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Gemstone
Gemstone
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Group of precious and semiprecious stones—both uncut and faceted—including (clockwise from top left) diamond, uncut synthetic sapphire, ruby, uncut emerald, and amethyst crystal cluster.

A gemstone (also called a fine gem, jewel, precious stone, semiprecious stone, or simply gem) is a piece of mineral crystal which, when cut or polished, is used to make jewelry or other adornments.[1][2][3] Certain rocks (such as lapis lazuli, opal, and obsidian) and occasionally organic materials that are not minerals (such as amber, jet, and pearl) may also be used for jewelry and are therefore often considered to be gemstones as well.[4][5] Most gemstones are hard, but some softer minerals such as brazilianite may be used in jewelry[6] because of their color or luster or other physical properties that have aesthetic value. However, generally speaking, soft minerals are not typically used as gemstones by virtue of their brittleness and lack of durability.[7]

Found all over the world, the industry of coloured gemstones (i.e. anything other than diamonds) is currently estimated at US$1.55 billion as of 2023 and is projected to steadily increase to a value of $4.46 billion by 2033.[8]

A gem expert is a gemologist, a gem maker is called a lapidarist or gemcutter; a diamond cutter is called a diamantaire.

Characteristics and classification

[edit]
A collection of gemstone pebbles made by tumbling the rough stones, except the ruby and tourmaline, with abrasive grit inside a rotating barrel. The largest pebble here is 40 mm (1.6 in) long.

The traditional classification in the West, which goes back to the ancient Greeks, begins with a distinction between precious and semi-precious; similar distinctions are made in other cultures. In modern use, the precious stones are emerald, ruby, sapphire and diamond, with all other gemstones being semi-precious.[9] This distinction reflects the rarity of the respective stones in ancient times, as well as their quality: all are translucent, with fine color in their purest forms (except for the colorless diamond), and very hard with a hardness score of 8 to 10 on the Mohs scale.[10] Other stones are classified by their color, translucency, and hardness. The traditional distinction does not necessarily reflect modern values; for example, while most garnets are relatively inexpensive, a green garnet called tsavorite can be far more valuable than a mid-quality emerald.[11] Another traditional term for semi-precious gemstones used in art history and archaeology is hardstone. The use of the terms "precious" and "semi-precious" in a commercial context is arguably misleading, as it suggests that certain stones are more valuable than others, which is not always reflected in their actual market value—although the terms may generally be accurate when referring to desirability.

In modern times gemstones are identified by gemologists, who describe gems and their characteristics using technical terminology specific to the field of gemology. The first characteristic a gemologist uses to identify a gemstone is its chemical composition. For example, diamonds are made of carbon (C), while sapphires and rubies are made of aluminium oxide (Al
2
O
3
). Many gems are crystals which are classified by their crystal system such as cubic or trigonal or monoclinic. Another term used is habit, the form the gem is usually found in.[12] For example, diamonds, which have a cubic crystal system, are often found as octahedrons.[13]

Gemstones are classified into different groups, species, and varieties.[14][15] For example, ruby is the red variety of the species corundum, while any other color of corundum is considered sapphire. Other examples of beryl varieties include emerald (green), aquamarine (blue), red beryl (red), goshenite (colorless), heliodor (yellow), and morganite (pink).

Gems are characterized in terms of their color (hue, tone and saturation), optical phenomena, luster, refractive index, birefringence, dispersion, specific gravity, hardness, cleavage, and fracture.[16][17] They may exhibit pleochroism or double refraction. They may have luminescence and a distinctive absorption spectrum. Gemstones may also be classified in terms of their "water". This is a recognized grading of the gem's luster, transparency, or "brilliance".[18] Very transparent gems are considered "first water", while "second" or "third water" gems are those of a lesser transparency.[19][20] Additionally, material or flaws within a stone may be present as inclusions.[21]

Value

[edit]
Spanish emerald and gold pendant at Victoria and Albert Museum
Enamelled gold, amethyst, and pearl pendant, about 1880, Pasquale Novissimo (1844–1914), V&A Museum number M.36-1928

Gemstones have no universally accepted grading system. Diamonds are graded using a system developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in the early 1950s. Historically, all gemstones were graded using the naked eye. The GIA system included a major innovation: the introduction of 10x magnification as the standard for grading clarity. Other gemstones are still graded using the naked eye (assuming 20/20 vision).[22]

A mnemonic device, the "four Cs" (color, cut, clarity, and carats), has been introduced to help describe the factors used to grade a diamond. With modification, these categories can be useful in understanding the grading of all gemstones. The four criteria carry different weights depending upon whether they are applied to colored gemstones or to colorless diamonds. In diamonds, the cut is the primary determinant of value, followed by clarity and color. An ideally cut diamond will sparkle, to break down light into its constituent rainbow colors (dispersion), chop it up into bright little pieces (scintillation), and deliver it to the eye (brilliance). In its rough crystalline form, a diamond will do none of these things; it requires proper fashioning and this is called "cut". In gemstones that have color, including colored diamonds, the purity, and beauty of that color is the primary determinant of quality.[23]

Physical characteristics that make a colored stone valuable are color, clarity to a lesser extent (emeralds will always have a number of inclusions), cut, unusual optical phenomena within the stone such as color zoning (the uneven distribution of coloring within a gem)[24] and asteria (star effects).

Apart from the more generic and commonly used gemstones such as from diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, pearls and opal[25] have also been defined as precious in the jewellery trade. Up to the discoveries of bulk amethyst in Brazil in the 19th century, amethyst was considered a "precious stone" as well, going back to ancient Greece. Even in the last century certain stones such as aquamarine, peridot and cat's eye (cymophane) have been popular and hence been regarded as precious, thus reinforcing the notion that a mineral's rarity may have been implicated in its classification as a precious stone and thus contribute to its value.

Today the gemstone trade no longer makes such a distinction.[26] Many gemstones are used in even the most expensive jewelry, depending on the brand-name of the designer, fashion trends, market supply, treatments, etc. Nevertheless, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds still have a reputation that exceeds those of other gemstones.[27]

Rare or unusual gemstones, generally understood to include those gemstones which occur so infrequently in gem quality that they are scarcely known except to connoisseurs, include andalusite, axinite, cassiterite, clinohumite, painite and red beryl.[28]

Gemstone pricing and value are governed by factors and characteristics in the quality of the stone. These characteristics include clarity, rarity, freedom from defects, the beauty of the stone, as well as the demand for such stones. There are different pricing influencers for both colored gemstones, and for diamonds. The pricing on colored stones is determined by market supply-and-demand, but diamonds are more intricate.[29]

In the addition to the aesthetic and adorning/ornamental purpose of gemstones, there are proponents of energy medicine who also value gemstones on the basis of their alleged healing powers.[30]

Grading

[edit]

There are a number of laboratories which grade and provide reports on gemstones.[26]

  • Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the main provider of education services and diamond grading reports
  • International Gemological Institute (IGI), independent laboratory for grading and evaluation of diamonds, jewelry, and colored stones
  • Hoge Raad Voor Diamant (HRD Antwerp), The Diamond High Council, Belgium is one of Europe's oldest laboratories; its main stakeholder is the Antwerp World Diamond Centre
  • American Gemological Society (AGS) is not as widely recognized nor as old as the GIA
  • American Gem Trade Laboratory which is part of the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), a trade organization of jewelers and dealers of colored stones
  • American Gemological Laboratories (AGL), owned by Christopher P. Smith
  • European Gemological Laboratory (EGL), founded in 1974 by Guy Margel in Belgium
  • Gemmological Association of All Japan (GAAJ-ZENHOKYO), Zenhokyo, Japan, active in gemological research
  • The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (Public Organization) or GIT, Thailand's national institute for gemological research and gem testing, Bangkok[31]
  • Gemmology Institute of Southern Africa, Africa's premium gem laboratory
  • Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS), the oldest gemological institute in South East Asia, involved in gemological education and gem testing
  • Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF), founded by Henry Hänni, focusing on colored gemstones and the identification of natural pearls
  • Gübelin Gem Lab, the traditional Swiss lab founded by Eduard Gübelin

Each laboratory has its own methodology to evaluate gemstones. A stone can be called "pink" by one lab while another lab calls it "padparadscha". One lab can conclude a stone is untreated, while another lab might conclude that it is heat-treated.[26] To minimize such differences, seven of the most respected labs, AGTA-GTL (New York), CISGEM (Milano), GAAJ-ZENHOKYO (Tokyo), GIA (Carlsbad), GIT (Bangkok), Gübelin (Lucerne) and SSEF (Basel), have established the Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee (LMHC), for the standardization of wording reports, promotion of certain analytical methods and interpretation of results. Country of origin has sometimes been difficult to determine, due to the constant discovery of new source locations. Determining a "country of origin" is thus much more difficult than determining other aspects of a gem (such as cut, clarity, etc.).[32]

Gem dealers are aware of the differences between gem laboratories and will make use of the discrepancies to obtain the best possible certificate.[26]

Cutting and polishing

[edit]
A diamond cutter in Amsterdam

A few gemstones are used as gems in the crystal or other forms in which they are found. Most, however, are cut and polished for usage as jewelry. The two main classifications are as follows:

  • Stones cut as smooth, dome-shaped stones called cabochons or simply cab. These have been a popular shape since ancient time and are more durable than faceted gems.[33]
  • Stones which are cut with a faceting machine by polishing small flat windows called facets at regular intervals at exact angles.[33]

Stones which are opaque or semi-opaque such as opal, turquoise, variscite, etc. are commonly cut as cabochons. These gems are designed to show the stone's color, luster and other surface properties as opposed to internal reflection properties like brilliance.[33] Grinding wheels and polishing agents are used to grind, shape, and polish the smooth dome shape of the stones.[34]

Gems that are transparent are normally faceted, a method that shows the optical properties of the stone's interior to its best advantage by maximizing reflected light which is perceived by the viewer as sparkle. There are many commonly used shapes for faceted stones. The facets must be cut at the proper angles, which varies depending on the optical properties of the gem. If the angles are too steep or too shallow, the light will pass through and not be reflected back toward the viewer. The faceting machine is used to hold the stone onto a flat lap for cutting and polishing the flat facets.[35] Rarely, some cutters use special curved laps to cut and polish curved facets.

Colors

[edit]
Nearly 300 variations of diamond color exhibited at the Aurora display at the Natural History Museum in London
A variety of semiprecious stones in a piece of jewellery

The color of any material is due to the nature of light itself. Daylight, often called white light, is all of the colors of the spectrum combined. When light strikes a material, most of the light is absorbed while a smaller amount of a particular frequency or wavelength is reflected. The part that is reflected reaches the eye as the perceived color.[36] A ruby appears red because it absorbs all other colors of white light while reflecting red.

A material which is mostly the same can exhibit different colors. For example, ruby and sapphire have the same primary chemical composition (both are corundum)[37] but exhibit different colors because of impurities which absorb and reflect different wavelengths of light depending on their individual compositions. Even the same named gemstone can occur in many different colors: sapphires show different shades of blue and pink and "fancy sapphires" exhibit a whole range of other colors from yellow to orange-pink, the latter called "padparadscha sapphire".[38]

This difference in color is based on the atomic structure of the stone. Although the different stones formally have the same chemical composition and structure, they are not exactly the same. Every now and then an atom is replaced by a completely different atom, sometimes as few as one in a million atoms. These so-called impurities are sufficient to absorb certain colors and leave the other colors unaffected. For example, beryl, which is colorless in its pure mineral form, becomes emerald with chromium impurities. If manganese is added instead of chromium, beryl becomes pink morganite. With iron, it becomes aquamarine. Some gemstone treatments make use of the fact that these impurities can be "manipulated", thus changing the color of the gem.

Treatment

[edit]

Gemstones are often treated to enhance the color or clarity of the stone.[39] In some cases, the treatment applied to the gemstone can also increase its durability. Even though natural gemstones can be transformed using the traditional method of cutting and polishing, other treatment options allow the stone's appearance to be enhanced.[40] Depending on the type and extent of treatment, they can affect the value of the stone. Some treatments are used widely because the resulting gem is stable, while others are not accepted most commonly because the gem color is unstable and may revert to the original tone.[41]

Early history

[edit]

Before modern-day tools, thousands of years ago, a variety of techniques were used to treat and enhance gemstones. Some of the earliest methods of gemstone treatment date back to the Minoan Age, for example foiling, in which metal foil is used to enhance a gemstone's colour.[42] Other methods recorded 2000 years ago in the book Natural History by Pliny the Elder include oiling and dyeing/staining.

Heat

[edit]

Heat can either improve or spoil gemstone color or clarity. The heating process has been well known to gem miners and cutters for centuries, and in many stone types heating is a common practice. Most citrine is made by heating amethyst, and partial heating with a strong gradient results in "ametrine" – a stone partly amethyst and partly citrine. Aquamarine is often heated to remove yellow tones, or to change green colors into the more desirable blue, or enhance its existing blue color to a deeper blue.[41]

Nearly all tanzanite is heated at low temperatures to remove brown undertones and give a more desirable blue / purple color.[43] A considerable portion of all sapphire and ruby is treated with a variety of heat treatments to improve both color and clarity.

When jewelry containing diamonds is heated for repairs, the diamond should be protected with boric acid; otherwise, the diamond, which is pure carbon, could be burned on the surface or even burned completely up. When jewelry containing sapphires or rubies is heated, those stones should not be coated with boric acid (which can etch the surface) or any other substance. They do not have to be protected from burning, like a diamond (although the stones do need to be protected from heat stress fracture by immersing the part of the jewelry with stones in the water when metal parts are heated).

Radiation

[edit]

The irradiation process is widely practiced in jewelry industry[44] and enabled the creation of gemstone colors that do not exist or are extremely rare in nature.[45] However, particularly when done in a nuclear reactor, the processes can make gemstones radioactive. Health risks related to the residual radioactivity of the treated gemstones have led to government regulations in many countries.[45][46]

Virtually all blue topaz, both the lighter and the darker blue shades such as "London" blue, has been irradiated to change the color from white to blue. Most green quartz (Oro Verde) are also irradiated to achieve the yellow-green color. Diamonds are mainly irradiated to become blue-green or green, although other colors are possible. When light-to-medium-yellow diamonds are treated with gamma rays they may become green; with a high-energy electron beam, blue.[47]

Waxing/oiling

[edit]

Emeralds containing natural fissures are sometimes filled with wax or oil to disguise them. This wax or oil is also colored to make the emerald appear of better color as well as clarity. Turquoise is also commonly treated in a similar manner.

Fracture filling

[edit]
The foreign material inside this fracture-filled emerald appears rainbow-colored under darkfield illumination.
The foreign material inside this fracture-filled emerald appears rainbow-colored under darkfield illumination.

Fracture filling has been in use with different gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires. In 2006 "glass-filled rubies" received publicity. Rubies over 10 carats (2 g) with large fractures were filled with lead glass, thus dramatically improving the appearance (of larger rubies in particular). Such treatments are fairly easy to detect.

Bleaching

[edit]
Pearls are a gemstone that is commonly treated with hydrogen peroxide to remove unwanted colours.

Another treatment method that is commonly used to treat gemstones is bleaching. This method uses a chemical in order to reduce the colour of the gem. After bleaching, a combination treatment can be done by dying the gemstone once the unwanted colours are removed. Hydrogen peroxide is the most commonly used product used to alter gemstones and have notably been used to treat jade and pearls. The treatment of bleaching can also be followed by impregnation, which allows the gemstone's durability to be increased.[40]

Socioeconomic issues in the gemstone industry

[edit]

The socio-economic dynamics of the gemstone industry are shaped by market forces and consumer preferences and typically go undiscussed. Changes in demand and prices can significantly affect the livelihoods of those involved in gemstone mining and trade, particularly in developing countries where the industry serves as a crucial source of income.[48]

A situation that arises as a result of this is the exploitation of natural resources and labor within gemstone mining operations. Many mines, particularly in developing countries, face challenges such as inadequate safety measures, low wages, and poor working conditions.[48] Miners, often from disadvantaged backgrounds, endure hazardous working conditions and receive meager wages, contributing to cycles of poverty and exploitation.[49] Gemstone mining operations are frequently conducted in remote or underdeveloped areas, lacking proper infrastructure and access to essential services such as healthcare and education. This further contributes to the pre-existing socio-economic disparities and obstructs community development such that the benefits of gemstone extraction may not adequately reach those directly involved in the process.[50]

Another such issue revolves around environmental degradation resulting from mining activities. Environmental degradation can pose long-term threats to ecosystems and biodiversity, further worsening the socio-economic state in affected regions.[51] Unregulated mining practices often result in deforestation, soil erosion, and water contamination thus threatening ecosystems and biodiversity.[52] Unregulated mining activity can also cause depletion of natural resources, thus diminishing the prospects for sustainable development.[53] The environmental impact of gemstone mining not only poses a threat to ecosystems but also undermines the long-term viability of the industry by diminishing the quality and quantity of available resources.

Furthermore, the gemstone industry is also susceptible to issues related to transparency and ethics, which impact both producers and consumers. The lack of standardized certification processes and the prevalence of illicit practices undermine market integrity and trust.[54] The lack of transparency and accountability in the supply chain aggravates pre-existing inequalities, as middlemen and corporations often capture a disproportionate share of the profits. As a result, the unequal distribution of profits along the supply chain does little to improve socio-economic inequalities, particularly in regions where gemstones are mined.

Addressing these socio-economic challenges requires intensive effort from various stakeholders, including governments, industry executives, and society, to promote sustainable practices and ensure equitable outcomes for all involved parties. Implementing and enforcing regulations to ensure fair labor practices, environmental sustainability, and ethical sourcing is essential. Additionally, investing in community development projects, such as education and healthcare initiatives, can help alleviate poverty and empower marginalized communities dependent on the gemstone industry. Collaboration across sectors is crucial for fostering a more equitable and sustainable gemstone trade that benefits both producers and consumers while respecting human rights and environmental integrity.

Synthetic and artificial gemstones

[edit]

Synthetic gemstones are distinct from imitation or simulated gems.

Synthetic gems are physically, optically, and chemically identical to the natural stone, but are created in a laboratory.[55] Imitation or simulated stones are chemically different from the natural stone, but may appear quite similar to it; they can be more easily manufactured synthetic gemstones of a different mineral (spinel), glass, plastic, resins, or other compounds.

Examples of simulated or imitation stones include cubic zirconia, composed of zirconium oxide, synthetic moissanite, and uncolored, synthetic corundum or spinels; all of which are diamond simulants. The simulants imitate the look and color of the real stone but possess neither their chemical nor physical characteristics. In general, all are less hard than diamond. Moissanite actually has a higher refractive index than diamond, and when presented beside an equivalently sized and cut diamond will show more "fire".

Cultured, synthetic, or "lab-created" gemstones are not imitations: The bulk mineral and trace coloring elements are the same in both. For example, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds have been manufactured in labs that possess chemical and physical characteristics identical to the naturally occurring variety. Synthetic (lab created) corundum, including ruby and sapphire, is very common and costs much less than the natural stones. Small synthetic diamonds have been manufactured in large quantities as industrial abrasives, although larger gem-quality synthetic diamonds are becoming available in multiple carats.[56]

Whether a gemstone is a natural stone or synthetic, the chemical, physical, and optical characteristics are the same: They are composed of the same mineral and are colored by the same trace materials, have the same hardness and density and strength, and show the same color spectrum, refractive index, and birefringence (if any). Lab-created stones tend to have a more vivid color since impurities common in natural stones are not present in the synthetic stone. Synthetics are made free of common naturally occurring impurities that reduce gem clarity or color unless intentionally added in order to provide a more drab, natural appearance, or to deceive an assayer.[57] On the other hand, synthetics often show flaws not seen in natural stones, such as minute particles of corroded metal from lab trays used during synthesis.[58]

Types

[edit]

Some gemstones are more difficult to synthesize than others and not all stones are commercially viable to attempt to synthesize. These are the most common on the market currently.[59]

Synthetic corundum

[edit]

Synthetic corundum includes ruby (red variation) and sapphire (other color variations), both of which are considered highly desired and valued.[59] Ruby was the first gemstone to be synthesized by Auguste Verneuil with his development of the flame-fusion process in 1902.[60] Synthetic corundum continues to be made typically by flame-fusion as it is most cost-effective, but can also be produced through flux growth and hydrothermal growth.[61]

Synthetic beryls

[edit]

The most common synthesized beryl is emerald (green). Yellow, red and blue beryls are possible but much more rare. Synthetic emerald became possible with the development of the flux growth process and is produced in this way and well as hydrothermal growth.[62]

Synthetic quartz

[edit]

Types of synthetic quartz include citrine, rose quartz, and amethyst. Natural occurring quartz is not rare, but is nevertheless synthetically produced as it has practical application outside of aesthetic purposes. Quartz generates an electric current when under pressure and is used in watches, clocks, and oscillators.[63]

Synthetic spinel

[edit]

Synthetic spinel was first produced by accident.[clarification needed] It can be created in any color making it popular to simulate various natural gemstones. It is created through flux growth and hydrothermal growth.[59]

Creation process

[edit]

There are two main categories for creation of these minerals: melt or solution processes.[59]

Verneuil flame fusion process (melt process)

[edit]
Verneuil furnace

The flame fusion process was the first process used which successfully created large quantities of synthetic gemstones to be sold on the market.[64] This remains the most cost effective and common method of creating corundums today.

The flame fusion process is completed in a Verneuil furnace. The furnace consists of an inverted blowpipe burner which produces an extremely hot oxyhydrogen flame, a powder dispenser, and a ceramic pedestal.[65] A chemical powder which corresponds to the desired gemstone is passed through this flame. This melts the ingredients which drop on to a plate and solidify into a crystal called a boule.[65] For corundum the flame must be 2000 °C. This process takes hours and yields a crystal with the same properties as its natural counterpart.

To produce corundum, a pure aluminium powder is used with different additives to achieve different colors.[65]

  • Chromic oxide for ruby
  • Iron and titanium oxide for blue sapphire
  • Nickel oxide for yellow sapphire
  • Nickel, chromium and iron for orange sapphire
  • Manganese for pink sapphire
  • Copper for blue-green sapphire
  • Cobalt for dark blue sapphire

Czochralski process (melt process)

[edit]

In 1918 this process was developed by J. Czocharalski[65] and is also referred to as the "crystal pulling" method. In this process, the required gemstone materials are added to a crucible. A seed stone is placed into the melt in the crucible. As the gem begins to crystallize on the seed, the seed is pulled away and the gem continues to grow.[59] This is used for corundum but is currently the least popular method.[64]

Flux growth (solution process)

[edit]

The flux growth process was the first process able to synthesize emerald.[62] Flux growth begins with a crucible which can withstand high heat; either graphite or platinum which is filled with a molten liquid referred to as flux.[66] The specific gem ingredients are added and dissolved in this fluid and recrystallize to form the desired gemstone.This is a longer process compared to the flame fusion process and can take two months up to a year depending on the desired final size.[67]

Hydrothermal growth (solution process)

[edit]

The hydrothermal growth process attempts to imitate the natural growth process of minerals. The required gem materials are sealed in a container of water and placed under extreme pressure. The water is heated beyond its boiling point which allows normally insoluble materials to dissolve. As more material cannot be added once the container is sealed, in order to create a larger gem the process would begin with a "seed" stone from a previous batch which the new material will crystallize on. This process takes a few weeks to complete.

Characteristics

[edit]

Synthetic gemstones share chemical and physical properties with natural gemstones, but there are some slight differences that can be used to discern synthetic from natural.[68] These differences are slight and often require microscopy as a tool to distinguish differences. Undetectable synthetics pose a threat to the market if they are able to be sold as rare natural gemstones.[citation needed][69] Because of this there are certain characteristic gemologists look for. Each crystal is characteristic to the environment and growth process under which it was created.

Visible banding in an apatite gemstone

Gemstones created from the flame-fusion process may have

  • small air bubbles which were trapped inside the boule during formation process
  • visible banding from formation of the boule
  • chatter marks which on the surface which appear crack like which are caused from damage during polishing of the gemstone

Gemstones created from flux melt process may have

  • small cavities which are filled with flux solution
  • inclusions in the gemstone from crucible used[70]

Gemstones created from hydrothermal growth may have

  • inclusions from container used[70]

History

[edit]
Auguste Verneuil – creator of flame-fusion process 1902

Prior to development of synthesising processes the alternatives on the market to natural gemstones were imitations or fake. In 1837, the first successful synthesis of ruby occurred.[64] French chemist Marc Gaudin managed to produce small crystals of ruby from melting together potassium aluminium sulphate and potassium chromate through what would later be known as the flux melt process.[65] Following this, another French chemist Fremy was able to grow large quantities of small ruby crystals using a lead flux.[66]

A few years later an alternative to flux melt was developed which led to the introduction of what was labeled "reconstructed ruby" to the market. Reconstructed ruby was sold as a process which produced larger rubies from melting together bits of natural ruby.[67] In later attempts to recreate this process it was found to not be possible and is believed reconstructed rubies were most likely created using a multi-step method of melting of ruby powder.[65]

Auguste Verneuil, a student of Fremy, went on to develop flame-fusion as an alternative to the flux-melt method. He developed large furnaces which were able to produce large quantities of corundums more efficiently and shifted the gemstone market dramatically.[71] This process is still used today and the furnaces have not changed much from the original design.[72] World production of corundum using this method reaches 1000 million carats a year.

List of rare gemstones

[edit]
  • Painite was discovered in 1956 in Ohngaing in Myanmar. The mineral was named in honor of the British gemologist Arthur Charles Davy Pain. At one point it was considered the rarest mineral on Earth.[73]
  • Tanzanite was discovered in 1967 in Northern Tanzania. With its supply possibly declining in the next 30 years, this gemstone is considered to be more rare than a diamond. This type of gemstone receives its vibrant blue from being heated.[74]
  • Hibonite was discovered in 1956 in Madagascar. It was named after the discoverer, French geologist Paul Hibon. Gem quality hibonite has been found only in Myanmar.[75]
Red Beryl – discovered in 1904
  • Red beryl or bixbite was discovered in an area near Beaver, Utah in 1904 and named after the American mineralogist Maynard Bixby.
  • Jeremejevite was discovered in 1883 in Russia and named after its discoverer, Pawel Wladimirowich Jeremejew (1830–1899).
  • Chambersite was discovered in 1957 in Chambers County, Texas, US, and named after the deposit's location.
  • Taaffeite was discovered in 1945. It was named after the discoverer, the Irish gemologist Count Edward Charles Richard Taaffe.
  • Musgravite was discovered in 1967 in the Musgrave Mountains in South Australia and named for the location.
Black Opal – the rarest type of opal
  • Black opal is directly mined in New South Wales, Australia, making it the rarest type of opal. Having a darker composition, this gemstone can be in a variety of colours.[74]
  • Grandidierite was discovered by Antoine François Alfred Lacroix (1863–1948) in 1902 in Tuléar Province, Madagascar. It was named in honor of the French naturalist and explorer Alfred Grandidier (1836–1912).
  • Poudretteite was discovered in 1965 at the Poudrette Quarry in Canada and named after the quarry's owners and operators, the Poudrette family.
  • Serendibite was discovered in Sri Lanka by Sunil Palitha Gunasekera in 1902 and named after Serendib, the old Arabic name for Sri Lanka.
  • Zektzerite was discovered by Bart Cannon in 1968 on Kangaroo Ridge near Washington Pass in Okanogan County, Washington, USA. The mineral was named in honor of mathematician and geologist Jack Zektzer, who presented the material for study in 1976.
[edit]

French singer-songwriter Nolwenn Leroy was inspired by the gemstones for her 2017 album Gemme (meaning gemstone in French) and the single of the same name.[76]

Land of the Lustrous is a Japanese manga and anime series whose main characters are depicted as humanoid jewels.[77][78]

Steven Universe is an American animated television series whose main characters are magical gemstones who project themselves as feminine humanoids.[79]

See also

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References

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A gemstone is any mineral or organic material, such as pearl or , employed for personal adornment, display, or as an artistic object when cut and polished to accentuate its inherent properties of beauty, durability, and rarity. These materials derive their value primarily from geological rarity and physical attributes like hardness—measured on the , where rates 10 as the hardest naturally occurring substance—and optical phenomena such as color, luster, and , which enable techniques to maximize light reflection and refraction. Gemstones form through diverse terrestrial processes, including in for varieties like and , metamorphic alteration yielding emerald and , or sedimentary deposition producing and , often requiring extreme conditions of heat, pressure, and chemical purity that limit their abundance. Historically, gemstone extraction traces to prehistoric eras, with evidence of mining in around 7000 BCE and in by 3000 BCE, evolving into organized operations in antiquity for and symbolism across civilizations. Today, natural gemstones coexist with laboratory-grown synthetics, which replicate the , , and physical traits of their natural counterparts but lack geological provenance, impacting markets through lower costs and ethical sourcing debates over mining practices like child labor in regions such as Africa's artisanal fields. Valuation hinges on the 4Cs framework—carat weight, clarity, color, and cut—supplemented by rarity and origin, with exceptional specimens like or commanding premiums exceeding $10,000 per carat due to empirical scarcity rather than arbitrary classification as "precious" or "semiprecious." While industrial applications leverage for cutting tools owing to their unmatched , the primary demand remains ornamental, underscoring gemstones' enduring role in human as markers of status and aesthetic appreciation grounded in material science.

Definition and Fundamentals

Physical Characteristics and Classification

Gemstones are naturally occurring or laboratory-created materials, typically minerals or organic substances, that possess desirable physical rendering them suitable for cutting, polishing, and use in jewelry or ornamentation. These include , which resists scratching and wear; specific gravity, indicating density relative to water; , which governs bending and brilliance; and other traits such as luster, cleavage, and transparency. Durability demands a Mohs generally exceeding 5 for everyday wear, as softer materials like (Mohs 5.5–6.5) risk abrasion despite aesthetic appeal. Hardness is quantified on the , ranging from 1 () to 10 (), with diamond's exceptional value stemming from its unparalleled resistance to abrasion due to carbon atoms in a tetrahedral lattice. Specific varies widely, from low-density at 2.0–2.2 to dense at 5.0–5.3, aiding identification via . , a measure of refraction, spans 1.5 (e.g., ) to 2.65 (), where higher values enhance sparkle through total internal reflection in faceted cuts. Luster describes surface reflection—adamantine for , vitreous for —while cleavage (planar breakage, as in diamond along octahedral planes) and fracture (irregular, conchoidal in ) influence cutting stability.
GemstoneMohs HardnessSpecific GravityRefractive Index
103.51–3.532.417
93.99–4.031.762–1.770
93.95–4.031.761–1.770
Emerald7.5–82.67–2.781.565–1.602
72.651.544–1.553
Classification systems delineate gemstones by origin, composition, , and utility, prioritizing scientific rigor over historical commerce. Mineralogically, gems align with broader mineral classes: oxides (e.g., , ), silicates (e.g., beryl, ), carbonates (e.g., ), and organics (e.g., pearl from secretions). systems—cubic (), hexagonal (beryl)—further subgroup them, influencing symmetry and optical behavior. Gemologically, classification emphasizes species (e.g., ) and varieties (e.g., for chromium-tinted red ), assessed via physical features like inclusions, , and trace elements for authenticity. Traditional commercial divisions into "precious" (, , , emerald) and "semiprecious" (others) persist but lack scientific basis, originating from 18th-century European rarity perceptions rather than inherent properties; modern valuation hinges on market dynamics, with gems like rivaling emeralds in price per carat. Synthetics, chemically and optically identical to naturals but lab-grown (e.g., via Verneuil flame-fusion for since 1902), are classified separately to distinguish origin without implying inferiority. Imitations (e.g., , ) mimic appearance but diverge in properties like lower RI (cubic zirconia 2.15–2.18 vs. 2.42).

Formation Processes

Gemstones, primarily crystals valued for their beauty and durability, originate through diverse geological processes that facilitate the of elements under specific conditions of , , and . These processes include igneous solidification, metamorphic recrystallization, sedimentary , and hydrothermal fluid interactions, each yielding distinct gem varieties with characteristic inclusions and structures that reflect their formative environments. In igneous processes, gemstones form as cools and solidifies, either intrusively deep within the or extrusively at the surface. Deep-seated intrusive magmas, such as those in pegmatites—coarse-grained igneous rocks formed from volatile-rich residual melts—produce gems like , , and beryl through slow crystallization that allows large crystal growth. Extrusive basalts yield and via rapid cooling, while crystallize at mantle depths of 150–200 km under pressures exceeding 45 kilobars and temperatures of 900–1,300°C, incorporating carbon from reduced fluids or melts rather than biogenic sources like ; these are later erupted via pipes. Metamorphic processes generate gems through regional or contact metamorphism, where existing rocks recrystallize under elevated heat (typically 200–800°C) and from tectonic forces, often without full melting. This transforms minerals into gems like and (corundum) in or , where aluminum oxides concentrate via , or garnets in and mica through solid-state diffusion and reactions. forms under high-, low-temperature conditions in zones, contrasting with nephrite's lower-pressure origins in serpentinized ultramafics. Hydrothermal processes, involving hot aqueous fluids derived from magmatic or metamorphic sources, deposit gems by circulating through fractures and precipitating minerals as temperatures drop (often 100–600°C) and pressures vary. Emeralds, a chromium-bearing variety of beryl, form this way in black shales or pegmatites, with fluids transporting and coloring agents; quartz varieties like and citrine similarly result from silica-rich solutions in veins. Sedimentary processes yield gems via chemical precipitation from surface waters or mechanical concentration through erosion and deposition. Opals form as silica gels dehydrate in cavities, creating play-of-color through microspherules, while turquoise precipitates from copper-rich groundwater in arid environments; amber and jet, though organic, accumulate as fossilized resins or lignite. Biogenic gems, such as pearls, develop through organic secretion: mollusks deposit nacreous layers around irritants, forming spherical structures over years in species like Pinctada oysters.
ProcessKey ConditionsExample Gems
IgneousMagma cooling, high T/P, ,
MetamorphicHeat/pressure recrystallization, ,
HydrothermalFluid precipitationEmerald,
Sedimentary/BiogenicPrecipitation or secretion, pearl

Properties and Aesthetics

Colors, Optical Phenomena, and Durability

Gemstone colors result from the selective absorption of visible light wavelengths, primarily due to electronic transitions influenced by chemical composition, impurities, or structural features. Transition metal ions, such as chromium (Cr³⁺) producing red in corundum (ruby) by absorbing green and blue light, or iron (Fe²⁺/Fe³⁺) yielding blue in sapphire through intervalence charge transfer, serve as key chromophores in allochromatic gems where color derives from trace elements rather than the base chemistry. Idiochromatic gems, like green olivine (peridot) from inherent Fe²⁺ ions, exhibit color intrinsic to their formula, while color centers—electron traps or defects—cause hues in materials such as smoky quartz (brown from Al³⁺-O⁻ holes) or irradiated blue topaz. Physical scattering in opals produces play-of-color via ordered silica spheres diffracting light into spectral bands, independent of pigmentation. Optical phenomena in gemstones arise from interactions between and internal structures, inclusions, or defects, often enhancing aesthetic value beyond uniform color. Asterism manifests as star-like rays (typically six-rayed in from aligned needles reflecting ), visible when cabochon-cut and lit directionally. , or cat's-eye effect, produces a narrow, mobile light band from parallel fibrous inclusions, as in or tiger's-eye . and involve or , yielding shifting rainbow or milky glows, respectively, in materials like Ethiopian opals or moonstones with layered . Labradorescence displays metallic color flashes from twinned lamellae, while schiller creates a metallic sheen from exsolution platelets. These effects demand specific cutting (e.g., cabochons for asterism) to optimize visibility, with rarity tied to precise inclusion orientation. Durability assesses a gemstone's suitability for wear, integrating (scratch resistance), (fracture resistance), and stability (resistance to chemicals, , or light). follows the , with at 10 (resisting all scratches) and at 1, but varies inversely in some cases— (Mohs 6.5–7) excels due to fibrous structure absorbing impacts, unlike brittle emerald (Mohs 7.5–8) prone to cleavage fractures. Stability issues include opal's sensitivity to dehydration cracking or turquoise's porosity leading to color fading from oils; heat-treated gems like sapphires may enhance color but risk if recut improperly. For jewelry, high-durability gems like suit rings, while lower- ones like require protective settings to mitigate basal cleavage risks. Optical effects can influence perceived durability, as fracture-filling in emeralds stabilizes cracks but may introduce vulnerabilities under mechanical stress or cleaning.

Hardness, Cleavage, and Other Physical Traits

The hardness of gemstones is quantified using the , a relative measure of scratch resistance developed by German mineralogist in 1812 and refined by 1824, ranking minerals from 1 (, easily scratched) to 10 (, hardest known natural material). This scale relies on whether one mineral can scratch another, with gem-quality stones typically requiring a rating of at least 5 for basic durability, though jewelry-grade gems often exceed 7 to resist everyday abrasion from materials like (Mohs 7) in or . Diamond's exceptional hardness stems from its tetrahedral carbon lattice, enabling industrial uses beyond adornment, while softer gems like (5.5-6.5) demand protective settings. Cleavage denotes the propensity of a gemstone to fracture along smooth, planar weaknesses aligned with its crystal lattice, arising from uneven atomic bonding that creates directional vulnerabilities. Perfect cleavage, as in diamond's octahedral planes or topaz's basal plane, allows precise splitting under stress but complicates faceting, as impacts can propagate cracks catastrophically; for instance, diamonds are often cleaved rather than sawn to shape rough crystals. Gems lacking cleavage, such as quartz or corundum (ruby and sapphire), instead exhibit fracture—irregular breaks typically conchoidal (curved, shell-like) in isotropic materials—which provides clues for identification and affects polish retention. Imperfect cleavage in beryl (emerald) contributes to its vulnerability, often requiring clarity enhancement to mitigate inclusions along cleavage planes. Additional physical traits influence gemstone handling, valuation, and application. Specific gravity (SG), the ratio of a gem's to water's, aids ; diamond's SG of 3.51-3.53 distinguishes it from simulants like (5.95-6.09), while lighter (2.65) contrasts with denser (5.0-5.3). Tenacity measures resistance to mechanical breakage beyond hardness, with most gems brittle (prone to shattering, e.g., emerald) but exceptions like or (tough due to interlocking fibers) enduring impacts that fracture harder but brittle stones like . Luster, the quality of light reflection from surfaces, ranges from adamantine (brilliant, as in ) to vitreous (glassy, as in beryl), while —external form influenced by growth conditions—varies from prismatic (beryl) to massive (), informing cutting strategies.
GemstoneMohs HardnessCleavageSpecific Gravity/Tenacity Notes
10Perfect3.51-3.53Brittle; conchoidal if cleaved
9None3.95-4.10Brittle; conchoidal
8Perfect3.49-3.57Brittle; prone to chipping
Beryl7.5-8Imperfect2.67-2.85Brittle; often fractured
7None2.63-2.65Tougher than many; conchoidal

Quality and Valuation

Factors Determining Value

The value of a gemstone is primarily influenced by its , rarity, and , with beauty encompassing visual appeal through color, clarity, and cut. For colored gemstones, color dominates valuation, accounting for approximately 60% of a stone's worth, determined by hue, tone, and saturation, where pure, vivid hues like pigeon-blood in rubies command premiums. Uniformity of color is critical, as or uneven distribution reduces appeal and thus value. Clarity affects value based on the type, , and of inclusions, which can impair transparency or ; eye-clean stones without visible flaws fetch higher prices, though some inclusions, if characteristic of origin, may enhance authenticity. Cut quality maximizes light return and color play, with well-proportioned facets increasing brilliance and market desirability, while poor cuts diminish even high-quality rough. Carat weight scales exponentially due to rarity of large, flawless stones, amplifying value nonlinearly. Rarity stems from geological scarcity and limited deposits, elevating prices for gems like or , where supply constraints drive market dynamics. Despite synthetic alternatives, value surges persist in certain gemstones due to synthesis challenges: organic or fossil-based materials like ammolite, derived from biogenic structures, resist authentic replication; extreme formation conditions hinder viable lab production; synthetic optical effects, such as alexandrite's color change, often lack natural intensity; while advances may improve opal, tourmaline, and tanzanite synthetics, red beryl's trace elements and conditions remain prohibitive. influences premiums, as stones from historic locales like sapphires or Burmese rubies trade at multiples of similar-quality alternatives due to perceived superior traits and collector demand. , measured by (Mohs scale) and toughness, ensures wearability; softer gems like opals require careful handling, potentially lowering value in jewelry contexts. Treatments, such as filling or enhancement, must be disclosed, as undisclosed or extensive modifications depreciate value by undermining natural rarity claims; for instance, fracture-filled emeralds exhibit lower resilience and market acceptance than untreated counterparts. Market factors like demand fluctuations and economic conditions further modulate prices, with certification from bodies like the verifying attributes and origin to mitigate risks.

Grading, Certification, and Appraisal Methods

Grading of gemstones, particularly varieties, relies on the four principal factors known as the 4Cs: , clarity, cut, and carat weight, with holding paramount importance unlike in grading where cut often dominates. The (GIA) employs a systematic approach for colored stones, assessing hue (using 31 descriptors), tone (lightness from 2 to 8 on a 0-10 scale), and saturation (vividness from grayish to vivid), which collectively determine vibrancy and thus value. Clarity evaluates internal inclusions and external blemishes, often categorized descriptively as eye-clean or with visible flaws under 10x magnification, varying by gem type (e.g., Type I gems like aquamarine aim for minimal inclusions, while Type III like emerald tolerate more). Cut assesses proportions, , and polish to maximize return and appeal, though standards are less rigid for fancy shapes in colored stones compared to round brilliants. Carat weight measures size, but enhancements like or fracture filling must be factored in, as undisclosed treatments can inflate perceived quality. Certification involves independent gemological laboratories issuing reports that verify species, origin (where determinable via or inclusion ), treatments, and basic quality metrics, ensuring authenticity against synthetics or misrepresentations. The stands as the most rigorous and widely accepted authority, utilizing standardized protocols developed since the 1950s, with reports influencing resale values due to their conservative grading. Alternatives like the American Gem Society (AGS) emphasize cut performance with light-based metrics, while the (IGI) offers faster, more lenient assessments suitable for commercial or lab-grown stones but less stringent for natural gems. Laboratories detect treatments via , UV , or advanced tools like , but origin certification remains probabilistic, with disclosing limitations for ambiguous cases. Appraisal methods integrate graded attributes with market data to estimate value for purposes such as (replacement ), market ( comparables), or , conducted by appraisers trained in and adhering to standards from bodies like the International Society of Appraisers (ISA). The process entails physical examination using loupes, refractometers, and scales; identification of enhancements (e.g., oiling in emeralds reduces value by 10-30% if not permanent); and comparison to recent sales from sources like houses or dealer networks, adjusted for rarity, , and economic factors. Appraisers must disclose methodologies and avoid conflicts, with GIA-trained professionals preferred for precision, as subjective elements like fashion trends can cause 20-50% value fluctuations absent empirical grading.

Extraction and Processing

Mining Techniques and Sources

Gemstones are extracted from primary deposits, where crystals form and remain embedded in their original host rock such as pegmatites, metamorphic zones, or igneous pipes, and secondary deposits, where transports gems into alluvial gravels, rivers, or marine sediments, concentrating them through natural sorting processes. Primary deposits predominate for emeralds and certain sapphires, while rubies and many sapphires occur more frequently in secondary alluvial settings, which often yield higher concentrations but variable quality due to abrasion during transport. Hard-rock mining techniques for primary deposits involve open-pit excavation for shallow ores, removing with heavy machinery before to fracture the host rock, followed by crushing and screening to liberate gems. Underground methods, used for deeper deposits, employ tunneling, , and to access veins, as seen in Colombian emerald mines where narrow veins in are targeted. for secondary deposits relies on separation, including manual panning, boxes, or mechanized to process layers, which is less energy-intensive but labor-dependent and prone to exhausting small pockets rapidly. Artisanal operations dominate colored gem extraction, using hand tools for pit digging in floodplains or streambeds, whereas industrial-scale mining with crushers and separators applies to high-volume kimberlites. Diamonds primarily originate from primary kimberlite pipes, volcanic conduits that deliver mantle xenoliths containing diamonds to the surface; open-pit mining exposes these pipes by stripping 100-500 meters of overburden, while underground block caving extracts deeper ores, as at South Africa's Venetia mine reaching over 1,000 meters. Alluvial diamonds, eroded from kimberlites, are recovered from coastal terraces or riverbeds via sieving and hydraulic methods. In 2024, Russia produced 37.3 million carats of rough diamonds, comprising 32% of global volume, primarily from Siberian kimberlites like Mir and Udachny, followed by Botswana (24 million carats from open-pit and underground operations) and Canada. Emeralds derive almost exclusively from primary hydrothermal vein deposits in or pegmatites; Colombia supplies over 70% of fine gems from and Chivor districts, mined via underground adits and explosives since the , while Zambia's Kagem open-pit yields commercial volumes from schist-hosted veins discovered in 1971. Rubies and sapphires, varieties, form in metamorphic marbles or ; Myanmar's primary deposits use small-scale tunneling for marble-hosted rubies, though sanctions have shifted production to Mozambique's Montepuez alluvial gravels, mined industrially since 2010 with 4-5 million carats annually. Sapphires favor secondary deposits in Sri Lanka's gem gravels, extracted by mechanized bucket-line or manual pits reaching 50 meters, and Australia's primary basalt pipes via open-pit methods.
GemstonePrimary Techniques/SourcesSecondary/Alluvial SourcesLeading Producers (Recent Data)
DiamondOpen-pit/underground in kimberlite pipes (, )Riverbed (, ) (37.3M carats, 2024),
EmeraldUnderground veining in ( )Rare; mostly primary (>70% fine gems), (Kagem pit)
RubyTunneling in ( )Gravel panning ( Montepuez) (4-5M carats/year),
SapphireOpen-pit in () gravels (), ,

Cutting, Polishing, and Enhancement Treatments

Gemstone cutting involves shaping rough stones into finished forms to maximize beauty, durability, and value, primarily through or techniques. creates flat, polished surfaces (facets) to enhance reflection and , originating in the with early cuts like and table, evolving to modern round brilliant cuts that return up to 99% of incident under ideal conditions. The process begins with planning, where a assesses the rough stone's shape, inclusions, and color zoning to determine the optimal cut, often using software for precision in high-value gems like , where yield can be as low as 1-2% of rough weight. Cutting employs sawing, bruting (pre-forming), and grinding on a dop stick against a rotating lap, with or scaifes for harder materials; errors can reduce value by 50% or more due to poor or polish. cutting, suited for opaque or pleochroic gems like or star sapphires, involves dome-shaped smoothing without facets to highlight phenomena like asterism, using progressively finer grits from 100 to 1200 mesh. Polishing follows cutting to achieve a high-luster finish, removing saw marks and refining facets through progressive abrasion with compounds or oxide laps, typically in grades from 3,000 to 100,000 grit for mirror-like surfaces on gems like . The process demands precise control of lap speed (around 3,000-5,000 RPM) and pressure to avoid undercutting or burning, with and often requiring extended polishing times due to their 9 Mohs hardness, sometimes exceeding 10 hours per stone. Automated faceting machines, introduced in the , have increased efficiency for mass-produced cuts like those in , but hand- remains essential for fine gems to ensure angular precision within 0.5 degrees for optimal scintillation. Enhancement treatments modify gem properties post-cutting to improve appearance, with common methods including for sapphires (heating to 1,200-1,800°C to dissolve inclusions and enhance color, affecting up to 90% of market stones) and oiling or filling for emeralds to mask fractures, where cedarwood or Opticon stabilizes clarity but may fade over time. induces color in diamonds (e.g., green hues via electron bombardment) or , requiring disclosure as treated gems command 20-50% lower prices than untreated equivalents. Fracture filling in emeralds, using substances like green-tinted , can boost apparent clarity from poor to good, but the notes that such treatments are not permanent and detectable under , with ethical standards mandating buyer disclosure to prevent market deception. treatments, where colorants like are heated into surfaces (up to 0.5mm depth), simulate natural hues but are confined to shallow layers, leading to regulatory scrutiny from bodies like the for potential misleading uniformity. While enhancements expand supply—e.g., heat-treated citrine from comprising most commercial yellow —they raise authenticity debates, as untreated gems retain premiums based on rarity, with independent labs like certifying treatment status via and .

Historical Context

Ancient Origins and Early Trade

The use of gemstones for adornment and symbolic purposes dates to at least 4000 BCE in , where archaeological evidence reveals jewelry incorporating beads and inlays, often combined with and . In , contemporaneous artifacts from Sumerian sites, such as cylinder seals and amulets, feature alongside local , indicating early recognition of gemstones' aesthetic and ritual value beyond mere decoration. These materials were selected for their durability and vivid colors, with lapis prized for its deep blue hue evoking celestial or divine qualities in both cultures. Lapis lazuli, sourced primarily from mines in , —active since approximately 7000 BCE—represents one of the earliest instances of long-distance gemstone trade, spanning over 2,000 kilometers to reach by 2500 BCE and shortly thereafter. Trade routes likely followed overland paths through and shortugai outposts in northern , facilitating exchange with Mesopotamian merchants who valued it for elite burial goods and temple inlays, as evidenced by artifacts from . Egyptian pharaohs, such as , incorporated imported lapis into funerary masks and pectorals, underscoring its status as a luxury import symbolizing rarity and power, obtained via intermediaries rather than direct . In , local sourcing supplemented imports; was extracted from mines as early as (c. 2686–2181 BCE), used extensively in royal jewelry like broad collars and scarabs for its protective associations. , a reddish , was abundant from eastern desert quarries and traded regionally for amulets invoking vitality, while emeralds from Upper Egypt's Nubian deposits—known later as "Cleopatra's Mines"—appeared in Ptolemaic-era pieces, though earlier green beryls served similar roles. Mesopotamian trade networks extended these exchanges, importing from the Indus Valley and exporting or , establishing gemstones as commodities in reciprocal systems that predated formalized currency. By the second millennium BCE, these trade patterns influenced broader Near Eastern and Mediterranean civilizations, with lapis reaching the Indus Valley and early Greek sites via intermediary ports, though direct evidence remains sparse. The value derived from scarcity and craftsmanship, as raw nodules were roughly shaped en route, highlighting causal links between geological rarity, transportation challenges, and cultural prestige rather than inherent mystical properties unsubstantiated by empirical record.

Modern Developments and Technological Advances

The 20th century introduced mechanized tools to gemstone processing, beginning with the 1891 invention of the electric bruting machine, which automated the rounding of rough prior to and enabled commercial production of round brilliant cuts. This was complemented by Marcel Tolkowsky's 1919 publication of Diamond Design, which mathematically optimized proportions for maximum brilliance and fire in cut . Mid-century innovations included the jam peg machine, developed around the 1950s, which enhanced precision and efficiency in cutting facets on various gemstones through hand-cranked or motorized dop systems. By the late , (CAD) and computer (CNC) systems transformed cutting and polishing, permitting intricate designs, consistent quality, and reduced waste from rough stones. These technologies allowed lapidaries to scan rough material in 3D and simulate cuts for optimal yield, a practice refined in the and . In , advances such as block caving techniques emerged mid-century for deep extraction, enabling large-scale recovery from pipes while minimizing surface disruption compared to earlier open-pit methods. Gemstone enhancement treatments also evolved technologically, with introduced in the late to create micro-channels in for bleaching dark inclusions, thereby improving apparent clarity grades. This method, pioneered by figures like Zvi Yehuda and Louis Perlman, targeted and other opaque flaws, though it requires disclosure due to potential structural risks. Concurrently, controlled and treatments became standardized for color stabilization in gems like sapphires and , building on earlier practices but leveraging precise equipment for reproducibility. These developments increased market supply of high-quality natural gems while raising debates over disclosure and value retention.

Synthetic and Laboratory-Created Gemstones

Production Techniques

Synthetic gemstones are produced through controlled laboratory processes that replicate the chemical composition and of natural gems, often at lower cost and with fewer impurities. Major techniques include flame fusion, , flux growth, pulling methods, and specialized processes for diamonds such as high-pressure high-temperature (HPHT) and (CVD). These methods emerged in the early , enabling commercial production for jewelry and industrial uses. The , also known as the , was the first commercially viable technique for synthetic gems, developed by French Auguste Verneuil in 1902. Powdered alumina (for like or ) is fed through an exceeding 2000°C, melting and depositing onto a rotating to form a cylindrical boule that is later cut into facets. This rapid method produces colorless to colored varieties but often lacks natural-like inclusions, making synthetics identifiable under magnification. It remains widely used for synthetic and due to its efficiency and scalability. Hydrothermal synthesis mimics natural formation by dissolving nutrient materials in a water-based under (up to 2000 atm) and (300–600°C) in an , allowing crystals to precipitate onto a over weeks or months. Commercialized in the , it is essential for synthetic , emeralds, and beryls, producing gems with growth features resembling natural hydrothermal deposits, such as fluid inclusions. The process is energy-intensive and slow, limiting it to high-value gems where optical quality is paramount. Flux growth involves dissolving gem nutrients in a molten (e.g., for emeralds) at temperatures around 800–1200°C, followed by slow cooling to promote . Pioneered in for synthetic rubies and emeralds, it yields crystals with flux inclusions that can mimic natural ones, enhancing realism, though remnants of flux may remain as diagnostic features. This method suits gems requiring complex chemistry, like or alexandrite. The Czochralski pulling method, adapted from semiconductor production, melts gem material in a and slowly withdraws a while rotating it, forming a large . Used since the 1950s for synthetic sapphires, rubies, and alexandrites, it produces high-purity up to several kilograms, ideal for optical and gem applications, with fewer defects than flame fusion. For diamonds, HPHT synthesis, developed commercially in the 1950s by , subjects a carbon source (e.g., ) and diamond seed to pressures of 5–6 GPa and temperatures of 1300–1600°C in a press, crystallizing carbon into diamond lattice over days. This yields Type IIa diamonds resembling natural ones but often with metallic flux inclusions. CVD, commercialized for gems in the 1990s, deposits carbon from a plasma-activated gas (typically 1–5% in ) onto a diamond seed in a at 700–1000°C and low pressure, growing thin films layer by layer up to several carats. CVD produces near-colorless diamonds with layered strain patterns, suitable for colorless gems, though post-growth treatments may be needed for clarity. Both methods achieve gem-quality diamonds chemically identical to mined ones, with HPHT favoring colored varieties and CVD excelling in purity.

Types, Characteristics, and Market Role

Synthetic gemstones are categorized by their production methods, which replicate natural formation processes under controlled conditions to yield materials chemically and structurally identical to mined counterparts. The flame-fusion (Verneuil) process, developed in , melts powdered alumina and pulls it into for varieties like and , producing over 90% of synthetic used commercially. , mimicking geological vein formation with high-pressure aqueous solutions, yields (since the 1940s for industrial use) and emerald, often incorporating trace elements for color. Flux-growth methods dissolve precursors in molten salts to crystallize gems like alexandrite, , and early emeralds, though slower and costlier. For , high-pressure high-temperature (HPHT) replicates mantle conditions, while (CVD) grows layers from methane gas on substrates, enabling larger, inclusion-free stones. Other techniques include the Czochralski pulling method for garnets and alexandrite, and skull melting for zirconia, expanding synthetics beyond traditional gems to simulants like . Common synthetic types encompass (, ), beryl (emerald), , varieties (, citrine), , and , with production scaled for both jewelry and industry.
Production MethodKey ProcessPrimary Gems Produced
Flame Fusion (Verneuil)Powder melted and dripped onto (ruby, ),
HydrothermalHigh-pressure hot water solutions, emerald, aquamarine
Flux GrowthMolten flux dissolves and recrystallizes precursorsEmerald, , alexandrite
HPHTExtreme pressure and temperature from carbon sources
CVDGas-phase deposition on substrate, sometimes
Laboratory-created gemstones exhibit identical chemical composition, refractive indices, and hardness to natural ones—e.g., synthetic diamonds score 10 on Mohs scale like mined diamonds—allowing seamless substitution in most applications. Differences arise in microstructure: synthetics often lack natural inclusions (e.g., fingerprints or feathers), appearing flawlessly uniform, but may show diagnostic artifacts like gas bubbles in flux-grown stones or metallic flux remnants in emeralds, detectable via magnification or spectroscopy. Color zoning in naturals from uneven impurities contrasts with synthetics' consistent pigmentation, though both can be enhanced post-production. These traits enable gemologists to distinguish origins, preserving value differentiation. In the market, synthetics serve as economical alternatives, comprising 65% of polished supply in some segments and reducing costs by 70-90% versus naturals, appealing to budget-conscious consumers and ethical buyers avoiding impacts. The global synthetic gemstone market reached $23.36 billion in 2024, projected to grow to $24.2 billion in at 3.6% CAGR, driven by jewelry demand and industrial uses like abrasives. Lab-grown diamonds alone hit $25.68 billion in 2024, capturing 21.3% of total by , though oversupply from producers like has halved wholesale prices since 2022, shifting focus to volume over . Beyond diamonds, synthetics like dominate watch crystals and optics, while colored varieties fill gaps in rare natural supplies, enhancing accessibility without diluting demand for high-end naturals.

Debates: Natural versus Synthetic

Economic and Rarity Arguments

Proponents of natural gemstones argue that their economic value stems from genuine , as processes limit supply to finite deposits formed over millions of years, enabling and potential appreciation as an asset. In contrast, synthetic gemstones, produced via scalable laboratory methods like or flux growth, face no such natural constraints, allowing unlimited output that depresses prices and resale values over time. For instance, natural have historically retained portions of their value due to controlled supply chains, whereas lab-grown equivalents, which comprised a growing by 2023, saw prices decline by up to 70% since 2019 amid surging production. This disparity extends to colored gemstones like rubies and sapphires, where natural specimens from specific locales command premiums reflecting extraction costs, rarity, and provenance, often exceeding synthetic counterparts by factors of 10 or more. Synthetic production lowers , enabling mass-market affordability but eroding the luxury segment's exclusivity; , a dominant natural producer, ceased jewelry-grade lab-grown output in 2024, citing unsustainable economics for synthetics in high-end applications due to rapid . Industry analyses indicate that while synthetics capture budget-conscious demand—reducing overall market prices for natural stones by 20-30% in recent years—their lack of undermines long-term holding value, as unlimited supply incentivizes further price erosion. Rarity arguments hinge on causal distinctions: natural gemstones embody irreplaceable terrestrial history, with verifiable origins enhancing collectible appeal and cultural significance, whereas synthetics, despite optical and chemical equivalence, derive value solely from manufacturing efficiency without inherent geological limitation. Empirical from gem markets show natural stones outperforming synthetics in auctions and resale, as buyers prioritize documented rarity over replicated abundance; for example, rare varieties like or high-quality sustain elevated prices due to the absence of commercially viable synthetic analogs that fully replicate their properties—red beryl's vivid hue depends on rare trace elements like manganese, with experimental hydrothermal synthetics not in commercial production, while ammolite's iridescence stems from fossilized biogenic structures resistant to authentic synthesis; synthetic alexandrite, though exhibiting color change, often fails to match the intensity of natural specimens. Although advancing technology may yield breakthroughs for opal, tourmaline, or tanzanite, projections indicate that gems formed under extreme conditions or with organic origins, such as certain fossil-based or trace-element-unique varieties, will remain difficult to duplicate indistinguishably, preserving natural premiums. Critics of synthetics contend that equating them to naturals ignores supply dynamics—laboratory output can scale exponentially with technological advances, potentially collapsing segments like engagement rings where perceived permanence is key, as projected for lab-grown diamonds by 2025. Conversely, natural gem rarity, tied to unpredictable yields, fosters economic resilience against , though vulnerable to geopolitical disruptions in source regions.

Environmental and Ethical Realities

Gemstone for natural specimens frequently results in significant , including , , , and , particularly in regions like and where colored gems such as sapphires and emeralds are extracted through open-pit and alluvial methods. from chemical runoff and further exacerbates local damage, with operations often leading to unfilled pits that pose flooding risks and long-term alteration. In contrast, synthetic gem production avoids terrestrial disruption but incurs high energy demands; for instance, for can consume up to 250-500 kWh per carat, contributing to unless powered by renewables. Lifecycle analyses indicate that lab-grown emit as little as 0.028 grams of CO2 equivalents per carat when using clean energy, far below 's combined impacts of and emissions, though this advantage diminishes with fossil fuel-dependent facilities. Ethically, natural gem sourcing is marred by labor abuses, including and forced labor in artisanal mines prevalent in and , where workers face hazardous conditions without protective gear, leading to health risks from dust and chemical exposure. Conflict minerals, such as those from eastern Democratic Republic of Congo, have historically funded armed groups through gem trades beyond diamonds, evading comprehensive certification like the Kimberley Process and perpetuating violence and violations. Synthetic production circumvents these issues by occurring in regulated facilities, reducing risks of exploitation and conflict financing, though isolated reports of substandard factory conditions in unregulated synthetic operations underscore the need for verification. Overall, while synthetics offer ethical mitigation, natural mining's variability—from responsible large-scale operations to pervasive artisanal abuses—highlights the importance of traceability over blanket preferences.

Industry Dynamics

Global Supply Chains and Economics

The global gemstone encompasses extraction, rough sorting, cutting and , trading, and integration into jewelry, with distinct paths for diamonds and gemstones. Diamonds follow a more industrialized model dominated by large-scale mining operations, primarily in (leading producer with significant output from ), Botswana, , and , accounting for the bulk of production. Rough diamonds are typically sold through sight-holder systems by major miners like and , then shipped to cutting centers, where processes over 90% of the world's diamonds by volume, employing millions in Surat's polishing clusters. Trading hubs such as , , and facilitate auctions and bourses, before final distribution to manufacturers and retailers, often in the United States, , and . Colored gemstones, including emeralds, rubies, and sapphires, originate from artisanal and small-scale mining in diverse locales, with dominating emeralds (over 70% of global supply from mines), and for rubies, and , , and for sapphires. Unlike , these chains involve fragmented networks of miners, local dealers, and exporters, with processing concentrated in and for and , leading to challenges due to multiple intermediaries and informal trade. Exports flow to markets in the US, , and , but smuggling and weak governance in producer countries like exacerbate illicit flows, estimated at 20-30% of ruby trade. Economically, the gemstone sector generated approximately $25.8 billion in trade value in 2023, with global market estimates for natural gemstones ranging from $34 billion to $101 billion in 2024, driven by (over 70% of value) and rising demand for stones amid lab-grown pressures. Production supports millions of jobs, particularly in (1.5 million in polishing) and African regions, contributing multiplier effects through ancillary services and taxes, though benefits are unevenly distributed due to low miner royalties (often under 5% of value). Sanctions on Russian (post-2022 invasion) and traceability initiatives have disrupted chains, reducing rough exports by 15-20% in affected flows, while boosting alternative producers like .
Gem TypeTop Producers (Share/Output)Key Economic Notes
DiamondsRussia (~30%), Botswana (~25%), Canada (~12%)$80B+ annual rough value; India exports $24B+ polished (2021 data)
EmeraldsColombia (70%+), ZambiaArtisanal focus; limited formal revenue tracking
RubiesMyanmar (50%+ quality), MozambiqueHigh smuggling; $500M+ informal trade estimates
SapphiresSri Lanka, Madagascar, AustraliaProcessing hubs add 20-30% value uplift
Disruptions from geopolitical tensions and synthetic alternatives underscore vulnerabilities, yet the sector's resilience stems from inelastic luxury demand, with gem imports surging 136% from 2020-2024 in the .

Socioeconomic Contributions and Challenges

The gemstone industry generates substantial economic value, with the global market estimated at USD 101.73 billion in , driven primarily by demand for and stones in jewelry and sectors. This trade supports over 10 million jobs worldwide, encompassing , cutting, , and retail activities, particularly in developing economies where artisanal and small-scale operations predominate. In regions such as (e.g., , ) and (e.g., for work), gemstone extraction contributes to foreign exchange earnings, government revenues via royalties and taxes, and local development including roads, schools, and healthcare facilities. These contributions foster alleviation in rural communities, where alternatives are scarce, enabling remittances and ancillary businesses like transportation and trading. However, the industry's structure often concentrates wealth in downstream value addition—such as polishing in or jewelry manufacturing in urban centers—leaving upstream miners with minimal shares of the final product value, which can exceed 90% markup from rough stone to finished gem. Socioeconomic challenges persist due to the prevalence of informal, unregulated artisanal mining, which accounts for approximately 75% of global gemstone production and exposes workers to hazardous conditions including cave-ins, toxic dust inhalation, and inadequate protective equipment. Labor exploitation is widespread, with reports of child labor in gem polishing units in India and low-wage, insecure employment in ruby and sapphire mines across Africa and Asia, where miners earn fractions of the stones' eventual market price amid volatile demand. In conflict-prone areas, gemstone revenues have historically funded armed groups, exacerbating instability despite initiatives like the Kimberley Process for , which do not fully extend to colored gems lacking similar frameworks. Economic dependency on gem booms leads to boom-bust cycles, resource curses, and social strains such as increased migration, resource , and disparities in labor roles, underscoring the need for formalization and equitable benefit distribution to mitigate these risks. The market for laboratory-grown gemstones, particularly diamonds, expanded significantly in the early 2020s, with global sales reaching over $27.2 billion in 2023, driven by chemical vapor deposition (CVD) and high-pressure high-temperature (HPHT) methods that replicate natural formation processes at scale. This growth reflected production efficiencies, as CVD lab-grown diamond values rose from $12.75 billion in 2024 to a projected $13.81 billion in 2025, enabling prices 80-85% lower than natural equivalents by mid-decade. Innovations extended beyond diamonds to colored stones, including lab-created sapphires, rubies, and emeralds, which offered consistent quality and reduced environmental impacts compared to mining-dependent supplies. Authentication technologies advanced with AI integration and portable spectrometry, allowing non-destructive (e.g., via EDXRF) to detect treatments or synthetics, with systems processing up to 500 stones daily by 2025. Blockchain-based emerged as a standard for verifying from mine or lab to market, addressing in high-value trades like Burmese rubies, where monitoring and digital certificates enhanced transparency. These tools countered rising synthetic infiltration, as industry reports noted lab-grown stones comprising an estimated 20% of supply by 2025, pressuring natural gem pricing while bolstering consumer trust in certified pieces. Colored gemstone demand surged, with imports climbing 136% from 2020 to 2024, favoring vivid varieties like Paraiba tourmaline and amid preferences for ethical sourcing over traditional . Sustainability innovations included refined cutting algorithms and AI-optimized faceting for minimal material waste, alongside platforms expanding access to certified, traceable stones. Overall market projections indicated gemstones reaching $33.43 billion in 2025, growing at 6.7% CAGR through the decade, fueled by these technological shifts rather than new geological finds, which remained sparse.

Rare Gemstones and Significance

Exemplary Rare Varieties

Red beryl, also known as bixbite, represents one of the rarest gem varieties due to its limited geological formation requiring specific conditions of high manganese content, rhyolite-hosted deposits, and elevated temperatures. Discovered in 1904 in Utah, USA, commercial mining began in 1990 at the Ruby-Violet mine near Wah Wah Mountains, yielding an estimated total production of over 60,000 carats in the subsequent 25 years, with only about 10% suitable for faceting. One crystal occurs for every 150,000 diamonds mined, underscoring its scarcity relative to more common gems. Painite exemplifies extreme rarity among gem minerals, with fewer than a few hundred crystals documented worldwide, primarily from Myanmar's region where it formed under unique boron-zirconium interactions. Initially identified in , only about two dozen gem-quality specimens exist, often as small, included crystals exhibiting reddish-brown hues due to trace and . Its composition, CaZrAl9O15(BO3), resists common gem formation processes, limiting facetable material to exceptional finds. Taaffeite stands out for its pleochroism and double refraction, distinguishing it from similar , with known specimens numbering under 50 high-quality examples despite discoveries in , , and . Named after Richard Taaffe who identified it in 1945, this beryllium-magnesium-aluminum oxide gem displays violet to pink colors from iron impurities and ranks 8-8.5 on the for durability. Its formation in high-pressure metamorphic environments contributes to yields far below production, estimated at a million times rarer in facetable form. Benitoite, California's state gem since 1985, occurs almost exclusively in San Benito County deposits, with total output limited to a few thousand carats of facetable material since , featuring intense blue under UV light from its barium-titanium structure. Rarity stems from its narrow hydrothermal vein association, rendering crystals above 1 carat exceptional and commanding premiums in collector markets.

Cultural, Symbolic, and Collectible Value

Gemstones have held profound cultural significance across civilizations, often embodying power, protection, and divine favor. In and , they were incorporated into amulets and seals for safeguarding against evil, with symbolizing the heavens and eternity in royal tombs dating back to 3000 BCE. In Persian culture, from Neyshabur has carried spiritual connotations of victory and triumph since antiquity, influencing its use in talismans and architecture. Similarly, in Chinese tradition represents purity and moral integrity, woven into imperial artifacts and rituals for over 5,000 years, with its value escalating due to scarcity and craftsmanship rather than mere aesthetics. Symbolically, gemstones evoke attributes tied to color, rarity, and lore, varying by region. Rubies, revered in ancient as drops of divine blood, denote passion and vitality, a belief echoed in Burmese traditions where they were embedded in armor for battlefield protection. Emeralds symbolize renewal and hope across Mesoamerican and European cultures, linked to fertility deities like the Aztec's Quetzalcoatl. , while enduring modern associations with unbreakable love—promoted through 20th-century campaigns—held protective symbolism in antiquity, believed by Romans to ward off madness when worn. These meanings stem from observational correlations between stone properties and human experiences, such as the unyielding hardness of mirroring fidelity, though empirical validation remains absent beyond psychological effects. The tradition formalizes monthly symbolism, originating from the biblical High Priest's in Exodus (circa 13th century BCE) featuring 12 stones for Israel's tribes, later adapted by 1st-century Jewish historian to zodiac signs. Standardized in 1912 by U.S. jewelers, it assigns gems like January's for fidelity or July's for vitality, fostering personal talismanic use despite lacking scientific basis; sales data indicate heightened demand during astrological alignments, blending ancient ritual with commercial appeal. As collectibles, rare gemstones command premium prices at auctions, driven by verifiable scarcity and provenance over speculative lore. The 59.60-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond, dubbed the Pink Star, fetched $71.2 million at Sotheby's Hong Kong in 2017, setting a per-carat record at $1.19 million due to its Type IIa purity and Burmese origin. A 55.22-carat Burmese ruby sold for $34.8 million at Sotheby's in 2023, underscoring demand for unheated, pigeon-blood specimens amid depleting mines. Christie's Geneva auction in June 2025 realized $87.7 million for various-owner jewels, 100% sold, highlighting institutional confidence in authenticated rares like pinks and blues despite synthetic alternatives eroding baseline values. Collectors prioritize GIA-graded stones for transparency, with returns volatile—outpacing inflation in booms but vulnerable to economic downturns—positioning them as tangible assets akin to art, not guaranteed hedges.

References

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