Recent from talks
Nothing was collected or created yet.
Polo neck
View on Wikipedia
A polo neck, roll-neck[1] (South Africa), turtleneck (United States, Canada), or skivvy is a garment—usually a sweater—with a close-fitting collar that folds over and covers the neck. It can also refer to the type of neckline, the style of collar itself, or be used as an adjective ("polo necked").
A simpler variant of the standard polo neck is the mock polo neck (or mock turtleneck), that resembles the polo neck with the soft fold at its top and the way it stands up around the neck, but both ends of the tube forming the collar are sewn to the neckline. This is mainly used to achieve the appearance of a polo neck where the fabric would fray, roll, or otherwise behave badly unless sewn. The mock polo neck clings to the neck smoothly, is easy to manufacture, and works well with a zip closure.
History
[edit]Europe
[edit]Turtle neck–like garments have been worn for hundreds of years, dating at least to the 15th century. They were originally designed to protect the necks of knights wearing chainmail. Royalty adopted high-neck fashion, with the height and volume of the neck ruffle indicating status.[2]
From the late 19th century on polo necks were commonly worn by fishermen, manual workers, athletes, sailors and naval officers.[3] Since the middle of that century, black polo necks have been closely associated with leftist radical academics, philosophers, artists and intellectuals.[4][5] The polo neck jumper became an iconic symbol of the French philosopher Michel Foucault.[6] Polo necks also became a big fashion for wealthy young men after they were worn by European film stars Marcello Mastroianni and Yves Montand.[7]
Greta Garbo often wore polo necks and trousers privately, as later Audrey Hepburn would do in official photographs.
Vladimir Putin[8] of Russia, Andreas Papandreou[9] of Greece, and Emmanuel Macron[10] of France are examples of European leaders who are fond of wearing polo necks.
United States
[edit]At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries the high neckline blouse became a fashionable option for young women as part of the emergence of the Gibson Girl.[11] Their adoption by Noël Coward in the 1920s turned polo necks into a brief middle-class fashion trend, and feminists made them into a unisex item. Absorbed into mainstream American fashion by the mid 20th century, the polo neck came to be viewed as an anti-tie, a smart form of dress for those who rejected formal wear. Senator Ted Kennedy, pianist/conductor Vladimir Ashkenazy, conductor Seiji Ozawa, philosopher Michel Foucault, shipping tycoon Stavros Niarchos, singer Barry Manilow, scientist Carl Sagan, Oracle Corporation co-founder Larry Ellison, and Apple Inc. co-founder Steve Jobs were among those often seen in polo necks.[12] Disgraced Theranos founder Elizabeth Holmes deliberately copied Steve Jobs' style in wearing a black polo neck.[12][13]
Over time it became a fad among teenage girls, especially in a lightweight form that emphasised their figures. It was not long before Hollywood was also exploiting this image as part of the sweater girl look.
By the late 1950s the "tight turtleneck" had been adopted as part of the preppy style among students, a style emphasising neatness, tidiness and grooming. This would become an important aspect of the polo neck's image in the United States.
Turtlenecks were also famous in hippies in 1960s and 1970s.
Very elegant polo necks of silk or nylon knit, especially made with French cuffs for formal dress affairs, have also seen success in American fashion.[14]
As an alternative to the necktie
[edit]
Polo necks have been used as substitutes for a shirt-and-tie since the 1920s.[16] This was sometimes frowned upon in upscale restaurants and at weddings.
John Berendt wrote in Esquire[16]
the turtleneck was the boldest of all the affronts to the status quo. It was the picture of masculine poise and arrogance, redolent of athletes, sportsmen, even U-boat commanders. The simplicity of its design made neckties seem fussy and superfluous by comparison
turtlenecks are the most comfortable garment you can wear. They move with the body, and they're flattering too, because they accentuate the face and elongate the figure. They make life so easy: you can wear a turtleneck to work and then afterwards throw on a jacket, and it becomes very dressy. You can go anywhere you like.
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ Chilvers, Simon (2011-08-23). "Man-trend: Roll-necks | Fashion | guardian.co.uk". Guardian. Retrieved 2013-03-14.
- ^ Bucci, Jessica (2017-01-10). "Fashion Archives: A Look at the History of the Turtleneck". Fashion Fabric Sourcing. StartUp Fashion. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
- ^ "The Radical History & Psychology of Turtlenecks". The Good Trade. 26 November 2018. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
- ^ Mary Ann Frese Witt, The Humanities and the Modern World, 2000, ISBN 9780669154269, OCLC 254520256, pp. 463–464.
- ^ Deirdre Bair, Simone de Beauvoir: A Biography, 1990, p. 360.
- ^ Eribon, Didier (1992) [1989]. Michel Foucault. Translated by Betsy Wing. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press. p. 311. ISBN 978-0-571-14474-7.
- ^ Guido Vergani, Dizionario della moda, 2009, p. 348 (in Italian).
- ^ Zbigniew Brzezinski, Putin's Choice, 2008.
- ^ Theodore C. Kariotis, The Greek Socialist Experiment: Papandreou's Greece 1981–1989, 1992
- ^ "What's Emmanuel Macron's Turtleneck Trying to Say?". Vanity Fair. 10 December 2019.
- ^ "The Radical History & Psychology Of Turtlenecks". The Good Trade. 26 November 2018. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
- ^ a b Warde-Aldam, Digby (15 October 2019). "How the black turtleneck came to represent creative genius". CNN. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
- ^ O'Brien, Sara Ashley (May 21, 2018). "'Bad Blood' explores the culture inside disgraced startup Theranos". CNN. Archived from the original on March 31, 2019. Retrieved May 7, 2020.
- ^ O'Donnol, Shirley Miles (1989-08-22). American Costume, 1915-1970: A Source Book for the Stage Costumer. Indiana University Press. ISBN 0253113733. Retrieved 2013-03-14.
- ^ Olivarez-Giles, Nathan (October 11, 2011). "Steve Jobs' black turtleneck reportedly explained in biography". Los Angeles Times. Technology (blog). Retrieved June 7, 2014.
- ^ a b c Hoffmann, Frank W.; William G. Bailey (1994). Fashion & Merchandising Fads. Haworth Popular Culture. Binghamton, N.Y.: The Haworth Press. pp. 267–268. ISBN 9781560243762. OCLC 27225478.
External links
[edit]Polo neck
View on GrokipediaTerminology and Definition
Etymology and Regional Variations
The term "turtleneck" originated in American English in 1893, referring to the high, close-fitting collar that folds over and evokes the appearance of a turtle's neck.[5] In contrast, "polo neck," common in British English, derives from the garment's adoption by polo players in the 1860s to shield the neck from wind and friction during equestrian play.[6] The variant "roll-neck," also used in the United Kingdom, descriptively highlights the collar's characteristic fold or roll downward over the chest.[7] Regional nomenclature varies: in the United States and Canada, "turtleneck" predominates; in the United Kingdom, "polo neck" or "roll-neck" are standard; Australia and New Zealand favor "skivvy," often denoting a lighter version; and in French, it is "col roulé," meaning "rolled collar."[1][8] These differences reflect linguistic evolution and cultural associations with the garment's practical origins in sport and labor.[7]Distinguishing Features and Construction Basics
The polo neck sweater is characterized by its prominent high collar, which rises vertically from the shoulder line to enclose the entire neck, distinguishing it from lower necklines like the crew neck that sit flush at the collarbone without coverage. This collar, typically 20-30 cm in unfolded length, is designed to fold downward over itself, creating a double-layered tube that provides insulation and a structured appearance. In contrast to the crew neck's simple rounded band, the polo neck's ribbed construction ensures elasticity and form retention, preventing sagging or distortion during wear.[1][9][10] Construction fundamentals center on knitting techniques, where the garment body is formed via methods such as seamless circular knitting or flat panels joined by seams, often incorporating set-in or raglan sleeves for shaping. The defining collar begins with stitches picked up along the neck edge—usually a multiple of four for ribbing compatibility—then knitted in a tight 2x2 rib stitch over an extended length to accommodate folding. This ribbing, common in wool or cotton blends, employs alternating knit and purl stitches to generate horizontal stretch, enabling the collar to conform snugly while maintaining vertical rigidity.[10][11][12] Variations in collar execution include non-folded tubular styles, where the band remains upright without doubling, or mock necks with shorter heights approximating one-third of a full polo collar. Seam placement, if any, is minimized at the center back for a smooth finish, and finishing often involves binding off in pattern to preserve elasticity. These elements ensure durability and aesthetic consistency across machine- or hand-knitted production.[11][1]Historical Origins and Development
Medieval and Pre-Modern Practical Roots
In medieval Europe, knights and soldiers wore padded undergarments with high, close-fitting necks beneath chainmail hauberks to mitigate severe chafing and abrasions caused by the interlocking metal rings rubbing against bare skin during prolonged wear and combat.[13][6] These garments, often constructed from wool or linen and sometimes quilted for additional cushioning, formed an essential layer of the aketon or gambeson, prioritizing functionality over aesthetics in an era when armor weighed 20-30 kilograms and mobility was critical.[14][15] Historical accounts of chainmail's discomfort, derived from primary descriptions in chronicles like those of Froissart's Chronicles (c. 1400), underscore this practical necessity, as unprotected necks were vulnerable to friction-induced wounds that could lead to infection without modern antiseptics.[2] By the late medieval and early modern periods (c. 15th-17th centuries), similar high-neck designs evolved among European seafarers and fishermen, particularly in colder maritime regions like the English Channel Islands, where knitted wool sweaters with roll or fold-over collars provided insulation against wind, spray, and hypothermia during long voyages.[16] These precursors to modern polo necks, such as the Guernsey or Jersey sweaters originating around the 15th century, used dense, natural yarns for durability and warmth, with the high collar serving to seal drafts and protect the throat from elemental exposure—evidenced by surviving artifacts in maritime museums and patterns documented in 19th-century ethnographies tracing back to pre-industrial knitting traditions.[17] This adaptation reflected causal priorities of survival in harsh environments, where loose fabrics risked snagging on rigging or failing to retain body heat, contrasting with ornamental ruffs emerging in elite civilian fashion that prioritized display over utility.[18] Such pre-modern applications emphasized empirical functionality: high necks reduced vulnerability to environmental and mechanical hazards, as quantified in later naval records showing lower incidence of neck-related frostbite among collared knitwear users compared to open-necked alternatives.[19] While not yet standardized as leisure wear, these roots laid the groundwork for the garment's persistence, unadorned by ideological overlays and driven by direct physical needs in labor-intensive societies.[20]19th-Century Sporting Adoption
In the mid-19th century, around 1860, English polo players began incorporating high-collared sweaters into their sporting attire, marking a key phase in the garment's adoption for athletic use.[2][6] This practical choice stemmed from the need for protection during polo matches, where players faced exposure to wind, cold, and friction from reins or collars on horseback; the folded neck band shielded the throat and prevented chafing while allowing full mobility.[21][3] Polo, formalized in England after its introduction from India in the 1850s, demanded durable, weather-resistant clothing for outdoor play on open fields, and the polo neck's woolen construction met these requirements without the bulk of traditional shirts.[2] This sporting endorsement popularized the term "polo neck" in British English, distinguishing it from American "turtleneck" nomenclature, as the garment became synonymous with the sport's elite equestrian circles.[21][6] By the late 19th century, its utility extended to other athletes, including rowers and early cyclists, who valued the design's warmth and form-fitting nature for endurance activities in variable climates.[2] Unlike looser Victorian collars, the polo neck's seamless knit integration reduced irritation during vigorous movement, reflecting a shift toward functional sportswear amid rising organized athletics in Britain.[3]20th-Century Mainstream Integration
In the early 1920s, British playwright Noël Coward elevated the polo neck from utilitarian origins to a staple in sophisticated wardrobes by frequently wearing it onstage and in public, associating it with intellectual and artistic circles while appealing to middle- and upper-class audiences.[21] This adoption marked an initial shift toward broader cultural acceptance, as Coward's visibility in theater and film helped normalize the garment beyond sports and labor contexts.[22] By the mid-20th century, particularly following World War II, the polo neck integrated into mainstream American fashion as a practical alternative to traditional collared shirts and ties, favored for its sleek, collarless profile among professionals rejecting formal neckwear.[1] Postwar Parisian cultural revival further propelled its popularity, with designers and artists embracing it for its minimalist versatility in both casual and semi-formal settings.[21] In the 1950s, the garment gained wider appeal through celebrity endorsements, including actress Jayne Mansfield, who styled it to emphasize sensuality, broadening its reach from avant-garde to commercial fashion markets.[23] The 1960s and 1970s saw renewed surges in popularity, first among beatniks and countercultural figures before permeating everyday wardrobes via mass production and retail availability, solidifying its status as a versatile, non-conformist essential in Western apparel.[1] Influential wearers like author Ernest Hemingway and musician Elvis Presley exemplified its crossover from subcultural symbol to accessible style, with sales reflecting broader consumer adoption in urban and suburban contexts.[14] This era's integration owed much to knitwear advancements enabling affordable, durable variants, though periodic fluctuations in vogue persisted.[1]Design Features and Variations
Materials and Manufacturing Techniques
Polo necks are primarily fabricated from knitted textiles valued for their elasticity and insulation properties, with wool—particularly merino—being a predominant material due to its fine fibers that provide warmth without excessive bulk.[24][25] Cotton offers breathability and softness suitable for lighter variants, while cashmere delivers luxury through superior insulation and drape from its longer, finer goat undercoat hairs.[25] Synthetic blends, incorporating polyester or elastane, are employed in contemporary production to improve durability, stretch recovery, and resistance to pilling.[26] The manufacturing process commences with yarn preparation, where fibers are spun into yarns inspected for quality before storage.[27] Garment panels—front, back, and sleeves—are knitted on computerized flat-bed machines using weft knitting techniques, enabling precise shaping via incremental increases and decreases for fitted silhouettes.[28][29] The distinctive polo neck collar utilizes rib knitting, commonly 1x1 or 2x2 patterns, produced to double the desired height for folding; this ribbing ensures the collar's ability to stretch over the head while contracting snugly around the neck.[11] Panels and collar are assembled via linking machines that mimic hand-sewing for minimal seam visibility, followed by overlocking to prevent fraying.[27][30] Finishing involves wet processing—such as washing and blocking—to relax the knit structure, set dimensions, and enhance softness, culminating in pressing and quality checks for defects like uneven stitching or yarn inconsistencies.[31] Cut-and-sew methods predominate in mass production for versatility, though seamless whole-garment knitting emerges in high-end applications to reduce seams entirely.[29]
