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The 21 Club, often simply 21, was a traditional American cuisine restaurant and former prohibition-era speakeasy, located at 21 West 52nd Street in New York City.[1] Prior to its closure in 2020, the club had been active for 90 years, and it had hosted almost every US president since Franklin Delano Roosevelt. It had a hidden wine cellar where it stored the collections of celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren.[2] One of its signatures were 37 statues of racing jockeys donated by patrons, the uniforms of many painted to match the winning jockeys of horses they owned.[3]

Key Information

After being shut down by the COVID-19 pandemic, the establishment announced in December 2020 that it would not reopen "in its current form for the foreseeable future" and was considering how to keep the restaurant a viable operation in the long term.

History

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First version and Prohibition

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The first version of the club opened in Greenwich Village in 1922, run by cousins Jack Kriendler and Charlie Berns. It was originally a small speakeasy known as the Red Head. In 1925 the location was moved to a basement on Washington Place and its name was changed to Frontón. The following year it moved uptown to 42 West 49th Street, changed its name to the Puncheon Club, and became much more exclusive.[4]

In late 1929, to make way for the construction of Rockefeller Center, the club moved to 21 West 52nd Street and changed its name to Jack and Charlie's "21".[5] It opened at that location on January 1, 1930, when it was estimated there were 32,000 speakeasies in New York City.[6] Although raided by police on many occasions during Prohibition, the premises staff had methods to protect the club from the authorities. As soon as a raid began, a system of levers was used to tip the shelves of the bar, sweeping the liquor bottles through a chute and into the city's sewers.[7] The bar also included a secret wine cellar, which was accessed through a hidden door[2] in a brick wall which opened into the basement of the building next door (number 19). Though still used as a wine cellar after Prohibition, part of the vault has been remodeled to allow a party of up to 20 guests to dine in private. The club also stored the private wine collections of John F. Kennedy; Richard Nixon; Gerald Ford; Joan Crawford; Elizabeth Taylor; Hugh Carey; Ernest Hemingway; the Nordstrom sisters; Frank Sinatra; Al Jolson; Gloria Vanderbilt; Sophia Loren; Mae West; Aristotle Onassis; Gene Kelly; Gloria Swanson; Judy Garland; Sammy Davis Jr.; and Marilyn Monroe. The bar is mentioned several times in David Niven's memoirs, Bring on the Empty Horses; he was given a job by J+C selling liquor following the end of prohibition, and went there with director John Huston on their return from the war.[8]

According to The New York Times, in 1950, when most burgers were the cost of a dime at coffee shops, 21 Club charged $2.75.[6] The prestigious International Debutante Ball, which has presented many daughters and granddaughters of U.S. presidents to high society at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York City, has hosted its pre-ball parties at 21 Club.[9]

New owners and dress code

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In 1985, the Kriendler and Berns families sold their interests in the restaurant to General Felt Industries, a holding company headed by Marshall S. Cogan and Stephen Swid.[10][11] Ten years later, Cogan and Swid sold the restaurant to Orient-Express Hotels.[12] In 1995 it became part of Orient-Express Hotels Ltd. which in 2014 changed its name to Belmond Ltd.[citation needed]

On January 24, 2009, it ended its long-standing policy of requiring men to wear neckties at dinner. Wearing a jacket, however, was still required,[13] and loaner jackets by Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren were available for men to borrow if they had neglected to bring one.[14] In mid-2015, all 37 jockeys were removed for a three-month artist restoration; they returned on October 21, 2015, for a ribbon-cutting.[3]

Pandemic and closure

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In March 2020, indoor dining at all New York City restaurants, including 21 Club, ceased due to the COVID-19 pandemic.[15] In November 2020, the club's managers stated that it had made the decision to keep the club permanently closed.[16][17] The signature jockey statues were removed in December 2020.[6] Though New York restaurants were able to reopen briefly later in the year, a second shutdown caused the restaurant to announce on December 11 that it had ceased operations indefinitely and that employees would be terminated in March 2021, citing economic uncertainty.[18] 21 Club was one of many restaurants in New York City that were permanently closed during the pandemic.[19]

On March 9, 2021, the club's 148 mostly unionized employees were officially laid off with a notice filed with the New York Department of Labor.[6] When it closed, it had been active for 90 years, and it had hosted every US president since Franklin Delano Roosevelt excluding George W. Bush. It also had a hidden wine cellar where it stored the collections of individuals such as Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Nixon, and Sophia Loren.[2] LVMH subsidiary Belmond informed The New York Times that the restaurant was gone, but that a "distinctive" restaurant might be created instead, saying a month later no "final concept" had been settled on.[16] In November 2021, Eater reported that former employees had been publicly protesting LVMH's decision to close the club, and that the union had been neither offered severance packages or job assurances over around a year, with terms remaining unsettled.[16]

Ambiance and dress code

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The Bar Room included a restaurant, a lounge and, as the name implied, a bar. The walls and ceiling of the Bar Room were covered with antique toys and sports memorabilia donated by famous patrons.[20] Perhaps the best known feature of 21 was the line of painted cast iron lawn jockey statues which adorned the balcony above the entrance. In the 1930s, some of the affluent customers of the bar began to show their appreciation by presenting 21 with jockeys painted to represent the racing colors of the stables they owned. In 2006, there were 33 jockeys on the exterior of the building, and 2 more inside the doors.[20][21] New York Magazine wrote "It's a New York icon, but the midtown stalwart is nevertheless starting to feel like it's stuck in the past," noting the dress code and decor.[22]

The first of the signature statues of jockeys outside the restaurant had been added in the 1930s after a donation, with more donated by New York families such as the Vanderbilts and Mellons.[23]

Reception

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Between 2003 and 2015, the restaurant was a recipient of the Wine Spectator Grand Award.[24] In 2017, Zagat gave it a food rating of 4.3 out of 5.[1]

Ian Fleming described the club as "The best speak-easy in New York" in his 1956 James Bond book, Diamonds Are Forever.[25]

See also

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References

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Further reading

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Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia

21 Club

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from Grokipedia
The '21' Club was an upscale American and former Prohibition-era situated at 21 West 52nd in , . Founded by John "Jack" Kriendler and Charles "Charlie" Berns, it opened its doors on January 1, 1930, evolving from earlier ventures dating back to 1926 and quickly becoming one of the era's most renowned illicit drinking establishments. Over nearly nine decades, '21' served as a premier power-lunch destination for celebrities, politicians, and business leaders—including figures like , , and —distinguished by its secretive wine cellar housing thousands of bottles from notable patrons, whimsical Bar Room ceiling adorned with donated toys and models, and balcony lined with jockey statues. The venue installed a distinctive wrought-iron gate in 1930 as a Prohibition-era safeguard, which patrons would lower upon spotting federal agents, underscoring its heritage. Despite its cultural icon status, '21' permanently closed in December 2020 amid the , marking the end of a significant chapter in 's culinary and social history.

History

Prohibition-Era Origins

![The 21 Club facade at 21 West 52nd Street, featuring wrought-iron grilles installed in 1930 to conceal and protect illicit liquor supplies during Prohibition][float-right]
The origins of the 21 Club trace back to the early years of Prohibition, which began in 1920 with the ratification of the 18th Amendment. Cousins Jack Kriendler and Charlie Berns, both in their early twenties, entered the illicit alcohol trade by establishing their first speakeasy, the Red Head, in Greenwich Village's East Village in 1922. This venture was soon followed by the Frontón in Washington Square later that year, which gained popularity among patrons including New York City Mayor James J. Walker but was forced to relocate in 1926 due to impending subway construction. In 1926, Kriendler and Berns moved their operations uptown to the Puncheon (also known as Jack and Charlie's or No. 42) at 42 West 49th Street, continuing to serve smuggled in a setting amid the era's widespread evasion of federal alcohol bans. By late , as their business expanded, they hosted a gala on at the Puncheon before transitioning to a new location at 21 West 52nd Street, where the establishment that would become known as the 21 Club officially opened on , 1930. Named Jack and Charlie's "21" after its address, the venue operated as one of New York City's approximately 32,000 speakeasies, attracting celebrities, politicians, and business leaders with its discreet yet elegant ambiance. To thwart potential police raids, the 21 Club incorporated sophisticated evasion mechanisms, including the iconic wrought-iron grilles installed on the ground-floor windows in —relocated from the prior site—which could be raised via levers to dump down chutes into the sewer . A secret wine cellar at the adjacent No. 19 housed around 2,000 cases of contraband alcohol, accessed through camouflaged doors and revolving bars, while staff maintained by claiming no was served on the premises. These features exemplified the ingenuity required to sustain high-end underground operations until Prohibition's repeal on December 5, 1933, via the 21st Amendment, after which the club transitioned to legal status without interruption.

Post-Repeal Establishment and Growth

Following the repeal of the Eighteenth Amendment on December 5, 1933, the 21 Club, under founders Jack Kriendler and Charlie Berns, shifted from clandestine operations to a licensed while preserving its aura of discretion and elite patronage. The establishment at 21 West 52nd Street, already operational since 1930, leveraged its pre-existing network of affluent customers from finance, theater, and society circles to maintain continuity amid the . Berns promptly expanded the business model by founding '21' Brands in 1934, a importing, distilling, and distribution firm that supplied the restaurant and external markets, with David hired as its inaugural salesman. The club's growth in the late manifested through emerging traditions that reinforced its identity, including the initiation of its renowned jockey statue collection with the first donation from patron Jay Van Urk, and the annual tradition of hosting Band for sing-alongs starting in 1938. These elements, combined with the retention of Prohibition-era features like the 1926 wrought-iron gate and concealed wine cellars holding approximately 2,000 cases, distinguished it as a venue blending historical intrigue with upscale . World War II posed operational strains, as the Kriendler brothers enlisted—Jack as a Marine Corps reservist—but the restaurant endured, attracting high-profile visitors that bolstered its reputation. In 1944, actors Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall became engaged at the iconic Table 30, while the 1945 film Spellbound, directed by regular patron Alfred Hitchcock, featured interior scenes, amplifying its cultural cachet. By 1946, Walter Weiss joined as a waiter, rising to maitre d' and contributing to service excellence that supported expanding clientele from Wall Street executives to entertainers. The death of Jack Kriendler in 1947 from coronary thrombosis at age 48 marked a transition, yet the club's patronage swelled, with every U.S. president from Franklin D. Roosevelt onward dining there by 1960 (except George W. Bush), signaling its ascent as a nexus for power and influence.

Mid-20th Century Prominence

Following , the 21 Club transitioned from its roots into a symbol of postwar New York's affluent dining culture, attracting business leaders, politicians, and entertainers for its discreet ambiance and high-end American fare. The restaurant hosted Ed Sullivan's radio broadcasts during the war years, enhancing its visibility among national audiences. Physical expansions, including the removal of walls between 19 and 21 West 52nd Street, created a unified space with a third-floor men's club featuring a and , catering to elite patrons seeking privacy for deal-making. Hollywood luminaries frequented the venue, with maintaining a regular reservation at Table 30; in 1944, he and celebrated their first date there. also claimed a favorite table, drawn to its sophisticated yet unpretentious vibe amid the city's evolving nightlife. U.S. Presidents and dined at the club during their terms, underscoring its role as a neutral ground for influential figures across sectors. Culinary hallmarks like the signature "21" burger, priced at $2.75 in —over ten times the dime cost of typical coffee-shop versions—reflected the venue's premium positioning and drew media attention for its quality and exclusivity. The club's wine cellar expanded with contributions, including bottles from regulars, further cementing its status as a where financiers conducted power lunches alongside visiting stars. This era marked the peak of its mid-century allure, blending tradition with the era's economic boom to host transactions and celebrations that shaped New York's social fabric.

Late 20th and Early 21st Century Developments

In 1985, the Kriendler and Berns families, who held 85 percent of the shares, sold their controlling interest in the 21 Club to investors Marshall Cogan and Stephen Swid, principals of General Felt Industries, while retaining operational roles. This transition marked the end of direct family ownership after over six decades, amid efforts to preserve the club's traditions while addressing succession challenges. By 1995, the restaurant was acquired by Orient-Express Hotels, later rebranded as Belmond Ltd., under chairman James B. Sherwood, who emphasized maintaining its historical significance alongside operational updates. In the late 1990s, renovations sought to balance tradition with accessibility, including the removal of a ground-floor bar at 17 West 52nd Street to install banquettes and subtle interior refreshes that softened the space's formality without altering core features like the grill room or bar. Further updates by architectural firm Beyer Blinder Belle integrated contemporary elements, such as enhanced lighting, coffered ceilings in a new cocktail lounge, and expanded event spaces, while respecting the landmark's historic designation. Into the 2000s and 2010s, the club sustained its elite patronage but adapted its menu under new executive chefs, incorporating contemporary American innovations—such as seasonal twists on classics—to appeal to evolving diner preferences amid New York City's competitive fine-dining landscape. In 2019, Belmond and thus the 21 Club became part of Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton through a $2.6 billion acquisition, positioning it within a global luxury portfolio. The precipitated the club's closure; it shuttered in March 2020 alongside citywide restrictions, and by December 2020, owner Belmond announced it would not reopen in its traditional form due to unsustainable financial pressures from prolonged low occupancy, repeated indoor dining bans, and operational costs exceeding $1 million monthly. This led to the of 148 unionized employees effective March 9, 2021, ending 90 years of continuous operation as a public restaurant. expressed intentions to reimagine the site, potentially as a hybrid hospitality venue, though no timeline or specifics have materialized as of 2025, with the space remaining vacant amid broader debates on regulatory burdens contributing to the demise of historic New York institutions.

Physical Characteristics and Ambiance

Architectural and Decorative Features

The 21 Club occupies three interconnected late-19th-century townhouses at 21 West 52nd Street in Midtown Manhattan. Its exterior is iconic for the balcony above the entrance, lined with 35 cast-iron jockey statues donated by prominent thoroughbred racing families including the Vanderbilts, Mellons, and Ogden Mills Phipps starting in the early 1930s; each figure is painted in the silks of notable racing stables. The entrance incorporates a wrought-iron relocated from a prior location on January 1, , alongside Prohibition-era defenses engineered by architect Frank Buchanan after a . These include camouflaged doors, revolving bars, chutes, and lever systems that enabled the rapid dumping of into sewers to evade detection, a feature that protected the establishment throughout the Prohibition period. Inside, the Bar Room features a uniquely cluttered ceiling covered entirely with patron-donated sporting goods, industrial artifacts, and antique toys, creating a distinctive of memorabilia. Prominent displays include a of President John F. Kennedy's PT-109 , a from , a replica of gifted by President , tennis racquets from and , and a golf club from . The restaurant's art collection, assembled during the , encompasses works by , McClelland Barclay, Bradford Crandall, , and . The original Prohibition-era wine cellar, hidden behind secret panels at the adjacent No. 19 address, retains its concealment mechanisms and stored up to 2,000 cases of liquor during the ban; it later housed private collections from patrons such as Presidents and , , , and . Private dining rooms showcase individualized collections of artifacts, while the Gallery room boasts high ceilings and natural light illuminating rare items. A 2011 renovation by Beyer Blinder Belle preserved the historic character while modernizing spaces: the lower-level lounge gained leather bar stools, upholstered tub chairs, and an antiqued-gold patina mirror echoing exterior ironwork; first-floor dining areas received coffered ceilings with traditional moldings, flexible walls, enhanced decorative lighting, and audio-visual systems for versatility. These updates maintained the club's exclusive, layered ambiance amid its townhouse origins.

Dress Code and Operational Traditions

The 21 Club maintained a rigorous dress code emblematic of its commitment to formality and exclusivity, requiring gentlemen to wear jackets for both lunch and dinner, with ties obligatory at dinner until a policy change on January 24, 2009, eliminated the tie mandate while retaining the jacket requirement. Denim jeans and sneakers were expressly forbidden for all guests, extending to women who were expected to adhere to comparable standards of business or elegant attire. This code was consistently enforced by staff, underscoring the club's resistance to casual dining trends prevalent in New York City establishments. To accommodate lapses in compliance, the restaurant offered complimentary loaner jackets to male patrons arriving without one, a practical that preserved the without turning away clientele. The dress policy served as a cultural , with its gradual relaxation reflecting broader shifts toward informality in urban , yet the persistence of core elements like the jacket rule until the club's closure in December 2020 highlighted an operational fidelity to historical standards. Beyond attire, operational traditions emphasized discreet, service protocols, including the maintenance of house accounts that permitted select regulars—often corporate executives or prominent individuals—to receive monthly billing rather than immediate payment, a vestige of pre-credit-card era practices. Reservations were handled with priority for established patrons, and the bar program adhered to rules circumventing overt sales during Prohibition's legacy influence, though adapted post-repeal to emphasize cellar selections without tipping customs in certain contexts. These elements fostered an environment of ritualized exclusivity, where adherence to unwritten codes of conduct reinforced the club's status as a of networking amid evolving norms.

Culinary Offerings

Signature Dishes and Menu Evolution

The "21" Club's signature dishes emphasized traditional with French influences, centering on preparations that highlighted high-quality ingredients and classic techniques. Among the most enduring was the creamy chicken hash, a dish of poached chicken in a rich cream sauce topped with , served over or toast, which became a favorite of and remained a top seller for decades. The "21" burger, introduced in the 1950s as an early example of elevated casual fare, featured ground beef seasoned with celery salt and fennel seed in a bun, evolving slightly in spices and bun size over time while maintaining its status as a menu mainstay favored by patrons like . Other perennial best-sellers included , prepared tableside for freshness, and Dover sole, often filleted at the table, alongside items like , creamed spinach, and . Following the end of in 1933, the club's menu shifted from speakeasy-focused libations to a full roster of hearty American entrées and , establishing its reputation as a power-dining destination with dishes like chicken hash dating to this formative period. Through the mid-20th century, the offerings prioritized simplicity and showmanship, incorporating tableside preparations such as , duck l'orange, and flaming desserts like or , which appealed to celebrity clientele without chasing culinary fads. In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, the menu preserved these seven core classics amid periodic refinements to attract younger diners, such as the launch of Bar '21' with more casual extensions of staples like the burger. By 2014, executive chef Sylvain Delpique, drawing from Michelin-starred experience, introduced inventive additions like octopus carpaccio with and alongside nightly specials such as creamy sea scallops, while enhancing classics with superior sourcing—e.g., 28-day dry-aged ribeye and jumbo lump crab cakes—without altering their fundamental profiles or adopting molecular techniques. This balanced evolution sustained sales leaders like tartare, hash, and sole through 2020, reflecting a commitment to heritage amid economic pressures.

Beverage Program and Wine Cellar

The '21' Club's beverage program emphasized classic American cocktails and a robust selection of spirits, reflecting its speakeasy roots during Prohibition when owners Jack Kriendler and Charlie Berns concealed liquor behind camouflaged doors and revolving bars. Signature drinks included the Southside, a gin-based cocktail with Tanqueray gin, lemon juice, muddled mint leaves, sugar, and soda, originating as a house invention served at Bar '21'. Another staple was the '21' Perfect Manhattan, blending traditional whiskey elements with the restaurant's refined palate. In 1934, following Prohibition's repeal, Berns established '21' Brands, a liquor importing, distilling, and distributing company that supplied the venue and expanded its beverage offerings. Bar '21' featured an array of cocktails, artisanal beers on tap, and wines by the glass alongside bar fare, maintaining an elegant atmosphere for elite patrons. The wine cellar, a Prohibition-era holdover engineered by Frank Buchanan in the adjacent No. 19 building, allowed staff to deny on-site alcohol by technically storing it off-premises; it accommodated 2,000 cases, including private reserves from figures such as Presidents and , , , and . Accessed via a 2,500-pound brick door opened by a thin wire through concealed holes, the cellar ranked among America's premier repositories, housing rarities like an 1804 , a 1870 , and a $22,000 bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, as detailed in Pete Kriendler's . The program earned Wine Spectator's Grand Award for its historic depth and quality, curated by directors like Philip Pratt to balance classic and selections with broader global variety exceeding 100 labels in emerging regions. This cellar doubled as a private event space, underscoring the club's blend of secrecy and sophistication until its 2020 closure.

Social and Cultural Role

Patronage by Elites and Celebrities

The 21 Club attracted patronage from numerous presidents, with every chief executive from onward dining there except . frequented the establishment, including on the eve of his 1961 , and left a model of his PT-109 as memorabilia; he preferred table 31, later favored by . and stored private wine collections in the restaurant's cellar, with some bottles reportedly remaining as of 2020. celebrated his 2016 election victory at the 21 Club and dined there repeatedly, continuing a tradition among presidents who valued its discreet, clubby ambiance. The restaurant also drew Hollywood celebrities and entertainers, establishing itself as a mid-20th-century hub for figures like , who reserved a favored table, , , , , , and . Comedians and performers such as and , along with opera singer , contributed to its allure among cultural elites. These patrons often stored personal wine reserves in the 21 Club's Prohibition-era cellar, which by the late housed over 2,000 cases belonging to celebrities including Taylor, Loren, and . Business leaders and executives formed a core clientele, drawn to the venue's reputation for privacy and power networking, with tycoons like Onassis exemplifying the "captains of industry" who frequented it since . The 21 Club's appeal to such elites persisted into the , reinforced by memorabilia like Willie Mays's and Clinton's replica, symbolizing its role as a status marker for influential regulars. This patronage underscored the restaurant's function as a neutral ground for discreet deal-making amid New York's .

Influence on New York Dining Culture

The 21 Club epitomized the "power lunch" tradition in , particularly during the 1980s Wall Street expansion, when executives frequented the venue for substantive business discussions amid formal service. Forbes magazine highlighted this dynamic, stating that "more deals are done at '21' than on the floor," reflecting the club's function as a discreet arena for negotiations that blended culinary excellence with professional strategy. described the establishment as having "all but invented the modern rite of dining seasoned with power," positioning it alongside contemporaries like the Four Seasons as a cornerstone of corporate dining culture. This model elevated midday meals from mere sustenance to strategic events, influencing broader norms where reservations at spots signified influence and access. The club's rigid protocols, including assigned tables for regulars and an emphasis on hierarchical seating, reinforced dining as a performative display of status, shaping expectations for exclusivity in Manhattan's competitive landscape. Such practices, sustained through decades of patronage by financiers and media figures, helped normalize power lunches as a fixture of New York's economic rhythm, even as and casual trends later challenged them; the venue's resurgence in deal-making post-economic dips underscored its enduring template for blending formality with functionality. Culinary contributions further extended its imprint, with innovations like the 1980s-era $21 burger—featuring premium seasoned with and on a bun—pioneering the gourmet trend that permeated upscale American menus. Signature preparations, such as creamy Chicken Hash with aged Gruyère and tableside-flamed dishes including and , prioritized unadorned quality and French-derived techniques, fostering a to fleeting culinary fads and inspiring restaurants to anchor identity in reliable, ingredient-driven classics rather than novelty. This approach, rooted in Prohibition-era resilience, preserved a lineage of sophisticated yet approachable fare that defined midtown's appeal to discerning professionals.

Business and Ownership

Key Ownership Transitions

The '21' Club was originally established in 1930 by cousins Jack Kriendler and Charlie Berns, whose families retained ownership and operational control for over five decades, managing the restaurant through its evolution from a Prohibition-era to a landmark dining institution. The Kriendler and Berns partnership traced back to earlier ventures, including the 1922 opening of the Red Head speakeasy, but the core business at 21 West 52nd Street solidified under their direct oversight until the mid-1980s. In January 1985, the Kriendler and Berns families sold their interests to General Felt Industries, a led by financier Marshall Cogan and his partner Stephen Swid, marking the end of familial ownership and the introduction of corporate stewardship. This transition aimed to inject modern management while preserving traditions, with Cogan appointing experienced operators like Pete Kriendler (a family holdover) and later figures such as Howard Aretsky as general manager to navigate financial pressures, including taxes and competition from newer establishments. Cogan's tenure lasted a decade, during which the club underwent renovations and maintained its elite clientele, but culminated in a sale on September 15, 1995, to Orient-Express Hotels Ltd., headed by James B. Sherwood, for an undisclosed sum. Sherwood, known for restoring historic luxury properties, committed to minimal changes, emphasizing the site's over aggressive commercialization. Orient-Express Hotels rebranded as Belmond Ltd. in 2014, retaining control until December 2018, when French luxury conglomerate agreed to acquire Belmond for $2.6 billion (completed in April 2019), thereby assuming indirect ownership of the '21' Club as part of Belmond's portfolio of high-end hospitality assets. This shift positioned the restaurant within 's broader empire of brands like and , though operational autonomy persisted amid ongoing challenges like the .

Economic Model and Financial Realities

The 21 Club operated on a traditional upscale model augmented by extensive private event capabilities, generating primarily through a la carte dining, premium beverage sales, and catered banquets for corporate and elite clientele. Approximately 60% of its revenues stemmed from private dining rooms hosting events such as business meetings, weddings, and anniversaries. In 2012, annual revenues totaled $18 million, with the figure increasing modestly to around $19 million by 2017. The establishment achieved among the industry's highest guest check averages, at $190 per party. High operational costs characterized its financial realities, including maintenance of a historic structure spanning multiple addresses on West 52nd Street and a exceeding 100 unionized employees. A 2012 reconfiguration of private dining spaces, costing $1.5 million, addressed prior inefficiencies that resulted in up to $2 million in annual lost opportunities from suboptimal room layouts. Under ownership by Belmond Ltd., a luxury hospitality conglomerate, the club functioned as a branded prestige venue within a broader portfolio, potentially buffering short-term profitability pressures but tying viability to sustained high-end . Disruptions underscored vulnerabilities: a 2018 water damage incident projected to forfeit at least $3 million in dining and income during peak season, necessitating temporary layoffs. This event-driven model, while resilient through prior recessions via loyal and celebrity patronage, exposed reliance on discretionary spending amid evolving competition from contemporary dining options.

Closure and Aftermath

Pandemic Shutdown and Contributing Factors

The 21 Club ceased operations on March 16, 2020, in compliance with New York Governor Andrew Cuomo's mandating the closure of all dine-in services at bars and restaurants statewide to curb the spread of COVID-19. This initial shutdown aligned with broader measures that halted indoor gatherings and non-essential businesses amid surging case numbers and capacity strains in . By December 2020, after nearly ten months of inactivity, the restaurant's owners announced it would not reopen "in its current form for the foreseeable future," citing the ongoing crisis and its severe repercussions for the sector. Contributing factors included repeated waves of restrictive policies, such as the December 11, 2020, statewide ban on indoor dining announced by Cuomo in response to rising infections and hospitalizations, which further eroded prospects for viability. The establishment's , reliant on high-volume , private events, and corporate patronage in , faced insurmountable revenue losses from capacity limits, mandates, and diminished and office traffic. Lease negotiations with the property owner also collapsed, exacerbating the closure; management was unable to secure favorable terms amid the economic downturn, as the site's high operational costs—stemming from its status and prime location—proved unsustainable without full occupancy. These elements compounded preexisting vulnerabilities in an industry segment already strained by pre-pandemic trends like shifting consumer preferences toward casual dining, though the pandemic's abrupt halt to operations accelerated . The decision led to the termination of all 148 employees, effective , 2021, underscoring the depth of the operational collapse. The "21" Club's workforce was represented by Unite Here Local 100, which handled negotiations and disputes related to labor conditions, including during the restaurant's operational challenges leading to its 2020 closure. In December 2020, union president Bill Granfield received formal notice from management that the restaurant would permanently close, resulting in the termination of all 148 unionized employees effective March 9, 2021, as filed with New York State authorities. Employees rallied outside the venue in protest, highlighting concerns over job losses amid the COVID-19 pandemic's impact on hospitality. Post-closure union dynamics revealed internal divisions, with former staff debating whether to accept severance payouts or withhold acceptance in hopes of reinstatement if the space reopened under new ownership by . By early 2021, approximately 150 laid-off workers faced prolonged uncertainty, as management explored reimagining the property without committing to rehiring the existing unionized complement. These tensions underscored broader labor strains in New York City's fine-dining sector, where union contracts emphasized but clashed with owners' financial restructuring needs. The restaurant faced multiple legal challenges under New York Labor Law (NYLL), particularly regarding gratuity distribution. In Alderman v. 21 Club Inc. (2010), plaintiffs alleged violations of NYLL § 196-d through mandatory service fees on services that were not fully remitted to service staff, with the court addressing claims of improper retention by management. Similar suits, including a 2010 reported by Eater NY, accused the club of retaining portions of an 18% service charge on private events, distributing only a fraction to tipped employees despite customer perceptions of full pass-through. Additional disputes involved employment practices, such as Bordet v. 21 Club Inc. (2006), where former employees claimed age and in terminations. A 2006 wrongful termination case advanced against the club and owner Orient-Express Hotels, with courts allowing claims that fabricated allegations of on-duty drinking were used to justify firings, potentially breaching anti-retaliation protections. These cases, often initiated by service staff, reflected recurring scrutiny of tip pooling and dismissal procedures in high-end hospitality, though outcomes varied and did not result in systemic operational changes prior to closure.

Reception and Legacy

Critical Assessments and Achievements

The 21 Club received the Grand Award for its wine list annually from until its closure, one of only eight such recipients in at the time. This recognition highlighted its extensive cellar, which housed over 2,000 selections and emphasized rare vintages suited to classic American fare. Critics consistently praised the restaurant's ambiance and historical significance as a Prohibition-era turned power-lunch destination, with outlets like designating it among America's best classic restaurants for its enduring appeal to elites and preservation of mid-20th-century dining traditions. in 1997 lauded its meats, including what was described as the city's finest and impeccable , attributing quality to rigorous sourcing. A 2012 Times review noted exemplary service on spirited evenings, where staff facilitated seamless, alcohol-fueled progression through meals, though it implied variability tied to patronage energy. The establishment's achievements extended to cultural patronage, hosting every U.S. president from onward, alongside celebrities and industry leaders, cementing its role as a nexus of influence rather than culinary innovation. Publications like Civilian Global acclaimed it as New York's premier power-lunch venue, valuing its barroom buzz and banquette diplomacy over cuisine. However, some assessments critiqued the food as competent but unremarkable—strong on staples like cakes and steaks, yet secondary to decor and lore—with service occasionally deemed gruff or inattentive in non-peak settings. This duality underscored its legacy: a verifiable of and exclusivity, operational for 90 years until 2020, prized more for sociological cachet than consistent gastronomic excellence.

Criticisms, Controversies, and Enduring Debates

The 21 Club faced multiple lawsuits from employees alleging violations of labor laws concerning tip distribution and overtime pay. In March 2009, more than 30 current and former waitstaff filed a class-action claiming the charged customers a 21.75 percent on private dining and services but distributed only 18 percent to service staff, retaining the remainder in violation of New York Labor Law § 196-d. The further accused the club of willfully denying federally mandated overtime rates under the Fair Labor Standards Act, paying waiters time-and-a-half only after 50 hours per week rather than the standard 40. A similar action in August 2010 reiterated claims of tip misappropriation during events, where a portion of the 18 percent service charge was allegedly kept by management rather than fully passed to employees. These cases highlighted tensions in the club's service charge practices, common in high-end hospitality but contested for potentially undermining tipped workers' earnings. Critics have frequently targeted the 21 Club's culinary offerings as inconsistent with its pricing and storied reputation. A 2012 review in The New York Times by praised the venue's atmospheric allure but deemed the food "largely forgettable," arguing that entrees and dishes did not justify costs often exceeding $50 per plate amid a broader decline in white-tablecloth dining standards. The establishment's strict —requiring jackets and ties for men, prohibiting and —has also drawn complaints for fostering a "stuffy" environment that prioritizes formality over accessibility, alienating younger or casual diners in an era of relaxed norms. Enduring debates surrounding the 21 Club center on its emblematic status as a bastion of elite New York hospitality versus its adaptability to socioeconomic shifts. Proponents view its exclusivity, evidenced by and power-broker patronage, as a deliberate preservation of tradition that elevated American dining culture through rigorous standards and historical continuity from its origins. Detractors, however, argue that such insulation from broader market dynamics contributed to its pre-closure stagnation, with high barriers like prohibitive pricing (e.g., lunches averaging $100+ per person) reinforcing class divides rather than evolving with diverse clientele preferences. The club's indefinite 2020 shutdown amid the intensified discussions on whether icons like the 21 represent resilient legacy or anachronistic relics, with owner LVMH's pledges for a "reimagining" post-layoffs of 148 unionized staff underscoring unresolved tensions between heritage preservation and modern operational viability.

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