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Mosul
Mosul
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Mosul[a] is a major city in northern Iraq, serving as the capital of Nineveh Governorate. It is the second largest city in Iraq overall after the capital Baghdad. Situated on the banks of Tigris, the city encloses the ruins of the ancient Assyrian city of Nineveh—once the largest city in the world—on its east side.[6]

Key Information

Due to its strategic and central location, the city has traditionally served as a hub of international commerce and travel in the region. It is considered as one of the historically and culturally significant cities of the Arab world. The North Mesopotamian Arabic spoken in Mosul is known as Maslawi and is widely spoken in the region. Together with the Nineveh Plains, Mosul is a historical center of the Assyrians. The surrounding region is ethnically and religiously diverse; a large majority of the city is Arabs, with Kurds, Assyrians, Turkmens, Shabaks, and other minorities comprising the population. Sunni Islam is the largest religion but there are a sizeable number of Christians and Yazidis as well as adherents of other Muslim sects such as Twelver Shi'ism and Shabakism, and in the past, Iraqi Jews.[7] Mosul and its surrounding region are significant in biblical history.[citation needed]

The metropolitan area has grown from the old city on the western side to encompass substantial areas on both the "Left Bank" (east side) and the "Right Bank" (west side), as locals call the two respective sides of the Tigris. Historically, essential products of the area included marble and oil. The region around Mosul is rich in oil reserves. Mosul is home to the University of Mosul and its renowned Medical College, one of the Middle East's largest educational and research centers. The city is also home to historic mosques, Christian sites, synagogues and Yazidi temples.[citation needed]

Etymology

[edit]

In its current Arabic form and spelling (الموصل), the term Mosul (or rather Mawsil) means "linking point", or, loosely, "Junction City". On the city's eastern side are the ruins of the ancient city of Nineveh, and Assyrians still call the entire city Nineveh (or Ninweh).[7]

An early settlement, possibly on the site of the current city of Mosul, was first mentioned by Xenophon in his expeditionary logs of Achaemenid Assyria in 401 BC, during the reign of the Persian Achaemenid Empire. There, he notes a small Assyrian town of "Mépsila" (Ancient Greek: Μέψιλα) on the Tigris, near where Mosul is today (Anabasis, III.iv.10). It may be safer to identify Xenophon's Mépsila with the site of Iski Mosul, or "Old Mosul," about 30 km (19 mi) north of modern Mosul, where six centuries after Xenophon's report, the Sasanian Empire's center of Budh-Ardhashir was built.[where?]

Mosul is also nicknamed al-Faiha ("the Paradise"), al-Khaḍrah ("the Green"), and al-Hadbah ("the Humped"). It is sometimes called "The Pearl of the North"[8] and "the city of a million soldiers."[9]

History

[edit]

Ancient era and early Middle Ages

[edit]
Dair Mar Elia south of Mosul, Iraq's oldest monastery of the Assyrian Church of the East, dating from the 6th century. It was destroyed by IS in 2014

The area where Mosul lies was an integral part of Assyria from as early as the 25th century BC. After the Akkadian Empire (2335–2154 BC), which united all the peoples of Mesopotamia under one rule, Mosul again became a continuous part of Assyria proper from circa 2050 BC through the fall of the Neo-Assyrian Empire between 612 and 599 BC. Mosul remained within the geopolitical province of Assyria for another 13 centuries (as a part of Achaemenid Assyria, Seleucid, Roman Assyria) until the early Muslim conquests of the mid-7th century. During the Roman–Parthian period, the Arab Kingdom of Hatra rose to prominence, flourishing as a major political and cultural center and serving as a buffer state between the two empires,[10][11] before being destroyed by the Sasanian Empire.[12] Afterward, the region became part of the Sasanian province of Arbāyistān.[13] After the Muslim conquests, the region saw a gradual influx of Muslim Arab, Kurdish, and Turkic peoples, although indigenous Assyrians continued to use the name Athura for the ecclesiastical province.[citation needed]

Nineveh was one of the oldest and most significant cities in antiquity and was settled as early as 6000 BC.[14] The city is mentioned in the Old Assyrian Empire (2025–1750 BC) and during the reign of Shamshi-Adad I (1809–1776 BC) it was listed as a center of worship of the goddess Ishtar, remaining so during the Middle Assyrian Empire (1365–1056 BC). During the Neo-Assyrian Empire (911–605 BC), Nineveh grew in size and importance, particularly from the reigns of Tukulti-Ninurta II and Ashurnasirpal II (883–859 BC) onward; he chose the city of Kalhu (the Biblical Calah, modern Nimrud) as his capital in place of the ancient traditional capital of Aššur (Ashur), 30 km (19 mi) from present-day Mosul.[citation needed]

Thereafter, successive Assyrian emperor-monarchs, such as Shalmaneser III, Adad-nirari III, Tiglath-Pileser III, Shalmaneser V and Sargon II, continued to expand the city. Around 700 BC, King Sennacherib made Nineveh Assyria's new capital. Immense building work was undertaken, and Nineveh eclipsed Babylon, Kalhu and Aššur in size and importance, making it the largest city in the world. Many scholars believe the Hanging Gardens of Babylon were at Nineveh.[15]

The mound of Kuyunjik in Mosul is the site of the palaces of King Sennacherib and his successors Esarhaddon, Ashurbanipal, (who established the Library of Ashurbanipal), Ashur-etil-ilani, Sin-shumu-lishir and Sin-shar-ishkun. The Assyrian Empire began to unravel in 626 BC, being consumed by a decade of brutal internal civil wars, significantly weakening it. A war-ravaged Assyria was attacked in 616 BC by a vast coalition of its former subjects, most notably their Babylonian relations from southern Mesopotamia, together with the Medes, Persians, Chaldeans, Scythians, Cimmerians, and Sagartians. Nineveh fell after a siege and bitter house-to-house fighting in 612 BC during the reign of Sin-shar-ishkun, who was killed defending his capital. His successor, Ashur-uballit II, fought his way out of Nineveh and formed a new Assyrian capital at Harran (now in southeastern Turkey).[citation needed]

Mosul (then the Assyrian town of Mepsila, founded by the former inhabitants out of the ruins of their former capital) later succeeded Nineveh as the Tigris bridgehead of the road that linked Assyria and Anatolia with the short-lived Median Empire and succeeding Achaemenid Empire (546–332 BC), where it was a part of the geopolitical province of Athura (Assyria), where the region, and Assyria in general, saw a significant economic revival.[citation needed]

Mosul became part of the Seleucid Empire after Alexander's conquests in 332 BC. While little is known of the city from the Hellenistic period, Mosul likely belonged to the Seleucid satrapy of Syria, the Greek term for Assyria ("Syria" originally meaning Assyria rather than the modern nation of Syria), which the Parthian Empire conquered circa 150 BC.[citation needed]

Mosul changed hands again with the rise of the Sasanian Empire in 225 and became a part of the Sasanian province of Arbāyistān, which bordered Asoristan to the south, Adiabene to the east, and Armenia to the north, and extended westward roughly along a line from Amida past Singara to the Khabur River and Dura-Europos.[13] Christianity was present among the indigenous Assyrian people in Mosul as early as the 1st century, although the ancient Mesopotamian religion remained strong until the 4th century. It became an episcopal seat of the Assyrian Church of the East in the 6th century.[citation needed]

In 637 (other sources say 641), during the period of the Caliph Umar, Mosul was annexed to the Rashidun Caliphate by Utba ibn Farqad al-Sulami during the early Arab Muslim invasions and conquests, after which Assyria dissolved as a geopolitical entity.[citation needed]

9th century to 1535

[edit]
A Persian miniature depicting the siege of Mosul in 1261–63 from: Rashid-al-Din Hamadani, Jami' al-tawarikh, Bibliothèque Nationale de France

In the late 9th century the Turkic dynasts Ishaq ibn Kundaj and his son Muhammad seized control over Mosul, but in 893 Mosul came once again under the direct control of the Abbasid Caliphate. In the early 10th century Mosul came under the control of the native Arab Hamdanid dynasty. From Mosul, the Hamdanids under Abdallah ibn Hamdan and his son Nasir al-Dawla expanded their control over Upper Mesopotamia for several decades, first as governors of the Abbassids and later as de facto independent rulers. A century later they were supplanted by the Uqaylid dynasty.[16]

Mosul was conquered by the Seljuk Empire in the 11th century. After a period under semi-independent atabeg such as Mawdud, in 1127 it became the centre of power of the Zengid dynasty. Saladin besieged the city of Mosul unsuccessfully in 1182 After his conquest of Aleppo in 1183, ending Zengid rule in Syria, Saladin made a last offensive against Mosul in late 1185, hoping for an easy victory over the presumably demoralized Zengid Emir of Mosul Mas'ud, but failed due to the city's unexpectedly stiff resistance and a serious illness which caused Saladin to withdraw to Harran. Upon Abbasid encouragement, Saladin and Mas'ud negotiated a treaty in March 1186 that left the Zengids in control of Mosul, but under the obligation to supply the Ayyubids with military support when requested.[17] The city remained in control of the Zengids, until Badr al-Din Lu'lu' took over from 1234 to 1259.

During the final stages of the Mongol invasion of Persia and Mesopotamia, in 1258, while about 80 years old, Badr al-Din Lu'lu' went in person to Meraga to offer his submission to the Mongol invader Hulagu.[18] Badr al-Din helped the Khan in his following campaigns in Syria. Mosul was spared destruction, but Badr al-Din died shortly thereafter in 1259.[18] Badr al-Din's son continued in his father's steps, but after the Mongol defeat in the Battle of Ain Jalut (1260) against the Mamluks, he sided with the latter and revolted against the Mongols. Hulagu then besieged the city of Mosul for nine month, and destroyed it in 1262.[18][19][20]

Later Mosul regained some importance but never recovered its original splendor. Mosul was thenceforth ruled by the Mongol Ilkhanate and Jalairid Sultanate and escaped Timur's destructions. In 1165, Benjamin of Tudela passed through Mosul. He wrote about a Jewish community of about 7,000 people led by Rabbi Zakkai, presumed to be a scion of the Davidic line. In 1288–89, when the Exilarch was in Mosul, he signed a supporting paper for Maimonides.[21][22] In the early 16th century, Mosul was under the Turkmen federation of the Ağ Qoyunlu, but in 1508 it was conquered by the Safavid dynasty of Iran.

Metalworking hub

[edit]
The Blacas ewer, made by Shuja' ibn Man'a in Mosul in 1232, is one of the most famous brass pieces from Mosul

In the 13th century, Mosul had a flourishing industry making luxury brass items that were ornately inlaid with silver.[23]: 283–6  Many of these items survive today; in fact, of all medieval Islamic artifacts, Mosul brasswork has the most epigraphic inscriptions.[24]: 12  However, the only reference to this industry in contemporary sources is the account of Ibn Sa'id, an Andalusian geographer who traveled through the region around 1250.[23]: 283–4  He wrote that "there are many crafts in the city, especially inlaid brass vessels which are exported (and presented) to rulers".[23]: 284  These were expensive items that only the wealthiest could afford, and it wasn't until the early 1200s that Mosul had the demand for large-scale production of them.[23]: 285  Mosul was then a wealthy, prosperous capital city, first for the Zengids and then for Badr al-Din Lu'lu'.[23]: 285 

The origins of Mosul's inlaid brasswork industry are uncertain.[24]: 52  The city had an iron industry in the late 10th century, when al-Muqaddasi recorded that it exported iron and iron goods like buckets, knives and chains.[24]: 52  However, no surviving metal objects from Mosul are known before the early 13th century.[24]: 52  Inlaid metalworking in the Islamic world was first developed in Khurasan in the 12th century by silversmiths facing a shortage of silver.[24]: 52–3  By the mid-12th century, Herat in particular had gained a reputation for its high-quality inlaid metalwork.[24]: 53  The practice of inlaying "required relatively few tools" and the technique spread westward, perhaps by Khurasani artisans moving to other cities.[24]: 53 

By the turn of the 13th century, the silver-inlaid-brass technique had reached Mosul.[24]: 53  A pair of engraved brass flabella found in Egypt and possibly made in Mosul are dated by a Syriac inscription to the year 1202, which would make them the earliest known Mosul brasses with a definite date (although they are not inlaid with anything).[24]: 49–50  One extant item may be even older: an inlaid ewer by the master craftsman Ibrahim ibn Mawaliya is of an unknown date, but D.S. Rice estimated that it was made around 1200.[24]: 53  Production of inlaid brasswork in Mosul may have already begun before the turn of the century.[24]: 53–4 

The body of Mosul metalwork significantly expands in the 1220s – several signed and dated items are known from this decade, which according to Julian Raby "probably reflects the craft's growing status and production."[24]: 54  In the two decades from roughly 1220 to 1240, the Mosul brass industry saw "rapid innovations in technique, decoration, and composition".[24]: 54  Artisans were inspired by miniature paintings produced in the Mosul area.[24]: 54  Mosul seems to have become predominant among Muslim centers of metalwork in the early 13th century.[24]: 53  Evidence is partial and indirect – relatively few objects which directly state where they were made exist, and in the rest of cases it depends on nisbahs.[24]: 53  However, al-Mawsili is by far the most common nisbah; only two others are attested: al-Is'irdi (referring to someone from Siirt) and al-Baghdadi.[24]: 53  There are, however, some scientific instruments inlaid with silver that were made in Syria during this period, with the earliest being 1222/3 (619 AH).[24]: 53  Instability after the death of Badr al-Din Lu'lu' in 1259, and especially the Mongol siege and capture of Mosul in July 1262, probably caused a decline in Mosul's metalworking industry.[24]: 54  There is a relative lack of known metalwork from the Jazira in the late 1200s; meanwhile, an abundance of metalwork from Mamluk Syria and Egypt is attested from this same period.[24]: 54  This doesn't necessarily mean that production in Mosul ended, though, and some extant objects from this period may have been made in Mosul.[24]: 54–5 

Ewer from Mosul, 1246–1247 CE[25][26]
Homberg ewer. Inlaid Brass with Christian Iconography. probably Mosul, dated 1242–43[27]

The earliest definite evidence of Mawsili craftsmen emigrating westward to Mamluk Syria and Egypt dates from the 1250s.[24]: 23, 54  Extant Mawsili works from these regions seem to be the result of one particular family setting up workshops in Damascus and then Cairo rather than a mass movement of Mosul artisans to those cities.[24]: 37  Five Mawsili craftsmen are known from these two cities in the late 13th century, of which 3 or 4 are members of this same family.[24]: 37  The first is Husayn ibn Muhammad al-Mawsili, who produced the earliest known silver-inlaid work from Damascus in the late 1250s.[24]: 39  His presumed son, Ali ibn Husayn ibn Muhammad al-Mawsili, was active in Cairo several decades later.[24]: 37–9  However, the earliest known silver-inlaid brasswork from Cairo belongs to another presumed member of this family, Muhammad ibn Hasan.[24]: 37–9  His one known work, a candlestick dated to 1269, has an inscription which suggests he died before it was completed.[24]: 39  The "key figure" for early Mamluk metalwork in Cairo, however, was Ali ibn Husayn.[24]: 39  His works from the 1280s both show Mosul influence as well as a different "early Mamluk" style.[24]: 39 

A final member was Husayn ibn Ahmad ibn Husayn, a grandson of Husayn ibn Muhammad, who was active at the turn of the 14th century and made "a major work" for the Rasulid sultan al-Mu'ayyad Hizabr al-Din Dawud ibn Yusuf.[24]: 42–4  This family appears to have initiated "two of the most characteristic features of 14th-century Mamluk metalwork: large-scale inspirational candlesticks, and large multi-lobed medallions with a wide border that eventually became filled with flying ducks".[24]: 42  Mosul metalwork eventually influenced a tradition of metal inlay in Fars and elsewhere in western Iran in the 14th century.[24]: 55  The Ilkhanids rounding up artisans and gathering them in their capital of Tabriz for centralized royal production may have played a role in this transmission.[24]: 55  Only two items are definitively known to have been produced in Mosul.[24]: 23  The first is the Blacas ewer, made by Shuja' ibn Man'a in 1232, and the second is a silver-inlaid pen box made by Ali ibn Yahya in 1255/6 (653 AH).[24]: 12, 23  No other works by either craftsman are known.[24]: 23  They form part of the broader Mosul work which consists of 35 known surviving brasses made by artisans with the nisbah al-Mawsili, by some 27 different makers.[24]: 22  80% of them are from the years 1220 to 1275, and the remaining 20% are from 1275 to about 1325.[24]: 23 

Modern western scholarship has termed this body of metalwork attributed to Mosul the "Mosul School", although the validity of this grouping is disputed.[23]: 283  The "indiscriminate" attribution of silver-inlaid brasses to Mosul,[23]: 283  particularly by Gaston Migeon at the turn of the 20th century, led to a reaction against the term.[24]: 13  Later scholars such as Max van Berchem, Mehmet Ağa-Oğlu, and D.S. Rice all took a more skeptical view; van Berchem in particular argued that only six known items could be definitely attributed to Mosul, and others were likely made elsewhere.[24]: 13–5  Souren Melikian-Chirvani remarked in 1973 that Mosul had been famous in the west for a century for metalwork it did not make.[24]: 11  However, Julian Raby has defended the concept of the Mosul School, arguing that the city did have a distinct metalworking tradition with its own techniques, styles and motifs, and sense of community.[24]: 11–2  He compared Mosul's metalwork to Kashan's pottery and wrote that "Mawsili metalworkers displayed a conscious sense of community and tradition and, at least in the early years, a proud acknowledgement of tradition" and that the city's metalwork gained a wide reputation or "brand value" lasting for over a century.[24]: 57 

Part of Raby's argument was that many items shared one or two recurring symbols that "served no practical purpose" and may have been meant as a "brand", "workshop mark", a "guild emblem", or "perhaps as a mark of master craftsmanship".[24]: 12, 31, 33, 56  The first one is an octagon filled with complex geometric patterns, which appears on at least 13 items over the course of three decades: the 1220s through the 1240s.[24]: 30–2  Several of the most important Mosul artists from what Raby terms the "second generation of Mosul metalwork" all used this symbol: Ahmad al-Dhaki, Ibn Jaldak, Shuja' ibn Man'a, Dawud ibn Salama, and Yunus ibn Yusuf.[24]: 32  A notable absence is Ibrahim ibn Mawaliya, a member of the first generation.[24]: 32  The octagon disappears after about 1250, and is also not used by workers known to have been outside Mosul.[24]: 32 

Another recurring symbol is a rosette with either 10 or 12 leaves found at the bottom of the item – either the base of a ewer or the bottom of the shaft of a candlestick.[24]: 33  This is not normally visible, and perhaps because it served no practical purpose, it was eventually abandoned around the middle of the century.[24]: 33  The last example of this rosette is the bottom of a candlestick made by Dawud ibn Salama in 1248/9 (646 AH).[24]: 33  Raby suggested that Ibrahim ibn Mawaliya "may have been a seminal figure" in the Mosul brasswork industry.[24]: 33  The particular phrasing of the "benedictory inscriptions" on his objects, bestowing good luck on their owners, is repeated in several works by other Mosul craftsmen.[24]: 33  Two assistants of Ibrahim ibn Mawaliya's are known: his tilmidh (apprentice) Isma'il ibn Ward, and his ghulam Qasim ibn Ali.[24]: 24  Ahmad al-Dhaki's workshop was possibly also "intimately connected to others in Mosul".[24]: 35 

The Mosul metalwork is the only example in the Muslim world where metalworkers recorded their relationships between masters and apprentices (tilmidh) and hirelings (ajir).[24]: 56  This was apparently a point of pride for Mosul artisans.[24]: 56  Julian Raby speculated that two elaborate but impractically tiny Mosuli objects, a tiny 6x4 cm box made by Isma'il ibn Ward and an anonymous 8-cm-tall bucket, were made as "credential work" by apprentice or journeyman metalworkers as part of a test to be accepted into a craftsman's guild.[24]: 56–7  According to Raby, the Mosul metalwork may have been part of the gifts that Badr al-Din Lu'lu' gave to other rulers to appease them as part of his realpolitik diplomacy.[24]: 29  Another notable item tentatively attributed to Mosul metalworkers is the Courtauld bag, which is believed to be the world's oldest surviving handbag. It was likely made for a noblewomen of the Ilkhanate during the early 1300s.[28]

Ottoman period

[edit]
Conquest of Mosul (Nineveh) by Mustafa Pasha in 1631, a Turkish soldier in the foreground holding a severed head. L., C. (Stecher) 1631 -1650

What started as irregular attacks in 1517 were finalized in 1538, when Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent added Mosul to his empire by capturing it from his arch-rival, Safavid Persia.[29] Thenceforth Mosul was governed by a pasha. Following its capture, Mosul was incorporated into the Baghdad Eyalet, as confirmed by imperial registers from 1558 to 1587, which list sanjaks ranging from Zakho and Erbil in the north to areas around the Mesopotamian Marshes in the south.[30] Mosul was celebrated for its line of walls, comprising seven gates with large towers, a renowned hospital (maristan) and a covered market (qaysariyya), and its fabrics and flourishing trades.

Ottoman Iraq had been acquired by the Ottoman Empire in 1555 by the Peace of Amasya, but until the Treaty of Zuhab in 1639 Ottoman control over Mesopotamia was not decisive.[31] After the Peace of Amasya, the Safavids recaptured most of Mesopotamia one more time during the reign of king Abbas I (r. 1588–1629). Among the newly appointed Safavid governors of Mesopotamia during those years was Qasem Sultan Afshar, who was appointed governor of Mosul in 1622.[32][33] Before 1638, the Ottomans considered Mosul "still a mere fortress, important for its strategic position as an offensive platform for Ottoman campaigns into Iraq, as well as a defensive stronghold and staging post guarding the approaches to Anatolia and to the Syrian coast. Then, with the Ottoman reconquest of Baghdad (1638), the liwa of Mosul became an independent wilaya."[34]: 202 

Map of Mosul in 1778, by Carsten Niebuhr

Despite being a part of the Ottoman Empire, during the four centuries of Ottoman rule Mosul was considered "the most independent district" within the Middle East, following the Roman model of indirect rule through local notables.[35]: 203–204  "Mosuli culture developed less along Ottoman–Turkish lines than along Iraqi–Arab lines; and Turkish, the official language of the State, was certainly not the dominant language in the province."[34]: 203 

In line with its status as a politically stable trade route between the Mediterranean and the Persian Gulf, Mosul developed considerably during the 17th and early 18th centuries. Like the development of the Mamluk dynasty in Baghdad, during this time "the Jalili family was establishing itself as the undisputed master of Mosul" and "helping to connect Mosul with a pre-Ottoman, pre-Turcoman, pre-Mongol, Arab cultural heritage that was to put the town on its way to recapturing some of the prestige and prominence it had enjoyed under the golden reign of Badr ad-Din Lu'lu'."[34]: 203  Along with the al-Umari and Tasin al-Mufti families, the Jalilis formed an "urban-based small and medium gentry and a new landed elite", which proceeded to displace the control of previous rural tribes.[36] Such families establish themselves through private enterprise, solidifying their influence and assets through rents on land and taxes on manufacturing.

As well as by elected officials, Mosul's social architecture was highly influenced by the Dominican fathers who arrived in Mosul in 1750, sent by Pope Benedict XIV (Mosul had a large Christian population, predominantly indigenous Assyrians).[37] In 1873 they were followed by the Dominican nuns, who established schools, health clinics, a printing press, an orphanage, and workshops to teach girls sewing and embroidery.[38] A congregation of Dominican sisters founded in the 19th century still had its motherhouse in Mosul in the early 21st century. Over 120 Assyrian Iraqi Sisters belonged to this congregation.[37]

In the 19th century the Ottoman government started to reclaim central control over its outlying provinces. Their aim was to "restore Ottoman law, and rejuvenate the military" and to revive "a secure tax base for the government".[39]: 24–26  In order to reestablish rule, in 1834 the sultan abolished public elections for governor, and began "neutraliz[ing] local families such as the Jalilis and their class"[39]: 28–29  and appointing new, non-Maslawi governors directly. In line with its reintegration within central government rule, Mosul was required to conform to new Ottoman reform legislation, including the standardization of tariff rates, the consolidation of internal taxes and the integration of the administrative apparatus with the central government.[39]: 26 

This process started in 1834 with the appointment of Bayraktar Mehmed Pasha, who was to rule Mosul for the next four years. After his reign, the Ottoman government (wishing still to restrain the influence of powerful local families) appointed a series of governors in rapid succession, ruling "for only a brief period before being sent somewhere else to govern, making it impossible for any of them to achieve a substantial local power base."[39]: 29  Mosul's importance as a trading center declined after the opening of the Suez Canal, which enabled goods to travel to and from India by sea rather than by land through Mosul. Mosul was the capital of Mosul Vilayet, one of the three vilayets (provinces) of Ottoman Iraq, with a brief break in 1623, when Persia seized the city.

1918 to 1990s

[edit]

At the end of World War I in October 1918, after the Armistice of Mudros, British forces occupied Mosul. After the war, the city and surrounding area became part of the British-occupied Iraq (1918–1920) and then Mandatory Iraq (1920–1932). This mandate was contested by Turkey, which continued to claim the area on the grounds that it was under Ottoman control during the signature of the Armistice. In the Treaty of Lausanne, the dispute over Mosul was left for future resolution by the League of Nations. In 1926, Iraq's possession of Mosul was confirmed by the League of Nations' brokered agreement between Turkey and Great Britain. Former Ottoman Mosul Vilayet became the Nineveh Governorate of Iraq, but Mosul remained the provincial capital.

Following the fall of the Ottoman Empire, many Ottoman buildings were demolished—first under the British Mandate and later under King Faisal.[40] This destruction became a pattern. Every new government tried to hide or demolish what was left by the former government.[40] After 1958, the new republican government of Abdul-Karim Qasim destroyed symbols of British and Hashemite royals in Mosul.[40] When the Baath Party came to power in 1968, they wanted to demolish symbols of the royal and republican regimes.[40] Mosul was also site of uprisings by Arab nationalists against Qasim in 1959 by Colonel Abdul-Wahab al-Saadi, which was violently suppressed and al-Saadi was executed.

Until the 1950s the Mosul plain was an important center for Chaldaean community. Like the Assyrians, many moved southwards after the 1933 massacre in Simele, which resulted death of approximately 6,000 Assyrians. In 1932 70% of the Christians lived in and around Mosul, by 1957 only 47% remained there. In 1972, the recognized cultural rights for Iraqi Christians and Assyrians. Mosul was home to a large Ba'ath Party headquarters and was an important military center. By some estimates, under Saddam Hussein, Mosul and the surrounding areas contributed over 300,000 residents to the military, security and intelligence services. Some of the high-profile leaders such as Tariq Aziz, an ethnic Assyrian and Taha Yassin Ramadan, a Kurdish Shi'a were from Mosul.

Mosul's fortunes revived with the discovery of oil in the area, from the late 1920s onward.[41] It became a nexus for the movement of oil via truck and pipeline to Turkey and Syria.[41] Qyuarrah Refinery was built within about an hour's drive from the city and was used to process tar for road-building projects.[41] The opening of the University of Mosul in 1967 enabled the education of many in the city and surrounding area.[41] The Ba'athist government nationalized oil in 1972 and used oil revenues for the city's infrastructure development and diversification of economy.[42] Mosul benefited considerably from the development of oilfields in the region.[42] It also became a hub for cement, textile and sugar industries.[42] However, the city's infrastructure was damaged but not destroyed during the Iran–Iraq War.[42]

After the 1991 uprisings, Mosul was included in the northern no-fly zone imposed and patrolled by the United States and the United Kingdom between 1991 and 2003.[43] Although this prevented Saddam's forces from mounting large-scale military operations again in the region, it did not stop his regime from implementing a steady policy of "Arabisation" by which the demography of some areas of Nineveh Governorate were gradually changed.[43] Despite this program, Mosul and its surrounding towns and villages remained home to a mixture of Arabs, Kurds, Assyrians, Armenians, Turkmens, Shabaks, a few Jews, and isolated populations of Yazidis, Mandeans, Kawliya and Circassians.[43] Saddam was able to garrison portions of the 5th Army within Mosul, had Mosul International Airport under military control, and recruited heavily from Mosul for his military's officer corps.[43] This may have been because most of the Iraqi Army officers and generals were from Mosul long before the Saddam regime.[43]

In the 1990s, under Saddam Hussein's government, the Faith Campaign was initiated to strengthen the regime's power by aligning with Salafi Islam under Izzat Ibrahim al-Douri.[40] This campaign aimed to foster support for the regime through a more visible embrace of conservative Islamic ideologies.[40] Northwest Mosul became a significant base for Salafism during this period, and other regions south of Mosul also saw rapid growth of Salafi, Wahhabi, and extremist ideologies, creating an environment conducive to their spread.[40] Saddam's government empowered tribal sheikhs from these areas, granting them significant influence in Mosul's urban population.[40] These sheikhs, with their newfound authority, helped in introduce and promote extremist views within the city.[40] Large mosques such as Mosul Grand Mosque were built.[40]

Over time, this contributed to Mosul becoming a more tribal society, where traditional legal systems were often bypassed in favor of tribal reconciliations led by sheikhs.[40] Historically, the city had been known for its conservative religious beliefs, primarily rooted in Sufism, which was considered moderate and non-extremist.[40] The coexistence of diverse religious and ethnic groups—such as Christians, Yazidis, Sunnis, Shiites, Arabs, Kurds, and women with varying degrees of religious observance—was a hallmark of the city's social fabric.[40] However, as Salafism grew stronger in Mosul, the city's identity shifted.[40] The once diverse and tolerant atmosphere became increasingly conservative and Salafi, fundamentally changing the city's character.[40] This would fuel the rise of IS in the upcoming war.[40]

21st century

[edit]

When the 2003 invasion of Iraq was being planned, the United States had originally intended to base troops in Turkey and mount a thrust into northern Iraq to capture Mosul, but the Turkish parliament refused to grant permission for the operation. When the Iraq War broke out in March 2003, U.S. military activity in the area was confined to strategic bombing with airdropped special forces in the vicinity. Mosul fell on 11 April 2003, when the Iraqi Army 5th Corps, loyal to Saddam, abandoned the city and surrendered two days after the fall of Baghdad. U.S. Army Special Forces with Kurdish fighters quickly took civil control of the city. Thereafter began widespread looting before an agreement was reached to cede overall control to U.S. forces.

Iraqi police, U.S. soldiers patrol neighborhood in Mosul, 19 March 2007
Saddam Hussein's sons Qusay and Uday were killed in a gun battle in Mosul on 22 July 2003

On 22 July, Saddam Hussein's sons, Uday Hussein and Qusay Hussein, were killed in a gun battle with Coalition forces in Mosul after a failed attempt at their capture.[44] Mosul also served as the operational base for the US Army's 101st Airborne Division during the occupational phase of the Operation Iraqi Freedom. During its tenure, the 101st Airborne Division was able to extensively survey the city and, advised by the 431st Civil Affairs Battalion, non-governmental organizations, and the people of Mosul, began reconstruction work by employing the people of Mosul in security, electricity, local governance, drinking water, wastewater, trash disposal, roads, bridges, and environmental concerns.[45][46] Other U.S. Army units also occupied the city.[47]

On 24 June 2004, a coordinated series of car bombs killed 62 people, many of them policemen. On 21 December 14 American soldiers, four American employees of Halliburton, and four Iraqi soldiers were killed in a suicide attack on a dining hall at the Forward Operating Base (FOB) Marez next to the main U.S. military airfield at Mosul. The Pentagon reported that 72 other personnel were injured in the attack, carried out by a suicide bomber wearing an explosive vest and the uniform of the Iraqi security services. The Islamist group Army of Ansar al-Sunna (partly evolved from Ansar al-Islam) took responsibility for the attack in an online statement.

In December 2007, Mosul International Airport was reopened. An Iraqi Airways flight carried 152 Hajj pilgrims to Baghdad, the first commercial flight since U.S. forces declared a no-fly zone in 1993, though further commercial flight remained prohibited.[48] On 23 January 2008, an explosion in an apartment building killed 36 people. The next day, a suicide bomber dressed as a police officer assassinated the local police chief, Brigadier General Salah Mohammed al-Jubouri, the director of police for Nineveh province, as he toured the site of the blast.[49]

In May 2008, US-backed Iraqi Army Forces led by Major General Riyadh Jalal Tawfiq, the commander of military operations in Mosul, launched a military offensive of the Ninawa campaign in hopes of bringing stability and security to the city.[50] The representatives of Mosul in the Iraqi Parliament, the intellectuals of the city, and other concerned humanitarian groups agreed on the pressing need for a solution to the city's unbearable conditions, but still believed the solution was political and administrative. They also questioned whether such a large-scale military offensive would spare the lives of innocent people.[51] All these factors deprived the city of its historical, scientific and intellectual foundations between 2003 and 2008, when many scientists, professors, academics, doctors, health professionals, engineers, lawyers, journalists, religious clergy (both Muslim and Christian), historians, as well as professionals and artists, were either killed or forced to leave the city under the threat of being shot, exactly as happened elsewhere in Iraq in those years.[52][53][54][55]

Humvee down after Islamic State attack in 2014
ISOF on the street of Mosul, 16 November 2016. The city was liberated in 2017

In 2008, many Assyrian Christians (about 12,000) fled the city, following a wave of murders and threats against their community. The murder of a dozen Assyrians, threats that others would be murdered unless they converted to Islam, and the destruction of their houses sparked a rapid exodus of the Christian population. Some fled to Syria and Turkey; others were given shelter in churches and monasteries. Accusations were exchanged between Sunni fundamentalists and some Kurdish groups of being behind this new exodus. Some claims linked it to the provincial elections of January 2009, and the related Assyrian Christians' demands for broader representation in the provincial councils.[56][57]

Mosul was attacked on 4 June 2014. After six days of fighting, on 10 June the Islamic State took over the city during the June 2014 Northern Iraq offensive.[58][59][60] By August, the city's new IS administration was dysfunctional, with frequent power cuts, a tainted water supply, collapse of infrastructure, and failing health care.[61]

On 10 June 2014, the Islamic State captured Mosul, after the Iraqi troops stationed there withdrew.[62][63][64] Troop shortages and infighting among top officers and Iraqi political leaders played into IS's hands and fueled panic that led to the city's abandonment.[65] Half a million people escaped on foot or by car during the next two days.[66] According to western and pro-Iraqi government press, Mosul residents were de facto prisoners,[67] forbidden to leave the city unless they left IS a significant collateral of family members, personal wealth and property. They could then leave after paying a significant "departure tax"[68] for a three-day pass (for a higher fee they could surrender their home, pay the fee and leave for good) and if those with a three-day pass failed to return within that time, their assets would be seized and their family killed.[69]

Ali Ghaidan, a former commander of the Iraqi ground forces, accused al-Maliki of being the one who issued the order to withdraw from the city.[64] A short period of time after, Al-Maliki called for a national state of emergency on 10 June following the attack on Mosul, which had been seized overnight. Despite the security crisis, Iraq's parliament did not allow Maliki to declare a state of emergency; many legislators boycotted the session because they opposed expanding the prime minister's powers, since his reign has been described as sectarian by both Iraqis and western analysts, as well allegations of corruption, with hundreds of billions of dollars allegedly vanishing from government coffers.[70][71]

After more than two years of occupation of Mosul, Iraqi forces, with the help of American and French forces, launched a joint offensive to recapture it on 16 October 2016.[72][73] The battle was considered key in the military intervention against IS.[74][75] A military offensive to retake the city was the largest deployment of Iraqi forces since the 2003 invasion by U.S. and coalition forces[76] On 9 July 2017, Prime Minister Haider Al-Abadi arrived in preparation to announce the full liberation and reclamation of Mosul after three years of IS control.[77] A formal declaration was made on the next day.[78] The battle continued for another couple of weeks in the Old City before Iraqi forces regained full control of Mosul on 21 July 2017.[79][80] According to Kurdish intelligence, tens of thousands of civilians were killed in the battle, and most of the city was destroyed by Coalition airstrikes and Iraqi shelling.[81] Subsequently, Iranian-sponsored predominantly Shiite militias from the Popular Mobilization Units, which fought against IS, gained a foothold in the city.[75]

Demographics

[edit]
A souk (traditional market) in Mosul, 1932

According to Salahuddin Khuda Bakhsh, the Arab geographer Ibn Hawqal was at Mosul in 969 AD (358 AH) He called it a "fine town with excellent markets, surrounded by fertile districts of which the most celebrated was that round Nineveh where the Prophet Jonah was buried. In the tenth century, the population consisted of Kurds and Arabs, and the numerous districts round Mosul, occupying all Diyar Rabi'a, are carefully enumerated by Ibn Hawkal."[16][82]

In the 20th century, Mosul was indicative of Iraq's mingling ethnic and religious cultures, with a Kurdish majority.[83]

Today Mosul has a Sunni Arab majority in urban areas, such as downtown Mosul west of the Tigris; across the Tigris and further north in the suburban areas, thousands of Assyrians, Kurds, Turkmens, Shabaks, Yazidis, Armenians and Mandeans made up the rest of Mosul's population.[84] Shabaks were concentrated on the city's eastern outskirts.

Religion

[edit]
Celebration at the Syriac Orthodox Monastery in Mosul, early 20th century

Mosul has a predominantly Sunni Muslim population. The city also had an ancient Jewish population. Like their counterparts elsewhere in Iraq, most were forced out in 1950–51. Most Iraqi Jews have moved to Israel, and some to the United States.[85] In 2003, during the Iraq War, a rabbi in the American army found an abandoned, dilapidated synagogue in Mosul dating to the 13th century.[86]

During IS's occupation, religious minorities were targeted to convert to Islam, pay tribute (jizya) money, leave, or be killed.[87] The persecution of Christians in Mosul and the surrounding Nineveh Plains removed a Christian community that had been present in the region since the 1st century.[88]

Infrastructure

[edit]
View of the Tigris river in Mosul
Mosul at night

The Mosul Dam was built in the 1980s to supply Mosul with hydroelectricity and water. Despite this, water supply cuts are still common.[89]

Five bridges cross the Tigris in Mosul, known from north to south as:[90]

  • Al Shohada Bridge (or "Third Bridge")
  • Fifth Bridge
  • Old Bridge (or "Iron Bridge", or "First Bridge")
  • Al Huriya Bridge (literally "Freedom Bridge", also known as "Second Bridge"): located about 1 km north of the 4th bridge and 0.8 km south of the 1st bridge, the al-Huriya Bridge connects the neighborhoods of Bab at-Tawb on the west bank and al-Faisaliyyah on the east bank.[91]: 8, 20  It was built between 1955 and 1958 by German, French, and Dutch companies.[91]: 4  Made of steel with concrete supports, the bridge has 6 spans and is 340 m long.[91]: 4  A two-way street with one lane in each direction goes across the bridge, and there is also a sidewalk on both sides.[91]: 4  Before the bridge's destruction in 2016, an estimated 10,495 vehicles crossed the bridge per day, for a total of some 3.8 million vehicles per year.[91]: 17–8  In October 2016, a US airstrike destroyed the bridge's first span (starting from the left) along with the left-bank approach.[91]: 4  Later, bombings by the Islamic State destroyed three more spans (the 4th, 5th, and 6th) and damaged the last two (2nd and 3rd spans).[91]: 4  In the aftermath, Iraqi Army forces installed a temporary pontoon bridge 0.2 km north of the al-Huriya Bridge to provide an alternate route for commuters.[91]: 18 
  • Fourth Bridge

During the Battle of Mosul (2016–17) between IS and the Iraqi Army supported by an international coalition, two bridges were 'damaged' by coalition airstrikes in October 2016, two others in November, and the Old Bridge was 'disabled' in early December.[90] According to the BBC, in late December the bridges were targeted to disrupt the resupply of IS forces in East Mosul from West Mosul.[90] In January 2017, CNN reported that IS itself had 'destroyed' all bridges to slow the Iraqi ground troops' advance, citing Iraqi commander Lieutenant General Abdul Amir Rasheed Yarallah.[92]

Mosul is served by Mosul International Airport.

Economy

[edit]
Bab Sinjar in downtown Mosul

Mosul, the second-largest city in Iraq, was historically one of the country's most important industrial hubs, contributing significantly to the national economy.[93] It was once one of Iraq's most important industrial cities, rich in natural resources and a key contributor to the national economy.[93] Before 2014, Mosul and the surrounding Nineveh province were rich in natural resources, making the region a key player in Iraq's industrial and agricultural sectors.[93] Mosul was once a prominent commercial center, with its economy based on a mix of oil, agriculture, industrial products, and minerals.[94] The city was a key player in Iraq's economy, exporting oil as well as agricultural, industrial, and mineral products.[94] Its strategic location and rich natural resources made it one of the country's most important cities before the rise of conflict.[94]

Downtown Mosul at night

The city was known for its sulfur reserves, particularly from the Meshraq Sulfur Plant, which had an annual production capacity of one million tons of sulfur. Sulfur, a versatile mineral used in various industries including the production of military ammunition, was a major resource for Mosul.[93] During the IS occupation, large reserves of sulfur from the plant fell under the militants' control and were damaged during coalition airstrikes.[93] Despite the city's wealth in natural resources, Mosul's economy suffered immensely during the IS occupation, and many of these industries have yet to fully recover.[93] The Kurdistan Region has historically been a major importer of Mosul's natural resources, forming a close economic relationship between the two regions, especially prior to the IS occupation.[93] The economic structure of Mosul and Nineveh was heavily disrupted by the conflict, and it will take time for the region to recover fully.[93]

Old Sugar factory, south of the Ghazlani district

Mosul was also a hub for cement production, with over 1,000 factories manufacturing cement and concrete masonry units (CMU).[93] These materials were used for local construction and also supplied to other parts of Iraq prior to the IS occupation.[93] Additionally, the city was home to one of Iraq's largest sugar plants, fed by sugarcane grown in the region. This plant was a vital part of the city's industrial output.[93] The city also had a growing oil and gas sector, with a number of wells in and around Mosul.[93] However, following the IS takeover, these resources were largely abandoned or damaged, leading to a severe decline in the city's economic output.[93] Agriculturally, Mosul contributed significantly to Iraq's wheat supply. The fertile lands around the city were historically important for wheat production, contributing a substantial portion of the country's wheat before the conflict disrupted agriculture.[93]

Years before IS took control of Mosul, extremist groups like Al-Qaeda and their allies had already started to gain influence over the city's administration and economy, laying the groundwork for the economic instability that would follow.[94] When IS seized Mosul in June 2014, they looted the city's central bank, destroyed local businesses, and forcibly extracted money from business owners and farmers to fund their operations.[94] As a result, the city's economy collapsed. Many businesses were forced to close, leading to skyrocketing unemployment and increasing poverty levels.[94]

The oil fields, refineries, gas factories, and fuel stations in the region came under IS control.[94] The group monopolized the sale of oil within their territory, severely disrupting local and national markets.[94] Agricultural production also fell under IS control, with the group seizing government loans and agricultural equipment, particularly from local farmers and displaced minorities.[94] Farmers were often forced to sell their produce at significantly reduced rates.[94] The combination of reduced financial returns and a volatile security situation caused many farmers to abandon their fields, further exacerbating the economic collapse.[94]

During the last stages of the battle to retake Mosul, Lise Grande stated that per an initial assessment, basic infrastructure repair would cost over 1 billion USD. She stated that while stabilization in east Mosul could be achieved in two months, in some districts of Mosul it might take years, with six out of 44 districts almost completely destroyed. Every district of Mosul received light or moderate damage.[95] Per the United Nations, 15 of the 54 residential districts in the western half of Mosul were heavily damaged while at least 23 were moderately damaged.[96] Reconstruction has since become a multi-million dollar industry. To this day, large parts of the city are either being rebuilt or remain in ruins.[75]

Geography

[edit]

Mosul stands 223 meters above sea level in the Upper Mesopotamia region of the Middle East. To the south west of Mosul is the Syrian Desert and to the East is the Zagros Mountains. It is surrounded by the Nineveh Plains

Climate

[edit]

Mosul has a hot semi-arid climate (BSh), verging on the Mediterranean climate (Csa), with extremely hot, prolonged, dry summers, brief mild shoulder seasons, and moderately wet (and occasionally snowy), relatively cool winters.

Climate data for Mosul (1991–2020)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 21.2
(70.2)
26.9
(80.4)
31.8
(89.2)
36.5
(97.7)
43.2
(109.8)
47.4
(117.3)
49.4
(120.9)
49.3
(120.7)
46.5
(115.7)
42.2
(108.0)
32.5
(90.5)
28.4
(83.1)
49.4
(120.9)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 13.1
(55.6)
15.4
(59.7)
20.0
(68.0)
25.9
(78.6)
33.2
(91.8)
39.8
(103.6)
43.4
(110.1)
43.3
(109.9)
38.5
(101.3)
31.9
(89.4)
21.6
(70.9)
15.1
(59.2)
28.4
(83.2)
Daily mean °C (°F) 7.4
(45.3)
9.3
(48.7)
13.3
(55.9)
18.5
(65.3)
25.1
(77.2)
31.5
(88.7)
34.8
(94.6)
34.1
(93.4)
28.8
(83.8)
22.2
(72.0)
14.8
(58.6)
9.6
(49.3)
20.8
(69.4)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 2.6
(36.7)
3.8
(38.8)
7.5
(45.5)
11.5
(52.7)
16.6
(61.9)
21.7
(71.1)
25.4
(77.7)
24.8
(76.6)
20.0
(68.0)
14.6
(58.3)
7.9
(46.2)
4.1
(39.4)
13.4
(56.1)
Record low °C (°F) −17.6
(0.3)
−12.3
(9.9)
−5.8
(21.6)
−4.0
(24.8)
1.8
(35.2)
6.8
(44.2)
11.6
(52.9)
12.9
(55.2)
8.9
(48.0)
−2.6
(27.3)
−6.1
(21.0)
−15.4
(4.3)
−17.6
(0.3)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 61.6
(2.43)
53.9
(2.12)
59.4
(2.34)
46.1
(1.81)
17.5
(0.69)
1.2
(0.05)
0.2
(0.01)
0.0
(0.0)
0.6
(0.02)
12.7
(0.50)
41.7
(1.64)
61.9
(2.44)
356.8
(14.05)
Average precipitation days 11 11 12 9 6 0 0 0 0 5 7 10 71
Average relative humidity (%) 79.0 73.0 66.3 62.1 44.2 29.3 26.2 27.4 32.0 43.8 63.1 76.5 51.9
Mean monthly sunshine hours 158 165 192 210 310 363 384 369 321 267 189 155 3,083
Source 1: World Meteorological Organisation (precipitation days 1976–2008)[97][98]
Source 2: Weatherbase (extremes only),[99] Meteomanz(extremes since 2009)[100]

Historical and religious buildings

[edit]

Mosul is rich in old historical places and ancient buildings: mosques, castles, churches, monasteries, and schools, many of which have architectural features and decorative work of significance. The town centre is dominated by a maze of streets and 19th-century houses. The markets are known for the mixture of people who jostle there: Arabs, Kurds, Assyrians, Iraqi Jews, Iraqi Turkmens, Armenians, Yazidi, Mandeans, Romani and Shabaks.[citation needed]

The Mosul Museum contains many finds from the ancient sites of the old Assyrian capital cities Nineveh and Nimrud. It is laid-out around a courtyard and with a façade of Mosul marble containing displays of Mosul life depicted in tableau form.[clarification needed] On 26 February 2015, IS militants destroyed the museum's ancient Assyrian artifacts.

The English writer Agatha Christie lived in Mosul while her second husband, Max Mallowan, an archaeologist, was involved in the excavation in Nimrud.[101]

Mosques and shrines

[edit]
Great Mosque of al-Nuri after its reconstruction with its Al-Hadba minaret.
  • Great Mosque of al-Nuri: Originally built by Nur al-Din Zengi circa 1172 AD.[102] Ibn Battuta found a marble fountain there and a mihrab (the niche that indicates the direction of Mecca) with a Kufic inscription.[citation needed] Its decorated brickwork minaret, called al-Hadba ("the hunchback") due to its lean, was destroyed along with much of the mosque in 2017.[103] The building has since been reconstructed and was reopened 2025.[104]
  • Mosul Grand Mosque is an unfinished mosque, which would become the largest mosque in Mosul.
  • Mujahidi Mosque: The mosque dates back to 12th century AD, and is distinguished for its shen[clarification needed] dome and elaborately wrought mihrab.
  • Prophet Younis Mosque and Shrine: Located east of the city, and included the tomb of Prophet Younis (Jonah), dating back to the 8th century BC, with a tooth of the whale that swallowed and later released him. It was completely demolished by IS in July 2014.[105]
  • Prophet Jirjis Mosque and Shrine: The late 14th century mosque and shrine honoring Prophet Jirjis (George) was built over the Quraysh cemetery. It was destroyed by IS in July 2014.[106]
  • Prophet Daniel Shrine: A Tomb attributed to Prophet Daniel was destroyed by IS in July 2014.[107][108]
  • Hamou Qado (Hema Kado) Mosque: An Ottoman-era mosque in the central Maydan area built in 1881, and officially named Mosque of Abdulla Ibn Chalabi Ibn Abdul-Qadi.[109] It was destroyed by IS in March 2015 because it contained a tomb that was revered and visited by local Muslims on Thursdays and Fridays.[110]

Churches and monasteries

[edit]
Mar Mattai Monastery of the Syriac Orthodox Church
Church of Saint Thomas, Mosul

Mosul had the highest proportion of Assyrian Christians of all the Iraqi cities outside of the Kurdish region, and contains several interesting old churches, some of which originally date back to the early centuries of Christianity. Its ancient Assyrian churches are often hidden and their entrances in thick walls are not easy to find. Some of them have suffered from excessive restoration.

  • Shamoun Al-Safa (St. Peter, Mar Petros): This church dates from the 13th century is and named after Shamoun Al-Safa or St. Peter (Mar Petros in Assyrian Aramaic). Earlier it had the name of the two Apostles, Peter and Paul, and was inhabited by the nuns of the Sacred Hearts.
  • Church of St. Thomas (Mar Touma in Assyrian Aramaic): One of the oldest historical churches, named after St. Thomas the Apostle who preached the Gospel in the East, including India. The exact time of its foundation is unknown, but it was before 770 AD, since Al-Mahdi, the Abbasid Caliph, is mentioned as listening to a grievance concerning this church on his trip to Mosul.
  • Mar Petion Church: Mar Petion, educated by his cousin in a monastery, was martyred in 446 AD. It is the first Chaldean Catholic church in Mosul, after the union of many Assyrians with Rome in the 17th century. It dates back to the 10th century, and lies 3 m below street level. This church suffered destruction, and it has been reconstructed many times. A hall was built on one of its three parts in 1942. As a result, most of its artistic features have been severely damaged.
  • Ancient Tahira Church (The Immaculate): Near Bash Tapia, considered one of the most ancient churches in Mosul. No evidence helps to determine its exact area. It could be either the remnants of the church of the Upper Monastery or the ruined Mar Zena Church. Al-Tahira Church dates back to the 7th century, and it lies 3 m below street level. Reconstructed last in 1743.
  • Al-Tahera Church: Syriac Catholic Church completed in 1862.
  • Mar Hudeni Church: It was named after Mar Ahudemmeh (Hudeni) Maphrian of Tikrit who was martyred in 575 AD. Mar Hudeni is an old church of the Tikritans in Mosul. It dates back to the 10th century, lies 7 m below street level and was first reconstructed in 1970. People can get mineral water from the well in its yard. The chain, fixed in the wall, is thought to cure epileptics.
  • St. George's Monastery (Mar Gurguis): One of the oldest churches in Mosul, named after St. George, located to the north of Mosul, was probably built late in the 17th century. Pilgrims from different parts of the North[clarification needed] visit it yearly in the spring, when many people also go out to its whereabouts on holiday.[clarification needed] It is about 6 m below street level. A modern church was built over the old one in 1931, abolishing much of its archeological significance. The only monuments left are a marble door-frame decorated with a carved Estrangelo (Syriac) inscription, and two niches, which date back to the 13th or 14th century.
  • Mar Matte: This monastery is situated about 20 km (12 mi) east of Mosul on the top of a high mountain (Mount Maqloub). It was built by Mar Matte, a monk who fled with several other monks in 362 AD from the Monastery of Zuknin near the City of Amid (Diyarbakir) in the southern part of Asia Minor (modern Turkey) and the north of Iraq during the reign of Emperor Julian the Apostate (361–363 AD). It has a precious library containing Syrianic scriptures.
  • Monastery of Mar Behnam: Also called Deir Al-Jubb (The Cistern Monastery) and built in the 12th or 13th century, it lies in the Nineveh Plain near Nimrud about 32 km (20 mi) southwest of Mosul. The monastery, a great fort-like building, rises next to the tomb of Mar Behnam, a prince who was killed by the Sassanians, perhaps during the 4th century AD. A legend made him a son of an Assyrian king.
  • St. Elijah's Monastery (Dair Mar Elia): Dating from the 6th century, it was the oldest Christian Monastery in Iraq, until its destruction by IS in January 2016.[111][112]

Other Christian historical buildings:

  • The Roman Catholic Church (built by the Dominican Fathers in Nineveh Street in 1893)
  • Mar Michael
  • Mar Elias
  • Mar Oraha
  • Rabban Hormizd Monastery, the monastery of Notre-Dame des Semences, near the Assyrian town of Alqosh

Other sites

[edit]
  • Bash Tapia Castle: A ruined castle rising high over the Tigris, which was one of the few remnants of Mosul's old walls until it was blown up by IS in 2015.
  • Qara Saray (The Black Palace): The remnants of the 13th-century palace of Sultan Badruddin Lu'lu'.
  • Ashur Mall is the largest mall of Mosul, based on Assyrian architecture

Painting

[edit]

The so-called Mosul School of Painting refers to a style of miniature painting that developed in northern Iraq in the late 12th to early 13th century under the patronage of the Zangid dynasty (1127–1222). In technique and style the Mosul school was similar to the painting of the Seljuq Turks, who controlled Iraq at that time, but the Mosul artists had a sharper sense of realism based on the subject matter and degree of detail in the painting rather than on representation in three dimensions, which did not occur. Most of the Mosul iconography was Seljuq—for example, the use of figures seated cross-legged in a frontal position. Certain symbolic elements, however, such as the crescent and serpents, were derived from the classical Mesopotamian repertory.

Most Mosul paintings were manuscript illustrations—mainly scientific works, animal books, and lyric poetry. A frontispiece painting, now held in the Bibliothèque nationale, Paris, dating from a late 12th century copy of Galen's medical treatise, the Kitab al-diriyak ("Book of Antidotes"), is a good example of the earlier work of the Mosul school. It depicts four figures surrounding a central, seated figure who holds a crescent-shaped halo. The painting is in a variety of whole hues; reds, blues, greens, and gold. The Küfic lettering is blue. The total effect is best described as majestic.

Another mid-13th century frontispiece held in the Nationalbibliothek, Vienna, to another copy of the same text suggests the quality of later Mosul painting. There is realism in its depiction of the preparation of a ruler's meal and of horsemen engaged in various activities, and the painting is as many hued as that of the early Mosul school, yet it is somehow less spirited. The composition is more elaborate but less successful. By this time the Baghdad school, which combined the styles of the Syrian and early Mosul schools, had begun to dominate. With the invasion of the Mongols in the mid-13th century the Mosul school came to an end, but its achievements were influential in both the Mamluk and the Mongol schools of miniature painting.

Education

[edit]
A mobile library in Mosul

The University of Mosul is the largest university in Mosul.[113] Other schools of higher education include Ninevah University, Al-Hadbaa University College, and the Northern Technical University.

Mosul also has multiple high schools some of which are coeducational while others are gender segregated. These include but are not limited to:

  • Al-Hafsah School[114]
  • Al-Haj Secondary School for Girls[115]
  • Kourtoba High School for Girls
  • Al-Mouhobeen Secondary School for Boys and Girls
  • Al-Mustaqbal High School for Boys
  • Al-Mutamaizat High School for Girls
  • Al-Mutamaizeen High School for Boys
  • Al-Resalah Al-Islamia (Al-Resalah) High School for Boys
  • Al-Sharqiya High School for Boys

Sport

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The city has one football team capable of competing in the top-flight of Iraqi football – Mosul FC.

Al Mosul University Stadium is the home stadium to Mosul FC and can hold up to 20,000 people.

Mosul university Stadium

The University of Mosul contains a College of Physical Education and Sports Science which teaches undergraduate and graduate students and performs research in three scientific departments.[116]

Media

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Mosul's OneFM Radio Cafe 05

Newspapers

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Notable people

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See also

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Notes

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References

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Sources

[edit]
  • Nasiri, Ali Naqi; Floor, Willem M. (2008). Titles and Emoluments in Safavid Iran: A Third Manual of Safavid Administration. Mage Publishers. p. 309. ISBN 978-1933823232.
  • Oberling, P. (1984). "AFŠĀR". Encyclopaedia Iranica, Vol. I, Fasc. 6. pp. 582–586. Archived from the original on 29 April 2011.
  • Rothman, E. Nathalie (2015). Brokering Empire: Trans-Imperial Subjects between Venice and Istanbul. Cornell University Press. ISBN 978-0801463129.
[edit]
Revisions and contributorsEdit on WikipediaRead on Wikipedia
from Grokipedia

Mosul is a major city in northern Iraq, serving as the capital of Nineveh Governorate and the second-largest urban center in the country after Baghdad. It is situated on the western bank of the Tigris River, about 400 kilometers northwest of Baghdad, directly across from the ruins of ancient Nineveh, the former Assyrian imperial capital. Historically, Mosul has functioned as a key commercial hub linking Mesopotamia with Anatolia and Persia, renowned for exports such as muslin fabric and as a center of trade, culture, and learning over millennia. Its population exceeded 2.5 million before the 2014 capture by the Islamic State, reflecting a diverse demographic including Sunni Arabs, Kurds, Turkmens, Assyrians, Shabaks, and other minorities. The city was seized by approximately 1,500 Islamic State fighters in June 2014, leading to three years of occupation marked by repression and cultural destruction, until its liberation in July 2017 by Iraqi security forces supported by a U.S.-led coalition, an operation that inflicted severe damage on infrastructure and heritage sites amid intense urban combat.

Etymology

Name origins and historical usages

The Arabic name of Mosul is al-Mawṣil (المَوْصِل), derived from the w-ṣ-l ("to connect" or "to join"), signifying a point of linkage or junction, which alludes to the city's strategic position at the confluence of River branches and major caravan routes linking southern , , and . This etymology is attested in early Islamic sources, reflecting the settlement's development as a garrison town (miṣr) following the Arab conquest of the region in 641 CE under Caliph , when it served as a vital crossing point via bridge and ford over the . Prior to the widespread use of al-Mawṣil, the site's western bank opposite ancient —known in Assyrian cuneiform texts and biblical accounts as the Assyrian capital founded around the 7th millennium BCE—lacked a distinct recorded name for the emerging urban center, with references instead emphasizing its proximity to Nineveh's ruins and the broader Mesopotamian trade nexus. Biblical allusions, such as in Genesis 10:11–12 and 1–3, describe Nineveh's expanse but do not specify a toponym for the opposing bank settlement that later became Mosul. In Ottoman Turkish administrative records from the 16th to 19th centuries, the city was rendered as Mûsûl, maintaining the Arabic core while adapting to Turkic , and it functioned as the seat of a encompassing northern . Modern usages retain al-Mawṣil in , with English "Mosul" stemming from European transliterations during 19th-century explorations. Historical nicknames include al-Ḥadbāʾ ("the Hunchback"), bestowed due to the pronounced tilt of the at the Great of al-Nuri, constructed in 1172 CE; al-Fayḥāʾ ("the Fragrant" or "Paradise"); and al-Khaḍrāʾ ("the Green"), evoking its fertile environs and climate.

Geography

Location and urban layout


Mosul is situated in northern , on the western bank of the River, at geographic coordinates 36°20′N 43°08′E. The city lies opposite the ruins of ancient on the eastern bank, with the serving as a central divide that shapes its topography and accessibility. The urban elevation averages around 282 meters above , encompassing flat floodplains along the river that have influenced settlement density and infrastructure placement.
The metropolitan area extends across both banks of the , traditionally divided into the right (western) bank, hosting the dense old city core with narrow streets and historic quarters, and the left (eastern) bank, featuring broader modern expansions and residential zones. This riverine bifurcation, reinforced by Street as a key east-west axis, organizes the city into four primary quarters, facilitating administrative and commercial functions while exposing western sectors to periodic flooding risks that have guided and embankment developments. Key districts include Al-Tahrir on the western bank, encompassing and central markets, alongside neighborhoods like those in the old city that reflect constrained by the river's meanders and elevated terrain to the west. Urban expansion has pushed outward from the core, with eastern suburbs accommodating industrial and housing growth on relatively stable alluvial plains, underscoring the 's role in dictating spatial organization and connectivity via bridges that serve as vital chokepoints. The layout's linear alignment along the river enhances its strategic positioning for controlling north-south trade corridors in the Tigris valley.

Climate and environmental factors

Mosul experiences a hot classified as BSh under the Köppen system, characterized by extreme summer heat and mild winters with limited . Average annual temperatures hover around 21°C, with highs reaching 42.9°C and occasional peaks exceeding 45°C during heatwaves, while lows average 6.4°C. totals approximately 400 mm annually, concentrated between and May, with negligible rainfall from to September, reflecting the influence of the nearby and regional aridity. Dust storms, or shamal winds, pose a recurrent , originating from desert sources and intensified by low vegetation cover and . Frequencies have risen since the , with Mosul recording 1-4 events per year on average, peaking in spring and driven by speeds over 20 m/s; these storms reduce to under 1 km, exacerbate respiratory issues, and deposit fine particulates that degrade air quality. Post-2017 liberation from control, environmental degradation has compounded climatic stresses, including rubble-induced pollution from over 100 million tons of debris containing , , and , leading to elevated particulate matter levels and . has intensified due to upstream damming, conflict-damaged infrastructure, and reduced River flows—down 30-50% since 2014—resulting in reliance on saline or polluted sources and heightened vulnerability to , with reservoir levels at historic lows of 10 billion cubic meters nationwide by 2025.

History

Ancient era (pre-Islamic)

The ancient settlement associated with modern Mosul emerged in the context of the , where the city of on the eastern bank of the River—directly opposite the core of present-day Mosul—functioned as the empire's political, administrative, and military hub from the late BCE. King (r. 705–681 BCE) transformed into the imperial capital, constructing extensive palaces, fortified walls enclosing approximately 7.5 square kilometers, and an advanced aqueduct system to support urbanization and agriculture, as evidenced by royal inscriptions and archaeological remains including monumental reliefs depicting military campaigns and engineering feats. tablets unearthed from 's palaces and temples, numbering in the tens of thousands, record detailed administrative records of tribute collection, troop deployments, and , underscoring the city's role in sustaining Assyrian hegemony over and beyond. The western bank counterpart to , identified in later Assyrian references as Mepsila or a related settlement, supported cross-river , facilitation, and defensive outposts, with early patterns traceable to the BCE through pottery and structural evidence indicating gradual expansion tied to Nineveh's growth. Pre-Christian religious infrastructure in the Nineveh-Mosul vicinity included temples dedicated to deities such as Ishtar and , where rituals and offerings were documented in texts, reflecting polytheistic practices integral to state legitimacy and social cohesion without evidence of centralized priesthoods dominating civic life. These sites, excavated since the , reveal no romanticized grandeur but pragmatic constructions aligned with imperial resource extraction and control. Following Nineveh's sack in 612 BCE by a Median-Babylonian coalition, which razed palaces and libraries—corroborated by stratigraphic layers of ash and destruction debris—the region's prominence waned under Achaemenid Persian administration from 539 BCE, when incorporated northern into satrapies focused on tribute and garrison maintenance rather than reconstruction. Hellenistic influence arrived with Alexander the Great's campaigns (331 BCE), introducing Greek administrative terms and coinage found in local hoards, though the area retained Semitic continuity in settlement patterns. Under Parthian rule from the BCE, the crossing at Mosul/Nineveh evolved into a nexus linking Persian heartlands to Mediterranean routes, evidenced by caravan station artifacts and cuneiform-Parthian bilingual inscriptions indicating commerce in textiles, metals, and spices, with urban layouts adapting to fortified emporia rather than expansive imperial centers.

Islamic conquests and medieval development

The Arab Muslim conquest of Mosul took place in 640–641 CE during the , when forces under Utba ibn Farqad al-Sulami, dispatched by Caliph , captured the Sasanian-held city after minimal resistance, marking its incorporation into the expanding Islamic polity. This event preserved Mosul's pre-existing role as a nexus bridging Mesopotamian plains and upper Jazira routes, with Arab settlers overlaying administrative structures on Sassanid foundations while allowing continuity in commerce and urban layout. Under Umayyad (661–750 CE) and subsequent Abbasid rule, Mosul functioned as the administrative center of Jazira province, evolving into a key hub for transregional exchange along paths linking to and , where caravans transported textiles, metals, and agricultural goods. The city's crafts, exemplified by intricate brass inlays, flourished amid this economic integration, supporting Abbasid networks that extended to [Central Asia](/page/Central Asia). Intellectual institutions emerged, such as the 10th-century House of Science established by poet-scholar Ibn Hamdan, which housed a encompassing diverse scientific disciplines and reflected scholarly patronage amid urban growth. The Mongol siege and sack of Mosul in 1261–1262 CE, conducted under Ilkhanid forces following the fall of , devastated fortifications and populations but did not erase the city's resilience, as reconstruction under oversight in the late 13th and 14th centuries restored trade functions and architectural embellishments. This era saw ethnic intermingling of , , and longstanding Nestorian and Jacobite Christian communities, whose coexistence in quarters and guilds laid early patterns of sectarian negotiation amid shared economic imperatives, though tensions arose from differential taxation and conversion pressures.

Ottoman rule and metalworking prominence

The incorporated Mosul following its conquest in 1534 by , establishing it as the capital of the of Mosul, an administrative governed by a appointed from . This structure facilitated oversight of key trade routes linking the Mediterranean to Persia and the , with Mosul serving as a vital node for caravans transporting goods southward through . The pashas enforced central authority, collecting taxes and maintaining order amid periodic challenges from Safavid Persia, including a brief occupation from 1623 to 1631, after which Ottoman forces under Mustafa recaptured the city, solidifying control. Under Ottoman administration, Mosul's economy thrived on its specialization in , particularly the inlaid and techniques originating from the medieval Mosul , which continued to produce luxury items like ewers and basins exported regionally. These crafts, featuring intricate silver and gold , drew on earlier traditions but persisted due to the stability of Ottoman rule, with artisans adapting designs to include Ottoman motifs for elite markets. Complementing metalwork, the city gained renown for production, including high-quality silks and muslins— the latter deriving its name from Mosul— which formed nearly 90 percent of local exports by the , routed via to European and Levantine ports. Economic output peaked in the amid expanded networks, though from European imports later strained guilds. Governance involved alliances with Sunni Arab tribes and Kurdish leaders to counter nomadic unrest, preserving Sunni dominance in the urban core while suppressing revolts, such as those tied to tribal autonomy demands in the 19th century. Pashas navigated these dynamics by integrating local notables into administration, ensuring loyalty through land grants and military levies, which maintained relative stability until the empire's decline. This tribal-pasha equilibrium supported Mosul's role as a Sunni stronghold, with minimal sectarian shifts under Ottoman millet system policies favoring Muslim governance.

20th century under British mandate and independent Iraq

British forces occupied Mosul on 10 November 1918, days after the , advancing beyond armistice terms to control the valley and secure potential oil resources amid Ottoman withdrawal. The occupation faced immediate resistance, including a 1920 rebellion in Mosul province against British administration, reflecting local opposition to colonial rule and demands for . Under the British Mandate for Mesopotamia (1920–1932), Mosul's status became contentious in the Mosul Dispute with , which claimed the based on ethnic and historical ties; the League of Nations Commission in 1925 recommended its inclusion in , formalized in a 1926 Anglo-Iraqi-Turkish granting Turkey 10% of oil revenues from the region for 25 years. Oil prospecting accelerated, with the Turkish Petroleum Company (later ) striking major reserves at near in October 1927, elevating Mosul's economic significance while fueling British strategic interests. Mandate-era emphasized minority protections for , Assyrians, and others in Mosul, yet declassified records reveal persistent unrest, including tribal skirmishes and administrative challenges, underscoring limited stability amid efforts. Iraq gained formal independence on 3 October 1932, with Mosul integrated into the Hashemite Kingdom under King Faisal I, who prioritized centralization and infrastructure like road and rail links to , though ethnic frictions in the north—such as Assyrian displacements and Kurdish autonomy aspirations—strained unity. The 1933 , targeting Assyrian communities in northern including refugees from Mosul areas, exemplified post-mandate minority vulnerabilities, with Iraqi forces killing thousands in response to perceived , eroding trust in Baghdad's rule. The 14 July 1958 military coup ended the monarchy, installing a republic under Prime Minister Abd al-Karim Qasim, whose policies favoring communist allies and Kurdish demands alienated Arab nationalists in Mosul. This sparked the March 1959 Mosul uprising, led by Colonel Abd al-Wahab al-Shawaf, who mobilized troops and civilians against Qasim's regime on grounds of anti-Arab bias; government airstrikes and counterattacks quelled the revolt within days, but ensuing chaos saw communal violence claim up to 2,500 lives, including executions and score-settling between nationalists, communists, and minorities. The events highlighted deepening divides in Mosul's diverse population—Arabs, Kurds, Turkmen, and Christians—foreshadowing chronic instability, as Qasim's suppression prioritized regime survival over reconciliation.

Ba'athist era and 2003 invasion aftermath

During the Ba'athist era following the 1968 coup, Mosul emerged as a stronghold for the party, serving as a primary recruitment ground for the 's officer corps and hosting significant installations. The regime under prioritized northern Iraq's strategic development, including tied to oil extraction and , though international sanctions after the 1991 constrained broader industrial expansion. As a predominantly Sunni Arab city, Mosul experienced relative favoritism compared to Shia or Kurdish regions, yet remained under tight central control with suppression of dissent. Coalition forces, led by the U.S. , captured Mosul on April 11, 2003, facing negligible resistance as Iraqi military units dissolved or fled, creating an immediate power vacuum. In the ensuing weeks, widespread looting targeted government buildings, banks, and infrastructure, exacerbating disorder amid the absence of effective local governance. This chaos was compounded by the Coalition Provisional Authority's (CPA) policies under L. Paul Bremer, including Order No. 1 on May 16, 2003, which mandated by purging senior members—estimated at 30,000 individuals—from public sector roles, and Order No. 2 in June, which disbanded the Iraqi army. These measures, intended to dismantle Saddam's repressive apparatus, instead generated mass among former soldiers and officials, particularly in Sunni-dominated areas like Mosul, fostering resentment and economic desperation. The disenfranchisement of Sunnis through and army dissolution provided fertile ground for , as ex-regime elements and unemployed youth turned to militancy against the occupation and emerging Shia-led institutions. Mosul rapidly became a focal point for this unrest, with attacks escalating by mid-2003 and (AQI), founded by and formalized in October 2004, exploiting local grievances to establish operational bases. The November 2004 Battle of Mosul exemplified this surge, as insurgents overran police stations and seized swaths of the city after abandoned posts, resulting in approximately 18 U.S. deaths, over 170 wounded, and an estimated 600 insurgent casualties. From 2003 to 2006, the city witnessed recurrent violence, including suicide bombings and ambushes, contributing to broader Iraqi insurgency tolls that saw thousands of civilian and combatant deaths amid the power vacuum's causal chain to .

ISIS occupation (2014-2017)

The captured Mosul on June 10, 2014, following a rapid offensive that began around June 4-5, during which largely collapsed and abandoned their positions, enabling ISIS fighters to seize government buildings, airports, and military bases with minimal resistance. subsequently incorporated the city into its self-declared , establishing Wilayat Ninawa (Province of ) as an administrative unit centered on Mosul to govern the surrounding Sunni-majority areas. This control persisted until mid-2017, during which ISIS exploited local grievances against the Shia-dominated Iraqi government under Prime Minister , including perceived sectarian discrimination, arbitrary arrests, and exclusion from power, to recruit and gain tacit support from segments of the Sunni Arab population, though such acquiescence stemmed from survival incentives rather than endorsement of ISIS's subsequent atrocities. Economically, ISIS sustained its occupation through extortion, taxation, and smuggling of oil extracted from fields near Mosul, such as those in the Qayyarah area south of the city, generating an estimated $1-3 million daily at peak, with crude sold at discounted rates to local traders and smuggled across borders via tanker trucks. Internally, the group imposed a governance structure mimicking state functions, including a hisba (morality police) force that patrolled streets to enforce strict interpretations of Sharia law, punishing violations like smoking, Western clothing, or music with flogging, amputation, or execution, while collecting zakat (religious tax) at rates up to 10% on assets and income from residents and businesses to fund operations. Ideologically, ISIS pursued a policy of cultural erasure targeting non-Sunni Islamic and pre-Islamic heritage sites in Mosul, demolishing the Tomb of Prophet Jonah (Nabi Yunus) in July 2014 and Assyrian artifacts in the Mosul Museum in February 2015, actions justified doctrinally as combating shirk (polytheism) and idolatry to purify the caliphate, though also serving to assert dominance and eliminate symbols of rival identities. This extended to minorities, with ISIS issuing ultimatums in July 2014 demanding Christians convert to Islam, pay jizya (protection tax), leave, or face death, resulting in the near-total exodus of Mosul's ancient Assyrian Christian community—estimated at 30,000-50,000 people—along with displacements of Shabak and other non-Sunni groups through forced conversions, enslavement, or killings.

Liberation battle and immediate postwar period

The offensive to liberate Mosul commenced on October 16, 2016, involving approximately 94,000 (ISF), Kurdish fighters, and (PMF), supported by U.S.-led coalition airstrikes, artillery, and special operations advisors. Initial advances encircled ISIS positions outside the city, with Phase I focusing on eastern outskirts by early November 2016, clearing villages and supply routes amid ISIS counterattacks using vehicle-borne improvised explosive devices (VBIEDs) and suicide tactics. Phase II, starting December 29, 2016, pushed into eastern Mosul districts from multiple axes, securing the area by January 24, 2017, after house-to-house fighting against entrenched ISIS defenders employing snipers, booby-trapped buildings, and underground tunnels for ambushes and resupply. The campaign shifted to western Mosul in February 2017, where denser urban terrain, including the Old City, intensified close-quarters combat; ISIS fighters, numbering 3,000–12,000 at the start, used civilian human shields, rigged explosives in infrastructure, and tunnel networks to prolong resistance, detonating the al-Nuri Mosque on June 21, 2017, to deny its symbolic value. Coalition precision-guided munitions and Iraqi ground maneuvers cleared these tunnels through systematic breaching and explosive ordnance disposal, though ISIS VBIED swarms and inflicted heavy attrition on advancing forces. Iraqi Prime Minister declared Mosul liberated on July 9, 2017, with full control of the Old City achieved by July 20, following the deaths of an estimated 4,000–10,000 ISIS combatants. Casualties were staggering, with ISF and allied forces suffering around 10,000 killed or wounded due to ISIS's attritional defenses in confined spaces. Civilian deaths, exacerbated by ISIS's deliberate endangerment of noncombatants and the challenges of distinguishing targets in populated areas, reached 9,000–11,000 according to investigations cross-referencing graves, hospitals, and witness accounts, with roughly one-third attributed to coalition or Iraqi fire—a figure disputed by official U.S. estimates of under 1,000 coalition-caused incidents but corroborated by independent surveys showing higher tolls from airstrikes on trapped groups. The battle displaced nearly 920,000 residents, overwhelming camps and host communities in province with acute humanitarian needs. In the immediate postwar period through late 2017, Iraqi forces conducted clearing operations to neutralize remaining sleeper cells and over 2 million tons of scattered across the city, while coalition advisors assisted in stabilizing secured districts amid widespread destruction that rendered 40,000 buildings uninhabitable. Initial returns of displaced persons began tentatively, but security sweeps revealed executed civilians and mass graves, underscoring 's wartime atrocities, as documented by forensic teams. Joint patrols by and coalition troops focused on preventing resurgence in peripheral areas, though sporadic attacks persisted. ![Iraqi police, U.S. Soldiers patrol neighborhood in Mosul DVIDS40282][float-right]

Reconstruction era (2018-2025)

Following the liberation of Mosul from control in July 2017, reconstruction efforts commenced in 2018, focusing on clearing rubble, restoring heritage sites, and rehabilitating amid extensive urban damage. initiated the "Revive the Spirit of Mosul" campaign in 2018, which by 2025 had restored 124 heritage houses and key religious landmarks, emphasizing community involvement and traditional building techniques to preserve cultural identity. The campaign, funded by contributions including $50.4 million from the and support from the , raised a total of $115 million, demonstrating effective international coordination with local Iraqi authorities. A centerpiece of these efforts was the reconstruction of the Al-Nouri Mosque complex, including its iconic Al-Hadba minaret, which had demolished in 2017. The project involved demining 115 explosive devices and stabilizing the site before full rebuilding, culminating in its inauguration on September 1, 2025, by Iraq's Prime Minister . The Old City, where the mosque is located, suffered severe destruction, with approximately 40% of Mosul's overall urban fabric affected, particularly in western sectors, necessitating ongoing rubble clearance and phased urban recovery. Despite progress, challenges persisted, including uneven infrastructure rehabilitation and substandard living conditions for some residents, highlighting limitations in aid distribution efficacy. Infrastructure advancements included the reopening of on July 16, 2025, after over a decade of closure due to occupation and subsequent conflict damage. Rebuilt with Iraqi funding and international , the airport features a new main terminal and VIP lounge, with commercial flights anticipated by mid-September 2025. German development bank contributed to broader urban reconstruction, including housing and utilities, underscoring the role of bilateral aid in complementing local initiatives. By 2025, Mosul's population had returned to an estimated 1.9 million, reflecting significant from displacement but with persistent gaps in service provision and stability. Returnees benefited from UNESCO's heritage-focused projects, which integrated local labor and expertise, yet broader recovery remained hampered by incomplete demining and economic strains, as evidenced by continued international monitoring of returnee conditions. These efforts marked tangible progress in restoring Mosul's physical and , though full urban revitalization required sustained local and foreign partnerships beyond 2025.

Demographics

Prior to the ISIS occupation in June 2014, Mosul's population was estimated at approximately 1.8 million, making it Iraq's second-largest city after . The rapid seizure of the city prompted an initial mass exodus, reducing the resident population to roughly 600,000 by late 2014 as residents fled to safer areas within or abroad. During the subsequent three-year occupation, strict controls, economic hardship, and targeted violence further suppressed growth and encouraged limited , though precise figures remain elusive due to the lack of formal censuses under ISIS rule. The 2016–2017 battle to liberate Mosul intensified displacement, with over 1.08 million individuals (about 180,000 families) recorded as having fled the city by August 2017 amid widespread destruction of infrastructure and housing. At the conflict's peak, the urban population reportedly fell to around 500,000, concentrated in less-affected eastern districts initially, with many evacuees shifting to rural peripheries in or temporary camps. Post-liberation returns began immediately but were uneven; by July 2018, nearly 870,000 people had returned, driven by improved security and family ties, though damaged dwellings limited full repopulation. Recovery has been gradual, with natural growth and inbound migration partially offsetting losses, but persistent challenges like and have sustained outflows to rural areas and other Iraqi cities. As of 2024, estimates place Mosul's at about 1.85 million, projected to reach 1.90 million in 2025, still below pre-2014 levels due to net emigration and slower urban rebound compared to national trends. These figures derive from projections incorporating displacement data and demographic modeling, as Iraq's last comprehensive predates the conflict and official updates remain infrequent.

Ethnic composition

Mosul's urban population is predominantly composed of , who constitute the majority, with estimates from pre-2014 data indicating they form around 60-70% of the city's residents, primarily concentrated in the along the River. represent a notable minority, estimated at 10-20% in the broader area, often residing in peripheral neighborhoods or exerting influence through territorial claims on disputed outskirts. Turkmen follow as the third-largest group, comprising roughly 5-10%, with historical settlements in areas like Tel Afar adjacent to Mosul, though their urban presence within the is smaller. Assyrians and Shabaks form smaller minorities, each estimated at under 5% of Mosul's pre-war population, with Assyrians historically clustered in eastern suburbs and Shabaks more prevalent in rural pockets of the Nineveh Plains to the east. These groups maintain enclaves outside the densely Arab urban center, where Arabs dominate commercial and residential hubs. The city's ethnic landscape reflects a historical pattern of Arab centrality in the metropolis contrasted with minority strongholds in surrounding villages and plains. The ISIS occupation from 2014 to 2017 drastically altered this composition through systematic expulsions, executions, and forced conversions targeting non-Arab minorities, resulting in the near-elimination of Assyrian and Shabak communities from Mosul proper and a sharp decline in overall diversity. Post-liberation assessments show that while over 1 million internally displaced persons returned by 2018, minority returns lagged significantly—Assyrians at less than 50% of pre-war levels and Shabaks facing ongoing displacement—intensifying Arab demographic dominance in the city amid slow reconstruction and security vacuums. No comprehensive post-war census exists, but surveys highlight persistent barriers like property disputes and militia influences hindering minority reintegration, preserving rural enclaves while urban areas remain Arab-majority.

Religious demographics and sectarian dynamics

Mosul's religious landscape is dominated by , with adherents forming over 90% of the city's estimated 1.5 million residents as of 2023, reflecting its historical role as a center of Sunni scholarship and resistance to Shia-dominated central governance. A small Shia Muslim minority, primarily and , persists in eastern districts but constitutes less than 5% of the population, often facing and targeted violence due to doctrinal schisms dating to the 7th-century succession disputes that define Sunni-Shia enmity. , while prominent in surrounding areas like , maintain negligible presence within Mosul proper, limited to scattered families prior to mass displacements. The Christian community, mainly Assyrian, Chaldean, and Syriac Orthodox, has undergone catastrophic decline, from approximately 50,000 adherents in the early 2000s to fewer than 70 families (around 300-500 individuals) by October 2025, driven by systematic rather than voluntary migration alone. Post-2003 violence, including kidnappings and church bombings by Sunni extremists alienated by Shia-favoring policies like de-Baathification, halved the population by 2014; ISIS's 2014 ultimatum—convert, pay , or face death—prompted near-total exodus, with return rates below 1% due to destroyed properties and ongoing insecurity. This exemplifies causal chains of doctrinal intolerance: ISIS enforced Wahhabi-Salafi purism against perceived polytheists and apostates, rooted in irreconcilable theological views on Christ's divinity and Trinitarianism. Sectarian dynamics in Mosul hinge on Sunni grievances against Baghdad's Shia-centric power consolidation after , which marginalized local Sunnis through exclusionary quotas and militia empowerment, fostering radical recruitment as a retaliatory mechanism. , integrated into state structures post-2017, now patrol disputed areas, exacerbating Sunni distrust via arbitrary arrests and land seizures, while and navigate dual threats from Sunni jihadist remnants and Iran-backed Shia enforcers enforcing subordination. Empirical data from displacement tracking shows over 120,000 and fled during ISIS rule, with minimal repatriation amid unresolved doctrinal hostilities that prioritize loyalty over civic pluralism. These tensions, unmitigated by federal interventions, perpetuate cycles of vengeance, as evidenced by persistent low-level clashes between Sunni tribes and Shia militias over resource control.

Governance and politics

Administrative structure

Mosul serves as the capital of , which is administratively divided into nine districts tasked with coordinating essential services such as , , and maintenance across the province. The governorate operates under a , selected by the provincial council, who acts as the chief executive linking local directorates to federal ministries in for policy alignment and . The city of Mosul is managed by a and council responsible for day-to-day operations, including , , and , with the segmented into eight administrative sectors since 2013 to streamline service provision amid . Mosul , the governorate's core administrative unit, further subdivides into six sub-districts—Bashiqa, Hammam Al-Alil, Mahalabiya, , Qayyarah, and Shoura—each equipped with directorates for localized tasks like registration, licensing, and basic utilities distribution. Post-2003 reforms, particularly Iraq's Law No. 21 of 2008, devolved certain executive powers to provincial councils for budgeting and service execution, yet persistent central control via Baghdad's line ministries has limited , requiring federal or funding approvals for significant initiatives in . Amendments to the law in 2018 reinforced ministerial oversight, resulting in uneven bureaucratic efficiency at the district level despite elected councils numbering 29 seats following the 2023 provincial elections.

Sectarian influences and power struggles

Following the 2003 U.S.-led invasion and subsequent policies, which purged an estimated 400,000 Sunni Arabs from positions and military roles, Sunni communities in Mosul experienced systemic exclusion from political and economic power, fostering resentment toward the Shia-dominated central in . This marginalization created a vacuum in Sunni-majority areas like Nineveh Province, where corruption and arbitrary arrests alienated tribal leaders, enabling groups like to exploit grievances by portraying themselves as defenders against Shia overreach during their 2014 seizure of Mosul. Empirical data from conflict trackers indicate that pre-2014 protest movements in Mosul, such as the 2012-2013 Hawija and demonstrations against perceived Shia favoritism, devolved into violence, with over 50 civilian deaths reported in crackdowns, directly correlating with ISIS's surge among disenfranchised Sunnis. Post-2017 liberation, the (PMF), predominantly Shia militias formalized under federal authority in 2016, asserted control over key Mosul districts and rural areas, often through land seizures and checkpoints that displaced Sunni families, exacerbating perceptions of revenge-driven sectarianism. Sunni tribal alliances, such as those led by the Nineveh Tribes Council, mounted pushback via protests and legal challenges, citing over 1,200 documented cases of arbitrary detentions and property confiscations by PMF units like between 2018 and 2020, which fueled low-level insurgencies and ISIS resurgence in peripheral villages. Governance failures here stem from Baghdad's reluctance to integrate Sunni local police—reducing their numbers from 28,000 pre-ISIS to under 10,000 by 2019—allowing PMF veto power over appointments, which tribal sources attribute to Iranian-backed consolidation rather than needs. Parallel tensions arose from federal-Kurdish rivalries over disputed territories, including Mosul's eastern plains, where forces expanded control during the 2014-2017 anti-ISIS campaign, only to face Iraqi army incursions in October 2017 that reclaimed 40% of previously Kurdish-held areas amid clashes killing dozens. This power struggle, rooted in Article 140 of Iraq's 2005 constitution mandating referendums on disputed lands but unimplemented due to mutual distrust, has stalled joint patrols and resource sharing, with incidents like the 2021 Agreement disputes highlighting how Kurdish demands for administrative autonomy provoke federal assertions of sovereignty, perpetuating fragmented security and Sunni-Kurdish frictions over minority protections. reveals these dynamics undermine inclusive governance, as zero-sum territorial claims prioritize ethnic control over stabilizing institutions, evidenced by persistent IED attacks—averaging 15 monthly in from 2018-2022—tied to unresolved sectarian grievances rather than external threats alone.

Post-ISIS local governance challenges

Following the liberation of Mosul from control in July 2017, local governance in Province, including the city, has been hampered by entrenched , institutional capacity deficits, and fragmented authority structures that prioritize patronage over merit-based administration. High-level of reconstruction funds, such as the over $64 million diverted by former Governor Nawaf al-Agoub, exemplifies how corrupt practices undermine public trust and divert resources from essential services. These issues persist due to weak oversight mechanisms and a lack of skilled personnel in local councils, resulting from the administrative vacuum left by 's destruction of bureaucratic records and displacement of experienced officials. Patronage networks, often mediated by Iran-backed Popular Mobilization Forces (PMF) brigades such as the 30th and 50th, further distort equitable service delivery by tying access to electricity, water, and housing allocations to political loyalty rather than need. PMF units maintain checkpoints and control trade routes in and around Mosul, extracting unofficial fees and favoring affiliated communities, which exacerbates sectarian divides and deters the return of displaced minorities like Assyrians and who perceive biased administration. This militia interference challenges authority, as Baghdad's directives are inconsistently enforced amid competing claims from the Regional Government and local Sunni factions. Local governance remains heavily dependent on donor funding and Baghdad's budgetary transfers for salaries and infrastructure, with international aid often siphoned through corrupt channels, limiting sustainable local initiatives. Efforts to foster autonomous local projects, such as community-led service committees, are undermined by this external reliance and capacity shortfalls, where citizens must navigate multiple overlapping networks—PMF, provincial councils, and federal agencies—for basic needs. By 2025, incremental stability gains have emerged, including extended electricity supply to 18-20 hours daily in central Mosul and improved urban amenities like new roads and parks, facilitating some resident returns driven by job opportunities. However, persistent PMF-linked and intra-Sunni power contests, evident in pre-election rivalries between alliances like Hasm and Taqaddum, continue to erode administrative efficacy and public confidence in impartial governance.

Economy

Traditional sectors and pre-2003 base

Prior to , Mosul's economy rested on in the surrounding , a fertile region supporting cultivation of , , and as primary crops, with profits derived mainly from their sale. These activities provided food and raw materials for local use, with surpluses exported to regional centers like . Cotton farming, in particular, supplied to urban weavers, with village spinners around Mosul producing over 1.5 million pounds annually by the late , a that persisted into the 20th. Traditional industries complemented agriculture through crafts such as textile weaving from local and , which had Ottoman-era roots and served both domestic and markets. Mosul functioned as a commercial hub, exporting agricultural products, , industrial goods, and minerals via established trade networks. The city's strategic position on routes linking southward, westward, and northward facilitated market exchanges of pastoral products, grains, and crafts, extending trade to and beyond. Proximity to Kirkuk's fields, connected via pipelines originating in the former , bolstered and ancillary services like and refining support.

War impacts on economic activity

The conflicts from the 2003 U.S.-led invasion through the occupation (2014–2017) devastated Mosul's economic activity, primarily through targeted destruction, , and severance of trade networks. The takeover in June 2014 isolated the city by capturing surrounding areas, cutting domestic and routes essential for commerce in this industrial hub, which led to immediate contractions in local markets and output. During the occupation, imposed heavy and taxation on businesses and households, extracting up to $8 million monthly from Mosul's alone through zakat-like levies and seizures, which distorted incentives for productive and shifted resources toward survival rather than growth. ISIS's control of nearby oil fields, such as those south of Mosul in the Qayyara , enabled smuggling operations that generated an estimated $1–2 million daily for the group through black-market sales, but this illicit trade flooded local and regional markets with discounted fuel, undercutting legitimate suppliers and collapsing formal petroleum-related economic chains. Industrial compounded these effects, with ISIS deliberately igniting oil wells and sulphur stockpiles near Mosul, contaminating and sources critical for and , rendering thousands of hectares unproductive and halting operations in affected factories. The 2016–2017 liberation battles further ravaged infrastructure, destroying all five River bridges, , and extensive rail networks, which severed supply lines and amplified unemployment through the shutdown of transport-dependent industries. In Nineveh Governorate, encompassing Mosul, direct damages from the ISIS era reached billions of dollars across key sectors, as detailed below:
SectorDamage (US$ Billion)Key Impacts
Industry and Commerce1.1Looting and destruction of factories, loss of productive capacity
Power0.81533% of assets fully destroyed, halting manufacturing and services
Transport1.04Bridges, airport, and rail obliterated, isolating markets
Agriculture1.18Contamination and sabotage reducing output by over 50% in affected areas
Housing (Mosul-specific)5.1–6.969,000–92,000 units impacted, displacing workforce
These losses, part of a national total exceeding $45.7 billion in , translated to profound disruptions in non-oil GDP, with cumulative national non-oil losses hitting $107 billion by —a figure disproportionately borne by due to Mosul's pre-war role in industry and . The combined , extortion-driven distortions, and physical destruction eroded capital stock, spiked joblessness via factory closures and breaks, and entrenched cycles by eliminating livelihoods in a once contributing significantly to Iraq's northern .

Reconstruction efforts, investments, and persistent barriers

Following the 2017 liberation of Mosul from ISIS control, international organizations have channeled funds into targeted reconstruction, notably through UNESCO's "Revive the Spirit of Mosul" program, which supported the rebuilding of the Al-Nuri Mosque complex, including its iconic minaret, with completion and reopening in February 2025. In September 2025, local authorities launched a church reconstruction initiative aimed at restoring Christian heritage sites like Mar Gorgis Monastery to encourage minority returns and bolster community stability. Nineveh provincial officials have advanced dozens of projects in 2025, focusing on essential services restoration and survivor support, including utilities and public infrastructure rehabilitation. Nationally, Iraq's post-ISIS reconstruction needs were estimated at $88.2 billion, with $23 billion required for short-term priorities like Mosul's urban recovery, though a 2018 donor conference yielded only $30 billion in pledges, including grants, loans, and investments—less than half the requested amount. The World Bank contributed $400 million specifically for Mosul and liberated areas in 2017, funding emergency recovery in housing and services. Private sector engagement has driven some trade revival, with Iraqi authorities emphasizing business-led stabilization to rebuild commercial hubs, yet inefficiencies have left many initiatives incomplete; for example, as of 2022, corruption and planning shortfalls stalled progress five years post-liberation, a pattern persisting into recent assessments. Corruption has systematically undermined fund utilization, with Nineveh officials embezzling $64 million from an $800 million provincial reconstruction budget in the immediate post-liberation period, as reported by Iraq's Integrity Commission. Whistleblower accounts in 2024 alleged UN Development Programme staff solicited bribes on a $1.5 billion project, diverting resources from postwar efforts amid weak donor oversight. Such graft, compounded by poor coordination between federal, provincial, and international actors, has resulted in uncompleted s, including delayed utilities and markets, despite allocated budgets. Persistent barriers include security threats from Iran-backed militias targeting , which escalated risks ahead of 2025 elections and deterred . A skilled labor exodus during the ISIS era and ongoing conflict has created shortages, with internally displaced persons facing administrative obstacles like missing documentation that block formal employment. in , while declining from over 50% pre-2023 to approximately 15% by 2025, underscores incomplete recovery, with residents citing inadequate utilities (75% reporting deficiencies) and waste management (60% demanding improvements) in old city surveys. These factors have slowed private sector momentum in trade, leaving economic revitalization uneven.

Infrastructure

Transportation networks

Mosul's primary road connections include Highway 1 linking the city southward to , spanning approximately 400 kilometers, and Highway 2 extending northward to , about 85 kilometers away, before continuing to Dohuk and the Turkish border. These highways form critical arteries for passenger and freight movement, supporting post-conflict economic recovery by enabling the transport of goods and people amid ongoing national infrastructure upgrades, including the ambitious Development Road project that routes through Mosul's vicinity to enhance trade links with and . The River bisects Mosul into eastern and western districts, historically connected by five major bridges that were largely destroyed during the 2016-2017 battle against ISIS to isolate militants. By September 2024, province authorities had fully restored all ISIS-damaged bridges, reinstating vital intra-city traffic flow and alleviating bottlenecks that had hindered daily commutes and commerce since liberation. This reconstruction has played a key role in urban revival, allowing seamless east-west movement essential for local services and reconstruction logistics. Mosul International Airport, rendered inoperable since ISIS's 2014 capture of the city, was reinaugurated on July 16, 2025, by Prime Minister , featuring a modernized main terminal and VIP lounge capable of handling domestic and international flights. Commercial operations were anticipated to commence by mid-September 2025, marking a significant boost to aerial connectivity and facilitating passenger travel that aids tourism, business, and humanitarian efforts in the region's recovery. Railway infrastructure serving Mosul remains largely disrupted from decades of conflict and neglect, with the historic north-south line through the city non-operational since around 2010 due to sabotage and damage. However, national initiatives, including a $930 million World Bank-funded project approved in June 2025, target rehabilitation of the 1,047-kilometer corridor from via to Mosul, aiming to modernize tracks for freight capacity projected at 6.3 million tons domestically by 2037. Efforts also include upgrading the Baghdad-Baiji-Mosul segment and exploring extensions to , positioning rail revival as a potential driver for industrial reconnection and reduced road dependency in Mosul's economic stabilization.

Utilities, housing, and urban services

Following the 2017 liberation of Mosul from control, the city's supply has remained inconsistent, with residents often experiencing outages exceeding 6-12 hours daily due to damaged and national grid limitations, exacerbating summer heat and economic activity disruptions. Reconstruction efforts have partially restored grid connections, but reliance on private generators persists amid broader Iraqi shortages, where average supply hovers around 12-18 hours per day in urban areas like Ninewa province. Water provisioning faces ongoing contamination risks from war-damaged pipes and River pollution, with post-conflict assessments revealing elevated and in urban sources, leading to issues like gastrointestinal illnesses. Restoration of the municipal network has been gradual, impeded by explosive remnants and funding shortfalls, forcing many households to use untreated wells or bottled alternatives despite UNICEF-led chlorination initiatives since 2017. Housing reconstruction lags significantly, with over 130,000 residential units destroyed or severely damaged during the occupation and subsequent battles, contributing to Ninewa governorate's share of Iraq's estimated 3 million unit deficit. Iraqi government and NGO programs, including KfW-supported renovations of more than 7,700 homes, have focused on basic repairs like and wiring, yet only select projects—such as the 2025 rebuilding of 546 units in historic districts—have advanced, leaving tens of thousands displaced or in substandard shelters. Urban services, particularly , are hampered by approximately 7 million tons of contaminated in western Mosul alone, mixing with hazardous materials and obstructing efforts. The absence of integrated clearance plans has led to pilots by UNEP, but 60% of residents in a 2025 survey reported inadequate services, heightening risks and delaying full . Limited compounds these issues, with informal dumping prevalent in unreconstructed areas.

Cultural and religious heritage

Mosques, shrines, and Islamic sites

Mosul's Islamic sites primarily reflect its longstanding role as a Sunni center, with mosques and shrines dating from the early Islamic period onward, embodying architectural influences from Abbasid, Seljuk, and Ottoman eras that incorporated Mesopotamian structural techniques with Persian decorative elements and Anatolian proportions. The Al-Masfi Mosque, also known as the Umayyad or Ancient Mosque, represents the city's earliest Islamic structure, established shortly after the Muslim conquest of Mosul in 637 CE on the site of what is considered the first mosque in the region. Prior to 2014, it functioned as a modest congregational space in the Old City's heart, underscoring continuity from Umayyad times through subsequent rebuilds under later dynasties. The Great Mosque of al-Nuri, completed in 1172 CE by the Seljuk ruler Nur ad-Din Mahmud Zangi, stands as Mosul's most emblematic , featuring a distinctive leaning called al-Hadba that symbolized the city's and earned it the moniker "the Hunchback." Constructed with a square base tapering to octagonal and circular forms, the exemplified Seljuk , while the complex included iwans and courtyards renovated over centuries, serving as a hub for and communal prayer in the Sunni-majority population. Its pre-2014 prominence extended to hosting major Friday sermons and reflecting Mosul's medieval prosperity under Zangid patronage. Among local shrines, the of Nabi Shiath honors the biblical prophet (Shiath in tradition), featuring a tomb venerated by Sunni Muslims as a site for supplication and drawing pilgrims for its association with early Islamic prophetic narratives. Similarly, the Tomb of al-Imam Muhsin, established in the 13th century by Badr al-Din Lu'lu', combined functions with shrine elements, highlighting Mosul's of integrating education and saint veneration in Sunni Sufi contexts. These structures, though fewer in Shia representation due to the region's demographic, emphasized esoteric and orthodox Sunni practices, with architectural motifs like vaults blending local and regional Islamic aesthetics.

Churches, monasteries, and Christian heritage

Mosul's Christian heritage originates from the early spread of Christianity among the indigenous , with evidence of communities dating to the second century CE. The city served as a center for , preserving ancient liturgical traditions and manuscripts over centuries. The Church of Saint Thomas, a Syriac Orthodox site, exemplifies this continuity, with historians tracing its foundations to approximately 1,700 years ago and traditions linking it to the hospitality offered to the Apostle Thomas during his missionary journeys. Archaeological findings, including relics thought to date to the seventh century CE, were uncovered at the site, underscoring its role as a focal point for Assyrian . Nearby monasteries reinforced Mosul's position within a network of early . The Monastery of Mar Mattai, located 20 kilometers northeast of the city on Mount Alfaf, was established in 363 CE by the ascetic Mar Mattai, who fled persecution, and became a key Syriac Orthodox center housing valuable manuscripts. Further north, the near , founded around 640 CE and carved into the mountainside, functioned as a hermitage and patriarchal residence for the until the eighteenth century. Prior to the mass exodus beginning around 2003, Mosul's Christian population, numbering approximately 25,000, maintained these sites as hubs for religious observance, cultural preservation, and community leadership within the city's diverse fabric. Assyrians and Chaldeans, adhering to ancient rites, contributed to the continuity of Aramaic-language worship and historical scholarship in the region.

Archaeological and other historical sites

The ruins of ancient Nineveh, the last capital of the Neo-Assyrian Empire, lie on the eastern bank of the Tigris River opposite modern Mosul, encompassing the principal mounds of Kuyunjik and Nebi Yunus within a vast fortified enclosure. Founded around 6000 BCE and expanded significantly under kings such as Sennacherib (r. 705–681 BCE), Nineveh served as a major administrative and military center, with its palaces yielding extensive bas-reliefs depicting Assyrian conquests, including the siege of Lachish in 701 BCE. These sculpted wall panels, lining rooms and courtyards in structures like Sennacherib's Southwest Palace—the largest of its era—provide empirical evidence of Assyrian engineering and imperial propaganda, with motifs of sieges, deportations, and tribute-bearing subjects carved in gypsum and limestone. Excavations beginning in the mid-19th century by British archaeologists uncovered thousands of such reliefs, alongside cuneiform tablets from 's (r. 669–631 BCE) North , illuminating Assyrian administrative practices and literary traditions. The city's defensive walls, constructed by around 700 BCE, formed a perimeter exceeding 12 kilometers, incorporating 15 gates, moats, and earthen ramparts up to 25 meters high, demonstrating advanced fortification techniques that protected an urban area of approximately 750 hectares. Recent discoveries, such as a 2025 excavation revealing a 5.5-meter-long bas-relief of flanked by deities, weighing 12 tons and originally painted, underscore ongoing revelations about palace iconography and royal ideology from stratified contexts. Artifacts from , including imported ivories and metalwork, attest to its position as a trade hub at the Tigris-Khosr Rivers confluence, facilitating exchanges along caravan routes linking to and the . These finds, recovered from storerooms, reflect economic interdependence rather than isolated , with stylistic influences from regions like the evident in decorative techniques. Beyond , lesser mounds in the Mosul vicinity, such as those yielding pre-Assyrian pottery, indicate continuous occupation from the period, though systematic surveys remain limited.

ISIS destruction and international restoration projects

During its control of Mosul from 2014 to July 2017, the systematically demolished sites through explosives, bulldozers, and sledgehammers, targeting over 40 locations including , churches, tombs, and museums. This included the February 2015 smashing of thousands of artifacts in the Mosul Cultural Museum, such as Assyrian statues, and the June 21, 2017, detonation of the 12th-century Great of al-Nuri and its iconic leaning to hinder advancing Iraqi forces. The group's actions were driven by a Salafi-jihadist that condemned pre- antiquities and even certain structures as idolatrous manifestations of shirk (), aiming to erase historical narratives conflicting with their puritanical vision while generating videos for and through selective . Post-liberation, international efforts centered on UNESCO's "Revive the Spirit of Mosul" initiative, launched in 2018 with a $115 million budget from donors including the UAE, , and others, focusing on reconstructing five key religious sites and 124 heritage houses in the Old City. The project emphasized community involvement, training local experts in and , and completed restorations of the complex, , and Al-Tahera Church by early 2025. The and its minaret were inaugurated on September 1, 2025, by Iraq's , marking a symbolic milestone after eight years of work funded primarily by a $50.4 million UAE pledge. Reconstruction faced criticisms over design fidelity, particularly for Al-Nuri, where the winning Egyptian architects' proposal incorporated modern elements like open courtyards and contemporary aesthetics, prompting accusations of anachronism and deviation from the original Abbasid-Zengid style, with locals decrying it as resembling "luxury " rather than authentic Mosul heritage. Debates arose on labor composition, with surveys of 1,600 Mosul residents revealing strong preferences for Iraqi-led efforts using local workers and expertise over foreign contractors, though appreciation for funded rebuilding persisted amid concerns that external dominance undermined ownership and sustainability. Evaluations of UNESCO's efficacy highlight partial success in physical restoration and training over 5,000 locals, fostering inter-community , but reveal gaps in long-term impact: delays from design disputes, incomplete local buy-in, and questions on whether rebuilt sites authentically preserve causal historical continuity versus serving as politicized symbols, with residents prioritizing Iraqi autonomy in future phases. Independent assessments note the project's role in post-conflict stabilization but critique over-reliance on foreign funding for potentially inflating costs and diluting cultural specificity.

Controversies and criticisms

Atrocities under ISIS rule

During 's occupation of Mosul from June 2014 to July 2017, the group imposed a regime of extreme violence to enforce its interpretation of law, including systematic executions, public punishments, and enslavement. Residents faced death for offenses such as smoking, listening to music, or failing to attend prayers, with punishments carried out in public squares to instill fear. documented hundreds of executions of prison inmates in Mosul in October 2014 alone, often by or beheading, targeting perceived spies, deserters, and disloyal members. ISIS targeted religious minorities and perceived apostates with particular brutality, including the enslavement of thousands of Yazidi women and girls trafficked to Mosul as sex slaves after the August 2014 Sinjar massacre. A United Nations investigation confirmed ISIS's genocide against the Yazidis, involving the killing of approximately 5,000 men and boys and the enslavement of around 7,000 women and children, many of whom were auctioned in Mosul markets or held in "slave pens" for systematic rape and forced marriage. Survivor accounts describe Yazidi females being distributed among fighters in Mosul, subjected to repeated sexual violence as part of ISIS's doctrinal justification for slavery. Public punishments were routine, with floggings, amputations for , and stonings for performed openly to deter dissent, often involving local enforcers. Mass graves discovered post-liberation around Mosul contained remains of executed civilians, including Shia Muslims and other minorities deemed infidels. Some Sunni residents collaborated with ISIS, providing intelligence or participating in enforcement, which facilitated atrocities against non-conformists and contributed to the regime's entrenchment, though such complicity varied and later drew scrutiny in efforts.

Civilian casualties in the 2016-2017 liberation

The liberation of Mosul from ISIS control between October 2016 and July 2017 resulted in an estimated 9,000 to 11,000 civilian deaths, according to investigations by the drawing on , grave counts, and witness accounts, far exceeding official Iraqi and figures of several hundred. These casualties stemmed primarily from airstrikes, Iraqi barrages, and in densely populated areas, compounded by ISIS's widespread use of booby-trapped buildings and improvised explosive devices that detonated during advances or collapses. Household surveys conducted post-battle estimated around 2,521 violent deaths during the offensive phase alone, with many attributed to explosive weapons in urban settings where civilians were unable to flee. ISIS tactics significantly exacerbated civilian risks by deliberately embedding fighters within non-combatant populations, using an estimated 100,000 residents in western Mosul as human shields to deter strikes and complicate advances. Fighters prevented evacuations through checkpoints, sniper fire on escape routes, and forced relocations into zones, while rigging homes, tunnels, and vehicles with explosives that caused secondary blasts killing trapped families. This approach, documented in field reports, created a causal dynamic where precise targeting was inherently limited in a of over a million people reduced to block-by-block , with snipers and bombers posing immediate threats to advancing Iraqi forces. Criticisms of and Iraqi operations focused on the use of unguided munitions and heavy artillery in populated districts, with identifying over a dozen strikes that killed hundreds in single incidents, such as a March 2017 on a building housing displaced families, potentially constituting disproportionate attacks under . similarly reported spikes in civilian deaths from apparent strikes between February and June 2017, urging investigations into failures to verify targets amid warnings of trapped civilians. Defenses from military assessments emphasized the operational necessities: Iraqi troops faced high casualties from close-range ISIS resistance, necessitating , while precision-guided munitions were employed but limited by real-time intelligence gaps in fog-of-war conditions and ISIS's among civilians. The U.S.-led acknowledged select incidents, such as killing up to 200 in one event, and conducted reviews, though broader accountability remained contested given the insurgents' primary role in endangering non-combatants.

Reconstruction shortcomings and corruption allegations

Post-liberation reconstruction efforts in Mosul, funded largely through international mechanisms like the UN Development Programme's Funding Facility for Stabilization (FFS), have been hampered by widespread allegations of bribery and mismanagement. The FFS, supported by approximately $1.5 billion from donors since 2015 for stabilizing areas liberated from ISIS including Mosul and province, faced claims from whistleblowers that UNDP staff demanded bribes of up to 15% of contract values to secure bids for reconstruction projects. Funds were reportedly wasted on administrative overheads and inflated project claims, with donors criticized for inadequate tracking and reliance on UNDP's self-reported metrics that overstated benefits, such as crediting unrelated restorations in northern . Specific incidents highlight and diversion of public funds intended for Mosul's rebuilding. In 2019, Iraqi authorities accused former Nawfel Akoub of embezzling over $60 million in government funds, including $40 million allocated for post-ISIS reconstruction in Mosul and $10 million for aid to displaced persons, with only $6 million recovered after his flight following a deadly incident. Similarly, Nawful al-Sultan, another former , was removed in 2019 and faced U.S. sanctions in 2020 for misappropriating public and UN funds, actions that directly stalled infrastructure projects in the province. These practices contributed to uneven recovery, with eastern Mosul—less damaged during the 2017 battle—experiencing faster restoration of services like salaries and markets, while western areas remained largely in ruins by 2022 due to delayed allocations favoring connected elites. Local officials and residents reported as the primary barrier, with government efforts limited to basic paving while private initiatives and overseas NGOs handled critical repairs to , , and for the displaced. Critics, including Mosul city council members, have called for greater transparency and to shift from perpetual aid dependency to effective , arguing that entrenched beneficiaries of disorder perpetuate the cycle.

Education

Higher education institutions

The , established in April 1967, serves as Iraq's second-largest higher education institution after the , encompassing 23 colleges and research centers that historically emphasized (STEM) disciplines. Prior to the ISIS occupation beginning in , the university hosted colleges such as , Computer Sciences and , and , producing graduates in fields like physics, chemistry, , , and to support regional technical needs. Enrollment peaked at over 50,000 students, reflecting its central role in northern Iraq's academic landscape. Following ISIS's seizure of Mosul, the university was closed and suffered extensive damage, including the destruction of its central library in 2014, which described as one of the most devastating cultural losses during the conflict. Partial reopening occurred months after liberation in 2017, with initial focus on salvaging and curricula purged of ISIS-imposed . By June 2023, international efforts led by German development bank had completed 27 sub-projects, restoring facilities from the central library to labs and buildings, enabling broader resumption of operations. Recent enrollment has recovered to approximately 70,000 students, though this figure lags behind pre-war levels amid ongoing concerns. Post-liberation reopenings prioritized STEM programs to rebuild technical capacity, with colleges like and reinstating labs for mechanical, civil, and electrical disciplines. However, the university faces persistent challenges, including severe brain drain where thousands of faculty and researchers fled during rule and have not returned due to economic instability, inadequate funding, and residual insecurity—exacerbating Iraq's broader talent exodus. reforms have been implemented to eliminate extremist influences and align with international standards, but implementation remains uneven, hindering full academic recovery.

Primary and secondary schooling

During the ISIS occupation from 2014 to 2017, the group closed all 990 primary and secondary schools in Mosul, repurposing many as military headquarters and destroying libraries with thousands of books burned. The subsequent 2016-2017 battle for liberation inflicted further damage on over 1,000 school buildings across Nineveh Province, including Mosul, with structural collapses, , and rubble rendering most unusable. Enrollment rates collapsed to near zero during ISIS rule, as children faced risks, , or displacement, leaving an estimated 300,000 school-age youth out of by 2017. Post-liberation reconstruction, funded by Iraqi government, , and international donors, has rehabilitated hundreds of facilities, with 110 schools reopening in western Mosul by September 2017 to serve initial waves of returnees. By 2023, enrollment had rebounded significantly, with over 380,000 students attending primary and secondary classes in Mosul, approaching pre-2014 levels amid ongoing repairs to damaged . However, access disparities persist, particularly in conservative neighborhoods where early , family labor demands, and cultural norms prioritize boys' schooling, exacerbating gaps that widened under ISIS's restrictions on . Girls' secondary enrollment lags by up to 20-30% in affected areas, driven by socio-economic barriers and traditional stereotypes reinforced by post-conflict instability rather than formal policy. Curriculum reforms have sparked contention, as ISIS-era changes banned national , , , and while mandating religious and jihadist content. Post-2017 efforts by Iraq's Ministry of Education reinstated secular subjects, but debates continue over balancing —emphasized in conservative Sunni-majority districts—with objective of Mosul's multi-ethnic past, including Assyrian and Yazidi contributions, amid accusations of incomplete de-radicalization. Local educators report resistance from some communities to "Western-influenced" materials, slowing full implementation and perpetuating uneven educational quality.

Sports

Major clubs and facilities

Al-Mosul Sports Club (Al-Mosul SC), the primary professional football team in Mosul, competes in the , having qualified for the top tier in July 2025 after promotion from lower divisions. The club, historically a producer of national talents, faced severe disruptions during the Islamic State's occupation of Mosul from 2014 to 2017, when its home stadium was repurposed for executions and executions, earning it the moniker "stadium of horrors." Post-liberation battles in 2016-2017 inflicted extensive damage, including bullet-riddled structures, halting organized play until makeshift training resumed amid reconstruction efforts. Football overwhelmingly dominates Mosul's sports landscape, with community academies and tournaments serving as key outlets for youth engagement and trauma recovery following ISIS rule. Baladiyat Al-Mosul SC, another local team affiliated with municipal services, participates in the Iraqi First Division, contributing to grassroots development despite limited resources. These clubs play away or at temporary venues during repairs, underscoring soccer's role in fostering social cohesion in a city scarred by conflict. Key facilities include the Stadium, a multi-purpose venue primarily used for Al-Mosul SC matches, which underwent upgrades in 2025 such as turf replacement and seating expansions to meet league standards. The original 20,000-capacity stadium, severely degraded by war, remains largely unusable, prompting reliance on university grounds. New constructions, like the Central Stadium (initiated December 2024) and the forthcoming Mosul International Stadium (30,000 capacity), aim to revive infrastructure, with the latter designed to host professional games and training fields upon completion.

Media

Local print media in Mosul traces its origins to the late , with the weekly newspaper Al-Mosul first published in 1885, marking an early effort in regional journalism amid Ottoman rule. Contemporary local print outlets remain scarce, overshadowed by national state-affiliated publications like Al-Sabaah, issued by the Iraqi Media Network since 2003, which provides coverage of Mosul but operates under government oversight rather than as a purely local independent entity. Independent print ventures face structural challenges, including limited distribution infrastructure damaged during ISIS occupation from 2014 to 2017 and ongoing economic constraints in province, resulting in reliance on digital supplements for broader reach. Broadcast media, particularly radio, has proven more adaptable in Mosul's volatile environment. Al-Ghad FM, launched in March 2015 as the first independent station to transmit into ISIS-held Mosul via pirate frequencies, broadcast news, music, and talk shows that countered militant , including during the 2016-2017 liberation battle when it aired calls from trapped civilians. Post-liberation, Al-Ghad and other independent radios resumed full operations by mid-2018, focusing on local issues like reconstruction while navigating interference attempts by ISIS remnants. Local television stations, often extensions of national networks, have restarted transmissions but prioritize state narratives over investigative local reporting. Censorship in Mosul's media has evolved from overt control—where militants seized airwaves, destroyed libraries holding over 100,000 books in February 2015, and killed at least 13 journalists between 2014 and 2015—to subtler post-liberation pressures. Independent outlets practice to avoid reprisals from powerful Shiite militias integrated into the , which have targeted reporters probing corruption or abuses since 2017, exacerbating a where local journalists report no safe workspaces and frequent threats. , by contrast, benefits from official protection but often aligns with Baghdad's directives, limiting critical coverage of militia influence in .

Digital and independent journalism

Following the 2017 liberation of Mosul from ISIS control, digital platforms emerged as vital channels for independent reporting, enabling citizen journalists and locals to document reconstruction efforts amid limited access for traditional media. Blogs and online forums, such as those hosted on platforms like and independent sites, focused on grassroots updates about infrastructure rebuilding, heritage site restoration, and community resilience, often bypassing state-controlled narratives. For instance, social media campaigns mobilized donations for the University of Mosul's library, collecting over 16,000 books within a month through viral appeals that highlighted cultural revival post-conflict. These efforts underscored digital tools' role in fostering accountability, with users sharing evidence of stalled projects and corruption in aid distribution, though such activism frequently encountered algorithmic suppression or platform moderation influenced by international pressures. Exiled journalists from Mosul have exerted significant influence through online outlets, providing uncensored perspectives on ongoing challenges like militia dominance and uneven recovery. A prominent example is "Mosul Eye," an anonymous blog run by historian Omar Mohammed, who chronicled daily life under from within the city before fleeing; post-exile, it continued to shape global understanding of Mosul's social fabric via and translations, amassing international acclaim for its firsthand accounts. Similarly, diaspora networks leverage platforms like and Telegram to amplify exiled voices, coordinating with in-country activists on issues such as heritage preservation, where locals used to rally support for sites damaged by , countering official delays. However, this influence is tempered by , as contributors avoid naming powerful actors—such as Iran-backed militias—to evade reprisals, a pattern rooted in the killings of over a dozen journalists during rule and persistent post-liberation threats. Internet infrastructure in Mosul has seen incremental upgrades since the early 2020s, with Iraq's National Internet Project deploying fiber-optic networks to enhance connectivity, including targeted improvements in Nineveh Province that boosted downlink speeds by up to 22% through optimized designs reducing interference. By 2025, expanded submarine cable deals and FTTH initiatives aimed to position Iraq as a regional hub, lowering latency for online journalism. Yet, access remains uneven, with high costs and unreliable service persisting, exacerbating a digital divide that limits broader participation. Government monitoring and censorship have constrained digital independence, fostering widespread among Mosul-based online reporters. Iraqi authorities blocked multiple independent websites in 2023-2024, issuing long prison terms for content deemed critical of or sectarian leaders, while tools track dissent on platforms like . In Mosul, this manifests as preemptive avoidance of topics like militia in reconstruction contracts, driven by fears of arbitrary detention or extrajudicial violence, as documented in reports on post-ISIS media barriers. Platforms like Yalla Media, an independent Iraqi , navigate this by focusing on apolitical forums, but even these face IP-based throttling during protests. Such controls, often justified as counter-terrorism measures, disproportionately silence truth-seeking voices, compelling journalists to rely on exile-based proxies for unfiltered dissemination.

Notable people

Ancient and medieval figures

(r. 705–681 BC), king of the , chose as his capital and transformed it into a major urban center through extensive rebuilding projects, including palaces, gardens, and aqueducts. His inscriptions detail military campaigns and infrastructure developments that elevated Nineveh's status. Ashurbanipal (r. 669–631 BC), Sennacherib's grandson and the empire's last prominent ruler, governed from , where he amassed a vast library of cuneiform tablets preserving Mesopotamian knowledge on history, , and . Recent excavations have uncovered reliefs depicting him with deities, underscoring his cultural amid military expansions. In the medieval era, Mosul produced scholars like Kamal al-Din Abu al-Hasan Ali ibn Yusuf (d. 1242), a member of a prominent scholarly family who contributed to Islamic jurisprudence and while residing in the city. The region also fostered polymaths such as Isma'il al-Jazari (c. 1136–1206), an inventor and mechanical engineer who served Artuqid rulers and authored works on automata and water-raising devices during his time in northern , including Mosul.

Modern political and cultural contributors

Tariq Aziz, born Mikhail Yuhanna in 1936 near Mosul to a Chaldean Catholic family, rose through the ranks to become Iraq's from 1979 to 2003 and Foreign Minister from 1983 to 1991, serving as Saddam Hussein's international face during the Iran-Iraq War and . His diplomatic efforts included negotiations with Western powers, though his loyalty to the regime implicated him in policies of internal repression, leading to convictions by an Iraqi tribunal for related to the and political opponents; he died in prison in 2015 while serving multiple sentences. Osama al-Nujaifi, born in 1956 in Mosul to a prominent Sunni Arab family, emerged as a key post-2003 political figure, serving as Speaker of the Iraqi Council of Representatives from 2010 to 2014 and founding the Muttahidoon Alliance to represent Sunni interests amid sectarian tensions. His tenure focused on advocating for decentralized governance and minority rights in Nineveh Province, though critics accused him of ties to insurgent elements during the ISIS rise. In the cultural sphere, Munir Bashir, born in Mosul in , became a oud player and , mastering the system and elevating the instrument's global profile through recordings and performances across and the ; as Iraq's director of for 16 years, he integrated Arabic traditions into national education, founding schools for and . His innovations in technique influenced generations, earning him recognition as one of the 20th century's greatest Arab instrumentalists despite the Ba'athist context of his career. Post-ISIS, historian Omar Mohammed, a native of Mosul, anonymously chronicled the group's occupation from 2014 to 2017 via the Mosul Eye blog, providing firsthand accounts of atrocities, , and daily life that informed international reporting and preservation efforts. Now in , his work continues to support Mosul's social and cultural reconstruction, emphasizing community resilience against through documentation and advocacy. The ISIS era displaced numerous artists and musicians from Mosul, with diaspora communities preserving traditions like Assyrian chants and poetry abroad, contributing to global awareness of the city's heritage while local activists rebuild sites through initiatives blending traditional crafts with modern documentation.

References

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