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Xàtiva (Valencian: [ˈʃativa];[Nota 1] Spanish: Játiva [ˈxatiβa])[3] is a town in eastern Spain, in the province of Valencia, on the right (western) bank of the river Albaida and at the junction of the Valencia–Murcia and Valencia Albacete railways, in the north of the Central Comarcas and serves as the capital of La Costera comarca. It holds the distinction of having the highest number of enclaves in Spain, totaling twenty-six.[4][5] It is located 25 km west of the Mediterranean Sea. During the Al-Andalus Islamic era, Arabs brought the technology to manufacture paper to Xàtiva. In the 12th century, Xàtiva was known for its schools, education, and learning circles. Islamic scholar Abu Ishaq al-Shatibi's last name refers to Xàtiva where he lived and died.[6] After the Reconquista by Northern Christian kingdoms and the following Christian repopulation, the city became the cradle of one of the most powerful and controversial families of the Renaissance, the House of Borgia, which produced Popes like Callixtus III (Alfonso de Borgia) and Alexander VI (Rodrigo de Borgia).

Key Information

Historically, Xàtiva was a prominent town in the Kingdom of Valencia, rivaling Valencia and Orihuela during the foral period. It is the birthplace of the Borgia popes and preserves a rich artistic heritage, despite suffering significant destruction in 1707 by Bourbon troops during the War of the Spanish Succession. In 1822, it briefly served as the capital of the Province of Xàtiva, which was dissolved in 1833 following the 1833 territorial division of Spain. In the late 1970s, Xàtiva was proposed as a potential capital for the Valencian Community due to its historical and geographic significance, avoiding tensions between Alicante and Valencia.[7] The city's population is approximately 30,378 (2024).[8] Together with nearby municipalities, it forms an integrated urban area with around 61,000 inhabitants in 2023.[9]

Etymology

[edit]

Xàtiva is one of the few Spanish cities to retain a pre-Roman toponym. The Iberians knew it as Saiti, which evolved into Saitabi or Saetabis in Latin. Under Muslim rule, it was called مَدينَة شاطِبَة (madīnat Šāṭibat), leading to the Valencian Xàtiva.[10] In 1707, Philip V of Spain renamed it San Felipe.[10] The Cortes of Cádiz restored the name in 1811 as the Castilianized Xátiva,[11][12] which was later adapted to the academic spelling Játiva. It officially reverted to its Valencian form Xàtiva by a decree of the Valencian Council on January 7, 1980.[13]

History

[edit]

Xàtiva (Saetabis in Latin)[14] was famous in Roman times for its linen fabrics, mentioned by the Latin poets Ovid and Catullus. Xàtiva is also known as an early European centre of paper manufacture. In the 12th century, Arabs brought the technology to manufacture paper to Xàtiva (Arabic: شاطبة Shāṭiba).

It is the birthplace of two popes, Callixtus III and Alexander VI, and also the painter José Ribera (Lo Spagnoletto). It suffered a dark moment in its history at the hands of Philip V of Spain, who, after his victory at the Battle of Almansa during the War of the Spanish Succession, had the city besieged then ordered it to be burned and renamed San Felipe. In memory of the insult, the portrait of the monarch hangs upside down in the local Almodí Museum [es].[15]

Xàtiva was briefly a provincial capital under the short-lived 1822 territorial division of Spain,[16] during the Trienio Liberal. The Province of Xàtiva was revoked with the return to absolutism in 1823.

Coin from Saetabi, 1st century BC
Authentic bilingual Saetabi coin

Prehistory and Antiquity

[edit]

Evidence of settlement in Xàtiva dates back to the Middle Paleolithic, as shown by findings at Cova Negra.[17] The city originates from the Iberian culture, known as Saiti [es] (with variants Ibi or Tibi).[17] Due to over 2,300 years of continuous settlement in the same area, ancient remains are scarce, as materials were reused repeatedly, explaining the paucity of Iberian artifacts. The original settlement is identified at the site of the current Minor Castle.[17]

Romanization began in the 2nd century BC, with Saitabi flourishing and minting its own coins,[17] featuring a three-pointed star at 8, 12, and 4 o'clock, resembling the modern Mercedes-Benz logo. It was elevated to a Roman municipium named Saetabis Augusta in honor of Emperor Augustus.[17] During the Roman Empire, Xàtiva was a key commercial hub along the Via Augusta, renowned for flax production and textile manufacturing. The Roman poet Catullus mentions the lintea or sudaria Saetaba ex Hiberis, gifts from his friends Veranius and Fabullus, in his poem 12 (Catulli Veronensis 'Carmina' Henricus Bardon, ed. Bibliotheca Latina Teubneriana, 1973: p. 15.). Few Roman remains are visible, as stones were reused for later constructions, and the site saw intensive agricultural use. Over a dozen cisterns remain.[17] In the Late Roman Empire, Saetabis became an episcopal see, with its bishops attending the Councils of Toledo during the Visigothic period (6th and 7th centuries).[17] In Visigothic Spain, it was an episcopal see [es] under the Archdiocese of Toledo, part of the Roman province of Carthaginensis in the Diocese of Hispania.

Middle Ages

[edit]

Following the Muslim conquest of the Iberian Peninsula in 711, the city was named Medina مَدينَة شاطِبَة (madīnat Šāṭibat, generally transcribed as Medina Xàtiba). It became a fortified stronghold, praised by the 12th-century geographer Al-Idrisi for the beauty and strength of its castles. It belonged successively to the Taifa of Toledo, Taifa of Córdoba, Taifa of Almería, Taifa of Dénia, and Taifa of Murcia. In 1094, it served as a refuge for Almoravid troops defeated by El Cid in the Battle of Cuarte.[18] This link to El Cid includes Xàtiva in the Camino del Cid. By the early 13th century, it was the capital of a small Muslim state dependent on Valencia, stretching from the Júcar River in the north to Biar in the south.[17] Xàtiva was a pioneer in paper production in Western Europe.[17]

Charter of Xàtiva (1252)
Administrative division of the Kingdom of Valencia from the 14th to 17th centuries
Portrait of Philip V of Spain hung upside down in the Almodí Museum [es].

After conquering Valencia in 1238, James I of Aragon besieged Xàtiva in 1240 but lifted the siege after a truce with the Muslim governor. Conflicts between the governor and the Castilians prompted James I to intervene again, capturing the city in 1244, shortly after signing the Treaty of Almizra with Alfonso X of Castile.[17] Upon surrender, James I preserved the mosque, which stood until the 16th century. Under Christian rule, as Xàtiva, it became the second most important city in the Kingdom of Valencia, though it did not regain its episcopal status. It led a homonymous governorship.[19] The Morisco population was expelled from the walled city and resettled in rural areas and the San Juan suburb, while the Jews retained their juderías near the Santa Tecla gate. The castle and walls were strengthened between 1287 and 1369, and water supply improved with the Bellús and Agua Santa aqueducts.[17] In 1347, King Peter IV of Aragon granted it city status.[20]

Early Modern Period

[edit]
Etching by Juan Fernando Palomino [es] titled Northern view of the city of San Felipe. National Library of Spain

By the late 15th century, Xàtiva had around 8,000 inhabitants and was at its peak. It administered a vast municipal term, now corresponding to 37 municipalities, and a governorship spanning from the Júcar River to Caudete, Biar, Castalla, Xixona, and Villajoyosa, covering 4,750 km².[17] Beyond administrative roles, it had military significance (its castle was the strongest in the Kingdom of Valencia), and economic and commercial functions. The expulsion of the Moriscos led to the loss of nearly half the governorship's population, depopulating over 100 settlements. This demographic crisis, coupled with economic decline and 17th-century plague epidemics, further reduced the population.[17]

During the War of the Spanish Succession, Xàtiva supported Archduke Charles, enduring harsh sieges by Bourbon troops led by Asfeld. The city was heavily damaged, looted, and much of its population massacred or exiled. Traditionally, it is said to have been burned for a year, earning its residents the nickname socarrats ("scorched ones"). A plan to demolish much of the city and rebuild was abandoned due to technical and property issues. The greatest affront was the dismemberment of its governorship, loss of civic functions, and renaming to Colonia Nueva de San Phelipe, or simply San Felipe.[17]

Contemporary Period

[edit]

Throughout the 18th century, Xàtiva recovered, with 12,655 inhabitants by 1787, prompting new urban works. However, the 1748 earthquakes caused significant damage, destroying the Santa Tecla church and leaving the castle nearly abandoned. The economy declined by the late 18th century, as the new Royal Road from Madrid to Valencia bypassed the city by 4 km (roughly the current A-35 and A-7 route), begun in 1776.[17] In 1811, the Cortes of Cádiz restored the name Xàtiva,[21][22][23] largely due to the efforts of Joaquín Lorenzo Villanueva.[24] Economically, the city suffered a major setback between 1810 and 1830 with the near-total collapse of its flax and silk textile industry, leaving about 1,300 people jobless. From 1822 to 1823, it served as the capital of the Province of Xàtiva, though this was not confirmed in the 1833 territorial division (Trieno Liberal), when it was included in the Province of Valencia.[25][17] The railway's arrival in 1858, with the La Encina [es] new station [es] opened on December 20, 1854, boosted connectivity, between Valencia and La Encina [es].[26] However, this did not halt demographic stagnation, exacerbated by La Encina [es] disentailment [es], which emptied convents, and the abolition of seigniorial rights, prompting the exodus of about fifty noble families. The population declined until 1910, when immigration spurred growth, which continued slowly from the 1960s due to rural exodus and Xàtiva's specialization as a service city.[17]

During the Spanish Civil War, Xàtiva remained loyal to the Second Spanish Republic until the war's end, hosting some war industries. On February 12, 1939, it suffered a bombing by Italian aircraft of the Aviazione Legionaria, targeting the railway station and surroundings.[27] The attack killed 129 people and injured over 200, many of them women and children at the station awaiting a military convoy.[27]

Panoramic view of Xàtiva

De

[edit]
Municipal charter of Xàtiva (1252).

Xàtiva (Saetabis in Latin)[14] was famous in Roman times for its linen fabrics, mentioned by the Latin poets Ovid and Catullus. Xàtiva is also known as an early European centre of paper manufacture. In the 12th century, Arabs brought the technology to manufacture paper to Xàtiva (Arabic: شاطبة Shāṭiba).

It is the birthplace of two popes, Callixtus III and Alexander VI, and also the painter José Ribera (Lo Spagnoletto). It suffered a dark moment in its history at the hands of Philip V of Spain, who, after his victory at the Battle of Almansa during the War of the Spanish Succession, had the city besieged then ordered it to be burned and renamed San Felipe. In memory of the insult, the portrait of the monarch hangs upside down in the local museum of l'Almodí.[15]

Xàtiva was briefly a provincial capital under the short-lived 1822 territorial division of Spain,[16] during the Trienio Liberal. The Province of Xàtiva was revoked with the return to absolutism in 1823.

Geography

[edit]

Located in La Costera comarca, Xàtiva is 62 km from the city of Valencia. The municipality is crossed by the A-7 Mediterranean Motorway, the regional roads CV-620 (formerly N-340 between km 838 and 847) and CV-41 [es] (Alzira–Xàtiva), and local roads connecting to Vallés, Novelé, Genovés, Barxeta, Llocnou d'En Fenollet, L'Énova, Manuel, and Llosa de Ranes.

View of the city and castle

The municipality lies in the strategic Montesa corridor between the basins of the Albaida River [es] and its tributary, the Cànyoles River [es]. Its perimeter is highly irregular, with several territorial enclaves resulting from historical segregations of its once-larger municipal term, which included over sixty villages.[28]

The terrain features four distinct units. In the north, the Santa Anna range, a Triassic outcrop, reaches 230 m. South of this range, between Llosa de Ranes and Xàtiva, lies a broad, nearly flat valley at 80–100 m, covered with Quaternary sediments and irrigated by the Cànyoles River [es], Carnissers ravine, and Albaida River [es], which waters Xàtiva's fertile orchards.[28] East of the Albaida stands the Puig hill (309 m), topped by the ruins of the Our Lady of Puig hermitage. South of the orchards, the terrain becomes rugged with the Bernisa range, an anticline with near-vertical limestone walls reaching 454 m. South of this lies the Bixquert [es] valley, colored by albariza soils, and further south, the Serra Grossa forms the boundary with the Vall d'Albaida, reaching 498 m.[28]

Altitudes range from 498 m in the southwest (Serra Grossa) to 50 m along the Albaida River [es]. The city itself is situated at 120 m above sea level, at the foot of the castle hill, with some houses extending up its slopes and others spreading into the flatter valley.

Climate

[edit]

Xàtiva has a Mediterranean climate (Csa in the Köppen climate classification).[29] Winters are mild, while summers are very hot, with maximum temperatures occasionally exceeding 40 °C. Frosts are rare, and snow is extremely rare. In autumn, the cold drop can occur.

Xàtiva has a hot semi-arid climate (Köppen climate classification: BSh) with mild winters and hot to very hot summers. September is the wettest month of the year as a result of cold drop episodes that occur mainly in autumn.[30] Despite being located inland, its lower altitude means that temperatures below 0 °C (32 °F) are rare, while in summer it is common for temperatures to approach or exceed 40 °C (104 °F). Summer nights are warm, often hovering around 20 °C (68 °F). Xàtiva also recorded the highest temperature ever in peninsular Spain in a month of March, on 23 March 2001 which registered 38 °C (100 °F).[31]

Climate data for Xàtiva (1991–2020), extremes (1990-present)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 28.0
(82.4) 		30.6
(87.1) 		38.0
(100.4) 		36.3
(97.3) 		42.9
(109.2) 		43.2
(109.8) 		46.0
(114.8) 		45.7
(114.3) 		43.6
(110.5) 		35.5
(95.9) 		32.7
(90.9) 		28.7
(83.7) 		46.0
(114.8)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 16.7
(62.1) 		17.9
(64.2) 		21.1
(70.0) 		24.0
(75.2) 		27.4
(81.3) 		32.2
(90.0) 		35.0
(95.0) 		34.8
(94.6) 		30.6
(87.1) 		26.0
(78.8) 		20.5
(68.9) 		17.4
(63.3) 		25.3
(77.5)
Daily mean °C (°F) 10.7
(51.3) 		11.5
(52.7) 		14.1
(57.4) 		16.7
(62.1) 		20.0
(68.0) 		24.5
(76.1) 		27.6
(81.7) 		27.7
(81.9) 		24.1
(75.4) 		19.7
(67.5) 		14.4
(57.9) 		11.5
(52.7) 		18.5
(65.4)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 4.7
(40.5) 		5.1
(41.2) 		7.0
(44.6) 		9.3
(48.7) 		12.5
(54.5) 		16.7
(62.1) 		20.1
(68.2) 		20.7
(69.3) 		17.6
(63.7) 		13.3
(55.9) 		8.2
(46.8) 		5.5
(41.9) 		11.7
(53.1)
Record low °C (°F) −5.8
(21.6) 		−5.6
(21.9) 		−3.4
(25.9) 		0.6
(33.1) 		3.1
(37.6) 		7.7
(45.9) 		11.7
(53.1) 		12.1
(53.8) 		7.9
(46.2) 		1.7
(35.1) 		−3.4
(25.9) 		−3.3
(26.1) 		−5.8
(21.6)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 61.0
(2.40) 		30.9
(1.22) 		41.3
(1.63) 		39.5
(1.56) 		36.9
(1.45) 		20.6
(0.81) 		6.2
(0.24) 		14.7
(0.58) 		72.0
(2.83) 		21.3
(0.84) 		41.7
(1.64) 		43.7
(1.72) 		429.8
(16.92)
Average precipitation days (≥ 1 mm) 4.4 3.5 4.6 4.4 3.9 1.9 1.0 1.8 4.0 3.0 4.5 3.4 40.4
Source: Agencia Estatal de Meteorologia[32]

Demography

[edit]
Historical population
YearPop.±%
184213,168—    
185715,747+19.6%
186014,530−7.7%
187714,412−0.8%
188714,071−2.4%
189711,789−16.2%
190012,602+6.9%
191012,767+1.3%
192014,231+11.5%
193015,185+6.7%
194017,951+18.2%
195018,230+1.6%
196020,224+10.9%
197021,710+7.3%
198123,920+10.2%
199124,461+2.3%
200125,736+5.2%
201129,125+13.2%
202129,655+1.8%
  Population de jure according to population censuses of the INE
  Population de facto according to INE censuses

Xàtiva has a population of approximately 30378 (2023). Its residents are known as setabenses or socarrats ("scorched ones"), a reference to the 1707 burning by Philip V of Spain. About 9.0% of the population is of foreign nationality.[35]

In 1887, Xàtiva's population increased with the incorporation of the former municipality of Anahuir.[34]

Urban planning

[edit]
Xàtiva in 1563, from a drawing by Anton van den Wyngaerde.
Alameda of Xàtiva

The original Iberian city was located where the Minor Castle now stands. After the Roman conquest, the center shifted to the plain, occupying the now-empty space between the current city and the castle, where the churches of San Félix and San José stand.[36] Remains and records of Andalusian buildings indicate the city expanded beyond the Roman-Visigothic walls. The Islamic medina likely covered most of the current medieval city, with the Aljama (in Montsant) and the main mosque on the site of the current collegiate church. Water was supplied via the Villa acequia.[36] After the Christian conquest, the city's urban layout was renewed with new buildings. From the late 13th century, residents began abandoning the upper city for more accessible areas with running water, turning the old enclosure into a large albacar (livestock pen) and later farmland.[36] The city then remained within the walls' limits, though suburbs expanded, and numerous buildings were constructed until the economic crisis following the Morisco expulsion.

The 1707 Bourbon sieges left the city heavily damaged, but recovery began in the 18th century with the creation of the Market Square and palaces along Corretgeria and Moncada streets. In 1822, the first public lighting with oil was introduced. During the First Carlist War (1837–1847), the walls were reinforced for the last time. The 19th-century demographic stagnation limited urban expansion, but key projects included the Station descent in 1860, the parallel Carmen descent, a new route to Valencia, and the urbanization of the Alameda in 1882, after demolishing much of the walls in 1874.[37] These axes shaped the early 20th-century expansion.[36] Growth first filled the space between the medieval city and the railway, then extended westward along Reina street. A 1934 expansion plan, revised as an Alignment Plan in 1944, guided growth until the 1960s. The 1988 General Urban Development Plan aimed to expand beyond the railway, requiring two underpasses and one overpass. In 1995, access to the A-7 was improved with a new bridge over the Cañoles River [es].[36]

Economy

[edit]

The service sector dominates Xàtiva's economy, particularly tourism and commerce. Industry is also a key economic driver. Commerce attracts customers from the comarca and neighboring areas. The Xàtiva Functional Area includes 38 municipalities, with a population of 113,427 in 2009 (2.2% of the regional total), due to its strategic location and excellent infrastructure connectivity.[38]

While 40% of the population worked in agriculture in 1950, this fell to 5% by 2001. Industry employed 20% of the workforce, and construction 12%. Xàtiva has specialized as a service city, with over 63% of its active population in this sector.[36]

Transport

[edit]

Roads

[edit]

The following roads pass through Xàtiva's municipal term:[39]

A-7 Connects Algeciras with Barcelona.
A-35 Connects Xàtiva with Almansa and the A-31.
CV-41 Connects Xàtiva with Alzira.
CV-58 [es] Connects Xàtiva with the A-7 to the north.
CV-563 Connects CV-41 [es] with Llosa de Ranes.
CV-567 Connects Xàtiva with Cerdà.
CV-573 Connects Barxeta with Manuel.
CV-597 Connects the A-7 with the A-35.
CV-600 Connects Xàtiva with the CV-50 [es] at Tavernes de la Valldigna.
CV-610 Connects Xàtiva with the CV-60 at Almiserà.
CV-620 Connects Xàtiva with the CV-60 at Montaverner.
CV-645 Connects Xàtiva with the A-7 to the south.

Railway

[edit]
Train station

The Xàtiva railway station [es] in the urban core offers Renfe Operadora services, including long-distance (Talgo [es] , Trenhotel), Medium Distance [es] (Línea 47 [es] , connecting to Alcoy), and Cercanías Valencia (Line C-2). The station is equipped for high-speed AVE Madrid–Valencia (via Albacete) trains, currently under construction.

Intercity bus

[edit]

Xàtiva has a bus station with lines connecting to nearby towns and cities, operated by companies like Chambitos,[40] La Concepción,[41] and Travicoi.[42] The lines include:

  • Valencia - Xàtiva - Alcoy - Ibi
  • Valencia - Xàtiva - Ontinyent - Bañeres de Mariola
  • Xàtiva - Ontinyent
  • Xàtiva - Barxeta
  • Xàtiva - Pinet
  • Xàtiva - Rafelguaraf
  • Xàtiva - Fuente la Higuera - Carcer
  • Xàtiva - La Pobla del Duc
  • Xàtiva – Adzaneta de Albaida
  • Xàtiva – Enguera
  • Xàtiva – Bicorp – Navarrés – Enguera
  • Xàtiva - Gandia

Urban bus

[edit]
Municipality of Xàtiva

The urban bus service, managed by the municipality, connects various city points with the Lluís Alcanyís Hospital.

Administration and politics

[edit]

Municipal government

[edit]
List of mayors since the democratic elections of 1979
Term Mayor Political party
1979–1983 Manuel Casesnoves Soldevila. 1979-1983 Partit Socialista del País Valencià (PSPV-PSOE)
1983–1987 Miquel Calabuig i Adrià. 1983-1995. 1983-1995 Partit Socialista del País Valencià (PSPV-PSOE)
1987–1991 Alfonso Rus Terol Partido Popular de la Comunidad Valenciana (PP)
1991–1995 Roger Cerdà i Boluda Partit Socialista del País Valencià (PSPV-PSOE)
1995–1999 n/d n/d
1999–2003 n/d n/d
2003–2007 n/d n/d
2007–2011 n/d n/d
2011–2015 n/d n/d
2015–2019 n/d n/d
2019–2023 n/d n/d
2023– n/d n/d
Municipal election results in Xàtiva[43]
Political party 2023 2019 2015 2011 2007
% Votes Councilors % Votes Councilors % Votes Councilors % Votes Councilors % Votes Councilors
PSPV-PSOE 34.38 5284 8 41.50 6085 10 27.36 4426 7 27.77 4408 6 29.65 4665 7
PP 34.09 5239 8 15.51 2274 4 21.95 3550 5 46.19 7333 11 50.35 7921 12
EUPV 16.48 2533 4 22.34 3276 5 23.22 3756 5 10.38 1648 2 4.95 779 0
Vox 6.53 1004 1 4.14 608 0 — — — — — — — — —
Compromís-BNV 4.58 704 0 3.93 577 0 13.70 2216 3 11.79 1872 2 10.41 1638 2
Citizens (CS) 2.83 436 0 9.31 1366 2 7.08 1145 1 — — — — — —

Territorial organization

[edit]

Hamlets

[edit]

Currently, in addition to the municipal capital, the following population units are located within the municipal term, ordered by their population in 2015:[44]

Neighborhoods

[edit]

The city of Xàtiva is divided into twelve neighborhoods, reflecting both its historical structure and modern growth:[45]

Culture

[edit]

Heritage

[edit]

Xàtiva's historic center was declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1982, housing most of the city's heritage.[46] Within its municipal term lies the Cova Negra natural site, centered around a Middle Paleolithic site with Neanderthal remains.

Military heritage

[edit]
Castle of Xàtiva
  • Castle of Xàtiva: Perched on the Bernisa range, it dominates the city. Its core, the Minor Castle, is of Iberian origin, later occupied by Romans,[47] who began constructing the Major Castle.[48] The current complex features mainly Islamic or Gothic architecture. It served as a state prison for the Crown of Aragon and was considered the strongest fortress in the Kingdom of Valencia.[48] From its summit, one can see the city and the Júcar River plain to the north; drylands and the Grossa, Mariola, and Benicadell ranges to the south; the Castilian border to the west; and, on clear days, the Mediterranean Sea to the east.[49] It was declared a National Monument in 1931.[48]
  • Walls of Xàtiva [es]: Small sections of the urban walls and hilltop watchtowers remain. Built to protect the city, they date from the 11th to 16th centuries.[50]

Religious heritage

[edit]
The Seo of Xàtiva
Porch and portal of the Church of San Félix
Convent of San Onofre el Nuevo
Cloister of the former Convent of San Agustín
  • Collegiate Basilica: Also known as the Seo, this cathedral-like temple with three naves, a crossing, and an ambulatory was built from 1596 over a former mosque, with construction lasting until the 19th century due to financial issues.[47] Its museum displays valuable pieces, including panels of Saint Helena and Saint Sebastian, a retable of Saint Anne, a 14th-century Major Cross, Callixtus III's chalice, and the Major Corpus monstrance.[51]
  • Church of San Pere: Built in the 14th century over a mosque in the Market Square, it follows the conquest temple model with three diaphragmatic arches and a Gothic-Mudéjar coffered ceiling decorated with polychrome bands, vine leaves, geometric motifs, and coats of arms.[52]
  • Church of Sant Feliu: Dating to the 13th century, built over a late imperial episcopal see, its porch features Roman columns and ashlar stones.[47] It houses paintings from the 14th to 16th centuries.[53]
  • Church of La Merced [es]: Formerly the Church of San Miguel, attached to the former Mercedarian convent, it was burned in 1707 during the War of the Spanish Succession and rebuilt by the friars.
  • Church of Santos Juanes: Built around 1535 over a mosque, it has a Latin cross plan with barrel-vaulted side chapels, rebuilt after the 1707 burning. Its Buxcarró marble staircase is notable.[54]
  • Church of Santa Tecla: Dating to the 14th century, it was heavily damaged in the 1707 Bourbon sieges and collapsed in the 1748 earthquake, though its bell tower remains.[47]
  • Royal Monastery of the Assumption [es]: A Gothic and Baroque convent built in the 14th century, with expansions in the 16th to 18th centuries.[55]
  • Convent of Sant Francesc: Begun in the 14th century, its restored church now serves as a concert hall, with a single nave and seven ribbed-vaulted side chapels.[56] Nearby is the 1764 Rococo San Francisco fountain.[57]
  • Convent of Santo Domingo (Xátiva) [es]: Built in the 14th century, it included a refectory, cloister, chapter house, and church. Mostly demolished, it is being restored as a cultural center.[58]
  • Convent of San Onofre el Nuevo: Built between 1715 and 1721 opposite the Church of San Pedro, near the former Cocentaina Gate, it features a two-story cloister and a church with tiles and frescoes.[59]
  • Former Convent of La Trinidad [es]: Dating to the 15th century, only its Flamboyant Gothic portal remains, now housing the Municipal Archive.[60] The nearby 14th-century Trinidad fountain features an octagonal prism with faded Xàtiva and Kingdom of Valencia coats of arms.[61]
  • Former Convent of San Agustín: Built in the 17th century, it features a magnificent Classicist cloister and is now the UNED seat. Its deconsecrated church, partially without its bell tower due to a collapse, is a concert hall.[62]
  • Hermitage of Santa Ana: A Gothic structure from the early 15th century, with a single nave, three ribbed vaults, and an apse. Its capitals feature the coats of arms of the Crown of Aragon, Xàtiva, and the Borgia family.[63]
  • Hermitage of San José: Built in the early 18th century to plans by architect Francisco Cuenca, it has a Latin cross plan with a semicircular apse and side chapels. Its tower incorporates the former Santa Bárbara hermitage and a sealed door, traditionally the Aljama entrance used by James I of Aragon after the conquest.[64]

Civil heritage

[edit]
Courtyard of the Almodí
Hospital Municipal de Játiva [es]
Facade of the Casa de la Enseñanza
  • Almodí Museum [es]: A Gothic building constructed between 1530 and 1548, notable for its facade and inner courtyard with Ionic columns. The ground floor was used for wheat trading, while the upper floor stored grain until 1919, when it became the Fine Arts Museum and later the City Museum.[47] It displays the famous upside-down portrait of Philip V of Spain, symbolizing the city's resentment for his ordering its burning.[65]
  • Hospital Municipal de Játiva [es] : Begun in the 15th century and completed in the mid-16th century, it was destroyed in 1707 and rebuilt in the early 18th century.[66] Its quadrangular plan includes a courtyard and garden. The stone facade is Renaissance, with a Plateresque main portal and a Late Gothic chapel portal. Notable are the four main-floor windows, a gallery of small balconies with semicircular arches under the eaves, and a fountain in the garden. The chapel's original vault of the Assumption is preserved.[66] Part remains in medical use, while the most architecturally significant portion houses the La Costera Commonwealth.[47]
  • Casa de la Enseñanza [es]: A Classicist building from 1758, designed by Carmelite friar José Alberto Pina, it now hosts the city's Fine Arts Museum.
  • Birthplace of Alexander VI: A 16th-century urban palace where Pope Alexander VI was born and resided in Spain. It features a wide-arched portal and an inner semicircular arch with Ionic columns.[67]
  • Palace of Alarcón: Built between 1715 and 1730, it now serves as the Palace of Justice.[47] It features a grand volume lightened by an upper loggia, a dovetailed and blazoned portal, and a wrought-iron balcony.[68]
  • Palace of Mahíques Sanz [es]: Begun in the early 17th century and expanded in the 1920s, it now houses the city's House of Culture.[69]
  • Palace of the Marquis of Montortal: Located on the noble Moncada street, this 15th-century medieval urban palace features a stone portal with long dovetails and wrought-iron balconies with tiles.[70]
  • Palace of the Archdeacon: Built in the 15th century as the archdeacon's seat near the Seo, its portal bears the coat of arms of Callixtus III and two from the Borja-Oms branch, possibly linked to Rodrigo or Cesare Borgia.[71]
  • Palace of the Lords of Estubeny: An 18th-century urban palace with 19th-century ornamental additions, it briefly hosted Queen
  • Palace of the Lords of Estubeny: An urban palace adhering to 18th-century architectural standards with 19th-century ornamental additions, where Queen Isabella II of Spain briefly resided during her stay in Xàtiva.
  • Edificio Botella [es]: A residential building in the Modernist style, constructed in 1906, located opposite the town hall where the city wall and part of the Portal del Lleó once stood. The fountain associated with the portal was later moved a few meters to the left when facing the main façade. It was the first building in the Valencian Community to use iron beams alongside traditional wooden ones. Notable features include its intricately carved wooden lookout tower topped with iron balconies.

Historic fountains

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Trinity Fountain
  • Fuente del León [es]: A historical and ornamental fountain from the 19th century, located in the city center.
  • Twenty-Five Spouts Fountain [es]: A historical and ornamental fountain from the 18th century, situated in the San Pedro neighborhood.
  • Convent of Trinidad [es]: A historical and ornamental fountain from the 15th century, located in the Plaça de la Trinitat.
  • Aldomar Fountain [es]: A historical and ornamental fountain from the 18th century, situated in the Plaça d'Aleixandre VI.
  • Roca Square Royal Fountain: Constructed in 1841, this central-plan fountain features an elongated basin with semicircular ends and a hexagonal stone pillar, clearly Gothic in style, likely repurposed from an earlier fountain dated 1432.
  • San Francisco Royal Fountain: Rebuilt in 1764 by stonemason Marcos Piqueres in the Baroque style. It features an image of Saint Francis above the basin, replacing the original statue lost in the late 19th century.
  • Fish Royal Fountain: A central-plan fountain designed for animals to drink from the basin and humans from its four spouts. Built in the mid-19th century for the Plaça de la Bassa, it was relocated to its current position in the Plaça del Trinquet in 1972.
  • Santo Domingo Fountain: A small square-basin fountain with modest dimensions and a simple pillar adorned with ornamental spouts.

Museums

[edit]
  • City Museum: Located in the Municipal Almodín Museum, the oldest in Xàtiva, on Corretgeria street, it was inaugurated in 1917, with its collections declared a Bien de Interés Cultural (BIC) in 1962.[72] It displays artifacts from Xàtiva's history, ranging from Paleolithic remains found in Cova Negra to items from the Islamic period, including a unique 11th-century basin significant in Islamic culture.[73]
  • Fine Arts Museum: Housed in the Casa de la Enseñanza [es], inaugurated in 2015,[74] it features painting collections by artists such as Ribera, Goya, Vicente López, Santiago Rusiñol, Benlliure, and Antoni Miró. The museum also houses the iconic portrait of Philip V, moved from the Municipal Almodín Museum, displayed upside down as a symbol of the city's resentment for his ordering the burning and destruction of Xàtiva in 1707 during the heroic defense against Bourbon troops in the War of the Spanish Succession.[75]
Façade of the Gran Teatro de Xàtiva
  • Collegiate Museum: Located inside the Collegiate Basilica (la Seu), inaugurated in 1996,[76] it showcases a notable collection of sacred art, including Gothic paintings. Highlights include a painting of Saint Sebastian attributed to Jacomart, traditionally believed to have been modeled after the poet Ausiàs March, and a golden Gothic chalice donated by Pope Callixtus III to the city's Collegiate Basilica.[77]
  • Corpus Museum: Located in Casa Santandreu, part of the former Santo Domingo Convent complex, inaugurated in 2019,[78] it contains instruments, costumes, and objects, including giants and big-heads [es], from the city's Corpus Christi procession, dating back to the 14th century.[79]

Theaters

[edit]
  • Gran Teatro: Inaugurated in 2001,[80] the building, designed by architect Gerardo Ayala, has a capacity of 800 seats and includes a commercial area. It serves multiple purposes, hosting concerts, operas, theatrical performances, institutional events, and conferences.

Festivals

[edit]
  • August Fair [es] or Xàtiva Fair: Celebrated from August 15 to 20 by royal privilege of James I of Aragon since 1250,[81] it is declared a Festival of National Tourist Interest.[82] Over five days, the streets and squares of Xàtiva host fairground attractions, commercial stalls, and cultural activities, attracting up to 250,000 people.[83] The livestock fair, the original purpose of the event, has become secondary, though it remains appealing during the first three days' Cattle Fair. Notable events include the draft horse pulling contest, the traditional albaes singing night, the classic motorcycle racing trophy [es] on an urban circuit, and the revived Festival de la Cançó.[84]
  • Corpus Christi: Documented since the 14th century, it is celebrated in June with processions of giants and big-heads [es] and reenactments of biblical scenes.[82] A distinctive feature of Xàtiva's Corpus Christi is the enramada (l'enramà), where aromatic plants are scattered on the streets before the procession, forming a vegetal carpet.[85]
  • Fallas de Játiva [es] : Celebrated from March 15 to 19, as in much of the Province of Valencia, in honor of Saint Joseph.[82] Xàtiva was the second city after Valencia to erect fallas, starting in 1865 with the first monument in the Plaça de la Trinitat. The local fallas currently involve 19 commissions.[86]
  • Xàtiva Holy Week [es]: Various processions feature 17th-century images, among the most significant in the Valencian Community,[82] with origins dating to the late Middle Ages. The city currently has a Brotherhood of sixteen confraternities and has recently been declared a Festival of Provincial Tourist Interest.[87]

Main sights

[edit]

Xàtiva is built on the margin of a fertile plain, and on the northern slopes of the Monte Vernissa, a hill with two peaks crowned by Xativa Castle.[5]

The Collegiate Basilica, dating from 1414, but rebuilt about a century later in the Renaissance style, was formerly a cathedral, and is the chief among many churches and convents. The town-hall and a church on the castle hill are partly constructed of inscribed Roman masonry, and several houses date from the Moorish period.[5]

Other sights include:

Panoramic view of Xàtiva

Cuisine

[edit]

The most traditional dishes are rice-based, particularly the casserole of baked rice [es] (arrós al forn), also known as rice with tanda (arrós amb tanda) or walked rice (arròs passejat). Other typical dishes include brothy rice (arròs caldós),rice with beans and turnips [es] (arròs amb fesols i naps), and white rice (arròs blanquet),[88] a baked rice dish made from the broth of boiled vegetables [es].[89]

Among desserts, the almoixàvenes [es] and arnadí [es], of Arab origin, stand out, made from pumpkin and almonds.[90]

Sister cities

[edit]

Xàtiva is twinned with Cocentaina, in Alicante, and Lleida, in the Province of Lleida, Catalonia.

Notable people

[edit]
Main page: Category:People from Xàtiva
[edit]

See also

[edit]

Notes

[edit]

References

[edit]
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

Xàtiva

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Xàtiva is a municipality and town in eastern Spain, located in the province of Valencia within the Valencian Community, serving as the capital of the La Costera comarca on the western bank of the Albaida River. With a population of approximately 30,378 residents as of 2024, it forms part of an integrated urban area exceeding 60,000 inhabitants and is renowned for its continuous habitation since the Paleolithic era, evidenced by Neanderthal remains from Cova Negra dating to around 30,000 years ago. Historically, Xàtiva emerged as a significant settlement under Roman, Visigothic, and Muslim rule before its reconquest by in 1244, after which it became the second-largest city in the Kingdom of and a center of printing and paper production in the late medieval period. The town gained prominence as the birthplace of the Borgia family, including Popes Callixtus III and Alexander VI, whose legacies underscore its influence during the . Designated a Historic-Artistic Site, Xàtiva features a commanding complex offering panoramic views, the Gothic of Santa María, and a wealth of and reflecting its prosperous past. Today, Xàtiva maintains a vibrant through traditions like Las Fallas—originating there in 1865 as one of the earliest celebrations outside —and its economy centered on , , and local industry, while preserving its medieval urban layout and over a thousand historic fountains. The town's strategic location at the junction of major transport routes enhances its role as a gateway to inland , blending empirical historical continuity with modern regional development.

Geography

Location and topography

Xàtiva is situated in the La Costera comarca of the , within the in eastern , at geographic coordinates 38°59′25″N 0°31′16″W. The city lies approximately 62 kilometers southwest of the city of , in the strategic Montesa corridor separating the basins of the Albaida River to the north and its tributary, the Cànyoles River, to the south. This positioning places Xàtiva amid the transitional terrain between the coastal plains of the Mediterranean and the interior highlands of the . The municipality spans 76.6 square kilometers, with the urban center at an elevation of 115 meters above . Topographically, Xàtiva occupies a setting framed by rolling hills and steeper rises, including smaller s to the east and west, while higher mountains rise prominently to the south. Within a 3-kilometer , the exhibits significant variation, with elevation changes reaching up to 359 meters from lowlands to hilltops, contributing to a diverse micro-relief that includes slopes suitable for and historical fortifications. The surrounding landscape features the Albaida River , which supports irrigated plains historically used for crops like oranges, alongside drier upland areas.

Climate

Xàtiva features a hot-summer (Köppen Csa), marked by extended hot and arid summers, mild winters, and concentrated in the cooler months. The annual average temperature is approximately 17 °C (63 °F), with significant seasonal variation: summer highs often exceed 32 °C (90 °F) in , while winter lows dip to around 5 °C (41 °F) in . Precipitation averages 541 mm annually, predominantly falling between and May, with the defined by a greater than 10% daily chance of . is the wettest month, recording about 38 mm (1.5 inches) over an average of 5.2 days with at least 1 mm of . In contrast, the spans from late May to early , with July the driest at roughly 5 mm (0.2 inches) and only 0.9 wet days. Summers exhibit high humidity, peaking in August with about 13 muggy days, while is minimal (around 11% in ), fostering clear skies and intense sunshine. Winters remain relatively mild, with occasional but rare snowfall due to the coastal influence of the nearby .

History

Pre-Roman and Roman eras

The territory of present-day Xàtiva was inhabited during the , with evidence of early settlements in nearby caves such as Cova Negra, though organized urban development emerged later among Iberian tribes. The site featured a pre-Roman Iberian on the prominent hill overlooking the Albaida valley, serving as a fortified settlement for local groups akin to the Contestani, who controlled much of the eastern . This stronghold predated Roman influence and capitalized on the area's strategic position along natural trade routes. In the early 3rd century BC, during the Second Punic War, Carthaginian forces under Hannibal seized the Iberian fortress, utilizing it as a logistical base for operations in Hispania Tarraconensis, including preparations for the assault on nearby Saguntum in 219 BC. Roman legions subsequently captured the site after Hannibal's defeat at the Battle of Zama in 202 BC, integrating it into the expanding Republic's provincial system. Under Roman rule, the settlement was redesignated Saetabis and flourished as a with a documented economy centered on production, earning mentions in classical for its high-quality fabrics. Positioned along the , it benefited from imperial infrastructure, including roads and aqueducts that supported agricultural and commercial growth; archaeological layers beneath the later reveal foundations of Roman-era buildings, walls, and artifacts confirming its role as a regional hub until the 4th century AD.

Islamic period and medieval prosperity

Xàtiva fell to Muslim forces under in 714, shortly after the initial conquest of the , marking the beginning of its integration into as Medina Xátiba. The city initially served as the head of a kora (), later falling under the Umayyad emirate and , which centralized administration and expanded its fortifications, including the castles that became key defensive structures. During the caliphal period and subsequent taifa fragmentation after 1031, Xàtiva experienced economic and cultural growth, driven by advanced systems that boosted in the surrounding fertile valleys, producing crops like , fruits, and almonds for local and regional markets. The city's strategic facilitated routes connecting inland areas to Mediterranean ports, enhancing in textiles, ceramics, and agricultural goods. A hallmark of this prosperity was the establishment of Europe's first paper mill in Xàtiva during the 11th or early 12th century, adapting hydraulic technology from earlier olive presses to produce paper from rags and plant fibers, which supported administrative records, scholarship, and export to other Islamic territories and eventually Europe. Geographer Muhammad al-Idrisi noted the mill's operation around 1154, highlighting Xàtiva's role in disseminating papermaking techniques acquired via Muslim North Africa from China. This industrial innovation, alongside silk production and artisan crafts, contributed to urban expansion and wealth accumulation, as evidenced by architectural remnants like the finely carved "Pila de Xátiva" basin from a possible palace or aljama structure. The Almoravid occupation in 1092 briefly disrupted but did not halt this trajectory, as Xàtiva remained a vital center until temporary Christian incursions, such as El Cid's capture in 1094, which were reversed soon after. Overall, the Islamic era transformed Xàtiva from a Roman provincial town into a prosperous hub of technical and economic advancement, underpinned by and inter-regional exchange.

Christian reconquest and integration

King James I of initiated military operations against Xàtiva (then Játiva) in the summer of 1239 as part of his campaign to conquer the Kingdom of , following the fall of city in 1238. After initial unsuccessful s, he resumed the effort in January 1244 amid pressures from Castile's advances, culminating in the city's capitulation on May 22, 1244, after a five-month . The conquest was formalized through the Treaty of Xàtiva, a bilingual surrender agreement negotiated between James I and the Muslim ruling Banū ʿĪsā family, led by figures including , which allowed the Muslim population to submit without total expulsion. The treaty granted the Mudéjar (Muslim residents under Christian rule) community specific protections, including rights to maintain their religious practices, property, and communal organization via an aljama (self-governing body), in exchange for tribute payments and loyalty oaths to the crown. This arrangement reflected pragmatic diplomacy, as detailed in James I's Llibre dels fets, prioritizing economic continuity from the city's agricultural and textile productivity over immediate displacement. However, the Mudéjars faced immediate restrictions, such as bans on bearing arms and requirements to vacate the upper castle, with the Banū ʿĪsā family retaining a lower fortress under supervision. Christian integration proceeded through repopulation (repoblación), with James I issuing a (carta puebla) to attract Catalan, Aragonese, and Navarrese settlers, who received land grants, tax exemptions for several years, and municipal privileges to foster loyalty and economic revival. By the late 1240s, these settlers formed the basis of the Christian elite, intermarrying sparingly with locals while dominating governance; the population, initially comprising a majority, gradually declined due to , revolts (notably in 1276), and conversion pressures amid rising Christian demographic dominance. Xàtiva emerged as the second-largest city in the Kingdom of post-conquest, benefiting from its strategic location and the influx of Christian institutions like churches and markets, which supplanted Islamic structures while preserving some labor in crafts. Tensions persisted, with the 1276 revolt prompting harsher oversight, yet the community's aljama endured until the early , adapting to fiscal impositions and legal subordinations that underscored unequal integration. Over decades, many s migrated to or , accelerating Christian by the 1320s.

Absolutist era and the War of the Spanish Succession

During the late under Charles II, Xàtiva experienced efforts toward centralized absolutist rule, though the kingdom's traditional fueros preserved significant local autonomy and prosperity derived from textile production and . The city's strategic and position made it a focal point of resistance when the erupted in 1701, with Xàtiva aligning with the Habsburg pretender Archduke Charles against the Bourbon claimant Philip V, reflecting broader Valencian opposition to perceived threats to regional privileges. Following the decisive Bourbon victory at the on April 25, 1707, General Claude d'Asfeld led 3,500 troops to besiege Xàtiva on May 8, reinforced by larger Castilian and French forces totaling 9,000 to 11,000 men under overall Bourbon command. Local leaders, including Miquel Purroi and Josep Blanch, organized defenses from the castle, but after weeks of bombardment that breached the walls, the city surrendered on June 6, 1707. In direct response to this prolonged defiance, Philip V issued orders on June 19, 1707, to raze the city, deport approximately 14,000 inhabitants to as punitive relocation, execute several ringleaders by garrote, and sow salt on surrounding fields to symbolize desolation. The destruction exemplified Bourbon absolutist policy, enabling the swift enactment of the Nueva Planta decree for the Kingdom of on June 29, 1707, which dismantled its Cortes, laws, and institutions, subordinating them to Castilian models and central royal authority. Xàtiva was renamed San Felipe in homage to the king, and its repopulation proceeded slowly under oversight, with reconstruction limited to basic structures by the mid-18th century; the castle suffered irreparable damage, reducing the city's former economic and administrative prominence. This episode underscored the causal link between suppression and the consolidation of absolutism, as local resistance directly precipitated the forfeiture of autonomies across eastern .

Industrialization and modern developments

Following the punitive measures imposed after the , including the 1707 sacking of the city and its administrative demotion, Xàtiva experienced prolonged economic stagnation through the 18th and much of the 19th centuries. The city's exclusion from the rerouted Camino Real connecting to marginalized it from major trade routes, exacerbating decline in what had been a prosperous and paper-producing center. Agrarian activities dominated, with land ownership concentrated among small and medium proprietors focused on crops like olives, grapes, and cereals; by mid-century, properties averaged under 5 hectares, supporting subsistence farming rather than export-oriented growth. Industrial development remained nascent, building modestly on medieval paper-making traditions but hampered by limited capital and infrastructure. Small-scale mills persisted into the , producing rag-based for regional markets, though output dwindled amid competition from larger Valencian operations. Ancillary sectors like tile manufacturing (azulejos) saw localized innovation, with Xàtiva-born artisan Marcos Honorato contributing to Valencian techniques from the late onward, but these did not scale to factory levels until the 20th. The introduction of rail links in the 1860s, connecting Xàtiva to and , enabled modest export of agricultural goods and facilitated raw material inflows, marking an initial step toward integration into broader Iberian networks. Early 20th-century modernization reflected cautious industrial emergence, evidenced by the proliferation of modernist architecture signaling rising merchant wealth from and nascent . Small enterprises in textiles and took root, leveraging the region's agricultural base; by the , firms producing woven goods and preserves contributed to local employment, though overshadowed by Valencia's larger mechanized sector. Urban expansion filled gaps between the historic core and rail lines, incorporating industrial zones that supported vehicle components and cooperatives by mid-century, transitioning Xàtiva from agrarian isolation toward diversified, service-augmented production.

Contemporary era and infrastructure

Following Spain's transition to democracy after Francisco Franco's death in 1975, Xàtiva underwent modernization efforts aligned with national integration into the European Union in 1986, shifting economically toward services and tourism while preserving its historical core. The city's population grew steadily, reaching 30,378 inhabitants as of January 1, 2024, surpassing 30,000 for the first time and reflecting urban expansion in the surrounding functional area. Key infrastructure developments include the , opened in 1984 as a university hospital with 240 beds and 30 specialties, serving approximately 210,000 residents in the Xàtiva-Ontinyent health department and marking advancements in regional medical care. Transportation infrastructure features the Xàtiva railway station, operational since the but modernized for regional C2 services connecting to and Moixent, alongside long-distance routes to , , and southern cities. In September 2025, the Xàtiva city council and ADIF advanced plans to reorganize the station and adjacent plaza in preparation for high-speed integration, enhancing accessibility, intermodality with bus services, and urban connectivity. Road networks link Xàtiva to the A7 motorway, facilitating access to (about 60 km north) and , supporting commuter and tourist traffic. Recent urban initiatives include a July 2025 pedestrian itinerary connecting the city center to commercial areas and a , alongside an 2025 phase of public lighting renewal under the urban safety plan, aimed at improving safety and sustainability in key accesses and western zones. These efforts underscore ongoing commitments to livable urban development amid pressures and heritage preservation.

Demographics

Population dynamics

The population of Xàtiva has exhibited steady long-term growth, increasing from 12,600 inhabitants in 1900 to 30,378 as of January 1, 2024, according to official Spanish National Institute of Statistics (INE) figures aggregated in demographic records. This represents an overall doubling over more than a century, with notable acceleration in the post-World War II era and the early , interspersed by periods of stagnation or minor decline linked to economic cycles. Key milestones in population evolution include:
YearPopulation
190012,600
195018,092
198123,755
199624,758
200829,363
201129,469
202029,623
202430,378
Early 20th-century growth was modest, driven by agricultural stability in the region's fertile La Costera comarca, but slowed during the and immediate postwar years, with a dip from 18,263 in 1940 to 18,092 in 1950 amid rural exodus and economic hardship. The 1980s and 1990s saw gradual increases to around 25,000, peaking briefly before a slight contraction in the mid-1990s possibly tied to industrial shifts away from traditional textiles and ceramics. A significant surge occurred from the late to 2008, with population rising over 18% to 29,363, fueled by Spain's economic boom, inward migration from and , and local job opportunities in manufacturing and services. The 2008 global financial crisis prompted a plateau and minor declines through the , bottoming at 28,973 in 2016, as in Valencia province exceeded 25% and some migrants returned home. Recovery resumed post-2020, with annual gains averaging 0.74% from 2021 to 2024, attributed to renewed in and , alongside from Morocco, , , and , which has offset low native birth rates. By October 2025, municipal records indicated the population nearing 32,000, consolidating this upward trend despite broader Spanish demographic challenges like aging.

Linguistic and cultural composition

Xàtiva's residents are predominantly bilingual, with Spanish and Valencian serving as co-official languages under regional statutes. A 2025 parental consultation on the vehicular language for revealed that 69.46% of families selected Valencian, versus 30.54% for Spanish, underscoring a marked inclination toward the regional language in formal instruction within the . This preference aligns with broader trends in the Costera , where Valencian garnered 77% support, facilitated by municipal efforts to incentivize its everyday application, including annual awards for businesses employing it in customer interactions. Culturally, the populace remains largely homogeneous, rooted in historical Christian repopulation following the medieval reconquest, with native Spanish-born individuals comprising 83.985% of the approximately 31,720 residents as of October 2025. Immigrants and foreign-born residents account for the remaining 16.015%, or about 5,080 people, drawn primarily from , , and , though four leading nationalities represent half of this segment without specified dominance altering the overarching Valencian-Spanish cultural framework. Local identity emphasizes shared traditions like festivals and cuisine, tempered by incremental multicultural inputs from these communities, yet without substantial shifts in the dominant socio-cultural norms.

Economy

Historical foundations

Xàtiva's economy originated in its strategic location in the fertile Albaida valley, supporting as the primary wealth source from antiquity, with crops including cereals, olives, and vines cultivated in the irrigated huerta alongside livestock rearing. Proximity to the Roman Via Augusta enhanced trade, positioning the city as a commercial hub linking inland areas to coastal ports, while Iberian-era minting of indicates early monetary activity. In Roman times, linen textile production gained prominence, with the city's fabrics praised by poets like and for quality, derived from grown locally and processed in workshops. The Islamic period marked a pivotal advancement with the establishment of Europe's first paper mill around 1144–1151, utilizing water-powered mills originally for olives, converted to process hemp and linen rags into high-quality paper exported across the Mediterranean. Arab geographer noted in 1154 that Xàtiva's surpassed any produced elsewhere, fostering dissemination and integrating the city into broader Islamic networks for raw materials and finished goods. This innovation complemented ongoing weaving and agricultural exports, with Xàtiva emerging alongside Alzira as a key commercial center in Valencia's huerta by the 12th century. Post-reconquest, these foundations persisted under Christian rule, with and crafts sustaining guild-based industries into the late medieval era, though reliant on hydraulic resources from the river and acequias for milling and . Agricultural surpluses fueled markets, but the economy's specialization laid groundwork for later diversification, despite vulnerabilities to regional conflicts and route shifts.

Current industries and challenges

The economy of Xàtiva has shifted toward a service-dominated model, with and comprising the primary drivers of and growth. The city's historical landmarks, including its and old town, attract visitors, supporting local , retail, and related activities; in 2023, Xàtiva was designated a municipality of tourist relevance by the , highlighting its role in regional promotion. Manufacturing persists as a key industrial component, particularly in and niche textiles. Hinojosa Packaging Group invested €30 million in expanding its Xàtiva facility in June 2023 to enhance production capacity. Specialized firms like Auromar continue textile operations, focusing on funeral fabrics and related products. , though diminished, supports cultivation in the surrounding La Costera area, contributing to local food processing and export. Challenges include adapting legacy industries to global competition and innovation demands. Initiatives in the Xàtiva functional area emphasize developing and apparel clusters alongside intermodal platforms to foster economic diversification. The broader Valencian manufacturing sector, including , has grappled with post-COVID recovery and disruptions, prompting strategic responses among clustered firms. Seasonal fluctuations in and reliance on small-to-medium enterprises expose the local economy to external shocks, such as economic downturns affecting visitor numbers.

Governance

Local administration

The local administration of Xàtiva is managed by the Ajuntament de Xàtiva, the municipal council headquartered in the historic on Plaça de l'Ajuntament. The executive power is vested in the , currently Roger Cerdá i Boluda of the Partido Socialista Obrero Español (PSOE), who was invested following the May 2023 municipal elections and revalidated his position with support from the local Xàtiva Unida party. Cerdá, born in 1979 and a licensed by training, leads a amid ongoing adjustments to departmental delegations, including a remodelación in October 2025 that reassigned responsibilities such as security to focus efforts under deputies like Xelo Angulo. The municipal corporation comprises 25 concejales elected every four years, with the 2023 elections yielding 10 seats for PSOE, 5 for Xàtiva Unida, and 4 for the Partido Popular (PP), alongside smaller representations from other parties including Vox and Compromís. The Pleno Municipal serves as the legislative body, convening for policy decisions, while the Junta de Gobierno Local handles executive functions under the alcalde's direction. Delegations cover areas such as , economic promotion, and , with recent approvals adapting the administrative plantilla to current needs. Administrative operations include a general registry office and specialized departments, supported by a staff recruited through oposiciones, such as the 2025 call for 9 administrative positions. The ayuntamiento maintains transparency through public access to plenaries, news, and organizational charts on its official portal.

Regional and national context

Xàtiva functions as a municipality within Spain's multilevel administrative structure, governed locally by its while subject to provincial, regional, and national oversight. The national framework, outlined in the 1978 Spanish Constitution and 5/1985 on Local Regime, delegates primary responsibilities for , public services, and local taxation to municipalities exceeding 20,000 inhabitants like Xàtiva, which qualifies for full corporate status with a and plenary council elected every four years. Provincial coordination occurs through the Deputation of , handling supramunicipal infrastructure such as roads and , though Xàtiva retains significant autonomy in daily operations. At the regional level, Xàtiva integrates into the via the , whose Statute of Autonomy—approved on July 9, 1982, and reformed in 2006—transfers competencies in education, healthcare, agriculture, and environmental policy from the central state. The 's Consell, led by a president elected by the (unicameral parliament with 99 seats as of 2023), allocates funding through mechanisms like the Valencian Financing Fund and enforces territorial plans, such as the 2013 Forest Action Territorial Plan affecting Xàtiva's comarca resources. As capital of La Costera comarca—defined under Valencian Law 14/2001 with 50 municipalities totaling around 85,000 residents—Xàtiva coordinates informally on and but lacks formal comarcal executive powers, which remain advisory. Nationally, the retains exclusive authority over defense, , and , with Xàtiva's judicial matters handled by the Juzgado de Primera Instancia e Instrucción No. 4 and higher courts under the Superior Court of Justice of the . Fiscal transfers from , governed by the 2009 on Financing of Autonomous Communities, support regional redistribution to municipalities, though Valencia's underfinancing—receiving 4.3% of GDP in transfers versus 4.6% national average in 2022—has prompted disputes over equity. This structure fosters cooperation, as seen in joint responses to EU-funded projects, but also occasional tensions over regulatory alignment, such as in 2025 judicial restructuring impacting Xàtiva's courts.

Culture and society

Language debates and identity

In Xàtiva, as in the broader , the primary language debate centers on the classification of the local Romance variety known as Valencian, which exhibits high with Catalan but is politically contested as either a co-official of a unified language or a distinct tongue tied to regional autonomy. Empirical surveys of language attitudes in indicate that identity strongly determines preference for the "Valencian" designation over "Catalan," with speakers viewing the latter as implying cultural subordination to , rooted in historical divergences such as Valencia's independent medieval kingdom and separate foral traditions. This sentiment persists despite linguistic analyses classifying Valencian as part of the Catalan dialect continuum, highlighting how post-Franco normalization efforts amplified identity-based resistance to pan-Catalanist frameworks. The Blaverist movement, emerging in the 1970s amid , exemplifies this tension by advocating Valencian exceptionalism and opposing linguistic unification with , often framing Catalanist promotion as an external imposition eroding local sovereignty. In Xàtiva, a city with deep historical roots in Valencian dating to its 13th-century , such debates intersect with cultural pride, as seen in invocations of maulet resistance symbolism to defend as a non-impositional essence of identity against perceived attacks on regional symbols. Local figures like singer Raimon, born in Xàtiva in 1940, have extended Catalan sovereignist discussions into Valencian discourse, prompting varied responses from writers who affirm free expression but reject broader independence implications for . Contemporary initiatives in Xàtiva reinforce this identity through voluntary promotion of Valencian in public spheres, such as 2025 municipal campaigns encouraging its use in commercial signage to vitalize the language as a marker of heritage without coercive policies, contrasting with claims of imposition elsewhere in the Community. Official data from the past four decades show no systemic enforcement of Valencian in education or administration locally, underscoring a pragmatic approach prioritizing cultural continuity over ideological unification. These efforts align with regional leadership's reclamation of Valencian linguistic identity, as articulated by Valencian president Carlos Mazón in 2025 critiques of federalist dilutions.

Festivals and traditions

Xàtiva's festivals reflect a blend of religious devotion, historical reenactments, and communal , rooted in medieval privileges and local customs. The Fallas festival, held annually from mid-March, features the construction and erection (plantà) of 19 large satirical monuments (falles) by neighborhood commissions, which critique contemporary events through . These are accompanied by displays from March 16 to 19, culminating in the cremà burning of the figures on March 19, , following a . Originating in 1865 in Plaça de la Trinitat, the event has evolved over 150 years, incorporating children's monuments, contests, and floral offerings, and was recognized by as in 2016. Holy Week (Semana Santa), observed in April, ranks among the oldest and most significant in the Valencian Community, with processions organized by a brotherhood of 16 cofradías dating back centuries. Key events include the Thursday procession of Jesús Nazareno, the tamborrada drum parade, and the Festa de la Borra, emphasizing solemn devotion through hooded penitents and sacred images. In 2025, it was declared a Fiesta de Interés Turístico Autonómico, highlighting unique elements like the pregón announcement and community masses. Corpus Christi in June features one of the region's earliest , centered on the , enhanced by danzadas—animated giants and figures that through streets, symbolizing historical and biblical narratives. This underscores Xàtiva's Catholic heritage with floral decorations and communal participation. The d'Agost, spanning August 15 to 20, traces to a 1250 charter by King Jaume I for livestock trade, evolving into a national tourist interest event with artisan markets, live performances, , and medieval-themed stalls. It precedes or overlaps patronal fiestas honoring Saint Feliu on August 1, marked by a to his hermitage, and the Virgin of the Seo on August 5, with a dedicated . These observances preserve Xàtiva's agrarian and devotional roots amid modern festivities.

Culinary heritage

Xàtiva's culinary tradition reflects its Mediterranean location in the , emphasizing as a staple crop from the surrounding Albufera region, alongside abundant , , and fruits. Local dishes prioritize fresh, seasonal ingredients, with rice preparations forming the core of meals, often cooked over wood fires for authentic flavor. Prominent rice-based specialties include arròs al forn, a baked rice dish layered with chickpeas, potatoes, and morcilla sausage, slow-cooked in a clay pot to absorb meat juices and develop a crispy crust. Other variants are arròs caldós, a lighter brothy rice with chicken or rabbit; arròs en fesols i naps, combining rice with broad beans and turnips for a hearty winter option; and arròs blanquet, featuring white rice with pork ribs and blood sausage. These recipes trace to agrarian practices dating back centuries, influenced by the area's Moorish agricultural legacy, which introduced advanced irrigation supporting rice cultivation. Vegetable highlights feature ajos tiernos, tender green garlic shoots harvested in spring, used in stews, omelets, or fried as a side, celebrated annually at a local festival since 1986 that draws producers and chefs to showcase this Protected product. Complementary elements include from nearby groves and wines from La Costera vineyards, pairing with grilled meats or . Desserts preserve and influences, notably arnadí, a pumpkin-based pudding enriched with , pine nuts, and , originating in Xàtiva during the medieval period and traditionally prepared for , with recipes documented in 15th-century archives. Other sweets encompass almoixàvena, a and cake; monjavina, an -derived honeyed pastry; and seasonal treats like tarts or torró de gat during November's Catalinetes . These confections underscore Xàtiva's role in preserving pre-expulsion culinary techniques from Muslim and Jewish communities in La Costera.

Landmarks

Xàtiva Castle

Xàtiva Castle consists of two connected fortifications, known as the Castillo Mayor (Major Castle) and Castillo Menor (Minor Castle), perched on a hill overlooking the city of Xàtiva in the , . The site features remnants of Iberian and Roman structures but primarily developed as a Muslim stronghold from the onward, with extensive medieval expansions. The castles served as a key defensive complex, controlling access along ancient routes like the , and played roles in major regional conflicts due to their elevated position and robust walls. The fortress's early history traces to pre-Roman times, with traditions linking it to Carthaginian general , who reportedly used the site in 218 BC to plan his of nearby Saguntum, igniting the Second Punic War. Following the Muslim conquest of Iberia in 714 AD, the castle was fortified by Abd-el-Aziz and later controlled by Almoravids in 1092 and Almohads in 1171, incorporating Arab-style towers and murallas (curtain walls) for defense. attempted but failed to capture it in 1099. In 1244, after a five-month , King James I of conquered the Minor Castle, with the Major Castle surrendering two years later, marking the Christian of the area and integrating it into the Kingdom of . Under Christian rule, the castles underwent modifications, including Gothic-era additions commissioned by James II in the 13th-14th centuries, such as sillería stone buildings for royal residences and cisterns. They faced further sieges during the (Germanías) in the 1520s and the , where in 1707 Bourbon forces under Philip V defeated pro-Habsburg defenders, leading to the castle's partial destruction and the city's punishment by fire. An in 1748 caused additional damage, diminishing its military role. Restoration efforts began under the democratic in 1979, culminating in public access improvements by 2003, preserving about 30 original towers and extensive walls. Architecturally, the Minor Castle, oriented eastward, preserves more medieval elements like the Aljama Synagogue ruins and a Roman-era , while the larger Major Castle features imposing western-facing murallas up to 12 meters high, adapted for in later centuries. The site's strategic value lay in its dual-layered defense system, allowing control over the fertile La Costera valley and trade routes, underscoring Xàtiva's historical prominence as a second-tier city in the Crown of . Today, it stands as a major cultural monument, drawing visitors for its panoramic views and historical exhibits, though some sections remain unrestored due to ongoing conservation challenges.

Historic old town and religious sites

The historic core of Xàtiva preserves a medieval layout of narrow, winding streets descending from the castle hill, interspersed with and palaces that attest to the city's aristocratic heritage following the Christian Reconquest in 1244. This urban fabric, largely rebuilt after the devastating fire of 1707 ordered by Philip V during the , integrates civil and religious architecture spanning Visigothic episcopal origins to later epochs. Key secular elements include the Palacio de Alarcón in Plaza de la Trinidad, a structure exemplifying the patrician residences that housed influential families like the Borgias. Prominent religious sites anchor the old town's spiritual history, beginning with the Church of Sant Feliu, the oldest extant parish church, constructed and completed by 1269 in Romanesque style shortly after the Reconquest. The focal monument is the Collegiate Basilica of Santa Maria, also known as La Seu, erected starting in 1596 on the foundations of a former and spanning construction over four centuries until 1916, resulting in an unfinished edifice blending Gothic, , and elements. Its Baroque main portal and high altar designed by Ventura Rodríguez in the 18th century highlight neoclassical influences, while the interior houses tombs of Borgia family members, including relatives of Popes Callixtus III and Alexander VI, in a chapel established in the late 14th century. The basilica's elevation to status underscores Xàtiva's enduring significance, rooted in its Visigothic bishopric.

Museums and public monuments

The Almodí Municipal Museum, located in a former 14th- to 16th-century building, specializes in and displays artifacts from Xàtiva's prehistoric periods, including reproductions of Palaeolithic remains excavated from the nearby Cova Negra cave dating back over 30,000 years. The museum spans three floors with exhibits on up to the medieval era, emphasizing the site's role as a grain storage facility before its conversion in the 20th century. The Museum of Fine Arts houses one of the region's premier public collections of Valencian pictorial art, featuring over 200 works from the 15th to 19th centuries, including pieces by notable artists such as José de Ribera and local masters from the Xàtiva school. Established in the early , it draws from donations and acquisitions tied to the city's artistic heritage, with highlights like altarpieces and canvases that reflect Xàtiva's cultural prominence under Habsburg rule. The Collegiate Basilica Museum, adjacent to the historic church, preserves religious artifacts, liturgical objects, and medieval manuscripts salvaged from the site, offering insights into ecclesiastical art from the onward. Among public monuments, the Royal Hospital (Antic Hospital Reial), founded by King James I in 1244, exemplifies Gothic-Renaissance fusion with its arcaded and stone facades, originally serving as a charitable before becoming a protected historical site in the . The structure's enduring role in civic life underscores Xàtiva's medieval administrative evolution, with restorations preserving original elements from its expansion phases. Plaza de la Trinidad and the adjacent Market Square (Plaça del Mercat) feature neoclassical porticos and fountains dating to the 18th-19th centuries, commemorating the city's market traditions and serving as open-air monuments to its commercial history under .

Notable individuals

Political and ecclesiastical figures

Rodrigo de Borja, born in Xàtiva on 1 January 1431, ascended to the papacy as Alexander VI on 11 August 1492, reigning until his death on 18 August 1503. As pope, he prioritized familial advancement, appointing relatives to high ecclesiastical and secular positions, which fueled accusations of and moral laxity during his tenure amid the Italian Renaissance's political intrigues. The Borgia family, with roots in Xàtiva since at least 1378, also elevated —born nearby in Canals on 31 December 1378—to in 1455; he served until 6 August 1458, notably initiating inquiries into Joan of Arc's trial and promoting crusade efforts against the Ottomans following Constantinople's fall in 1453. Among political figures, Joaquín Lorenzo Villanueva y Povedano (1757–1837), born in Xàtiva, emerged as a key liberal deputy in the from 1810 to 1813, where he championed ecclesiastical reforms, , and amid Spain's resistance to Napoleonic occupation. In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, Alfonso Rus Terol, born in Xàtiva on 13 October 1950, led the People's Party locally, serving as from 1995 to 2015 and president of the Valencia Provincial Council from 2007 to 2011; he faced judicial scrutiny for alleged tied to public contract awards in the Gürtel network, leading to his resignation in 2016.

Artists and intellectuals

Jusepe de Ribera, baptized on 17 February 1591 in Xàtiva, emerged as one of the most influential painters of the Spanish Baroque, specializing in tenebrist compositions that emphasized dramatic lighting and realistic depictions of human suffering in religious and mythological subjects. After early training likely under local influences in , he relocated to around 1616, settling in where he dominated the viceregal art scene until his death on 2 September 1652. His oeuvre includes seminal works such as The Martyrdom of Saint Bartholomew (1630s), featuring visceral anatomical detail, and The Clubfooted Boy (1642), a poignant study of physical deformity rendered with unflinching naturalism. Ribera's adoption of Caravaggesque techniques, adapted to a distinctly Spanish intensity, positioned him alongside Velázquez and Zurbarán as a pillar of 17th-century Iberian art, though his isolation in limited direct court patronage from . In the modern era, Artur Heras (born 1945), a multifaceted from Xàtiva, has contributed to , , and , drawing initial inspiration from during his studies at Valencia's San Carlos Faculty of Fine Arts in the . Heras gained recognition through early experimental works, including a 1964 award at the Salón Internacional de Pintura, and later exhibitions exploring obsolescence in amid digital shifts, as showcased in over 200 pieces at the University of Valencia's Nau museum in 2024. His practice reflects a commitment to materiality and memory, bridging Valencian traditions with broader European abstraction, evidenced in series like Tathin III (1999), a mixed-media emphasizing tactile form. Xàtiva's intellectual legacy traces to medieval Islamic rule, when it hosted scholarly circles and innovations praised by geographer Al-Idrisi in the 12th century for producing high-quality sheets rivaling those of . This environment fostered erudition, though specific surviving names from that period remain sparse in primary records; later in the region amplified artistic output, as seen in Ribera's formative years amid Xàtiva's recovering cultural fabric post-Reconquista devastation in 1521. Contemporary contributions include local historians and poets, but no singular towering intellectual dominates beyond artistic lineages.

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  101. https://lamomaapartments.com/que-comer-en-xativa/
  102. https://ganesheclectico.com/en/descubre-la-espectacular-gastronomia-de-xativa-platos-tipicos-que-debes-probar/
  103. https://www.levante-emv.com/costera/2024/03/29/duce-tipico-xativa-triunfa-semana-100415801.html
  104. https://portaldexativa.es/xativa/gastronomia/
  105. https://www.academia.edu/109965554/Lingering_Flavors_The_Morisco_Heritage_in_Southeast_Spain_Through_its_Traditional_Recipes
  106. https://xativaturismo.com/en/xativa-castle-2-2/
  107. https://arqueotrip.com/castillo-de-xativa/
  108. https://castillosricsol.es/castillo-de-jativa/
  109. https://riunet.upv.es/bitstreams/0ea5745c-4db2-4ccf-95e7-38ccb85cb88b/download
  110. https://diariodeunavividora.com/los-secretos-de-xativa-el-legado-de-los-borja/
  111. https://tapiabrick.blogs.upv.es/files/2014/02/067.pdf
  112. https://connectingvalencia.com/province/xativa/
  113. https://valencia.for91days.com/xativa/
  114. https://www.spain.info/en/places-of-interest/collegiate-basilica-santa-maria-or-seo/
  115. https://www.comunitatvalenciana.com/en/valencia/xativa/monuments/iglesia-colegiata-de-la-asuncion-de-nuestra-senora
  116. https://xativaturismo.com/en/the-city-of-the-borgias/
  117. https://xativaturismo.com/en/the-almodi-museum/
  118. https://turismelacostera.com/en/museums/almodi-museum-xativa/
  119. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g1100117-d7100412-Reviews-Museo_Municipal_Almodi-Xativa_Province_of_Valencia_Valencian_Community.html
  120. https://xativaturismo.com/en/the-museum-of-fine-arts/
  121. https://whichmuseum.com/museum/museum-of-fine-arts-jativa-32160
  122. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g1100117-Activities-c49-Xativa_Province_of_Valencia_Valencian_Community.html
  123. https://biveros.com/xativa-spain/
  124. https://whichmuseum.com/place/jativa-13489
  125. https://wanderlog.com/list/geoCategory/1589867/top-things-to-do-and-attractions-in-xativa
  126. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g1100117-Activities-c47-t3-Xativa_Province_of_Valencia_Valencian_Community.html
  127. https://happylittletraveler.com/things-to-do-in-xativa-spain-in-one-day/
  128. https://xativaturismo.com/en/land-of-the-borgias/
  129. https://www.history.co.uk/articles/stories-about-the-borgias-family
  130. https://www.cervantesvirtual.com/portales/liberales_valencianos/imagenes_personajes/
  131. https://www.rtve.es/noticias/20160126/alfonso-rus-exdirigente-del-pp-aseguraba-habia-complot-contra/1290568.shtml
  132. https://spanisharts.com/prado/ribera/in_ribera.html
  133. https://www.artble.com/artists/jusepe_de_ribera/more_information/biography
  134. https://www.gerrymartinez.com/jusepe-de-ribera-famous-paintings/
  135. http://www.visual-arts-cork.com/old-masters/ribera-jusepe.htm
  136. https://www.mediavaca.com/en/illustrators/heras-artur
  137. https://proyector.info/en/profile/artur-heras/
  138. https://www.uv.es/uvweb/uv-news/en/news/universitat-de-valencia-opens-an-art-exhibition-artur-heras-memory-more-than-200-pieces-la-nau-1285973304159/Novetat.html?id=1286405333093&plantilla=UV_Noticies/Page/TPGDetaillNews
  139. https://euroace.net/2023/01/18/the-historic-town-of-xativa/
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