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Trilby
Trilby
from Wikipedia
Leonard Cohen wearing a trilby

A trilby is a narrow-brimmed type of hat. The trilby was once viewed as the rich man's favored hat; it is sometimes called the "brown trilby" in Britain[1] and was frequently seen at the horse races.

The traditional London hat company Lock and Co. describes the trilby as having a "shorter brim which is angled down at the front and slightly turned up at the back" compared to the fedora's "wider brim which is more level". The trilby also has a slightly shorter crown than a typical fedora design.[2]

History

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The hat's name derives from the stage adaptation of George du Maurier's 1894 novel Trilby. A hat of this style was worn in the first London production of the play, and promptly came to be called "a Trilby hat".[3][better source needed] Its shape somewhat resembles the Tyrolean hat.[citation needed]

Phil Campbell with trademark trilby

Traditionally it was made from rabbit hair felt, but now is usually made from other materials, such as tweed, straw, heavyweight cotton, wool and wool/nylon blends.[citation needed]

The hat reached its zenith of popularity in the late 1950s and early 1960s; the lower head clearance in post-war American automobiles made it impractical to wear a hat with a tall crown while driving, while also blending in better with the sleeker Italian-inspired tailoring of the time. It remained a common item until about 1970 when men's headwear went out of fashion and men's fashion focused on highly maintained hairstyles instead.[citation needed]

The hat saw a resurgence in popularity at several times in the 1980s, being marketed to both men and women in an attempt to capitalise on a retro fashion trend.[4]

As the use of hats became more of a limited pursuit in the 1990s and 2000s, the trilby became a favored garment of the hipster subculture, briefly resurfacing as a fashionable item in the late 2000s and early 2010s.[citation needed]

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Frank Sinatra was identified with trilby hats, and there is a signature design trilby bearing his name. The reggae poet Linton Kwesi Johnson often wears a trilby during his performances. Peter Sellers as Inspector Clouseau wore a Herbert Johnson trilby in Blake Edwards's A Shot in the Dark (1964), the second of his Pink Panther series; the felt trilby gave way to a tweed one in later films. The cartoon character Inspector Gadget wears a trilby hat.[5]

In the Series 1 episode "The Think Tank" of the program Are You Being Served?, the Grace Brothers store policy is revealed to include a hierarchical order for hats male personnel wear: bowlers for departmental heads and above, homburgs for senior floor staff and trilbys or caps for junior floor staff.

See also

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References

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Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia
Trilby is a written by and first serialized in Harper's New Monthly Magazine from to 1894, before appearing in book form in 1895. Set in the bohemian Latin Quarter of 1850s , it follows the titular character, Trilby O'Ferrall, an Irish artist's model and laundress known for her striking beauty and unconventional charm, who is drawn into a hypnotic relationship with the manipulative musician . Under Svengali's mesmeric influence, Trilby transforms from a tone-deaf singer into the renowned sensation "La Svengali," exploring themes of artistic inspiration, psychological control, and romantic rivalry among a group of young English artists. The novel's immense popularity—selling over 200,000 copies in the United States alone by early 1895—sparked "Trilbymania," a cultural phenomenon that influenced fashion, theater, and merchandise across Anglo-American society. Du Maurier, a British cartoonist and for Punch magazine, drew from his own experiences in during the to craft the story, blending elements of romance, gothic horror, and social satire. Key characters include the idealistic painter "Little Billee" (William Bagot), who falls deeply in love with Trilby, and his artist friends Taffy and the Laird, who form a protective "brotherhood" amid the vibrant, hedonistic artist community. , the novel's enigmatic antagonist, embodies the trope of the exploitative mentor, using not only to unlock Trilby's latent vocal talent but also to dominate her will, raising enduring questions about and . The book's success extended far beyond literature, inspiring numerous stage adaptations, including a hit 1895 Broadway play that ran for over 200 performances and toured extensively. It also popularized the "trilby" hat—a soft felt fedora with a narrow brim and pinched crown—named after the character and featured prominently in theatrical productions, cementing its place in menswear fashion from the late 19th century onward. Merchandise frenzy included Trilby dolls, cigarettes, sausages, and even foot-shaped ice cream, reflecting the era's emerging consumer culture and the novel's role as one of the first modern pop-culture blockbusters. Later influences appear in works like Gaston Leroux's The Phantom of the Opera, which echoes the Svengali-Trilby dynamic, underscoring the novel's lasting impact on depictions of artistic mentorship and obsession.

Publication History

Trilby was first serialized in Harper's New Monthly Magazine from January to August 1894. The edition in book form was published on 8 September 1894 by Osgood, McIlvaine & Co. in three volumes. The edition followed in January 1895 by Harper & Brothers, with illustrations by the author, and quickly became a , selling 200,000 copies in the within months. By the end of 1894, over 300,000 copies had been sold worldwide.

Plot Overview

In 1850s , three young English artists—Taffy, the Laird, and Little Billee—live in the Latin Quarter. They meet Trilby O'Ferrall, an Irish artist's model with a beautiful but tone-deaf voice and famously perfect feet. Little Billee falls in love with her, but their romance is complicated by Trilby's bohemian past and her friendship with the sinister musician and his companion . , a hypnotic genius, discovers Trilby's vocal potential and mesmerizes her, suppressing her will and transforming her into the star "La Svengali." They achieve fame in , but when dies suddenly during a performance in , Trilby loses her voice and independence. She returns to , reunites briefly with Little Billee, and dies peacefully. The novel ends with reflections on , love, and loss.

Characters

  • Trilby O'Ferrall: The protagonist, a free-spirited Irishwoman working as an artist's model and laundress in Paris. She is beautiful, naive, and talented but tone-deaf until hypnotized.
  • Svengali: A Polish-Jewish musician and hypnotist, the novel's antagonist. Charismatic yet villainous, he exploits Trilby for his own fame.
  • Little Billee (William Bagot): A young English painter and Trilby's love interest. Idealistic and sensitive, he is based partly on du Maurier's own youth.
  • Taffy (Major Thomas Bagot): Little Billee's robust, protective friend, an ex-soldier and painter.
  • The Laird (Sandy McAllister): A Scottish artist friend, known for his temper and loyalty to the group.
  • Gecko: Svengali's brutish assistant, who helps in the hypnosis and control of Trilby.

Themes and Symbolism

Trilby explores themes of artistic and inspiration, questioning whether true comes from within or external influence. symbolizes psychological control and the loss of , with representing the dangers of manipulative mentorship. The novel also touches on through Svengali's stereotypical portrayal as a cunning foreigner. Romantic rivalry and bohemian life in highlight contrasts between innocence and corruption, while Trilby's feet symbolize her vulnerability and . The work blends romance with gothic elements, satirizing .

Reception and Criticism

Upon release, Trilby was an instant sensation, becoming the best-selling novel of the with over a million copies sold by 1900. Critics praised its vivid portrayal of artistic life but criticized its , , and antisemitic tropes. Contemporary reviews in noted its "irresistible charm" despite flaws. Modern scholars view it as a precursor to , influencing discussions on and gender roles, though Svengali's character has drawn accusations of prejudice.

Adaptations and Cultural Impact

The novel inspired over 100 adaptations, including Paul M. Potter's 1895 stage play, which premiered in Boston and ran for 208 performances on Broadway at the Garden Theatre, starring Wilton Lackaye as Svengali and Virginia Brereton as Trilby; it toured widely and was revived multiple times. Silent films appeared in 1915 (with Clara Kimball Young) and 1922 (with Andree Flanders). A 1931 sound film starred Maria Ouspenskaya, and Svengali has been portrayed in later works like 1955's Svengali with Donald Wolfit. The character influenced The Phantom of the Opera (1910), with its obsessive mentor dynamic. Culturally, "Trilbymania" led to the trilby hat's popularity, merchandise like dolls and soaps, and parodies in vaudeville. The term "Svengali" entered English for a manipulative influencer. As of 2025, the novel remains studied for its role in early mass culture.
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