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Hairstyle
Hairstyle
from Wikipedia

Chinese woman with an elaborate hair style, 1869
Traditional hairstyle of a Japanese bride

A hairstyle, hairdo, haircut, or coiffure refers to the styling of hair, usually on the human head but sometimes on the face or body. The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect of personal grooming, fashion, and cosmetics, although practical, cultural, and popular considerations also influence some hairstyles.

The oldest known depiction of hair styling is hair braiding, which dates back about 30,000 years. Women's hair was often elaborately and carefully dressed in special ways, though it was also frequently kept covered outside the home, especially for married women.

Prehistory and history

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People's hairstyles are largely determined by the fashions of the culture they live in. Hairstyles are markers and signifiers of social class, age, marital status, racial identification, political beliefs, and attitudes about gender.

Some people may cover their hair totally or partially for cultural or religious reasons. Notable examples of head covering include women in Islam who wear the hijab,[1][2] married women in Haredi Judaism who wear the sheitel[3] or tichel, married Himba men who cover their hair except when in mourning, Tuareg men who wear a veil, and men and women in Sikhism who wear the dastar, whether baptized or not, as a symbol of their faith and cultural identity.[4]

Paleolithic

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The oldest known reproduction of hair braiding lies back about 30,000 years: the Venus of Willendorf, now known in academia as the Woman of Willendorf, of a female figurine from the Paleolithic, estimated to have been made between about 28,000 and 25,000 BC.[5] The Venus of Brassempouy counts about 25,000 years old and indisputably shows hairstyling.

Bronze Age

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In the Bronze Age, razors were known and in use by some men, but not on a daily basis since the procedure was rather unpleasant and required resharpening of the tool which reduced its endurance.[6]

Ancient history

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In ancient civilizations, women's hair was often elaborately and carefully dressed in special ways. Women coloured their hair, curled it, and pinned it up (ponytail) in a variety of ways. For waves and curls, they used wet clay, which they dried in the sun before combing out, or they used a jelly made from quince seeds soaked in water. Additionally, various kinds of curling tongs and curling irons were popular tools for hair styling.[7][8]

Hairstyles in ancient Korea and Japan were influenced by Chinese hairstyles.[9] For instance, the chu'kye style worn in Koguryo was similar in style and head placement as the chu'kye style in China. The hairstyles were characterized by the large topknots on women's heads. Also, hairstyles were used as an expression of beauty, social status, and marital status.[9] For instance, Japanese girls wore a mae-gami to symbolize the start of their coming-of-age ceremony. Single women in Baekjae put their hair in a long pigtail and married women would braid their hair on both sides of the head. The hairstyles displayed their marital status to those around them.[citation needed]

Roman Empire and Middle Ages

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Between 27 BC and 102 AD, in Imperial Rome, women wore their hair in complicated styles: a mass of curls on top, or in rows of waves, drawn back into ringlets or braids. Eventually noble women's hairstyles grew so complex that they required daily attention from several enslaved people and a stylist in order to be maintained. The hair was often lightened using wood ash, unslaked lime and sodium bicarbonate, or darkened with copper filings, oak-apples or leeches marinated in wine and vinegar.[10] It was augmented by wigs, hairpieces and pads, and held in place by nets, pins, combs and pomade. Under the Byzantine Empire, noblewomen covered most of their hair with silk caps and pearl nets.[11]

From the time of the Roman Empire[citation needed] until the Middle Ages, most women grew their hair as long as it would naturally grow. It was normally styled through cutting, as women's hair was tied up on the head and covered on most occasions when outside the home by using a snood, kerchief or veil; for an adult woman to wear uncovered and loose hair in the street was often restricted to prostitutes. Braiding and tying the hair was common. In the 16th century, women began to wear their hair in extremely ornate styles, often decorated with pearls, precious stones, ribbons, and veils. Women used a technique called "lacing" or "taping," in which cords or ribbons were used to bind the hair around their heads.[12] During this period, most of the hair was braided and hidden under wimples, veils or couvrechefs. In the later half of the 15th century and on into the 16th century, a very high hairline on the forehead was considered attractive, and wealthy women frequently plucked out hair at their temples and the napes of their necks, or used depilatory cream to remove it, if it would otherwise be visible at the edges of their hair coverings.[13] Working-class women in this period wore their hair in simple styles.[12]

Early modern history

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Male styles

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During the 15th and 16th centuries, European men wore their hair cropped no longer than shoulder-length, with very fashionable men wearing bangs or fringes. In Italy, it was common for men to dye their hair.[14] In the early 17th century male hairstyles grew longer, with waves or curls being considered desirable in upper-class European men.

The male wig was supposedly pioneered by King Louis XIII of France (1601–1643) in 1624 when he had prematurely begun to bald.[15] This fashion was largely promoted by his son and successor Louis XIV of France (1638–1715) that contributed to its spread in European and European-influenced countries. The beard had been in a long decline and now disappeared among the upper classes.

Perukes or periwigs for men were introduced into the English-speaking world with other French styles when Charles II was restored to the throne in 1660, following a lengthy exile in France. These wigs were shoulder-length or longer, imitating the long hair that had become fashionable among men since the 1620s. Their use soon became popular in the English court. The London diarist Samuel Pepys recorded the day in 1665 that a barber had shaved his head and that he tried on his new periwig for the first time, but in a year of plague he was uneasy about wearing it:

3rd September 1665: Up, and put on my coloured silk suit, very fine, and my new periwig, bought a good while since, but darst not wear it because the plague was in Westminster when I bought it. And it is a wonder what will be the fashion after the plague is done as to periwigs, for nobody will dare to buy any hair for fear of the infection? That it had been cut off the heads of people dead of the plague.

Late 17th-century wigs were very long and wavy (see George I below), but became shorter in the mid-18th century, by which time they were normally white (George II). A very common style had a single stiff curl running round the head at the end of the hair. By the late 18th century the natural hair was often powdered to achieve the impression of a short wig, tied into a small tail or "queue" behind (George III).

Short hair for fashionable men was a product of the Neoclassical movement. Classically inspired male hair styles included the Bedford Crop, arguably the precursor of most plain modern male styles, which was invented by the radical politician Francis Russell, 5th Duke of Bedford as a protest against a tax on hair powder; he encouraged his friends to adopt it by betting them they would not. Another influential style (or group of styles) was named by the French "coiffure à la Titus" after Titus Junius Brutus (not in fact the Roman Emperor Titus as often assumed), with hair short and layered but somewhat piled up on the crown, often with restrained quiffs or locks hanging down; variants are familiar from the hair of both Napoleon and George IV. The style was supposed to have been introduced by the actor François-Joseph Talma, who upstaged his wigged co-actors when appearing in productions of works such as Voltaire's Brutus (about Lucius Junius Brutus, who orders the execution of his son Titus). In 1799, a Parisian fashion magazine reported that even bald men were adopting Titus wigs,[16] and the style was also worn by women, the Journal de Paris reporting in 1802 that "more than half of elegant women were wearing their hair or wig à la Titus".[17]

In the early 19th century the male beard, and also moustaches and sideburns, made a strong reappearance, associated with the Romantic movement, and all remained very common until the 1890s, after which younger men ceased to wear them, with World War I, when the majority of men in many countries saw military service, finally despatching the full beard except for older men retaining the styles of their youth, and those affecting a Bohemian look. The short military-style moustache remained popular.

Female styles

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Low "messy" bun in an everyday domestic context in 17th-century Holland. Girl Singing by Frans Hals, about 1628
Marie Antoinette with pouf hairstyle
Hopi woman dressing hair, ca. 1900

From the 16th to the 19th century, European women's hair became more visible while their hair coverings grew smaller, with both becoming more elaborate, and with hairstyles beginning to include ornamentation such as flowers, ostrich plumes, ropes of pearls, jewels, ribbons and small crafted objects such as replicas of ships and windmills.[12][18] Bound hair was felt to be symbolic of propriety: loosening one's hair was considered immodest and sexual, and sometimes was felt to have supernatural connotations.[19] Red hair was popular, particularly in England during the reign of the red-haired Elizabeth I, and women and aristocratic men used borax, saltpeter, saffron and sulfur powder to dye their hair red, making themselves nauseated and giving themselves headaches and nosebleeds.[10][20] During this period in Spain and Latin cultures, women wore lace mantillas, often worn over a high comb,[12][21] and in Buenos Aires, there developed a fashion for extremely large tortoise-shell hair combs called peinetón, which could measure up to three feet in height and width, and which are said by historians to have reflected the growing influence of France, rather than Spain, upon Argentinians.[22]

In the middle of the 18th century the pouf style developed, with women creating volume in the hair at the front of the head, usually with a pad underneath to lift it higher, and ornamented the back with seashells, pearls or gemstones. In 1750, women began dressing their hair with perfumed pomade and powdering it white. Just before World War I, some women began wearing silk turbans over their hair.[12]

Japan

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In the early 1870s, in a shift that historians attribute to the influence of the West,[23] Japanese men began cutting their hair into styles known as jangiri or zangiri (which roughly means "random cropping").[24] During this period, Japanese women were still wearing traditional hairstyles held up with combs, pins, and sticks crafted from tortoise, metal, wood and other materials,[12] but in the middle 1880s, upper-class Japanese women began pushing back their hair in the Western style (known as sokuhatsu), or adopting Westernized versions of traditional Japanese hairstyles (these were called yakaimaki, or literally, "soirée chignon").[24]

Inter-war years

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Movie star Rudolph Valentino

During the First World War, women around the world started to shift to shorter hairstyles that were easier to manage. After WWI women started for to bob, shingle and crop their hair, often covering it with small head-hugging cloche hats. In Korea, the bob was called tanbal.[25] In Europe and the US the bob was seen as a step towards women's liberation.[26] Women began marcelling their hair, creating deep waves in it using heated scissor irons. Durable permanent waving became popular also in this period:[27] it was an expensive, uncomfortable and time-consuming process, in which the hair was put in curlers and inserted into a steam or dry heat machine. During the 1930s women began to wear their hair slightly longer, in pageboys, bobs or waves and curls.[11]

During the 1920s and 1930s, Japanese women began wearing their hair in a style called mimi-kakushi (literally, "ear hiding"), in which hair was pulled back to cover the ears and tied into a bun at the nape of the neck. Waved or curled hair became increasingly popular for Japanese women throughout this period, and permanent waves, though controversial, were extremely popular. Bobbed hair also became more popular for Japanese women, mainly among actresses and moga, or "cut-hair girls," young Japanese women who followed Westernized fashions and lifestyles in the 1920s.[24]

During this period, Western men began to wear their hair in ways popularized by movie stars such as Douglas Fairbanks Jr. and Rudolph Valentino. Men wore their hair short, and either parted on the side or in the middle, or combed straight back, and used pomade, creams and tonics to keep their hair in place. At the beginning of the Second World War and for some time afterwards, men's haircuts grew shorter, mimicking the military crewcut.[28]

Post-war years

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After the war, women started to wear their hair in softer, more natural styles. In the early 1950s women's hair was generally curled and worn in a variety of styles and lengths. In the later 1950s, high bouffant and beehive styles, sometimes nicknamed B-52s for their similarity to the bulbous noses of the B-52 Stratofortress bomber, became popular.[29] During this period many women washed and set their hair only once a week, and kept it in place by wearing curlers every night and reteasing and respraying it every morning.[30] In the 1960s, many women began to wear their hair in short modern cuts such as the pixie cut, while in the 1970s, hair tended to be longer and looser. In both the 1960s and 1970s many men and women wore their hair very long and straight.[31] Long, natural hair was also worn due to the emergence of counterculture movements such as that of the hippies who used such styles to symbolize their opposition to the norm. From the 1950s onward, various groups have pushed the norms for hairstyles as symbols of their unique ideology or identity. The Skinheads, who opposed the hippies, shaved off much of their hair. The punks of the later 1970s, meanwhile, wanted to cause outrage, styling their hair in unique ways (such as the mohawk) and dyeing it in unnatural shades.[32] Women straightened their hair through chemical straightening processes, by ironing their hair at home with a clothes iron, or by rolling it up with large empty soda cans while wet.[33]

Bantu Knots
Woman wearing a loose Afro

Since the 1960s and 1970s, women have worn their hair in a wide variety of styles. Part of this came from the "Black is Beautiful" movement which promoted the natural beauty of the Black population as opposed to what some considered a Eurocentric model. Some critics argue that straightening or relaxing African hair is trying to conform to a white standard of beauty. However, there are those that disagree with this belief. Nevertheless, Malcolm X advised against Black people straightening their hair for such reasons.[34] Black hair then became not only an act of beauty but an act of revolution.[34] The Afro, specifically, was both fashionable and political in the 1960s onward.[35] However, the Afro, or "the natural", as it was first called, was not originally a political choice, but a style favored by both artistic and intellectual Black communities in the 1940s and 1950s.[35]

Contemporary hairstyles

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Man with styled hair, 2011

The challenges to social norms for hair in the 1960s onward alongside the more accessible hair dyes allowed for a variation in hairstyles to emerge.[32] In the contemporary world, women and men can choose from a broad range of hairstyles. But they are still expected to wear their hair in ways that conform to gender norms: in much of the world, men with long hair and women whose hair does not appear carefully groomed may face various forms of discrimination, including harassment, social shaming or workplace discrimination.[36] This is somewhat less true of African-American men, who wear their hair in a variety of styles that overlap with those of African-American women, including box braids and cornrows fastened with rubber bands and dreadlocks.[37]

In the 1980s, women pulled back their hair with scrunchies, stretchy ponytail holders made from cloth over fabric bands. Women also often wear glittery ornaments today, as well as claw-style barrettes used to secure ponytails and other upswept or partially upswept hairstyles.[12]

The 1980s in America also were a time of noted turmoil between hair choices. Tensions arose particularly between hair choices from women of color, and the workplace as noted by court cases such as Rogers v. American Airlines which upheld employers rights to ban certain hairstyles in the workplace, notably braided hairstyles. Additional instances of USPS, hotel chains, police departments and another industries banning hairstyles common within the Black American community such as braids, colored hair, and dreadlocks from the workplace during this period.[34]

Defining factors

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A hairstyle's aesthetic considerations may be determined by many factors, such as the subject's physical attributes and desired self-image and/or the stylist's artistic instincts.

Physical factors include natural hair type and growth patterns, face and head shape from various angles, and overall body proportions; medical considerations may also apply. Self-image may be directed toward conforming to mainstream values (military-style crew cuts or current "fad" hairstyles such as the Dido flip), identifying with distinctively groomed subgroups (e.g., punk hair), or obeying religious dictates (e.g., Orthodox Jewish have payot, Rastafari have Dreadlocks, Sadhus jatas in India and Nepal, or the Sikh practice of Kesh), though this is highly contextual such that "mainstream" look in one setting may be limited to a "subgroup" in another.

A hairstyle is achieved by arranging hair in a certain way, occasionally using combs, a blow-dryer, gel, or other products. The practice of styling hair is often called hairdressing, especially when done as an occupation.

Hairstyling may also include adding accessories (such as headbands or barrettes) to the hair to hold it in place, enhance its ornamental appearance, or partially or fully conceal it with coverings such as a kippah, hijab, tam or turban.

Hairstyling techniques

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In the United States, cosmetology students purchase practice heads with human hair to learn cutting, coloring and styling.

Hair dressing may include cuts, weaves, coloring, extensions, perms, permanent relaxers, curling, and any other form of styling or texturing.

Some of these techniques are described in detail below;

Washing

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Stylists often wash a subject's hair first, so that the hair is cut while still slightly damp. Compared to dry hair, wet hair can be easier to manage in a cut/style situation because the added weight and surface tension of the water cause the strands to stretch downward and cling together along the hair's length, holding a line and making it easier for the stylist to create a form. It is important to note that this method of cutting hair while wet, may be most suitable (or common) for straight hair types. Curly, kinky and other types of hair textures with considerable volume may benefit from cutting while dry, as the hair is in a more natural state and the hair can be cut evenly.

Cutting

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Hair cutting or hair trimming is intended to create or maintain a specific shape and form. There are ways to trim one's own hair but usually another person is enlisted to perform the process, as it is difficult to maintain symmetry while cutting hair at the back of one's head.

Cutting hair is often done with hair clipper, scissors, and razors. Combs and hair grips are often employed to isolate a section of hair which is then trimmed.

Blending

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Blending is a technique used to create a seamless transition between different lengths or textures of hair. This process ensures that there are no harsh lines or visible distinctions where one section of hair ends, and another begins. Stylists typically use thinning shears, razors, or specific scissor techniques to soften the edges of a haircut. Blending is especially important in layered cuts or when merging short and long sections, as it gives the hairstyle a cohesive and natural look.

Brushing and combing

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Brushes and combs are used to organize and untangle the hair, encouraging all of the strands to lie in the same direction and removing debris such as lint, dandruff, or hairs that have already shed from their follicles but continue to cling to the other hairs.


There are all manner of detangling tools available in a wide variety of price ranges. Combs come in all shapes and sizes and all manner of materials, including plastics, wood, and horn. Similarly, brushes also come in all sizes and shapes, including various paddle shapes. Most benefit from using some form of a wide tooth comb for detangling. Most physicians advise against sharing hair care instruments like combs and clips, to prevent spreading hair conditions like dandruff and head lice.

The historical dictum to brush hair with 100 strokes every day is somewhat archaic, dating from a time when hair was washed less frequently; the brushstrokes would spread the scalp's natural oils down through the hair, creating a protective effect. Now, however, this does not apply when the natural oils have been washed off by frequent shampoos. Also, hairbrushes are now usually made with rigid plastic bristles instead of the natural boar's bristles that were once standard; the plastic bristles increase the likelihood of actually injuring the scalp and hair with excessively vigorous brushing. However, traditional brushes with boar's bristles are still commonly used among African Americans and those with coarse or kinky textures to soften and lay down curls and waves.[citation needed]

Drying

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Hair dryers speed the drying process of hair by blowing air, which is usually heated, over the wet hair shaft to accelerate the rate of water evaporation.

Excessive heat may increase the rate of shaft-splitting or other damage to the hair. Hair dryer diffusers can be used to widen the stream of air flow so it is weaker but covers a larger area of the hair.

Hair dryers can also be used as a tool to sculpt the hair to a very slight degree. Proper technique involves aiming the dryer such that the air does not blow onto the face or scalp, which can cause burns.

Other common hair drying techniques include towel drying and air drying.

Braiding and updos

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Tight or frequent braiding may pull at the hair roots and cause traction alopecia. Rubber bands with metal clasps or tight clips, which bend the hair shaft at extreme angles, can have the same effect.

An updo

An updo is a hair style that involves arranging the hair so that it is carried high on the head. It can be as simple as a ponytail, but is more commonly associated with more elaborate styles intended for special occasions such as a prom or weddings.

If hair is pinned too tightly, or the whole updo slips causing pulling on the hair in the follicle at the hair root, it can cause aggravation to the hair follicle and result in headaches. Although some people of African heritage may use braiding extensions (long term braiding hairstyle) as a form of convenience and/or as a reflection of personal style, it is important not to keep the braids up longer than needed to avoid hair breakage or hair loss. Proper braiding technique and maintenance can result in no hair damage even with repeated braid styles.

Curling and straightening

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Curling and straightening hair typically involve using a curling rod or a flat iron to achieve the desired look. These tools use heat to shape the hair into various waves and curls, or to temporarily straighten it by reversing natural curls. However, frequent use of heat styling tools can damage hair, especially when combined with chemicals used to maintain the style. Some irons are designed to style damp hair, but they require higher temperatures, ranging from 300 to 450 °F (149 to 232 °C). To minimize heat damage, it's advisable to use heat protection sprays and hair-repairing shampoos and conditioners.

Industry

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Hair styling is a major world industry, from the salon itself to products, advertising, and even magazines on the subject. In the United States, most hairstylists are licensed after obtaining training at a cosmetology or beauty school.[38]

In recent years, competitive events for professional stylists have grown in popularity. Stylists compete on deadline to create the most elaborate hairstyle using props, lights and other accessories.

Tools

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Hair being straightened with a hair iron

Styling tools may include hair irons (including flat, curling, and crimping irons), hair dryers, hair brushes and hair rollers. Hair dressing might also include the use of hair product to add texture, shine, curl, volume or hold to a particular style. Hairpins are also used when creating particular hairstyles. Their uses and designs vary over different cultural backgrounds.

Products

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Styling products aside from shampoo and conditioner are many and varied. Leave-in conditioner, conditioning treatments, mousse, gels, lotions, waxes, creams, clays, serums, oils, and sprays are used to change the texture or shape of the hair, or to hold it in place in a certain style. Applied properly, most styling products will not damage the hair apart from drying it out; most styling products contain alcohols, which can dissolve oils. Many hair products contain chemicals which can cause build-up, resulting in dull hair or a change in perceived texture.

Wigs

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In the late 18th century and early 19th century, powdered wigs were popular

Care of human or other natural hair wigs is similar to care of a normal head of hair in that the wig can be brushed, styled, and kept clean using haircare products. Wigs can serve as a form of protective styling that allows freedom of control of the hairstyling.

Synthetic wigs are usually made from a fine fiber that mimics human hair. This fiber can be made in almost any color and hairstyle, and is often glossier than human hair. However, this fiber is sensitive to heat and cannot be styled with flat irons or curling irons. There is a newer synthetic fiber that can take heat up to a certain temperature.

Human hair wigs can be styled with heat, and they must be brushed only when dry. Synthetic and human hair wigs should be brushed dry before shampooing to remove tangles. To clean the wig, the wig should be dipped into a container with water and mild shampoo, then dipped in clear water and moved up and down to remove excess water. The wig must then be air dried naturally into its own hairstyle. Proper maintenance can make a human hair wig last for many years.

Functional and decorative ornaments

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There are many options to embellish and arrange the hair. Hairpins, clasps, barrettes, headbands, ribbons, rubber bands, scrunchies, and combs can be used to achieve a variety of styles. There are also many decorative ornaments that, while they may have clasps to affix them to the hair, are used solely for appearance and do not aid in keeping the hair in place. In India for example, the Gajra (flower garland) is common there are heaps on hair.

Social and cultural implications

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Gender

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At most times in most cultures, men have worn their hair in styles that are different from women's. American sociologist Rose Weitz wrote that the most widespread cultural rule about hair is that women's hair must differ from men's hair.[39] In western societies – particularly the US, UK, and Canada – hair on the head is more strongly tied to feminine gender expression. Long hair is seen as not only feminine but also more sexually appealing for women. Women are also more likely to style their hair in a variety of ways, including using accessories. Meanwhile, men's styles tend to be uniform amongst one another. Masculine gender expressions tend to gear towards facial hair rather than head hair, likely due to how many men experience baldness.[32] An exception is the men and women living in the Orinoco-Amazon Basin, where traditionally both genders have worn their hair cut into a bowl shape. In Western countries in the 1960s, both young men and young women wore their hair long and natural, and since then it has become more common for men to grow their hair.[40]

During most periods in human history when men and women wore similar hairstyles, as in the 1920s and 1960s, it has generated significant social concern and approbation.[41] In the west, groups such as hippies and punks caused outrage for their overlaps in masculine and feminine presentation. Around the 1950s onward, feminists in the US opposed traditionally feminine beauty standards of long hair and little or no body hair. They argued that those standards take much effort to maintain and were symbols of oppression, though the specifics of what sort of hairstyles or other beauty norms are "oppressive" was highly debated. Typically, many have aimed towards styles which take less maintenance. Meanwhile, there are also non-political examples of challenging gender presentation with performers presenting as cross-dressing or with androgynous appearances.[32]

Religion

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Hair in religion also plays an important role since women and men, when deciding to dedicate their life to faith, often change their haircut. Baldness is likely chosen as a common spiritual symbol of dedication because it is perceived as a sign of aging and thus, undesirable. Cutting or shaving one's hair is a rejection of worldly pride and vanity.[42] There may be another layer of giving up sexuality as well, as hair is seen as a sex symbol, so the inverse of little or no hair could be a symbol of celibacy – a common oath for holy people.[32] Catholic nuns often cut their hair very short, and men who joined Catholic monastic orders in the eighth century adopted what was known as the tonsure, which involved shaving the tops of their heads and leaving a ring of hair around the bald crown.[40] Many Buddhists, Hajj pilgrims and Vaisnavas, especially members of the Hare Krishna movement who are brahmacharis or sannyasis, shave their heads. Some Hindu and most Buddhist monks and nuns shave their heads upon entering their order, and Korean Buddhist monks and nuns have their heads shaved every 15 days.[43]

Conversely, there are also practices of keeping the hair long and/or uncut. One such example are adherents of Sikhism are required to wear their hair unshorn. Women usually wear it in a braid or a bun and men cover it with a turban also known as a dastār. Other religions also have various kinds of head coverings. The three Abrahamic religions, for instance all have some sort of religious writing on head coverings, particularly for women. In Islam women wear the hijab for modesty and covers the hair as well as chest.[44] In Judaism (mostly orthodox), married women wear coverings such as the tichel, and in some branches men wear the kippah mostly in prayers.[45] Meanwhile, due to the varied branches of Christianity, not all Christian women wear coverings and there are various kinds of head covering.[46]

Marital status

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In the 1800s, American women started wearing their hair up when they became ready to get married. Among the Fulani people of west Africa, unmarried women wear their hair ornamented with small amber beads and coins, while married women wear large amber ornaments. Marriage is signified among the Toposa women of South Sudan by wearing the hair in many small pigtails. Unmarried Hopi women have traditionally worn a "butterfly" hairstyle characterized by a twist or whorl of hair at each side of the face.[47] Hindu widows in India used to shave their heads as part of their mourning although that practice has mostly disappeared.

Life transitions

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In many cultures, including Hindu culture and among the Wayana people of the Guiana highlands, young people have historically shaved off their hair to denote coming-of-age. Women in India historically have signified adulthood by switching from wearing two braids to one. Among the Rendille of north-eastern Kenya and the Tchikrin people of the Brazilian rainforest, both men and women shave their heads after the death of a close family member. When a man died in ancient Greece, his wife cut off her hair and buried it with him,[40] and in Hindu families, the chief mourner is expected to shave his or her head 3 days after the death.[48]

Social class

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Upper-class people have always used their hairstyles to signal wealth and status. Wealthy Roman women wore complex hairstyles that needed the labours of several people to maintain them,[49] and rich people have also often chosen hairstyles that restricted or burdened their movement, making it obvious that they did not need to work.[50] Wealthy people's hairstyles used to be at the cutting edge of fashion, setting the styles for the less wealthy. But today, the wealthy are generally observed to wear their hair in conservative styles that date back decades prior.[51]

Middle-class hairstyles tend to be understated and professional. Middle-class people aspire to have their hair look healthy and natural, implying that they have the resources to live a healthy lifestyle and take good care of themselves.[citation needed]

European-influenced working-class people's haircuts have tended to be somewhat simple. Working-class men have often shaved their heads or worn their hair close-cropped. While working-class women typically with long hair often have their hair cinched back away from their faces and secured on their scalp.[citation needed]

Health

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Hair, when it is natural and meets certain criteria, is one of the indicators of a person's good or poor health. This is one of the explanations for the significant role that hairstyles play in both sexual and emotional attraction.[52][53]

In the past, certain products used for hair graying (such as lead oxide or lead combs) have been a source of lead poisoning. Hair is sensitive to air pollution, particularly to various metallic pollutants in the environment (such as lead, mercury, or arsenic[54]). These metals can also be absorbed through food and beverages, as hair bioconcentrates and stores them from the bloodstream to the skin.[55] Additionally, certain medications can lead to hair loss, and this may be worsened by specific hairstyles.[56][57]

According to a study[58] published in 2016 by the American Academy of Dermatology and notably reported by The Root[59] and Science magazine,[60] certain tightly braided hairstyles that exert significant and constant tension on the scalp can contribute to a specific form of alopecia known as traction alopecia (TA). This article categorized hairstyling practices into high, moderate, and low-risk categories of induced alopecia, enabling dermatologists and physicians to provide more precise advice to affected patients.[58][61]

This is the case with common hairstyles among African-American women, including extensions, braids, and dreadlocks. This may explain why approximately one-third of black women suffer from hair loss. Hair damage can be further exacerbated by the use of chemical products used for chemical straightening. The study's findings support recommendations to wear looser hairstyles and avoid keeping braids and extensions for more than a few months.[62]

Certain products (hair dyes, hairsprays, bleaches, etc.) may contain allergenic ingredients. Several studies suggest that certain hairstyles or the use of bleaching or dyeing products may increase the risk of certain cancers (melanomas, as well as carcinomas[63]); thus, long and dark hair that shades the skin and protects it from excessive ultraviolet exposure could be a protective factor against certain skin cancers (such as ear cancers).[63][64]

Haircuts in space

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NASA astronaut Catherine (Cady) Coleman trims the hair of Paolo Nespoli in the Kibō laboratory on the International Space Station during Expedition 26. A hair clipper attached to a vacuum cleaner removes free-floating hair clippings.[65]

Haircuts also occur in the International Space Station. During the various expeditions astronauts use hair clippers attached to vacuum devices for grooming their colleagues so that the cut hair will not drift inside the weightless environment of the space station and become a nuisance to the astronauts or a hazard to the sensitive equipment installations inside the station.[66][67][68]

Haircutting in space was also used for charitable purposes in the case of astronaut Sunita Williams who obtained such a haircut by fellow astronaut Joan Higginbotham inside the International Space Station. Sunita's ponytail was brought back to earth with the STS-116 crew and was donated to Locks of Love.[69][70]

See also

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References

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Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia
A hairstyle refers to the particular manner in which , typically on the human head but sometimes on the face or body, is cut, arranged, and adorned. Hairstyles have served practical functions since prehistoric times, including by reducing solar heat gain on the scalp and providing mechanical protection, as scalp hair's morphology demonstrably mitigates environmental stressors in open habitats. Archaeological evidence from figurines, such as the dated to approximately 25,000 years ago, indicates deliberate hair styling or netting, representing some of the earliest known depictions of coiffed . Beyond utility, hairstyles convey social signals of phenotypic quality, fertility, and group affiliation, with empirical studies showing preferences for certain lengths and styles correlating with perceived attractiveness and status across cultures. Throughout history, variations in hairstyles have reflected societal norms, from elaborate ancient Sumerian and Egyptian headdresses denoting elite status to modern adaptations influenced by technology and globalization, though core anthropological roles in identity and adaptation persist.

Biological and Evolutionary Foundations

Human Hair Structure and Physiology

Human hair emerges from follicles embedded in the and of the , with each follicle consisting of an epithelial component derived from the and a mesenchymal component including the dermal papilla. The follicle's bulb region contains matrix that proliferate during the growth phase, differentiating into the hair shaft and inner root sheath. Scalp skin typically hosts 100,000 to 150,000 such follicles, varying by , age, and , with terminal scalp hairs averaging 70-100 micrometers in diameter. The hair shaft, the visible portion extruded from the follicle, comprises three concentric layers: the , cortex, and medulla. The forms an outer sheath of overlapping, scale-like cells made of keratinized squamous cells, providing a protective barrier against mechanical and chemical damage while influencing surface and shine. The cortex, constituting 80-90% of the shaft's mass, consists of bundled intermediate filaments embedded in a matrix of high-sulfur keratin proteins, conferring tensile strength, elasticity, and pigmentation via granules produced by follicular melanocytes. The medulla, present in thicker hairs, is a central, discontinuous region of soft keratin and air-filled spaces that may affect hair opacity but contributes minimally to structural integrity. Hair growth follows a cyclic pattern divided into anagen (active growth), catagen (regression), telogen (rest), and exogen (shedding) phases, asynchronously across follicles to maintain coverage. Anagen lasts 2-7 years on the , during which matrix cells divide at rates yielding 0.3-0.4 mm of daily growth, with 85-90% of follicles active at any time. Catagen, a 2-3 week involution phase, involves apoptosis-driven follicle shrinkage and detachment from the dermal papilla, reducing length by up to 15%. Telogen persists for about 3 months, with dormant follicles before a new anagen initiates; daily shedding of 50-100 telogen hairs is normal, influenced by factors like , androgens, and nutritional status such as iron and levels. Physiologically, hair production relies on vascular supply to the dermal papilla for delivery and waste removal, with sebaceous glands producing sebum for and protection. Hormonal regulation, including dihydrotestosterone's role in during androgenetic alopecia, underscores cyclic control via signaling pathways like Wnt/beta-catenin for anagen induction. Genetic variations, such as in EDAR for East Asian hair straightness or thickness, further modulate shaft morphology and cycle duration.

Evolutionary Origins and Functions of Scalp Hair

Human scalp hair represents a distinctive retention amid the evolutionary reduction of body hair in Homo sapiens, which likely occurred between 1.9 and 0.9 million years ago as an adaptation for enhanced thermoregulation through sweating in hot, open environments. Unlike the miniaturized vellus hair covering most of the body, scalp follicles produce thick, terminal hairs capable of indefinite growth, a trait unique among primates and most mammals. This pattern suggests selection pressures specific to the head, where the brain's high metabolic demands necessitate protection from environmental stressors. The primary adaptive function of scalp hair appears to be , particularly shielding the head from solar radiation in equatorial and arid habitats ancestral to early s. Computational models demonstrate that scalp hair significantly reduces heat influx to the skin, with tightly curled hair providing up to 45% greater protection against and loads compared to straight hair, facilitating evaporative cooling via sweat without overheating the . This aligns with the loss of body , which improved convective cooling but left the elevated cranium vulnerable during bipedal locomotion in sun-exposed savannas. Experimental data from human subjects and thermal simulations confirm that haired scalps maintain lower surface temperatures under direct sunlight, supporting the that long scalp hair evolved as a passive trap for convective while blocking radiative heat. The lengthening of scalp hair beyond juvenile forms likely proceeded in stages: first, neotenic retention of dense, protective infant hair into adulthood for sustained buffering; second, further elongation to mid-back lengths, possibly under pressures favoring visible displays of health and fertility in females. While initial thermoregulatory benefits predominated in African origins around 200,000 years ago, subsequent cultural and social roles—such as signaling maturity or status—may have amplified selection for variability in length and texture across populations. Additional functions include minor contributions to sensory detection via mechanoreceptors and excretion of trace toxins, though these are secondary to thermal stabilization. Genetic studies indicate polygenic control with incomplete understanding, but variants linked to curliness correlate with ancestral environments favoring dissipation.

Historical Development

Prehistory and Early Civilizations

Archaeological evidence from Europe indicates early human engagement in hairstyling, as seen in Venus figurines depicting structured hair arrangements. The , dated to approximately 24,000–22,000 BCE, features a head covered in what appear to be braided or coiled patterns formed by shallow incisions, suggesting deliberate grooming beyond mere functionality. Similarly, the , from around 25,000 BCE, portrays a face with finely carved falling in waves or strands, evidencing advanced carving techniques to represent textured hairstyles. These artifacts imply that scalp hair manipulation served social or symbolic purposes, potentially for mate attraction, group identification, or parasite control, though direct evidence of tools like combs remains scarce until later periods. In Mesopotamian civilizations, such as around 3000–2500 BCE, hairstyles reflected gender and status distinctions, with women often wearing long hair braided and wrapped around the head, secured with pins, as reconstructed from royal burials like that of . Men typically maintained shaved heads or short crops, while elite examples include curled beards and waved hair in later Akkadian styles, achieved using heated irons. Artifacts like the golden of from , circa 2500 BCE, imitate layered, wavy hairstyles, underscoring hair's role in conveying power and identity in early urban societies. Ancient Egyptian practices from onward (c. 2686–2181 BCE) emphasized shaved scalps for men to combat lice in the hot climate, often covered by wigs of human or synthetic hair styled in straight, wavy, or ed forms. Women favored shoulder-length straight hair or tripartite wigs parted in the middle, with children sporting the ""—a single denoting youth—until . Evidence from reliefs and preserved wigs, such as those using beeswax-fixed plaits, highlights hair's significance, including amuletic locks for protection. In the Indus Valley Civilization (c. 2600–1900 BCE), male figurines depict hair tied in topknots or buns, possibly indicating priestly or elite status, while female representations show simpler draped styles. These regional variations demonstrate hair's adaptation to environmental, practical, and cultural needs, with grooming tools like early combs emerging across sites, facilitating more complex arrangements in settled agrarian communities.

Ancient and Classical Periods

In ancient , hairstyles signified status and gender, with elite individuals from the Sumerian period (circa 3000–2000 BC) featuring elaborate constructions. Archaeological evidence from , such as the reconstructed headdress of dated to around 2500 BC, reveals layered wigs or hair arranged in waves and curls, often adorned with gold beads and semi-precious stones. Men typically maintained long, curled hair and braided beards, while women favored entwined braids or shorter cuts among commoners, reflecting practical adaptations to climate and labor. Ancient Egyptian practices emphasized wigs for both protection from the sun and aesthetic enhancement, dating back to circa 3400 BC with early hair extensions found at Hierakonpolis. Men, including pharaohs, routinely shaved their heads for hygiene in the hot climate, donning black wigs of straight or wavy human hair, while women retained longer natural hair parted in the middle and styled in braids or shoulder-length cuts before applying similar wigs. By the New Kingdom (circa 1550–1070 BC), elite women incorporated ornamental headdresses over braided styles, as depicted in tomb art, with hair color enhanced using henna for reddish hues symbolizing vitality. These conventions underscored social hierarchy, as wigs crafted from imported hair denoted wealth. In (5th–4th centuries BC), hairstyles prioritized simplicity and naturalism, aligning with philosophical ideals of moderation. Women often parted hair centrally, allowing waves to fall loosely or gathering it into low buns known as the "Knidian style," secured with ribbons or nets like the sakkos, especially during public appearances. Men cropped hair short, sometimes curling the edges, abandoning archaic long locks post-Persian Wars to symbolize . Roman women's hairstyles evolved from Republican austerity to Imperial extravagance, beginning with simple center-parted buns in the , transitioning to towering structures of curls and braids by the 1st–2nd centuries AD under empresses like . These complex updos, fixed with iron hairpins and pomade, required professional ornatrices and reflected imperial influence, as seen in portrait busts of circa 130 AD featuring center partings and bands. Men favored short, layered cuts or close shaves, varying by status—soldiers maintained military trims, while elites adopted Greek-inspired curls. In ancient during the Mauryan and subsequent periods (circa –3rd century AD), women styled hair in elaborate plaits or buns adorned with pins, as evidenced by terracotta figures from the showing coiled coiffures with floral motifs. Chinese (206 BC–220 AD) women favored high buns or hanging styles, often pinned with or , denoting marital status and Confucian propriety. These regional variations highlight how hairstyles served ritual, climatic, and hierarchical functions across classical civilizations.

Medieval and Early Modern Eras

In medieval Western Europe, hairstyles emphasized religious humility and gender norms. Clergymen practiced tonsure, shaving a circular patch on the scalp from the 7th century, symbolizing submission and self-denial as a marker of clerical identity distinct from laymen. Laymen shifted from long hair and mustaches in the early period—evident in Merovingian and Carolingian art—to shorter crops by the high Middle Ages, aligning with church decrees against excessive vanity and to differentiate from conquered peoples. Women's hair, viewed as a symbol of sexuality, was mandated to be covered by veils or wimples, especially for married women, per interpretations of Pauline epistles requiring head coverings during prayer to signify authority and modesty; uncovered hair equated to shame. Beneath these, styles were simple: long, loose, or braided, with elite women occasionally using bourrelets—padded rolls—for horned headdresses in the 14th-15th centuries. In the , women's hairstyles contrasted with Western austerity, featuring complex updos of braids, buns, and ringlets piled high, often volumized by wigs and secured with pins or diadems, as depicted in mosaics and manuscripts from the 6th-12th centuries. These elaborate coiffures, sometimes adorned with pearls and gold, signified status and beauty ideals influenced by classical heritage. Men's hair was typically short or shoulder-length, with beards common among emperors and officials. The early modern era (c. 1450-1800) saw hairstyles evolve toward extravagance amid and absolutist courts. In 16th-century and Northern Europe, women braided hair into nets or cauls, piling it high with pearls and veils, while men favored curled shoulder-length locks or emerging beards as markers of . By the mid-17th century in , King popularized periwigs to conceal receding hairlines, a trend accelerating due to syphilis-induced baldness; these full-bottomed wigs, powdered with by the 1660s, became mandatory for and , costing up to 800 livres and signaling and amid lice epidemics. Women's styles escalated to fontanges—towering wire-framed constructions with ribbons and —reaching 30 inches high by 1680, before transitioning to voluminous natural hair powdered in the . In , (1368-1644) women wore high topknots with floral ornaments, denoting marital status and Confucian propriety.

Industrial Age to 20th Century

In the Victorian era, spanning 1837 to 1901, women's hairstyles emphasized modesty and intricate updos, with hair often parted in the center and arranged into low chignons or buns secured by nets and combs, reflecting industrial-era values of restraint amid rapid urbanization and factory work. By the 1880s, the previously fashionable long, loose curls were largely replaced by tightly tucked and coiled styles at the nape, facilitated by mass-produced hairpins and brushes emerging from industrial manufacturing. Men's hair, meanwhile, transitioned from Regency-era longer locks to shorter, side-parted cuts often slicked with bear-fat pomade, paired with prominent sideburns, mustaches, or full beards that peaked around 1850-1870 as symbols of masculinity in an era of imperial expansion and labor shifts. The , from roughly 1760 to 1840 and extending influences thereafter, democratized hairstyling through innovations like vulcanized rubber combs patented in 1850 and steel hairbrushes by the 1870s, enabling quicker daily grooming for the growing while salons proliferated in urban centers for the elite. This period saw simpler, natural-looking styles supplanting elaborate powdered wigs, driven by Romantic ideals and practical needs in mechanized societies where posed hazards in factories. Hair extensions and switches from human hair became commercially viable, with U.S. imports of human hair rising to over 10,000 pounds annually by the late to augment voluminous updos. ![Rudolph Valentino][float-right] Early 20th-century women's styles evolved into the Edwardian pompadour around 1900-1910, featuring puffed fronts and coiled backs inspired by illustrations, often built up with rats (hair pads) for height symbolizing refined femininity before . Post-1918, the bob—a chin-length blunt cut—gained traction among women, cutting away corseted-era to embody suffrage-era liberation, with adoption accelerating after Irene Castle's 1915 debut and Chanel's endorsement, though conservative critics decried it as unfeminine. The 1930s introduced finger waves, achieved by pinching wet hair with combs and gels like those from , yielding sculpted S-curves on bobbed bases amid economic depression's call for polished efficiency. Men's looks favored slicked-back pompadours or undercuts, as seen in 's oiled waves that defined masculinity in the . World War II (1939-1945) imposed utilitarian shifts: women adopted —forward-pinched curls at the temples paired with shoulder-length waves—to keep hair secure under factory bandanas or service uniforms, conserving metal pins amid rationing that limited styles to 6-8 inches of growth. Soldiers sported high-and-tight crew cuts or buzz cuts, enforced by military regs for in trenches, influencing postwar civilian norms like the 1950s Ivy League trim at 1-2 inches on top. Postwar prosperity revived volume, with 1960s beehives using aerosol hairsprays invented in 1949 for teased heights up to 12 inches, reflecting consumer affluence and youth counterculture's shags by decade's end. By the late , punk-inspired mohawks and challenged norms, but professional settings retained short, neat cuts for men and layered feathered styles for women, enabled by electric dryers patented in 1920. In the , hairstyle trends have emphasized versatility and low-maintenance styles, with short to medium cuts like textured bobs, shags, and pixie variations gaining prominence among women, as reported by salon professionals in major cities. For men, medium-length textured styles offering a balance of manageability and expressiveness have surged, reflecting a shift from rigid fades to more fluid, adaptable looks. These preferences align with broader demands for hair that withstands daily wear without intensive styling, driven by empirical observations from stylists noting increased requests for "lived-in" finishes post-2020. Color trends have favored natural enhancements, such as tones and "expensive " brunettes, which provide dimension without drastic changes, appealing to those seeking subtle evolution amid economic uncertainties. Embracing inherent textures—curls, waves, and coils—has become central, with techniques like air-drying and texturizing sprays promoting healthier scalps over heat-dependent smoothing. This mirrors data from the hair movement, which, originating in the but peaking in the , led to a documented decline in chemical use among Black women by over 50% in the U.S. by 2020, as relaxer sales dropped sharply while protective styles like braids and locs rose. Social media platforms, particularly and , have accelerated trend cycles, with influencers like amassing millions of views through viral transformation videos that democratize access to professional techniques. Celebrities contribute via high-visibility changes, such as pixie cuts popularized by figures like in prior decades but revived through modern adaptations, influencing consumer choices through media exposure rather than inherent superiority. These influences operate causally via , with studies on showing rapid adoption rates tied to visibility, though trends often fade within 6-12 months due to saturation. The disrupted routines, leading to widespread hair growth during lockdowns—U.S. salon visits fell 70% in 2020—followed by "revenge cuts" favoring bold shags, , and buzz cuts as expressions of pent-up change. Post-2021, simpler, voluminous styles emerged, with men shifting to slicked-back looks for ease amid , while women increasingly opted for effortless air-dried textures to minimize damage from infrequent professional care. This causal link between restricted access and subsequent experimentation underscores hairstyles' role as adaptive responses to environmental constraints, with lasting effects in sustained preferences for resilient, self-managed aesthetics.

Hairstyling Techniques

Basic Hair Preparation

Basic hair preparation establishes a clean, manageable foundation for subsequent styling by removing impurities while preserving the hair's structural integrity and moisture balance. This process typically begins with shampooing to cleanse the of sebum, dirt, and product residue, as excess buildup can hinder styling hold and promote breakage during manipulation. Wet the hair thoroughly under lukewarm water to open the slightly for effective cleansing, then apply directly to the scalp and with fingertips in circular motions to generate lather that rinses through the lengths; avoid vigorous scrubbing of the strands to prevent friction-induced damage. Rinse completely with cool water to close the cuticle and reduce potential. Conditioning follows immediately to replenish and proteins stripped by , enhancing detangability and elasticity essential for even distribution during styling. Distribute conditioner from mid-lengths to ends, steering clear of the to avoid weighing down or exacerbating oiliness, and allow 1-3 minutes of contact time for absorption before rinsing with cool water. For enhanced efficacy, incorporate a leave-in conditioner post-rinse on damp hair to form a protective barrier against mechanical stress. Detangling mitigates knot-induced breakage, which can comprise up to 20% of daily in unmanaged tresses, by systematically separating strands under controlled tension. Perform this on wet, conditioned using a wide-tooth starting from ends and progressing upward, as wet fibers exhibit reduced tensile strength but benefit from slip provided by conditioners to minimize shear forces. Dry detangling suits straighter textures for precision but risks higher snap rates in coiled due to lower elasticity. Drying prepares hair for thermal or manual shaping by removing excess water without compromising the cortex's hygroscopic properties. Gently pat with a towel or absorbent cloth to absorb moisture, eschewing rubbing that disrupts cuticles and fosters tangles; this method preserves up to 50% more moisture compared to friction. Air drying is the preferred method whenever possible to minimize heat damage, though prolonged exposure (over 4 hours) may swell the complex, increasing and mechanical vulnerability during the extended wet phase. If blow-drying for volume or speed, apply a heat protectant spray beforehand, use low to medium heat settings, hold the dryer about six inches away, and keep it moving continuously to distribute heat evenly and limit thermal damage; a diffuser attachment aids in maintaining volume and curl patterns. Avoid securing damp hair in tight ponytails or buns, as the reduced tensile strength of wet strands combined with contraction during drying can promote breakage, especially around the hairline, or create creases. Sectioning divides the prepared into quadrants or smaller panels using clips, facilitating uniform application of tension and products in styling phases; this systematic approach, rooted in protocols, ensures and reduces errors in complex constructions like updos. For styles requiring grip, such as twists or braids, preparation on second-day —1-2 days post-wash—leverages natural sebum for enhanced traction without greasiness.

Cutting and Shaping Methods

Hair cutting and shaping involve systematically reducing length, creating texture, and forming contours to achieve desired hairstyles, typically performed on wet or dry hair depending on the technique and hair type. Texturizing refers to creating irregular texture by removing hair volume internally or surface-wise using techniques such as point cutting, slide cutting, channel cutting, and razor cutting; its purposes include softening hard lines, removing excess weight, and enhancing natural movement and softness for casual, modern looks, with effects yielding a lighter feel, soft uneven ends, internal or surface texture, and refined layers. Sectioning the hair into manageable portions—such as quadrants or subsections using clips or combs—ensures precision and symmetry, allowing stylists to work systematically from reference points like the or apex. , the angle at which hair is held from the , and over-direction, pulling hair away from its natural fall, are foundational principles that dictate layer placement and movement. Scissor techniques dominate precision cutting for both long and short styles. Blunt cutting shears straight across held sections at zero to produce uniform length and weight, ideal for sleek or bases for layering. Point cutting uses the tips of shears to snip vertically into ends, adding texture and movement by removing bulk without shortening overall length, particularly effective on thick to prevent a heavy appearance. Slide cutting involves partially opening shears and gliding them along the hair shaft at an , creating soft, graduated transitions suitable for blending layers or modern shags. Channel cutting creates intentional channels or negative spaces within sections of hair to reduce bulk and density while preserving overall length and structure. Clipper methods, prevalent in barbering, employ adjustable guards to taper lengths gradually from short at the to longer on top, as in fades or crew cuts. Clipper-over- blends elevations seamlessly for short-to-medium styles, holding a comb flat against the head while trimming protruding hairs, which maintains natural head shape and reduces bulk. Shaping follows cutting, involving outlining around ears, neckline, and with trimmers or shears for clean edges, often on dry hair to assess final form. Razor cutting slices at a to thin and soften ends, promoting feathering and of for ethereal textures, though it risks split ends on coarse or damaged strands. Layering combines these tools by cutting shorter interior sections beneath longer exteriors, using 90-degree elevation for volume or 45 degrees for face-framing, customizable to hair density and client facial structure. Texturizing shears, with notched blades, remove internal weight selectively, complementing cuts to enhance natural movement without altering . These methods adapt to hair's anisotropic properties—cuticles aligning directionally—affecting how cuts behave post-styling, with professional execution minimizing damage from mechanical .

Styling and Finishing Processes

Styling processes for hair typically follow preparation and cutting, involving , mechanical, or chemical methods to manipulate texture, , and while minimizing through protective products and controlled temperatures. styling, the most common approach, uses heated tools like blow dryers, curling irons, and flat irons to alter hair's bonds temporarily. For instance, blow drying requires sectioning damp hair, applying a heat protectant, and directing with brushes—round brushes for curl and , paddle brushes for straightening—while maintaining tension to smooth cuticles. Optimal blow dryer settings range from 120°F to 180°F to evaporate water without excessive protein denaturation, with professionals recommending cool shots to set styles and seal cuticles. Curling techniques employ irons or wands heated to 250–400°F, adjusted by hair thickness: fine or damaged hair at 250–300°F to avoid breakage, thicker hair up to 375°F for effective bond reformation. Sections are wrapped around the barrel for 5–10 seconds, varying hold time by diameter—smaller barrels for tight curls, larger for waves—followed by finger separation for natural movement. Straightening with flat irons follows similar principles, passing 1-inch sections slowly (one pass per area) at 300–350°F for medium hair, using ceramic or tourmaline plates to distribute even heat and reduce frizz via negative ion technology. Mechanical methods, such as wet setting with rollers or flexi-rods on damp hair treated with setting lotion, rely on air drying or low-heat diffusion to form curls without direct flame exposure, suitable for heat-sensitive types. Finishing processes secure and refine the style using products that provide hold, shine, or texture without residue buildup. Hairsprays, formulated with polymers like , form a flexible upon , offering light to maximum hold for 8–24 hours depending on resistance; application involves misting from 10–12 inches away in layers to avoid . Shine serums or oils, containing silicones like dimethicone, are applied sparingly to ends for gloss and control, while texturizing sprays with or add grip for lived-in looks. Professionals emphasize product compatibility with hair —oils for dry hair, water-based for oily—to prevent weighing down or greasiness, often finishing with a quick brush-out or for root lift. protectants, reapplied during multi-tool sessions, coat strands with silicones or proteins to reflect up to 450°F, reducing moisture loss by 50–70% in controlled studies.

Tools, Products, and Industry Practices

Essential Tools and Equipment

Essential tools and equipment form the foundation of hairstyling, enabling precise cutting, sectioning, drying, and finishing processes in salon environments. These implements, often standardized in cosmetology training, prioritize durability, ergonomics, and material quality—such as for blades and heat-resistant synthetics for brushes—to withstand repeated use while minimizing damage. Cutting and trimming tools include professional shears, which feature sharp, convex blades for clean cuts and are available in lengths from 5 to 7 inches depending on technique; shears for reducing bulk without shortening length; and clippers with adjustable guards for fades and short styles. Razors, often with replaceable blades, provide texturizing effects by slicing at angles. Brushes and combs facilitate detangling, sectioning, and styling: paddle brushes smooth with widely spaced bristles; round brushes, typically 1-2 inches in diameter, add during blow-drying; tail combs with fine teeth enable precise parting; and wide-tooth combs prevent breakage on wet . Sectioning clips, usually alligator-style with non-slip grips, hold portions of hair securely during work. Heat-based equipment encompasses blow dryers with ionic or technology for faster drying and reduced , delivering airflow up to 1800 watts; flat irons with adjustable temperatures from 250-450°F for straightening; and curling irons or wands, often titanium-coated, for defining waves. Spray bottles dispense water or products evenly, while protective capes shield clothing from clippings and chemicals.

Chemical and Natural Products

Chemical products used in hairstyling primarily include oxidative dyes, bleaches, permanent waving agents, and relaxers, which chemically modify hair's structure via oxidation-reduction reactions or alkaline of bonds. Permanent hair dyes rely on aromatic amines like para-phenylenediamine (PPD), which diffuse into the cortex and polymerize with to form stable color molecules, enabling coverage of gray hair but posing risks of severe responsible for approximately 75% of hair dye-related allergies. , present in many oxidative formulations at concentrations up to 2%, swells the to facilitate penetration but can irritate the and upon . Bleaches employ persulfates and to strip and break bonds, lightening hair by up to several shades, though repeated use weakens the shaft, increasing breakage by disrupting cortical proteins. Hair relaxers, designed to straighten tightly coiled hair, utilize strong alkalis such as (lye-based, pH 12-14) or hydroxide (no-lye, milder pH) to hydrolyze up to 80% of bonds in , permanently altering curl pattern but rendering hair more fragile and prone to burns if overprocessed. Formaldehyde-releasing agents in some keratin-smoothing treatments proteins for semi-permanent straightening, yet they emit the at levels exceeding OSHA limits (0.75 ppm), correlating with and potential respiratory . Epidemiological data from the Sister Study (46,000+ women) indicate that frequent use (more than four times yearly) of chemical straighteners doubles the risk of , potentially due to endocrine-disrupting parabens and absorbed through the . Permanent waving solutions, incorporating thioglycolates at 5-11% concentration, reduce bonds under heat or time to impart curls, followed by oxidation neutralizers, but overuse compromises tensile strength by 20-30%. Natural products, such as vegetable oils and butters, function mainly as emollients and occlusives, depositing fatty acids on or within the shaft to mitigate mechanical damage without altering . Coconut oil, rich in , penetrates the fiber matrix more effectively than mineral oils, reducing protein loss from combing by up to 50% in tensile strength tests on treated . , containing tocopherols and sterols, enhances hydration and elasticity in damaged , with in vitro studies showing decreased cuticular abrasion after application. Shea butter and similar butters (e.g., , cocoa) form protective films that seal moisture, improving combability in curly types, though excessive layering can impede water absorption and promote buildup. Brazilian oils like buriti and passion fruit, varying in chain lengths, increase gloss by 10-20% and reduce split ends in treated tresses, attributed to their affinity for lipids. Unlike chemicals, these exhibit low allergenicity but provide transient benefits, with efficacy dependent on and environmental humidity rather than permanent restructuring.

Professional Industry Dynamics

The professional hairstyling industry encompasses salons, barbershops, and specialized services focused on cutting, coloring, and styling , generating significant economic activity through direct and product sales. Globally, the salon services market reached $247.02 billion in 2024 and is projected to expand to $264.93 billion in 2025, driven by rising demand for personalized grooming amid increasing disposable incomes in emerging markets. In the United States, the hair salons sector alone is estimated at $60 billion in revenue for 2025, reflecting a of 5.5% over the prior five years, supported by consumer confidence and routine maintenance visits. This growth sustains over 1 million establishments nationwide, including approximately 1.05 million dedicated hair salons as of 2024. Employment in the sector is robust, with barbers, hairstylists, and cosmetologists comprising a key occupational group projected to increase by 5% from 2024 to 2034 in the , outpacing average job growth due to sustained demand for personal care services. Professionals often operate within independent salons or franchise models, where revenue streams derive primarily from cuts and styling (63-67% of income) and chemical treatments like coloring (around 23%). Entry requires formal and licensing, varying by ; in the US, state cosmetology boards mandate 1,000-2,000 hours of education covering , chemistry, and techniques, enforced to mitigate risks from tools and products. European regulations differ by country, with some requiring apprenticeships or vocational certifications under broader vocational frameworks, though harmonized cosmetics rules under the EU Cosmetics Regulation govern product safety used in styling, emphasizing pre-market safety assessments absent in US federal law. Industry dynamics are shaped by operational challenges, including labor shortages and rising costs, alongside adaptations like digital booking and AI-driven personalization projected to influence 2025 operations. pressures, such as eco-friendly product sourcing, are emerging empirically from consumer preferences for reduced chemical waste, though verifiable impacts remain tied to efficiencies rather than unsubstantiated wellness claims. Economic resilience post-pandemic underscores the sector's role in local job creation, with non-employer stylists contributing to steady expansion in flexible booth-rental models. from at-home products necessitates differentiation through skilled execution, as professional services command premiums based on expertise in hair biology and technique durability.

Cultural and Social Significance

Gender and Biological Dimorphism

Human scalp hair exhibits subtle sexual dimorphism influenced by sex hormones, with estrogen in females extending the anagen growth phase, enabling potential for longer hair lengths compared to males where testosterone correlates with shorter cycles and higher susceptibility to miniaturization. Hair growth rates average approximately 1 cm per month in both sexes, but females maintain higher elasticity and tensile strength, facilitating sustained length without breakage. Male pattern baldness, driven by dihydrotestosterone sensitivity, affects 16% of men aged 18-29 and rises to 53% by ages 40-49, contrasting with rarer female pattern loss until post-menopause. These biological disparities underpin gendered hairstyle norms, where historically and cross-culturally favor longer, elaborate styles signaling health and reproductive viability through luster and volume, traits amplified by estrogen's role in follicle proliferation. In males, shorter cuts predominate, aligning with accelerated shedding and androgenetic alopecia risks that render prolonged growth impractical; empirical surveys indicate only 13.2% of adults achieve shoulder-length or beyond, disproportionately due to physiological capacity. Evolutionary pressures likely selected for female as a cue of and , absent in males where density serves alternative signaling, though cultural enforcement amplifies innate dimorphism. Hairstyling practices thus accentuate dimorphism: female techniques emphasize extension, , and to showcase length, while male methods prioritize cropping and minimal intervention to mitigate visibility. Peer-reviewed analyses confirm reduced growth rates in both sexes under patterned loss, but prevalence enforces brevity as adaptive, with no equivalent hormonal barrier in females pre-andropause. This biological foundation persists despite modern interventions, as evidenced by higher adoption of short styles globally.

Religious and Symbolic Roles

In , uncut hair known as kesh represents one of the five articles of faith (panj kakars) mandated by in 1699, symbolizing acceptance of God's natural creation and rejection of ego-driven alteration. maintain kesh to honor the body's form as endowed by the divine, with historical edicts from the tenth emphasizing its role in spiritual discipline and communal identity. Orthodox Jewish men observe payot (sidelocks) based on Leviticus 19:27, which prohibits rounding the corners of the head or beard, interpreted as a commandment to preserve hair at the temples to distinguish from pagan practices of idolaters who altered their hair for ritual purposes. This custom, prominent among Hasidic and Haredi communities, underscores separation from worldly assimilation and adherence to Torah-prescribed boundaries. In , the mundan (or tonsure) ceremony involves shaving an infant's head, typically between the first and third year, to symbolize purification from impurities associated with past lives and to invoke divine blessings for and longevity. Performed at sacred sites like temples, it ritually removes negative karma and promotes scalp , rooted in Vedic traditions viewing as a carrier of residual ego. Christian monastic , practiced from the onward, entailed shaving the crown or a circular patch of to signify of worldly , before , and entry into clerical orders as a visible mark of devotion. This rite, documented in early church councils like the Council of Toledo in 633, imitated apostolic and rejected fashionable grooming, though variations existed between Roman (frontal shave) and Celtic (full crown) styles until its suppression in the in 1972. Ancient Egyptian priests shaved their entire bodies, including heads, daily as a purity to eliminate lice and bodily impurities before temple service, ensuring ritual cleanliness essential for mediating with gods. This practice, evident in texts like ' Histories (circa 440 BC), contrasted with laypeople's wigs and underscored the priests' role in maintaining cosmic order (ma'at). Symbolically, hair cutting features in mourning rituals across cultures; Hindu widows historically shaved heads to express and detachment from vanity, while some Native American tribes cut hair to release the deceased's spirit. In Victorian (), preserved hair locks served as mementos in jewelry, embodying enduring bonds without overt religious connotation. These acts reflect hair's role as a vessel for vitality, with alteration signaling transition, loss, or renewal.

Status Signaling and Life Stages

In , elaborate wigs constructed from human hair were predominantly reserved for the elite classes, serving as markers of high social rank within the society's stratified while also providing practical protection from the sun's intensity. These wigs, often adorned with beads or extensions, required significant resources and skilled labor, thereby visibly distinguishing from commoners who typically shaved their heads and wore simpler alternatives. Similarly, in Sumerian society around 2500 BC, royal figures like employed reconstructed headgear mimicking intricate coiffures, underscoring wealth and authority through opulent materials such as gold and . Such practices reflect a broader anthropological where hairstyle complexity correlates with resource access and labor investment, signaling status without verbal communication. Hairstyles frequently denote life stage transitions across cultures, altering to reflect maturity, reproduction, or loss. In traditional Himba society of , women's dreadlock configurations evolve with age and : young unmarried girls wear two plaits symbolizing eligibility, while married women adopt thicker, ochre-coated styles indicating fertility and rank, with hair thickness further proxying nutritional health and reproductive potential. Among Orthodox Jewish communities, unmarried women maintain visible natural hair as a sign of availability, but post-marriage, they crop or cover it with sheitels (wigs) or scarves to embody tziniyut () and affirm wedded status, a custom rooted in interpretations of biblical texts emphasizing spousal exclusivity. In East Asian traditions, such as historical Korea and , unbound or simply styled hair marked unmarried youth, whereas elaborate updos or topknots post-marriage or upon entering adulthood signified social maturity and gender-specific roles. Mourning rituals often involve hair alteration to externalize grief and sever symbolic ties to the deceased. In epics, such as the , warriors like Achilles ritually cut locks of hair during funerals to honor the dead and mark communal loss, a practice echoed in Indo-European traditions where severed hair represented sacrificed vitality. Conversely, Jewish prohibits haircuts during the initial mourning period—up to seven days for immediate family—to embody unkempt dishevelment as visible affliction, extending restrictions for up to 30 days thereafter. In Hindu customs, immediate family members, particularly widows, shave their heads post-cremation as a rite of purification and detachment from worldly vanities, a practice documented in Vedic texts and persisting in some communities despite modern legal challenges. These variations highlight hair's role as a mutable boundary between and collective norms, with empirical consistency in its use for signaling existential shifts rather than arbitrary .

Health and Hygiene Considerations

Tight hairstyles, such as braids, ponytails, or extensions that exert prolonged tension on hair follicles, can lead to , a form of characterized by follicular damage and . This condition is reversible in early stages if tension is relieved promptly, but chronic application may result in permanent follicle , particularly along the frontal and temporal scalp margins where tension is highest. Dermatological evidence indicates that repetitive pulling disrupts the hair growth cycle by inducing mechanical stress, with higher incidence observed in populations favoring such styles due to cultural practices rather than inherent biological predisposition. Chemical treatments like relaxers, dyes, and straighteners pose risks including hair shaft fragility, irritation, and from ingredients such as thioglycolates or formaldehyde releasers. Peer-reviewed analyses link frequent use of alkaline relaxers to increased risk, with a 2022 study of over 33,000 U.S. women finding that those using straighteners more than four times annually faced a 1.3- to 2.1-fold elevated compared to non-users, potentially due to endocrine-disrupting compounds absorbed through the . Oxidative dyes containing aromatic amines have been associated with in professional hairdressers via occupational exposure, though consumer risks remain lower absent genetic predispositions like slow NAT2 . Proper scalp hygiene mitigates seborrhea, , and infections by regulating sebum and microbial balance; empirical data from controlled trials show that washing 5-6 times weekly optimizes scalp condition and reduces overgrowth, a implicated in and . Underwashing allows product residue and dead skin accumulation, fostering bacterial or fungal proliferation—such as in black piedra, which forms nodules on long, humid hair shafts in tropical climates, or Trichosporon species in —potentially leading to breakage and secondary infections if untreated. exacerbates these issues by trapping moisture and debris, increasing risk from occluded follicles, though regular detangling and antimicrobial shampoos can prevent escalation without necessitating shortening. Overwashing, conversely, strips natural , prompting compensatory sebum hyperproduction and dryness, underscoring the need for individualized regimens based on hair and environmental factors.

Controversies and Debates

Cultural Appropriation Disputes

Cultural appropriation disputes in hairstyling primarily involve accusations that non-Black individuals, particularly white celebrities, adopt styles originating from African or traditions, such as , , , and Bantu knots, without respecting their historical and cultural significance. These claims gained prominence in the , amplified by , where adopters are criticized for commodifying or trivializing styles tied to Black identity, resilience, and resistance against historical oppression, including slavery-era coding in for escape routes or tribal affiliations. For instance, in 1979, actress faced early backlash for wearing in the film 10, later rebranded by some as "Bo Derek braids," highlighting perceived detachment from origins dating to at least 500 BC in Nigerian artifacts. Proponents of appropriation arguments point to a : Black individuals often face professional for these protective styles, with a 2023 Perception Institute study finding Black women 1.5 times more likely to be disciplined at work for their hair compared to white women, fueling laws like the CROWN Act passed in multiple U.S. states since 2019 to prohibit such bias. Critics, however, contend that hairstyles lack exclusive cultural ownership, as braiding and matting techniques appear independently across civilizations—evidenced by Viking plaits in 9th-century European graves, ' locks described by Roman historians in 30 BC, and Hindu sadhus' jata since Vedic texts around 1500 BC—suggesting functional adaptations to hair texture and environment rather than proprietary innovation. Empirical historical records show no monopoly; for example, cornrow-like styles predate African enslavement in European and Asian contexts, undermining claims of "theft" absent evidence of harm or erasure beyond subjective offense. These disputes reflect broader tensions over power dynamics, where dominant groups' adoption is seen as exoticizing trends while minorities endure stigma, yet first-principles analysis reveals cultural exchange as bidirectional and inevitable through migration and , not zero-sum exploitation. Mainstream media coverage, often from outlets with documented progressive biases, amplifies emotional narratives over archaeological consensus on hairstyle universality, as seen in debates following 2018 celebrity "boxer braids" renamings. Legal attempts to protect styles, like South Africa's 2020 push for on Black hairstyles, have faltered due to inherent unpatentability of functional forms, reinforcing that disputes hinge more on than verifiable exclusivity.

Health Myths and Empirical Realities

One prevalent misconception holds that trimming hair ends accelerates growth to support elaborate hairstyles, but empirical evidence demonstrates that hair growth originates solely at the follicular level in the , unaffected by end removal, with average rates of 0.5 inches per month varying by and rather than cutting frequency. Similarly, the belief that frequent shampooing during hairstyle maintenance strips natural oils and damages hair lacks support; controlled studies show no objective harm from daily or near-daily washing when using appropriate formulations, and it often improves scalp hygiene by reducing sebum buildup and microbial issues that could exacerbate follicle stress under tension styles. In contrast, the risks of from prolonged tight hairstyles, such as braids, , or ponytails, represent an empirically verified reality rather than myth, with histopathological studies confirming follicular miniaturization and scarring from sustained mechanical tension, particularly affecting the frontal and temporal margins after months to years of repetitive pulling. This condition, initially reversible if tension is relieved early, progresses to permanent loss in up to one-third of affected individuals, predominantly those with curly or textured hair due to greater breakage susceptibility under strain, as documented in dermatological registries and biopsies. Peer-reviewed analyses emphasize causal links to hairstyle practices, with tension forces exceeding 1-2 Newtons per follicle triggering and , underscoring the need for looser styles or periodic breaks to preserve integrity. Another fallacy posits that all scalp-covering or elaborate hairstyles inherently promote health by "protecting" follicles, yet data reveal that occluded or weighted styles can trap moisture, fostering fungal overgrowth and dermatitis, while extensions or weaves add traction risks comparable to braiding. Longitudinal observations in diverse populations indicate that natural, low-tension styles correlate with fewer adverse scalp outcomes than chemically or mechanically intensive ones, with breakage rates increasing 20-50% under daily heat-assisted styling for volume or straightening. These findings, derived from clinical trials and scalp biopsies, prioritize empirical scalp barrier maintenance over unsubstantiated protective claims, as disrupted barrier function via oxidative stress from poor ventilation directly impairs hair retention.

References

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