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Hair
Cross section of a human hair strand
Scanning electron microscopy image of Merino wool (top) and human hair (bottom) showing keratin scales
Details
SystemIntegumentary system
Identifiers
Latincapillum
MeSHD006197
TA98A16.0.00.014
TA27053
THH3.12.00.3.02001
FMA53667
Anatomical terminology

Hair is a protein filament that grows from follicles found in the dermis. Hair is one of the defining characteristics of mammals. The human body, apart from areas of glabrous skin, is covered in follicles which produce thick terminal and fine vellus hair. Most common interest in hair is focused on hair growth, hair types, and hair care, but hair is also an important biomaterial primarily composed of protein, notably alpha-keratin.

Attitudes towards different forms of hair, such as hairstyles and hair removal, vary widely across different cultures and historical periods, but it is often used to indicate a person's personal beliefs or social position, such as their age, gender, or religion.[1]

Overview

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Meaning

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Anatomy of the hair shaft and bulb.

The word "hair" usually refers to two distinct structures:

  1. the part beneath the skin, called the hair follicle, or, when pulled from the skin, the bulb or root. This organ is located in the dermis and maintains stem cells, which not only re-grow the hair after it falls out, but also are recruited to regrow skin after a wound.[2]
  2. the hair shaft, which is the hard filamentous part that extends above the skin surface. It is made of multi-layered keratinized (dead) flat cells whose rope-like filaments provide structure and strength to it. The protein called keratin makes up most of its volume. A cross section of the hair shaft may be divided roughly into three zones.

Hair fibers have a structure consisting of several layers, starting from the outside:

  1. the cuticle, which consists of several layers of flat, thin cells laid out overlapping one another as roof shingles
  2. the cortex, which contains the keratin bundles in cell structures that remain roughly rod-like
  3. the medulla, a disorganized and open area at the fiber's center[3]

Etymology

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The word "hair" is derived from Middle English: heer and hêr, in turn derived from Old English: hǽr and hér, with influence from Old Norse: hár. Both the Old English and Old Norse words derive from Proto-Germanic: *hēran and are related to terms for hair in other Germanic languages such as Swedish: hår, Dutch and German: haar, and Old Frisian: her.[4][5] The now broadly obsolete word "fax" refers specifically to head hair and is found in compounds such as Fairfax and Halifax. It is derived from Old English: feax and is cognate with terms such as Old Norse and Norwegian: fax.[6]

Description

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Hair follicle of Felidae.

Each strand of hair is made up of the medulla, cortex, and cuticle.[7] The innermost region, the medulla, is an open and unstructured region that is not always present.[8] The highly structural and organized cortex, or second of three layers of the hair, is the primary source of mechanical strength and water uptake. The cortex contains melanin, which colors the fiber based on the number, distribution and types of melanin granules. The melanin may be evenly spaced or cluster around the edges of the hair.[9] The shape of the follicle determines the shape of the cortex, and the shape of the fiber is related to how straight or curly the hair is. People with straight hair have round hair fibers. Oval and other shaped fibers are generally more wavy or curly. The cuticle is the outer covering. Its complex structure slides as the hair swells and is covered with a single molecular layer of lipid that makes the hair repel water.[7] The diameter of human hair varies from 0.017 to 0.18 millimeters (0.00067 to 0.00709 in).[10] Some of these characteristics in humans' head hair vary by race: people of mostly African ancestry tend to have hair with a diameter of 60–90 μm and a flat cross-section, while people of mostly European or Middle Eastern ancestry tend to have hair with a diameter of 70–100 μm and an oval cross-section, and people of mostly Asian or Native American ancestry tend to have hair with a diameter of 90–120 μm and a round cross-section.[9] There are roughly two million small, tubular glands and sweat glands that produce watery fluids that cool the body by evaporation. The glands at the opening of the hair produce a fatty secretion that lubricates the hair.[11]

Hair growth begins inside the hair follicle. The only "living" portion of the hair is found in the follicle. The hair that is visible is the hair shaft, which exhibits no biochemical activity and is considered "dead". The base of a hair's root (the "bulb") contains the cells that produce the hair shaft.[12] Other structures of the hair follicle include the oil producing sebaceous gland which lubricates the hair and the arrector pili muscles, which are responsible for causing hairs to stand up. In humans with little body hair, the effect results in goose bumps.

Root of the hair

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Root of the hair
Section of skin, showing the epidermis and dermis; a hair in its follicle; the arrector pili muscle; sebaceous glands.
Details
Identifiers
Latinradix pili
MeSHD006197
TA98A16.0.00.014
TA27053
THH3.12.00.3.02001
FMA53667
Anatomical terminology

The root of the hair ends in an enlargement, the hair bulb, which is whiter in color and softer in texture than the shaft and is lodged in a follicular involution of the epidermis called the hair follicle. The bulb of hair consists of fibrous connective tissue, glassy membrane, external root sheath, internal root sheath composed of epithelium stratum (Henle's layer) and granular stratum (Huxley's layer), cuticle, cortex and medulla.[13]

Natural color

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Human hair contains melanin which provides dark coloration and protection from UV radiation. Human hair can absorb and emit light across a wide range of wavelengths. The image above depicts melanin autofluorescence at 365-400 nm excitation from a strand of dark brown human hair.
A girl with reddish brown hair

All natural hair colors are the result of two types of hair pigments. Both of these pigments are melanin types, produced inside the hair follicle and packed into granules found in the fibers. Eumelanin is the dominant pigment in brown hair and black hair, while pheomelanin is dominant in red hair. Blond hair is the result of having little pigmentation in the hair strand. Gray hair occurs when melanin production decreases or stops, while poliosis is white hair (and often the skin to which the hair is attached), typically in spots that never possessed melanin at all, or ceased for natural reasons, generally genetic, in the first years of life.

Human hair growth

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Hair grows everywhere on the external body except for mucous membranes and glabrous skin, such as that found on the palms of the hands, soles of the feet, and lips. The body has different types of hair, including vellus hair and androgenic hair, each with its own type of cellular construction. The different construction gives the hair unique characteristics, serving specific purposes, mainly, warmth and protection.

Hair-follicle cycling
Hair grows at different speeds and different lengths. Its composition causes different colors and textures, which influence how long the hair strands grow.
Marianne Ernst, a German "Long hair model".

The three stages of hair growth are the anagen, catagen, and telogen phases. Each strand of hair on the human body is at its own stage of development. Once the cycle is complete, it restarts and a new strand of hair begins to form. The growth rate of hair varies from individual to individual depending on their age, genetic predisposition and a number of environmental factors.[14] It is commonly stated that hair grows about 1 cm per month on average; however reality is more complex, since not all hair grows at once. Scalp hair was reported to grow between 0.6 cm and 3.36 cm per month. The growth rate of scalp hair somewhat depends on age (hair tends to grow more slowly with age), sex, and ethnicity.[15] Thicker hair (>60 μm) grows generally faster (11.4 mm per month) than thinner (20-30 μm) hair (7.6 mm per month).[16][17]

It was previously thought that Caucasian hair grew more quickly than Asian hair and that the growth rate of women's hair was faster than that of men.[15] However, more recent research has shown that the growth rate of hair in men and women does not significantly differ[18] and that the hair of Chinese people grew more quickly than the hair of French Caucasians and West and Central Africans.[19] The quantity of hair hovers in a certain range depends on hair colour.[20][21] An average blonde person has 150,000 hairs, a brown-haired person has 110,000, a black-haired person has 100,000, and a redhead has 90,000.[22] Hair growth stops after a human's death. Visible growth of hair on the dead body happens only because of skin drying out due to water loss.[23][24]

The world record for longest hair on a living person stands with Smita Srivastava of Uttar Pradesh, India. At 7 feet and 9 inches long, she broke a Guinness World Record in November 2023, having grown her hair for 32 years.[25]

Texture

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Hair type 4c

Hair exists in a variety of textures. Three main aspects of hair texture are the curl pattern, volume, and consistency. All mammalian hair is composed of keratin, so the make-up of hair follicles is not the source of varying hair patterns. There are a range of theories pertaining to the curl patterns of hair. Scientists have come to believe that the shape of the hair shaft has an effect on the curliness of the individual's hair. A very round shaft allows for fewer disulfide bonds to be present in the hair strand. This means the bonds present are directly in line with one another, resulting in straight hair.[26]

Toddler with curly hair

The flatter the hair shaft becomes, the curlier hair gets, because the shape allows more cysteines to become compacted together resulting in a bent shape that, with every additional disulfide bond, becomes curlier in form.[26] As the hair follicle shape determines curl pattern, the hair follicle size determines thickness. While the circumference of the hair follicle expands, so does the thickness of the hair follicle. An individual's hair volume, as a result, can be thin, normal, or thick. The consistency of hair can almost always be grouped into three categories: fine, medium, and coarse. This trait is determined by the hair follicle volume and the condition of the strand.[27] Fine hair has the smallest circumference, coarse hair has the largest circumference, and medium hair is anywhere between the other two.[27] Coarse hair has a more open cuticle than thin or medium hair, causing it to be the most porous.[27]

Classification systems

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There are various systems that people use to classify their curl patterns. Being knowledgeable of an individual's hair type is a good start to knowing how to take care of one's hair. There is not just one method to discovering one's hair type. Additionally, it is possible and quite normal to have more than one kind of hair type, for instance having a mixture of both type 3a and 3b curls.

Andre Walker system
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The Andre Walker Hair Typing System is the most widely used system to classify hair. The system was created by Oprah Winfrey's hairstylist, Andre Walker. According to this system there are four types of hair: straight, wavy, curly, and kinky.

  • Type 1 is straight hair, which reflects the most sheen and also the most resilient hair of all of the hair types. It is hard to damage and immensely difficult to curl this hair texture. Because the sebum easily spreads from the scalp to the ends without curls or kinks to interrupt its path, it is the most oily hair texture of all.
  • Type 2 is wavy hair, whose texture and sheen ranges somewhere between straight and curly hair. Wavy hair is also more likely to become frizzy than straight hair. While type A waves can easily alternate between straight and curly styles, type B and C wavy hair is resistant to styling.
  • Type 3 is curly hair known to have an S-shape. The curl pattern may resemble a lowercase "s", uppercase "S", or sometimes an uppercase "Z" or lowercase "z".[citation needed] Lack of proper care causes less defined curls.
  • Type 4 is kinky hair, which features a tightly coiled curl pattern (or no discernible curl pattern at all) that is often fragile with a very high density. This type of hair shrinks when wet, and because it has fewer cuticle layers than other hair types, it is more susceptible to damage.
Andre Walker hair types
Type 1: Straight
1a Straight (Fine/Thin)  Hair tends to be very soft, thin, shiny, oily, poor at holding curls, difficult to damage.
1b Straight (Medium) Hair characterized by volume and body.
1c Straight (Coarse) Hair tends to be bone-straight, coarse, difficult to curl.
Type 2: Wavy
2a Wavy (Fine/Thin) Hair has definite "S" pattern, can easily be straightened or curled, usually receptive to a variety of styles.
2b Wavy (Medium) Can tend to be frizzy and a little resistant to styling.
2c Wavy (Coarse) Fairly coarse, frizzy or very frizzy with thicker waves, often more resistant to styling.
Type 3: Curly
3a Curly (Loose) Presents a definite "S" pattern, tends to combine thickness, volume, and/or frizziness.
3b Curly (Tight) Presents a definite "S" pattern, curls ranging from spirals to spiral-shaped corkscrews.
Type 4: Kinky
4a Kinky (Soft) Hair tends to be very wiry and fragile, tightly coiled and can feature curly patterning.
4b Kinky (Wiry) As 4a but with less defined pattern of curls, looks more like a "Z" with sharp angles.
FIA system
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This is a method which classifies the hair by curl pattern, hair-strand thickness and overall hair volume.

FIA hair classification

Curliness

Straight
1a Stick-straight.
1b Straight but with a slight body wave adding some volume.
1c Straight with body wave and one or two visible S-waves (e.g. at nape of neck or temples).
Wavy
2a Loose with stretched S-waves throughout.
2b Shorter with more distinct S-waves (resembling e.g. braided damp hair).
2c Distinct S-waves, some spiral curling.
Curly
3a Big, loose spiral curls.
3b Bouncy ringlets.
3c Tight corkscrews.
Very ("Really") curly
4a Tightly coiled S-curls.
4b Z-patterned (tightly coiled, sharply angled)
4c Mostly Z-patterned (tightly kinked, less definition)

Strands

F Fine

Thin strands that sometimes are almost translucent when held up to the light.
Shed strands can be hard to see even against a contrasting background.
Fine hair is difficult to feel or it feels like an ultra-fine strand of silk.

M Medium

Strands are neither fine nor coarse.
Medium hair feels like a cotton thread, but is not stiff or rough.
It is neither fine nor coarse.

C Coarse

Thick strands whose shed strands usually are easily identified.
Coarse hair feels hard and wiry.

Volume
by circumference of full-hair ponytail
i Thin Circumference less than 2 inches (5.1 centimetres)
ii Normal ... from 2 to 4 inches (5.1 to 10.2 centimetres)
iii Thick ... more than 4 inches (10 centimetres)

Composition

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Hair is mainly composed of keratin proteins and keratin-associated proteins (KRTAPs). The human genome encodes 54 different keratin proteins which are present in various amounts in hair. Similarly, humans encode more than 100 different KRTAPs which crosslink keratins in hair. The content of KRTAPs ranges from less than 3% in human hair to 30–40% in echidna quill.[28]

Functions

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Many mammals have fur and other hairs that serve different functions. Hair provides thermal regulation and camouflage for many animals; for others it provides signals to other animals such as warnings, mating, or other communicative displays; and for some animals hair provides defensive functions and, rarely, even offensive protection. Hair also has a sensory function, extending the sense of touch beyond the surface of the skin. Guard hairs give warnings that may trigger a recoiling reaction.

Warmth

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Polar bears use their fur for warmth and while their skin is black, their transparent fur appears white and provides camouflage while hunting and serves as protection by hiding cubs in the snow.

While humans have developed clothing and other means of keeping warm, the hair found on the head serves primarily as a source of heat insulation and cooling (when sweat evaporates from soaked hair) as well as protection from ultra-violet radiation exposure. The function of hair in other locations is debated. Hats and coats are still required while doing outdoor activities in cold weather to prevent frostbite and hypothermia, but the hair on the human body does help to keep the internal temperature regulated. When the body is too cold, the arrector pili muscles found attached to hair follicles stand up, causing the hair in these follicles to do the same. These hairs then form a heat-trapping layer above the epidermis. This process is formally called piloerection, derived from the Latin words 'pilus' ('hair') and 'erectio' ('rising up'), but is more commonly known as 'having goose bumps' in English.[29] This is more effective in other mammals whose fur fluffs up to create air pockets between hairs that insulate the body from the cold. The opposite actions occur when the body is too warm; the arrector muscles make the hair lie flat on the skin which allows heat to leave.

Protection

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In some mammals, such as hedgehogs and porcupines, the hairs have been modified into hard spines or quills. These are covered with thick plates of keratin and serve as protection against predators. Thick hair such as that of the lion's mane and grizzly bear's fur do offer some protection from physical damages such as bites and scratches.

Touch sense

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Displacement and vibration of hair shafts are detected by hair follicle nerve receptors and nerve receptors within the skin. Hairs can sense movements of air as well as touch by physical objects and they provide sensory awareness of the presence of ectoparasites.[30] Some hairs, such as eyelashes, are especially sensitive to the presence of potentially harmful matter.[31][32][33][34]

Eyebrows prevent sweat, water, and other debris from above from falling down into the eye.
Eyelashes are hairs on the edges of the eyelids that catch dust and dirt when the eye is blinked.

Eyebrows and eyelashes

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The eyebrows provide moderate protection to the eyes from dirt, sweat and rain. They also play a key role in non-verbal communication by displaying emotions such as sadness, anger, surprise and excitement. In many other mammals, they contain much longer, whisker-like hairs that act as tactile sensors.

The eyelash grows at the edges of the eyelid and protects the eye from dirt. The eyelash is to humans, camels, horses, ostriches etc., what whiskers are to cats; they are used to sense when dirt, dust, or any other potentially harmful object is too close to the eye.[35] The eye reflexively closes as a result of this sensation.

Eyebrows and eyelashes do not grow beyond a certain length (eyelashes are rarely more than 10 mm long). However, trichomegaly can cause the lashes to grow remarkably long and prominent (in some cases the upper lashes grow to 15 mm long).

Evolution

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Hair has its origins in the common ancestor of mammals, the synapsids, about 300 million years ago. It is currently unknown at what stage the synapsids acquired mammalian characteristics such as body hair and mammary glands, as the fossils only rarely provide direct evidence for soft tissues. Skin impression of the belly and lower tail of a pelycosaur, possibly Haptodus shows the basal synapsid stock bore transverse rows of rectangular scutes, similar to those of a modern crocodile, so the age of acquirement of hair logically could not have been earlier than ≈299 ma, based on the current understanding of the animal's phylogeny.[36] An exceptionally well-preserved skull of Estemmenosuchus, a therapsid from the Upper Permian, shows smooth, hairless skin with what appears to be glandular depressions,[37] though as a semi-aquatic species it might not have been particularly useful to determine the integument of terrestrial species. The oldest undisputed known fossils showing unambiguous imprints of hair are the Callovian (late middle Jurassic) Castorocauda and several contemporary haramiyidans, both near-mammal cynodonts, giving the age as no later than ≈220 ma based on the modern phylogenetic understanding of these clades.[38][39][40] More recently, studies on terminal Permian Russian coprolites may suggest that non-mammalian synapsids from that era had fur.[41] If this is the case, these are the oldest hair remnants known, showcasing that fur occurred as far back as the latest Paleozoic.

Some modern mammals have a special gland in front of each orbit used to preen the fur, called the harderian gland. Imprints of this structure are found in the skull of the small early mammals like Morganucodon, but not in their cynodont ancestors like Thrinaxodon.[42]

The hairs of the fur in modern animals are all connected to nerves, and so the fur also serves as a transmitter for sensory input. Fur could have evolved from sensory hair (whiskers). The signals from this sensory apparatus is interpreted in the neocortex, a section of the brain that expanded markedly in animals like Morganucodon and Hadrocodium.[43] The more advanced therapsids could have had a combination of naked skin, whiskers, and scutes. A full pelage likely did not evolve until the therapsid-mammal transition.[44] The more advanced, smaller therapsids could have had a combination of hair and scutes, a combination still found in some modern mammals, such as rodents and the opossum.[45]

The high interspecific variability of the size, color, and microstructure of hair often enables the identification of species based on single hair filaments.[46][47]

Naked mole-rat (Heterocephalus glaber) in a zoo.

In varying degrees most mammals have some skin areas without natural hair. On the human body, glabrous skin is found on the ventral portion of the fingers, palms, soles of feet and lips, which are all parts of the body most closely associated with interacting with the world around us,[48] as are the labia minora and glans penis.[49] There are four main types of mechanoreceptors in the glabrous skin of humans: Pacinian corpuscles, Meissner's corpuscles, Merkel's discs, and Ruffini corpuscles.

The naked mole-rat (Heterocephalus glaber) has evolved skin lacking in general, pelagic hair covering, yet has retained long, very sparsely scattered tactile hairs over its body.[48] Glabrousness is a trait that may be associated with neoteny.[50]

The soft, fine hair found on many nonhuman mammals is typically called fur.

Evolutionary variation

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Primates are relatively hairless compared to other mammals, and Hominini such as chimpanzees, have less dense hair than would be expected given their body size for a primate.[51] Evolutionary biologists suggest that the genus Homo arose in East Africa approximately 2 million years ago.[52] Part of this evolution was the development of endurance running[53] and venturing out during the hot times of the day[54] that required efficient thermoregulation through perspiration. The loss of heat through heat of evaporation by means of sweat glands is aided by air currents next to the skin surface, which are facilitated by the loss of body hair.[55]

Another factor in human evolution that also occurred in the prehistoric past was a preferential selection for neoteny, particularly in females. The idea that adult humans exhibit certain neotenous (juvenile) features, not evinced in the other great apes, is about a century old. Louis Bolk made a long list of such traits,[56] and Stephen Jay Gould published a short list in Ontogeny and Phylogeny.[57] In addition, paedomorphic characteristics in women are often acknowledged as desirable by men in developed countries.[58] For instance, vellus hair is a juvenile characteristic. However, while men develop longer, coarser, thicker, and darker terminal hair through sexual differentiation, women do not, leaving their vellus hair visible.

Texture

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Curly hair

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Yellow curly hair and scalp from body which had long black wig over hair. Parts of wig plait remains. From Egypt, Gurob, probably tomb 23. 18th–19th Dynasty. The Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archaeology, London
Man with curly hair (David Luiz, Brazilian footballer)
Global hair texture map

Jablonski[55] asserts head hair was evolutionarily advantageous for pre-humans to retain because it protected the scalp as they walked upright in the intense African (equatorial) UV light. While some might argue that, by this logic, humans should also express hairy shoulders because these body parts would putatively be exposed to similar conditions, the protection of the head, the seat of the brain that enabled humanity to become one of the most successful species on the planet (and which also is very vulnerable at birth) was arguably a more urgent issue (axillary hair in the underarms and groin were also retained as signs of sexual maturity). Sometime during the gradual process by which Homo erectus began a transition from furry skin to the naked skin expressed by Homo sapiens, hair texture putatively gradually changed from straight hair[citation needed] (the condition of most mammals, including humanity's closest cousins—chimpanzees) to Afro-textured hair or 'kinky' (i.e. tightly coiled). This argument assumes that curly hair better impedes the passage of UV light into the body relative to straight hair (thus curly or coiled hair would be particularly advantageous for light-skinned hominids living at the equator).

It is substantiated by Iyengar's findings [citation needed](1998) that UV light can enter into straight human hair roots (and thus into the body through the skin) via the hair shaft. Specifically, the results of that study suggest that this phenomenon resembles the passage of light through fiber optic tubes (which do not function as effectively when kinked or sharply curved or coiled). In this sense, when hominids (i.e. Homo erectus) were gradually losing their straight body hair and thereby exposing the initially pale skin underneath their fur to the sun, straight hair would have been an adaptive liability. By inverse logic, later, as humans traveled farther from Africa and/or the equator, straight hair may have (initially) evolved to aid the entry of UV light into the body during the transition from dark, UV-protected skin to paler skin.

Jablonski's assertions[55] suggest that the adjective "woolly" in reference to Afro-hair is a misnomer in connoting the high heat insulation derivable from the true wool of sheep. Instead, the relatively sparse density of Afro-hair, combined with its springy coils actually results in an airy, almost sponge-like structure that in turn, Jablonski argues,[55] more likely facilitates an increase in the circulation of cool air onto the scalp. Further, wet Afro-hair does not stick to the neck and scalp unless totally drenched and instead tends to retain its basic springy puffiness because it less easily responds to moisture and sweat than straight hair does. In this sense, the trait may enhance comfort levels in intense equatorial climates more than straight hair (which, on the other hand, tends to naturally fall over the ears and neck to a degree that provides slightly enhanced comfort levels in cold climates relative to tightly coiled hair).

Further, it is notable that the most pervasive expression of this hair texture can be found in sub-Saharan Africa; a region of the world that abundant genetic and paleo-anthropological evidence suggests, was the relatively recent (≈200,000-year-old) point of origin for modern humanity. In fact, although genetic findings (Tishkoff, 2009) suggest that sub-Saharan Africans are the most genetically diverse continental group on Earth, Afro-textured hair approaches ubiquity in this region. This points to a strong, long-term selective pressure that, in stark contrast to most other regions of the genomes of sub-Saharan groups, left little room for genetic variation at the determining loci. Such a pattern, again, does not seem to support human sexual aesthetics as being the sole or primary cause of this distribution.

Straight black hair

The EDAR locus

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A group of studies have recently shown that genetic patterns at the EDAR locus, a region of the modern human genome that contributes to hair texture variation among most individuals of East Asian descent, support the hypothesis that (East Asian) straight hair likely developed in this branch of the modern human lineage subsequent to the original expression of tightly coiled natural afro-hair.[59][60][61] Specifically, the relevant findings indicate that the EDAR mutation coding for the predominant East Asian 'coarse' or thick, straight hair texture arose within the past ≈65,000 years, which is a time frame that covers from the earliest of the 'Out of Africa' migrations up to now.

Disease

[edit]

Ringworm is a fungal disease that targets hairy skin.[62]

Premature greying of hair is another condition that results in greying before the age of 20 years in Europeans, before 25 years in Asians, and before 30 years in Africans.[63]

Hair care

[edit]

Hair care involves the hygiene and cosmetology of hair including hair on the scalp, facial hair (beard and moustache), pubic hair and other body hair. Hair care routines differ according to an individual's culture and the physical characteristics of one's hair. Hair may be colored, trimmed, shaved, plucked, or otherwise removed with treatments such as waxing, sugaring, and threading.

Removal practices

[edit]

Depilation is the removal of hair from the surface of the skin. This can be achieved through methods such as shaving. Epilation is the removal of the entire hair strand, including the part of the hair that has not yet left the follicle. A popular way to epilate hair is through waxing.

Shaving

[edit]
Many razors have multiple blades purportedly to ensure a close shave. While shaving initially will leave skin feeling smooth and hair free, new hair growth can appear a few hours after hair removal.

Shaving is accomplished with bladed instruments, such as razors. The blade is brought close to the skin and stroked over the hair in the desired area to cut the terminal hairs and leave the skin feeling smooth. Depending upon the rate of growth, one can begin to feel the hair growing back within hours of shaving. This is especially evident in men who develop a five o'clock shadow after having shaved their faces. This new growth is called stubble. Stubble typically appears to grow back thicker because the shaved hairs are blunted instead of tapered off at the end, although the hair never actually grows back thicker.

Waxing

[edit]

Waxing involves using a sticky wax and strip of paper or cloth to pull hair from the root. Waxing is the ideal hair removal technique to keep an area hair-free for long periods of time. It can take three to five weeks for waxed hair to begin to resurface again. Hair in areas that have been waxed consistently is known to grow back finer and thinner, especially compared to hair that has been shaved with a razor[citation needed].

Laser removal

[edit]

Laser hair removal is a cosmetic method where a small laser beam pulses selective heat on dark target matter in the area that causes hair growth without harming the skin tissue. This process is repeated several times over the course of many months to a couple of years with hair regrowing less frequently until it finally stops; this is used as a more permanent solution to waxing or shaving. Laser removal is practiced in many clinics along with many at-home products.

Cutting and trimming

[edit]

Because the hair on one's head is normally longer than other types of body hair, it is cut with scissors or clippers. People with longer hair will most often use scissors to cut their hair, whereas shorter hair is maintained using a trimmer. Depending on the desired length and overall health of the hair, periods without cutting or trimming the hair can vary.

Cut hair may be used in wigs. Global imports of hair in 2010 was worth $US 1.24 billion.[64]

Social role

[edit]
Portrait of a Woman by Alessandro Allori (1535–1607) at Uffizi Gallery. It shows a plucked hairline that gives a fashionably noble brow.

Hair has great social significance for human beings.[65][66] It can grow on most external areas of the human body, except on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet (among other areas). Hair is most noticeable on most people in a small number of areas, which are also the ones that are most commonly trimmed, plucked, or shaved. These include the face, ears, head, eyebrows, legs, and armpits, as well as the pubic region. The highly visible differences between male and female body and facial hair are a notable secondary sex characteristic.

The world's longest documented hair belongs to Xie Qiuping (in China), at 5.627 m (18 ft 5.5 in) when measured on 8 May 2004. She has been growing her hair since 1973, from the age of 13.[67]

Indication of status

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Healthy hair indicates health and youth (important in evolutionary biology). Hair color and texture can be a sign of ethnic ancestry. Facial hair is a sign of puberty in men. White or gray hair is a sign of age or genetics, which may be concealed with hair dye (not easily for some), although many prefer to assume it (especially if it is a poliosis characteristic of the person since childhood). Pattern baldness in men is usually seen as a sign of aging that may be concealed with a toupee, hats, or religious and cultural adornments; however, the condition can be triggered by various hormonal factors at any age following puberty and is not uncommon in younger men. Although pattern baldness can be slowed down by drugs such as Finasteride and Minoxidil or treated with hair transplants, many men see this as unnecessary effort for the sake of vanity and instead shave their heads. In early modern China, the queue was a male hairstyle in which the hair at the front and top was shaved every 10 days in a style mimicking pattern baldness, while the remaining hair at the back was braided into a long pigtail.

A hairstyle may be an indicator of group membership. During the English Civil War, followers of Oliver Cromwell cropped their hair close to their head in an act of defiance against the curls and ringlets of the king's men, which led to them being nicknamed Roundheads.[68] Recent isotopic analysis of hair is helping to shed further light on sociocultural interaction, giving information on food procurement and consumption in the 19th century.[69] Having bobbed hair was popular among the flappers in the 1920s as a sign of rebellion against traditional roles for women. Female art students known as the Cropheads also adopted the style, notably at the Slade School in London. Regional variations in hirsutism has caused practices regarding hair on the arms and legs to differ. Some religious groups may follow certain rules regarding hair as part of religious observance. The rules often differ for men and women.

Many subcultures have hairstyles which may indicate an unofficial membership. Many hippies, metalheads, and Indian sadhus have long hair, as well many older hipsters. Many punks wear a hairstyle known as a mohawk or other spiked and dyed hairstyles, while skinheads have short-cropped or completely shaved heads. Long stylized bangs were very common for emos, scene kids, and younger hipsters in the 2000s and early 2010s.

Heads were shaved in concentration camps, and head-shaving has been used as punishment, especially for women with long hair. The shaven head is common in military haircuts, while Western monks are known for the tonsure. By contrast, among some Indian holy men, the hair is worn extremely long.[70][71][72][73]

In the time of Confucius (5th century BCE), the Chinese grew out their hair and often tied it, as a symbol of filial piety. Regular hairdressing in some cultures is considered a sign of wealth or status. The dreadlocks of the Rastafari movement were despised early in the movement's history. In some cultures, having one's hair cut can symbolize a liberation from one's past, usually after a trying time in one's life. Cutting the hair also may be a sign of mourning.

Tightly coiled hair in its natural state may be worn in an Afro. This hairstyle was once worn among African Americans as a symbol of racial pride. Given that the coiled texture is the natural state of some African Americans' hair, or perceived as being more "African", this simple style is now often seen as a sign of self-acceptance and an affirmation that the beauty norms of the (eurocentric) dominant culture are not absolute. African Americans as a whole have a variety of hair textures, as they are not an ethnically homogeneous group, but an ad-hoc of different racial admixtures.

The film Easy Rider (1969) includes the assumption that the two main characters could have their long hairs forcibly shaved with a rusty razor when jailed, symbolizing the intolerance of some conservative groups toward members of the counterculture. At the conclusion of England's 1971 Oz trials, the defendants had their heads shaved by the police, causing public outcry. During the appeal trial, they appeared in the dock wearing wigs.[74] A case where a 14-year-old student was expelled from school in Brazil in the mid-2000s, allegedly because of his fauxhawk haircut, sparked national debate and legal action resulting in compensation.[75][76]

Religious practices

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Women's hair may be hidden using headscarves, a common part of the hijab in Islam and a symbol of modesty required for certain religious rituals in Eastern Orthodoxy. The Russian Orthodox Church requires all married women to wear headscarves inside the church; this tradition is often extended to all women, regardless of marital status. Orthodox Judaism also commands the use of scarves and other head coverings for married women for modesty reasons. Certain Hindu sects also wear head scarves for religious reasons. Sikhs have an obligation not to cut hair (a Sikh cutting hair becomes 'apostate' which means fallen from religion)[77] and men keep it tied in a bun on the head, which is then covered appropriately using a turban. Multiple religions, both ancient and contemporary, require or advise one to allow their hair to become dreadlocks, though people also wear them for fashion. For men, Islam, Orthodox Judaism, Orthodox Christianity, Roman Catholicism, and other religious groups have at various times recommended or required the covering of the head and sections of the hair of men, and some have dictates relating to the cutting of men's facial and head hair. Some Christian sects throughout history and up to modern times have also religiously proscribed the cutting of women's hair. For some Sunni madhabs, the donning of a kufi or topi is a form of sunnah.[78] Brahmin males are prescribed to shave their heads, but leave a tuft of hair unshaved, worn in the form of a topknot.[79]

In Arabic poetry

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Since ancient times, women's long, thick, wavy hair has featured prominently in Arabic poetry.[80] Pre-Islamic poets used only limited imagery to describe women's hair.[80] For example, al-A'sha wrote a verse comparing a lover's hair to "a garden whose grapes dangle down upon me", but Bashshar ibn Burd considered this unusual.[80] One comparison used by early poets, such as Imru al-Qays, was to bunches of dates.[80] In Abbasid times, however, the imagery for hair expanded significantly - particularly for the then-fashionable "love-locks" (sudgh) framing the temples, which came into style at the court of the caliph al-Amin.[80] Hair curls were compared to hooks and chains, letters (such as fa, waw, lam, and nun), scorpions, annelids, and polo sticks.[80] An example was the poet Ibn al-Mu'tazz, who compared a lock of hair and a birthmark to a polo stick driving a ball.[80]

See also

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References

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Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia
Hair is a filamentous consisting mainly of proteins that grows from follicles embedded in the of mammalian . Primarily composed of arranged in intermediate filaments within epithelial cells, hair provides structural support and is a defining feature enabling various physiological adaptations in mammals. Its core structure includes the medulla (innermost unstructured region), the cortex (responsible for strength, elasticity, and pigmentation via ), and the protective outer layer of overlapping scales. Hair growth occurs in cyclic phases: anagen (active proliferation), catagen (regression), and telogen (resting), with hair anagen lasting 2–7 years on average, determining length and influenced by and hormones. In mammals, hair primarily functions in by insulating against heat loss or excess, mechanical of , sensory detection via specialized vibrissae (), and secondary roles in , signaling, and waterproofing. Empirical studies confirm these roles, such as hair's insulation efficacy in varying climates, with denser coats in colder-adapted enhancing survival through causal mechanisms of heat retention and dissipation. While hair emphasizes social and aesthetic roles, its biological primacy remains tied to these ancestral functions, with reduction linked to evolutionary shifts toward efficient sweating for endurance activities.

Definition and Basics

Definition and Etymology

Hair is a filamentous composed primarily of the protein , originating from hair follicles embedded in the of mammalian . It consists of a visible shaft projecting above the skin surface and an underlying root anchored within the follicle, which extends into the dermal layer of the . The structure is formed by tightly packed, keratinized dead cells derived from in the follicle, distinguishing it from other epidermal derivatives like scales or feathers. As one of the defining synapomorphies of mammals, hair evolved in the common ancestor of the group, providing thermoregulatory insulation by trapping air and aiding in sensory functions through specialized forms like vibrissae. All mammals produce hair at some life stage, though density and distribution vary widely across species and body regions. The English noun "hair" originates from Old English hǣr, denoting a single strand or collective growth on the head or body. This term derives from Proto-Germanic *hērą, shared with cognates such as hár, hār, Dutch haar, and modern German Haar. The Proto-Indo-European root is reconstructed as *ghers-, connoting "to " or "stand out," reflecting the erect, protruding nature of the filament, with possible links to terms for stiff projections in other . The word's usage predates the in Germanic traditions, evolving without significant semantic shifts related to modern contexts like artificial fibers.

Anatomy and Composition

Hair Follicle Structure

The hair follicle constitutes the pilosebaceous unit, integrating the follicle itself with an associated and , forming a multifunctional embedded within the and extending into the . This structure originates from ectodermal invaginations during embryogenesis, with the epithelial compartment derived from epidermal and the mesenchymal elements from dermal fibroblasts. The follicle's architecture supports cyclic hair production through interactions between epithelial progenitors and mesenchymal signaling centers. Vertically, the follicle divides into the infundibulum, , and inferior segment; the infundibulum represents the uppermost portion opening to the skin surface, lined by continuous with the , while the transitions to the bulge region housing epithelial stem cells marked by keratin 15 expression. The inferior segment encompasses the hair bulb, comprising proliferative matrix cells surrounding the dermal papilla, a cluster of specialized mesenchymal cells that provide inductive signals via factors such as Wnt and BMP pathways to regulate follicle and cycling. The dermal papilla, cup-shaped and avascular, interfaces directly with the matrix, influencing hair fiber caliber through cell number variations, as evidenced by studies showing larger papillae correlate with thicker hairs. The epithelial layers include the outer root sheath (ORS), contiguous with the and expressing keratins K5 and K14, and the inner root sheath (IRS) comprising three sublayers—Henle's layer, Huxley's layer, and the inner root sheath —that guide hair shaft formation and degrade during emergence. The hair shaft, produced by matrix cell differentiation, consists of an outer of overlapping scales, a cortex forming the bulk with filaments for strength, and an optional medulla of loosely packed cells in coarser hairs. Enveloping the epithelial components, the dermal sheath provides structural support and a source of myofibroblast-like cells, maintaining follicle integrity during regression phases. Associated structures enhance functionality: the , attached at the infundibulum junction, secretes sebum via mechanisms to lubricate the shaft, while the , a bundle innervated by sympathetic fibers, contracts to erect hairs in response to cold or stress, facilitating . Blood supply derives from the dermal , with capillaries penetrating the papilla to nourish matrix proliferation, underscoring the follicle's vascular dependence for active growth. Histological examination reveals these components' precise , with trichohyalin granules in IRS Henle's layer aiding .

Chemical Composition

Human hair primarily consists of proteins, which account for 65–95% of its dry weight, forming a fibrous structure that provides mechanical strength and resilience. These keratins belong to the family, specifically alpha-keratins characterized by their alpha-helical coiled-coil dimers that assemble into 10-nm protofilaments and further into higher-order structures stabilized by cross-links. The cortex, comprising the bulk of the hair shaft, contains these keratin filaments embedded in a matrix of keratin-associated proteins (KAPs), which are rich in and contribute to the hair's hardness and elasticity. Keratin's amino acid profile is dominated by (up to 10–14% as cystine in form), alongside high levels of , serine, , and , enabling extensive intra- and intermolecular bonds (approximately 1 per 10–12 amino acids) that confer resistance to tensile forces and environmental degradation. Evolutionarily conserved signatures include elevated and in hard keratins like those in hair, distinguishing them from softer epidermal keratins. The layer, composed of overlapping keratin scales, and the optional medulla feature similar but less densely packed keratin variants, with the complex binding layers via lipid-protein interactions. Beyond proteins, hair contains 1–9% , primarily 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA) covalently bound to the surface for hydrophobicity, alongside free fatty acids, , and ceramides that influence surface properties and water retention. granules in the cortex provide pigmentation via eumelanin (black-brown) and pheomelanin (red-yellow), comprising 1–3% by weight in pigmented hair. Water content varies from 6–12% in dry conditions to higher levels when hydrated, affecting flexibility. Trace elements, analyzed via techniques like , include , iron, and at parts-per-million levels, reflecting dietary intake but varying by ethnicity and environment (e.g., higher in urban residents). The elemental composition, on a dry basis, approximates:
ElementPercentage by Weight
Carbon50–55%
Oxygen20–30%
10–17%
6–7%
5%
These values derive from keratin's polypeptide backbone (C, H, O, N) augmented by sulfur from cystine. Variations occur due to processing (e.g., bleaching reduces cystine) or individual factors, but the core keratin matrix remains the determinant of hair's chemical stability.

Growth Cycle and Regulation

The hair growth cycle consists of three primary phases: anagen, the active growth phase; catagen, the transitional regression phase; and telogen, the resting phase. This cyclic process occurs asynchronously in human scalp follicles, with approximately 85-90% of follicles in anagen at any time, ensuring continuous hair coverage. The cycle is regulated by intrinsic molecular mechanisms and extrinsic factors such as hormones and environmental influences, with dysregulation linked to conditions like alopecia. During anagen, matrix keratinocytes in the hair proliferate rapidly, elongating the hair shaft at rates of about 0.3-0.4 mm per day on the . This phase lasts 2-7 years for scalp hair, varying by individual and site, with follicle stem cells in the bulge activated by signaling pathways including Wnt/β-catenin. Anagen induction involves bone morphogenetic proteins (BMPs) and fibroblast growth factors (FGFs), which promote dermal papilla signaling to sustain growth. Catagen follows, a brief involution phase lasting 2-3 weeks, characterized by of the lower follicle and cessation of proliferation, reducing the follicle to a club hair structure. TGF-β signaling triggers this regression, detaching the follicle from the dermal papilla and forming the secondary hair germ. Only about 1-2% of follicles enter catagen simultaneously under normal conditions. Telogen persists for 3-4 months, during which the club hair remains anchored until exogen, the shedding phase, when it is released to allow new anagen initiation. Approximately 50-100 hairs enter telogen daily, leading to normal shedding of 100-150 hairs per day. Transition to the next anagen is governed by reactivation, influenced by factors like decreased BMP inhibition. Regulation integrates genetic, hormonal, and local paracrine signals. , via androgen receptors in the dermal papilla, shorten anagen in androgenetic alopecia-prone follicles but promote growth in others, demonstrating site-specific effects. and insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1) extend anagen, while glucocorticoids induce catagen. Circadian clock genes such as Per1 and Cry1 modulate cycle timing, with mutations disrupting synchrony in animal models. Genetic variants in genes like HR influence postnatal cycling, as evidenced by mutations causing congenital . Nutritional deficiencies, stress-induced , and aging progressively shorten anagen duration, reducing hair density.

Pigmentation and Color Variation

Human hair pigmentation arises from melanin granules produced by melanocytes within the hair follicle bulb, with color determined by the ratio of two primary types: eumelanin, which imparts black to brown hues, and pheomelanin, which contributes yellow to red tones. High concentrations of eumelanin result in dark hair, while lower levels combined with pheomelanin yield lighter shades such as blonde or red; contains the highest eumelanin content, often exceeding 100 pg per hair shaft, whereas blonde hair has minimal amounts, around 10-20 pg. Genetic factors govern melanin synthesis, primarily through variants in the (MC1R) gene on , which regulates the switch between eumelanin and pheomelanin production. Individuals with two loss-of-function MC1R alleles, such as R151C, R160W, or D294H, exhibit reduced eumelanin and elevated pheomelanin, leading to as a recessive trait; this occurs in approximately 1-2% of the global population, with prevalence reaching 10% in Ireland and 13% in due to founder effects in Northern European ancestry. Blonde hair, characterized by sparse eumelanin, involves multiple loci beyond MC1R, including variants associated with lighter pigmentation in over 200 genetic sites, predominantly in European-descended groups where it comprises up to 2% worldwide but higher locally, such as in . Black and brown hair dominate globally, affecting 75-85% of people, reflecting default eumelanin-dominant pathways conserved across populations. Hair color changes with age through the progressive loss of functional stem cells (McSCs) in the follicle niche, driven by factors including , DNA damage, and failure of McSCs to migrate and differentiate properly during the hair growth cycle. This depletion reduces transfer to , resulting in unpigmented or gray hairs; studies show McSC exhaustion begins in the third decade of life, with full graying typically by age 50 in Caucasians, earlier in darker-haired populations due to higher baseline melanocyte demands. Premature graying before age 20 affects 20-30% in some groups and links to genetic predispositions like variants, alongside environmental stressors such as , which accelerate McSC via accumulation.

Physical Properties

Texture and Curl Patterns

Hair texture refers to the diameter of individual hair shafts, which affects tactile properties such as and volume. Human hair diameters typically range from 20 to 180 micrometers, though most fall between 50 and 100 micrometers depending on and . Strands are categorized as fine (under 60 micrometers), medium (60-80 micrometers), or coarse (over 80 micrometers), with finer textures often appearing silkier but less resilient to breakage, while coarser strands provide greater durability but may feel rougher. Curl patterns encompass the three-dimensional configuration of hair fibers, from straight to tightly coiled, arising primarily from the shape and of the . Straight hair forms in symmetric, round follicles oriented perpendicular to the , yielding cylindrical fibers with uniform cortical cell lengths. In contrast, wavy, curly, and coily patterns emerge from curved or elliptical follicles, where differential proliferation rates in inner root sheath layers and uneven expression (e.g., higher in concave regions) generate helical twists or flattened ellipses during fiber elongation. This is evident , with curly follicles showing angular emergence and mechanical stresses that reinforce the coil. Genetic variants underpin these patterns, with genes such as TCHH (encoding trichohyalin, which structures inner root sheath proteins), EDAR (linked to straighter follicles in East Asian ancestries via a ), and PRSS53 modulating follicle and fiber shape. Genome-wide association studies confirm polygenic inheritance, where combinations of determine curl degree, explaining population-level differences like higher coily prevalence in African ancestries. Scientific classifications, such as the STAM index, quantify patterns across eight types (I: straight to VIII: tightly coiled) based on curl radius and ellipticity, offering empirical metrics over subjective systems.

Growth Rates and Density

Human scalp hair grows at an average rate of 0.35 mm per day, corresponding to approximately 1 cm per month or 15 cm per year in healthy adults. For example, growing hair from 10 cm to 20-30 cm requires 10-20 cm of growth, which at average rates of 1-1.5 cm per month takes approximately 6-20 months. This rate can vary between 0.6 and 3.36 cm per month depending on individual factors such as follicle activity and measurement conditions. Growth occurs primarily during the anagen phase of the hair cycle, with terminal hairs maintaining this phase for 2-6 years, allowing for extended length compared to shorter-cycled body hairs. Hair growth rates differ modestly across body regions, though the linear extension speed is similar (around 0.3-0.4 mm/day); differences arise mainly from varying anagen durations. and beard hair exhibit the longest growth phases, while axillary and grow at comparable daily rates but enter catagen sooner, limiting length. Eyelashes and eyebrows grow more slowly at about 0.16 mm per day. Thicker terminal hairs (>60 μm diameter) tend to elongate faster than finer vellus hairs. Several factors influence growth rates, including , which set baseline potential; , with males often experiencing slightly faster rates due to androgens; and age, with growth generally fastest between 15–30 years and gradual slowing after 40–50 due to shortened anagen phases and hormonal shifts. (e.g., deficiencies in iron, , or protein), function, and stress can reduce rates via disruptions to follicle or cycle synchronization, while seasonal variations show peaks in spring for some populations. Scalp hair density averages 120-200 follicles per square centimeter, yielding 80,000-120,000 total scalp hairs in adults, with follicular units (groups of 1-4 hairs) numbering 65-85 per cm². Density correlates with apparent thickness, as multi-hair units enhance coverage. Variations occur by ethnicity, with African-descent individuals showing lower average density (e.g., fewer follicles per cm²) than Caucasian or Asian groups, alongside finer diameters that affect perceived fullness. Sex differences are minimal on the scalp, though males typically have higher overall density due to sensitivity. Age-related decline in density stems from follicle and increased telogen shedding, reducing effective coverage by 10-20% per decade after 30. and hormones primarily drive these baselines, with environmental factors like UV exposure or accelerating loss.
Body RegionAverage Growth Rate (mm/day)Notes
Scalp0.35Longest anagen; terminal hairs
Beard/Facial~0.3-0.4Androgen-driven; seasonal peaks
Axillary/Pubic~0.3Shorter cycle limits length
Eyebrow/Eyelash0.16Brief anagen; replacement-focused

Biological Functions

Thermoregulation and Protection

In mammals, including humans, hair functions primarily as an insulator by trapping a layer of still air close to the skin, thereby minimizing convective and radiative loss in cooler environments. This mechanism is particularly evident in the retention of hair among humans, which reduces dissipation from the head by up to 20-30% compared to a bald under controlled conditions simulating cold exposure. Experimental studies using imaging have confirmed that scalp hair, irrespective of texture, acts as a thermal barrier, with denser or longer hair enhancing insulation efficacy. The evolutionary reduction of body hair in humans, estimated to have occurred around 1-2 million years ago in ancestors, facilitated in hot, arid environments by enabling efficient evaporative cooling through sweat evaporation across glabrous . Unlike furred , hairless allows sweat to spread freely without wicking or insulation interference, increasing heat loss rates by 10-fold during exertion; computational models of hominid show this extended daily activity windows by several hours under equatorial solar loads. However, this loss compromises cold tolerance, as evidenced by higher metabolic costs for in hairless individuals during exposure to temperatures below 20°C. Scalp hair also mitigates solar overheating, with tightly curled variants providing superior protection by increasing the for infrared , reducing absorbed heat by approximately 50% more than straight hair under simulated . Field experiments during prolonged solar exposure demonstrate that head hair lowers temperature by 2-5°C and reduces sweat production by 25-40%, conserving and electrolytes during . Beyond , hair offers mechanical protection by cushioning the against impacts and abrasions, distributing forces that could otherwise cause trauma to underlying tissues. It further shields against ultraviolet (UV) , with eumelanin-rich hair absorbing up to 90% of UVB rays and mitigating oxidative damage from free radicals, thereby lowering risks of scalp burns and photocarcinogenesis. These protective roles are amplified in populations with higher hair or pigmentation, correlating with reduced incidence of UV-induced disorders in sun-exposed regions.

Sensory and Signaling Roles

Hair functions as a peripheral mechanosensory structure, with fibers densely innervating the bulb and outer root sheath. Deflection or bending of the hair shaft stimulates these mechanoreceptors, converting mechanical stimuli into neural signals transmitted to the for tactile perception, such as detecting light touch, air movement, or contact on the skin. This innervation includes low-threshold mechanoreceptors, particularly C-tactile afferents associated with vellus and terminal hairs, which mediate pleasurable or affective touch sensations, as evidenced by correlations between hair follicle density and touch sensitivity thresholds in human experiments. Upon mechanical stimulation, hair follicle outer root sheath cells release neurotransmitters including ATP, , and serotonin, which further activate adjacent endings and amplify the tactile signal to the , independent of direct nerve-hair contact. Specialized facial hairs exemplify enhanced sensory roles: eyebrows provide somatosensory feedback from innervation around the follicles, contributing to detection of sweat or debris near the eyes, while eyelashes possess abundant nociceptive and mechanosensitive nerve fibers at their base, enabling rapid detection of approaching objects or irritants within millimeters of the corneal surface to trigger protective blinks. In signaling capacities, hair participates in autonomic responses via piloerection, where sympathetic activation contracts arrector pili muscles to erect hairs, facilitating thermoregulatory fluffing or, in vestigial form, visual displays of emotional states such as or ; in humans, this produces , a response observable across individuals during intense stimuli like exposure or music-induced , potentially originating from ancestral signaling to deter predators by increasing apparent size. Beyond intra-individual neural signaling, hair shaft properties indirectly aid chemical communication by trapping volatile compounds, including potential pheromones, on the and body, though empirical quantification of such olfactive roles in humans remains limited compared to other mammals.

Evolutionary Origins

Primate Ancestors and Adaptations

In non-human , body hair forms a dense pelage that primarily functions in by retaining heat in cooler environments and deflecting solar radiation in hotter ones, an suited to the variable microclimates of ancestral arboreal habitats. This pelage also provides mechanical against physical trauma, ultraviolet exposure, and ectoparasites, while specialized vibrissae—equipped with over 2,000 sensory nerve endings in some species—enhance tactile detection for and in forested settings. Piloerection of hairs enables rapid visual signaling of emotional states, such as or submission, facilitating social interactions within groups. Hair coloration and patterning in ancestral likely evolved for amid foliage or aposematic displays, with elongated structures like in certain males serving roles by indicating health or dominance. In basal lineages such as lemurs, empirical studies of wild populations reveal hair traits varying with body size, , and trichromatic vision capabilities, where denser or lighter correlates with thermoregulatory demands and predation risks in open versus shaded habitats. These patterns suggest that early hair adapted to ecological niches post-divergence from other mammals around 65–85 million years ago, prioritizing insulation and sensory utility over the sparse vellus-like hairs seen in later hominoid reductions. Phylogenetic reconstructions indicate that ancestral primates maintained higher follicle densities than observed in the hominoid , with quantitative skin biopsies showing macaques possessing 2–21 times more hairs per square centimeter across body regions compared to chimpanzees or humans. This denser coverage, inherited from synapsid forebears, supported increased body mass and without the compensatory eccrine gland proliferation that later decoupled hair and sweat traits in evolution. In prosimians and platyrrhines, hair additionally aids neonatal clinging to mothers, underscoring its role in amid high-infant-mortality ancestral conditions.

Development of Modern Human Hair Traits

Modern human hair traits, including reduced body hair density, prolonged scalp hair growth, and regional variations in texture, diverged significantly from those of other primates during the and Pleistocene epochs. Ancestral hominins, such as species around 4-2 million years ago, likely retained denser pelage similar to chimpanzees, but selective pressures in open environments favored hair reduction for enhanced via sweating, as hairy impedes evaporative cooling during endurance activities like . By the emergence of approximately 2 million years ago, body hair had substantially diminished, coinciding with , increased metabolic demands, and migration into varied climates, though direct fossil evidence is limited to indirect proxies like impressions and genetic reconstructions. The retention and specialization of scalp hair in modern humans (Homo sapiens, originating ~300,000 years ago in ) represent an adaptive contrast to loss, with follicles entering a prolonged anagen (growth) phase lasting 2-7 years compared to months in most . This elongation, potentially driven by genes like FGF5, which inhibits premature transition to catagen (resting phase), allowed scalp hair to reach lengths exceeding 1 meter, aiding solar protection and convective cooling of the in equatorial heat without impeding overall ectothermy. Thermoregulatory models suggest that long, possibly wavy scalp hair formed an insulating barrier against ultraviolet and midday overheating, a trait advantageous for diurnal foragers in high-insolation environments, with simulations showing up to 20% reduction in solar heat gain. Genetic evidence indicates that modern hair traits stabilized through relaxed selection on body hair genes and positive selection on scalp-specific regulators post-Homo sapiens dispersal. Mutations in EDAR, prevalent in East Asian populations since ~30,000 years ago, increased hair thickness and straightness, likely adapting to colder, drier climates by enhancing insulation and reducing breakage. Meanwhile, diverse curl patterns in sub-Saharan African lineages may reflect neutral drift or subtle advantages in moisture retention and parasite resistance, though empirical data prioritize over hypotheses lacking direct genetic support. These traits, while functional relics, persist amid minimal ongoing selection pressure in clothed societies.

Genetic and Population Variations

Key Genes Influencing Hair Traits

Human hair traits, including color, shape, texture, and thickness, are primarily polygenic, with multiple genetic variants contributing to phenotypic variation through interactions with environmental factors. Genome-wide association studies (GWAS) have identified numerous loci influencing these traits, often overlapping with pathways involved in ectodermal development and pigmentation. Key genes such as MC1R, EDAR, and TCHH play prominent roles, with effects varying by ancestry due to differences. For hair color, the MC1R gene on encodes the , which regulates production in hair follicles; loss-of-function variants lead to increased pheomelanin (red pigment) and reduced eumelanin (brown-black), resulting in and fair when homozygous or compound heterozygous. These variants explain most cases of , occurring in approximately 1-2% of global populations but up to 10-13% in northern and . Other genes like TYR and OCA2 influence and brown shades by modulating eumelanin levels, with GWAS identifying over 100 loci collectively accounting for much of pigmentation heritability. Hair shape and curliness involve genes affecting follicle structure and keratin organization. The EDAR gene, encoding ectodysplasin A receptor, harbors the V370A variant prevalent in East Asian populations (frequency >80% in ), promoting straight, thick hair shafts via altered ectodermal signaling; this allele arose around 30,000 years ago and underwent positive selection. In contrast, TCHH (trichohyalin) variants correlate with wavy or curly hair in European and mixed-ancestry groups, influencing trichocyte differentiation and fiber ellipticity. No single gene dominates curliness globally, as it arises from polygenic interactions shaping cross-sectional follicle asymmetry.
GenePrimary Trait InfluencedKey Variant/EffectAssociated PopulationsSource
MC1RRed hair colorLoss-of-function SNPs (e.g., R151C, R160W) increase pheomelaninHigher frequency in Europeans
EDARStraightness, thicknessV370A enhances shaft rigidity and diameterEast Asians (e.g., Han, Japanese)
TCHHCurliness/wavinessSNPs altering bindingEuropeans,
ARDensity (via baldness risk)CAG repeat expansions sensitize follicles to androgensMales across ancestries
Hair thickness and density are also EDAR-linked in Asians, where the gene boosts follicle size, while (androgen receptor) variants on the drive male pattern baldness by heightening follicle sensitivity to , affecting up to 80% of men by age 70. These findings from GWAS underscore hair traits' (50-90%) but highlight limitations, as rare variants and gene-environment interactions remain understudied.

Differences Across Ancestries

hair morphology varies significantly across ancestral populations, influenced by genetic adaptations to environmental factors such as climate and UV exposure. Populations of Sub-Saharan African descent typically exhibit tightly coiled or due to asymmetrical, flattened follicle cross-sections that produce elliptical or ribbon-like shafts with finer diameters around 55 µm, almost always black in color. Populations of East Asian and Native American descent typically exhibit straight hair with circular follicle cross-sections, resulting in uniform, cylindrical shafts with diameters averaging 70–90 µm, the thickest among major groups, and almost exclusively black pigmentation. Oceanian populations often show curly to wavy hair with dark shades. In contrast, individuals of European descent show intermediate diameters of about 65 µm and more elliptical follicles, leading to a spectrum from straight to wavy or curly textures with the widest color range, including blond, red, and brown via variants in MC1R. Hair density, measured as follicles per cm², also differs: European-ancestry individuals have the highest averages (around 200–250), followed by East Asians (150–200), with African-ancestry populations showing the lowest (100–150), though finer individual hairs in the latter compensate for overall coverage. Growth rates are more consistent across groups, averaging 0.3–0.4 mm per day, but some studies note slightly faster rates in European-ancestry hair (up to 1.2 cm/month) compared to East Asian (1.0 cm/month). These patterns arise from polygenic traits, with genes like EDAR variants prevalent in East Asians and Native Americans promoting straight, thick hair, while TCHH and others contribute to curliness in African-ancestry populations. Pigmentation differences stem from melanin composition: Sub-Saharan African-, East Asian-, and Native American-ancestry hair contains high levels of eumelanin, yielding predominantly black shades resistant to graying until later ages, while Oceanian hair is typically dark; European-ancestry hair features lower eumelanin and higher pheomelanin, enabling diverse colors like blonde, red, or light brown, with genetic loci such as MC1R explaining much of this variation. Straight hair predominates in East Asian and Native American groups (over 90%), wavy in Europeans (50–70%), and curly/coiled in Sub-Saharan African groups (80–95%), with Oceanian groups showing curly to wavy patterns, though admixture introduces overlaps and variations exist such as straight hair in some Africans and curly hair in some Europeans or Asians. These traits reflect evolutionary pressures, such as coiled hair aiding heat dissipation in equatorial climates, but claims of strict racial determinism overlook within-group diversity and recent genomic evidence of shared alleles.

Myths and Misconceptions About Racial Categories

A persistent misconception asserts that variations in hair texture across human populations are insignificant or randomly distributed, detached from ancestral geography or biology, often promoted in media and advocacy contexts to emphasize unity over differentiation. In contrast, genetic analyses reveal that hair curliness exhibits high heritability (up to 95% in studied cohorts) and clusters by continental ancestry due to differing allele frequencies at loci such as TCHH (associated with straight hair in Europeans) and EDAR variants (linked to straight, thick hair in East Asians). Tightly coiled (type 4) hair predominates in sub-Saharan African-descended populations (>80% prevalence), facilitating adaptation to hot, humid environments, while straight hair (type 1) is modal in East Asian (>90%) and more variable in European ancestries (∼45-50% straight). These patterns reflect selective pressures rather than superficial traits, with genome-wide studies confirming population-specific signals beyond shared human variation. Another common myth posits that hair growth rates vary markedly by racial category, with tightly coiled hair purportedly growing slower, leading to inherently shorter lengths. Empirical measurements indicate average anagen growth rates of approximately 0.8-1.0 cm per month for African-ancestry hair, compared to 1.0-1.3 cm for Caucasian and Asian, representing modest differences attributable to follicular kinetics rather than dramatic racial disparities. The perception of slower growth or shorter achievable length stems primarily from structural fragility—curly hair's elliptical cross-section and reduced tensile strength increase breakage under mechanical stress, compounded by uneven sebum distribution that exacerbates dryness. Density also differs, with African hair averaging lower follicle counts (∼100-150/cm² versus 200-250/cm² in Asians), but these do not negate the genetic clustering of traits supporting ancestral categories. Sources downplaying such variances often prioritize anti-stereotyping narratives over data, as seen in non-peer-reviewed debunkings, whereas dermatological research underscores the biological reality. Evolutionary misconceptions further distort understanding, such as claims that curly hair signifies primitiveness or inferiority compared to straight variants. Thermoregulatory modeling demonstrates that tightly curled hair optimally balances solar protection and heat dissipation in equatorial climates: its lofted structure minimizes radiative heat gain (reducing scalp temperature by up to 4-5°C under sunlight) while permitting sweat evaporation, a causal mechanism enabling larger brain sizes without overheating risks in early Homo lineages. Straight hair, evolved in cooler or arid northern latitudes, likely aids in sebum conduction for moisture retention and insulation against cold winds. These adaptations align with migration histories and genetic divergence post-Out-of-Africa, where relaxed tropical selection permitted shifts; denying their racial correlations ignores pleiotropic effects (e.g., EDAR influencing multiple ectodermal traits) and fossil scalp imprints suggesting ancestral curliness. Peer-reviewed simulations refute universal superiority, highlighting context-specific fitness over value-laden hierarchies.

Health and Disorders

Common Hair Loss Conditions

Androgenetic alopecia, also known as male or female pattern hair loss, represents the most prevalent form of , affecting approximately 50% of men and 50% of women by age 50 due to a genetically determined sensitivity of hair follicles to androgens, leading to progressive follicular miniaturization and thinning in characteristic patterns—receding frontal hairline and crown balding in men, and diffuse central thinning in women. This condition typically begins after and worsens gradually, with prevalence increasing with age; for instance, by age 70, up to 80% of Caucasian men experience it. Hormonal factors, particularly (DHT), bind to receptors in susceptible follicles, shortening the anagen (growth) phase and producing finer, shorter hairs until follicles cease producing visible hair. Alopecia areata is an autoimmune disorder causing patchy, nonscarring hair loss by targeting hair follicles, with a prevalence of 0.1-0.2% in the general population and a lifetime risk of about 1.7%; it affects all ages but peaks in the third and fourth decades, showing no strong sex predominance though slightly more common in women in some studies. The immune system attacks the follicular bulge region, inducing a sudden shift to the telogen (resting) phase, resulting in round or oval bald patches; variants include total scalp hair loss (alopecia totalis) or body-wide (alopecia universalis), occurring in 5-10% and less than 1% of cases, respectively. Genetic predisposition plays a key role, with associations to HLA genes and environmental triggers like stress or infections, though exact causation remains multifactorial. Telogen effluvium manifests as diffuse, nonscarring shedding of up to 300-500 hairs daily, triggered by metabolic stresses that prematurely push 20-30% of anagen hairs into telogen, typically 2-3 months post-event; it is particularly common in women, with chronic forms affecting 10-15% of those over 40. Common precipitants include postpartum hormonal shifts, severe illness (e.g., ), nutritional deficiencies (, ), medications, or dysfunction, resolving spontaneously in acute cases within 6 months once the stressor abates, though persistent forms may require evaluation for underlying causes like . Other notable conditions include anagen effluvium, often from disrupting rapid-growth-phase hairs (affecting 65% of patients within weeks), and from chronic mechanical pulling (e.g., tight hairstyles), which can become irreversible if scarring occurs; these are less universally prevalent but significant in specific demographics like cancer patients or those with prolonged styling practices. across these relies on clinical , pull tests, and trichoscopy, with reserved for ambiguous cases to differentiate from scarring alopecias.

Genetic and Autoimmune Diseases

Genetic disorders of hair encompass rare inherited conditions that primarily affect hair shaft structure, growth, or pigmentation due to mutations in genes involved in production, follicle cycling, or ectodermal development. These genotrichoses often manifest as brittle, sparse, or abnormally textured hair from birth or early childhood, with autosomal dominant or recessive inheritance patterns predominating. For instance, results from heterozygous mutations in type II genes such as KRT81, KRT83, or KRT86, leading to periodic constrictions along the hair shaft resembling beads on a string, short fragile hair, and follicular , typically on the and . Uncombable hair syndrome, another structural defect, arises from biallelic mutations in genes like PADI3, TGM3, or TCHH, which encode proteins essential for hair shaft formation, causing dry, frizzy, silvery-blond hair that stands out from the scalp and resists combing, usually resolving by adolescence. Trichothiodystrophy, a multisystem ectodermal dysplasia, involves mutations in DNA repair or transcription factor genes (e.g., GTF2H5), producing sulfur-deficient, brittle "tiger tail" hair under polarized microscopy, alongside intellectual disability and photosensitivity in affected individuals. These conditions highlight disruptions in cytoskeletal integrity and protein cross-linking as causal mechanisms, with limited treatments beyond topical therapies or wigs, as gene-specific interventions remain experimental. Autoimmune diseases targeting hair follicles constitute a distinct category, where dysregulated T-cell responses attack anagen-phase follicles, inducing non-scarring or scarring alopecia. , the prototypical example, affects approximately 2% of the population lifetime and involves CD8+ cytotoxic T lymphocytes infiltrating the bulb region, mediated by interferon-γ signaling and recognition of melanocyte-associated antigens, with genetic predisposition evident in familial clustering and associations with HLA class II alleles like HLA-DRB1 and . Environmental triggers such as stress or viral infections may precipitate onset in genetically susceptible individuals, leading to patchy scalp that can progress to (complete scalp) or universalis (total body). Systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE) frequently causes diffuse non-scarring or scarring alopecia from perifollicular inflammation, impacting up to 50% of patients due to autoantibodies and immune complex deposition. Autoimmune thyroiditis, including Hashimoto's disease, contributes to hair thinning via hypothyroidism-induced metabolic shifts, with antithyroid antibodies correlating to severity in observational studies. Unlike purely genetic structural defects, autoimmune etiologies respond variably to immunomodulators like JAK inhibitors (e.g., , approved in 2022 for severe ), underscoring cytokine pathways like IL-15 and JAK-STAT as therapeutic targets, though relapse rates remain high without addressing underlying autoimmunity. Comorbidities with other autoimmune conditions, such as , further implicate shared polygenic risk loci in NKG2D ligand expression on follicles.

Recent Advances in Treatment

In 2023, the U.S. (FDA) approved (Litfulo), a selective Janus kinase 3 (JAK3) and tyrosine kinase 2 (TYK2) inhibitor, for the treatment of severe in patients aged 12 years and older, marking the second oral JAK inhibitor for this autoimmune condition following baricitinib's approval in 2022. Clinical trials demonstrated that 32-35% of patients on the 50 mg dose achieved at least 80% scalp hair coverage (SALT score ≤20) by week 24, with long-term extension data from the ALLEGRO trial showing 90% maintenance of this response over 36-38 months and complete regrowth in about 30% of participants. Safety profiles include risks of infections, , and elevated , though serious adverse events remain low at around 5-10% in trials. Deuruxolitinib (Leqselvi), a topical JAK1/JAK2 inhibitor, received FDA approval in July 2024 for adults with severe , offering a non-systemic alternative with phase 3 trial results showing 30-35% of patients achieving SALT ≤20 at 24 weeks compared to 2% on . This approval expands options for patients intolerant to oral therapies, as deuruxolitinib targets cytokine signaling pathways implicated in immune attack without broad . Ongoing studies confirm durable efficacy up to 52 weeks, though common side effects include application-site reactions and mild infections. Emerging -based approaches, including adipose-derived (ADSC) conditioned media and exosomes, have shown preliminary efficacy in androgenetic alopecia, with a 2025 study reporting improved hair density in 95% of mild-to-moderate cases treated via , attributed to paracrine factors stimulating follicle regeneration. A June 2025 trial using allogenic ADSCs supplemented with ATP in mice models demonstrated enhanced regrowth cycles, suggesting potential for translation by prolonging anagen phase. However, these remain investigational, with trials limited to small cohorts and lacking large-scale randomized controls; a ongoing phase 2 study for mesenchymal s in male-pattern baldness reports 29% density increase but highlights variability due to donor cell quality. A February 2025 discovery identified a subpopulation of stem cells responsive to mechanical signals, depletion of which halts regrowth, paving the way for targeted activation therapies to reverse follicle in baldness. While not yet clinical, this underscores causal roles of niches over hormonal factors alone, contrasting with traditional views emphasizing DHT sensitivity. No new FDA approvals for androgenetic alopecia emerged by mid-2025 beyond refined delivery of and , though combination regimens with yield 20-30% better density in meta-analyses.

Care and Manipulation

Natural Maintenance Practices

Natural maintenance practices for hair prioritize the preservation of the scalp's endogenous sebum production and the hair shaft's structural integrity through minimal intervention, avoiding synthetic detergents and excessive manipulation that can disrupt the natural barrier. Sebum, composed primarily of triglycerides, wax esters, and , coats the hair to prevent moisture loss and microbial overgrowth, with over-washing stripping these and leading to dryness and breakage. Dermatological guidelines recommend washing hair 2-3 times per week using lukewarm and mild, pH-balanced cleansers to maintain this barrier without inducing compensatory overproduction of oils. Application of plant-derived oils, such as coconut or jojoba, supports maintenance by mimicking sebum's composition and reducing protein loss during aqueous exposure. Coconut oil penetrates the hair cortex due to its medium-chain fatty acids, forming a protective layer that decreases swelling and damage from hygroscopic absorption, as demonstrated in penetration studies on damaged fibers. Jojoba oil, chemically similar to human sebum with its wax esters, limits protein efflux and enhances follicle hydration without clogging pores. Traditional oiling regimens, involving weekly scalp application followed by gentle combing, have been linked to improved tensile strength in observational practices, though randomized trials emphasize moderation to avoid buildup. Scalp massage, performed daily for 4-10 minutes with fingertips, promotes localized circulation and may increase hair thickness by stretching dermal papilla cells, per a 2016 study on standardized techniques showing measurable gains after 24 weeks. Evidence remains preliminary, with self-reported regrowth in androgenetic alopecia cohorts correlating to massage duration but not universally replicated. Nutritional adequacy underpins natural hair resilience, as deficiencies in iron, , , and impair keratin synthesis and follicle cycling. , prevalent in 20-30% of premenopausal women, correlates with via reduced oxygen delivery to follicles, reversible with dietary replenishment from sources like . Excess supplementation, however, risks toxicity, as seen with selenium overload inducing loss. Prioritizing whole foods—leafy greens for , nuts for —over isolates sustains without confounding absorption dynamics. Gentle detangling with wide-tooth combs from ends upward minimizes mechanical stress, preserving cuticular integrity, while air-drying avoids thermal denaturation of bonds. These practices, grounded in biophysical properties of hair as a dead filament reliant on vitality, yield sustained health absent aggressive alterations.

Chemical and Mechanical Styling

Chemical styling involves altering hair structure through reactive agents that target bonds in , the primary protein comprising the hair shaft. In perming, reducing agents such as or glycerol monothioglycolate break these bonds, allowing hair to be reshaped around before neutralization reforms them in the new configuration; this process can weaken hair fibers, leading to increased porosity and breakage if overprocessed. Hair relaxers, commonly using (lye-based) or hydroxide (no-lye), hydrolyze bonds to straighten tightly coiled hair, but studies report adverse effects including 40% incidence of thinning or breakage, 67% frizziness, and inflammation from caustic levels exceeding 13. These treatments release fumes irritating to eyes and during application, with prolonged exposure linked to and, in rare cases, from absorbed metabolites like . Oxidative hair dyes employ to generate free radicals that penetrate the cortex, oxidizing for color deposition while potentially degrading cystine residues, resulting in cumulative fiber fragility and contact allergies in up to 1-2% of users. Bleaching amplifies this by higher concentrations (typically 6-12%), causing cortex swelling, lifting, and up to 50% tensile strength loss after repeated applications, as disulfide bonds convert to cysteic acid. Epidemiological data associate frequent use with elevated risk ( 2.1 in Black women applying ≥4 times yearly), though causation remains unestablished and confounded by socioeconomic factors; no similar consensus exists for dyes despite hypotheses. Mechanical styling induces physical stress on hair, primarily through and thermal energy disrupting hydrogen and ionic bonds without chemical alteration. Brushing or combing generates shear forces that abrade the , increasing and split ends, with daily friction from synthetic bristles exacerbating damage over natural ones. tools like flat irons (reaching 180-230°C) and blow dryers denature α-keratin above 200°C, collapsing protein helices and reducing elasticity by 30-50%, while rapid drying induces bubble fractures from steam expansion in the cortex. Tight hairstyles impose traction, contributing to marginal alopecia via follicular , observed in 20-30% of chronic users. Combined heat and tension, as in straightening, amplifies weakening, with virgin hair losing up to 70% modulus after 10 styling cycles at 200°C. Protective measures, such as heat-activated polymers forming sacrificial films, mitigate but do not eliminate denaturation.

Removal Techniques

techniques encompass temporary depilation methods that sever or dissolve the hair shaft above the skin surface and epilation methods that extract hair from the root, as well as semi-permanent and permanent approaches targeting the follicle. Temporary methods provide short-term results requiring frequent repetition, while permanent options aim for long-lasting reduction through follicle destruction, though complete permanence is rare and often necessitates maintenance. Shaving involves using a to cut the hair shaft at or near the skin level, offering immediate results that last 1-3 days as stubble regrows visibly. It is quick, inexpensive, and painless but carries risks of nicks, cuts, razor burn, and ingrown hairs due to blunt regrowth edges. Waxing applies warm or to adhere to hairs, then pulls them out from the upon removal, yielding smoother skin lasting 3-6 weeks with finer regrowth over time. Benefits include longer duration compared to shaving, but it causes pain, potential skin lifting in sensitive areas, , and ingrown hairs; contraindications apply for those with thin skin or certain medications increasing . Plucking or tweezing manually extracts individual hairs from the follicle using , suitable for small areas like eyebrows, with results lasting weeks but prone to trauma, , and scarring if overdone. Mechanical epilators, resembling electric , automate this for larger areas, providing 2-4 weeks of smoothness at the cost of discomfort and higher risk. Chemical depilatories employ thioglycolate-based creams to chemically break bonds in the hair shaft, dissolving it near the surface for results lasting a few days to a week. They are painless and easy for home use but demand patch testing due to risks of allergic reactions, chemical burns, and irritation from prolonged exposure or improper . Efficacy varies by hair thickness, with coarser hairs resisting dissolution. Electrolysis delivers an via a probe inserted into each follicle to destroy the dermal papilla, recognized by the FDA as the only method for permanent , effective across all hair and types. Sessions target one hair at a time, requiring multiple treatments (e.g., 15-30 per area) over months; side effects include temporary redness, swelling, and rare scarring or if hygiene is poor. Success rates approach 100% with complete protocols, though operator skill is critical. Laser hair removal uses concentrated light beams (e.g., , alexandrite, or Nd:YAG wavelengths) absorbed by in the to generate heat, damaging the bulb and bulge for delayed regrowth; it achieves 70-90% long-term reduction after 6-8 sessions spaced 4-6 weeks apart. Best for dark hair on light skin, it risks burns, , or in darker skin tones or with improper settings; permanence is not guaranteed, with maintenance needed every 6-12 months. Intense pulsed light (IPL) emits broad-spectrum light filtered to target , similar to but less focused, yielding 50-80% hair reduction after multiple treatments. It shares laser benefits and risks, including suboptimal efficacy on light or gray hairs and potential epidermal damage; home IPL devices show consistent but variable results in randomized trials.

Industry Practices and Health Risks

The hair care industry employs a range of chemical treatments, including oxidative dyes for coloring, alkaline relaxers for straightening, and -based smoothing products, often applied in salons with activation to alter hair structure. These practices frequently involve aromatic amines in dyes and releasers in keratin treatments, which can penetrate the and hair shaft, leading to potential systemic absorption. Industry standards, regulated by bodies like the FDA, permit certain levels of these substances, but enforcement varies, with some products exceeding safe emission thresholds during application. Hair dyes, used by approximately 70% of women over 50 in Western countries, contain precursors like p-phenylenediamine that generate reactive intermediates during oxidation, associated with in up to 4% of users and rare severe allergic reactions. Epidemiological studies have linked frequent personal use of darker permanent dyes to modestly elevated risks of (odds ratio 1.2-1.5 in some cohorts) and , though systematic reviews note inconsistent evidence for causation due to confounding factors like and genetic variability in . For occupational exposure among hairdressers, meta-analyses indicate a slight increase in risk (standardized incidence ratio 1.3), attributed to chronic low-level inhalation of volatile amines, but no strong links to reproductive cancers after adjusting for lifestyle. Chemical relaxers, predominantly lye-based () or no-lye formulations with carbonate, break bonds in curly hair for straightening, a practice common in certain demographics where frequent use correlates with a 1.3- to 4-fold higher risk in observational studies of over 33,000 women, potentially via endocrine-disrupting parabens and absorbed through the . These associations persist after controlling for socioeconomic factors, though prospective causation remains unestablished, with criticisms of in self-reported exposure data. treatments releasing upon heating have prompted FDA warnings since 2011, documenting over 80 adverse events including eye irritation, respiratory distress, and headaches from airborne emissions exceeding 0.1 ppm OSHA limits in salons. , a known , poses acute risks like exacerbation and chronic concerns for nasopharyngeal cancer in high-exposure settings. Shampoos and conditioners commonly incorporate like for cleansing and preservatives such as parabens to prevent microbial growth, with daily use leading to irritation in sensitive individuals and potential endocrine effects from alkyl parabens mimicking , though randomized trials show minimal systemic absorption at cosmetic concentrations. Salon environments amplify risks for stylists, with airborne chemicals causing dry eye, , and respiratory symptoms in 20-50% of workers per cross-sectional surveys, exacerbated by poor ventilation. Transmission of infections like and fungal conditions also occurs via shared tools, underscoring lapses despite regulatory guidelines. Overall, while acute toxicities dominate reported harms, long-term cancer risks require further longitudinal data to disentangle from behavioral confounders.

Cultural and Social Dimensions

Symbolic and Status Indicators

Hair has long functioned as a visible marker of social hierarchy, with styles and grooming practices reflecting the resources available to elites for maintenance and adornment. Elaborate coiffures, requiring skilled attendants and substantial time, distinguished from commoners engaged in manual labor that precluded such vanities. In , affluent women sported towering hairstyles secured with bodkins and supplemented by sewn hair extensions, signaling their command over servants and leisure. In 17th-century Europe, powdered wigs epitomized aristocratic prestige, particularly under , who by 1673 mandated periwigs at court to project virility amid widespread baldness from and treatments; these voluminous, curled confections denoted rank, as their production demanded imported human hair and expert wig-makers, affordable only to the upper classes. Louis XIII had earlier popularized shoulder-length wigs to conceal personal , establishing them as emblems of power and refined living. Feudal Japanese adopted the —a shaved crown with a bound topknot—initially for secure helmet fit in battle, but by the , it symbolized unwavering discipline, honor, and warrior caste identity, with deviations punishable as dishonor. In pre-colonial African communities, intricate braids and sculpted styles encoded tribal affiliation, age, , and rank, their complexity indicating access to specialized hairdressers and thus elevated socioeconomic position. Symbolically, lustrous long hair often connoted vitality and fertility across cultures, while ritual alterations like cropping or tonsuring marked transitions in status, such as or ; Queen Elizabeth I of reinforced monarchical authority through her signature red wigs in the late , possessing dozens to sustain an image of youthful vigor and divine right.

Religious and Traditional Significance

In , uncut hair (kesh) constitutes one of the five articles of faith (kakars) mandated for initiated adherents, symbolizing acceptance of the body's natural state as a divine gift and rejection of ego-driven alteration. This practice, instituted by in 1699 during the formation of the , underscores spiritual discipline and uniformity among believers, with hair typically coiled under a (dastar) to maintain cleanliness and order. Orthodox Judaism prescribes that men avoid trimming the (sidelocks), derived from :27's prohibition against rounding the "corners of your head," interpreted by rabbinic tradition as preserving hair at the temples to distinguish from pagan customs and affirm covenantal identity. Married Jewish women traditionally cover their hair with a scarf, hat, or (sheitel) post-wedding, rooted in interpretations of Numbers 5:18 and emphasizing modesty () by concealing what is deemed an aspect of private beauty. In , women's hair covering via aligns with Quranic injunctions in Surah An-Nur (24:31) urging concealment of adornments, including hair, to promote modesty and avert temptation, a practice varying by sect and culture but upheld as (obligatory) by many scholars since the 7th century CE. Men are encouraged to trim mustaches short while allowing beards to grow, per hadiths attributed to , such as 5892, symbolizing masculinity and piety without excess. Hindu traditions often involve head-shaving (tonsure or mundan) as a rite of purification and devotion, performed at temples like Tirupati where over 500,000 pilgrims annually offer hair since the 10th century, signifying surrender of vanity and ego to deities such as Vishnu; ascetics (sadhus) conversely maintain long, matted locks (jata) to embody renunciation and channel spiritual energy, as exemplified in Shaivite lore. Among some Christian denominations, such as the Amish and certain Orthodox groups, uncut beards for men reflect adherence to Leviticus 19:27 and Matthew 5:36's warnings against oaths involving head alterations, denoting separation from worldly vanity; 1 Corinthians 11:5-15 posits women's long hair as a natural veil of glory, influencing head-covering practices in prayer among conservative sects until the 20th century. Biblical narratives, like Samson's strength residing in his uncut hair (Judges 16:17), underscore hair's symbolic potency in ancient Israelite theology. Indigenous North American cultures, including Lakota and tribes, regard long hair as an extension of thought and spirit, cut only upon profound loss or transition—such as mourning deaths—to release energy and mark renewal, a custom persisting pre-colonially and documented in oral histories emphasizing hair's role in personal power (wakan). In Papua New Guinea's Huli , men cultivate human hair wigs (dye), grown over 18-24 months and styled with feathers and pigments for rites, signifying manhood and clan status since ancestral times.

Modern Controversies and Industry Critiques

Chemical hair relaxers, commonly used to straighten curly or coily hair, have faced significant scrutiny since a 2022 study in the Journal of the linked frequent use—defined as more than four applications per year—to a 30% increased risk of among women, particularly Black women who comprise over 80% of users in the U.S. This association stems from endocrine-disrupting chemicals such as parabens and absorbed through the scalp, with s alleging manufacturers like and failed to warn consumers despite internal knowledge of risks. By October 2025, over 10,000 plaintiffs had joined multidistrict litigation in federal court, claiming causation via prolonged exposure, though defendants contest direct proof and cite confounding factors like . Similar concerns extend to ovarian and cancers, supported by epidemiological data but requiring further causal validation beyond observational studies. Hair dyes and other coloring agents pose occupational and consumer health risks, with permanent dyes containing aromatic amines like para-phenylenediamine (PPD) classified as potential carcinogens by the International Agency for Research on Cancer. A 2025 lawsuit by a professional stylist accused brands including and of after decades of exposure, alleging false representations to the FDA that carcinogenic ingredients had been removed post-1980s reforms. Epidemiological reviews indicate elevated odds ratios (up to 1.8) for frequent users, especially darker formulations with higher chemical concentrations, though absolute risks remain low and confounded by or . Broader critiques highlight persistent toxicants in shampoos and conditioners, including releasers and , linked to disruption and reproductive issues in animal models and human cohorts, despite regulatory bans in some jurisdictions. The human hair extensions market, valued at $5 billion globally in 2023, draws ethical fire for sourcing practices often involving exploitation in regions like and , where donors—frequently low-income women—receive minimal compensation (as low as $0.50 per 100 grams) amid opaque supply chains. Reports document coerced donations or theft from temples, with middlemen inflating "ethical" claims without verifiable consent or fair labor audits, exacerbating poverty cycles despite industry pledges for transparency. Marketing compounds these issues, as seen in a 2025 class-action against Nutrafol for unsubstantiated hair-growth claims relying on underpowered trials and undisclosed biases, mirroring broader sector reliance on anecdotal efficacy over randomized controlled evidence. Such practices prioritize profit over rigorous testing, with FDA warnings against unproven "miracle" restoratives underscoring the gap between hype and empirical outcomes.

References

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