Citations
[edit]- ^ John Stickney (24 October 1967). "Four Doors to the Future: Gothic Rock Is Their Thing". The Williams Record. Posted at "The Doors : Articles & Reviews Year 1967". Mildequator.com. Archived from the original on 4 May 2013. Retrieved 3 October 2012.
"The Doors are not pleasant, amusing hippies proffering a grin and a flower; they wield a knife with a cold and terrifying edge. The Doors are closely akin to the national taste for violence, and the power of their music forces each listener to realize what violence is in himself".... "The Doors met New York for better or for worse at a press conference in the gloomy vaulted wine cellar of the Delmonico hotel, the perfect room to honor the Gothic rock of the Doors".
- ^ Loder, Kurt (December 1984). V.U. (album liner notes). Verve Records.
- ^ Kent, Nick (29 July 1978). "Banshees make the Breakthrough live review - London the Roundhouse 23 July 1978". NME.
- ^ Kent, Nick (31 March 1979). "Magazine's Mad Minstrels Gains Momentum (Album review)". NME. p. 31.
- ^ Petridis, Alexis (26 April 2012). "Goth for life". The Guardian. Retrieved 2 September 2017.
- ^ "Something Else [featuring Joy Division]". BBC television [archive added on youtube]. 15 September 1979. Archived from the original on 11 December 2021.
Because it is unsettling, it is like sinister and gothic, it won't be played. [interview of Joy Division's manager Tony Wilson next to Joy Division's drummer Stephen Morris from 3:31]
- ^ Reynolds 2005, p. 352.
- ^ Reynolds 2005, p. 432.
- ^ Des Moines (26 October 1979). "Live review by Des Moines (Joy Division Leeds)". Sounds.
Curtis may project like an ambidextrous barman puging his physical hang-ups, but the 'Gothic dance music' he orchestrates is well-understood by those who recognise their New Wave frontiersmen and know how to dance the Joy Division! A theatrical sense of timing, controlled improvisation...
- ^ Bohn, Chris. "Northern gloom: 2 Southern stomp: 1. (Joy Division: University of London Union – Live Review)". Melody Maker (16 February 1980).
Joy Division are masters of this Gothic gloom
- ^ Savage, Jon (July 1994). "Joy Division: Someone Take These Dreams Away". Mojo via Rock's Backpages (subscription required). Retrieved 10 July 2014.
a definitive Northern Gothic statement: guilt-ridden, romantic, claustrophobic
- ^ a b Keaton, Steve (21 February 1981). "The Face of Punk Gothique". Sounds.
- ^ Spracklen, Karl; Spracklen, Beverley (2018). The Evolution of Goth Culture: The Origins and Deeds of the New Goths. Emerald Publishing. p. 46.
The F-Club and the Futurama festival, both set up and run by Leeds promoter, John Keenan, have become entrenched in the shared memory of post-punks and goths as spaces where goth rock was born in the form it is now known.
Stewart, Ethan (13 January 2021). "How Leeds Led Goth". PopMatters. Retrieved 3 June 2021.
Deboick, Sophia (17 September 2020). "A City in Music - Leeds: Goth ground zero". The New European. Archived from the original on 22 January 2021. Retrieved 3 June 2021. - ^ Johnson, David (February 1983). "69 Dean Street: The Making of Club Culture". The Face. No. 34. p. 26. Retrieved 7 April 2018.
- ^ North, Richard (19 February 1983). "Punk Warriors". NME.
- ^ a b Cavanagh, David (2015). Good Night and Good Riddance: How Thirty-Five Years of John Peel Helped to ... Faber & Faber. p. 699. ISBN 978-0-571-32789-8.
- ^ Ohanesian, Liz (4 November 2009). "The LA Deathrock Starter Guide". LA Weekly. Archived from the original on 14 July 2014. Retrieved 10 July 2014.
- ^ Reynolds 2005, p. 429.
- ^ Reynolds 2005, p. 421.
- ^ Mason, Stewart. "Pornography – The Cure : Songs, Reviews, Credits, Awards : AllMusic". AllMusic. Retrieved 27 October 2012.
- ^ Reynolds 2005, p. 431.
- ^ Reynolds 2005, p. 435.
- ^ Rambali, Paul. "A Rare Glimpse into A Private World". The Face (July 1983).
Curtis' death wrapped an already mysterious group in legend. From the press eulogies, you would think Curtis had gone to join Chatterton, Rimbaud and Morrison in the hallowed hall of premature harvests. To a group with several strong Gothic characteristics was added a further piece of romance.
- ^ Houghton, Jayne (June 1984). "Crime Pays!". ZigZag. p. 21.
- ^ "Dark Nights: Goth Didn't Die in the '80s — It's Multiplied". Los Angeleno. 1 November 2019. Archived from the original on 21 January 2023. Retrieved 21 January 2023.
- ^ a b Simpson, Dave (29 September 2006). "Back in black: Goth has risen from the dead - and the 1980s pioneers are (naturally) not happy about it". The Guardian. Retrieved 26 October 2022.
- ^ Klosterman, Chuck (June 2003), "Who: Marilyn Manson", Spin
- ^ a b c d e f Goodlad & Bibby 2007.
- ^ Richter 1987.
- ^ Koszarski 1994, p. 140.
- ^ "The American Film Institute, catalog of motion pictures, Volume 1, Part 1, Feature films 1941-1950, The Adventures of Ichabod and Mr Toad"
- ^ Roger Ebert (19 November 1999). "Sleepy Hollow". Chicago Sun-Times. Archived from the original on 22 July 2012. Retrieved 1 November 2010.
- ^ a b c Simpson, Dave (29 September 2006). "Back in black: Goth has risen from the dead - and the 1980s pioneers are (naturally) not happy about it". The Guardian. Retrieved 14 July 2014. "Severin admits his band (Siouxsie and the Banshees) pored over gothic literature - Edgar Allan Poe and Charles Baudelaire".
- ^ Goodlad & Bibby 2007, p. 14.
- ^ Kilpatrick 2004, p. 210.
- ^ Spuybroek 2011, p. 42.
- ^ Ladouceur 2011, pp. 137–138.
- ^ Modell, Josh (19 November 2008). "The Ungroundable". The A.V. Club.
- ^ Fickett, Travis (20 November 2008). "IGN: The Ungroundable Review". IGN. News Corporation. Retrieved 2008-11-23.
- ^ Modell, Josh (19 November 2008). "The Ungroundable". The A.V. Club. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
- ^ "FAQ Archives: Why aren't the goth kids in the class w/ the rest of the kids when they show them all at their desk?". South Park Studios. 6 May 2004. Archived from the original on 6 March 2009. Retrieved 23 November 2008.
- ^ Johnson, David (1 February 1983). "69 Dean Street: The Making of Club Culture". The Face (issue 34, page 26, republished at Shapersofthe80s.com). Retrieved 7 April 2018.
- ^ Harriman, Andi; Bontje, Marloes: Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace. The Worldwide Compendium of Post Punk and Goth in the 1980s, Intellect Books 2014, ISBN 1-783-20352-8, p. 66
- ^ Stevens, Jenny (15 February 2013). "Push The Sky Away". NME. Retrieved 21 February 2013.
- ^ Hannaham 1997, p. 93
- ^ a b Steele & Park 2008, p. 26
- ^ Reynolds, p. 425.
- ^ a b c d e Grunenberg 1997, p. 172
- ^ Hannaham 1997, p. 113
- ^ Steele & Park 2008, p. 18
- ^ a b Steele & Park 2008, p. 35
- ^ a b c La Ferla, Ruth (30 October 2005). "Embrace the Darkness". The New York Times. Retrieved 25 January 2012.
- ^ Eric Lipton Disturbed Shooters Weren't True Goth from the Chicago Tribune, 27 April 1999
- ^ Polhemus, Ted (1994). Street Style. London: Thames & Hudson. p. 97. Cited in Mellins 2013, pp. 17–18.
- ^ Aurelio Voltaire Hernandez: What Is Goth?, Publishers Group UK, ISBN 1-578-63322-2
"Serene, thoughtful and creative, ethergoths are defined by their affinity ... darkwave and classically inspired Gothic music. Ethergoths are more likely to be found sipping tea, writing poetry and listening to the Cocteau Twins than jumping up and down at a club." - ^ a b c d e f g Wilson, Cintra (17 September 2008). "You just can't kill it". The New York Times. Retrieved 18 September 2008.
- ^ Holiday, Steven, ed. (12 December 2014). "Home". Gothic Beauty. Portland, OR: Holiday Media. Retrieved 12 December 2014.
- ^ a b c Grunenberg 1997, p. 173
- ^ a b c d e Steele & Park 2008, p. 3
- ^ Bolton, Andrew (2013). Anna Sui. New York: Chronicle Books. pp. 100–109. ISBN 978-1452128597 – via Google Books.
- ^ a b La Ferla, Ruth: "Embrace the Darkness". New York Times, 30 October 2005. [1]
- ^ Johanna Lenander, "Swede and Sour: Scandinavian Goth," New York Times: T Magazine, 27 March 2009. [2] Access date: 29 March 2009.
- ^ Jones 2015, pp. 179–204.
- ^ a b Smethurst, James (Spring 2001). "Invented by Horror: The Gothic and African American Literary Ideology in Native Son". African American Review. 35 (1): 29–30. doi:10.2307/2903332. JSTOR 2903332.
- ^ "Fiction Book Review: Lost Souls by Poppy Z. Brite". publishersweekly.com. 31 August 1992. Retrieved 18 March 2012.
- ^ "Fiction review: The American Fantasy Tradition by Brian M. Thomsen". publishersweekly.com. 1 September 2002. Retrieved 18 March 2012.
- ^ Blu Interview with Mick Mercer Starvox.net
- ^ Kyshah Hell Interview with Mick Mercer Morbidoutlook.com
- ^ Mick Mercer Archived 9 April 2007 at the Wayback Machine Broken Ankle Books
- ^ Dark Realms
- ^ Liisa., Ladouceur (2011). Encyclopedia Gothica. Pullin, Gary. Toronto: ECW Press. ISBN 978-1770410244. OCLC 707327955.
- ^ "Book Review: Encyclopedia Gothica, by Liisa Ladouceur". National Post. 11 November 2011. Retrieved 7 March 2018.
- ^ Rouner, Jef (28 October 2011). "Encyclopedia Gothica: Liisa Ladouceur Explains It All". Houston Press. Archived from the original on 7 March 2018. Retrieved 7 March 2018.
- ^ "Book Review: 'Encyclopedia Gothica' - Liisa Ladouceur - Terrorizer". Terrorizer. 3 January 2012. Retrieved 7 March 2018.
- ^ "REVIEW: Encyclopedia Gothica - Macleans.ca". Macleans.ca. 2 November 2011. Retrieved 7 March 2018.
- ^ Goodreads Eucalyptus Goth
- ^ Renae Holyoak A Love Letter to Brisbane Archived 27 January 2021 at the Wayback Machine Outback Revue
- ^ "The Cursed Paintings of Zdzisław Beksiński". Culture.pl. Retrieved 18 October 2018.
- ^ Sudworth 2007.
- ^ "Castle Party Festival". castleparty.com.
- ^ Siegel 2007, p. 350.
- ^ Wilkins 2004.
- ^ Wilkins 2004, p. 329.
- ^ Spooner, Catherine (28 May 2009). "Goth Culture: Gender, Sexuality and Style". Times Higher Education. Retrieved 25 July 2014.
- ^ a b Karampampas, Panas (13 September 2020). "Goth YouTubers and the informal mentoring of young goths: peer support and solidarity in the Greek goth scene". Journal of Youth Studies. 23 (8): 989–1003. doi:10.1080/13676261.2019.1646892. ISSN 1367-6261. S2CID 200084598.
- ^ Hodkinson, Paul (2002). Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture. Berg Publishers. doi:10.2752/9781847888747/goth0012. ISBN 978-1-84788-874-7.
- ^ Goodlad & Bibby 2007, p. 36.
- ^ Kilpatrick 2004, p. 24.
- ^ Ladouceur 2011.
- ^ Siegel 2007, p. 344.
- ^ a b Winterman, Denise. "Upwardly gothic". BBC News Magazine.
- ^ Morgan, Fiona (16 December 1998). "The devil in your family room". Salon. Retrieved 25 July 2014.
- ^ a b c Young, Sweeting & West 2006.
- ^ "Goth subculture may protect vulnerable children". New Scientist. 14 April 2006. Retrieved 25 April 2009.
- ^ Goldberg, Carey (1 May 1999). "For Those Who Dress Differently, an Increase in Being Viewed as Abnormal". The New York Times. Retrieved 15 October 2014.
- ^ Janelle Brown (23 April 1999). "Doom, Quake and mass murder". Salon. Archived from the original on 19 September 2008. Retrieved 24 August 2008.
- ^ Cullen, Dave (23 September 1999). "Inside the Columbine High investigation". Salon. Retrieved 15 October 2014.
- ^ a b 14 September 2006. Shooting by Canadian trench coat killer affects industrial / goth scene Archived 19 February 2013 at the Wayback Machine Side-line.com. Retrieved on 13 March 2007.
- ^ "Chronologie d'un folie (Kimveer's online Journal)". La Presse. 15 September 2006. Archived from the original on 11 October 2016. Retrieved 27 July 2016.
- ^ Mercer, Mick (23 March 2007). Mick Mercer talks about Kimveer Gill mickmercer.livejournal.com. Archived from the original on 9 November 2017.
- ^ Goldberg, Carey (1 May 1999). "Terror in Littleton: The Shunned; For Those Who Dress Differently, an Increase in Being Viewed as Abnormal". The New York Times. Retrieved 18 March 2012.
- ^ "Christina Hendricks: 'I was bullied at school for being a goth'". 17 February 2012. Archived from the original on 11 January 2022.
- ^ "Goth couple badly hurt in attack". BBC News-UK. 11 August 2007. Retrieved 18 March 2012.
- ^ Byrne, Paul (29 April 2008). "Life jail trms for teenage thugs who killed goth girl". dailyrecord.co.uk. Retrieved 18 March 2012.
- ^ Pilling, Kim (29 April 2008). "Two teenagers sentenced to life over murder of Goth". Independent.co.uk. Archived from the original on 12 November 2012. Retrieved 18 March 2012.
- ^ Henfield, Sally (29 April 2008). "Sophie's family and friends vow to carry on campaign". lancashiretelegraph.co.uk. Retrieved 18 March 2012.[permanent dead link]
- ^ Smyth, Catherine (4 April 2008). "Call for hate crimes law change". manchestereveningnews.co.uk. Retrieved 18 March 2012.
- ^ "Manchester goths get police protection". 3 News NZ. 5 April 2013. Archived from the original on 15 March 2015.
- ^ Polly Curtis and John Carvel. "Teen goths more prone to suicide, study shows". The Guardian, Friday 14 April 2006
- ^ a b "Goths 'more likely to self-harm'". BBC. 13 April 2006. Retrieved 18 March 2012.
- ^ Gaia Vince (14 April 2006). "Goth subculture may protect vulnerable children". New Scientist. Retrieved 18 March 2012.
- ^ Taubert, Mark; Kandasamy, Jothy (2006). "Self Harm in Goth Youth Subculture: Conclusion Relates Only to Small Sample". BMJ (letter to the editor). 332 (7551): 1216. doi:10.1136/bmj.332.7551.1216. PMC 1463972. PMID 16710018.
- ^ Phillipov, Michelle (2006). "Self Harm in Goth Youth Subculture: Study Merely Reinforces Popular Stereotypes". BMJ (letter to the editor). 332 (7551): 1215–1216. doi:10.1136/bmj.332.7551.1215-b. PMC 1463947. PMID 16710012.
Bibliography
[edit]- Goodlad, Lauren M. E.; Bibby, Michael (2007). "Introduction". In Goodlad, Lauren M. E.; Bibby, Michael (eds.). Goth: Undead Subculture. Durham, North Carolina: Duke University Press. pp. 1–37. ISBN 978-0-8223-8970-5.
- Grunenberg, Christoph (1997). "Unsolved Mysteries: Gothic Tales from Frankenstein to the Hair Eating Doll". Gothic: Transmutations of Horror in Late-Twentieth-Century Art. Boston: Mit Press. ISBN 978-0-262-57128-9.
- Hannaham, James (1997). "Bela Lugosi's Dead and I Don't Feel So Good Either: Goth and the Glorification of Suffering in Rock Music". Gothic: Transmutations of Horror in Late-Twentieth-Century Art. Boston: Mit Press. ISBN 978-0-262-57128-9.
- Jones, Timothy (2015). The Gothic and the Gothic Carnivalesque in American Culture. Cardiff, Wales: University of Wales Press. ISBN 978-1-78316-230-7. JSTOR j.ctt17w8hdq.
- Kilpatrick, Nancy (2004). Goth Bible: A Compendium for the Darkly Inclined. New York: St. Martin's Griffin. ISBN 978-0-312-30696-0.
- Koszarski, Richard (1994). An Evening's Entertainment: The Age of the Silent Feature Picture, 1915–1928. Berkeley, California: University of California Press. ISBN 978-0-520-08535-0.
- Ladouceur, Liisa (2011). Encyclopedia Gothica. Illustrated by Pullin, Gary. Toronto: ECW Press.
- Mellins, Maria (2013). Vampire Culture. London: Bloomsbury Academic. ISBN 978-1-4725-0385-5.
- Pokhrel, Pallav; Sussman, Steven; Black, David; Sun, Ping (2010). "Peer Group Self-Identification as a Predictor of Relational and Physical Aggression Among High School Students". Journal of School Health. 80 (5): 249–258. doi:10.1111/j.1746-1561.2010.00498.x. PMC 3134410. PMID 20529198.
- Reynolds, Simon (2005). Rip It Up and Start Again: Postpunk 1978–1984. London: Faber and Faber. ISBN 978-0-571-21569-0.
- Richter, David H. (1987). "Gothic Fantasia: The Monsters and The Myths: A Review-Article". The Eighteenth Century. 28 (2): 149–170. ISSN 0193-5380. JSTOR 41467717.
- Rutledge, Carolyn M.; Rimer, Don; Scott, Micah (2008). "Vulnerable Goth Teens: The Role of Schools in This Psychosocial High-Risk Culture". Journal of School Health. 78 (9): 459–464. doi:10.1111/j.1746-1561.2008.00331.x. ISSN 1746-1561. PMID 18786038.
- Siegel, Carol (2007). "That Obscure Object of Desire Revisited: Poppy Z. Brite and the Goth Hero as Masochist". In Goodlad, Lauren M. E.; Bibby, Michael (eds.). Goth: Undead Subculture. Durham, North Carolina: Duke University Press. pp. 335–356. ISBN 978-0-8223-8970-5.
- Spuybroek, Lars (2011). The Sympathy of Things: Ruskin and the Ecology of Design. Rotterdam, Netherlands: V2_Publishing. ISBN 978-90-5662-827-7.
- Steele, Valerie; Park, Jennifer (21 October 2008). Gothic: Dark Glamour. Yale University Press. ISBN 978-0300136944.
- Sudworth, Anne (2007). Gothic Fantasies: The Paintings of Anne Sudworth. London: AAPPL Artists' and Photographers' Press. ISBN 978-1-904332-56-5.
- Wilkins, Amy C. (2004). "'So Full of Myself as a Chick': Goth Women, Sexual Independence, and Gender Egalitarianism" (PDF). Gender & Society. 8 (3): 328–349. CiteSeerX 10.1.1.413.9162. doi:10.1177/0891243204264421. ISSN 0891-2432. JSTOR 4149405. S2CID 11244993. Archived (PDF) from the original on 16 July 2016.
- Young, Robert; Sweeting, Helen; West, Patrick (2006). "Prevalence of Deliberate Self Harm and Attempted Suicide within Contemporary Goth Youth Subculture: Longitudinal Cohort Study". BMJ. 332 (7549): 1058–1061. doi:10.1136/bmj.38790.495544.7C. ISSN 1756-1833. PMC 1458563. PMID 16613936.
Further reading
[edit]- Baddeley, Gavin (2002). Goth Chic: A Connoisseur's Guide to Dark Culture. Plexus. ISBN 978-0-85965-308-4.
- Brill, Dunja (2008). Goth Culture: Gender, Sexuality and Style. Oxford: Berg Publishers.
- Catalyst, Clint (2000). Cottonmouth Kisses. San Francisco, California: Manic D Press. ISBN 978-0-916397-65-4.
A first-person account of an individual's life within the Goth subculture. - Davenport-Hines, Richard (1999). Gothic: Four Hundred Years of Excess, Horror, Evil and Ruin. New York: North Port Press. ISBN 978-0-86547-590-8.
A chronological/aesthetic history of Goth covering the spectrum from Gothic architecture to the Cure. - Digitalis, Raven (2007). Goth Craft: The Magickal Side of Dark Culture. Woodbury, Minnesota: Llewellyn Publications. ISBN 978-0-7387-1104-1.
Includes a lengthy explanation of Gothic history, music, fashion, and proposes a link between mystic/magical spirituality and dark subcultures. - Fuentes Rodríguez, César (2007). Mundo Gótico (in Spanish). Quarentena Ediciones. ISBN 978-84-933891-6-1.
Covering literature, music, cinema, BDSM, fashion, and subculture topics. - Groom, Nick (2012). "First and last and always". The Gothic: A Very Short Introduction. Oxford: Oxford University Press. pp. 132–143. doi:10.1093/actrade/9780199586790.003.0013. ISBN 9780191777905.
- Hodkinson, Paul (2002). Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture. Oxford: Berg Publishers. ISBN 978-1-85973-600-5.
- ——— (2005). "Communicating Goth: On-line Media". In Gelder, Ken (ed.). The Subcultures Reader (2nd ed.). London: Routledge. pp. 567–574. ISBN 978-0-415-34416-6.
- Mason, Diane (2012). "Goth". The Encyclopedia of the Gothic. John Wiley & Sons. doi:10.1002/9781118398500.wbeotgg006. ISBN 978-1-4051-8290-4.
An examination of the semantic evolution of the term "Goth" from its historical origin to its modern application to a music and style subculture that emerged from punk in the 20th century. - Mercer, Mick (1996). Hex Files: The Goth Bible. London: Batsford. ISBN 978-0-7134-8033-7.
An international survey of the Goth scene. - ——— (2002). 21st Century Goth. London: Reynolds & Hearn. ISBN 978-1-903111-28-4.
An exploration of the modern state of the Goth subculture worldwide. - Robb, John (2023). The Art of Darkness: The History of Goth. Louder Than War Books. ISBN 978-1-914424-86-1.
- Scharf, Natasha (2011). Worldwide Gothic: A Chronicle of a Tribe. Church Stretton, England: Independent Music Press. ISBN 978-1-906191-19-1.
A global view of the goth scene from its birth in the late 1970s to the present day. - Siegel, Carol (2005). Goth's Dark Empire. Bloomington: Indiana University Press. ISBN 9780253217769.
An exploration of the connections between the Goth subculture and sexual identity, transgression, and alternative expressions of desire. - Spooner, Catherine (2012). "Goth Culture". In Punter, David (ed.). A New Companion to the Gothic. John Wiley & Sons. pp. 350–365. doi:10.1002/9781444354959.ch24. ISBN 978-1-4443-5495-9.
- Vas, Abdul (2012). For Those About to Power. Madrid: T.F. Editores. ISBN 978-84-15253-52-5.
- Venters, Jillian (2009). Gothic Charm School: An Essential Guide for Goths and Those Who Love Them. Illustrated by Venters, Pete. New York: HarperCollins. ISBN 978-0-06-166916-3.
An etiquette guide to "gently persuade others in her chosen subculture that being a polite Goth is much, much more subversive than just wearing T-shirts with "edgy" sayings on them". - Voltaire (2004). What is Goth?. Boston: Weiser Books. ISBN 978-1-57863-322-7.
An illustrated view of the goth subculture.
Goth subculture
View on GrokipediaOrigins and Historical Development
Post-Punk Roots in the Late 1970s
The goth subculture took root in the United Kingdom's post-punk scene of the late 1970s, as musicians and fans diverged from punk's raw aggression toward more introspective, atmospheric expressions of alienation and darkness. Emerging in the wake of punk's 1977 peak, post-punk incorporated experimental structures, dub-influenced basslines, and lyrical themes drawn from existential dread and gothic literary motifs, fostering an environment where goth's sonic and visual hallmarks began to coalesce. Bands operating in this milieu, such as Siouxsie and the Banshees and Magazine, cultivated a brooding intensity that contrasted punk's immediacy, with early use of the term "gothic" applied to their moody atmospheres by 1978.[7] Siouxsie and the Banshees, formed in London in 1976, played a pivotal role through their fusion of punk's edge with tribal percussion, angular guitars, and Siouxsie Sioux's striking, androgynous appearance featuring heavy eyeliner and elaborate hairstyles. Their debut single "Hong Kong Garden," released in September 1978, reached number 7 on the UK Singles Chart and introduced rhythmic hypnosis and exotic instrumentation that influenced subsequent goth developments, though the band resisted strict genre labels.[8][9] Sioux's visual style, evoking 1960s icons like Nico while amplifying dramatic flair, became a template for goth fashion's emphasis on pale skin, dark lips, and theatrical attire. Bauhaus solidified these tendencies with "Bela Lugosi's Dead," recorded on January 26, 1979, at Beck Studios and released as a 12-inch single in August 1979 on Small Wonder Records. Clocking in at over nine minutes, the track's sparse, echoing production, funereal tempo, and lyrics referencing the vampire actor Bela Lugosi established goth's archetypal sound of hypnotic repetition and macabre imagery, earning it designation as the genre's foundational recording by contemporaries and later analysts.[10][11][12] Joy Division, originating in Manchester in 1976, contributed to the proto-goth palette via their debut album Unknown Pleasures, released June 15, 1979, on Factory Records, featuring stark, industrial textures and Ian Curtis's baritone explorations of despair on tracks like "Disorder" and "She's Lost Control." While primarily post-punk, their austere aesthetic and thematic focus on isolation prefigured goth's emotional core, with some early observers applying "gothic" descriptors to their live performances and imagery.[13][14] These elements, shared across disparate acts, crystallized in underground venues and fanzines, setting the stage for goth's distinct identity by 1980.Emergence in the 1980s
The goth subculture coalesced in the early 1980s in the United Kingdom, distinguishing itself from the broader post-punk movement through a darker aesthetic and sonic palette emphasizing atmospheric tension and themes of melancholy, death, and the macabre.[15] This development occurred amid socioeconomic decline and political shifts under Thatcherism, providing a cultural counterpoint to mainstream optimism.[15] Pioneering bands like Bauhaus, with their August 1979 debut single "Bela Lugosi's Dead"—a 9-minute track blending dub rhythms, sparse guitars, and vampire imagery—laid foundational sonic elements, though the subculture's communal identity solidified later.[10] Central to this emergence was the opening of the Batcave nightclub in London's Soho district on July 21, 1982, founded by Olli Wisdom of the band Specimen and initially hosted at the Gargoyle Club on Dean Street.[16] [17] The venue served as a nexus for post-punk enthusiasts seeking alternatives to punk's aggression, fostering a scene where attendees experimented with androgynous black attire, pale makeup, and backcombed hair inspired by 1960s icons like Nico and literary gothic figures.[16] Siouxsie and the [Banshees](/page/Sioux sie_and_the_Banshees), formed in 1976 but peaking in influence during this period with albums like Juju (1981), exemplified the shift; their tribal rhythms, Siouxsie Sioux's dramatic visuals, and ethereal vocals helped define gothic rock's hypnotic style.[14] The term "goth" gained traction in music journalism around 1980-1982 to describe this evolving sound, first applied to bands like Joy Division by Factory Records founder Tony Wilson and later to acts such as Bauhaus and Siouxsie and the Banshees.[18] By mid-decade, the subculture had spread beyond London to cities like Leeds and Manchester, with events like the 1982 Festival of the Ninth Dream further cementing its identity through performances by emerging groups.[19] Bands including The Cure contributed with introspective releases like Pornography (1982), amplifying the scene's emotional depth, though frontman Robert Smith later rejected the "goth" label as reductive.[20] This period marked goth's transition from fringe post-punk offshoot to a self-aware subculture, characterized by DIY fashion and nocturnal club rituals.[15]Expansion and Mainstreaming in the 1990s
The goth subculture expanded in the 1990s through a second wave of musical acts that built on 1980s foundations, alongside the proliferation of specialized record labels. Cleopatra Records, established in 1992 by Brian Perera, focused on goth, industrial, and related genres, releasing material from acts like Christian Death and fostering U.S.-based growth in the scene.[21] Bands such as Concrete Blonde gained mainstream alternative radio play with their third album Bloodletting (1990), certified gold by the RIAA for 500,000 units sold, including the track "Joey" which reached number 19 on the Billboard Hot 100.[22] Type O Negative's Bloody Kisses (1993) achieved similar commercial penetration, selling over 1 million copies in the United States and blending gothic rock with doomy metal elements.[23] Dedicated events solidified community ties and visibility. The first Whitby Goth Weekend occurred in 1994 in Whitby, England, drawing on the town's association with Bram Stoker's Dracula and evolving into a biannual festival with live music, markets, and gatherings that attracted thousands by decade's end.[24] This period also marked increased fragmentation into substyles like darkwave and gothic metal, as noted in analyses of generational shifts within the subculture.[5] Mainstreaming manifested in fashion and media, introducing goth motifs to wider audiences via retail and film. Hot Topic, operational since 1988, expanded in the 1990s as a mall retailer stocking black clothing, band merchandise, and accessories appealing to "mall goths," thereby commercializing elements of the subculture's aesthetic.[25] The film The Crow (1994), with its pale-faced protagonist in leather and vengeance narrative, exerted notable influence on goth fashion and imagery, including makeup and attire, while its soundtrack featured contributions from bands like The Cure.[26] These developments broadened participation but sparked debates among adherents about authenticity amid commercial co-optation.[27]Fragmentation and Subgenres in the 2000s
In the 2000s, the goth subculture fragmented as broader access to digital platforms and cross-pollination with adjacent scenes eroded a singular identity, leading to specialized subgenres that emphasized niche aesthetics and sounds over unified cohesion. This diversification responded to perceived stagnation in mainstream goth acts, with critics noting many bands produced derivative material lacking the innovation of earlier eras, prompting underground revivals focused on specific historical branches like deathrock.[28] The rise of online forums and early social media further accelerated this splintering by allowing isolated groups to cultivate distinct practices, though it also amplified debates over authenticity amid encroaching commercial dilutions from emo and scene cultures. Prominent subgenres included cyber-goth, which fused gothic motifs with rave and industrial elements, featuring bright fluorescent hair, PVC clothing, rubber materials, and accessories like goggles for a futuristic edge.[29] Costume-goth, by contrast, prioritized theatrical elaboration with long layered garments, satin corsets, and gloves, appealing to romantic and historical revivalists. Bands such as Cinema Strange and Elusive exemplified persistent traditionalism through raw, post-punk-inflected gothic rock, while acts like Phantom Vision explored dark alternative hybrids, sustaining underground vitality against dominant electronic and metal crossovers.[28] Festivals played a pivotal role in accommodating this variety, with events drawing large crowds to showcase fragmented expressions from core gothic rock to experimental fusions. Early 2000s saw increased mass attendance at alternative music gatherings, where subgenre adherents converged despite stylistic divergences, reinforcing community bonds amid external pressures like post-Columbine media scrutiny that prompted more insular behaviors.[30] This era's subgenres thus reflected adaptive resilience, prioritizing sonic and visual experimentation over homogeneity, though it challenged the subculture's original post-punk purity.[31]Resurgence and Adaptation from 2010s to 2025
The goth subculture underwent a notable resurgence in the 2010s, driven by enhanced online access to post-punk and goth archives, which enabled younger participants to rediscover foundational sounds amid a broader revival of indie and darkwave genres. This era featured emerging bands such as Boy Harsher, Choir Boy, and She Past Away, which fused traditional gothic rock with minimalist electronics and contemporary production techniques, attracting new adherents through platforms like Bandcamp and streaming services.[32][28] In the 2020s, Generation Z propelled further adaptation, integrating goth elements with mainstream media influences including Tim Burton's Wednesday Netflix series (2022) and Beetlejuice Beetlejuice (2024), alongside The Cure's chart-topping album Songs of a Lost World released in November 2024. New acts like Heartworms, with their album Glutton for Punishment, and Tristwch Y Fenywod, releasing in 2024, exemplified this evolution by maintaining gothic themes of alienation while appealing to broader indie audiences.[33] TikTok's GothTok community surged during the COVID-19 pandemic, facilitating viral sharing of makeup tutorials, outfit inspirations, and music playlists that democratized entry into the subculture.[33] Traditional events persisted and adapted, with Whitby Goth Weekend—held biannually since 1994—marking its 30th anniversary in 2024 by drawing thousands of international attendees for music performances, markets, and themed gatherings in Whitby, England, generating over £1 million in annual economic impact for the town.[24] This continuity underscores goth's resilience as a space for diverse expressions, encompassing over 35 stylistic variations and age ranges from children to those in their 90s, while supporting initiatives like the Sophie Lancaster Foundation for subcultural awareness.[24] Adaptations reflect a pragmatic shift, with participants emphasizing goth's role for outsiders amid modern uncertainties, rather than rigid adherence to 1980s archetypes.[33]Musical Foundations
Core Genres and Sonic Characteristics
Gothic rock serves as the foundational genre of the goth subculture's musical identity, originating as a post-punk derivative in late 1970s Britain with bands like Bauhaus and Siouxsie and the Banshees emphasizing dark, introspective soundscapes over punk's raw aggression.[19] This genre incorporates elements of glam rock, Berlin cabaret, and gothic literary influences, manifesting in a postmodern pastiche that prioritizes emotional depth and atmospheric tension.[34] While subgenres such as deathrock in the United States and later darkwave emerged, gothic rock remains the core, defined by its rejection of blues-based rock conventions in favor of experimental timbres and modal structures.[19] Sonically, gothic rock features prominent, ominous bass lines that drive the rhythm, often paired with syncopated or mechanical drum patterns from live kits or early drum machines producing gunshot-like snaps for urgency and artificiality.[19] Guitars employ heavy reverb, echo, distortion, and tremolo effects to create echoing, metallic timbres that evoke hollowness and immersion, frequently in minor modes like Phrygian with chromatic descents and dissonant tritones avoiding resolution.[35] [19] Keyboards and synthesizers add ethereal or sterile layers, enhancing the "dark timbre" aesthetic through production techniques like flange and multi-tracking, resulting in a paradoxical sense of tangible disembodiment.[35] Vocals in gothic rock range from declamatory and theatrical baritones to quivering vibrato or androgynous tones, often delivered recitation-style over disjunct melodies with narrow ranges, fostering melancholy and subversion of traditional rock masculinity.[19] Exemplified in Bauhaus's "Dark Entries" (1980) with its chromatic riffs and punk-jazz rhythms or Siouxsie and the Banshees' "Melt" (1982) featuring bolero drums and cluster chords, these elements prioritize timbre's agency in conveying themes of decay and existential unease without relying on virtuosic solos.[19] Overall, the genre's sonic profile—bass-heavy, reverb-saturated, and harmonically static—distinguishes it as a vehicle for immersive, mood-driven expression rooted in 1980s independent production practices.[19]Pioneering Bands and Key Recordings
Bauhaus is widely recognized as a foundational band in gothic rock, with their debut single "Bela Lugosi's Dead," recorded on January 26, 1979, and released in August 1979 on Small Wonder Records, establishing core sonic elements like atmospheric tension, dub-influenced rhythms, and themes of horror and decay. [10] [36] This nine-minute track, featuring Peter Murphy's vampiric vocals over sparse instrumentation, became an anthem for the emerging subculture and influenced subsequent acts through its experimental post-punk structure. [11] Siouxsie and the Banshees, formed in 1976, transitioned from post-punk to gothic influences with their 1981 album Juju, which incorporated tribal rhythms, exotic instrumentation, and dark lyrical motifs, as heard in tracks like "Spellbound" and "Monitor." [37] Their earlier work, including the 1978 single "Hong Kong Garden," laid groundwork with eerie atmospheres, but Juju solidified their role in defining goth's melodic yet ominous sound. [38] The Cure's early 1980s output marked their gothic phase, beginning with Seventeen Seconds (1980), featuring minimalist tracks like "A Forest," and peaking with Pornography (1982), an album of dense, despairing soundscapes produced by Phil Thornalley that captured themes of alienation and existential dread. [39] These recordings shifted the band from pop-punk roots toward immersive goth aesthetics, influencing the genre's emotional depth. [40] The Sisters of Mercy contributed to goth's evolution with their 1985 debut First and Last and Always, released on March 11, which blended punk energy with reverb-drenched guitars and Andrew Eldritch's baritone delivery on songs like "This Corrosion" precursors, emphasizing martial beats and apocalyptic imagery. [41] This album, recorded amid internal tensions, became a benchmark for the genre's harder-edged variant. [42]Evolution, Subgenres, and Contemporary Acts
In the 1990s, goth music modernized through technological advancements and crossovers with shoegaze, indie, and electronic genres, incorporating polished production while retaining core elements like reverb-heavy guitars and brooding atmospheres.[43] Bands such as Rosetta Stone preserved traditional goth rock amid a broader subcultural entrenchment, though mainstream appeal waned by the 2000s, leading to underground persistence and genre fragmentation.[44] A resurgence occurred in the 2010s and accelerated into the 2020s, driven by post-punk revivals, social media amplification, and Gen Z interest in escapist aesthetics amid global uncertainties, with new acts blending vintage goth sonics with contemporary synths and minimalism.[28][33] This revival emphasized guitar-driven darkwave and coldwave influences, fostering festivals and streaming playlists that introduced classic sounds to younger audiences.[45] Goth music diversified into distinct subgenres, each evolving from post-punk foundations but diverging in tempo, instrumentation, and thematic emphasis. Traditional goth rock maintains slower, moody structures with driving basslines, highly reverbed guitars, and drum machines, exemplified by the atmospheric intensity of bands like The Cure and Sisters of Mercy.[46] Deathrock, an American variant prominent in the 1980s but revived later, features fast-paced, punk-infused frenzy with theatrical horror-punk lyrics and rumbling guitars, as in Christian Death's socially conscious tracks.[46] Darkwave shifts to synth-driven melancholy in minor keys, blending new wave electronics with introspective goth rock, heard in Clan of Xymox's cold, danceable beats.[46] Ethereal wave, a dreamy offshoot, incorporates shoegaze haze, breathy vocals, and harpsichord-like synths for otherworldly textures, pioneered by Cocteau Twins and echoed in modern acts like Drab Majesty.[46] Other variants include industrial goth, with distorted metallic clangs and aggressive electronics from influences like Nine Inch Nails, and gothic metal, fusing ornate riffs with doom elements in bands such as Type O Negative.[43] Minimal wave strips down to sparse synths and bass for stark, drum-machine propulsion, as in Lebanon Hanover's obscure minimalism.[46] Contemporary acts in the 2020s sustain this evolution, with veterans like The Cure releasing Songs of a Lost World in November 2024, reaffirming melodic goth rock's enduring appeal through introspective lyrics and layered synths.[47] Newer bands drive innovation: Drab Majesty blends ethereal wave with glam-infused gloom pop, releasing works that evoke 1980s dreaminess via ghostly vocals and minimal beats; Chelsea Wolfe merges folk-tinged darkwave with industrial edges in albums exploring personal darkness.[43][44] Acts like Boy Harsher and Choir Boy revive coldwave minimalism with lo-fi synths and post-punk bass, while She Past Away delivers Turkish deathrock revivalism through fast, horror-evoking guitars.[32] Minuit Machine and Then Comes Silence exemplify European darkwave resurgence, combining throbbing electronics and vampiric theatrics in recent releases that tour globally and stream widely.[48] This wave, including Winter Severity Index's icy post-punk, reflects goth's adaptability, prioritizing sonic fidelity to origins amid digital distribution's rise.[48][45]Aesthetic and Fashion Identity
Defining Visual and Stylistic Elements
The visual and stylistic elements of the Goth subculture are defined by a consistent emphasis on dark, monochromatic aesthetics, primarily featuring black as the dominant color in clothing to evoke themes of introspection, mortality, and romantic melancholy. Core wardrobe staples include layered ensembles of velvet, lace, leather, and synthetic fabrics, such as long frock coats, corseted bodices, asymmetrical skirts, and fitted trousers or skirts, often incorporating Victorian-era silhouettes adapted for contemporary wear.[49][50] These elements emerged in the late 1970s from post-punk influences, distinguishing Goth from broader punk styles by prioritizing ornate, historical romanticism over minimalism.[51] Makeup plays a central role in constructing an ethereal, undead-like pallor, achieved through heavy application of white or pale foundation, accentuated by thick black eyeliner smudged for a smoky effect, and lips painted in deep crimson, purple, or black shades.[52][53] Hair is typically dyed jet black and styled in voluminous, backcombed heights, long flowing lengths, or choppy, angular cuts, with both men and women adopting androgynous presentations that challenge conventional gender norms through elaborate grooming.[49][54] Accessories reinforce the subculture's dramatic flair, featuring items like silver crucifixes, pentagram pendants, spiked chokers, fishnet gloves or stockings, and platform footwear ranging from buckled boots to heeled Mary Janes, often sourced from vintage markets or custom-made to blend antique motifs with punk hardware.[55][56] This cohesive style, while allowing individual variation, maintains uniformity in its rejection of bright colors and casual sportswear, prioritizing theatricality and personal expression rooted in 19th-century Gothic literary imagery.[57][58]Historical and Literary Influences on Aesthetics
The aesthetics of the Goth subculture are profoundly shaped by Gothic literature from the late 18th and 19th centuries, which explored themes of terror, the supernatural, and human frailty through atmospheric settings and melancholic protagonists. Novels such as Horace Walpole's The Castle of Otranto (1764), the first Gothic novel, established motifs of haunted castles and medieval decay that resonated in Goth imagery of crumbling grandeur and shadowy romance. Mary Shelley's Frankenstein (1818) contributed to the archetype of the tormented outcast, influencing pale complexions and asymmetrical, monstrous elements in fashion.[59][29] Romanticism, peaking in the early 19th century, further informed Goth aesthetics through its emphasis on intense emotion, individualism, and the sublime beauty of nature's darker aspects, as seen in the works of poets like Lord Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley. Byron's persona as the brooding "Byronic hero"—charismatic yet doomed—mirrored in Goth's dramatic self-expression and velvet-clad silhouettes evoking Regency-era excess tempered by melancholy. This era's fashion, with high collars, ruffled shirts, and flowing capes, directly inspired Romantic Goth substyles prioritizing elegant, flowing garments over rigid structures.[60][61] Victorian-era influences, spanning 1837 to 1901, manifest in Goth through mourning attire and ornate dark elegance, reflecting societal rituals around death and restraint. Black bombazine dresses, widow's caps, and jet beadwork from Queen Victoria's prolonged mourning after Prince Albert's death in 1861 provided templates for layered, corseted outfits with lace veils and crucifixes, blending opulence with somber ritual. Edgar Allan Poe's tales, like "The Fall of the House of Usher" (1839), amplified this with motifs of decay and madness, embedding raven feathers and crumbling edifices into visual iconography. Bram Stoker's Dracula (1897) reinforced vampiric elegance, with high-necked blouses and capes symbolizing eternal night.[62][5]Variations, Substyles, and Recent Fashion Trends
The Goth subculture features numerous variations and substyles that adapt core dark aesthetics to diverse influences, including historical periods, music genres, and modern fusions. Traditional Goth, rooted in the post-punk scene of the late 1970s and early 1980s, emphasizes stark black clothing such as leather jackets, fishnet stockings, and platform boots, paired with pale makeup and dramatic hair.[63] This style draws directly from pioneering bands like Bauhaus and Siouxsie and the Banshees, prioritizing authenticity to original gothic rock sounds over later dilutions.[64] Romantic Goth, emerging in the mid-1980s, incorporates flowing velvet dresses, lace trims, and corsets inspired by Victorian and Romantic-era literature, evoking themes of melancholy and beauty in decay.[65] Victorian Goth extends this with more elaborate historical recreations, including high-neck blouses, bustles, and top hats, often sourced from antique or reproduction garments to mimic 19th-century mourning attire.[66] Cyber Goth, popularized in the 1990s rave scene, contrasts with these through neon accents, synthetic fabrics, futuristic goggles, and extreme platform shoes, blending industrial music with sci-fi elements for a high-energy, otherworldly look.[67] Other substyles include Deathrock, a punk-infused variant from early 1980s California featuring ripped clothing and aggressive styling tied to bands like Christian Death, and Steampunk Goth, which merges Victorian mechanics with brass gears and goggles for a retro-futuristic appeal.[63] In recent years, Goth fashion has seen adaptations reflecting broader cultural shifts. From 2023 to 2025, trends emphasize tactical punk with military surplus items like cargo pants and harnesses integrated into dark ensembles, alongside Victorian cyber hybrids combining corseted gowns with LED accents and metallic prosthetics.[68] Dark romance motifs, including sheer layers and exposed crinolines, gained prominence in 2024-2025 collections, as seen in runway shows blending historical silhouettes with contemporary transparency.[69] A Gen Z-driven resurgence, influenced by media like Tim Burton films and renewed interest in 1980s bands, has popularized accessible "nu goth" elements such as oversized black hoodies and subtle gothic jewelry, making the style more wearable while retaining morbid iconography.[33] These evolutions maintain empirical ties to subcultural origins but adapt to commercial availability and digital sharing platforms.[64]